I hope you are making progress with the Jeep. I have had a lot of smoke and drama with mine too. The main reason I bought mine was for the Mercedes diesel engine, if I knew it would be so temperamental I would have got the V8 (cheaper in UK too because of our fuel prices) haha.
Howzit. Yes the new engine I rebuild is running great and jeep is driving great, now its time to play with suspension etc. The diesel is not that expensive, the V8 has some issues like valve seats dropping and overheating. I had a V8, and they are heavy on fuel, it used twice as much fuel as my JKU 3.6 that was very modded
The marking of the diode is clear, the resistance of the resistors is also clear, but what power should the resistors be (0.25W-0.50W-1W)? Is there any difference?
The way you looked after you cleaned the engine reminded me of how I looked after we did the pajs cvs 😂😂😂 Egr deletes are a must on any Turbo diesel, glad you got it done man ! That smoking definitely makes me want to say it’s overfuelling…
Thanks for posting up this info. I want to bypass the coolant from the EGR to determine if that is where I'm getting exhaust gases in the coolant. I can clearly see the pipe from the water pump, but not sure where the outlet is at the rear. Hoping it's not an internal connection to the head. I've looked for some diagrammatics for this but no luck. I know you later removed the inlet manifold/egr cooler so hoping you would know where the coolant outlet is on the EGR cooler. If I can do this then re-test to find no gases in the coolant I will then do the EGR delete as you have done. Thanks in advance for any advice.
Yes. The coolant comes through the head out the to the egr and then out by a small pipe on the intake. If you getting gasses in your coolant, it could much rather be headgasket blown or head cracked. Not a nice one to diagnose and fix unfortunately
@@MountainmanBuildz Thanks for your reply. That's going to make it harder to bypass for sure. I had a new motor put in the car 12,000 km ago. Local mechanic has done testing and believes the head gasket is intact and that the cooler has corroded over 20 years and now allowing gases to get into coolant. Sounds like a pain to fix either way.
@@arcoeco maybe take the intake off and pressure test the port and coolant pipe to see if it leaks there. If it does, you could easily fix it with another intake. Or even cut the egr valve part off, blank both sides and add a vakve to bypass the coolant line there
The coolant line on the Jeep 2.7 doesn't actually go through the EGR, that's the Mercedes Sprinter which uses an EGR cooler. The Jeep 2.7 manifold is slightly different, and although the coolant line runs through the manifold; it actually runs through the manifold and comes out mid-way through the manifold, before connecting to the Viscous Heater to heat the interior on cold weather. The EGR on the Jeep 2.7 manifold doesn't come in contact with the coolant unless there is damage inside the manifold, in which case you would probably be getting coolant inside your intake manifold too. I am currently trying to find a way of bypassing that port at the rear of the engine for the coolant line. The Mercedes fitted OM612 engines run this coolant line through an EGR cooler, whereas the Jeep engines with the OM612 engine run this coolant line into a Viscous Heater. So essentially on Mercedes this line is used to cool, whereas on Jeep this line is actually used to heat the interior/cabin. I am considering finding somebody good with a welder then removing the Exhaust manifold and having the rear-most exhaust port welded shut. This port is what feeds exhaust gases into the EGR system, if I did this and found a way of bypassing the rear coolant line, then I could fit the Mercedes OM612 270 CDI car intake manifold, this actually has a completely separate rear EGR and Coolant line, which I could then block the port off on the manifold and run no EGR at all. I just need to figure out how that coolant pipe system operates. If you give me your email address I can send you a couple of pics of the intake manifold and show you what I mean about the coolant pipe being separate to the EGR valve, they do not come into contact at any point unless something has failed. For a supposedly reliable engine, I have had nothing but problems with mine, and mine is only 126,000 miles (maybe 180,000 kms). My last Jeep diesel was the Cherokee with the Italian VM Motori 2.8 4 cylinder, I found it was actually more reliable. Mercedes over-complicated these engines with emissions crap which was prone to fail..... #....a bit like their Biodegradable Wiring experiment in the 90s!
Idles at 100 rpm Air bubbles Cannot exellerat Black smoke when tying to rev her up But i will try till i die .. To all jeep lovers out there Pls buddy i really need help
I think you mean it idles at 1000rpm? Cranking is 200rpm. But air bubbles is first thing you need to check, if any air is in fuel line, it will struggle, try and see where the air is coming from, replace O-rings on fuel pipes. Buy an OBD11 bluetooth dongle and download WJ Diag, check for fault codes. Let me know what you get. Or you can manually check fault codes on the onboard odo, just youtube how to do it
I hope you are making progress with the Jeep. I have had a lot of smoke and drama with mine too. The main reason I bought mine was for the Mercedes diesel engine, if I knew it would be so temperamental I would have got the V8 (cheaper in UK too because of our fuel prices) haha.
Howzit. Yes the new engine I rebuild is running great and jeep is driving great, now its time to play with suspension etc.
The diesel is not that expensive, the V8 has some issues like valve seats dropping and overheating. I had a V8, and they are heavy on fuel, it used twice as much fuel as my JKU 3.6 that was very modded
The marking of the diode is clear, the resistance of the resistors is also clear, but what power should the resistors be (0.25W-0.50W-1W)? Is there any difference?
The way you looked after you cleaned the engine reminded me of how I looked after we did the pajs cvs 😂😂😂
Egr deletes are a must on any Turbo diesel, glad you got it done man !
That smoking definitely makes me want to say it’s overfuelling…
True that. That was much more messy!
Also I think I should attempt the turbo, I think its stuffed
@@barnbuilds25 my jeep laredo 2.7 crd is idelling at 100 rpms not 1000rpms and it idels normal and starts normal but theres no power under my feet
Thanks for posting up this info. I want to bypass the coolant from the EGR to determine if that is where I'm getting exhaust gases in the coolant. I can clearly see the pipe from the water pump, but not sure where the outlet is at the rear. Hoping it's not an internal connection to the head. I've looked for some diagrammatics for this but no luck. I know you later removed the inlet manifold/egr cooler so hoping you would know where the coolant outlet is on the EGR cooler. If I can do this then re-test to find no gases in the coolant I will then do the EGR delete as you have done. Thanks in advance for any advice.
Yes. The coolant comes through the head out the to the egr and then out by a small pipe on the intake. If you getting gasses in your coolant, it could much rather be headgasket blown or head cracked. Not a nice one to diagnose and fix unfortunately
@@MountainmanBuildz
Thanks for your reply. That's going to make it harder to bypass for sure. I had a new motor put in the car 12,000 km ago. Local mechanic has done testing and believes the head gasket is intact and that the cooler has corroded over 20 years and now allowing gases to get into coolant. Sounds like a pain to fix either way.
@@arcoeco maybe take the intake off and pressure test the port and coolant pipe to see if it leaks there. If it does, you could easily fix it with another intake. Or even cut the egr valve part off, blank both sides and add a vakve to bypass the coolant line there
The coolant line on the Jeep 2.7 doesn't actually go through the EGR, that's the Mercedes Sprinter which uses an EGR cooler. The Jeep 2.7 manifold is slightly different, and although the coolant line runs through the manifold; it actually runs through the manifold and comes out mid-way through the manifold, before connecting to the Viscous Heater to heat the interior on cold weather. The EGR on the Jeep 2.7 manifold doesn't come in contact with the coolant unless there is damage inside the manifold, in which case you would probably be getting coolant inside your intake manifold too. I am currently trying to find a way of bypassing that port at the rear of the engine for the coolant line. The Mercedes fitted OM612 engines run this coolant line through an EGR cooler, whereas the Jeep engines with the OM612 engine run this coolant line into a Viscous Heater. So essentially on Mercedes this line is used to cool, whereas on Jeep this line is actually used to heat the interior/cabin.
I am considering finding somebody good with a welder then removing the Exhaust manifold and having the rear-most exhaust port welded shut. This port is what feeds exhaust gases into the EGR system, if I did this and found a way of bypassing the rear coolant line, then I could fit the Mercedes OM612 270 CDI car intake manifold, this actually has a completely separate rear EGR and Coolant line, which I could then block the port off on the manifold and run no EGR at all. I just need to figure out how that coolant pipe system operates. If you give me your email address I can send you a couple of pics of the intake manifold and show you what I mean about the coolant pipe being separate to the EGR valve, they do not come into contact at any point unless something has failed. For a supposedly reliable engine, I have had nothing but problems with mine, and mine is only 126,000 miles (maybe 180,000 kms). My last Jeep diesel was the Cherokee with the Italian VM Motori 2.8 4 cylinder, I found it was actually more reliable. Mercedes over-complicated these engines with emissions crap which was prone to fail.....
#....a bit like their Biodegradable Wiring experiment in the 90s!
In the video you said leaks
Pls help me
Idles at 100 rpm
Air bubbles
Cannot exellerat
Black smoke when tying to rev her up
But i will try till i die ..
To all jeep lovers out there
Pls buddy i really need help
And with whith that revs
At 100 rpm
It stary fine
And idle fine
I think you mean it idles at 1000rpm? Cranking is 200rpm.
But air bubbles is first thing you need to check, if any air is in fuel line, it will struggle, try and see where the air is coming from, replace O-rings on fuel pipes.
Buy an OBD11 bluetooth dongle and download WJ Diag, check for fault codes. Let me know what you get.
Or you can manually check fault codes on the onboard odo, just youtube how to do it
My baby jeep loredo crs 2.7 .she is full of shit