I had a 99 4runner, 4banger. 287k miles on it, manual 4wd. It was great. Even when it broke down on the road, it always drove itself away. I welded up the frame for three years straight, stopped registering it, used it to pull people out of the snow banks up here. Then one year I was lying underneath the truck, cutting away rusty frame getting ready to weld some more, and I just stopped, laying on my back, staring up into the void of the framerail. I laid there for an hour before I finally moved, fishing my phone out of my pocket. From the cold concrete I called the scrapyard to come pick it up that afternoon, and then I texted my wife. I laid still under the truck until the rollback came, my last intimate moments with that truck that took such good care of me. It was time. The rollback came, and the little 4runner started right up and drove herself up the ramp. I still miss her.
At one point at our lives, we had that one car or truck that was special to us. I have yet to get mine but, I'm sure I'll have stories of my own when I do.
I only found your channel the other day and even as a non mechanical person I admire your skills and patience. No way I would remain as calm trying to fit my hands into those small places and awkward angles of the dangles. Thank you
As a non-mechanical person I own a 1977 Chevy truck, which requires me mainly to fit my hands into very big spaces and usually pinch, tweak or tighten something with my fingers or at worst a screw driver. Sometimes I cut a hose with a knife. Old people understood the KISS principle (Keep It Simple, Stupid.) They did not, sadly, teach it to modern car engineers. Edit: because I can't afford to run a 6mpg vehicle every day I also own a more modern car. But I take that to the shop even for a stupid oil change because I cannot get it jacked up to save my life. Or fit my fingers into its anything.
@@wigit2216 here in The Netherlands its to expensive to drive a old Chevy.. I would like one, they are affordable and simple to maintain or make it drivable..
Here's an idea that was given to me years ago. When you are taking out screws, bolts, and nuts in places where you can't get your fingers, put a magnet on the screwdriver or the socket. If the magnet is strong enough, it should hold the screw, nut, or bolt until you get it out.
Just a few tips from an older, still working mechanic: 1) If plausible, check oil level before starting to prevent motor lockup during starting. Yeah, it happens, especially when customer has been adding oil like crazy. 2) Pull codes 1st, if present. Saves time most of the time. 3) Check all fluid levels before test drive, and note them to cover yourself. Fatal test drives are no fun. 4) If the plugs are sooted, you definitely are getting fuel. Plugs never lie. 5) Use a test light or oscilloscope or powerprobe to check for signal to ignition coil (depending on model/make) before replacing them.....just in case the computer was completely spot on its assumptions. It happens. 6) Something killed that coil. Was it heat/time or high secondary resistance? To identify such will net you more profit, and customers that don't come back next week angry. The shotgun approach with both coils may work for now, but those wires and plugs may kill the same coil again. Don't take any of this personally. You seem pretty good at your job, with a decent amount of experience. You setting the clock time, for example, is actually a nice useful trick. If the customer comes back with a new problem (like a hard start), you can look at the clock and see if it got reset by a weak battery or connection. Especially helpful in the winter.
Great info, vilefly. The internet is an amazing & magical tool for some of us older folks. For anyone wondering, i looked up ‘cause of ignition coil failure’ and got: Worn spark plugs are the #1 cause of ignition coil failures As spark plugs wear, their gap increases and that larger gap requires a much higher voltage to jump the larger gap. When an ignition coil is forced to produce peak voltage for extended periods, they overheat which degrades the insulation on the windings.
@@randomschmo5778 Nice to see people doing their homework. I also encourage our customers to do their research on their cars/codes. I like well-informed customers, even if some of them are cocky about it, because they actually want to know what is going on under the hood. I tend to lead them to understand why their car of today does not last like the car of yesteryear. Even if you are an experienced mechanic, you can still find solutions to very odd car problems on the internet that you didn't expect to.
@@ObservationofLimits You have much to learn, then. A worn plug has a wider gap. If that wider gap forces the coil to produce more voltage, then it stands a greater chance at reaching the breakdown voltage rating of its own insulation. Now add heat, time, and an ever-increasing gap. A bridged gap never destroys a coil, because it is a short circuit. High secondary resistance kills. I see it every day. Customer says: "These coils I keep buying are junk!". I show him the plugs or wires, and silence ensues.
So the frame rot is common? loved my 01 tundra but the frame was rotted so bad the rear end was only held together by leaf spring bolt. But the thing ran excellent for 289k miles.
I enjoy all your videos! I can't believe you stay positive and don't get to upset! If that was me I would be cussing like a drunken sailor! You my friend deserve every penny you make! You are a great Technician!
Just for clarification, Ray and not a mechanic. He is a technician. Back in the good old days, if you had a roll of duct tape, a screwdriver, and an empty beer can, you could get going again. Based on lots of experience.
@@davidbeanz3906 You are correct! I did change that in my original comment. I did not mean any thing bad. I am sure he went to school and got all his degrees! I am very impressed how good of a Technician he is! I would definitely want Ray to work on any of my vehicles If I lived in his area!
I wish instead of crushing cars like this that they would send them to the rust belt states to be rebuilt. People up here in Ontario would pay a price premium for that body shell.
It's true. I'm in Arizona and my next-door neighbor sold his '96 Bronco to a buyer in Toronto at a premium price AND paid to have it shipped. The engine had nearly 300K miles and had recently developed a head-gasket leak, the interior was really rough, the paint was fading, but the body and frame were near perfect.
@@BrianW211Yeah, here they are dripping rust. I have a 2003 Dodge Durango with 230K+ miles that is in excellent mechanical shape but the body is just about shot. I might get another winter out of it.
Yup. The tin worm kills cars up North. Down South cars seem to end up victims of Florida Man. Right now I've got a 1989 Ford probe that needs brake lines and a filler neck...everything else works....the interior is actually clean. Can't be repaired, underside is nothing but crust. I'm surprised it didn't break in half.
@@BrianW211 The older Bronco's had 2 very desirable things, a body style many loved and 4WD which is huge in snowy areas. This Toyota will need it's tranny rebuilt and engine work to fix the massive oil leaks. At 281,000 miles might as well just rebuild the engine as well, for that kind of $$ you could catch a flight to FL or AZ and buy something that's older but able to be driven back home without needing to arrange for those extensive repairs.
One thing that a lot of techs miss: On older cars with distributors, you never saw coil failures. That is because with a worn or fouled plug, the coil discharges on the next plug in the firing order. With distributorless ignition, if the plugs are excessively worn or fouled, the coil steps up the voltage until it overheats and fails. Whenever I replace coils, I also replace the plugs. It prevents a comeback.
Axtually, it's because in new coil-on-plug if the spark doesn't jump, the coil iron stays near saturation and the next pulse pushes it over into deep saturation, where it draws like 5 times the current and soon burns up. The old shared coils got a chance to de-flux on the next firing so they didn't burn up so much.
Distributor Ign coils died too. Don't kid yourself. I did lots of FM impulse mags. They had a strap inside them for a bleed when your wires cap/ rotor wires or plugs died so the spark could jump. The tricky part is to diagnose a mag coil for short to ground.
Dude, you got me binge watching! I really appreciate your abilities. Your narration and choice of words are very entertaining. Great camera angles. Like that you do not perform too much off camera like a produced tv show.. Right on.. Keep em coming
I think that in that type of case analysis, the first thing is to connect the diagnostic tester. So you have a way or first idea where to begin. If not done at first, I think we can check everything and every directions. Otherwise, it is a channel that deserve more sub's, informative, real (no preparation). Thanks for all your work!
Ray, as usual, awesome video, thank you. I like the explanations of what you think is wrong, how you are taking it apart, why you are checking whatever it is, and even the explanations of the smoke machine. Very informative. I wish I had someone like you in Tokyo who was just a knowledgable about Mexican built VW bugs. Thanks again and Happy New Year to you (I'm watching this during New Year's holidays.
With basic maintenance. There are certain vehicles that will go forever with the proper maintenance...most Toyotas, Ford Panther platform, Honda engines will go forever but the bodies will eventually peel apart, brick Volvos, a few more.
A bad ignition coil can generate enough electronic noise that it "swamps out" the signal from the cam sensor. Since the engine ignores the cam sensor below 400 RPM it will start, but after it starts you'll lose the injectors when it switches over to using the cam sensor. (Below 400 RPM the injectors fire in pairs off the crank sensor, but above 400 they fire individually off the cam sensor). Since the engine is a "wasted spark" engine the ignition never uses the cam sensor, thats why it would run on brake cleaner. Unfortunately on most vehicles the only way to diagnose this issue is through the process of elimination. The only "hint" I've noticed is that BEFORE the engine starts dying , the cruise control starts acting weird since the electronic noise from the faulty coil starts interfering with its ability to measure engine RPM....So always ask the customer if the cruise control works.
@@RainmanRaysRepairs 31:12 smh he going to get the driver of that car killed he forgot to put the clap back on the hose to the brake booster and what about the starter bolt ?
Ray, you’re too hard on yourself. You’re a great mechanic, you draw a lot of people due to your personality. You don’t to to justify that you just installed o-rings on fittings because people didn’t see it. People can be jerks. It makes them feel better about themselves. Just be yourself, you’re very confident, don’t fall into the traps. That’s what jerks want. They mess with peoples minds. They’re more jealous about you and your Integriety. Keep up the good work. Let your personality shine. God bless you. Nelson
I like how you have gotten more vocal in your commentary as your channel has aged. I love seeing your old stuff and the things that have stayed the same, but you have definitely improved your videos with your vocal thoughts and chatter as you are working on it. I love hearing your thought process as you work on things.
@@howy5799 air first thing i would check, make sure its getting air, then check fuel pressure, then test the coil(s), if all that were ok, pop the cover and check the valves. and too be honest i think the valve cover its leaking on that one, there's oil on the front and the back, i bet they never done a tranny service and the tranny running dry
@@levisvarela3735 the chances of an air leak or air being the problem in anyway is a lot less than ignition system or fuel system failure in my opinion, this is completely dependent on the symptoms of course but yeah in a general misfire kinda issue it would be ignition or fuel i would chase first in my opinion
I have been watching your videos since the start of 2022. As a shade-tree mechanic in the late 80's then moving on to a 2 stroke technician in the 90's I am fascinated by watching you work. This video had me missing all the doo-dee-doos and clicks which are more often found in your later videos. I noted that you did not use power tools on this repair, and suspect that either you didn't have them yet or chose not to use. them. As there was that one loose bolt you went to town on with just a humble hand ratchet. That being said while I will not be working on cars in my future watching a professional who knows how to do a job is soothing to watch and listen. I note that you seem to have taken on the role of mentor for your viewers, that is cool. Teaching by example is the best method. While I won't be diagnosing no or hard start issues in any new vehicles I can say that thru your vids you have given me a great flow chart of where to start. Further by listening to your diagnostics you will inevitably be helping my local shop's technician with my ability to give them as much information as I am able to based upon how you would liked to have the "customer states" portion of the work order be less terse and more descriptive. So Doo-de-doo to you and keep up your intriguing videos.
Solenoid worked. There was probably just corrosion and gunk on the part of the motor where the brushes make contact. A few passes with super fine grit sand paper will make it good as new. May not be the problem every time, but still a good little trick for a tight budget.
Let's see. Brake dash light comes on when the trans is trying to shift from 1st to second. What might be common between the trans and brakes? Vacuum to the trans modulator and brake booster. The brakes were mushy so that lends credence. I'm not familiar with that trans but if there is a vacuum modulator governing shift points that was your issue. Cheap fix and no scrapping the car.
Those starter motors are the same as the ones used of the Land Rover TD5s. It's usually the solenoid that plays up and the motor remains fine. I've used the £7.00 rebuild kit on lots of them and saved to owners literally hundreds of UK pounds.
land rover.. i shiver.. still crap & ford made them craper.. td5 is the best engine,,in the wrong vehicle.. they are built/designed correct, but just not reliable or strong enough.. 1975 f250 highboy. 351c. 5sp. dana diffs.. hear that,,dana diffs.. zf gearbox, cleveland, 205 transfer. all, last forever..ausie..
That's my engine! Mine also leaks, but not this bad. Mine is mainly from the timing chain cover gasket. I looked into replacing it. Hahahahaha! I paid less for the truck than the labor for replacing the timing chain.
@Foreverchanger I'm sloooow. I translate hours into days on labor estimates for DIY, so when I see something that takes a mechanic a day, which can be addressed by simply adding oil every thousand miles or so, I'm going to pass.
It's a 23yr old vehicle with 281,000 miles on it, exactly what kind of "maintenance" was skipped?. It even took Ray, a very good mechanic, awhile to track down those bad coils. Truck's just worn out at this point.
@@creamwobbly But eventually father time wins out, even with the best maintenance. One could, if talented enough and with the proper tools, pull and rebuild the engine. Even for a Toyota you need regular oil changes to get 281,000 out of it, that's a trip to the moon!.
@Barry Ariello those 4-runners were fucking workhorses if you took care of them. My buddy had almost 400k miles before his brother decided to roll it derping around a construction site. A lot of Toyotas from that late-80s through 90s were fuckin bulletproof. My 90 Corolla had almost 300k with no issue until my buddy hit the shifter (there was no N to R lock back then you could go straight down R N D and back up without it locking) while trying to dig something out of the back seat. Wasn’t worth fixing.
A little trick I know when dealing with a going out starter if you are trying to get it to start you want to turn the key all the way off before you try turning it again because when it goes from the lowest electrical draw to full current hitting the starter it has a better chance of starting, retry without turning it all the way off and u have less power jumping into the starter when u turn from ACC because the current is flowing to all your accessories, turning from off gives u a better rush of power literally, obviously fixing it works too 😀
I gotta hand it to this gentleman, when he takes on a vehicle, he tackles any challenge a vehicle throws at him head on. I also like how he tries his damnedest to figure out what's wrong with the vehicle. He also tries to avoid selling the "parts cannon" to customers, unlike basically every shop in the country.
Ray, Fantastic Channel. I worked as a mechanic P.T. while going to college mid '70's then F.T. in late '70's. Nothing worse than having to work on a HOT car, in the summer. I;m in upstate N.Y.
Damn, I would pay top dollar for that 4runner. Put it on long travel stilts, thick 35s and a roof camper, maybe even cummins swap it. Dream car right there.
BS! He's taking the big piss! The fault tester told him it was a bad coil; Which is also %90 of the problem with these Toyota's...The oil ls most likely just a bad valve cover gasket...(Also, a know issue with these engines.) I knew it was a bad coil without even watching that far( And, no. I'm not a mechanic...) I guess the blame rests on the owner knowing nothing about his truck, or how to not wreck the transmission...Hint for anyone that owns a late model Toyota truck: You will need a starter, a spare ignition coil, and a valve cover gasket when you own either the 4 banger, or 6...Also, some undercoating of bar/chain oil to undercoat the frame/chasis...
What a blessing to live in Australia. No wretched ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding while trying to work on the car. Who the hell thought a door open warning dinger was a good idea.?
It feels funny watching this video while changing the starter on my 2001 Tacoma 3.4 . That was a pain . It did last for 215k miles before it went out .
I think the worst starter ever was on a ~2007 Ford Focus (the sportier model) Your options are disassemble the entire upper half of the engine and everything in that area, the FSM - remove exhaust sections (lol oookay), or do it 100% blind by feel while engaging in contortionist exhibitions.
Second of your videos i've watched so far and have to say that you're doing a great job. The camera is one of the trickiest things to deal with, especially on this concept being editing takes lead Great job. Keep it going
He got over 261,000 miles on that baby. Probably did'nt do enough maintenance on it but who knows? But look at the bright side; it goes down with excellent ingnition coils! Another nice video. Thanks Ray and hope your new shop is going good! Best to you!!!
Came to the comments to see if I was the only one who noticed that. When you get in a hurry and worry about other things than your job, you forget shit. Just like he did.
Digit the dancing queen. :) I worked for Mercedes 30 years ago as a line tech. Sometimes I miss it, most times I dont. I think what I miss most is the camaraderie, but I suspect it has changed a lot with modern sensitivities. After 10 years I went back to school and changed careers.
Most Toyota starter motors have replaceable contacts, You can get the kits a lot cheaper than buying a whole starter motor. I replaced the contacts in my wife's 97 Camry and my brother's 93 Toyota pickup. The symptoms were about the same- sometimes the starter catches and sometimes it just clicks. Great video.
Those starters are mostly bulletproof Have seen very few that actually were windings or armature or busing problems, what you had wad bad contacts in the solenoid. We replaced the contacts and the contact plate. We used to buy them in bulk like 50 of each contact and 50 plates at a time. Being a commissioned tech i always liked to get paid for rebuilding the solenoid then just replacing the starter. Saved the customer money because they didn't have to buy a starter and made more labor $$ as that's what I was paid from. I bet out of a couple hundred repairs of these types of starters I only saw 2-3 that were actually bad in the starter motor and not the solenoid.
Ive rebuilt a starter in my old 98....took 30 min and cost 3 bucks? they sell those little contact kits...better than a junk rebuild that wont last 4 months...
Based on all that sludge on the front it looks like crank seal was never changed when they had the timing belt(s) replaced. Haven't finished video yet but just a guess from what it looked like
There still is a fuel problem. The fuel pressure quickly bleeds down when it stalls or key off. Either a bad fuel pressure regulator, check valve on the fuel pump side or leaking fuel injector(s).
you may be right, but it's an old car with the transmission seized, so spending more money on a problem that causes no problems yet..... I don't think so
Ray, I totally enjoy your videos. I am so amazed at how people treat a very expensive piece of machinery like trash. I grew up in the auto business. My dad was a Firestone tire distributor. There was a small parts store and a small shop where tires were mounted etc. However I was taught how to take care of an automobile. I currently own a 2013 Mustang Convertible (purchased pre-owned) a 2015 Subaru Outback. and a 2021 Subaru Ascent. I do maintenance on my vehicles that probably very few do. I change the engine oil every 3 months, regardless of mileage (usually 200 miles or less. I have had the transmission fluid changed on both the Outback and Mustang (both very low mileage), the transfer case fluid and the differential fluid changed in the Outback, and recently the differential fluid in the Mustang. Cooling system services have been done, brake systems are flushed every 2 years. Currently I am in the process of having all the cooling system hose changed. My idea is to avoid break downs.
On the Subarus, full synthetic oil is highly recommended (I have a 2017 Outback and a 2020 Legacy), so it really shouldn't be necessary to replace engine oil every 3 months (even dealer recommends every 6). If that is how you like doing, then excellent, but if you ever want to save a few dollars and some raw materials, I think you'd be fine.
@@paulsmith9198 I am not interested in saving a little money. I am more interested in having non-contaminated oil in the engine. I drive such little mileage that moisture can build up, so I do extra maintenance to avoid problems. If I was not retired, and there was no pandemic, might change the oil less frequently as the oil would be circulated through the engine better. You never mentioned the other services I have performed. I grew up in the auto business and maintenance was drummed into me, and when I learned to fly, maintenance of the airplane was drummed into me. It is too bad that automobiles do not have Hobbs meters.
Japanese cars and trucks use to be the best. Back in the mid 80s I went from Glendale CA to NYC on a 1969 1.6 cc Datsun station wagon, customized like a sleeper. It took me 3 days with a friend stopping on every state lane to take s picture. My engine never overhead or had any issues. Those days and engines were just some of the best. Kind regards from BC.
@@mandc20022 Same! I parted ways with mine for $600. It was a great car, ran amazing, had maintenance records for even lightbulbs, and never wrecked. I loved that lil car. My little neice nicknamed it Tiny Car too XD
You called it a diagnostics starter. Why? I assumed the customer really needed it and that you left it in the car and sold it to the customer. Why was it called diagnostic? Also, I am in awe at your ability to look at a nut and determine its size. That is a skill that I do not possess. Mark in Springfield, MO
Good choice on owners decision. My 92 Chevy pickup has the ubiquitous 700R4 and I had mine rebuilt. (I bought it for secondary use on the ranch). It's a 350, which runs excellent, and now drives very nice. I bought it knowing it needed the trans worked on. Where I live in Kentucky, the cost was $900. The labor was $300. I'm happy 😁 I think vehicles are kinda like a house, in respect to keeping things in decent repair. There's always something to do, and don't abuse the thing. I've got 250, 000 + miles on it 👍
In case you ever wondered what "shop supplies" are when you see it on the bill: blowing through multiple cans of brake clean certainly qualifies... It seems oddly satisfying just blazing away with the brake clean...
They want the massive oil leak that's clearly been completely uncontained for who even knows how many months before this service diagnosed later?? Nothing left to diagnose except for the wiring issue in the customer's brain that's causing a short circuit, causing him to state that "The vehicle doesn't stay running," when in fact, the vehicle wouldn't even run to begin with! I'm just baffled how people are so reliant on their vehicles for their day to day life but they never do any maintenance on them and just wait for them to fall apart and almost kill them before they realize that there's a reason that you're supposed to repair your vehicle...
Considering trying to get out of parts and into the garage as a tech. I havnt done it so far because I wasnt confident in my skills but these videos are making me realize im more skilled than the average joe
Take your average joe and think about how smart he is, then consider that at least half the people you meet are dumber than that. A lot of people are more qualified than they think, its just easier to shuffle average joes around because they don't question things near as often.
Oil leaks that large I don’t use brake cleaner. Just a waste. I use purple power 50/50 mix and soak the entire chassis. Let it sit 5 mins and pressure wash off. Brake cleaner is a hell of a lot more expensive than purple power
@@eaglerider1826 Since I live in an apt. all I do is mix about 1 oz dawn in a small, hand-held spray bottle of water. (like an empty windex bottle) It is handy because you can set it on "spray" to cover areas you can reach close to and "stream" to reach areas you can't. (One of those pump up garden sprayers would work well too but I don't have one here) I let it sit on a warm (not hot) engine for about 10 minutes or so (it turns the oil a coffee color as it emulsifies it) and rinse off with a garden hose. (garden sprayer would be good for rinsing too) It does not take much pressure to do this and, you really don't want to be spraying around inside the engine compartment with high pressure water from a pressure washer anyway. Components in there were designed to be protected from rain but not high pressure sprays. This can get water into alternator or accessory bearings, electrical connections or other sensitive components. It cleaned up everything nicely from my valve cover gasket leak on my Camry which leaked oil from the top of the motor on down everywhere. Now I can see that the new gasket is working fine. Not as fast as brake clean but much, much cheaper and safer.
@@OverlandOne Thank you for the quick reply . I have an extra spray bottle . I have a valve cover leak on my 3.4 and is not a job I want to try myself ( too much involved including pulling the complete intake ) . I have it scheduled to be replaced but want to safely clean the engine once it's done . I'll also wrap the alternator in plastic as the last car I tried this on with brake cleaner I got some in the alternator and had to replace it .
@@eaglerider1826 My old 1995 mercury villager 3.0 was like that. I replaced the front valve cover gasket in 25 minutes, just had to pull the distributor. The rear valve cover gasket required removing the upper and lower intake manifolds, the throttle body, fuel injector rails, etc. I watched 2 videos on YT on how to do it and both guys broke off bolts and had to pull the engine to be able to drill them out. I just let mine back one leak until I junked the car with 265,000 miles on it. (Dealer wanted like $2,000 to do the job) I did the timing belts and all other repairs on that vehicle with no problems but I was not about to try that job with everything as old as it was.
Right now as we speak Hondas and Toyotas were great cars in the 80s in the 90s when they were really putting the American car out of business nowadays they got just as much plastic they're just as junky is all the cars all the cars now or basically made the same they're not made in Japan anymore than made-in-the-usa okay so there's really no difference also Kia's are very good cars I own one that no problem with it I deliberately didn't buy a Toyota because I'm sick of hearing about them they don't last forever back then or now any car except a Chrysler will run a long time if you take care of it
28:05 I have no clue if it's a problem but the second ignition coil you replaced had a 2 & 3 on it and you replaced it with one that had 1 & 4 written on it. I can only assume the other ignition pack had a 1 & 4 and you replaced it with one with a 2 & 3.
I had a 99 4runner, 4banger. 287k miles on it, manual 4wd. It was great. Even when it broke down on the road, it always drove itself away. I welded up the frame for three years straight, stopped registering it, used it to pull people out of the snow banks up here. Then one year I was lying underneath the truck, cutting away rusty frame getting ready to weld some more, and I just stopped, laying on my back, staring up into the void of the framerail. I laid there for an hour before I finally moved, fishing my phone out of my pocket. From the cold concrete I called the scrapyard to come pick it up that afternoon, and then I texted my wife. I laid still under the truck until the rollback came, my last intimate moments with that truck that took such good care of me. It was time. The rollback came, and the little 4runner started right up and drove herself up the ramp.
I still miss her.
Write a love book
That's so sad... And somewhat wholesome in a bittersweet way. Thanks for sharing mate!
You both took care of each other. I'm sure the 4Runner appreciated all the effort you put into keeping her in shape.
At one point at our lives, we had that one car or truck that was special to us. I have yet to get mine but, I'm sure I'll have stories of my own when I do.
yo I have a 96 with the same stuff on it expect its not rusty at all and Im replacing the head on it 351,000 miles
There's so much oil under that engine, Chevron started drilling the hood.
There's so much oil the US has invaded!
And I thought that mine oil leak was bad (around 1qt evry 3-4k km)
When you open the hood it plays the theme song from The Beverly Hillbillies. lol
These comments are gold.... like black gold.
@@riseabove3082 black gold Texas tea
I only found your channel the other day and even as a non mechanical person I admire your skills and patience. No way I would remain as calm trying to fit my hands into those small places and awkward angles of the dangles. Thank you
As a non-mechanical person I own a 1977 Chevy truck, which requires me mainly to fit my hands into very big spaces and usually pinch, tweak or tighten something with my fingers or at worst a screw driver. Sometimes I cut a hose with a knife. Old people understood the KISS principle (Keep It Simple, Stupid.) They did not, sadly, teach it to modern car engineers. Edit: because I can't afford to run a 6mpg vehicle every day I also own a more modern car. But I take that to the shop even for a stupid oil change because I cannot get it jacked up to save my life. Or fit my fingers into its anything.
@@DaveC2729 no ones wants to buy a simple car anymore, and modern regulations and standards make in nearly impossible anyways.
@@wigit2216 here in The Netherlands its to expensive to drive a old Chevy.. I would like one, they are affordable and simple to maintain or make it drivable..
Here's an idea that was given to me years ago. When you are taking out screws, bolts, and nuts in places where you can't get your fingers, put a magnet on the screwdriver or the socket. If the magnet is strong enough, it should hold the screw, nut, or bolt until you get it out.
Just a few tips from an older, still working mechanic:
1) If plausible, check oil level before starting to prevent motor lockup during starting. Yeah, it happens, especially when customer has been adding oil like crazy.
2) Pull codes 1st, if present. Saves time most of the time.
3) Check all fluid levels before test drive, and note them to cover yourself. Fatal test drives are no fun.
4) If the plugs are sooted, you definitely are getting fuel. Plugs never lie.
5) Use a test light or oscilloscope or powerprobe to check for signal to ignition coil (depending on model/make) before replacing them.....just in case the computer was completely spot on its assumptions. It happens.
6) Something killed that coil. Was it heat/time or high secondary resistance? To identify such will net you more profit, and customers that don't come back next week angry. The shotgun approach with both coils may work for now, but those wires and plugs may kill the same coil again.
Don't take any of this personally. You seem pretty good at your job, with a decent amount of experience. You setting the clock time, for example, is actually a nice useful trick. If the customer comes back with a new problem (like a hard start), you can look at the clock and see if it got reset by a weak battery or connection. Especially helpful in the winter.
Great info, vilefly. The internet is an amazing & magical tool for some of us older folks. For anyone wondering, i looked up ‘cause of ignition coil failure’ and got:
Worn spark plugs are the #1 cause of ignition coil failures As spark plugs wear, their gap increases and that larger gap requires a much higher voltage to jump the larger gap. When an ignition coil is forced to produce peak voltage for extended periods, they overheat which degrades the insulation on the windings.
@@randomschmo5778 Nice to see people doing their homework. I also encourage our customers to do their research on their cars/codes. I like well-informed customers, even if some of them are cocky about it, because they actually want to know what is going on under the hood. I tend to lead them to understand why their car of today does not last like the car of yesteryear.
Even if you are an experienced mechanic, you can still find solutions to very odd car problems on the internet that you didn't expect to.
I second that
Never seen a wire or plug destroy a coil unless the plug bridged
@@ObservationofLimits You have much to learn, then. A worn plug has a wider gap. If that wider gap forces the coil to produce more voltage, then it stands a greater chance at reaching the breakdown voltage rating of its own insulation. Now add heat, time, and an ever-increasing gap. A bridged gap never destroys a coil, because it is a short circuit. High secondary resistance kills.
I see it every day.
Customer says: "These coils I keep buying are junk!". I show him the plugs or wires, and silence ensues.
When I worked for Toyota the oil leak on that 4 runner is exactly what they needed so the frame didn’t rot out lol
Preach it, German Jesus
Yeah I wish mine had an oil leak in the tailgate.
Built in rust protection...
Automatic chassis oiler
So the frame rot is common? loved my 01 tundra but the frame was rotted so bad the rear end was only held together by leaf spring bolt. But the thing ran excellent for 289k miles.
Im convinced his videos are just a mechanic master class in disguise
I enjoy all your videos! I can't believe you stay positive and don't get to upset! If that was me I would be cussing like a drunken sailor! You my friend deserve every penny you make! You are a great Technician!
HEY HEY!! Careful, some of us drunken sailors might be watching 🥴
@@NobodyOwesYouAnythin Sorry I am a factory worker and believe me I know all them big words Too! I meant no disrespect! Thank you for service!
Now that the coils are replaced and the starter works ... the transmission might be dead, probably making the owner discard.
Just for clarification, Ray and not a mechanic. He is a technician. Back in the good old days, if you had a roll of duct tape, a screwdriver, and an empty beer can, you could get going again. Based on lots of experience.
@@davidbeanz3906 You are correct! I did change that in my original comment. I did not mean any thing bad. I am sure he went to school and got all his degrees! I am very impressed how good of a Technician he is! I would definitely want Ray to work on any of my vehicles If I lived in his area!
I wish instead of crushing cars like this that they would send them to the rust belt states to be rebuilt. People up here in Ontario would pay a price premium for that body shell.
It's true. I'm in Arizona and my next-door neighbor sold his '96 Bronco to a buyer in Toronto at a premium price AND paid to have it shipped. The engine had nearly 300K miles and had recently developed a head-gasket leak, the interior was really rough, the paint was fading, but the body and frame were near perfect.
@@BrianW211Yeah, here they are dripping rust. I have a 2003 Dodge Durango with 230K+ miles that is in excellent mechanical shape but the body is just about shot. I might get another winter out of it.
Yup. The tin worm kills cars up North. Down South cars seem to end up victims of Florida Man. Right now I've got a 1989 Ford probe that needs brake lines and a filler neck...everything else works....the interior is actually clean. Can't be repaired, underside is nothing but crust. I'm surprised it didn't break in half.
Right
@@BrianW211 The older Bronco's had 2 very desirable things, a body style many loved and 4WD which is huge in snowy areas. This Toyota will need it's tranny rebuilt and engine work to fix the massive oil leaks. At 281,000 miles might as well just rebuild the engine as well, for that kind of $$ you could catch a flight to FL or AZ and buy something that's older but able to be driven back home without needing to arrange for those extensive repairs.
One thing that a lot of techs miss: On older cars with distributors, you never saw coil failures. That is because with a worn or fouled plug, the coil discharges on the next plug in the firing order. With distributorless ignition, if the plugs are excessively worn or fouled, the coil steps up the voltage until it overheats and fails. Whenever I replace coils, I also replace the plugs. It prevents a comeback.
Good to know. My '96 Tacoma has nearly the same engine, but it was the last year for a real distributor.
Axtually, it's because in new coil-on-plug if the spark doesn't jump, the coil iron stays near saturation and the next pulse pushes it over into deep saturation, where it draws like 5 times the current and soon burns up. The old shared coils got a chance to de-flux on the next firing so they didn't burn up so much.
Distributor Ign coils died too. Don't kid yourself. I did lots of FM impulse mags. They had a strap inside them for a bleed when your wires cap/ rotor wires or plugs died so the spark could jump. The tricky part is to diagnose a mag coil for short to ground.
@@maxwebster7572 Say what you will, but in 30 years I have replaced one conventional coil and I can’t even begin to count the DIS coils.
@@brucecoleman7412 Maybe you get better cars?
I love watching smarter mechanics than me! Outstanding diagnostic skills, brutha!
Most mechanics would pushed the customer to soak much money to repair this, thank you for not ripping off this customer. BLESS YOU MY BROTHER…..
4RUNNER transformed into a NORUNNER.
Dude, you got me binge watching! I really appreciate your abilities. Your narration and choice of words are very entertaining. Great camera angles. Like that you do not perform too much off camera like a produced tv show.. Right on.. Keep em coming
It is impressive that you are able to get your camera into a good view of every part of the jobs.
Ikr
Lol the owner probably tries their hardest to avoid the shudder as much as possible...and Ray just can't get enough of it
"It shouldn't be too much trouble". Famous last words.....
I think that in that type of case analysis, the first thing is to connect the diagnostic tester. So you have a way or first idea where to begin. If not done at first, I think we can check everything and every directions.
Otherwise, it is a channel that deserve more sub's, informative, real (no preparation). Thanks for all your work!
Nah. For that truck a 30 second google search is all that's needed...
@@brentfarvors192 got that right! You'll get right to the issue.
@@chrisburrell8489 ROFLMAO!
“This thing has been worked on by everyone in town”
Sounds like a girl I used to know.
Ray, as usual, awesome video, thank you. I like the explanations of what you think is wrong, how you are taking it apart, why you are checking whatever it is, and even the explanations of the smoke machine. Very informative. I wish I had someone like you in Tokyo who was just a knowledgable about Mexican built VW bugs. Thanks again and Happy New Year to you (I'm watching this during New Year's holidays.
But Scotty said Toyota’s run forever!!!
With basic maintenance. There are certain vehicles that will go forever with the proper maintenance...most Toyotas, Ford Panther platform, Honda engines will go forever but the bodies will eventually peel apart, brick Volvos, a few more.
All 300000 miles
@martin edwards The 'rubber bands' are not difficult to replace. It's only expensive if you have to pay someone.
@martin edwards I was referring to the truck odometers said 265000 I believe is what saw . I have a 2003 that has 198000 tacoma .runs like a top
Toyota transmissions usually have issues between 200-300k mi some of them are worse than others and the 90s trannys were always worse than the 2000s
A bad ignition coil can generate enough electronic noise that it "swamps out" the signal from the cam sensor.
Since the engine ignores the cam sensor below 400 RPM it will start, but after it starts you'll lose the injectors when it switches over to using the cam sensor.
(Below 400 RPM the injectors fire in pairs off the crank sensor, but above 400 they fire individually off the cam sensor).
Since the engine is a "wasted spark" engine the ignition never uses the cam sensor, thats why it would run on brake cleaner.
Unfortunately on most vehicles the only way to diagnose this issue is through the process of elimination.
The only "hint" I've noticed is that BEFORE the engine starts dying , the cruise control starts acting weird since the electronic noise from the faulty coil starts interfering with its ability to measure engine RPM....So always ask the customer if the cruise control works.
I didn’t know that about this engine. Thanks for sharing. You’re 100% correct, it took process of elimination to diagnose this one. 👌
@@RainmanRaysRepairs 31:12 smh he going to get the driver of that car killed he forgot to put the clap back on the hose to the brake booster and what about the starter bolt ?
Ray, you’re too hard on yourself. You’re a great mechanic, you draw a lot of people due to your personality. You don’t to to justify that you just installed o-rings on fittings because people didn’t see it. People can be jerks. It makes them feel better about themselves.
Just be yourself, you’re very confident, don’t fall into the traps. That’s what jerks want. They mess with peoples minds. They’re more jealous about you and your Integriety. Keep up the good work. Let your personality shine. God bless you. Nelson
I like how you have gotten more vocal in your commentary as your channel has aged. I love seeing your old stuff and the things that have stayed the same, but you have definitely improved your videos with your vocal thoughts and chatter as you are working on it. I love hearing your thought process as you work on things.
I normally wouldn't watch a video this long but the troubleshooting process was interesting. Shame there won't be a part 2 for the trans and oil leak.
I suspect fixing the entire car would too expensive. But yes, Mr Stream, I would enjoy a tranny and oil leak repair.
To be honest my first thought was fuel, if this was a misfire this would be the first thing checked 😂
@@howy5799 air first thing i would check, make sure its getting air, then check fuel pressure, then test the coil(s), if all that were ok, pop the cover and check the valves. and too be honest i think the valve cover its leaking on that one, there's oil on the front and the back, i bet they never done a tranny service and the tranny running dry
@@levisvarela3735 the chances of an air leak or air being the problem in anyway is a lot less than ignition system or fuel system failure in my opinion, this is completely dependent on the symptoms of course but yeah in a general misfire kinda issue it would be ignition or fuel i would chase first in my opinion
Plugged exhaust gives you the same symptoms. To many mechanics forget there is four strokes not just three.
I have been watching your videos since the start of 2022. As a shade-tree mechanic in the late 80's then moving on to a 2 stroke technician in the 90's I am fascinated by watching you work. This video had me missing all the doo-dee-doos and clicks which are more often found in your later videos. I noted that you did not use power tools on this repair, and suspect that either you didn't have them yet or chose not to use. them. As there was that one loose bolt you went to town on with just a humble hand ratchet. That being said while I will not be working on cars in my future watching a professional who knows how to do a job is soothing to watch and listen. I note that you seem to have taken on the role of mentor for your viewers, that is cool. Teaching by example is the best method. While I won't be diagnosing no or hard start issues in any new vehicles I can say that thru your vids you have given me a great flow chart of where to start. Further by listening to your diagnostics you will inevitably be helping my local shop's technician with my ability to give them as much information as I am able to based upon how you would liked to have the "customer states" portion of the work order be less terse and more descriptive. So Doo-de-doo to you and keep up your intriguing videos.
Solenoid worked. There was probably just corrosion and gunk on the part of the motor where the brushes make contact. A few passes with super fine grit sand paper will make it good as new. May not be the problem every time, but still a good little trick for a tight budget.
bolt by bolt videos are great because you get to see how pros go about the little things. That people think do not matter....but they do.
Let's see. Brake dash light comes on when the trans is trying to shift from 1st to second. What might be common between the trans and brakes? Vacuum to the trans modulator and brake booster. The brakes were mushy so that lends credence. I'm not familiar with that trans but if there is a vacuum modulator governing shift points that was your issue. Cheap fix and no scrapping the car.
First impression: "Uh oh, I bet it's broken" - awesome statement !
Enjoy all your videos so far. Really like how you always stay positive even when faced with tough situations. 👍
Those starter motors are the same as the ones used of the Land Rover TD5s. It's usually the solenoid that plays up and the motor remains fine. I've used the £7.00 rebuild kit on lots of them and saved to owners literally hundreds of UK pounds.
land rover.. i shiver.. still crap & ford made them craper.. td5 is the best engine,,in the wrong vehicle.. they are built/designed correct, but just not reliable or strong enough.. 1975 f250 highboy. 351c. 5sp. dana diffs.. hear that,,dana diffs.. zf gearbox, cleveland, 205 transfer. all, last forever..ausie..
Nylon washers in the solenoid wear down.
That's my engine! Mine also leaks, but not this bad. Mine is mainly from the timing chain cover gasket. I looked into replacing it. Hahahahaha! I paid less for the truck than the labor for replacing the timing chain.
@Foreverchanger I'm sloooow. I translate hours into days on labor estimates for DIY, so when I see something that takes a mechanic a day, which can be addressed by simply adding oil every thousand miles or so, I'm going to pass.
How did you get such a good deal on a Yota?
@@hothmobile100 it was previously owned by a teenager. I've spent more on parts than I spent on the truck....
"Rut Roh, I think it's broken" that made me smile.
Great work.. that shift from 1st to 2nd was painful to hear 😣
Looking at this I'm just amazed how some people don't even have the ability to do even the most basic auto repairs/maintenance.
This truck suffered from bad maintenance you could tell
It's a 23yr old vehicle with 281,000 miles on it, exactly what kind of "maintenance" was skipped?. It even took Ray, a very good mechanic, awhile to track down those bad coils. Truck's just worn out at this point.
@@ryans413 Really?, how?, it's gone to 281,000 miles, a lot longer than 90% of the vehicles ever made.
@@creamwobbly But eventually father time wins out, even with the best maintenance. One could, if talented enough and with the proper tools, pull and rebuild the engine. Even for a Toyota you need regular oil changes to get 281,000 out of it, that's a trip to the moon!.
@Barry Ariello those 4-runners were fucking workhorses if you took care of them. My buddy had almost 400k miles before his brother decided to roll it derping around a construction site. A lot of Toyotas from that late-80s through 90s were fuckin bulletproof. My 90 Corolla had almost 300k with no issue until my buddy hit the shifter (there was no N to R lock back then you could go straight down R N D and back up without it locking) while trying to dig something out of the back seat. Wasn’t worth fixing.
I do see a plug wire incorrectly installed on the second coil
Yes
He almost put the first coil wire on incorrectly and then switched.
missed it .. respect .
Same ngl it got to me so much like mannnn that coil plug aint on correctly
Transmission grinds... Ckkkkkkkkkk!
Ray: It shuddered bad... Wow! Let's do it again!😂
A little trick I know when dealing with a going out starter if you are trying to get it to start you want to turn the key all the way off before you try turning it again because when it goes from the lowest electrical draw to full current hitting the starter it has a better chance of starting, retry without turning it all the way off and u have less power jumping into the starter when u turn from ACC because the current is flowing to all your accessories, turning from off gives u a better rush of power literally, obviously fixing it works too 😀
Thanks for the tip! I'll pass it along to my wife, her van did this twice in the last couple of weeks. That'll give me time to replace the starter
I gotta hand it to this gentleman, when he takes on a vehicle, he tackles any challenge a vehicle throws at him head on. I also like how he tries his damnedest to figure out what's wrong with the vehicle. He also tries to avoid selling the "parts cannon" to customers, unlike basically every shop in the country.
"Its got turd wheels" thanks, that made my day!
You change out a starter using one hand. You do better work with one hand than most using both hands. Kudos
Ray, Fantastic Channel. I worked as a mechanic P.T. while going to college mid '70's then F.T. in late '70's. Nothing worse than having to work on a HOT car, in the summer. I;m in upstate N.Y.
Damn, I would pay top dollar for that 4runner. Put it on long travel stilts, thick 35s and a roof camper, maybe even cummins swap it. Dream car right there.
ifs, no fkn good.. if your swapping the engine, why buy it.. theres better options. like,tacoma. sas, job done..
You sir are very talented, as well as having super powers being able to smell hydrogen as it is odourless I am extremely impressed
He might have meant to say hydrogen sulphide. from sulphuric acid H2SO4
@@jonka1 that's what it is. Just some people have to be smart a**es
He said battery. You can smell hot acid.. and it's flammable
BS! He's taking the big piss! The fault tester told him it was a bad coil; Which is also %90 of the problem with these Toyota's...The oil ls most likely just a bad valve cover gasket...(Also, a know issue with these engines.) I knew it was a bad coil without even watching that far( And, no. I'm not a mechanic...) I guess the blame rests on the owner knowing nothing about his truck, or how to not wreck the transmission...Hint for anyone that owns a late model Toyota truck: You will need a starter, a spare ignition coil, and a valve cover gasket when you own either the 4 banger, or 6...Also, some undercoating of bar/chain oil to undercoat the frame/chasis...
what he is smelling is hydrogen sulphide.
What a blessing to live in Australia. No wretched ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding while trying to work on the car. Who the hell thought a door open warning dinger was a good idea.?
The Democrats
I don’t think it has ever occurred to automakers to make their vehicles easier to repair.
That was really interesting! I enjoyed watching you troubleshoot that!
It feels funny watching this video while changing the starter on my 2001 Tacoma 3.4 . That was a pain . It did last for 215k miles before it went out .
I think the worst starter ever was on a ~2007 Ford Focus (the sportier model)
Your options are disassemble the entire upper half of the engine and everything in that area, the FSM - remove exhaust sections (lol oookay), or do it 100% blind by feel while engaging in contortionist exhibitions.
That’s some good rustproofing under there! Multiple issues happening.
"Self Lubricating Chassis mod"
Love it!!
Great video…. Now take the plates off, park it next to the dumpster and call for a recycling pickup 👍🏻
Or just put that 'core' sticker on it.
@@PJBonoVox A good parts guy would have looked in the box before taking back .
@@PJBonoVox I laughed way too hard at this.
Second of your videos i've watched so far and have to say that you're doing a great job.
The camera is one of the trickiest things to deal with, especially on this concept being editing takes lead
Great job. Keep it going
He got over 261,000 miles on that baby. Probably did'nt do enough maintenance on it but who knows? But look at the bright side; it goes down with excellent ingnition coils! Another nice video. Thanks Ray and hope your new shop is going good! Best to you!!!
I retired in January but I still find myself watching these videos. I think I have a problem
RIP 4Runner, I almost cried at that ending. Still a better story than twilight.
The legend says that he never put the brake booster hose clamp back on place.
Came to the comments to see if I was the only one who noticed that. When you get in a hurry and worry about other things than your job, you forget shit. Just like he did.
there were a few things he did wrong, but yeah i thought about that too
He forgot the clamp on the starter also..:)
@@MrMaxEffort Wouldn't be caught dead letting this bozo touch my Tacoma...
I noticed that, too. When he closes the hood, you can see it’s still slid back on the hose toward the brake booster
What amazes me is the number of people that drive cars with so many problems. Personally hate any tiny bit wrong. Here in UK anyway.
Digit the dancing queen. :) I worked for Mercedes 30 years ago as a line tech. Sometimes I miss it, most times I dont. I think what I miss most is the camaraderie, but I suspect it has changed a lot with modern sensitivities. After 10 years I went back to school and changed careers.
Most Toyota starter motors have replaceable contacts, You can get the kits a lot cheaper than buying a whole starter motor. I replaced the contacts in my wife's 97 Camry and my brother's 93 Toyota pickup. The symptoms were about the same- sometimes the starter catches and sometimes it just clicks. Great video.
Oh we can all feel that transmission 😥
Those starters are mostly bulletproof Have seen very few that actually were windings or armature or busing problems, what you had wad bad contacts in the solenoid. We replaced the contacts and the contact plate. We used to buy them in bulk like 50 of each contact and 50 plates at a time. Being a commissioned tech i always liked to get paid for rebuilding the solenoid then just replacing the starter. Saved the customer money because they didn't have to buy a starter and made more labor $$ as that's what I was paid from. I bet out of a couple hundred repairs of these types of starters I only saw 2-3 that were actually bad in the starter motor and not the solenoid.
Ive rebuilt a starter in my old 98....took 30 min and cost 3 bucks? they sell those little contact kits...better than a junk rebuild that wont last 4 months...
Loved this one , multiple faults and the difficulties that makes for troubleshooting but to a successful conclusion . Was indeed a very good video.
Based on all that sludge on the front it looks like crank seal was never changed when they had the timing belt(s) replaced. Haven't finished video yet but just a guess from what it looked like
as we say in scotland, its fekin fecked mate, like fekin totally feked. turn it into something useful like beer cans.... great vid
I believe the correct expression is "This fecking fecker is fecked to fecking feckery".
Thanks for mentioning not to forget to disconnect the battery. Knuckleheads will try every single time
That 1 - 2 shift reminds me of when you slam shift an old manual Honda and the entire dash rattles.
There still is a fuel problem. The fuel pressure quickly bleeds down when it stalls or key off. Either a bad fuel pressure regulator, check valve on the fuel pump side or leaking fuel injector(s).
you may be right, but it's an old car with the transmission seized, so spending more money on a problem that causes no problems yet..... I don't think so
Ray, I totally enjoy your videos. I am so amazed at how people treat a very expensive piece of machinery like trash. I grew up in the auto business. My dad was a Firestone tire distributor. There was a small parts store and a small shop where tires were mounted etc. However I was taught how to take care of an automobile. I currently own a 2013 Mustang Convertible (purchased pre-owned) a 2015 Subaru Outback. and a 2021 Subaru Ascent. I do maintenance on my vehicles that probably very few do. I change the engine oil every 3 months, regardless of mileage (usually 200 miles or less. I have had the transmission fluid changed on both the Outback and Mustang (both very low mileage), the transfer case fluid and the differential fluid changed in the Outback, and recently the differential fluid in the Mustang. Cooling system services have been done, brake systems are flushed every 2 years. Currently I am in the process of having all the cooling system hose changed. My idea is to avoid break downs.
On the Subarus, full synthetic oil is highly recommended (I have a 2017 Outback and a 2020 Legacy), so it really shouldn't be necessary to replace engine oil every 3 months (even dealer recommends every 6). If that is how you like doing, then excellent, but if you ever want to save a few dollars and some raw materials, I think you'd be fine.
@@paulsmith9198 I am not interested in saving a little money. I am more interested in having non-contaminated oil in the engine. I drive such little mileage that moisture can build up, so I do extra maintenance to avoid problems. If I was not retired, and there was no pandemic, might change the oil less frequently as the oil would be circulated through the engine better. You never mentioned the other services I have performed. I grew up in the auto business and maintenance was drummed into me, and when I learned to fly, maintenance of the airplane was drummed into me. It is too bad that automobiles do not have Hobbs meters.
The Outback doesn't have a transfer case. It has a center diff. instead at the end transmission.
@@paulgraumann2774 got that right!
Japanese cars and trucks use to be the best. Back in the mid 80s I went from Glendale CA to NYC on a 1969 1.6 cc Datsun station wagon, customized like a sleeper. It took me 3 days with a friend stopping on every state lane to take s picture. My engine never overhead or had any issues. Those days and engines were just some of the best. Kind regards from BC.
"Its got turd wheels" lmao, i almost spit my drink out when he said that!
At today’s prices it’s cheaper to rebuild the whole damn car
My avalon had the clicky starter. I just replaced it, and it ran fine. Never had any more issues with it, other than the 500,000 miles...
I had a 98 Avalon that I loved with 350k miles still runs like a sewing machine today (I wish I never had sold it)
@@mandc20022 Same! I parted ways with mine for $600. It was a great car, ran amazing, had maintenance records for even lightbulbs, and never wrecked. I loved that lil car.
My little neice nicknamed it Tiny Car too XD
Some of the vehicles you get into reminds me of my son's room when he was a teenager.
You called it a diagnostics starter. Why? I assumed the customer really needed it and that you left it in the car and sold it to the customer. Why was it called diagnostic? Also, I am in awe at your ability to look at a nut and determine its size. That is a skill that I do not possess. Mark in Springfield, MO
Don't forget that hose clamp for the power booster hose brother;)
There was bracket on the lower starter bolt too (5:48), after installing "diagnostic starter" that one was not put back as it was before (10:46).
he like your cpmment but did not say yes i fix it when i cut the video
These camera shots are amazing he should do all the repair videos!
Good choice on owners decision. My 92 Chevy pickup has the ubiquitous 700R4 and I had mine rebuilt. (I bought it for secondary use on the ranch). It's a 350, which runs excellent, and now drives very nice. I bought it knowing it needed the trans worked on. Where I live in Kentucky, the cost was $900. The labor was $300. I'm happy 😁 I think vehicles are kinda like a house, in respect to keeping things in decent repair. There's always something to do, and don't abuse the thing. I've got 250, 000 + miles on it 👍
I shudder to think what was wrong with the ignition. Great video thanks for sharing.
In case you ever wondered what "shop supplies" are when you see it on the bill: blowing through multiple cans of brake clean certainly qualifies... It seems oddly satisfying just blazing away with the brake clean...
He's not spraying brake cleaner on plastic & rubber, it destroys them
Brake cleaner is really bad for your health.
Love the non-fused power wire coming off the battery! 🔥🔥🔥
Fused main power leads are a fairly new thing. None of my vehicles had fuses at the battery till my 05 Nissan.
Pretty sure it was a ground to body
What are you talking about? The small wire is extra ground and the big wire goes to starter and they ain't supposed to be fused.
Those typical owners that don't spend a cent on maintenance. Then they come into a shop and say, can you fix it cheap?
They want the massive oil leak that's clearly been completely uncontained for who even knows how many months before this service diagnosed later?? Nothing left to diagnose except for the wiring issue in the customer's brain that's causing a short circuit, causing him to state that "The vehicle doesn't stay running," when in fact, the vehicle wouldn't even run to begin with! I'm just baffled how people are so reliant on their vehicles for their day to day life but they never do any maintenance on them and just wait for them to fall apart and almost kill them before they realize that there's a reason that you're supposed to repair your vehicle...
If you notice the brake light blinks every time it's just about the shift into 2nd I wonder why it would do that
Hydrogen is odorless. You smell Sulphuric acid (Hydrogen Sulphide).
Yea tire right
You drove right past the office of my company! Didn't realize you were in the Fruitville area!
When you did the 1st-2nd shift I cringed and looked away. When you said "let's do it again" I started laughing a bunch.
You’re talented at 1 handed work. It’s impressive
31:12 smh he going to get the driver of that car killed he forgot to put the clap back on the hose to the brake booster
With the "proper" scanner, you would have clearly seen that the problem was the rear muffler bearing.
...or it was the single acting bangle flam that was causing all the heartache.
Considering trying to get out of parts and into the garage as a tech. I havnt done it so far because I wasnt confident in my skills but these videos are making me realize im more skilled than the average joe
Take your average joe and think about how smart he is, then consider that at least half the people you meet are dumber than that. A lot of people are more qualified than they think, its just easier to shuffle average joes around because they don't question things near as often.
Oil saturated engines are a living he'll for mechanics. You handle it well. Not too many mechanics work with out their air tools. Good video.
Oil leaks that large I don’t use brake cleaner. Just a waste. I use purple power 50/50 mix and soak the entire chassis. Let it sit 5 mins and pressure wash off. Brake cleaner is a hell of a lot more expensive than purple power
Dawn dish soap is cheap and I use that. it works fast and emulsifies the oil and cleans everything up. Even little ducks after the Valdez spill.
@@OverlandOne I'd like to try your method . Do you put a 50/50 mix in a pressure sprayer then let it soak then pressure wash ?
@@eaglerider1826 Since I live in an apt. all I do is mix about 1 oz dawn in a small, hand-held spray bottle of water. (like an empty windex bottle) It is handy because you can set it on "spray" to cover areas you can reach close to and "stream" to reach areas you can't. (One of those pump up garden sprayers would work well too but I don't have one here) I let it sit on a warm (not hot) engine for about 10 minutes or so (it turns the oil a coffee color as it emulsifies it) and rinse off with a garden hose. (garden sprayer would be good for rinsing too) It does not take much pressure to do this and, you really don't want to be spraying around inside the engine compartment with high pressure water from a pressure washer anyway. Components in there were designed to be protected from rain but not high pressure sprays. This can get water into alternator or accessory bearings, electrical connections or other sensitive components. It cleaned up everything nicely from my valve cover gasket leak on my Camry which leaked oil from the top of the motor on down everywhere. Now I can see that the new gasket is working fine. Not as fast as brake clean but much, much cheaper and safer.
@@OverlandOne Thank you for the quick reply . I have an extra spray bottle . I have a valve cover leak on my 3.4 and is not a job I want to try myself ( too much involved including pulling the complete intake ) . I have it scheduled to be replaced but want to safely clean the engine once it's done . I'll also wrap the alternator in plastic as the last car I tried this on with brake cleaner I got some in the alternator and had to replace it .
@@eaglerider1826 My old 1995 mercury villager 3.0 was like that. I replaced the front valve cover gasket in 25 minutes, just had to pull the distributor. The rear valve cover gasket required removing the upper and lower intake manifolds, the throttle body, fuel injector rails, etc. I watched 2 videos on YT on how to do it and both guys broke off bolts and had to pull the engine to be able to drill them out. I just let mine back one leak until I junked the car with 265,000 miles on it. (Dealer wanted like $2,000 to do the job) I did the timing belts and all other repairs on that vehicle with no problems but I was not about to try that job with everything as old as it was.
This was a great video. I thoroughly enjoyed watching. I keep coming back for more especially for Honda's and Toyota's. lol Have a great day!
Right now as we speak Hondas and Toyotas were great cars in the 80s in the 90s when they were really putting the American car out of business nowadays they got just as much plastic they're just as junky is all the cars all the cars now or basically made the same they're not made in Japan anymore than made-in-the-usa okay so there's really no difference also Kia's are very good cars I own one that no problem with it I deliberately didn't buy a Toyota because I'm sick of hearing about them they don't last forever back then or now any car except a Chrysler will run a long time if you take care of it
The proverbial "More problems than a Mongoose @ a Cobra Rally"
Omg that shifting was giving me shivers lol.
spent the first twenty minutes just trying to start it.
28:05
I have no clue if it's a problem but the second ignition coil you replaced had a 2 & 3 on it and you replaced it with one that had 1 & 4 written on it.
I can only assume the other ignition pack had a 1 & 4 and you replaced it with one with a 2 & 3.
lol i noticed that also, but it doesnt matter they are identical either way.
forgot to put back the wire harnesses bracket on the lower bolt of the starter around 11:38 and at 5:44 you see yes it was on the stater bolt
Wish I could, but have never been able to work with gloves on. Good work again.