I wanted to thank you very much for your informative video.I am going to replace a pressure relief valve for the first time at age 63.I,ve rebuilt inline air cooled 6 cylinder Hondas,gold wings and a few small block V-8s and I find soldering and plumbing to be a little intimidating but thanks to you,no more.The way that you handled the criticism of your work says a great deal about you and your upbringing which seems to be missing with many of todays youth!Thank Again and thanks for the video.
I'm about to do the same thing I'm only 47 and have a ton of plumbing. It's all been PEX! I wwnr to change my prf valve on my boiler, and when I was removing it, cracked 2 soldered fittings so here I am. Off to attack tonight. I was fairly certain I had the general concept down it's just nice to get the reassurance of a professional on UA-cam
I'm getting ready to cap off copper water pipes to the bathroom (DIYer first time). The guy at home depot gave me a Bernzomatic Propane Torch. Glad I got the Propane, hoping it will prevent overheating. Also, your instruction to wipe off the excess flux BEFORE soldering is excellent (I don't have to worry about excess flux corroding and eating a hole in the pipe later).
I have found, applying the heat to the middle of the fitting and NOT directly at the joint or NOT directly on the pipe is the most affective way to heat it. This way, the solder is pulled into the fitting where most of the heat is. Also, I have found my biggest mistake in the past was, over heating the joint. This will cook off the flux. No flux and the solder will not take to the copper.
Note, its important to buff the fitting inside also, not just the pipe. An inexpensive wire brush tool will do both the inside of fitting and outside of pipe. Very easy, and very handy.
Not really that important unless it's an old/dirty fitting. Flux is acidic and is there to not only allow the solder to flow, but remove oxidisation. It's the same as applying flux to the fitting AND the pipe - it's really not needed. If the fitting is loose enough that simply mounting the fitting won't evenly spread the flux between the two surfaces...you're not going to be able to solder them together ayway.
@@allergyahead8128 The inside of the pipe needs to be deburred else you will get leaks down the road. The burr causes water turbulence which eats away at the copper near the joint where the burr resides.
Yeah worked with plumbing company as helper / laborer picked up a few things . Yeah they described it as you exactly described it - apply heat ( preferably with mapp gas ) at one point only ( copper is most excellent conductor of heat ) and let solder be ' sucked ' in . But one thing they did differently , they write it ( go around the pipe ) with it . But yours look perfect .
I was taught to always solder all sides of a fitting at the same time. I believe the reasoning was if you come back later and heat the remaining hub up it will draw the solder out of the other sides. I guess it’s possible you just did two because you didn’t need all three for the demonstration but it might set a bad example.
Excellent description, good visuals, great speed (not to slow to bore, not too fast to lose the Homer Simpsons), easily understandable. Thanks for the video, thank you for not shouting, and thank you for pronouncing "solder" properly.
I felt like me and another person were in a room with you and you just kept looking at the other person the whole time. But for real, good video, good information, I appreciate the good tips.
Wow thank you so much.i never done this type of work,but as home owner i need to learn tis stuff.it simple video to the point ,easy to understand. Thank you so much.
Really helpful. Most other videos don't show up close and the sound effects. I have been trying to fix a leak for weeks. Turns out I wasn't getting it hot enough. Solder wasn't melting.. I have read many stuff online about how long to apply heat. 5 seconds, 15 seconds, 30 seconds yet they don't even say which torch type to use. internet sure is full of alot of misinformation. lol
Always ream the ends of your pipe. Never put flux inside the fitting. Put it on the pipe only. If you put it on the inside of the fitting and on the pipe you’ll be pushing flux with the end of the pipe into the interior of the fitting which will lead to enhanced corrosion and flux having to be flushed out of the system.
I'm glad that annoyed someone else. He also drowned the joints with soLder. Irksome. Although I was taught to soLder by a clockmaker. There's no room for sloppy ugly amateur joins when they're visible in the finished product. That flash of silver is what you're looking for. But I suppose you can't expect someone who cannot say the word soLder to know how to soLder very well if they think there's such a thing as a silent L in the English language. :)
I was a little surprised that he didn’t ream the pipes. I also never put flux in the fittings. I can’t really criticize his soldering ability since I’ve seen “professional” plumbers do much worse on UA-cam and I doubt I could do much better.
I C Just did a water heater connection this past weekend Dec. 22, 2019 I steel wooled the pipe and inside of the fitting. Then wiped with paint thinner put Flux on pipe and inside fitting, slid to together. And soldered like in the video. As in the video, never have water present at the solder area. I assembled the job, and checked for leaks. No leaks. What they are now doing at Water Heaters is using a hose with a nut that threads onto the nipple of the water heater then into a Plex Fitting that slips into the 1/2 inch copper pipe. Can get save hose for 3/4 inch copper pipe too.
@I C He didn't make it clear. He meant, After you flux and then connect the pipe to the fitting, then use a rag with paint thinner to wipe off the excess flux. The pipe leading up to the fitting would get a film of paint thinner on it, and the solder would not stick to or run to it, giving you a cleaner joint.
And also best way to know when your pipe is hot enough watch your flame color watch for the greening of the flame and you know it's hot enough but still all in all great informal video
Experienced plumber myself and work for a very large reputable company in the Indianapolis area and I just want to say YOU CAN solder with excess water in the lines. Its tricky and a pain in the ass but it can be done
Nice video and very informative, but one thing I noticed he didn’t do is he didn’t deburr the pipe. The burrs will affect the flow of the water and will cause turbulence in the flow, and wind noise.
It’s good practice to solder all sides at the same time. If you don’t when you reheat the fitting you can draw solder from the other joints and cause a leak. The only possible exception is when you’re soldering larger diameter pipe like 2” and up. Also, there’s two schools of thought with cooling with water. Some say don’t do it at all. I was taught that you need to let the solder solidify on its own then you can use a rag to help it the rest of the way. I haven’t had any problems doing that yet.
@@TileCoach I strongly disagree. Jobs require permits, permits require professionals. A tile guy busy doing plumbing scares me incredibly. And I'm not trying to say you can't solder a joint, clearly from the video it's not that difficult. There is a bit more involved as I'm sure you are aware.
Don't forget to wipe off the joints while still hot due to left over corrosive solder paste. I've had joints that corroded in a year and should not have leaked because the pipe/joints were cleaned and I was using 95/5 with map gas and the flow of the solder was text book.
Pretty good video! But I never leave a hub open! And I always use acetylene for soldering ! I heard that MAPP gas is dirty !? I'm not 100% sure about that!? and I always run the solder all the way around the joint, that's just the way I was taught and then a dry rag wiped around the still liquid solder to make it look nice! Lastly I use a mirror and flashlight to check around the back side of the Joint to make sure solder went all the way around! Thanks for the video we can all learn something from each other ! PS I've been doing Plumbing for 32 years ! 🇺🇸
Your video was very entertaining and I learned a lot in a very short. Of time I hope you continue to make videos like this to help amateur dies out like me who are learning how to solder who haven't done it in a while good luck to you keep those videos rolling.....mike.
Flux helps lift impurities from the surface and heat causes air to leave the joint creating a slight vacuum which draws solder in; this is called capillary effect.
You should always solder all sides of a fitting. The heat will transfer to other sockets if you try to solder the em individually. May not cause a leak but it's isn't a great idea. Heating the base of the socket will draw the solder to the that part of the joint. Just my 2 cents from a 30 year plumber.
any steam ,causes the solder to boil,and bubble,not sure if it's not hot enough,it just cant have water or steam,love the videos,I keep a wet cloth to cool and a dry one to wipe excess solder,
A tip with end feed fittings, try not to put too much heat on them or the flux with evaporate and solder wont run 👍. If you have a small hole just add some flux to the joint and heat it and it should run all the way round without adding more solder.
3 thing. It's called a water heater. You don't heat hot water. When sweating copper, start off heating the pipe right next to the fitting on the side your sweating, and move the flame around the fitting as to apply equal heat on either side. (On just the side you are sweating!, repeat the step for each side), and remove heat when solder starts feeding. Apply more heat when necessary, you can burn up a fitting leaving it on one spot for too long, leaving a weak joint and fitting. He's obviously not a lisenced plumber
Isaac, you should never heat just one side of the pipe while soldering, although some people do with no major issues on smaller pipe. You should also start the solder on the bottom of the connection and work your way up one side, then the other and finish with the top. Although on smaller pipes, this is not as much of an issue, but if you practice this with all your solder joints then even 6 inch copper is no problem. And if anyone says a professional would only use a b-tank with acetylene and a "turbo-torch" (which is the preferred brand where I am), then they are fools There is no reason to drag a torch like that for a minor repair. The mapp gas or propane torch is fine for that. For the average home owner there is also no need for such a torch as they are quite expensive. A simple way to stop the flow of water if you are soldering on a valve or threaded adapter is a tool called a dutch finger or jet-sweat. It has a rubber "plug" on one end and as you tighten the shaft the rubber expands and shuts off the flow of water while you solder.
You don’t need to add solder inside the fitting, if you apply too much inside then when you push your copper in it will push all the flux inside the fitting, if you have an excess amount it could lead to contaminating the water
Isaac. My man. You need to deburr the cuts. It can and will cause turbulence in the line and can cause pin hole leaks in the pipes. The turbulence causes minerals in the water to constantly rub the pipe in the same spot and will wear holes in it. I know it seems like it can't happen but it does.
If your have an issue with pinholes in your copper pipe it's more likely caused by acidic water then burs. Granted I don't get burs on my cuts but I've also been doing this for a long time I use good cutters with a good wheel and I don't force it but I never debur anything and I've never had an issue with noisy pipes or pinholes and as a matter of fact my house I plumbed in myself 26 years ago in copper and I've not had one leak. I know they teach that and everyone says it but hardly any actually do it. Unless your really romping down on the cutters you shouldn't have a problem. Maybe if you're using homedopt or Lowe's cutters but no professional would be caught dead using them lol.
@@my2centz196 What tubing cutter do you use? How is it not producing burrs or more likely a lip that restricts flow. Last time i checked my local plumbing store sells the same cutters that home depot and lowes sells.
@@travisk5589 my favorite cutters are my imperials I've had for ages, I also have some original autocuts but I haven't used them in I don't even know how long I prefer Milwaukees brand of auto cuts and of course I use ridged. I guess I would say experience is why I don't have burs and good tool maintenance. I've been doing this for a while and I've never had an issue like you speak of and I can assure you I've probably ran enough copper pipe to circle the globe a few times over and I've never had any pinholes. I Mena how long does it take for these pinholes to appear 30-40 years? The life of the copper isn't guaranteed but 10 to 20 years and my jobs have exceeded this without fail so I must be doing something right lol. I'm sure you're a firm believer you've probably been taught that and stuck with it and that's fine but when I was younger I did a lot of production work mostly townhouses and housing projects where time was critical as time always is and it was only the fastest who kept their jobs and even today the faster you are the more money you make so I don't do things I find unnecessary. To each their own and if you have time more power to you but if you're have a big problem with pinholes I'd check your technique or your tools.
@@travisk5589 I'm saying I've been using these cutters for many years and except in a few occasions I haven't had to. Don't get me wrong of course I've made cuts in stubborn places and I've had a few times I've romped down on the cutters a little to hard and I've had to but for the most part no. I think the only time I've ever had an issue is doing service repair work in hard to reach places. Especially in a hurry but doing new or remodel work typically don't have any issues. I've never used Lowe's or home depot brand cutters and I'm not knocking them I just never owned any. I'm pretty picky about my tools. That's not to say I don't own any tools from Lowe's or home depot I love both of those stores but I use my cutters everyday and I figure it's cheaper to buy the good stuff because it usually performs and last longer.
When I first started plumbing I used to flux the crap out of everything, but all you really have to do is get it really clean, ream the ends and just lightly flux the male end, you ever see all those green joints in some houses it was someone using to much flux and not cleaning it (your tile work is nice though )
When working in walls I always had my 2gal weed sprayer with fine mist of water spray adjust have yet to burn anything down in 45 years.. and my other job for 31 years was as a City Firefighter.. HA.
Isaac its best using a dry rag, never a wet rag. Overall good joint. I use b tank does a fast job .just like you I do a ton of plumbing. Has for water in line they make a brass couple with a removable cap to let out steam,so the solder well take. Keep up great videos. T still do not know how you guys have time to do videos,and do tile work.
I find baby wipes are hands down the best way to get the flux off the pipe. Although at home or for friends I'm not on the clock so I have more time to make it look pretty and let it cool slowly first so I could understand a pro going with a dry rag before the flux gets too solid.
@@snoodle877 yeah, you don't want any demountable joints under a concrete floor if it won't be accessable. Under a timber floor isn't so bad. But the point was it wasn't a neat solder joint you would want to be seen. He put way too much solder on so there was "snot" underneath and overflow on top. Both can be neatened up afterward with a bit of flux and wire wool, but if you're showing people how to solder, do it neatly to begin with.
I don't want to nit-pick but all three pipes should be in the Tee, and all soldered at the same time. if you try to solder the third at a later point, you could run the solder back out of the first two. I am sure you are aware of this but some DIY guys might not realise. Best wishes from the UK Isaac
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos, extremely helpful. Can you or anyone with experience tell me does map gas make a big difference in heating time, I soldered some 3/4' joints (newbie) and though propane works I feel it took longer than I expected to heat. I have more to do and want to do it as efficiently as possible.
first mistake, you always solder all end. never leave a T with one end un-solder, even if it means you leave it with a tail solder in (short little pipe) when you come back later to finish the soldering the unsoldered end, when you heat up the T. the solder ends may crack ,and because its all ready soldered ,no FLUX in the joints, really hard to fix.
This is the BEST "how to solder copper pipes" video on UA-cam................bar none.
I wanted to thank you very much for your informative video.I am going to replace a pressure relief valve for the first time at age 63.I,ve rebuilt inline air cooled 6 cylinder Hondas,gold wings and a few small block V-8s and I find soldering and plumbing to be a little intimidating but thanks to you,no more.The way that you handled the criticism of your work says a great deal about you and your upbringing which seems to be missing with many of todays youth!Thank Again and thanks for the video.
I'm about to do the same thing I'm only 47 and have a ton of plumbing. It's all been PEX! I wwnr to change my prf valve on my boiler, and when I was removing it, cracked 2 soldered fittings so here I am. Off to attack tonight. I was fairly certain I had the general concept down it's just nice to get the reassurance of a professional on UA-cam
Thank you for not editing out the time you spent heating the pipe! Very helpful.
Thanks for teaching me how to solder correctly! Just replaced my water heater.
I'm getting ready to cap off copper water pipes to the bathroom (DIYer first time). The guy at home depot gave me a Bernzomatic Propane Torch. Glad I got the Propane, hoping it will prevent overheating. Also, your instruction to wipe off the excess flux BEFORE soldering is excellent (I don't have to worry about excess flux corroding and eating a hole in the pipe later).
this dude acts like a true pro
I have found, applying the heat to the middle of the fitting and NOT directly at the joint or NOT directly on the pipe is the most affective way to heat it. This way, the solder is pulled into the fitting where most of the heat is. Also, I have found my biggest mistake in the past was, over heating the joint. This will cook off the flux. No flux and the solder will not take to the copper.
what type of torch did you use?
Note, its important to buff the fitting inside also, not just the pipe. An inexpensive wire brush tool will do both the inside of fitting and outside of pipe. Very easy, and very handy.
Not really that important unless it's an old/dirty fitting. Flux is acidic and is there to not only allow the solder to flow, but remove oxidisation.
It's the same as applying flux to the fitting AND the pipe - it's really not needed. If the fitting is loose enough that simply mounting the fitting won't evenly spread the flux between the two surfaces...you're not going to be able to solder them together ayway.
Thanks I noticed he just did the outside. That was my question.
@@allergyahead8128
The inside of the pipe needs to be deburred else you will get leaks down the road. The burr causes water turbulence which eats away at the copper near the joint where the burr resides.
Yeah worked with plumbing company as helper / laborer picked up a few things . Yeah they described it as you exactly described it - apply heat ( preferably with mapp gas ) at one point only ( copper is most excellent conductor of heat ) and let solder be ' sucked ' in . But one thing they did differently , they write it ( go around the pipe ) with it . But yours look perfect .
I was taught to always solder all sides of a fitting at the same time. I believe the reasoning was if you come back later and heat the remaining hub up it will draw the solder out of the other sides. I guess it’s possible you just did two because you didn’t need all three for the demonstration but it might set a bad example.
It's true, his technique is not great.
Thanks man. I just started as an apprentice. This is super helpful.
Hey man, how’s your apprenticeship going?
Thank you very informative straight to the point. Proper heat keeps it neat and dry.
Excellent description, good visuals, great speed (not to slow to bore, not too fast to lose the Homer Simpsons), easily understandable. Thanks for the video, thank you for not shouting, and thank you for pronouncing "solder" properly.
Thanks! Very helpful! I just did some 1/2 pipe and joints for my tub and shower. This video was very helpful.
I felt like me and another person were in a room with you and you just kept looking at the other person the whole time. But for real, good video, good information, I appreciate the good tips.
wow you are the best Coach I have ever seen good job man and glad to follow
Wow thank you so much.i never done this type of work,but as home owner i need to learn tis stuff.it simple video to the point ,easy to understand.
Thank you so much.
Increase your fire insurance first.
Really helpful. Most other videos don't show up close and the sound effects. I have been trying to fix a leak for weeks. Turns out I wasn't getting it hot enough. Solder wasn't melting.. I have read many stuff online about how long to apply heat. 5 seconds, 15 seconds, 30 seconds yet they don't even say which torch type to use. internet sure is full of alot of misinformation. lol
Always ream the ends of your pipe. Never put flux inside the fitting. Put it on the pipe only. If you put it on the inside of the fitting and on the pipe you’ll be pushing flux with the end of the pipe into the interior of the fitting which will lead to enhanced corrosion and flux having to be flushed out of the system.
I'm glad that annoyed someone else. He also drowned the joints with soLder. Irksome. Although I was taught to soLder by a clockmaker. There's no room for sloppy ugly amateur joins when they're visible in the finished product. That flash of silver is what you're looking for. But I suppose you can't expect someone who cannot say the word soLder to know how to soLder very well if they think there's such a thing as a silent L in the English language. :)
I was a little surprised that he didn’t ream the pipes. I also never put flux in the fittings. I can’t really criticize his soldering ability since I’ve seen “professional” plumbers do much worse on UA-cam and I doubt I could do much better.
I C
Just did a water heater connection this past weekend Dec. 22, 2019
I steel wooled the pipe and inside of the fitting. Then wiped with paint thinner put Flux on pipe and inside fitting, slid to together. And soldered like in the video.
As in the video, never have water present at the solder area.
I assembled the job, and checked for leaks. No leaks.
What they are now doing at Water Heaters is using a hose with a nut that threads onto the nipple of the water heater then into a Plex Fitting that slips into the 1/2 inch copper pipe. Can get save hose for 3/4 inch copper pipe too.
@@bashpr0mpt244 Cam down. When you soder a haf inch copper pipe, you shoud cauk the pipe with flux, then heat the joint.
@I C He didn't make it clear. He meant, After you flux and then connect the pipe to the fitting, then use a rag with paint thinner to wipe off the excess flux. The pipe leading up to the fitting would get a film of paint thinner on it, and the solder would not stick to or run to it, giving you a cleaner joint.
This is the best solder video on here..
you makes it look so simple, now I have more confidence doing it. Thank you
@charles hedberg Soldering is for electronics, rosin core solder. Sweating for copper tube, using lead-free solder nowadays.
Great video. Now I know why I had such a hard time replacing outdoor hose bib last year. Bread idea is good too. Thanks
is it literally bread? like the bread you eat? isn't that a problem for your pipes later?
man love the video. had a old solder fail and im doing it myself. thanks for the help.
Great tips! Hopefully now I'll look like I know what I'm doing when I'm working with my employer.
Underrated comment 👍
Good luck and they'll show you their preferred method.
Thanks bro, I used your technique and carried out a whole boiler installation and central heating wow! splendid, who needs plumbers! not me.
Pretty much everyone else that does not DIY. About 99% of the population.
A very helpfull video and the instructer takes comments and constructive criticism well . We are all here to learn .
And also best way to know when your pipe is hot enough watch your flame color watch for the greening of the flame and you know it's hot enough but still all in all great informal video
Great video thanks for sharing 😊❤️many blessings your way greetings from El Paso Tx Gbu always ❤️🌹
Thanks for the information. Will be putting in a new toilet valve tonight!
He left a lot necessary steps out!
Experienced plumber myself and work for a very large reputable company in the Indianapolis area and I just want to say YOU CAN solder with excess water in the lines. Its tricky and a pain in the ass but it can be done
How?
24 years, and you are correct sir
Absolutely
Nice video and very informative, but one thing I noticed he didn’t do is he didn’t deburr the pipe. The burrs will affect the flow of the water and will cause turbulence in the flow, and wind noise.
yeah that's what most poorly installed copper is missing. Oh well keeps us service plumbers working forever.
It’s a great video, very informative! Thank you.
It’s good practice to solder all sides at the same time. If you don’t when you reheat the fitting you can draw solder from the other joints and cause a leak. The only possible exception is when you’re soldering larger diameter pipe like 2” and up. Also, there’s two schools of thought with cooling with water. Some say don’t do it at all. I was taught that you need to let the solder solidify on its own then you can use a rag to help it the rest of the way. I haven’t had any problems doing that yet.
Good stuff, funny what we wind up doing as a tile man. Re plumbed 130’ for a bathroom last week.
@@TileCoach I strongly disagree. Jobs require permits, permits require professionals. A tile guy busy doing plumbing scares me incredibly. And I'm not trying to say you can't solder a joint, clearly from the video it's not that difficult. There is a bit more involved as I'm sure you are aware.
👍 great job on explaining & hands on!
Thanks for the video your a clear teacher
Great tips I really enjoyed it and got a lot out of it thanks
Good job,watching from Philippines...
Nicely done, well explained. Thank you.
My shower has started leaking I hope I can fix it... Thank you for your video!
Just the facts. Perfect. Thank you.
Don't forget to wipe off the joints while still hot due to left over corrosive solder paste. I've had joints that corroded in a year and should not have leaked because the pipe/joints were cleaned and I was using 95/5 with map gas and the flow of the solder was text book.
Clean the excess solder flux off the pipe BEFORE soldering.
thanks for this
everything was well explained
Pretty good video! But I never leave a hub open! And I always use acetylene for soldering ! I heard that MAPP gas is dirty !? I'm not 100% sure about that!? and I always run the solder all the way around the joint, that's just the way I was taught and then a dry rag wiped around the still liquid solder to make it look nice! Lastly I use a mirror and flashlight to check around the back side of the Joint to make sure solder went all the way around! Thanks for the video we can all learn something from each other ! PS I've been doing Plumbing for 32 years ! 🇺🇸
Been doing it for 3 months hit and miss so much watch dozen videos and I can’t get it right was hired as maintenance turns out I’m a plumber
Thanks Isaac, your video explaining the issues as well as the advice/tips helped improve my knowledge on soldering. Liked.
Great video
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Your video was very entertaining and I learned a lot in a very short. Of time I hope you continue to make videos like this to help amateur dies out like me who are learning how to solder who haven't done it in a while good luck to you keep those videos rolling.....mike.
Flux helps lift impurities from the surface and heat causes air to leave the joint creating a slight vacuum which draws solder in; this is called capillary effect.
Really good video with a lot of expert tips in it. Thanks Isaac.
Thanks Man ! Great Stuff !!!
You should always solder all sides of a fitting. The heat will transfer to other sockets if you try to solder the em individually. May not cause a leak but it's isn't a great idea. Heating the base of the socket will draw the solder to the that part of the joint. Just my 2 cents from a 30 year plumber.
good ... solder drew in nicely
Thanks for your lovely way of explaining.... great help for beginner
any steam ,causes the solder to boil,and bubble,not sure if it's not hot enough,it just cant have water or steam,love the videos,I keep a wet cloth to cool and a dry one to wipe excess solder,
Hey...... THANKS SO MUCH FOR MAKING VIDEO.... GOD BLESS YOU!!!!!
In 2008, true MAPP gas production ended in North America. They kept the name and yellow cylinder for marketing. It's the same as the blue propane now.
Great video. Thanks for the clear instruction.
Awesome information sir!
Thanks man you helped me out man.
Thanks for the video Issac.
So clean...thanks my friend
Thanks, this was helpful.
Good job, you do it the way ,I do it. Although, in tight areas, I overload the solder, don't like come backs. Great vid.
Great video thank you Isaac!!👍🏽
Very well done. Thanks
A tip with end feed fittings, try not to put too much heat on them or the flux with evaporate and solder wont run 👍. If you have a small hole just add some flux to the joint and heat it and it should run all the way round without adding more solder.
3 thing. It's called a water heater. You don't heat hot water. When sweating copper, start off heating the pipe right next to the fitting on the side your sweating, and move the flame around the fitting as to apply equal heat on either side. (On just the side you are sweating!, repeat the step for each side), and remove heat when solder starts feeding. Apply more heat when necessary, you can burn up a fitting leaving it on one spot for too long, leaving a weak joint and fitting. He's obviously not a lisenced plumber
Isaac, you should never heat just one side of the pipe while soldering, although some people do with no major issues on smaller pipe. You should also start the solder on the bottom of the connection and work your way up one side, then the other and finish with the top. Although on smaller pipes, this is not as much of an issue, but if you practice this with all your solder joints then even 6 inch copper is no problem. And if anyone says a professional would only use a b-tank with acetylene and a "turbo-torch" (which is the preferred brand where I am), then they are fools There is no reason to drag a torch like that for a minor repair. The mapp gas or propane torch is fine for that. For the average home owner there is also no need for such a torch as they are quite expensive. A simple way to stop the flow of water if you are soldering on a valve or threaded adapter is a tool called a dutch finger or jet-sweat. It has a rubber "plug" on one end and as you tighten the shaft the rubber expands and shuts off the flow of water while you solder.
Great tutorial 👍🏻
You don’t need to add solder inside the fitting, if you apply too much inside then when you push your copper in it will push all the flux inside the fitting, if you have an excess amount it could lead to contaminating the water
Thorough, clear and easy to follow instruction. Thanks so much !
Nice video thanks for showing never soldered in my life
Thanks for the help
Isaac. My man. You need to deburr the cuts. It can and will cause turbulence in the line and can cause pin hole leaks in the pipes. The turbulence causes minerals in the water to constantly rub the pipe in the same spot and will wear holes in it.
I know it seems like it can't happen but it does.
If your have an issue with pinholes in your copper pipe it's more likely caused by acidic water then burs. Granted I don't get burs on my cuts but I've also been doing this for a long time I use good cutters with a good wheel and I don't force it but I never debur anything and I've never had an issue with noisy pipes or pinholes and as a matter of fact my house I plumbed in myself 26 years ago in copper and I've not had one leak. I know they teach that and everyone says it but hardly any actually do it. Unless your really romping down on the cutters you shouldn't have a problem. Maybe if you're using homedopt or Lowe's cutters but no professional would be caught dead using them lol.
@@my2centz196 What tubing cutter do you use? How is it not producing burrs or more likely a lip that restricts flow. Last time i checked my local plumbing store sells the same cutters that home depot and lowes sells.
@@travisk5589 my favorite cutters are my imperials I've had for ages, I also have some original autocuts but I haven't used them in I don't even know how long I prefer Milwaukees brand of auto cuts and of course I use ridged. I guess I would say experience is why I don't have burs and good tool maintenance. I've been doing this for a while and I've never had an issue like you speak of and I can assure you I've probably ran enough copper pipe to circle the globe a few times over and I've never had any pinholes. I Mena how long does it take for these pinholes to appear 30-40 years? The life of the copper isn't guaranteed but 10 to 20 years and my jobs have exceeded this without fail so I must be doing something right lol. I'm sure you're a firm believer you've probably been taught that and stuck with it and that's fine but when I was younger I did a lot of production work mostly townhouses and housing projects where time was critical as time always is and it was only the fastest who kept their jobs and even today the faster you are the more money you make so I don't do things I find unnecessary. To each their own and if you have time more power to you but if you're have a big problem with pinholes I'd check your technique or your tools.
@@my2centz196 And you are saying that you do not need to deburr when using these cutters?
@@travisk5589 I'm saying I've been using these cutters for many years and except in a few occasions I haven't had to. Don't get me wrong of course I've made cuts in stubborn places and I've had a few times I've romped down on the cutters a little to hard and I've had to but for the most part no. I think the only time I've ever had an issue is doing service repair work in hard to reach places. Especially in a hurry but doing new or remodel work typically don't have any issues. I've never used Lowe's or home depot brand cutters and I'm not knocking them I just never owned any. I'm pretty picky about my tools. That's not to say I don't own any tools from Lowe's or home depot I love both of those stores but I use my cutters everyday and I figure it's cheaper to buy the good stuff because it usually performs and last longer.
I try to keep the flame out of the joint tends to introduce soot,
Very nice man cool connection
Great job!
nice demo and explanation.
Move your flame around the pipe. Even heating is crucial for the solder to fill the cup completely. (Becomes more crucial as the pipe size increases)
Excellent video... thanks for sharing
Nice vid!
Thank you brother that helps a lot peace
Isaac thank you for. Good video
When I first started plumbing I used to flux the crap out of everything, but all you really have to do is get it really clean, ream the ends and just lightly flux the male end, you ever see all those green joints in some houses it was someone using to much flux and not cleaning it (your tile work is nice though )
Joseph Healey *too much
When working in walls I always had my 2gal weed sprayer with fine mist of water spray adjust have yet to burn anything down in 45 years.. and my other job for 31 years was as a City Firefighter.. HA.
Isaac its best using a dry rag, never a wet rag. Overall good joint. I use b tank does a fast job .just like you I do a ton of plumbing. Has for water in line they make a brass couple with a removable cap to let out steam,so the solder well take. Keep up great videos. T still do not know how you guys have time to do videos,and do tile work.
I find baby wipes are hands down the best way to get the flux off the pipe. Although at home or for friends I'm not on the clock so I have more time to make it look pretty and let it cool slowly first so I could understand a pro going with a dry rag before the flux gets too solid.
Always use lead-free solder when working with water pipes.
That first joint...."that's a good joint" - I think the phrase you were looking for was "that's an underfloor joint"
So all joints under floor, like concrete, should only be copper only, no PEX?
@@snoodle877 yeah, you don't want any demountable joints under a concrete floor if it won't be accessable. Under a timber floor isn't so bad.
But the point was it wasn't a neat solder joint you would want to be seen. He put way too much solder on so there was "snot" underneath and overflow on top. Both can be neatened up afterward with a bit of flux and wire wool, but if you're showing people how to solder, do it neatly to begin with.
I don't want to nit-pick but all three pipes should be in the Tee, and all soldered at the same time. if you try to solder the third at a later point, you could run the solder back out of the first two. I am sure you are aware of this but some DIY guys might not realise. Best wishes from the UK Isaac
Video well done! Thank you for your knowledge! 👍👍👍😎🇨🇱
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos, extremely helpful. Can you or anyone with experience tell me does map gas make a big difference in heating time, I soldered some 3/4' joints (newbie) and though propane works I feel it took longer than I expected to heat. I have more to do and want to do it as efficiently as possible.
I notice a big difference in the reduction in time it takes for the pipe to be hot enough for the solder to start to melt with MAPP gas.
@@dw424 Thank you that's good to know. Right tool for the right job 👍🏼
I still use my "B" tank of propane, and an igniter, no cigarette lighter.
Great video. Thank you.
learned a lot , thanks !
I’m on vacation and my son told me I have a water leak at a pipe by the hot water tank so I’m on my way home thanks for the video
Thanks so much!!!!!!
Great video thanks
Thank you for sharing this video. It was Great Help
first mistake, you always solder all end. never leave a T with one end un-solder, even if it means you leave it with a tail solder in (short little pipe) when you come back later to finish the soldering the unsoldered end, when you heat up the T. the solder ends may crack ,and because its all ready soldered ,no FLUX in the joints, really hard to fix.