Its all about the curve, whether your on it, learning about being on it or learning about how to control a fluid through it. Its a curve one way or another! One of these curves never ends
Now i Finally understand stacks, this video will give me the confidence to go beyond forkseal and oil changes, "off course i have to watch it a few more times and take notes before i do it on my own bikes :) "Thank's Dave's"
Glad you feel that you can now go a little deeper into the topic and start testing different configurations. Remember that the clamp shim is the quickest and easiest to do.
Hi Dave , thank you for your content , I’m about to fit a piston kit and springs to my 2008 cbr 600rr track days only bike … my question is should I leave the donut on or are the forks better with it off ?
The doughnut stops the compression and rebound piston colliding with each other. Your call on retention as it will give you an extra 1/8th of an inch of travel.
@@catalystreactionsbw thank you for your response… I suppose it’s not worth the risk if it’s only 1/8 of an inch .. doesn’t seem like much of a gain ..
Love the Video - but another question is how does the adjusters work for compression and rebound damping? Also if the bike comes with progressive springs would original valving work for linear spring ?(from video assumption can be that it should be re valved to accommodate difference in amount of rebound force at the start of the return stroke :-) - (rebound too slow at this stage of the stroke?) Thank You
Compression and rebound adjusters are dynamic by modulating flow via separate circuits so look at them as independent systems. Stock valving is generally set based on the spring installed (progressive), so with linear springs, rebound and compression are much more easily set. If you go up or down in spring rate, assess where you are in the total range available and that will guide you to the nature of a possible revalve.
The doughnut on the rod stops that happening and creates a gap between pistons. If that or other device on the rebound rod is removed, you cannot stop the collision happening so you add preload and compression to reduce travel used for safety to attempt to avoid parts hitting each other.
is re-valve & new springs recommended or possible on ;) Sewing machine-like KTM DUKE 390 first model? or complete drop-in Cartridge is the only way to go?
Depends on your ability and use. If this is for the road, springs and oil for the front can make a profound different as and just a rear shock spring. Start there. Same would apply for a Novice track rider. At intermediate track you would need Andreanni etc for the fornt and a shock.
Ive just wasted 10 minutes subscribing and signing up to see 'the full video' but all i get is tossed around with the trailer. Theres no 'delete membership' either but ill unsub now.
@streamlines I cannot see you comments here so I cannot reply. If you sent an email, please resend to dave@davemosstuning.com
Its all about the curve, whether your on it, learning about being on it or learning about how to control a fluid through it. Its a curve one way or another!
One of these curves never ends
Now i Finally understand stacks, this video will give me the confidence to go beyond forkseal and oil changes, "off course i have to watch it a few more times and take notes before i do it on my own bikes :) "Thank's Dave's"
Glad you feel that you can now go a little deeper into the topic and start testing different configurations. Remember that the clamp shim is the quickest and easiest to do.
@@catalystreactionsbw i'll read up on clamp shim :)
Hi Dave , thank you for your content , I’m about to fit a piston kit and springs to my 2008 cbr 600rr track days only bike … my question is should I leave the donut on or are the forks better with it off ?
The doughnut stops the compression and rebound piston colliding with each other. Your call on retention as it will give you an extra 1/8th of an inch of travel.
@@catalystreactionsbw thank you for your response… I suppose it’s not worth the risk if it’s only 1/8 of an inch .. doesn’t seem like much of a gain ..
Love the Video - but another question is how does the adjusters work for compression and rebound damping? Also if the bike comes with progressive springs would original valving work for linear spring ?(from video assumption can be that it should be re valved to accommodate difference in amount of rebound force at the start of the return stroke :-) - (rebound too slow at this stage of the stroke?)
Thank You
Compression and rebound adjusters are dynamic by modulating flow via separate circuits so look at them as independent systems. Stock valving is generally set based on the spring installed (progressive), so with linear springs, rebound and compression are much more easily set. If you go up or down in spring rate, assess where you are in the total range available and that will guide you to the nature of a possible revalve.
Hi Dave,what do you do to avoid a collision pistons with each other?
The doughnut on the rod stops that happening and creates a gap between pistons. If that or other device on the rebound rod is removed, you cannot stop the collision happening so you add preload and compression to reduce travel used for safety to attempt to avoid parts hitting each other.
is re-valve & new springs recommended or possible on ;) Sewing machine-like KTM DUKE 390 first model?
or
complete drop-in Cartridge is the only way to go?
Depends on your ability and use. If this is for the road, springs and oil for the front can make a profound different as and just a rear shock spring. Start there. Same would apply for a Novice track rider. At intermediate track you would need Andreanni etc for the fornt and a shock.
but how do i get the damping rod OUT of there to get to the valves!! please someone help!
If there is a doughnut on the rebound rod - that has to be removed and you need a special vice holding tool from Race Tech to get hold the rod.
Thanks Dave!
Ive just wasted 10 minutes subscribing and signing up to see 'the full video' but all i get is tossed around with the trailer. Theres no 'delete membership' either but ill unsub now.