Leave the Black Scania how it is. Replace all what need to be replaced and you will see will do all work what you invested on. Dont strech dont cut dont short it. Do what ever with white one. Leave the black how it is.
It's not the alligment if the steering wheel shakes when braking, Scania's drum brakes are very sensitive about tire installing, if you engage the handbrake without tire, the drum will go off-center and it causes shaking when braking
On my Scania I have 315/70 R22.5 on the drives and 315/60 R22.5 on the tag axle. Having lower profile tires on the tag also reduces the possibility of tag axle tires hitting the frame of the trailer if you are maneuvering while going over a bump or something. Though it may be less of an issue with US trailers.
You may know this, but when you’re using a combination of steel and aluminum wheels you are supposed to put a thin spacer between them to stop corrosion caused by the two different materials clamped together 🙂
Use pipe dope or Teflon thread lube on them bolts bp blaster is to remove stuck bolts the blaster will break the surface tension and it will cause rust faster then
When I started out, you only had air impact guns. I did a lot of the same things using pipes for leverage and manhandling heavy parts. Well, after my double hernia surgery, I would say use the battery impact guns and forklift for tires, even the drums. It takes a toll on your body. Have you thought about putting the disc brake rears on the black truck ?
If you guys need anything brake or clutch related hit up brake and clutch supply in Seattle they’ll reline those cast iron brake shoes and can get you those brake drums easy!
I have relined those drum shoes on my late fathers friends scania it vas an older one a142, same drums. They did not hold, so I am not recommending doing that. I did it right, I know. I suppose you or I never doing that, after that one I've always gotten new shoes,
@@Karvanensetä you return your cores of a brake shoe to a manufacturer. They punch out the old rivets, take off the old lining, put the brake shoe core in a parts washer, repaint the shoe, then add new brake lining (we used meritor), stamp in the new rivets. I did this every day at brake and clutch supply in Seattle, WA. Not only does it work but Seattle FD, PUD, and DOT all bought their relined brake shoes from them.
I'd look into getting a refurbed tachograph from the UK if you can. There's plenty of them there with MPH readings on them, don't know where or how you'd get them calibrated in the US to read correctly though. You can also reloacte the wet kit tank to the back of the cab with a slim tank and make an airbar for the hoses around that so it looks clean plus you get more fuel tank space. If you plan on running stacks you can have all that on the stack support frame thingy as well and it'd look real nice. The engine could probably run at slightly higher power as well if you kept the AFR the same but got more air in her. If the EGR is causing issues you can get rid of that as well if the EPA doesn't give a crap and you don't have inspections in the US anyway lol.
@@ImForwardlookin his defence, he did say “IF” the EPA doesn’t give a crap and you don’t have inspections anyway” but I can understand how he wrote it means it could come across as his inspection part of the comment looks more like a statement instead of still being under the “if” and writing anyway at the end doesn’t help either 👍 but yeah of course the truck is/needs inspected, he should have really used a question mark to avoid any confusion. He just hasn’t constructed his comment very well, that’s what I think anyway 😊
@@gimble447 As far as I'm aware you don't really have torough inspections other than DOT harassing you on the road or if you're trying to get something registered in certain places. It's not like you're forced to let a guy intently stare at every inch of the truck for an hour straight once a year and if anything so much as looks not stock you're getting asked for paperwork or just getting marked for re-inspection before you're allowed to drive (well drive anywhere other than an inspection shop).
@@stuntvist as far as I’m aware they have yearly DOT inspections for all trucks and trailers too in ALL states, while this is not true in every state for cars it is true for trucks and trailers as by their nature they can cross many states in the course of their business. 👍 if I’m wrong I apologise
Put also Scania mudflaps under the frontbumper it will look good believe me. And some nice chrome stacks behind the cab will change de looks of this beauty. And call it the Dark Night.
It's cheaper as a European buyin parts for an American car directly fro. the US, rather than buyin it in the EU. I bet its the same other way around also.
Yes go for the frames stretch an add another drive axle. But i would suggest to keep the lift axle too, and add a big foldable crane behind the cab and you can do really serious heavy work together with the Low boy😏
You use an impact gun to take rims off And then you pull out a breaker bar and socket to take the shocks off Keep the bar and socket and get the gun and another socket and try that I think it wil be quicker for ya!
Ok, tires AND wheels, I was freaking. I was a fire chief, and when I was a lieutenant I was the apparatus officer. We got flats all the time in the hood, it was expensive, but not that expensive. On our ladder trucks we used the same large fronts as the DPW garage trucks, just to buy in bulk and save a few bucks.
On hub pilot wheel nuts you should use a light weight oil between the washer and nut only never on the threads. It will cause thread wear and cause them to loosen.
Correct. The most important thing is to lube up between the washer and the nut. But it's sertainly not wrong to lub up the threads. Even many EU-truckers do the mistake -of lubin' up only the threads. Skippin' the washer/nut lube; will make manual after tightening of the RE-asembeled wheel nuts a problem. The squeezed rust between the washer and the nut will cause the nuts not to react properly to the proper tourque -when tightening.
Lubricating the thread is reducing the friction, and at nominal torque it is increasing the tension in the stud, with the risk passing stud mechanical resistance. You create the risk of breaking the studs in the future.
As a fleet mechanic I call bull shit. We oil threads every time a wheel is off, have trailers that have done 5 million + miles on the original studs and nuts, no wear, no breakages.
@@samthesr20mannot “exactly” BS, as an OEM product development engineer, this is for us critical safety requirements…. which means no joke, we don’t play with customers and road users safety. It really depends on the friction coefficient reached after lubricating and the nut/stud grade. You can make the calculations, it is not secret nor complicated science. 👍🏼
definetly convert it to a full manual! Once its fully dialed its gonna be one sweet rig! But Please dont stretch it, it'll destroy its turn radius and looks tbh. However, putting the drive axle from the white Scania on the black one to make it a 6x4 would be cool too.
You need wheel donuts like we have over here plus putting aly and steel together on the rears you should have like a rubber spacer to stop corrosion makes them easier to remove in the future
@@saff_cozzie there made exactly for the reason of stopping corrosion between the 2 different metals and no the nut don't come loose at all we have them fitted on 25 of our trucks and not lost one wheel or any come loose
@@saff_cozzie Application The Hub Or Drum And The Wheel, And/Or Between Two Wheels In Dual Applications, Provides Protection For Wheels Against Corrosion And Excessive Wear Used For Aluminum and Steel Wheels
Jack the front end up loosen the lugs have somebody step on the brake and retighten the lugs while holding on the brake this centers the drum and eliminates the front end wobble 😉
I would not mount steel and alu rims together, they work differently when high cornering forces are added and temperatures, alu expands fasther and more than steel....
The flat tops are to use with 70 profile tyres not 80 then most put low profile 60’s on the tag. That way don’t need a bigger 5th wheel. Not sure if you can get the lower profile tyres in the US tho?
Finally scania build continues!!! She’s a beauty, remember almost 20 years ago my father took me down the road in one just like this, much more advanced truck than american ones. Btw on tag axle only round fender covers will work
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder from the late 1990s: whatever you do, don't drop a huge brake drum on your toes. It hurts like crazy-way worse than just saying "ouch"! It'll make you say words that will raise your dead grandmother from the grave so she can whoop your butt! I've been there and done that and I can't recommend you try it...
I must say that I admire your passion for Scania , you really got hooked , and the fact that you do other stuff besides this ! I wonder what lays ahead whilst you’re learning by doing ? Greetings from the town where Scania was born ; Malmö , Sweden 🇸🇪
Another good thing about Koni shocks is they are rebuildable. Or at least, they used to be (Hey, it's been a while). Truck is looking real good! After a good bath it'll look even better. Seeing a modern COE on the pavement is just plain cool!
As a swede i wasn't a fan of seeing several Scanias being chopped up for pieces one after another. But if you marry the white one with the black one for a long chassie 8x6 or 8x4 (with steerable rear axle?) that be so cool. Definitely different even from Scanias own 8x4 configuration chassies as you've seen in the factory.
Hi good video. fun to watch. The truck just looks better and better. A hint possible you did it but always remember to mark where the drum was before disassembling on axle 1. Scania is sensitive to vibrations here. you can try to turn the droms a 180 and test drive again. And always use centering screws can be bought at Scania. The weels on the 3 aksel you can use lower tiers. like 60 profile. normal in Urope
On them shocks and any nut that's ben there a long time wd40 or pb blaster a day or so befor you remove the NUT use a torch heat the nut works every time .... there you go a little much, but there you go
You should put Michelin tires in front. Hands down best truck tires in the world. Also about the only good thing from France related to cars. Don't know about NA trailers but with that high fenders the trailer floor will hit them because the pin table is so low. Did not catch the dimentions of the tire but those look like 315/80-22,5 to me. That size is used on dumpers mainly in europe and thats why it feels like the fenders won't fit. 70 profile look and function much better.
2:40 need to get yourself a tub of antisieze. Nice thin strip across each one before you put the nuts on its all you need and you'll never have that problem again. That PB is going to attract and hold dirt besides it makes a mess..
I Love the content Bruce. Next thing you need to buy from Sweden is a Ljungby L25 payloader. A 25 ton loader whit a 400 hp Scania engine and 186 gallon/minute hydraulic flow and cab suspension. It has some serious power that's for sure.
when handling the drums we sometimes used a small hydraulic motorcukle lift just to get them to the right higt.. but other times we just manned up and liftied the like it was a stongman competion in atlasstones =)
Why not cleaning the shocks bolts treads in the wire wheel before reinstalling them. Also why not use a “rebuilt kit in a can” on the old drums?? Just saying.
I personally think you should get some orange/amber side markers because it looks so dark behind the cab and some led work/reverse lights. I recommend lights from the Swedish brand Strands. Maybe get them through your Finnish friends.
Check your drag links, it can cause steering slack and cause tyre wear. Also get it tracked after new tyres as it could have been done when tyres had wear on them.
Hey Bruce you need to centralise your front wheels with 2x coend nuts and you can put some spacers on top of rear axle to stop the axle lifting to far this stops the fenders whereing out
the fith wheels on many european trucks are hydraulic to change the heigth (the intercitiy trucks often have smaller tires and need rising fith wheels to get different trailers level)
The damper have different careteristics rebound and conpression. They should feel different beteende the directions. The Scania dampers have high rebound damping and rather small compression damping.
on the 1. axel on scania drum brakes you need to tighten the bolts with 650 nm with the park brake off, if done wrong the truck will shake on the steering wheel:))
Make and install a couple spacer plates between the rubber bumpstop and chassis on the rear lift axle so when the axle is lifted, it wont sit up as high and the mudguards will clear
A 36 ton us truck will have 18 tires, a 44 ton european truck might have as few as 10 tires. So each tire cary consideraly more load. They are wider and taller and also higher pressure. The benefit is that roaling resistance is about about 35% lower, combine that with the lower top speed of typicallt 80km/h on most eu roads (compare to typically 105-120km/h in usa) european trucks use quite a bit less fuel. The cost of expensive tires and slow transport.
Seeing those tires reminds me of when I put the 18.5 x 44s on my mud truck seen in my profile picture, my 4-year-old nephew saw them and he said, "That's some big fu(&!#$ tires". And his mom was not happy with him or with me and his dad for laughing our behinds off. lol.
the fender tops from european trucks is standard so you can try to get some from Freigthleiner in the USA (freigthleiner is owned by Mercedes benz and they probably can get them from germany or brazil)
Is it difficult to ship parts from Mexico? Because they sell Scanias there, you could get all parts way closer from home. Also your front left corner light/indicator are still inverted.
Try to tighten the front wheel nut to 750 Nm in a crossing pattern to get rid of shaking in the steering wheel, it's a must when i change the front wheel on my Scania
What kind of tires do US truck have? These sizes are pretty standard. Because trucks in europe are heavier (they start at 90.000lbs in the countries with the lower max wheights) this is pretty much a normal size. The only difference is, we have the highload ones. They can have 4300kg(9500lbs) per tire. I drive a single drive scania r500 and my drive can have 25350lbs by law and 28660lbs is the teck max wheight. My steer axle can have 19800lbs and the trailer has 3axle of 22000lbs per axle. With a total max wheight of 110.000lbs +5% overload allowance is a max wheight of 115700lbs by law on 5 axles without any extra permits. Therefore we have those bigger tires because with bigger tires they dont blow as fast.
Leave the Black Scania how it is. Replace all what need to be replaced and you will see will do all work what you invested on. Dont strech dont cut dont short it. Do what ever with white one. Leave the black how it is.
Amen brother. Exactly.
I concur. keep the black one original but restore it, Frankenstein the white one.
S9525 part number for high fender
It's not the alligment if the steering wheel shakes when braking, Scania's drum brakes are very sensitive about tire installing, if you engage the handbrake without tire, the drum will go off-center and it causes shaking when braking
Isnt it discs?
@@erikforsgren8237 maybe if you watch the video you will find out...
Your issue with the wing tops not fitting is one of the many reasons why the majority of Scanias have smaller tires on the tag axle.
At our company we have 385/55R22.5 on both front and tag axle. Though we have a steerable tag so it needs a bit more space
On my Scania I have 315/70 R22.5 on the drives and 315/60 R22.5 on the tag axle. Having lower profile tires on the tag also reduces the possibility of tag axle tires hitting the frame of the trailer if you are maneuvering while going over a bump or something. Though it may be less of an issue with US trailers.
@@kaarel545 We also don't have this issue in Sweden since most of our trucks are rigid chassis trucks with full trailers, alternatively dolly+trailer.
34:40
I like it, instead of 3 projects, putting the best of each Scania in one, good luck💪
You may know this, but when you’re using a combination of steel and aluminum wheels you are supposed to put a thin spacer between them to stop corrosion caused by the two different materials clamped together 🙂
Blackbird would be the perfect name for the black Scania
Black griffon.
Black griffin😂
Raven
I also wanted to write Blackbird,but the problem is that he plans to paint it blue.
@@Z4N7bluebird?
Scania rear wing top high arch vtp part number 109543 your welcome
Use pipe dope or Teflon thread lube on them bolts bp blaster is to remove stuck bolts the blaster will break the surface tension and it will cause rust faster then
When I started out, you only had air impact guns. I did a lot of the same things using pipes for leverage and manhandling heavy parts. Well, after my double hernia surgery, I would say use the battery impact guns and forklift for tires, even the drums. It takes a toll on your body. Have you thought about putting the disc brake rears on the black truck ?
If you guys need anything brake or clutch related hit up brake and clutch supply in Seattle they’ll reline those cast iron brake shoes and can get you those brake drums easy!
I have relined those drum shoes on my late fathers friends scania it vas an older one a142, same drums. They did not hold, so I am not recommending doing that. I did it right, I know. I suppose you or I never doing that, after that one I've always gotten new shoes,
@@Karvanensetä you return your cores of a brake shoe to a manufacturer. They punch out the old rivets, take off the old lining, put the brake shoe core in a parts washer, repaint the shoe, then add new brake lining (we used meritor), stamp in the new rivets. I did this every day at brake and clutch supply in Seattle, WA. Not only does it work but Seattle FD, PUD, and DOT all bought their relined brake shoes from them.
I'd look into getting a refurbed tachograph from the UK if you can. There's plenty of them there with MPH readings on them, don't know where or how you'd get them calibrated in the US to read correctly though. You can also reloacte the wet kit tank to the back of the cab with a slim tank and make an airbar for the hoses around that so it looks clean plus you get more fuel tank space. If you plan on running stacks you can have all that on the stack support frame thingy as well and it'd look real nice. The engine could probably run at slightly higher power as well if you kept the AFR the same but got more air in her. If the EGR is causing issues you can get rid of that as well if the EPA doesn't give a crap and you don't have inspections in the US anyway lol.
Where did you get the no inspection thing from?
@@ImForwardlookin his defence, he did say “IF” the EPA doesn’t give a crap and you don’t have inspections anyway” but I can understand how he wrote it means it could come across as his inspection part of the comment looks more like a statement instead of still being under the “if” and writing anyway at the end doesn’t help either 👍 but yeah of course the truck is/needs inspected, he should have really used a question mark to avoid any confusion. He just hasn’t constructed his comment very well, that’s what I think anyway 😊
@@gimble447 As far as I'm aware you don't really have torough inspections other than DOT harassing you on the road or if you're trying to get something registered in certain places. It's not like you're forced to let a guy intently stare at every inch of the truck for an hour straight once a year and if anything so much as looks not stock you're getting asked for paperwork or just getting marked for re-inspection before you're allowed to drive (well drive anywhere other than an inspection shop).
@@stuntvist as far as I’m aware they have yearly DOT inspections for all trucks and trailers too in ALL states, while this is not true in every state for cars it is true for trucks and trailers as by their nature they can cross many states in the course of their business. 👍 if I’m wrong I apologise
The coolest thing is thats is painted by my local paintshop Autolack here in Halmstad Sweden!! Probably lived and worked its whole life here before!!
Put also Scania mudflaps under the frontbumper it will look good believe me. And some nice chrome stacks behind the cab will change de looks of this beauty. And call it the Dark Night.
Yeah, because no one ever came up with that name for a black truck, right? 🤭
Damn, I always believed that things cost cheaper in the USA, now I see that the inflation issue was no joke.😅
Why buy expensive tires for a super slow truck?
Need to thank the old fart who is in charge
@@horeR34 Or perhaps Putler.
It's cheaper as a European buyin parts for an American car directly fro. the US, rather than buyin it in the EU. I bet its the same other way around also.
Yep that's Bidenomics for ya.
Yes go for the frames stretch an add another drive axle. But i would suggest to keep the lift axle too, and add a big foldable crane behind the cab and you can do really serious heavy work together with the Low boy😏
That VSB groep mudflap is from a big dealership not far from here in The Netherlands...my wife's cousin has worked there.
Its in the land van maas en waal😂😂😂
You use an impact gun to take rims off And then you pull out a breaker bar and socket to take the shocks off Keep the bar and socket and get the gun and another socket and try that I think it wil be quicker for ya!
I must admit though, that scania with those rims and tires is so beautiful
Ok, tires AND wheels, I was freaking. I was a fire chief, and when I was a lieutenant I was the apparatus officer. We got flats all the time in the hood, it was expensive, but not that expensive. On our ladder trucks we used the same large fronts as the DPW garage trucks, just to buy in bulk and save a few bucks.
On hub pilot wheel nuts you should use a light weight oil between the washer and nut only never on the threads. It will cause thread wear and cause them to loosen.
Correct. The most important thing is to lube up between the washer and the nut. But it's sertainly not wrong to lub up the threads. Even many EU-truckers do the mistake -of lubin' up only the threads. Skippin' the washer/nut lube; will make manual after tightening of the RE-asembeled wheel nuts a problem. The squeezed rust between the washer and the nut will cause the nuts not to react properly to the proper tourque -when tightening.
Lubricating the thread is reducing the friction, and at nominal torque it is increasing the tension in the stud, with the risk passing stud mechanical resistance. You create the risk of breaking the studs in the future.
Just like how they said the tires were crazy expensive… but they’re the same price as any other semi in America…
As a fleet mechanic I call bull shit. We oil threads every time a wheel is off, have trailers that have done 5 million + miles on the original studs and nuts, no wear, no breakages.
@@samthesr20mannot “exactly” BS, as an OEM product development engineer, this is for us critical safety requirements…. which means no joke, we don’t play with customers and road users safety.
It really depends on the friction coefficient reached after lubricating and the nut/stud grade. You can make the calculations, it is not secret nor complicated science. 👍🏼
Koni makes great kits for gen 3 firebirds and all sports cars I had them in the 80-90’s as a SCCA sponsor on my Renault and my 78 Trans Am
Love the paint on the mini Freightliner.
definetly convert it to a full manual! Once its fully dialed its gonna be one sweet rig! But Please dont stretch it, it'll destroy its turn radius and looks tbh. However, putting the drive axle from the white Scania on the black one to make it a 6x4 would be cool too.
we usually use a smaller tire diameter on the lift axle than on the drive axle in Europe
He probably want that 6x4 look.
@@Z4N7 4x6, 6x4 wouldnt be possible
@@sharksrbetter No,it's the opposite,first number marks the number of wheels and the second one marks the number of drive wheels.
You need wheel donuts like we have over here plus putting aly and steel together on the rears you should have like a rubber spacer to stop corrosion makes them easier to remove in the future
Yeah no to the rubber spacer wheel nuts will be lose every time
@@saff_cozzie there made exactly for the reason of stopping corrosion between the 2 different metals and no the nut don't come loose at all we have them fitted on 25 of our trucks and not lost one wheel or any come loose
@@saff_cozzie Application
The Hub Or Drum And The Wheel, And/Or Between Two Wheels In Dual Applications, Provides Protection For Wheels Against Corrosion And Excessive Wear
Used For
Aluminum and Steel Wheels
Jack the front end up loosen the lugs have somebody step on the brake and retighten the lugs while holding on the brake this centers the drum and eliminates the front end wobble 😉
@@jone8626 okay 👍
I would not mount steel and alu rims together, they work differently when high cornering forces are added and temperatures, alu expands fasther and more than steel....
Tip, after cold start, you can up the revs with cruise control + and - to gain air quicker.
Hi ,i have over 20years in scanias , and i think you shud have 22,5 -70-315 or 22,5-80-285 tires on the rear.
Yes i think 385/55 R22.5 for the steer and 315/70 R22.5 for the tandem are more proper looking.
The flat tops are to use with 70 profile tyres not 80 then most put low profile 60’s on the tag. That way don’t need a bigger 5th wheel. Not sure if you can get the lower profile tyres in the US tho?
..the White SCANIA is my favorite- don't mess around with it.
He's gonna scrap it.
He said in last video he's gonna use it as a parts truck
Finally scania build continues!!! She’s a beauty, remember almost 20 years ago my father took me down the road in one just like this, much more advanced truck than american ones. Btw on tag axle only round fender covers will work
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder from the late 1990s: whatever you do, don't drop a huge brake drum on your toes. It hurts like crazy-way worse than just saying "ouch"! It'll make you say words that will raise your dead grandmother from the grave so she can whoop your butt! I've been there and done that and I can't recommend you try it...
great vid Bruce & beautiful Scania,ive worked on rigs etc since 1988 in England & still love the job,keep up the great work you & your team do
I must say that I admire your passion for Scania , you really got hooked , and the fact that you do other stuff besides this !
I wonder what lays ahead whilst you’re learning by doing ?
Greetings from the town where Scania was born ; Malmö , Sweden 🇸🇪
Another good thing about Koni shocks is they are rebuildable. Or at least, they used to be (Hey, it's been a while). Truck is looking real good! After a good bath it'll look even better. Seeing a modern COE on the pavement is just plain cool!
As a swede i wasn't a fan of seeing several Scanias being chopped up for pieces one after another. But if you marry the white one with the black one for a long chassie 8x6 or 8x4 (with steerable rear axle?) that be so cool. Definitely different even from Scanias own 8x4 configuration chassies as you've seen in the factory.
Hi good video. fun to watch. The truck just looks better and better. A hint possible you did it but always remember to mark where the drum was before disassembling on axle 1. Scania is sensitive to vibrations here. you can try to turn the droms a 180 and test drive again. And always use centering screws can be bought at Scania. The weels on the 3 aksel you can use lower tiers. like 60 profile. normal in Urope
On them shocks and any nut that's ben there a long time wd40 or pb blaster a day or so befor you remove the NUT use a torch heat the nut works every time .... there you go a little much, but there you go
Admits to not having insurance proceeds to take it on a test drive!
he knows allll about insurance 😂😂😂
That was clearly filmed in Mexico 🇲🇽 where all of that paperwork is completely unnecessary 🤠
@@RDC_AutosportsHaha,i think i saw your comment in some video made about Bruce's past ordeals.
You should put Michelin tires in front. Hands down best truck tires in the world. Also about the only good thing from France related to cars. Don't know about NA trailers but with that high fenders the trailer floor will hit them because the pin table is so low. Did not catch the dimentions of the tire but those look like 315/80-22,5 to me. That size is used on dumpers mainly in europe and thats why it feels like the fenders won't fit. 70 profile look and function much better.
2:40 need to get yourself a tub of antisieze. Nice thin strip across each one before you put the nuts on its all you need and you'll never have that problem again. That PB is going to attract and hold dirt besides it makes a mess..
Why not get your friends from Finland to find an 8×4 and ship it over.
Importing a truck from Europe would be another youtube hit?
In Finland 4 series is already too old to see on the roads, they are classics, good luck finding a old 8x4 semi 4 series.
If you stretch the black one you can fit the fueltank's from the white one.
looks like the home made stering wheel bended already 27:50
great vid bruce the front wheel wobble on a scania is usually that the wheels are not centralised on the studs
or just unbalanced wheels? I can't see it has been done.
I Love the content Bruce. Next thing you need to buy from Sweden is a Ljungby L25 payloader. A 25 ton loader whit a 400 hp Scania engine and 186 gallon/minute hydraulic flow and cab suspension. It has some serious power that's for sure.
when handling the drums we sometimes used a small hydraulic motorcukle lift just to get them to the right higt.. but other times we just manned up and liftied the like it was a stongman competion in atlasstones =)
Why not cleaning the shocks bolts treads in the wire wheel before reinstalling them. Also why not use a “rebuilt kit in a can” on the old drums?? Just saying.
I personally think you should get some orange/amber side markers because it looks so dark behind the cab and some led work/reverse lights. I recommend lights from the Swedish brand Strands. Maybe get them through your Finnish friends.
That Scania is a beast 💪 Bruce, thank you for a great video
3:13 remove those cups , they trap moisture and oxidize your studs and nuts
Check your drag links, it can cause steering slack and cause tyre wear. Also get it tracked after new tyres as it could have been done when tyres had wear on them.
EuroWilson LLC!
Hey Bruce you need to centralise your front wheels with 2x coend nuts and you can put some spacers on top of rear axle to stop the axle lifting to far this stops the fenders whereing out
the fith wheels on many european trucks are hydraulic to change the heigth (the intercitiy trucks often have smaller tires and need rising fith wheels to get different trailers level)
The damper have different careteristics rebound and conpression. They should feel different beteende the directions. The Scania dampers have high rebound damping and rather small compression damping.
Hey Bruce I love your truck videos buddy
on the 1. axel on scania drum brakes you need to tighten the bolts with 650 nm with the park brake off, if done wrong the truck will shake on the steering wheel:))
It will shake anyway if the wheels aren't balanced. I haven't seen it being done.
I just can tell me and Bruce would get along great
You should see about getting a set of minimizer round fenders made for the truck similar to the ones on the Pull Truck.
Make and install a couple spacer plates between the rubber bumpstop and chassis on the rear lift axle so when the axle is lifted, it wont sit up as high and the mudguards will clear
Best video for while , thanks Bruce.
whatever happened to that lovely r730 motor that you were having shipped over for the truck, is that still on the way or did I miss something
EPA put a stop to that
@@Bruce_Wilson did EPA know what year of construction it is, or did you tell them ?
I dont know if you know this but if you need air for the truck you can always hook it up to shop air
A 36 ton us truck will have 18 tires, a 44 ton european truck might have as few as 10 tires. So each tire cary consideraly more load. They are wider and taller and also higher pressure. The benefit is that roaling resistance is about about 35% lower, combine that with the lower top speed of typicallt 80km/h on most eu roads (compare to typically 105-120km/h in usa) european trucks use quite a bit less fuel.
The cost of expensive tires and slow transport.
Could you perhaps try google foe the part numbers ?
Crazy expensive tires? That’s how much any regular semi truck tires cost…
awesome 😉 Have the wheels been balanced? Does the black Scania still get an airbrush theme like we do in Europe?
Seeing those tires reminds me of when I put the 18.5 x 44s on my mud truck seen in my profile picture, my 4-year-old nephew saw them and he said, "That's some big fu(&!#$ tires". And his mom was not happy with him or with me and his dad for laughing our behinds off. lol.
The V8 sounds good , needs a couple of stacks ,8s !
Straight pipe m8
@@xxinsanitybomer4620 nah, better to atleast have a resonator so it doesn't sound like shit.
Allways nice videos by you and your team.
Watching this whilst driving my 2017 S500 next gen Scania. I wish is had a 4-serie like that 🙈
How stupid can you be?
If those wheels needs the lug nuts with the alignment dowels on them.
You need a shim between the Durabrite and the steel on the rears!
I love the Sania Bruce and love blue collar
Scania is sold in Central and South America, maybe you can find break drums there.
I think it’s safe to say Nyck Caution Pressure is your jam 😛
If you run with the duel tag down then low mud wings would set it off and look good
Leave black 1 as it is looks cool twin tag
the fender tops from european trucks is standard so you can try to get some from Freigthleiner in the USA (freigthleiner is owned by Mercedes benz and they probably can get them from germany or brazil)
Is it difficult to ship parts from Mexico? Because they sell Scanias there, you could get all parts way closer from home.
Also your front left corner light/indicator are still inverted.
Should get a custom set of spinning center caps with Scania logos on them
It'll be cool to see an S13 powertrain from the new International into the Scania.
But...like the S13 engine is just a Scania DC13. You mean like put the S13 engine into an old Scania?
Bruce those mud flaps (fenders to you guys) are for low profile tyres there smaller than the ones you have. Low pros look better though
Question. Does. Truck need. Wheel. Alignment
The Scania looking better 😉
Are you going to Europe to do some truck shows this year.
About the same in the UK but that's going for the good tyres like Michelin
Ahha, here he is, old Bruce jenna!
Good stuff 😎
To top it of, go and search for the Poppy airfreshner..you can find them in a lot of trucks, also in mine😂😂 its from Japan
Try to tighten the front wheel nut to 750 Nm in a crossing pattern to get rid of shaking in the steering wheel, it's a must when i change the front wheel on my Scania
Thats way over 600nm max its an ballance issue on the front ally wheels
Did you seriously just put steel and aluminum wheels together without a center divider ring?
We all do it😊
@jeffleach8906 no we all don't and it's very not right to do that.
Is it much different than an aluminum wheel against a steel drum?
@jaakkoiswatching6437 yes it is. It's just known in the tire business that you don't but them up to each other with out a ring divider between them.
i thougt the same 😂
You need the original Scania's steering wheel
You’re vale stems should be oper set form each other
Them mud wings are perfect for that as it has a low turntable looks the part
21:28 you installed the wrong screws

What kind of tires do US truck have? These sizes are pretty standard. Because trucks in europe are heavier (they start at 90.000lbs in the countries with the lower max wheights) this is pretty much a normal size. The only difference is, we have the highload ones. They can have 4300kg(9500lbs) per tire. I drive a single drive scania r500 and my drive can have 25350lbs by law and 28660lbs is the teck max wheight. My steer axle can have 19800lbs and the trailer has 3axle of 22000lbs per axle. With a total max wheight of 110.000lbs +5% overload allowance is a max wheight of 115700lbs by law on 5 axles without any extra permits. Therefore we have those bigger tires because with bigger tires they dont blow as fast.