Just Say NO to Stop Leak!
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- Опубліковано 7 сер 2024
- In this video we are discussing Engine and Coolant Stop Leak products that claim to fix leaks and engine problems by just pouring them into you oil or coolant. Thanks for watching. AdeptApe@yahoo.com on PayPal.
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If you use stop leak, Do not pass go. Do not collect $200. Go to jail.
Josh, years ago I had a civic that had a motor with a head gasket leak and I was not going to fix it. I put a bottle of "water glass" in it. It fixed the engine but eventually years later the motor failed. For fun, I took the motor apart, well I tried to. That "Water glass" went everywhere and welded stuff together. It was nuts!
I would say a $20 fix to save thousands in parts and labor rebuild that lasted years is worth it in your instance.
Damn. I mean if the car was not worth any real value I totally see it. But older civics take all of like 2 hours of work to replace a head gasket assuming its just a high mileage motor and that is the only problem. heh
Isn’t “water glass” what they killed engines with during Cash for Clunkers?
@@5roundsrapid263 yes
Finally, another technician who understands the importance of fixing the problem rather than using a stop leak!
Someone used a stop leak in the coolant system of a truck they had traded in, because the water pump was leaking. I recommended water pump and radiator to be replaced, along with a complete coolant flush to hopefully clear the system out.
You know a technician who uses stop leak.
You can’t be friends with those people.
I always figured if it could stop a leak it could also block or restrict a port or something so it wasn’t used on anything we cared about.
Over the years, I have seen all sorts of disasters relating to these types of products. Great video Josh.
My old F-150 developed a coolant leak on the intake manifold gasket. All the bolts and vacuum tubes are awfully rusty and I did not want to open that can of worms. I put a bottle of k-seal in the radiator and the intake hasn't leaked a drop since. That was two years ago.
If you're wondering, the heater still runs at full nuclear hot level. It didn't clog it at all.
I'd agree with pretty much everything you said Josh. Back when I was a Jaguar mechanic I worked on a lot of V12 Jaguars, which from the factory came with Barrs Leaks added to the cooling system. Not surprisingly, these engines were notorious for overheating, because they came from the factory with plugged radiators (mine that I personally owned neither leaked nor overheated after making sure the cooling system was actually in good shape).
I did end up using head gasket in a can on the 4.0L V8 in my Land Rover Discovery, since I'm swapping a C4.4 into it. That had a head gasket leak that was leaking coolant at a high enough rate I was having to top it off pretty regularly, the engine isn't very good and I didn't feel like fixing it properly. That's held up a lot better than I would've expected with no noticed ill effects (including overheating). But that falls into your category of similar to the $200 1990 Ford Ranger. Now I just need to get around to that C4.4 swap.
As a working mechanic in a former life (mostly on gassers), I added the recommended amount of genuine Stop Leak to a cooling system after a repair, flush and adding the proper fresh coolant mixture to the system...With that method I never had a problem...On occasion with my own vehicles, I've been known to add a can of black pepper with plain water to an empty cooling system in which cases the leak was stopped long enough to drive it to my chosen place of repair (usually my own driveway) thereby avoiding a towing bill...I have never used an oil leak stopper because I knew it just swelled all the seals, sometimes resulting in even more damage to repair...As always, the best method to stop a leak of any kind is finding the source, replacing or repairing the damaged part and refilling with the proper mixture of liquids...I find this channel a valuable source of information, some new and some consigned to the back rooms of my memory to be kicked loose and brought to the forefront again...Kudos to you, sir!...
About the best oil and lube forum on the internet is "Bob is the oil guy". When I was an SKF vibration guy doing oil analysis, this was a fun forum to read to find out about snake oils. At BITOG, you'll probably find the ingredients of the products mentioned on Adepts vid here.
GM used to have tablets that they wanted us to use in the cooling system to mask certain non head gasket leaks.
Factory installed in Cadillac Northstar and HT series engines to seal the liners to the block to keep coolant out of the oil. If a shop does a flush and does not replace the sealer coolant will show up in the oil.
Subaru did the same thing with the EJ series engines. They sold a cute little bottle called, “Coolant Conditioner”.
@@chrisleggett685 I remember reading the same thing about the northstar in an engine rebuilder magazine.
Seal tabs Worked in GM Dealer back then
Back in the early 90s we changed the radiator in the truck I was driving.(Ford Ltl with a 350 Cummins)It was a new radiator but not installed for about 2 years. Once installed and filled it had several leaks. Ran engine for about an hour hoping gaskets would swell and quit leaking. Didn't happen. My boss went to the next door neighbor, came back with a jar of black pepper. He poured about a half of a cup into the radiator. Approximately a minute later the leaks stopped. Hard to believe but it worked. I thought back then I wonder what else is getting plugged up but that truck ran several years without anything major with cooling system.
That destruction of the week was worrisome. I've got an isx15 cm2350 and use maybe a gallon of coolant a month, or every 11000ish miles.
I would get it diagnosed so you know where the coolant is going. It might be just a EGR cooler or a small hose somewhere.
Might want to look into that. Head gaskets on the X15 are known to fail, along with the EGR cooler.
Check your dipstick daily is my recommendation. On my Cummins N14, I just don't check the dipstick for level of the oil: I check it to make sure the oil still looks like oil and is not turning into mayonnaise.
Great video I use Rotella 15 40 in everything with Lucas oil treatment 07 Peterbilt with one million 400 plus c- 15 cat, 1 2002 F 350 power stroke 150k, 1 2001 F-250 5.4 Triton gas 409k, 1 90 f250 7.3 idi 183k
Aside from being an active component in cement sealer lo,l sodium silicate is also used in muffler cement. It works quite well and needs heat to react.... Also like 15~ish years ago when they were doing the "cash for clunkers" thing , sodium silicate is what they would pour into the motor oil to seize up the motors.
K
Yup we destroyed SO MANY cars with that stuff
We had a 3406E come through the shop one day. Customer complained of it over heating. Had a coolant leak the day before added 2 bottles of barz leak(think that what it was called). Found only 2gl of coolant came out of rad. But you could clearly see coolant in the surge tank still. Found radiator plugged heater core, oil cooler and pretty much any small diameter coolant hose was plugged. So needless to say he found out the hard way on when to use that. Now that being said I put a bottle of Lucas oil treatment in a old jeep I have. 260,000 uses about 3 qrtz of oil between oil changes. Since I started using the treatment it's just one quart now. I have no desire to rebuild engine just get the last bit of life out of the vehicle then to the wrecking yard when she gives up the go. Thank you for the video.
A few years ago a fellow told me his V8 Chevy was burning coolant. The full story was it was ran low on coolant and overheated badly, three years prior, someone told him it had a warped head or bad head gasket. Instead of repairing it he went to a parts store and got some super $30 sealer for the cooling system. He seemed upset it was burning antifreeze again. I'm like that stuff worked great! Three years! I think he wanted me to fix it on the cheap.
I live in Australia you have some good points but down under here when you're traveling around this great island some places are 200 to 2000ks from a good mechanics so to get there you need to use some of these products if a problem occurs
Thank you. I love video like this. Stop leaks need to stop
Great video. Some of those Stop-Leaks can get you through until you can repair things. Repair is the key. Also, plastic doesn't mean what most people think it does.
Thanks for putting ,( in my opinion), the best advice I've heard in a long time. My best advice: Just do it right in the first place.
Had a Explorer that was a beater with a heater with a bad headgasket. My mechanic wanted 4K to fix the gasket since this was the known bad engine (they had 2 different ones), and he was the one that suggested the head gasket in a bottle fix, specifying one particular one and only that one. Since all I wanted was to limp the engine along for a little while longer (rig was only worth about $500) I got the stuff and did the several hour long process it specified. 6 months later it was still holding, and I sold the Explorer (for a whopping $200) and told the buyer exactly what I had done and why. He wanted it for his kids first junker and was totally aware that it could go at any time. 1 year later I saw the rig still on the road, still not leaking and having none of the previous problems! That was the only time I would have ever thought about using the stuff, but it truly was an either/or situation for me at the time.
It’s like the fix a A/C cans. I try to preach it the auto stores. NO, must vacuum. My own mom (RIP) burnt her compressor up.
RIP your mom and her compressor.
I used successfully blue devil in a cracked head on a case skid steer 9 years ago and is still running today The really cool thing I could see the crack and as the product ran through the unit I watched it seal the crack so cool hey BUT I still wouldn't use it again it usually does more damage.
I've used Lucas power steering stop leak with good results, i put a little break fluid in older chevys and Ford's leaking power steering boxs with great results, I've used Black pepper In radiators , to make it in, but had some last a long time, never had a "rebuild in a bottle " work
I had a headgasket leak in a 79 Datsun years ago and bought a quart of sodium silicate from the drugstore for about 10 bucks. Drained water out put stuff in and filled rest with water, ran car for half hour and parked it over night completely drained. Next day filled it up with water and it was fine. Used that car for another 90,000 miles and it was still fixed when I sold it.
Valve cover gaskets should be relatively cheap to fix. Highly recommend saving the labour costs and DIY the job and use the saved $$$ to obtain the best quality seal for the application. BTW, do NOT forget to replace the valve cover bolt washers for designs that rely on the measured compression of elastomers to provide the appropriate clamp load.
Sodium silicate never gets hot enough to change state unless it is in an engine bearing. Mention Scotty again as a source of any knowledge and I'll walk. Not even kidding.
An old timer believed in Conklin stop leak. That is some fibrous nasty crap. His labor bill was intense. Would have replaced the radiator but I theorized I couldn't get it out of the block. Better to let the radiator catch what it was going to catch and replace it later if needed. That and hopefully the coolant filter would do it's job.
I wasn't using him as a source, just saying he mentioned it in one of his videos. He makes entertaining UA-cam videos, but I would not use him as a mechanic. He seems to love this Stop Leak stuff too. He probably "fixed" a lot of vehicles over the years with it.
@@AdeptApe LOL. I figured we were on the same page... Except I will not watch him. Every view helps and I will not contribute.
He is actually one of the only UA-camrs that I've ever seen actually advertise to watch his videos.
He’s also the only UA-camr that has faked his death for clickbait views more times than I’ve had birthdays.
Yeah, be very careful with cooling systems. Aluminum cores are very fine and usually end up clogged.
Sodium silicate is what we used when we were doing the most wasteful 'program' in the industry that I can think of AKA "Cash for clunkers." You drained the oil and dumped it in the crankcase. The liquid glass would promptly lock up the engine, usually trashing the mains or rod bearings. I purposely blew up some perfectly good vehicles when it was going on at the particular stealership I was working at during that time. It was more fun playing 'bumper cars' with them rather than trashing the engine. I don't think there is much of anything good about any stop leak type of products. Totally agree that they do more harm than good, especially on the coolant passages in something like an oil/ EGR cooler, or water jackets in the block and head. Thanks for the video Josh! Always enjoy your content. 👍😎
I did see it block off a coolant passage exactly as you said. It did fix the crack but plugged other passages
Only time I ever resorted to using an additive was Engine Restore in my old POS 1.8L Eclipse. If you’ve ever owned one of these things with high miles, they basically empty their oil pans out every other week from oil consumption. So bad I usually just put used oil in it that I had laying around. Surprisingly the Engine Restore does work over short periods of time. But it also got expensive since it needed a can a month.
I used engine restore and it made my rings stick
Sodium silicate was used in the "cash for clunkers" scheme to render a trade-in's engine useless. So yeah, you don't want that in your oil.
Yeah i used blue devil for a head gasket and it left what i can only describe as sand chunks in the cooling system
I totally agree with not using these products except as a temp fix to a worthless car. I did however try one some years ago on an Acura Legend that my daughter bought for $500 that has a mysterious collant loss. At one point though, this really let loose and steam was coming out the tailpipe and lost coolant very quickly. I did some research and ended purchasing a product called Steel Seal. It was about $100 10 years ago and was just a clear liquid. I followed the directions that just stated to put it in the cold engine and top it up with 50/50 coolant mix. So I started the engine and just let it sit idle for 45 minutes. After that time there was no more steam. I let it cool down, filled it with more coolant where it was driven for 2 years without ever adding coolant again. It was sold to California Air Resources Board as a retirement for old vehicles and neted $1,500 to be destroyed. I don't know what was in that stuff, but at least in that one instance, it did a fabulous job.
back in the days of the D9L with the "fuck up" (folded) core radiator... we had a fleet of them in landfill. We would but 9 cans of Motomaster powdered stop leak in each rad. Worked like a charm. Eventually we swapped to MRM rads
My Mentor Adept Ape
Knowledge Thanks for sharing it
Take care and have a great evening with all your family around you
PROFICIENT Adept Ape
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 Good Evening⏰️ 20.49pm
Hi Nick, you are one of the first comments on this video. Cheers and thanks for the kind words.
had a mate total his diesel motor in his ute with the radiator stop leak. Clogged things up and he had overheating problems constantly until he finally sold it on.
I had a 1971 240z and the side of the block had a crack in it. I used JB weld on the crack and it lasted about 2 years of very gentle driving. One other product that was bad was Barr's stop leak. It works,but it stops the block up and everything else.
Used Lucas stop leak on 3 vehicles and to my amazement it worked pretty well even with 3406e
blue devil headgasket sealer gave me 6 more months of work on my c15 sdp for 50 dollar a bottle it was well worth it
I'm not fond of mechanics in cans, but I had an early 1990's ford and transmission was giving me problems. Ford recommended an additive. I used it and it cleared up the problem and I ran it another 25-30,000 with no problems. I've used radiator stop leak until I could get it home for repair.I've not used any additives in anything newer than a 2000 model.
Yes gm had pellets for the Northstar engine coolant. Cummings recommends zerex coolant stop leak in there engines with leaking egr .
Buddy bought a honda, after some time, had to replace the headgasket. Changed head gasket, then no heat. Troubleshoot the coolant system and figured the heater core plugged with Bar's Leak. After 2 evenings [estimated 6 hours total] of flushing heater core with CLR, that cleaned up the core. Now the heat from the dash will nearly burn your hand. Bar's leak is garbage unless you are trying to hide a bad headgasket when selling your vehicle.
One time I tried cracking an egg into my radiator to stop a leak and it worked! Saw that on mythbusters many years ago!
That's an old one You can use horse sh Remember reading that about old times when cars first first came out. From a old wrencher
Here is an example of an OEM recommending this: Subaru constantly recommend their "Subaru SOA635071 OEM Cooling System Conditioner" for certain engines they produced. Part of Subaru service program WWP-99. Owner's were recommended to bring their car in for this free service. In fact, cars under warranty were often treated with this from the dealership without the customer's knowing what it actually was, or that it even happened. In reality, it was and still is Subaru covering their a$$ due to all of the head gasket failures they were going to experience. They claim the head sealing failure to be "normal behavior" due to expanding and contracting over time, which was complete BS.
"Subaru Cooling System Conditioner" is actually just relabeled Stop leak. One of the main products used is Holt's RadWeld. I've also heard K-Seal was another product used at times. They seemingly gave it a very vague name to avoid attention to the reality of the situation
That said, it worked for them and still does. This bandaid likely saved Subaru piles of $$$ in head-gasket repairs and minor cooling system leaks for cars that were under warranty. If you own a used Subaru from 2000 onward, there is a good chance your coolant already has RadWeld in it.
well made man!! stop leak is not the fix all!!!!
I use Copenhagen snuff for radiator stop leak. We put 2 cans in a terex scraper and ran it for 6 weeks without a leak. The good part is it floats so it doesn't settle in your cooling jackets
Copenhagen is some good stuff 😂
I've not used any such products in my engines for last several decades but back in the 1970's if you had a coolant leak or damaged radiator, we were told to put in ground pepper. I eventually learned that was a bad decision because once pepper expands, it likes to clog passage ports inside intake manifold, cylinder head, and block much in the same way carbon build-up from EGR would clog up passages in intake manifolds. Today when I experience excessive oil / coolant loss and there presents no external sources of leaking then it's off to the engine shop for diagnosis and repair. Cracked heads, damaged head gaskets, cracked blocks, cracked or porous liners, or broken rings contribute the most towards these issues although plugged up passage ports due to lack of maintenance also play into the equation. Part of owning a vehicle is the high cost to maintain and repair it.
Back when schools were reputable institutions by offering shop classes, auto-mechanics, auto-body and metal fabrication classes, I enrolled in auto-mechanics for 2 years of high-school as an elective. I had a teacher that said to stay away from STP and similar products if you had a good running engine. To him, STP stood for "STAY TOGETHER PLEASE". He told us they were last ditch products designed to get you home or to keep your vehicle running until you could find a replacement. Usually those products do more harm than good and a mechanic will be happy to charge you extra to remove that crap you put in your engine.
Same thing with tire slime. It’s a joke of a product and usually doesn’t work but people blindly trust advertising, or that one person that says it worked, and also think patches are too much of a hassle when there’s a miracle in a can. The real funny ones are the cans that also say they’ll inflate the tire as well so no need to pack a tire pump-better know the number of a tow truck then. Every tire shop I know will charge a lot to get rid of that slime, that is if they even want to work on it. Good ol tire patch strips and vulcanizing rubber usually last the lifetime of the tire. It will even patch a big gash out of the sidewall to get you into town.
I raced a 94 VW jetta in a "figure 8" race years ago. Smashed a hole in the radiator from another racer's bumper structure. This race was at the Fair Grounds by the way. Using needle nose pliers I pinched and rolled the damaged tubes-there was still quite a bit of seepage once we filled it back up with water (and only water because...fair grounds...horses etc.) We picked up an old-ish hand full of horse shit (meaning dry already) and crushed up and put in cooling system. After running at 2500 rpm ish for a few minutes we watched the tiny spouts of water sprays plug up and stop. So, that's a roadside cancel the tow truck maybe repair. I guess Copenhagen would probably work if horse shit wasn't available. Cheers!
I had another guy tell me horse poop would seal a radiator
I was dubious, but I found myself in a time/ funds situation. The sodium silicate does work with small leaks. It only is activated by high temperatures. I knew by testing it was a small head gasket leak. All is well 1 year later.
Radiator of my old Mercedes G-wagon (2.4l OM616 diesel) sprung a leak on a trip through Sweden many years ago, and I used the coolant stop leak thing on it (I think it was STP?).
It kind of worked. The leak would stop, then start again, then stop, and so on. But it wasn't constantly pissing coolant out the radiator core like before I added it. Got me through the trip and home, and I got a new radiator for it. Engine was running hotter than normally during that time though, and I did flush the coolant a few times before mounting the new rad.
The year after I ended up upgrading to a 3l OM617 engine (slightly less underpowered, but still no powerhouse), and sold the old engine to a friend of mine. He had no cooling related issues with it, so I guess it didn't cause any permanent damage.
Definitely not a permanent fix though.
I've used the blue devil stop leak quite a few times n it I would say it works 25% of the time. Other times it slows the leak slightly or it just doesn't do anything. For like 20 bucks it's worth a shot. Repairs on those 25% stay that way even after you change the oil
I had a 97 vw golf once and a friend told me to use stop leak to help slow a coolant leak. I was young and stupid… I will say it worked. Stopped the leak, along with water pump and engine! Lol lesson learned!
Old rope main seal in 1953 Ford steady leak
Oil change and put 1pint of ATF in it and after a couple warm up cycles leak is gone next oil change back to oil only. ATF causes the old rope seals to expand. But only buys you time. But I’ve never used these products you’re talking about.
So I used this in the coolant of a 3406e 2ws with a blowen liner oring and it worked for 8 months now we're in the process of doing a inframe and its all over in there it looks like metal dust. We only put 3000miles a year on it so I'd say it was worth the extra time we got out of it
Subaru is sealing sealers for coolant and oil for know head gasket problems :))) great fix by subaru
Not letting diesel warm up and taking off at 40 psi oil pressure is bad on the front cover seal. Cummins isx is known for this.
Engine operates all day long above 40psi...
Well now, is it in a 1970’s “Hemi-Cude”..? Or one of these pieces of junk that Chrysler is currently putting out..? By all means save grandpa’s 1970’s unit., no matter it’s shape, and just haul the current stuff to the dump…
Great video sir,
Thank you.
Manufacturers used to make things to last as long as they can, today I swear it's only to last 2 years
Gm and Subaru both offer a cooling system sealer.
I had a Northstar V8 that had become overheated before and I discovered “water glass” product. My theory was that the vehicle was consuming coolant and there is no external leaks. I went through an performed water bottle test and noticed crankcase gas entering the cooling system. The only thing about this product is that IT IS NOT compatible with engine coolant. So for that reason, I would advise you use distilled water to prevent adding lots of minerals. Needless to say this soultions worked for about 2 years until a wreck took out the car.
like the bottles all say what amount to use. some will over do it and pour way to much in. sometimes they are a good idea sometimes not
Good video, all that stuff is questionable at best, think the fix a flat belongs in the same category.
I have used fix a flat or the green slime a couple times just to get me to the tire shop, I was even kind enough to let them know before the even took the wheel off my truck so someone didn’t get a fix a flat shower.
I have seen examples of heads that all available originals have shallow cracks, ex 216 & 235 stove bolt 6s intake runner to water jacket cracks, and have no affordable aftermarket support. These specific instances the glass resin type, poured only in the trouble runners and coolant passages, is the standard repair. Source: Hagerty Chevrolet "Stove Bolt" six rebuild.
A better repair would be pinning the crack
@Isaak Welch I believe, although I am not certain, that the cracks in that specific example are commonly in areas inaccessible to that type of repair. Drilling and pinning would, in my opinion, be a far better option should accessibility allow it. I am of the opinion that any "liquid repair" is almost always in no way a repair. However, this source instance, the machine shop recommended said method as the only viable and economical solution (for that application).
They have their uses I was stuck in the middle of the outback a roo took out the radiator if I hadn't had stop leak I would be dead the product sealed enough to get to help
It will construct a web across the water passages in the heads.
I have a question what's the best thing for rust removal in the cooling system. I've seen it some at work and on our farm due to lack of maintenance in the cooling system is there anything you see work/ help during a coolant flush
Love the hat, did you get it from Cat store or your company?
I just finnished an inframe on a dt 466 that looked like that. It was unfourtionantly run with oil like that untill the heui pump crapped out
a 1990 ford ranger in running condition is worth thousands! man i love living in the rust belt without saftey inspections.
Like wise on stop leaks in HEUI systems if you have an engine with VVT it doesn't need to be in there.
The last time I used some stop leak crap was 8-10 years ago had an old 3208 cat with a leak and all I wanted was 1 more winter plowing season out of it. I poured the shit in and damn it worked and I got 2 more seasons out of it and then it went to the boneyard. That’s the only time I would use that shit.
I will say liner orings went to leaking on my 3406c I used bars stop leak it got me by untill I rebuilt the engine. NO NOT permanent fix but a way to get home
Tried stopleak on an Intrepid with head gasket problems. Trouble followed.
I just heard this a about a month ago. If you have a leaking seal put about a half teaspoon of brake fluid in the offending component. The brake fluid will expand the elastomer in the seal. Do they work, probably for a little while but the long-term fix is to replace the worn out part.
I used to know a guy who, over time, bought a ton of F250 Ford with 6.0 at auction with blown head gaskets. He bought some stuff to run thru them that was about $100 a bottle and their kicker was that if it didn't fix it they would pay for the repair. It did work-for how long? Who knows. I run screaming from 6.0s.
Had a company truck I was driving started using coolant. Called the shop talked to 2nd in charge he said to put 3 bottles of barzleak in the truck and get it back to the shop. I got it back to them and the big boss was there I told him what I was told to do and he cursed and swore at me, the only time I ever saw him do that. It took them a week and half taking it apart and flushing that garbage out of the system truck had a split in the heater core. I got chewed out cause all I would’ve had to do was shut the valves it was summer anyway. But I won’t put that junk in a truck again!
HA, very good Josh.
All they are is a seal sweller. If you use them make sure not to keep them in your engine for too long and change your fluid after a few hours. Other wise your seals will swell up way too far and blow out.
KC seal about 80% effective on normal gasoline engines with small leaks.
Not diesel or if head gasket fire ring is blown through.
I have fixed so many older cars lasted years.
Worth a try on older gas cars trucks .
GM even made one for Cadillac aluminum engines.
Don't use the old one that looks like rabbit dropping s clog heater core .
What I have learnt over the year's from a young boy aged 5 to me being aged 51 that these stop leak products have a chemical reaction with the oil or coolent.
This chemical reaction triggers a chemical change when the mixture of both your oil and stop leak hit the cooler air outside of the leak, like your oil pan or your rocker/valve cover. The same with the coolent and the stop leak, it is triggered when hitting the cooler air outside of the leak.
But it is not a permanent fix, it is designed to be used to get you to the nearest garage, safe zone to be collected or home.
So that the leak can be resolved correctly and if so replace the damaged part or part's, but the system will need to be flushed out thoroughly to make sure that all of the quick fix stop leak product or products are removed.
It is like the old driver's fix for a leaky radiator put a egg in your radiator and it will seal the pinhole up in the radiator.
Some say it works but most say it blocks up small port's and pipe lines.
But you still needed to flush the system out and check everything for fluidity.
I would not use any product that says it can stop leaks permanently, because they don't.
I know this from friends and family members using these products and causing more damage to the engine. Because they bought into the gimmick of it fixing the problem permanently.
Loving the video's and the content, keep fixing and teaching what to look out for when running a diesel vehicle. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Wasn't Sodium Silicate what they used to destroy engines during Cash for Clunkers?
Whats your opinion on stiction eliminator?
I call all those additives snake oil lol I personally don’t use them
I had a (for me) invisible hairline crack in the radiator, tried the "premium" leak-stop, didn't help, I guess didn't help at all. The new radiator surely will last the next 24 Years.
In the 60's, oil burning cars got an oil change with 90W oil used to bring the oil pressure up & stop the oil burning past the valve guides & rings. Works for about 100 miles & vehicle was purchased "AS IS" & criminal wasn't responsible for repair.
they used silicates in the cash for clunkers fiasco to lock up the motors. "LIQIUD GLASS"
The few ACTUAL mechanics I watch, general auto, transmission and diesel mechanic tells everyone watching NOT to use those products and gives reasons and proof not to. Luckily I've never had a reason to use any of these products for an emergency use.
I remember the old days of the really shady used car dealers that would “fix” noisy valves by putting STP in to the oil and quiet the valves for a couple hundred miles if that. I can see using these in a very tight pinch like you’re in the middle of nowhere and have to get to the closest repair facility. That shop would have to attempt to flush everything out as soon as possible but that is about the only time I would personally use these products.
I've seen stop leak products work and not (especially coolant stop leaks) certainly not recommended. Speaking of Scotty Kilmer, he is an advocate of AT205 reseal for transmissions and engine oil.
At 205 polymer works pretty good
Stop leak.... should come with a warning USE ONLY WHEN... your motor is already blown up and smoking and/or spewing fluids everywhere and on the verge of starting on fire...and you need to make it 5-10 more miles to the junk yard to save the tow truck expense! Lol. Maybe I'll keep a can of "fix a flat" but even then.... ehhhhh.
The only additive that should ever be used is something to thicken oil (like lucas) for soemthing that may burn a lot of a stiction eliminator in a HEUI system
I may use additives like the Lucas stabilizer but anything that claims to be a mechanic in a $12 bottle is selling snake oil and in rare cases it may stop a leak but the other precision engineered components such as water pumps main seals and so on need proper lubrication and so does oil stop leak have the same lubricating properties as oil? No it doesn't and even for vehicles you're gonna scrap I don't recommend because someone else who is a 1990's Ford ranger fan may see a new ranger in the junk yard with a rare series of motor and is willing to pay top dollar for and cone to find out the motor is seized because stop leak sealed the valves shut or something
Yeah I’ve tried some with my older junk cars just to try it, never worked anyways. I’d never use it in my diesel truck or anything that uses oil in the injectors, that sounds terrible 😂
I’d use dye before any of that crap
They’re all 100% effective or 100% of your money back guaranteed! Either way most people don’t bother to get there money back because it’s a headache.
Key phrase “unintended consequences “
😎Thanks AdeptApe👍
(bonus utterance “small orifice”😁)
Stop leak should only be used as a last resort temporary fix to get you until you can have it fixed properly. Other than that, it should never be used as a first option to fix the problem
Can cause problems. Yeah, right! Bought a 1999 Jeep 4.0L with about 150K miles. Pretty clean and ran great. No apparent problems. Those engines are tough and very reliable. Heater core sprang a leak so I bypassed it for summer. Didn't want to fix it just then and didn't need it at the time. Anyhow, later that summer drove from West Virginia to Chicago to move my mother-in-law. Hooked to a 16 ft box trailer and moved her, then brought that trailer back to WV loaded. No problems at all. 21 MPG out empty, 15 back fully loaded. Came fall. Had to fix the heater. Well might as well flush the cooling system too just because. Well long story short, all was still good for about a month. Then I overheated on a 30 degree evening. Hmmmm.. No coolant in the radiator. No apparent leaks. Pulled the dipstick - found the coolant. Pulled and checked for head gasket and cracked head. No signs of either. New gasket and re-assemble. Same thing again...all the coolant was in the sump. Well turns out the person before me had cracked the block and filled it with something before selling it. Cost me an engine. When we pulled it there are 3 freeze plugs on the back. 2 were brand new and one looked like it had been in there for 150K miles.
21 my ass.