3 mods for a firewood Axe : Tuning up the Council Tool 5lb Splitter
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- Опубліковано 10 лис 2023
- In this video I show how to make the 5 lb splitter from Council Tools chop better. It's all about reducing friction. Woodsman and lumberjacks from days past wouldn't have settled for such rough axes like we have today. With a little elbow grease and a few hand tools I turn this axe into a halfway respectable chopper. Whatch the video to see tips on how to get your axe in shape for firewood season.
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I did polishing for a long time (bench jeweler).
If you're looking for that mirror polish, you need to walk the grits down and alternate the direction between grits. This way you can see the lines from the previous grit and when they vanish. 40 to 120 is too big of a jump.
yyttttty
40, 80, 120?
What you're referring to as "slag" is actually mill scale. It's a low quality, (somewhat) rust resistant scaly type of iron or steel that forms when hot iron/steel is exposed to air.
It's more like a collection of the different types of iron oxide which get drawn to the surface during hot or high pressure work. One of which is the type of iron oxide which is normally referred to as rust. Source: I'm a draughtsman in the steel industry. Also worked as a blacksmith and this scale is a menace in that environment!
@@frackcha Ah thank you! I don't know anything about metallurgy. My only experience with mill scale has been for weld prep. I've seen it form on iron/steel during the forging process, so I assumed it was just do to heat.
See where im from, a "slag" is something very different indeed.
@@Andrei-un1cl wah wah
Probably the best video I’ve seen on axe manufacturing concerns and maintenance.
This is why competition racing axes and saws are razor sharp, and polished to a mirror finish.
That’s why never understood why people would say you don’t want an axe “too sharp”
@@MyLonewolf25 most people associate sharpness with the sharp angle, and you actually don't want to grind too sharp of an angle on your tools as it makes them susceptible to chipping the edge. Actually sharpness is about quality of the edge, and that's what is of the greatest importance.
Good point. Yea my Tuatahi work axe is like a mirror although their Trapper model resembles more of the Swedish brands.
Once i used linseed that was heavily dehydrated. It moved like pitch. Was pleased to find that it left almost a hard, protective coating after it soaked into the wood. There was much less dammage to the handle when i, occasionally....would take too deep a bite with my maul.
FYI that pellet tin isn't Benjamin Sheridan ( I'm an airgun guy and can't help myself ), it's a St Louis addressed Benjamin tin.
Either before the buyout or before Benjamin decided to consolidate everything into the Sheridan Racine Wisconsin facility.
Benjamin and Sheridan were 2 different companies till 1977, and it wasn't really till around the Crosman buyout in 1991 that they became Benjamin - Sheridan.
Late in the 80's there was a bit of a merger with the pistol designs, then in '91 the rifles merged into basically 1 gun in 3 calibers ( there are some exceptions ) shortly before Crosman decided to just move production to their Bloomfield NY factory.
If you want to turn it into a great splitter, keep grinding the top and bottom until you end up with a curve. Looking head on you want a splitter to look something like this () with the handle coming out the bottom. Square heads like this [ ] stick. With a belly like they should have the wood is only touching in the center and the head will rock making removing much easier. Also if your worried about your handle, wrap it in bailing wire or cut up a soup can fold it around and rivet it in the back.
I don’t use mine as a splitter it’s a wedge banger but I did pretty much the same thing as you did 👍🏼
Excellent presentation my friend.
I would say that you were “stress relieving” those sharp upper edges in preparation for the mild polish. And obviously your smoothing and polish will definitely make for more efficient splitting.
Reducing the friction of the bit entering the wood by smoothing out rough surfaces is a good idea. If you want to reduce that friction even further, make the final scratch marks from polishing run parallel to the direction of travel instead of perpendicular. This principle can also be used backward. Heavy perpendicular scratches on steel splitting wedges help keep them from backing out. I'm speaking as someone who has split over a hundred cords of firewood by hand in the last dozen years, as well as many hundreds of logs for project stock.
Same concept with throwing axes to get them to stick.👍
I could watch you fiddle and tune axes longer than I'm willing to admit. Show off your collection please. I know I speak for all of us axe guys
Great info. The smooth surface makes perfect sense. Please keep the great videos coming 🎉
Mr. OLD IRON...speaking of oldtimers, heat the head on a wood stove, then rub the beeswax mixture on. The pores in the steel take it readily rather than just having it on the surface. I agree the best thing for that handle is to keep the linseed oil on it, do not let it get thirsty...very enjoyable video sir...
I have one like it but changed the handle to a nice, somewhat slim, 32" curved handle. I have the same problem but it does hold an edge well and the slag is not peeling away as yours. Thanks for the reveal.
Yeah bud I kinda prefer this kind of content. I enjoy watching you restore and modify axes and tools. I wanna see how you clean up and restore old tools.
Thank You For Sharing Your Tips !! Wonderful Ideas And Improvements !
Hey Joe, glade your enjoying the channel man. 👍
This is all great stuff. The time you put into this is appreciated. I'm glad you made this video. You gave me a few ideas for my 5 lb splitter.
Hey thanks for the positive feedback. What year is your 5lb ?
@@old_iron_axe_and_tool Its a 2022. Did you see whiskey river post the video about Council changing the geometry on the newest ones they are putting out? Removing the "speed bump".
Nice work.
Try using smaller stages of sand paper and more of them. It will work.
Love axes, love what you do with them.
I have been interested in this axe for splitting for a year or so now. This was a great video. I love the look of the front down to steel and the back forged it looks a lot like the Brant and Cochran axes which I love being from northern New England. The axes from the Maine and Nh area when new often had paint on them along with labels for marketing purposes. I’ve used axes with paint before and I’ve always thought it created friction and slowed the travel of the axe. It was more about creating eye appeal for sales though I think
I actually love the look of the polished front half. It looks like the Brant and Cochran from Maine. I have been wanting to do that.
It makes a nice contrast between the patina and polished bit. Sure splits better also.
Great presentation. Thank you
Great video!
like your video, enjoy your restoration project
great video and info. congratulations from argentina
I’ll give you another tip. Save all your used oil in a squirt bottle for when you’re splitting. Dawn dish soap bottle works good. Put it on the bit while you’re splitting. WD-40 also works good.
It looks like delamination on the cheek near the edge. It looks like it may have been forge welded together using a quality steel for the edge.
Fascinating
Dude where did you learn all of this?? Love the video!
I just received my 5-pounder but the finish isn’t to bad especially for the price. I definitely need to improve the factory cutting edge. I also ordered their 6-pounder (FE6) with a curved handle. Pretty reasonable price too.
Terrific informative video. Once you Polish the surface smooth that should help inhibit rust. I see guys with carbon steel knives applying a forced petina with vinegar and such. Why do I never see this on an axe. Will it help prevent rust? Are axheads a different composition of steel that does not accept a petina?
We do force patina, mostly cold Bluing solutions.
I think that stuff flaking off is millscale
Hey buddy I was wondering how these axes compare to the higher end German axes out there. I heard great things about council axes but have never swung one. I use a axe on a daily basis so I'm looking to buy a medium price product with high end performance. Thanks for any feedback you can offer.
How did you get that bit edge about 3/4”-1”? Did you do that? Or it came like that? I just got mine and it barely had an edge at all, until I took a file to it to get somewhat of a profiled edge?
You would be amazed how tools and sand paper work with proper air supply, plus using flapper wheel pay attention to your strokes let your tool actually do the work including files
I totally agree with your observation to the rough finish of the axe heads, if you look at plumbs victory line and their rough finish, that was all due to their contribution to the war effort on WW2, and that rough finish of plumbs victory line is a lot more uniform and smoother than gransfors bruks finish. Pre and post war, all plumbs are smooth, same goes with pretty much all the other days of old axe manufacturers like kelly, mann and etc. The most well finished out of all of them, though, in my opinion, are the collins legitimus, the quality is top notch from symmetry to overall finish of their heads are even better than those of my black ravens, JM Warren's is another that is up there with the legitimus. But hey, why spend the time polishing and finishing your product when you can skip it to hide the flaws of manufacturing and sell it to fools who would buy it with no questions asked.
Council tool velvicut line is very smooth.
@louisshirk5027 yup! I totally agree.
I’ll never get tired of hearing “smoothing out those cheeks”
I've been addressing some old axe heads the same way.
Curious; did you make the paste? If so what was the mix of parts wax/oil?
Thanks!
I made it last year and don't remember the ratio. I think it was on the low side for blo.
Sweet 👍🏻 👍🏻
everyday for a week, every week for a month, every month for a year, yearly till replacement
Fiber Fix for your overstrike area not beautiful but works great, I miss alot!😂😂😂😂
Should do a co-op with project farm and see how much resistance it removes!
I think some testing is in order for sure. I've not seen project farm, I'll check them out.👍
Yes please do some testing. A simple closeup slow-motion video would be easy to show wood contact areas. I imaging the wood won't contact the cheeks and top edge if your splitting dry wood with good velocity. Contact with the cheeks and edges may occur while doing other chopping and the mods you made would help. I like the new look you gave this axe.@@old_iron_axe_and_tool
Hmm. I wonder if I melted some beeswax and poured in some boiled linseed oil and let it dry if it would be like that paste
use a Whiskey River 20 dollar leather over strike cover, your handle will last longer.
0:11 me leaving the dive bar with a chubby 6/10 on a Tuesday
For the algorithm
Thanks man
I’ve never understood why people say an axe is “too sharp” or leave tools like this that rough
Look at competition racing axes. Polished till you can read in the reflection. They’re not using 14* filleting bevels but they’re dam durable and quick and you can still SHAVE with them after a competition
No such thing as too sharp a blade or too clean
Incorrect bevel? Sure but never too sharp
depends what you're splitting. Some of that NA softer straight and open grain wood a sharper axe gets between the fibers and opens them up easily. Australian hardwood you'll break your axe handle getting it unstuck
Do not reduce friction in areas where you handle the ax and grip
So many people forget or fail to realize that north America originally knew Gransfors Bruks as the cheap budget axes back in the 60's.
The light blue paint was known.
In my experience the steel is a bit softer than the woodslasher axes of the day, I will admit that the late 60's woodslashers were a little sloppier than the swedish imports but the swedish steel isn't magic.
A lot of people refuse to accept it, and maybe that's because the flippers want to fetch a premium for them and buyers don't want to admit that they payed too much ?
I just want to put it on the record that the vintage swedish axes you'll find aren't the same as today.
I'll also say that they're actually better, standard working tools not the boutique sportsmans tool of today.
Are you saying that the older Swedish axes are better or that the ones they produce today are better?
@@kenj8558 neither really.
The modern swedish axes are overpriced overly revered and kind of poorly designed, the steel quality is fairly good but that's all they have going for them.
The vintage swedish imports are coveted and desired as if Sweden somehow makes or has always made the worlds greatest axes, but they were low end budget axes of the day.
Take your pick, an overpriced ( today they command a premium) lower quality version of superior designed axe or an overpriced axe of inferior design that's technically higher quality in steel.
I guess I would say the vintage axes are better and I'd certainly take one over a modern one if I had to choose between the two, but I'd rather have something else entirely.
The modern swedish axes only have bit hardness to offer, the vintage ones are a little above average compared to most modern axes but there are far far better options when choosing from 70 years worth of axe production.
Rawhide collar.
Original hang?
Yes sir.
The axe was new 2 months ago. I'm digging it.
@@old_iron_axe_and_tool looks like there hanging prosses has got better also
@@jeffschroeder9089 I've bought two 2022 jersey, three 2023 flying fox and twenty five 2022 flying foxes also. Every one of them has a good hang. They're brand new handles are a bitch to remove, supper tight. I've heard some negative reviews though.
I soaked the hell out of the eye with blo also.
Start with 40.. then 80/100..180/200.. 300.. 400
The 40 to 180 was to big of a jump
It’s a damn axe….. you’re doing too much
He’s giving it some TLC, hot rodding it with simple tools/methods; that’s the beauty of “tinkering” my friend: We can perform some thoughtful improvements for a relaxing hour in the shop.
Council tool would have to sell this very axe for over 250 if they tried to complete these details for us, not the VERY reasonable $80 price for a very good quality US made one.
The little tricks he’s outlined turned mine into a splitter that I can hardly put down because it’s such a joy to work with 🤙🏼👌🏽. Happy New Year to you, and stay safe!
That’s funny but I’m like that too. Always looking for ways to improve performance in my chainsaws, hunting rifles, and pistols.