I got an estimate to replace a wood side gate that looks just like this. Quotes between $750 - $1000, not painted!!! I looked at it and thought how hard could it be? Just use it as a template. This is a great tutorial. Only thing I will do different is pre-prime all of my wood pieces prior to assembly. Once assembled, I will paint it prior to hanging it so all edges are covered in paint to prevent wood rot and termites. I can do touch-ups after it's hung, if necessary.
That's pretty steep for a gate like this. Glad my video is helpful - it really isn't all that hard. If you plan on painting the gate, for sure it would be good to pre-prime so you can get all surfaces. I used all redwood and didn't plan to paint, so I just left it bare. Let me know how yours turns out!
Note to others watching: You can loosen those "posts" bolted to a wall surface, and shim them to be straight up and down before mounting if they're off as here.
Great vid ,can I offer a little advice, never operate a circular saw with your body in direct line to the saw ,kick back can result in terrible injury,sorry but I felt I had to mention this.
Wow, that is GREAT Advice! I've never actively thought about that - as is apparent in the video! Because you gave your little advice, I just watched several videos on circular saw (and table saw) safety and dangers, and I want to thank you for your input. Life is about constant learning, and this was a great lesson! I will for sure remember this on all future projects!
That frame with just three 2x4's is very unstable. Really needs at least one or better two vertical blocks to make a square frame. Also, why would you put the hinges on the outside?
Hi 4SeasonPro, 1) the frame is holding up just fine, and in fact every other gate of this size I've seen had just 3 2x4's in the "Z" configuration, just like this, even the other two at my house that were built/installed by fencing contractors. 2) The hinges are on the outside because local code requires that gates open outward (because we have a pool), which would necessarily require the hinges (of this style) to be put on the outside. I wanted to re-use the hinges to save on cost, so I did not bother looking for a hinge that could be mounted on the edge to allow it to swing out without showing the hinge. Besides, what's wrong with how this looks?
@@PhilsDIY oh I see that makes sense with the local code. Well, when the hinges are on the outside, someone could just take them off and take the whole gate off and access your yard. It's not secure. But if you are not locking the gate then it doesn't matter I guess. The Z configuration is just fine for some time, I had one like that myself and just rebuilt the gate too. When I took the old pickets off the frame, the frame was all loosey-goosey and wobbling all around. It's not a strong shape. Sure, when you add the pickets, they take on the job of holding everything together, but it should be the frame's job. I just don't think it will hold up over the years well.
@@Yurkevich22 If someone is willing to unscrew the hinges to access our yard, there's not a whole lot we can do to stop him/her I guess! LOL. The old one I replaced was more than loosey-goosey (opening scene of the video), it had been cut on the lower cross piece for some reason by whoever lived here before. What frame configuration do you think would be better for a small 3' wide gate like this?
@@PhilsDIY I'd do 2 more vertical pieces of 2x4 to make a box or a square/rectangle if you will. In essence, the pickets on your gate now do that job of holding it together but it shouldn't be the picket's job.
It’s a great video ..you can shim and caulk to address the gap .. it looks a little too tight (maybe subtracted 1/2”?).. did you find that after rains it gets stuck due to expansion ?
No expansion that I can tell. I have actually around 3/8" gap between the sill and the door, which is filled in by a rubber weather seal. So even if there might be a little expansion it's no problem with the seal.
@@Ryan-bc2whThat's so true. The boards I got for this gate were not dry at all. In fact, they were practically wet and a couple of them even oozed a little water as I drove the screws in. Now, they have almost 1/4 inch gap between the boards they're so dry! Hope people read this so that if they use old, dry boards the should leave maybe 1/8 inch between them. Thanks for your observation and comments!
Gosh, i don't know... when i first made it, the boards were damp and had some moisture so it was heavy, but not more than about 60-70 pounds, since i was able to pick it up. Now I'm sure it's lighter, with zero moisture in the wood.
Thank you for the informative (so many techniques shown) film. That diagonal brace, does it go from the hinged corner up, or from the hinged corner down? It looks like in your project the diagonal goes from the hinged corner upward to unhinged corner. On our old gate it is same position, it hits bottom hinged. Does it matter at all? I see in some films it is one way, in other opposite.
Hi Olena, yes, the diagonal piece goes from the lower hinge up to the non-hinged side top, where thre latch is. Putting it the other way, from the top hinge down, will cause it to sag.
@@PhilsDIY Thank you, it explains a lot. If I may also ask you about that diagonal piece: is it better to keep it like one piece, going from top to bottom, so it will cut the central parallel brace (in most cases it will be 3 parallel for the whole gate door) or to cut that diagonal in 2 parts and keep the central parallel in one piece? It is done so in our original gate, but I saw several films, where the central parallel is cut. Not sure which design is better. Thank you again for a great film (so many techniques shown, like you watched 10 films) and explanations.
@@olenaerhardt7725 I've never seen a small gate like this with 3 horizontal pieces. But I think it would probably be better to keep the diagonal piece one solid piece for the support if you're going to do that. I don't think a third piece in the middle would add anything other than more weight
This was asked in a previous comment... I used wood strips to shim up the gate up against the opening, and attached the upper hinge first with just one screw so that the hinge could rotate as I adjusted the gate, then adjusted the gate to level and then attached the lower hinge and finished off with the rest of the screws for the upper hinge.
Just curious did you get that multiple board cut from Essential Craftsman? I saw that demo on his circ saw pro tip video. Awesome little trick. Gate looks pretty good 👍👍
I used wood strips to shim up the gate up against the opening, and attached the upper hinge first with just one screw so that the hinge could rotate as I adjusted the gate, then adjusted the gate to level and then attached the lower hinge and finished off with the rest of the screws for the upper hinge.
I found on my diagonal brace one screw let the board rotate a little. I went at a steep angle and toenailed (screwed) into the face grain enough to be flush and hide it with the fence slats. Any reason you didnt do a full frame? Just curious. I have built 2 gates now for clients (friends) and if a full frame isnt needed I coulda save em a few bucks in material. My only concern is setting it up to be square. With a full frame I know it is square.
I felt by screwing all the picket boards to the diagonal brace it wouldn't nave any sagging issues. As for making sure it's square, I measured the distance between the horizontal pieces to be equal and just positioned the frame to be 90 degrees to the picket boards. Worked out fine, and it's solid. Thanks for your comments!
@@PhilsDIY i see though you had a "jig" to make sure everything is squared up.. I have a damn car so whatever i fit in the trunk are the tools I am using haha
If it's concrete block, the kind that's hollow, you might want to use a toggle bolt in the part of the block that's hollow. I found that sometimes they can crumble easily when you drill into them. For smaller, light attachments I have used Tapcon concrete anchors that worked pretty well. Also from Home Depot. Otherwise, I would look at a masonry anchor system, like wedge anchors.
Thanks for sharing several great tricks to work smart, not hard!
I got an estimate to replace a wood side gate that looks just like this. Quotes between $750 - $1000, not painted!!! I looked at it and thought how hard could it be? Just use it as a template. This is a great tutorial. Only thing I will do different is pre-prime all of my wood pieces prior to assembly. Once assembled, I will paint it prior to hanging it so all edges are covered in paint to prevent wood rot and termites. I can do touch-ups after it's hung, if necessary.
That's pretty steep for a gate like this. Glad my video is helpful - it really isn't all that hard. If you plan on painting the gate, for sure it would be good to pre-prime so you can get all surfaces. I used all redwood and didn't plan to paint, so I just left it bare. Let me know how yours turns out!
Great vid on how to make this type of gate! I’m rebuilding our gate tomorrow, and will use this as my guide, Thanks for creating and posting.
Excellent video. Very easy to follow. Will be using this in a week to build a gate. Thank you.
Great tips on making things even. Thank you!
Will definitely be using this video later. Very informative! Great advice.
So technical....and smooth. Nice job, I'm thoroughly impressed. Wowww
Thanks for the video! Great help
Great job
Note to others watching: You can loosen those "posts" bolted to a wall surface, and shim them to be straight up and down before mounting if they're off as here.
Great suggestion! Thanks!
Thank you.
thank you
Great vid ,can I offer a little advice, never operate a circular saw with your body in direct line to the saw ,kick back can result in terrible injury,sorry but I felt I had to mention this.
Wow, that is GREAT Advice! I've never actively thought about that - as is apparent in the video! Because you gave your little advice, I just watched several videos on circular saw (and table saw) safety and dangers, and I want to thank you for your input. Life is about constant learning, and this was a great lesson! I will for sure remember this on all future projects!
@@PhilsDIY no problem Phil enjoy your future projects .
That frame with just three 2x4's is very unstable. Really needs at least one or better two vertical blocks to make a square frame. Also, why would you put the hinges on the outside?
Hi 4SeasonPro, 1) the frame is holding up just fine, and in fact every other gate of this size I've seen had just 3 2x4's in the "Z" configuration, just like this, even the other two at my house that were built/installed by fencing contractors. 2) The hinges are on the outside because local code requires that gates open outward (because we have a pool), which would necessarily require the hinges (of this style) to be put on the outside. I wanted to re-use the hinges to save on cost, so I did not bother looking for a hinge that could be mounted on the edge to allow it to swing out without showing the hinge. Besides, what's wrong with how this looks?
@@PhilsDIY oh I see that makes sense with the local code. Well, when the hinges are on the outside, someone could just take them off and take the whole gate off and access your yard. It's not secure. But if you are not locking the gate then it doesn't matter I guess. The Z configuration is just fine for some time, I had one like that myself and just rebuilt the gate too. When I took the old pickets off the frame, the frame was all loosey-goosey and wobbling all around. It's not a strong shape. Sure, when you add the pickets, they take on the job of holding everything together, but it should be the frame's job. I just don't think it will hold up over the years well.
@@Yurkevich22 If someone is willing to unscrew the hinges to access our yard, there's not a whole lot we can do to stop him/her I guess! LOL. The old one I replaced was more than loosey-goosey (opening scene of the video), it had been cut on the lower cross piece for some reason by whoever lived here before. What frame configuration do you think would be better for a small 3' wide gate like this?
@@PhilsDIY I'd do 2 more vertical pieces of 2x4 to make a box or a square/rectangle if you will. In essence, the pickets on your gate now do that job of holding it together but it shouldn't be the picket's job.
@@Yurkevich22 I see - make a rectangle, then put the diagonal for the lateral support. Maybe next one I build I'll try that. Thanks!
It’s a great video ..you can shim and caulk to address the gap .. it looks a little too tight (maybe subtracted 1/2”?).. did you find that after rains it gets stuck due to expansion ?
No expansion that I can tell. I have actually around 3/8" gap between the sill and the door, which is filled in by a rubber weather seal. So even if there might be a little expansion it's no problem with the seal.
Here is our fancy gate on a budget!!!
ua-cam.com/video/a8AvrqAwkTI/v-deo.html
need to leave a space between the planks partner
Can you explain why?
@@PhilsDIY Moisture will causes expansion and can possibly split the planks
@@Ryan-bc2whThat's so true. The boards I got for this gate were not dry at all. In fact, they were practically wet and a couple of them even oozed a little water as I drove the screws in. Now, they have almost 1/4 inch gap between the boards they're so dry! Hope people read this so that if they use old, dry boards the should leave maybe 1/8 inch between them. Thanks for your observation and comments!
Can u estimate how does the gate weigh?
Gosh, i don't know... when i first made it, the boards were damp and had some moisture so it was heavy, but not more than about 60-70 pounds, since i was able to pick it up. Now I'm sure it's lighter, with zero moisture in the wood.
Thank you for the informative (so many techniques shown) film. That diagonal brace, does it go from the hinged corner up, or from the hinged corner down? It looks like in your project the diagonal goes from the hinged corner upward to unhinged corner. On our old gate it is same position, it hits bottom hinged. Does it matter at all? I see in some films it is one way, in other opposite.
Hi Olena, yes, the diagonal piece goes from the lower hinge up to the non-hinged side top, where thre latch is. Putting it the other way, from the top hinge down, will cause it to sag.
@@PhilsDIY Thank you, it explains a lot. If I may also ask you about that diagonal piece: is it better to keep it like one piece, going from top to bottom, so it will cut the central parallel brace (in most cases it will be 3 parallel for the whole gate door) or to cut that diagonal in 2 parts and keep the central parallel in one piece? It is done so in our original gate, but I saw several films, where the central parallel is cut. Not sure which design is better. Thank you again for a great film (so many techniques shown, like you watched 10 films) and explanations.
@@olenaerhardt7725 I've never seen a small gate like this with 3 horizontal pieces. But I think it would probably be better to keep the diagonal piece one solid piece for the support if you're going to do that. I don't think a third piece in the middle would add anything other than more weight
@@PhilsDIY I'm sorry, I might didn't explain well about our gate, it is 6' tall and 40" wide gate. Thank you for your advice.
How did you 'hang it' BY YOURSELF?! That part got skipped...
This was asked in a previous comment... I used wood strips to shim up the gate up against the opening, and attached the upper hinge first with just one screw so that the hinge could rotate as I adjusted the gate, then adjusted the gate to level and then attached the lower hinge and finished off with the rest of the screws for the upper hinge.
👏👏👏👏👏
Just curious did you get that multiple board cut from Essential Craftsman? I saw that demo on his circ saw pro tip video. Awesome little trick.
Gate looks pretty good 👍👍
Honestly I don't remember whose video it was for that tip.
Is there really only 2 screws holding the Z frame together?
Yes. The many screws holding the pickets to the frame does the rest for structural strength.
Looks good how did u attach it level?
I used wood strips to shim up the gate up against the opening, and attached the upper hinge first with just one screw so that the hinge could rotate as I adjusted the gate, then adjusted the gate to level and then attached the lower hinge and finished off with the rest of the screws for the upper hinge.
I found on my diagonal brace one screw let the board rotate a little. I went at a steep angle and toenailed (screwed) into the face grain enough to be flush and hide it with the fence slats.
Any reason you didnt do a full frame? Just curious. I have built 2 gates now for clients (friends) and if a full frame isnt needed I coulda save em a few bucks in material. My only concern is setting it up to be square. With a full frame I know it is square.
I felt by screwing all the picket boards to the diagonal brace it wouldn't nave any sagging issues. As for making sure it's square, I measured the distance between the horizontal pieces to be equal and just positioned the frame to be 90 degrees to the picket boards. Worked out fine, and it's solid. Thanks for your comments!
@@PhilsDIY i see though you had a "jig" to make sure everything is squared up.. I have a damn car so whatever i fit in the trunk are the tools I am using haha
2 all the rookies, never put ur leg behind a skilsaw wen cuttn. i do it all the x but dont copy me lol
What size screws did you use
I used "Deck Mate" deck screws from Home Depot. I think they were #10, and 2" long.
@@PhilsDIY do you have any recommendations on screwing into concrete brick wall?
If it's concrete block, the kind that's hollow, you might want to use a toggle bolt in the part of the block that's hollow. I found that sometimes they can crumble easily when you drill into them. For smaller, light attachments I have used Tapcon concrete anchors that worked pretty well. Also from Home Depot. Otherwise, I would look at a masonry anchor system, like wedge anchors.
@@PhilsDIY thank you 🙏🏻
Quick easy access to many projects with Stodoys plans.