Thank you sir. Back in the 80's I never did anything with a BBD except throw them away. Always had to make room for a Thermoquad. Now that I simply wanted a good daily driver (84 D 150, 318/727) my notes on TQ's didn't help. The carb I'm using is a 74 and my only deviation from your guide was between 1/32 and 1/16 of a gap in the needle setting to give a little more fuel to compensate for the stupid corn juice in our gas.
Mike, I thought I would share this since I haven't seen anything about it anywhere. I have a 79 AMC Concord, 258 inline 6, BBD carb. I have been having problems getting it to cold start, idle smooth, running too rich, etc. I followed all the stuff from the rebuild kit sheet and Chiltons. Finally, I located an obscure paragraph in Chiltons, in the general tune up section. An object labeled "Solenoid". Always on and holds the idle at a set minimum. The curb idle screw does nothing when the solenoid is energized. *** The curb idle on a 1979 BBD is adjusted with the Idle Mixture screws, not the curb idle screw. *** The curb idle only stops the throttle plates from jamming in the bores. It was obscurely labeled as an "Anti-dieseling" solenoid somewhere I saw. According to Chilton, on the YF, BBD, Motorcraft carbs for 1979 this solenoid is supposed to be adjustable. It is not on the 79. Emissions, no doubt. The EGR port at the back of the carb is gone and re-routed to a coolant temp switch and other junk that don't and are unobtainable. I thought I would share this weirdness. AMC, gotta love 'em.
Hi Mike, I have a 1973 Dodge B100 Van with the 318 (all original)...I thought I was looking at a BBD Carter but it turns out it's a Holley 2800 (the big 'Holley' cast into casting gave it away)... If I want to swap it for a Carter BBD is it a straight swap or are there modifications needed? Any advice appreciated as you obviously know what you're doing with these carbs... Thanks.
From what I've read, it seems your accel pump adjustment was wrong. The 0.5" dimension should be from the top of the pump shaft to the top of the bowl surface. The Carter manual terms "to float bowl cover", which should be "dust cover" for these 1970's "solid fuel" type ("tin top"). With that set in mine (as found, no adjustment needed), I measure 0.618" to the bottom of the float bowl (raised round plateau around accel shaft) which is the measurement you make. So, yours will be giving too rich of an accel shot, perhaps giving a puff of smoke or even a stumble when you quickly push the accelerator. But, with today's 10% ethanol perhaps all adjustments need to be slightly richer.
Your BBD is different, not the "solid fuel" design of 1970's, but rather "air bleed" of 1960's. Your's doesn't have the removable "tin top" of this one. The metering rod assembly is also much different. You can find a Carter manual linked online which covers both types. I don't recall your metering rods can be adjusted, only float level and accel pump linkage.
Thank you sir. Back in the 80's I never did anything with a BBD except throw them away. Always had to make room for a Thermoquad. Now that I simply wanted a good daily driver (84 D 150, 318/727) my notes on TQ's didn't help. The carb I'm using is a 74 and my only deviation from your guide was between 1/32 and 1/16 of a gap in the needle setting to give a little more fuel to compensate for the stupid corn juice in our gas.
Mike, I thought I would share this since I haven't seen anything about it anywhere.
I have a 79 AMC Concord, 258 inline 6, BBD carb. I have been having problems getting it to cold start, idle smooth, running too rich, etc.
I followed all the stuff from the rebuild kit sheet and Chiltons.
Finally, I located an obscure paragraph in Chiltons, in the general tune up section.
An object labeled "Solenoid". Always on and holds the idle at a set minimum. The curb idle screw does nothing when the solenoid is energized.
*** The curb idle on a 1979 BBD is adjusted with the Idle Mixture screws, not the curb idle screw.
*** The curb idle only stops the throttle plates from jamming in the bores.
It was obscurely labeled as an "Anti-dieseling" solenoid somewhere I saw.
According to Chilton, on the YF, BBD, Motorcraft carbs for 1979 this solenoid is supposed to be adjustable.
It is not on the 79. Emissions, no doubt. The EGR port at the back of the carb is gone and re-routed to a coolant temp switch and other junk that don't and are unobtainable.
I thought I would share this weirdness.
AMC, gotta love 'em.
Hi Mike, I have a 1973 Dodge B100 Van with the 318 (all original)...I thought I was looking at a BBD Carter but it turns out it's a Holley 2800 (the big 'Holley' cast into casting gave it away)... If I want to swap it for a Carter BBD is it a straight swap or are there modifications needed? Any advice appreciated as you obviously know what you're doing with these carbs... Thanks.
From what I've read, it seems your accel pump adjustment was wrong. The 0.5" dimension should be from the top of the pump shaft to the top of the bowl surface. The Carter manual terms "to float bowl cover", which should be "dust cover" for these 1970's "solid fuel" type ("tin top"). With that set in mine (as found, no adjustment needed), I measure 0.618" to the bottom of the float bowl (raised round plateau around accel shaft) which is the measurement you make. So, yours will be giving too rich of an accel shot, perhaps giving a puff of smoke or even a stumble when you quickly push the accelerator. But, with today's 10% ethanol perhaps all adjustments need to be slightly richer.
could do video on holley 3310-1 if you have time, probably the best holley
I have a 1965 Plymouth valiant. Has a Carter bbd i could really use some help.
Your BBD is different, not the "solid fuel" design of 1970's, but rather "air bleed" of 1960's. Your's doesn't have the removable "tin top" of this one. The metering rod assembly is also much different. You can find a Carter manual linked online which covers both types. I don't recall your metering rods can be adjusted, only float level and accel pump linkage.
Where do I buy parts
www.carburetor-parts.com/bbd-carburetor-parts