DIY power hammer ultimate upgrade - More money making power
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2019
- !!Expand for more information!!
Watch Joshua De lisle AWCB walk you through the creation process with his hand forged works of Art and Luxury items.
Complete Build patterns are available here: rb.gy/ue77o3
Part 1 Build patterns are available here: etsy.me/2ZX3M1S
Part 2 Build patterns are available here: rb.gy/swmvg8
Part 3 Build patternsare available here:rb.gy/ujgob9
Latest video on the hammer here: • DIY Power hammer + com...
5 part series, In this episode we build our own DIY pneumatic power hammer!
The design is simple, efficent, cost effective and POWERFUL!!
Watch to the end for further exciting announcements
We're considdering developing both DIY patterns/designs and manufacturing finished power hammers for you to purchase, please leave a comment to express interest if you would like to buy one so we know if it is worth our investment.
Useful information:
-The compressor I use is 15cfm, 150ltr, 3hp and single phase.
-The head weight is now 70lb and is solid steel.
-The impact force is roughly 1500lb on a 25mm(1") area.
-Can forge 50mm(2") steel comfortably with excellent control.
-Parts cost roughly £350-£650 to build (not including the compressor) depending on your steel supplier.
- Foot print is 500mm(20") x 400mm(16") and is a maximum height of 1800mm(71").
-using quick exhausts valves does NOT allow the saftey feature of the new electronic valve. but can still be used if wanted.
Parts Affiliate links (US):
Linkage cushion: www.etsy.com/uk/DelisleDesign...
Cylinder - amzn.to/2L4LVmn
Tapping tool for cylinder rod - amzn.to/3ngn7VQ
Mosfet relays - amzn.to/2L6JyzF
Arduino Nano - amzn.to/38fONpg
Solonoid valve - amzn.to/3b5mewO
Proximity sensor - amzn.to/2Xcy93J
Ferrule kit - amzn.to/3pVdVHR
12mm Blue pipe (find push-in fitting to match - 1/2" and 3/8" BSP) - amzn.to/38eoqjx
22 AWG wire for Arduino 5v - amzn.to/2XgcnvK
16 AWG wire for solonoids 12v - amzn.to/3rWHw5S
12v power supply + socket - amzn.to/38hMPou
Soldering kit + Voltmeter - amzn.to/38i9f8Y
Buck converter for ardunino power supply (set it to 7v to the Vin pin) - amzn.to/2JKRW79
Guide wheels (need 2 packs) - amzn.to/2KVEZbu
Ball valve (control) - amzn.to/3rSPKMa
Parts Affiliate link (UK)
Linkage cushion: www.etsy.com/uk/DelisleDesign...
Cylinder - amzn.to/3b9EHrX
Tapping tool for cylinder rod - amzn.to/2XdrI0s
Mosfet relays - amzn.to/35eeSTT
Arduino Nano - amzn.to/3nkdtRQ
Solonoid valve - amzn.to/2XdQddO
Proximity sensor - amzn.to/35d5rEi
Ferrule kit - amzn.to/3pRVPqg
12mm Blue pipe (find push-in fitting to match - 1/2" and 3/8" BSP) - amzn.to/392qc6K
22 AWG wire for Arduino 5v - amzn.to/3nf9Tsf
16 AWG wire for solonoids 12v - amzn.to/3pOFwdU
12v power supply - amzn.to/38XL52U
12v socket - amzn.to/3912hEB
Soldering kit + Voltmeter - amzn.to/3pRIfDg
Buck converter for ardunino power supply (set it to 7v to the Vin pin)- amzn.to/3rUytCg
Guide wheels (need 2 packs) - amzn.to/35bsMpZ
Ball valve (control) - amzn.to/38gocZl
For latest news and insights visit our instagram page here:
/ delisledesignerblacksmith
FaceBook page here (I'm not on it enough to answer questions on FB):
/ delisledesignerblacksmith
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This is the most loveliest thing I have ever seen.
This really is my favorite diy power hammer design. It is compact, simple and easily customizable. Great work on that power hammer!
Excellent design simple effective fantastic would love to get a copy of Prince gladly pay for them on a budget but can weld and forge timweierke17@gmail.com
I love the honesty of your work .
Well done keep it up.
Thank you Kev! Honesty is the besy policy. cheers J
I love the design and how you made it from easily attainable and affordable components.
Thank you, lots more like this coming soon. Cheers J
Absolutely love this .... Best online DIY power hammer I've seen ... Professional build !! And actually packs a punch for a very compact machine !!! Love love love it !!
Thank you very much. All the very best. Cheers J
I'm looking forward to getting this thing built!
I would love to see it when you're done, do tag me in any posts so I can see. All the very best. J
I saw the the small preview of what looked like changable hammer dies . Cant wait to see you go into depth on that. Great vid!
I started filming more on that. Very simple, I used the same system on my old sahinler sm50 and never needed to change the pallets which is why I just welded mine on, also it's very fast tool change over which is helpful for progressive die forging or switching to cutt off tool. Cheers J
Thanks Josh...great update 🇨🇦
Thank you Simon. More coming soon. Cheers J
Hit like just on the enthusiasm of your intro! Now going to watch the rest of the video. Nice job Josh!
Thank you Matthew! I hope you enjoyed it. cheers J
Awsome. I need that sprayer. Never seen one like that.
Just a little tip. When soldering or brazing tubing, if you flow a small trickle of nitrogen through it, it will prevent oxidation contamination from forming inside the tube when you heat it with flame, thus keeping trash out of system. Love the videos. This is an impressive build.
This machine is really amazing 😍😍🌞
Brill Joshua. I will get on to that once my Hut is up, just the weather and old age holding me back...
I just purchased the Plans for the Hammer and the upgrades plans > i am brand new to Blacksmithing but it fascinates me and all I have is an anvil and hammer and i found out fast a Power Hammer will save your arm. These 2 Power Hammer videos are excellent and I love the idea of pneumatic parts makes this Simple mechanically.
Thank you so much. I just messaged you via Etsy. Any problems please let me know and I hope you have great fun building it. I've got more upgraded coming soon including electronic valves and a hydraulic cylinder. Cheers J
Very nice design. Unique and hits hard. I have two hammers in my shop. But I bought them. You CREATED yours.
Thank you so much. I'm upgrading it further too. The thing I like a lot about this hammer is that I can customise and modify it. Works so well. Cheers J
I love small UA-camrs like this guy right here
Thank you Tim. I'll try and remain relatable. Cheers J
Nice work Joshua!
Thank you!
Thanks for the vid great work. I had way more luck in my paint booth throwing up a forty foot hose to chill the air before the water trap. Just in case you run into condensation trouble.
Just found your channel the other night, love it. If you don't mind I'm going to shout you out to my 22k viewers. Your work is excellent and should be shared more.
Wow thats very kind! Thank you, I will have a look at yours too, cheers J
@@joshuadelisle it's up to you, I timber frame and I'm teaching myself blacksmithing but what I know about blacksmithing couldn't shine your boots. Great work.
Hiya Jim ;0)
Your Hammer is awesome! I am interested in DIY plans for it when they are available. Sweet!!
Thank you. All is in the description. Cheers J
Its us who have to thankyou mate, massive inproviment btw, keep up the exelent job, we love your videos (Big ups)
Thank you Heelf for always supporting me, I appreciate it. J
Hi Joshua power hammer video great to watch,informitave and with good results. well done.
Thank you. Lots more coming soon. Cheers J
Great video as always Looking forward to seeing the next one Thank you for your time and hard work God bless have a great day⛪📖
Thank you very much for blessing me! bless you too for watching the videos and supporting me on this journey. cheers J
Your work is genius I was just acquired 4 foot of train rail I’m trying to get more and hope to start smithing after the beginning of next year I’m going to start his shop building all my furnace is an even my welder will be homemade
Nice!
Brilliant thanks I got the plan's from the last one havant had time yet to do it
Awesome! took me roughly 2 days. week end job if you got the kit ready.cheers J
This is the best homemade power hammer on you tube.
Thank you! Cheers J
An honest, appreciative and humble maker / blacksmith who makes cool S#&@ ?!?! SUBSCRIBED!
Thank you Joe. Cheers J
Your so good!
Thank you Jessy that's very kind of you. It gets better in the newer videos. Cheers J
Enjoy your content came over from the Tradesman Channel 👍
Welcome!
The cost of a 4” diameter solid round bar is stunning. I’d have to buy a 20’ length. Insanely expensive. I looked into junk steel driveshafts then got distracted by my day job. One day I’ll get back to this.
It's certainly not cheap but you do need the mass. It could be a laminate of several bars welded together but if you're buying new a single bar is cheapest. Cheers J
Very nice! My own fabrication skills are a bit lacking so I will wait for the finished manufactured product. Looking forward to the day when you begin selling them to us lesser mortals. I'd better start saving now!
Thank you so much! We will be in production sometime soon
and may even run a kickstarter campaign. i'm giving the prototype a run through its paces first judst incase any problems accure.. I don't want any returns if I can help it and hope that these serve everyone well for a long time. we're hoping to produce them for £2050 free shipping UK mainland
@@joshuadelisle I'm not on the mainland :-( I hate that shipping costs more to Highlands, Islands and Northern Ireland because we are all in the UK and the post office promises to treat us all the same! It's not something that you personally created so I don't attach any blame to you, but if you personally wish all wannabe smiths to have an equal chance then maybe you could pressure the postal services to deliver your product anywhere in the UK for the same price. I've posted this same message to many manufacturers and vendors and hope that someday enough of them will take action to make the delivery services treat everyone within he UK equally!
That said, I really like the idea that you have considered a kickstarter campaign. That would be a really good way for me to afford your product. £2050 for what you offer is an amazing price and I hope that enough people in my position will find it tempting to make sure that you profit from the design! You deserve to make a living from your clever design and I wish you every success.
I would use palletline for the UK only we use them a lot for the large wood burners we build and it's roughly £50 for a 1m pallet. Outside of the mainland I'll do some research and find out what the extra cost would be for you. I need to work out shipping and tax for USA customers also. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle have you calculated shipping costs across the pond to the USA?
@@beatlebomber Not yet, its all a bit complicated with import tax etc, It may work cheaper to buy the components seperately and assembled in the USA as a way around it. but not yet. i'm still optimising it further and testing for wear and tear first before we start production, since releasing the videos ive had good feedback from more experienced pneumatic engineers who have given me good tips and will continue to share what I find in the next videos. cheers J
Thank you for the reply. Yes if you are happy with the wheels and they are holding up, by all means don't change anything. Especially if they aren't expensive. And also as you say they are easy to change. Did you consider how scalable your design is. That is truly a good selling point. It seems to me that if you need more power for a particularly heavy job you could add additional weight on top of the ram. One could make provisions to add weight when needed. Keep on keeping on and have a good week.
Hey Glenn. I don't think I could scale this without needing a far larger compressor which needs industrial fittings and cylinders which also puts it in a large price jump not to mention the wheels would no longer be enough. adding weight also won't work as you need the speed, there is a optimum point of weight to speed ratio to give maximum power. for example you can forge more with a small weighted 2.5lb hand hammer and a long shaft compared to a heavy 4lb hammer with a short shaft because of the higher speed of impact and frequency of blows. I think I've got the ratio just right but the biggest question is still airflow. i'm going to put the new valve next to the cylinder ports which should help it further.cheers J
Great job! Im really glead u back to forging. Greetings to u from fellow blacksmith from Poland :)
Thank you so much! cheers J
Suggestion. Put som sand in the vertical square tubing to deaden the clank. You'll enjoy the quiet and the hammer will sound more expensive. 😁
Already on it and mentioned it in the first video, great minds think alike ;) cheers J
very cool optimizations & explanations, enjoyed it. i'd like to build one but my career just crashed & burned abruptly 2 months ago & i gotta find a replacement quick just to stay roofed & fed.
Thank you. I'm sorry to hear that. I hope you can adapt quickly to a profitable industry that values your skills. All the very best. Cheers J
Good work and well designed! do you have a parts list?
Would like to buy a build list. That the best video I have ever seen.
Thank you. Do watch the latest video as it has improved even more. Cheers J
tyvm
Sorry ,, just seen the description! Thanks.
Thank you. Cheers J
Very well thought out changes. The size and ability make the hammer very appealing. Nicely done!
I love it, plenty of power in a tiny space, I can even move the compressor outside in a separate shed if needed. Cheers J
what is the function of this part behind the machine connected to the pneumatic cylinder
Wow , I like Om Jos👍👍
Thank you so much! The video after this one upgrades it even more. Cheers J
Take care to have a good filter on the inlet at the compressor AND at the valve and cylinder feed. Life of all will be x10. And you must add a oiler, simple and cheap.
Would definitely be interested in the plans, possibly interested in a finished unit
That you! Should be a link in the description for the plans, I'm hoping to start manufacturing these soon once I've finished it's trial and testing period. At the moment I can only supply to the UK until brexit is finalized, currently it's £2050 standard model, free delivery and powder coated. Other models will be available also with specific differences which affects the price. Cheers J
you could use the foot pedal to operate a larger pilot operated air valve. Awesome work on the soldering, BTW. Cheap advice... Take the washer back out. That cylinder has "cushions" already. Those collars on each side of the piston are designed to reduce the air flow at end of stroke and do exactly what you are trying to do with the rubber washer.
Hey dude. at that pressure the air breaks don't work as I did already try that before the cushion. cushion is definately needed I think.
I love your work, the hammer is by far the best I've seen. I'm trying to figure out if I am going to be able to build and run it.
Is the cylinder under pressure on both strokes? And if you hold down the foot pedal does it cycle up and down or do you have to press the pedal for every stroke. Lastly I have a small 50ltr compressor with about 9 cfm would that be enough?
Can't wait to get your plans to build this. Thanks for all your content and for sharing your knowledge and skill.
Do have a look at my latest video. I've improved it further and will be releasing new schematics soon. Cheers J
Maybe add 1 more set of wheels on each side toward the bottom to help wit the ram stability over time
Joshua, I received your reply. There was one thing I have been thinking about quite a bit. Although I feel like the design is actually revolutionary, it is hard to get over the roller skate guide wheels. What would you think about taking the wheel arrangement along with the supporting means and replacing that whole gubbins with a pipe sleeve. This would be a fairly close fitting drawn over mandrel (DOM) round mechanical tube. It shouldn't be too tight fitting but not sloppy either. The sleeve would be supported by some welded plate arrangement or possibly a rectangular arrangement of bars. The sleeve would be aligned such that the ram is centered on the anvil when the weldment is tacked up. I was thinking that if the ram got deformed on the bottom end then it couldn't ever be removed or pulled out of the sleeve. But why ever would you want to remove the ram and if you do need to, and the bottom is flared out from use then it could be ground round again to get out. Just think about this, there may be good reasons this isn't a good idea but from a distance this seems to be a way of improving an already "excellent" concept. Your design is so simple yet yields so very much. Thanks for listening.
Hey Glenn! So far I'm not seeing any problems, but it is early to tell with out a propper endurance test. what your suggesting works for many hammers and they also use special plastics and oil imprgnated alloys to help reduce friction, however whats keeping me to retain the concept of the wheels is cost effectiveness. if these wheels continue to work as well as they are doing then its a super cheap solution and very easily replaced. they are low friction and hard wearing. damage to the cylinder overtime is the question but if it is an issue I think the solution will be in the joint between the hammer and the cylinder, either a floating or flexable joint I think. I'm going to push it till it breaks then i'll fix it. while its not broken I think I'll leave it. I'm not going to manufacture them until I feel it has worked enough hours to justify the cost in replacing the cylinder as a consumerble part. cheers J
Hi Joshua,
a couple of thoughts to help things along.
I the design of the cylinder is a cushion to slow the stroke down at each end. Looking at the piston you have the largest diameter with the o-ring and sliding bearing, then next diameter down is for the cushion seal. As this enters the end cap an o-ring seals the airs escape only allowing it to pass through the small hole on the right hand side in the video. There should be a screw in the end cap to adjust how much cushioning there is.
I have at work fitted external dampers to cylinders easier to adjust and replace.
I have also drilled out the inlet port for the cylinder. It might be a 1/4 bsp fitting but a 2mm hole in the port. Another big gain would be to mount the valve closer to the cylinder if you imagine when operate the foot pedal all the copper pipe empties of air you have to refill this before any work can be done. Mechanically linking your new valve to the foot pedal with the valve mounted as close to the cylinder as possible. And if you want to go the whole nine yards you could fit a small receiver just before the valve.
Sorry if this is a bit of an epic reply. Keep up the good work
Hey Jo! I found that the air break didnt work at that pressure with the force of the load and still was knocking too hard, the cushion was my attempt to make the cylinder last a bit longer without welding more bits on, so far its working better with the new cushion but i'm no expert in pneumatics. I thought that would be a good idea with the new valve to position it next to the cylinder so the drop in pressure in the pipes is quicker to re pressurise between cycles just like you said. I'm also wondering if the larger pipe is having a negative effect and that thin pipe might work better afterall but i'm not sure as it still seems to work really well? Thank you so much for sharing what you know I really find it helpful. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle the rubber doughnut will work fine especially with the larger hole in it. Not taking in to account said doughnut your cylinder is near enough 250cc or 0.009 cubic feet, therefore that amount of air has to get in and out as quick as possible so fat pipes will be best. think of it like a bucket of water or a super soaker both get you wet with the same amount of water but a bucket is quicker!!
@@qshed It makes sense and I think of it like blowing air through a thin straw or a large straw you can feel the difference, a friend of mine though was explaining fluid dynamics and he wasn't too sure, because of the airs elastic properties and turbulance he recons it might be faster with slightly thinner pipe but again it sounded like the problem is solved by having the vlave close to the cylinder ports. he also thinks the quick exhaust vlaves could be the reason the air brakes don't work so well. I think I need to do more experiments to really find out. cheers J
of course if you do the maths correctly it's bigger nearly 800 cc 63mm more by 250mm stroke I think you said.
Hi Joshua, Great design! I bought the plans and will be making mine soon. Just one question, the link to the 1/2" valve on Amazon brings me to a valve that costs $236.09. I don't think this is right and could use your advice about the correct one to buy as I am not familiar with this type of valve. Once again, Great Job and thanks for sharing!
Ah i Think it is the same valve but coming from another country so you have shipping and inport tax like a beast.... simple scroll around for a similar valve there is nothing special about that one.
are you shipping to the US
I have a question. Is the motor of your forge hood still going strong?
I just want to buy a one that won't melt so fast.
Thanks
AH! no it broke ( mentioned it in another video) i've got something different, I'm saving it for a new video but I'll explain it to you. I built a stanless 3m chimney and it still didnt draw very well, so i installed a small blower with a pipe going in under the chiney creating a venturi effect, its on a potentiometer to controll the draw and works a treat, will update with a video. cheers J
I did not have good results plumbing my hammer with copper. It's a different design, but same general concept. The problem I had was there were a few spots where the pipe was flexing ever so slightly. The metal got fatigued and failed after a few weeks of use. I bought good quality high capacity rubber hoses for those specific links. This seems like less of an issue for how your hammer is put together, but something to still be mindful of.
Hi Dan, I didn't have trouble with mine but I did change the valve and now use rubber again, its a good idea. coming in the next video very soon. cheers J
You're superb
Your very kind. Cheers J
And installing the thinner walled donut may, in time, cause the piston to “dish” as the edge of the piston comes into contact, under pressure, with the donut. Did you use any anti-chafing material where the copper pipe goes through the steel square uprights?
I used rubber Gromits, however i'm changing it all again to suit the new valve pedal. coming soon in a new video. cheers J
I like the design of this power hammer a lot. It seems to pack quite punch...
From an engineering standpoint I have a few thoughts on possible improvements that may or may not be of use for You.
Perhaps it would be better to use a commercial double threaded rubber damper on the cylinder shaft instead of having to disassemble the cylinder. Will also help with misalignment and puts less impulse load on the cylinder shaft as well. These are cheap and available with various internal and external threads.
Putting the valve right at the cylinder could help and also a few liter small tank acting as accumulator close to the cylinder would help. An electric or pneumatic valve would give You the flexibility of putting the control pedal wherever it is needed. This way You only need one hefty copper pipe up the power hammer.
I have had problems with copper pipe under vibration. I suggest being careful relieving stress by proper bends and perhaps using fosco soldering instead of tin.
The roller skate wheels will hold upp better if You can put them at 45 degres so that the side load is minimized. I would expect that alignment would also be better since You can preload them harder against the ram.
Perhaps a simple boolt on guard to catch the ram in case of wheel failure could be a safety feature.
A warning, I had problems with silicone in my shop, it's now a silicone free zone...
My issues where painting and gluing and also electrical contacts failing due to sparking and SiO2 buildup. I never use the sprays anymore, insides a cylinder a rubber safe grease with or without the silicone is better anyway.
Thank you so much for that, all very good helpful tips. Please would you share s link to the double rubber damper as I'm very interested in it. I've already moved the valve next to the cylinder like you said and got rid of the copper in the newer video. Thank you and all the very best. J
Would it make the air flow better if you would make the big square metal tubing air tight then hard pipe from the square tubing to the cylinder? That has 2 pressure feeds right you could do it with both big tubes and connect each line from the pedal to each leg then from each leg 1 feeds the extend side and 1 feeds the retract side? It would even give you more air volume right? I'm not sure if it would work it was just a thought.
My idea above would in theory help with the fact that there would be enough air in the leg to to make the cylinder go so the small outlets on the foot pedal maybe wouldn't matter as much. Or maybe my whole idea would create some sort of lag because the air amount wouldn't be exact? Dang wish I was an engineer. What if you used an electric foot pedal that controlled an actuator right on the leg that would maybe have the ability to supply a ton of airflow with the shortest distance? Lol who knows just a thought
Hi. I've changed it since and scrapped the copper and went to pneumatic semi rigid blue tube. I've got a new video coming out soon with electronic valves and new top linkage. Cheers J
Just a thought.
if it does not seem to be performing as expected, you may look in to the fact that you have take the pressure out of one diameter (a small diameter, meaning the flex tubing) and passed that in to a larger diameter (the copper tubing which is like 5 times the orifice size). Just as when you step down water through a faucet with a restriction washer to increase the pressure, the same stands true when you step up the water flow without increasing the pressure into the larger, you need to increase the pressure to maintain the output.
i dunno
I think the washer re cut cured it, I think air was sliping passed in between the washer an the end of the cylinder staggering the stroke. interesting thought on the pipe I must run more experiemnts
Love this power hammer. Bought the plans. How can I get a copy of upgrades?
So are really it's just boring out the quick exhaust with a drill, adding the cushion to the cylinder and using 15mm or similar pipe with 1/2" connections. I've not drafted a new page on that yet but maybe I should. Cheers J
Another wonderful video. What are the advantages of your power hammer as compared to the "tire hammer" design? Am I correct in saying maximum power with control is the goal?
Hi. It's theoretically more efficient because of less moving parts, easier to build for the same reason, it's smaller and compact but still powerful, easy to customise and incorporate automation by using a solonoid valve systems, working parts are cheaper and easy to maintain. Cheers J
Thank you Joshua.
Hi, great idea and good job I really like it ! Just...of copper pipe is fireproof, soldering between two copper pipe are not.... Eventually you can use silver soldering which it's use for fire extinguisher system 😉
interesting I'll test that. thanks for the tip. cheers J
might be a bit late now but can you not use the the end soft stops on the end off the ram to stop it? it's the small screw beside the inlet's you can adjust, keep up the good work!!
They don't work at that pressure and are already set to do so. On lower pressure the air breaks work well. Cheers J
Just wondering, Are you an engineer , scientist. Mechanic ,etc. The way your mind works is amazing. Enjoyed watching you work and problem solve.Solid build, may consider taking it on one day 🤙
Thank you. Fabrication and engineering is my day job, I solve any problems my team faces and advise in R an D. All the very best, I've got more on the power hammer coming soon. Cheers J
Hei! First of all, great job! Did you try to adjust the air breke of the cilinder instead of placing that balistic rubber inside. As far as I could see in your video, that cilinder has at the ends two small insert pins that could be asjusted in order to have a good brake at the end, that means that the piston will not knock at the end of stroke. Best regards!
Hi. Yes it does but at those pressures and momentum of mass it doesn't do much. It can work without a rubber cushion by using a solonoid valve and limit switch which will create an air cushion before full extension, this will also act as a spring by holding potential energy before being released again. I'll be experimenting with that soon with some ideas using Arduino too. Cheers J
wow nice ,parts not able to ship to south africa ,so need do some mods on your design
Look in the description for a list of parts. Use the specs to source locally. Cheers J
Noting your machine floor mounting arrangement is direct hard to hard. This will affect the apparent recoil of the mechanism. The heavy vibration could be expected to show up as various structural failures over time. Design engineers would normally take into account recoil in the foot detail with some recoil safety margin. I have seen something like 3x factor x load, from hazy memory of a 300KN universal test machine instal, mitigating the point impacts/loads over time with a resilient shock absorbing material like 'Fabcell' a UK product. The manufacturer would provide recommendations for area and number of support pads/foot print required for your application.
I love it I had to quit forge
This looks like I can do it again my back and wrists can't take hammering any more
@@alansturgill4861 anything is possible. Cheers J
Is there a reason you didn’t set up and adjust the cushion valves that are built in the the end cap and annulus cap of the cylinder itself?
You could do away with the rubber and really reduce the shock load forces on the tie rods.
Hi. I did but at 120psi with the momentum of the hammer it does nothing.
yes plans please...thank you... Martin
Plans are now available, just click the link in the description with a 10% discount. I hope you enjoy the upgrades in the latest videos airing today. Catch you soon. J
Nice build and upgrades. Couldn't you put the rubber stop on the hammer mechanisme itself? You can reduce the travel and thus stop your piston bottoming out. Is is done a lot on car suspensions and it is super easy to change when they are worn.
So far the cushion works well otherwise I would have to weld in some serious u bracket and I don't really want to do that. Cheers J
That's true. Just thinking for easy maintenance when you sell them. Not every body is confident to take a piston apart when it is worn. With some cars they are just on the outside off the piston rod. Still a great job and hope you could sell them to keep you're channel growing👍
@@tomwagemans1872 thank you Tom! Maybe... I kind of think if someone is brave enough to use a power hammer to forge steel then unscrewing a few bolts shouldn't be a problem. But I'll take that advice onboard. Cheers J
Is this power hammer on Kick Starter? Should be.
Do you not oil your air supply? Gonna go through o-rings in your cylinder quicker and if you ever go with a reciprocating valve system you're gonna melt the o-ring.
I was told not to use oil in the air because it might destroy the o-rings and the o-rings are made to last. I guess the only way to know is to try.
Your design is quite clever, congratulations. Did you ever consider spreading the wheels out further in the vertical direction? they don't need to be so close together. I don't see any ill effects to spreading them out further and they will do a better job of keeping the ram aligned. As you hammer there will be eccentricities in the system. The hammer and the anvil and the work will not be exactly aligned due to the deformations in the work and other things. If you spread the wheels further apart they will be able to accommodate more eccentric loading with less load on the actual wheels and less lateral deflections. You have a good thing going here. Thanks for sharing.
I hear what your saying, however because of the travel of the ram it is set to the maximum spread alraedy and if widened more it would pop out of the supports. only way i can make it wider is to have a longer hammer head. cheers J
You are so right, I didn't realize your stroke was so long. But anyway your design is outstanding. Well thought out and well done.
@@glennfelpel9785 Thank you so much Glen! the hammer isn't perfect but with your help I can get it optimised frurther if you find anything else or have knolege of something that i've missed, I'm always open to better ideas. cheers J
Mate how do I order one I'm from South Africa- Cape Town
Add lead ballast to the hammer..an extra 10 to 30lb would make it hit harder
Or a counter balance like a seasaw
I’m going to build it. I was wondering why not use a electric air solenoid 1/2 valve instead of the manual valve. A stepper motor with a cam Might be a ez solution???
Yes see the latest video as I talk more on that. Another option is a steam linkage. Cheers J
Hi Joshua. Great build. Maybe I missed it but what is the mass of the moving parts? Good move creating the plans. I see this being one of those classic builds that is pulled out on the forums every time a diy hammer is mentioned 🤩
Thank you. acceleration X the mass = force, we worked it out that if the hammer head is 68LB then it roughly delivers 1500lb of force on a 1" area.
Thanks. I'm building a similar hammer with scrap and want to size the moving parts.The acceleration you should use in that equation is actually the deceleration of the hammer mass when it hits the workpiece. As the distance it decelerates over is very small (related to the reactive mass of the anvil, the stiffness of the structure and how much it moved the metal in the workpiece) the acceleration will be huge and you will find the force is much greater than you have calculated. Your calculation leads to a pressure of 1500psi. This is far lower than the yield stress of hot metal and so it has to be higher than this, otherwise the metal would not move. Sorry to be a nerd...but I am an engineer :)
@@machineshopatthebottomofth3213 Does that make you another enginerd then!!
Do you have an alternate ordering method for the pdf of your plans? (Etsy won't take my american visa card)
Have you tried using PayPal on Etsy? That's a safer and easier way of doing it. Cheers J
😍🤩🔥
Dide you drill out the cylinder to 1/2 or just went with 3/8
Hi I used a 3/8 to 1/2 reducer. Cheers J
An air cushion can be designed several different ways into a pneumatic cylinder. An inner tube inside a frame member can become an effective accumulator to store energy. Just a couple thoughts. Time to watch.
The in built air cushion doesn't have much effect with this weight and momentum. If the rubber cushion fails I'll look into a sprung bump stop. So far it's ok. Got a big project that will put it through its paces coming soon. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle I thought about writing more details about a trigger system that introduces full opposing pressure at just the right moment. At first I wondered if a hydraulic damper would handle the mass better but considering the height restriction it would probably require a linkage. You got to love projects that get people thinking. Peace.
@@WireWeHere it's been brilliant hearing everyone's different approach. Your right you could introduce a valved proximity switch that puts equal pressure into both sides of the cylinder before it reaches the top. I'll have a think about that. Cheers J
Are you selling those? Would like to buy one to ship to Germany😅
Why not shorten the stroke potential of the cylinder so the hammers bottoms out before it can hit the inside bottom of the cylinder?
I want that power hammer
Thank you. Check out the description for details. Cheers J
I am thinking if you made that cushion donut fix to the piston rather than the cylinder you would have hade the airflow the system requires. But definitely the donut is a good idea. An air filter/strainer is a good idea, but maybe that’s in your regulator.
Thank you, all works well now with the modification. cheers J
Do you by any chance have shop press plans?
I would love a press but hydraulics are far more expensive for the same rate of force. I would love a cheap tractor and tee off from the hydraulics to power one. One day maybe. Cheers J
A thick cushion thicker than you had will cause less force in your cylinder
Very nice!!!
Could it be possible to use it as a “tire” hammer?
how do you mean?
Joshua De Lisle, instead of a pneumatic ram. couldcould it be adapted to use a electric motor to a rubber tire like a car tire
You could but why would you need to?
@@joshuadelisle The main reason would be the prohibitive cost of an air compressor large enough to power the hammer efficiently. Also tire hammers operate a little quieter. Hey Joshua, did you consider sand filling the uprights to cut vibration? I absolutely love this design of yours by the way, that ram guide system is genius!!
@@howdyadoo1 Thank you so much! yes I mentioned sand in the first video definately a good idea. For me I found that the motors for the tire hammer are more expensive than suitable a compressor here in england but I mainly like the minimal amount of moving parts and areas of friction. cheers J
So, if I understand the operation of the hammer, you have to depress the foot pedal each time you want it to strike a blow? Hmmm, if that's the case, I think I'd try to create a simple mechanism that would operate the switch automatically so you could just hold the pedal down and have it just run continuously. Of course, a simple cam on a small rotating wheel would suffice and you'd have to make it the correct size to "time" the operation to the air cylinder's cycle time. Also, if the continuous operation mode could be easily and quickly disengaged, then you could have the finer control with the pedal for lighter blows and only when wanted.
you could but I like the control of every blow with precise pressure. the autonomy wastes air and therefore enrergy ineficient. but this style is efficient, simple and highly controlled. cheers j
Use a dampemed pneumatic piston instead off using a regular one IT Will not slam and save your time and money love the Idea
The cylinder bit use is dampened but at these pressures and momentum it' doesn't work. New video this Friday all sorted with a much better system. Cheers J
How much are they to by all ready dun thanks gwyn
£2050 free uk delivery
I would like to set it through its pacess harder before i'm confident on the final build before selling, don't want any returns. but anything I find I will share
You may not like the copper, it doesn't like vibration. Hopefully it holds well. Great build
so far its been good and so sign of stesses, but time will tell. cheers J
@@joshuadelisle was also thinking instead of mufflers you could run tube into one of the uprights and put some stainless scrubbing pads in. Gonna look for parts to see what my cost here will be. What CFM is your compressor?
@@the_sharp_carpenter not a bad idea, mufflers are cheap though. Mine is 15cfm 150ltr tank capacity.
@@joshuadelisle thanks, yeah just was thinking it might cut even more noise, but then again it's for hitting metal lol.
Adding to his comment, I would definitely put a piece of flex hose in the copper line near the compressor. Those things move a LOT and any vibration will crack the solder joints over time and that sudden pop of a line is enough to make a grown man mess his pants, worse with hot steel in the hand.
Might I suggest external limit blocks so that your not using the body of the ram to end the stroke! Regards, Matthew.
Again all explained in the new video. cheers J
Same as water pressure or air pressure you always funnel down to get more pressure you don’t come out of a small fitting to a bigger fitting you lose pressure you go from bigger feelings too small fittings Weatherby air or water
Badass. How much would one cost?
Thank you. It's still in its trial stage, I've made a few minor changes but not much, I would add a guard to the wheels just incase. Currently I've costed them to be £2050 free UK delivery. Powder coated any colour you choose. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle I'm in the United States. Do you shit across the pond?
Thank you for sharing, good up grades, nice video as always,
however, I see you will have to cut a hole in the roof of your shade and put a
clear babble so you can stand strait, have a good day.
New workshop is in the cards for teaching courses and making bigger projects. Cheers J
Instead of the foot petal why not use a foot switch and use solenoids like the ones used for welding gas?
You’re losing air pressure after the regulator when you go any bigger copper pipe the smaller pipe or change the pressure that it left the regulator at you consider and 3/8 icemaker line you will not get the more volume but it will maintain the pressure that is leaving the regulator rat consider that
Already on it and have made changes in the next video, cheers and all the best. J
probably would be more powerful if cylinder was positioned to hit on extension stroke because the retraction stroke of a cylinder because effective surface area is smaller due to the shaft
It would logicly appear so, however I found the opposite works much better because on the downstroke it uses the side of the cylinder with the rod which means there is less volume to fill and the stroke happens faster aided by gravity, on the upstroke the cylinder has maximum strength because it uses the full size of the bore which is great to lift the weight back up against gravity which would be slower the opposite way round. cheers J
Advice on pre heating minimum 50C on the 100mm bar
Thank you George. good advice hear
Always a privilege to pas on my experience to those willing to listen how are the turbine plans progressing