P-51D Mustang: How To Avoid Engine Damage Tutorial | DCS WORLD
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- Опубліковано 6 кві 2020
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#GRTutorial #DCSTutorial #P51D #Mustang #DCSWorld - Ігри
I was one of the members of the A2A rendition of the Mustang, and this translates well into DCS. A few tips, if I may which may also dispel some myths.
1) You don’t have to use 61 inches and 3,000 RPM for takeoff. A lot of guys used 55 inches. Further, rudder trim won’t help much for the takeoff run. That 6 degrees is for coordinated flight during max continuous during a standard climb.
2) Coolant and radiator flaps should generally be used in auto at all times, unless during emergencies or during certain shutdown procedures. The system is reading internal temperatures. I suppose you could cool the engine off a bit extra before aggressive maneuvering, but you’re perhaps only gaining yourself a few extra seconds at best. Being too cool however is a bad thing.
3) Cylinder head temperate and coolant temperature are king. Stay inside the limits and you can run her extremely hard. Stay fast, and keep that engine cool.
4) Often forgotten, but during heavy maneuvering you really need to consider fuel. Ideally, by the time you are getting into combat you want your drop tanks off and as much possible fuel removed from the aft tank. Modern air show pilots actually often remove the aft tank because the extra weight can cause the aircraft to be quite troublesome during aggressive maneuvers, especially noticeable in elevator authority. As a rule of thumb, run your tanks in this order: Drop tanks first, aft tank, then wings. Occasionally dip back into your left wing tank, since that’s where the vapor return line leads (if I recall correctly.)
5) The Merlin was notorious for overheating. I haven’t really seen it in game, but the engine should vent excess pressure and heat once the line hits about 110-120 degrees on the coolant. Either way, this was a problem that plagued many Merlin birds, and especially the early mark Spitfires, which only had one radiator flap. As mentioned previously, CHT and coolant temps are king. Keep them reasonable and you’ll be fine.
6) Another note about takeoff; keep tail low. There’s no need to go fully horizontal. Not only is the risk greater by going horizontal, keeping a tail low configuration with a bit of back stick and right aileron allows the plane to takeoff smoothly and almost on its own once she’s ready. I see a lot of guys in your videos yank her off the ground, and that’s the worst case scenario for a P-51. See next comment.
7) The P-51 was a touch notorious for rolling over during low speeds with very high torque. This is most noticeable during takeoff and landing. A lot of pilots killed themselves on the landing by a botched approach, followed by quick application of power or accelerated stall which causes a rolling motion. In your videos I’ve watched numerous pilots do exactly this, and roll over onto their back during takeoff and landing. Be smooth with her, and especially be careful at low speeds.
Thanks for the info Sir!
A lot of After-Acrtion-Reports say they ran combat power for 30 minutes, in this game it's 15 and it seems to shut off on the second, that's what I hate. I don't even know if 150 octane is implemented?
Small correction, 3000HP ? take off power is just under 1500hp at 61"
@@grafspeem9402 good correction. I meant RPM.
Takeoffs are not supposed to be suicide runs. Chill. Increase power slowly, line her up good. The runway is plenty long. You don't need to blow a gasket taking off. Crazy power settings will get you crazy torque and get you killed. Heavy? You gots tanks and stuff? That's what 10 degrees of flaps are for.
Just to add a little procedural engine health thing. When increasing power you want to - raise RPM first and then manifold pressure second. Do the Opposite when reducing power - lower manifold pressure first then lower RPM second. The idea is to avoid having to high a MP setting for a given in RPM.
Agreed. pushing up the MP with a low/less than full rpm is tantamount to trying to take off in a car in 4th gear.
@@Redryder79 it’s also just generally bad for harmonics and the engine. Good tip.
When playing around in the Mustang I would regularly seize the engine completely, I never got the loss of power but still functional failure.
In other news I got annoyed when they set limits on how cold you could set the air temp to based on the map and what month you had it set to. I would occasionally set it to -40 for the heck of it just to see how long you had to idle for the oil pressure to drop down to an even readable range, let alone to where it was safe to take off.
The engine rating placard showed at 3:50 is for V-1650-3 engine, DCS's P-51 is modeled with V-1670-7 which has higher power due to supercharger being gearded at lower ratios.
So -7 has more power but crit alt for low and high blower are lower.
this is correct. the information chart shown in the video has the altitudes for the -3 version, whereas the DCS P-51 has the -7 version of the merlin. the supercharger gear ratios in the -3 were optimized for higher altitude performance (bomber escort)
THANK YOU.
Even though its crazy cold at very high altitude the air molecules are much less dense so they run much hotter at high altitude especially turbo/ super charged engines
i had a failere by not switching tanks on time a was a bit to late and boem engine stopted .. could get it running either ???
Hi thanks for another very informative video. I’m new to DCS and am trying to do the basic campaign to learn to fly the P51D, but I can’t get above 13,000 feet even when supercharger kicks in! Can you tell me the engine settings to get to 20,000 feet so I can reach the last 2 rings please! Cheers
Great video, had a question regarding throttle control in a dogfight. Coming over the top of a loop, if I hang on the prop trying for the shot or simply dont have enough speed to fly the top of the loop and hang there a second before the nose drops and I can start picking up speed again, after an event like this I will lose the engine every time.
I've tried pulling rpm's and throttle back but that doesnt seem to save the engine from this type of failure.
any hints or tips would be greatly appreciated,
I might have to check setting again but I’m not going past redline anymore. Full throttle, full prop and it is fine. I haven’t been on in a couple months but see nothing on what changed. I’m curious if I lost performance with this.
On the right side of the cockpit its written what RPM and Mani to have it at :)
you forgot the part where you shouldn't run the engine in idle at high speed(like a dive)
Why not? What happens in DCS if you do this?
what? why it's the best way to cool the engine during a dogfight. Drop throttle pull back on prop a bit when diving. it gives you a bit more speed and cools the engine.
@@septimusthehoplite6384 it will damage the main bearings due to low manifold pressure, you can look it up on the forums
You’re causing the airflow to drive the propeller blade, which can damage the bearings. This is common in many propeller driven aircraft.
@@valkyrie321 That is absolutly correct! I am an flight engineer and i often get trouble with plane owners because they didnt care about engine management. But hey its not my money and i get a job XD
very useful after the end of the trial period
good vid tho
I am waiting on my new rig to come in and just picked up the mustang, is it worth it to go through the trouble of hooking up my complex prop throttles (throttle, mixture,prop) for the war birds?
Good information. Understanding that this comment is a bit past the scope of the video - IMHO, never fight your P51 below 200-IAS. If you do, make sure you have some altitude to recover some speed when that goes south on you. You can out turn a Spit (level) if you keep the fight over 220-kts. This helps to keeping air going across the coolers. Also the RAM air is your injector-carb inlet and is intended to be closed for icy or dusty conditions. It brings air either through the ram inlet or through a filter/heater box. Depending on the version, HOT air control set to HOT and cold air on UNRAMMED FILTERED. Didn't notice if these options are available. Be mindful of your climb rate, maintaining. Recommended I believe is 46" @ 2700 RPM at 165-kts...no sense cooking it up before the fight.
Can confirm. 46 and 27 is max continuous and you can run on that all day. 165 is best climb. And yeah, it likes to go fast.
the plack-ard of the pack-ard....
You can get away with 28 and 50'' in a straight line for quite some time, and sry cap but I open the rads 100% on TO and landing normally leave them there the whole flight unless it's really cold, 15 seconds hold will fully open or close the rads. Cheers all.
I used to do that for the 51 but after flying the other warbirds and coming back to the 51 I leave it in automatic. Learning more and more how to mange manifold and RPM to keep temps good.
You generally don’t gain any major advantage by manually opening them. As far as how far you can push the engine, the placard tells you factory specifications. The biggest consideration is watching your CHT and coolant, which means you can get away with a lot as long as you have good airflow.
@@valkyrie321 you hit the nail on the head 'with good air flow' easier said than done in many cases especially the common way fights go in the sim. And I'll disagree heavily with you that rads open with more horses on tap doesn't really matter. + even with the drag you have the benefit (like before unless it's really cold) of not having to watch your temps nearly as close. It's sad really the pony rarely gets to fly at her optimal altitudes online because up there she really is a pretty hassle free bird.
In the spitfire the BOOST is the pressure of the intake & supercharger in most all other piston aircraft its the exhaust MANIFOLD pressure. Same thing just in reverse
thx
Dora is very powerful compared to mustang
The best defense is a good offense
Anyway you can do the same thing for the Spit, I am playing the Big Show campaign, and am having issues with engine degradation, governor rpm failure, and fuel pressurization issues during climb out. The altitudes assigned are between 18-25k. Even on Rtb, I have the engine cut out on me with relatively normal Boost pressures and oil and coolant temp. I am obviously missing something and need help.
thx
Switch fuel pump on, it prevents fuel vapor accommodation in fuel system.
Hey Cap, love your videos! I'm currently downloading DCS rn for the first time and I'm wondering how I can play with keyboard and mouse. Is it practical? Any tips for hotkeys or key mapping a noob should know
possible but pretty shit without HOTAS. Get a cheap HOTAS asap
I just started playing dcs few days ago. First w/o joystick but soon realized it makes no sense. I bought new thrustmaster hotas for 100 euro. So that's considered a cheap but I enjoy it pretty much. About to build custom button box as soon as my wares arrive from ebay.
Also remember to switch the fuel tanks. They aren't interconnected
thx
Good and bad, you actually have to fly these planes! I love the F-18 but it’s like driving an automatic
One note. The automatic system controlling the two radiator doors seems woefully insufficient. If I know I'm about to get into a hard fight I'll crank both of those full open and that will permit you to push the engine a bit harder without risking melting it into a pool of metal. Can't do it indefinitely of course but it can give you a bit of an edge in a hard fight.
Not sure if it's modeled in DCS or not, but opening the radiator doors all the way will cool the engine too much and lead to reduced power.
@@rubiconnn I would agree with you, but again, this is when you pushing the engine HARD so it keeps the temps in the green in that situation. But yeah, as soon as the fight is over then switch them back to Auto.
The radiator doors are controlled by temperature as measured inside the system itself. It shouldn’t make much difference unless you’re trying to get the engine a bit more cooler BEFORE you begin heavy maneuvering.
@@valkyrie321 Maybe that's how it is supposed to work (probably is) but they never can seem to keep up and keep the engine cool during times when you are pushing the engine. I have found it safest to crank them open manually.
This is my recently discovered experience. Forcing the oil cooler open absolutely prevents overheats in hard dog fighting and take offs. I’m not sure if the model is correct. Otherwise I cannot sustain the recommended climb rates without overheating.
hi cap. im pretty close to walking away from dcs and just watching youtube vids. Do you or any of the guys know if there a way to give away all my steam modules?
I don't think they are transferable once used. What problems are you having?
Cheers buddy, not too worry, It was worth asking the question.
The problem im having? well, to coin your phrase, its probably very much a "me problem".. lol..
The flying part i find fairly easy. Free flight etc some tutorials, great no probs.. im finding everything else is an uphill race on a sunny day with ankle weights, bergan and thermols on.
Ive got maybe 80/90 % of the modules inc p47 and channel.
And realistically, after a couple of months im only able to use a very small percentage of it all. and only then in single player..
ive never used discord and dont know what to do or how it works.
if you still run tutorials and you have the time, id be interested. . cheers
Does anyone know the command to get the pilot out of an aircraft after shutdown in DCS World ? I have been searching since forever , I had it before and would use it whenever I flew the P-51D Mustang and the Spitfire LX-MK IX ...I've since built a New Gaming Pc and for the life of me I can't find it anywhere. any help will be appreciated immensely. thank you.
I believe you just bail out and it gets the pilot standing outside the plane. You can also “walk” using the keyboard (I think with the arrows??).
What is the difference between maximum continous and maximum cruise?
same
@@grimreapers ah ok thank you! Love your videos by the way.
Max cruise is for range. Max continuous is for power: climbing, crusing fast in the combat area, even fighting you can set it there until you need to punch it more. Max continuous the engine won't fail.
How do you zoom in in vr?
you cant
@@grimreapers oh well yeah I guess you just lean in.
Your comments on tank usage are bad. Here is what you do: Takeoff on left main. After take off, switch to the fuselage (rear) tank. Burn that SOB off. Then go to external tanks. Alternating every 10 minutes. BUT you can use your brain too. On a short mission, you know you don't even need those external tanks. You used to do those short missions in a Spitfire with only 85 gallons. You could use those externals and when you get into combat, jettison them and go on internals, stanndard procedure. Then what do you have? A big fat Mustang with too much fuel, heavy bugger. SO what you do is that after that fuselage tank in gone, burn a bit of internal fuel to put you into fighting trim. Once you're there, switch to external tank and you are ready for trouble. Trouble shows up, jettison the externals and you have a Mustang in fighting trim. Plenty of fuel to fight and get you home too.
omg
I couldn't tell what you were doing with stick and rudder during takeoff but the nose attitude tells me you may not have been pushing forward on the stick with a little right rudder to compensate for engine torque. Here's a real world example of how things should be done and how the forward view should look (if modeled correctly)... ua-cam.com/video/05GB8ET7DXU/v-deo.html
No...he just forgot to trim in 6 degrees of right rudder - and lock the tail wheel for the first part of the run.
@@johnmclean6498
The rudder is only one aspect of the takeoff roll that needs to be corrected here. It's equally important to push forward on the stick to get the tail wheel off the ground: number 1, so you can see out the front, number 2, so the plane builds speed faster and can takeoff sooner. He's keeping the tail on the ground which is why his takeoff rolls are so long and barely gets off the ground before obstructions. This video is only the latest in tail draggers that I've tried to explain this to him. Oh well, maybe someday he'll figure it out.
@@amax1229 Agreed on all. As soon as I get elevator authority I get the tail up and begin the "rudder dance" - which is minimal in this excellent aircraft. The Grim Reapers try to be all things in all aircraft to all simmers - sometimes to the loss of small important details. Their channel is an important part of our hobby though and has helped more than hindered. I think Cap should run these by Signore for input before posting ;-)
There’s a myth about the six degrees of right rudder... That’s only to help stabilize the aircraft for coordinated flight when at maximum continuous for climb out, not for takeoff. You still need an assload of rudder for takeoff. The key is being ahead of the aircraft, so you’re not reacting.
Also, one more thing, there’s no real reason to go horizontal with the aircraft on takeoff. Generally a lot of pilots (and some manuals) suggest a tail low configuration when taking off. So yes, get it off the ground, and add a touch of right stick with a bit of back pressure. She’ll takeoff when she’s ready.
Hello,
I'm sorry, because your videos are good but you put a "turbo" to speak and it is very difficult to get drunk and it is a shame.
Could you speak more softly because your videos are seen by many people and they must think the same ...
Thank you
Honestly I was happy to finally find flight sim youtuber who does not sound like he's about to pass out.