Dayton 408 DSP review
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- Apologies for the length of this one. Editing done on the iPad. Rough cut, but wanted to get the information available. The plan is to clean up and cut this video up and post it in parts. Please comment with any questions or suggestions. Thank you. Please subscribe as well if it's helpful.
no need to apologize for length... it helps us newbies. I used active cross overs back in the 90s and early 2000s. Always prefered active crossovers over passive... way more flexibility. I took the jump on this Dayton DSP and your video will surely help me set it up This was a great tutorial, thank you.
Wow five years ago. You nailed it. Here I am in 2023 thinking of DSP tuning for the PC Audio in my Man Cave. The DSP408 was the first serious consideration I had. You were right. I wanted to know how the GUI looked and worked. Your description of the whole operation was detailed enough to give any first time user a leg up. No more deer in the headlights. Good advice along the way too. Audio for anything is not my first consideration in life. Its not my hobby. Its just nice to have around with Music Streaming, Gaming, Movies. I think you pushed me over the top. The DSP 408 will be my new toy for awhile then I will just set it and forget it. Thank You Mr Pierce.
I cannot imagine the sheer amount of hard work put into the making of this video.Great work, Paul Pi3rce. Thanks
It was a lot but thank you for the positive response. The more people that are educated about these things the more will get back into it and that is better for everyone.
@@PaulPi3rce I have not touched car audio for about 8 years or so. I have a modest system in my truck, a couple of alpine 12s, 3 zapco amps, alpine mids and tweets, and the zapco sx-sl IIpreamp eq. I have not touched it since it was put in the truck. Last week decided to install a double din head unit so I can join this century as far as latest technology. The Pioneer head unit seems to have everything possible as far as dsp... would I benefit from this separate DSP? Would the sound be that much better? All I am doing is replacing the head unti and getting rid of the zapco.
I noticed a hum in mine as well. I use mine in my home system and as soon as I plugged it in I noticed a pretty distinctive buzz/hum. Without going into too much detail, the bottom line, it was the power supply that comes with the unit.
So I used a different/better power supply I had and the hum deceased by about 75%. If you're using this in your home I would recommend buying an Ultra Low Noise LPS HI-END Linear Power Supply for Audio, otherwise, you'll have to turn the main volume down quite a bit in the software to get most of the hum to go away. I also tried a ground loop isolator but that didn't help either.
Would you be so kind as to provide an Amazon link to the power supply you recommend? I recently the DSP-408 for a home audio application and would love to improve the existing unit
@@ts6640 it looks like they deleted my Amazon link, here's the name of the product. ifi iPower2 12V US. I just bought one it works great.
Thanks for demonstrating the noise from the remote. I bought the remote but it was out of stock - glad it was!
Thank you for this video. I've been on the fence about what DSP to get and you cant beat the price on the Dayton. Pulling the trigger now
FYI, the remote does work as a sub control. You have to use outputs 7 and 8 for subs. These outputs are tied to a remote function that is available by pressing and holding the knob while set to 7 or 8. I've had my 408 since day one and just learned this today (4-13-24)! The noise does suck. I still use mine but can't recall how I got it to clean up. The entire system works great overall now and I have no noise.
Thank you very much for taking the time to explain this DSP. It was very detailed for first time users, and believe me I had a ton of things wrong. This is the best review I’ve seen.
2:01 the look of betrayal on the cat’s face is priceless 😂
😂
Would like to add that using high level speaker input produces a thump when turning system off. Dayton recommends using a capacitor
Inline with tweeters for protection. That would be the only reason to use a line driver, which wouldn’t be too much added cost, as
you would really only need a 2 channel loc. This would only apply to an HU that doesn’t have rca outs. Good video!
marjohn77 I have a LC7i and the EQS (from Audio Control). Sounds like I’ll still need to keep the LC.
Amazing video. Thank you for spend time to explain all the setting.
I put this DSP408 in my Harley StreetGlide,,,(2017) Awesome the Bluetooth works great,,,,,software works great as well!!
I can't thank you enough for taking the time to do this. I just grabbed one for my F150 which already has a pretty nice system in it. I'm running Morel Tempo Ultra components (Alpine PDX-V9 amp and JL 12TW3) and while it sounds good, I always felt that it could be a lot better. Since every thing sounded descent and this would be my first "real" DSP, I was a little intimidated and a lot worried that I was gonna make it worse rather then better. After seeing your video, the intimidation factor is zero. I can't wait to get this thing running and start playing with it now.
Did ypu install it already?
Nice little DSP, let me go 4 channel active for the fronts, mids only for the rear and 7 and 8 for my sub, the link feature is really nice, I can make changes to two channels at once, also of note, if you have a ported sub set you HP filter to where you want your subsonic filter to be. You can also sum all your inputs for the sub so it always has signal if you use the fader and will get a non filtered input
Excellent work, thank you for your efforts!!
thank you for taking the time great review!
Hi Paul, thanks for the review, nice unit for the money. I only wish, I could load measured FR of the drivers and see how x-o type and EQ affects their FR and summed FR. Theoretically it could help given the delays are correct. My friend wrote Frequency Allocator many years ago, a PC DSP soft for USB cards before hardware based DSP could be produced cheaply. The Allocator allows inputing FR and displays modified FR for each driver and their sum, accept only for correct delays as it doesn't take phase shift into account.
"Single best modification..." I have to agree. IF you understand what you are doing, you can squeeze amazing performance from disparate drivers. I am having a blast tweaking some old pro-quality 3-way PA drivers and a DIY B&C-based pro cinema sub---all powered by the power amp section of an older Onkyo 7.1 AVR---to achieve some of the best sound I have ever experienced in both frequency and time domains, at a system cost of about $650 (not including program source device) thanks to the DSP-408 and Craigslist bargains. Essential to success is to have drivers with sufficient dynamic capabilities (inertial properties... what I call "ballistics") to take advantage of the inherent time-domain superiority of active DSP crossovers. The result is amazing imaging (with the right recordings) and the ability to readily discern the quality of a recording (a mixed blessing) for its potential to "bring it".
Great review, I wish this had 6 inputs, I currently run a android head unit, active 3way up front, rear 6.5 mids for fill, then sub.. I may try this out, I want the audio control 608 or the 810 might be over kill
I just wonder how good this all works with an android head unit
tankdog03 you can sum more inputs and add as many as 8 outputs. If you only had a single input you still can have 8 outputs.
Hi my friend is been 6 months or so since you make this video how is the performance of the DSP and sound quality is worth it to give a tray?
Great review I just ordered one of these and I was wondering how well does the direct streaming work?
Thanks very much....helped me decide on DSP....if you could increase the sound level even better...thanks again
it would be great if you did a video using the REW software as you described in this video.
Will this DSP accept high level inputs and sum them if i wanted to integrate from my factory speaker wires that come off the factory amp?
Did you listen to it with the engine running? Some other reviewers (not videos) mentioned hearing substntial noise when the engine ws running.
this was a huge help, Just the crossover theory alone in this helped alot
Just a little added info. I have but a new system in my new to me, Corvette. I am using a Joying Android unit and it does not have a volume KNOB. It has a touch screen volume control that is a little annoying. That remote knob from he DSP is a life savor as I can turn the volume up and down using the knob vs the annoying touchscreen. Also, can you comment on how much "Better," a system would sound using the digital out into a different dsp vs the rca outs into this dayton dsp?
This is very helpful...thanks
Does this help the rca output level to amp? My atto has low voltage on the rca out
I got one of this and try in to use in my car but, how I can get music on my outputs? I connect everything and still no sound I don’t want a woofer on any of my outputs I just want this for my midrange and tweeters all 8
Nice review. Thanks a bunch.
Been doin car stereo for 20 years always ran passive crossover boxes. Never really understood active until your video! Good description of how to set the crossover! Can you link channel 1 and 2 together, for example: since they are both tweeters, So you don’t have to set channel 1 and 2 independently? Then go back to inputs and just click left and right for each channel, to save time? For 150 dollar dsp makes me want to try, vs the jl and audison prices.
Yes you can link any channel to another in the DSP but if you are doing active than you might want to EQ each one separately to the driver with a microphone and REW so they are balanced.
Thanks
I know this video is very old but maybe you can have some insight for me...
When you turn the DSP on does it has a popping sound? (I assume your power amp is on fully volume - so does it make this strong boom sound when it turns on?)
How do you turn the beeping sound off
oh and btw...if it was 2 hours long this is very informative...no apologies needed
You may not actually see this, but if you do I would love some input. I didn't get a chance to watch this whole thing and just in case you went over it. I think it's cool it was long because it means you put a lot of work into it, but I just didn't have time, I have been interested and almost pulled the trigger anytime Dayton, but just hadn't. Lately I read a lot more reviews about people saying that the Dayton introduced a lot of engine noise. So now I'm actually looking into the Cadence model. I actually still would like to purchase the Dayton, did you come across any issues with interference from engine noise or other?
where are you supposed to mount that giant volume knob?
IKR!!!
Just got my DSP 408. You are doing the time delay all wrong. Confirmed using REW, The inch measurement is "inch delay" not actual distance. Very important.
My Alpine 149BT is the same way. But gonna try DSP now. My home theater, and my old alpine 7897 uses actual distances. So your furthest speaker/sub will have no delay ,and closest are gonna have the highest delay numbers. I prefer this way, as REW spits out the inch delay when using the alignment tool. Also Sub alignment is verry different.. You're gonna wanna slide the time alignment slider in REW to find the predicted level at crossover point that looks best.. if the number on the sub is negative, you need to add delay to the other speakers.
So how can I use the delay on this DSP without rew? Thank you
Thanks for the vid. So running this in a car when using my stock speaker inputs for sound into the Dayton DPS, should I buy sumin to go in front of it to boost signal?
Hi Paul. Can you tell me why instead of crossing the sub at a much steeper slope, to keep out the mids, you cross at 24 db?
Best place to put the dsp? Near amp or near source? Which output is best used to the dsp, front, rear or sub?
GOOD VIDEO...
For delay, i deduct each driver measured distance from the furthest driver distance. The final input would be just zero for the furthest driver( Reference point, nearer drivers are delayed relatively) . It works well or my ears are just blown after tuning the dsp for several hrs??
Please, man..
The Cat, the freaking poor Cat, Dont call him stupids.. 😥
Also try the Pionere DEQ-S1000A, something similiar but supplier, for anybody out there who would like something supplier.
Thanx Paul 👍👍👍
Anyone having " File Data Error" when DSP hookup to a PC(window10)? Presets created and saved on PC offline when retrieved and eventually saved to DSP, cannot be loaded back to PC. I notice that the channel "LINK" tabs will be lost too if you continue using the DSP app on PC despite the "FDL" It's the same story with Bluetooth connection!!!
Anyone can help??? Thank you.
Problem solved!!! New problem after installed in car. Factory High level wiring is wrong, input 3&4 is 1&2 !!! Whinning noise is horrible.
For the Data file error, you just use the Remote controller to launch any of still available 5 presets into the DSP before connecting to Windows. Once "Transmission" is successful, do a factory reset from the DSP Windows's topleft dropdown menu. Everything should be fine, including Bluetooth. I hope this can work for your unit too.
But I wouldn't know what else can be done if you dont have the RC.
If you contact Parts Express I believe they are aware of these issues and will help you with it. I have not had that problem with mine but it depends on the software release/update version too.
Great video! Just installed one in my car. Only problem now is that I get a "turn off pop" in my speakers. Any suggestions? Thanks
Very good review, thank you for time and expertise.
Can you just use 2 RCA for input and use the 8 channels out ? Thanks
Thanks so much
Could you comment on Bluetooth streaming functionality of this Dayton dsp? Hows the streaming quality compare iOS to Android to physical inline aux? Is it able to stream BT audio and physical inputs simultaneously. For example using phone navigation or speakerphone while listening to the radio from the HU? Thanks in advance!
So if I’m running multiple amps and speakers is this DSP not a good option
what is the advantage/disadvantage of just setting all of your input levels to 100 and having them all go to each output. So channels 1-6 getting 100% of each of the 4 inputs, except for lets say output 7 and 8 which would be sub channels. Or giving the sub channels 100%of each input channels as well. ty.
Well you will lose any surround effect that comes from left and right channels if you sum them together. You also won't be able to use your fader/balance if all channels get all the input signals
Hi Paul good day, I'm new to DSP and I know nothing about it, but i want try and experience awesome some. I already have my audio set up with pioneer avh 4200 nex / dayton audio 408 / alpine pdx f4 for my tweeter and 3.5inch mid high and hertz HDP5 for 6.5 mid bass and 12inch sub ..(now running 3way active plus sub). I already purchase umik 1 with USB and downloaded REW but. I can't find on the internet a diagram how to / were to connect rew to send signal on my speaker can you help me with it...looking forward, thanks
How would you hook up front, rear, and sub using just the four inputs? Can you use y rca connectors or can you do it without?
You set it in the DSP software to send the input signalmto whatever output channel you want.
I cant stop laughing! The cat at 2:00. Pushing him off the table! lol
Hi Paul. Great video very helpful. How do you add the shelf filter you mention at 43.45. Thanks.
Under your LP or HP filter type box you select the Butterworth filter, which is your shelf filter because the slope is abrupt and close to the 3 db down point vs the Linkwitz Riley or Bessel filters which use a more gradual slope and the Linkwitz Riley filter is also down 6 db at the crossover point vs 3db. For the subwoofer you would use a low pass butterworth filter. Just experiment with it and try 12 db vs 24 db to hear how it blends with your mid woofers and choose the one you like the best.
PaulPi3rce thank you.
@@WitnessTheSickness99 you have to tick the box on 1 and 10, I use these on my sub only,
We are here for the DSP not the cat. Lol
great video. best info for this dsp I've seen anywhere online. How do I go about setting my gains for my 4ch and mono amp with this dsp? Plz and thank you.
I set my monoblock with a DVM to the RMS rating of the sub and then level match the midbass and tweeters with the gains on the 4-channel amp after DSP EQ so that they are matched to the output of the sub and each other. This gives me the lowest possible noise floor.
@@PaulPi3rce Thx. So you only use 1 input channel per output channel then? I tried that and even when at full volume, each output of the dsp measures nowhere near 3.5volts. Is that ok to do? I'm only asking because I was under the impression that the higher the voltage going into the amp the better. The only way I can get 3.5volts going out of the dsp is to assign all 4 inputs to each output at 100% and at full volume. Actually the volume of the dsp is at 58 cuz it clips after that. Am I missing something here? If so, can someone please put me on the correct path?
@@mpeezy358 gain is relative to the input, it's a ratio, the the hotter the signal going in will result in a hotter signal coming out, but that's what the gain on the amp is for, find your max input level (volume on the source) that is clean, then adjust the gain on the DSP outputs to it's max level clean, then adjust the gain on your amps to the max clean level, use test tones to do this, you can get special tools to find the clipping point, you can not do this with just a DMM, you need either a Oscope or a distortion detector, don't just depend on your ears either.
@@charleswp71 Thank you.
@@charleswp71 that's not entirely true, you can get pretty close using just a DMM. It won't be exact, but neither will a distortion detector like the one SMD sells. Now an oscilloscope will be, but then again who has 3k just laying around for and oscilloscope
I wonder if the noise is from the LED's in the remote? Or, maybe the cable?
I would use this with a stock 4runner nav unit. Would this work to de-eq the source, or would you use a JL FIX before the Dayton? I would like some of the additional functions and outputs of the TWK 88 or the Dayton over my Audison Bit Ten. Thanks in advance.
The Dayton 408 does not undo the factory EQ, so using the FIX is the perfect solution, which I have and it works awesome. The FIX also undoes the factory time alignment too, which was more of an issue for me before the FIX was installed. If you are new to DSP's, than the JL Twk 88 is hard to beat but like I say in the video, you can get the same results with the Dayton. Some factory HU's do not have as much factory EQ as others. For example, the factory HU in my Mazda does not but the one in my Ford does and the FIX for me was the only solution. I tried to undo it with the Twk alone and had all kinds of trouble with the bass. The FIX was worth it to me.
@@PaulPi3rce Thanks. I do have an Audison Bit Ten. I just want to see if the investment is worth it. Looks like it would be about $550 with the Dayton and FIX 86. I just didn't know if it's worth it yet. I was thinking about waiting and getting the FIX82 and the new JL VXi amps to get a power upgrade with the DSP built in. I could run fiber optic from the FIX to each amp for ease and SQ. But now we're talking over a couple grand...... Decisions decisions.
Running a Digital Optical Output would be nice and eliminate any possible noise, but is not necessary with good RCA's. The Fix 86 gives you more output channels and equalizers than the Fix 82, useful for future upgrades and multiple DSP's or amplifiers. The higher end JL amplifiers with built in DSP are really nice, but as you say they are huge money and honestly I don't think worth it for car audio. I mean sure they sound great and save space but $700+? I have run many different amplifiers from top of the line Pioneer and Alpine to lower end Pioneer and JBL club series, to middle ground infinity amplifiers, and there is no real SQ difference as long as its a decent brand. I have heard a small difference among cheaper brands though. To be honest I think buying anything more than a $300-400 4 channel amplifier is a waste of money so long as its a decent brand. If I swapped my Pioneer D8604 with a much more expensive 100 wpc JL and didn't tell you than I bet you wouldn't even notice if the gains were all set the same. If I were you, I would get the JL Twk 88 and JL FIX 82 or 86 with a Pioneer D8604 (125 watts x4 on dyno) for the 4 channel and JBL GTX 500 (800 watts on dyno) for a 500 watt sub or Pioneer D9601 if you need a 1 ohm stable 1200 watt mono amp. Soundqubed SI series are also decent for the money and Wolfram Audio has some excellent amplifiers for the money.
I just let a friend from work demo my truck who has been into car audio for as long as me. He has a system that he spent lots of money on but no DSP. I have stock ford mid woofers (yes stock 6*8 woofers from Ford but they are bandpassed 80-2600), Tang Band home audio tweeters in stock location (A pillars) from parts express ($25 ea), and a Sundown SD3 subwoofer in a custom ported box tuned to 31 Hz (really awesome SQ sub). I have a Pioneer D8604 and JBL Club 5501 for the sub and there is nothing special about these amplifiers (other than they sound good and are under rated). I tuned this system using my FIX 86 to integrate with the factory radio and a JK Twk for DSP duties. When he auditioned my system I didn't tell him what speakers I had or what amplifiers I have, and after listening for just 5 minutes, he was floored and awe struck by how good it sounds. He was even more in disbelief when I showed him what the equipment was that I was running. This proves its all in the tune and install. My doors are fully deadened along with other acoustic treatments in the cab. He now wants to buy a DSP and have me tune his system once he gets the time, which I will. I have much more higher end speakers (Focal, SB Acoustics, and Sundown) with higher end amplifiers and aftermarket radios with DSP's in my other two vehicles and the results are the same or better. In fact I'm installing the Dayton DSP in my van right now and typing to you while I eat my supper, LOL.
You can try and de-eq the stock Toyota HU with some success but you will not get the same results as you would with a JL FIX 82 or 86, I know I've tried.
@@PaulPi3rce I know this post was some time ago, but if you still have your Ford, check into a free software program called Forscan. I have a 18' F150 and have used Forscan to make several changes to the factory modules, including the Audio Control Module. I was able to flatten the signal and convert it from high level to low level with just a few taps on a keyboard. Google it, you'll find a ton of info on it and you can make A LOT of awesome adjustments and modifications with it.
What laptop is that?
Can I use two dayton for 16 channels
Can’t help if your cats a basshead
Seriously, the price point vs. sound reproduction quality...am I wasting money? Thanks
Man heck no..... Sooo every time i need to make any adjustments to the dsp. I got to break out the laptop. Lol!!! No way, prv all the way
Hi can it crossover higher than 24db thanks
No
great video but i have a question about where it says or has a letter Q...what does that mean?.
Myron Howell it is the Q factor or Q band. Basically how steep or tight of an EQ peak you are applying. When you see on the screen the EQ that looks like mountains, that's equalizing the frequency response across the audible range to be balanced and "flat"
Hey Paul I was thinking about adding a line driver to the processor do you think it's a good idea
David,
You do not need to do that because the DSP has high level inputs and with 3.5 volts output should be plenty to drive any amplifier.
Thanks
How the sound?
It sounds just as good as my cars with the JL twk 88 DSP's, basically awesome.
TLDR. Was it the or bad?
why would you need to run cables from the "Sub," output on the head until into inputs 3 and 4 on the dsp? Couldnt you just use the 1 and 2 inputs of the dsp since the dsp is going to filter out the frequencies above whatever range you set? Why use additional RCAs to send another signal to the dsp?
It lets you control sub level directly from the head unit rather than thru a menu level.
You could also do it that way but by running from the sub pre out of the HU to the DSP and then from the DSP to the amplifier you get the extra sub controls afforded/built into the HU also. In my case I can turn up or down the level for the subwoofer separately from the HU because I wired it this way.
I do the same with my dumb ass cat. Love him, but he's an asshole too, lol.
Can you run bass through these?
Never showed all the noise it produces
By chance u figured out what causes the noise?
So the question is, should I get this DSP or is there a reason to go with something more expensive like an JL TWK or Audison processor?
1 year late but yes it is worth it to get something better. I bought this thing and its is a total POS, riddled with issues from awful humming noise, to poor user interface, to downright awful audio quality through it. 0/10 would not recommend at all. MiniDSP 2x4HD is a good option, but it only has 4 outputs and I need at least 5 for my system.
Who got murdered in the background (scream) at 46:04 and 46:41?
:)
Kids fooling around in the background making the wife angry which prompts her to look for me making this video and get angry at me because I'm not helping her so then the car audio fun has to wait another year. :)
@2:00 lolll
What is the latest software version?
that is a dan goood question that I posed directly to the manufacturer. They claim there are "newer" version(s) but their insightful wisdom compels them to ask for my email address via eBay messages... SMDH.... its going to be returned tomorrow.
These clowns cant figure out how to send me firmware/software (Ive bought directly from them numerous times in the past. Their sales manager and I have a shared folder in our respective google drives) then I am done. I hope that tax credit for hiring common-sense challenged employees is worth the lost business.
The time to return my unit is
CS47048-DQZ along with a supporting cast of TI, ST, and even a little bios chip not out of place in a modern computer motherboard. I already returned the unit I was duped (as in actual support from the vendor was included) into buying. My curiosity has taken hold and I am trying to get my hands on the "Manager toolkit" from Cirrus Logic to see how difficult it would be to make an interface for this unit native to: msix, Android, maybe an atmel or esp32? It shouldn't take much but I do have quite the assortment of more powerful RISC SoCs. Maybe stick to porting it from CS to react or arm7 bc everyone has an extra raspberry pi laying around. I mean like 3 or older.
Let me clarify my comments were towards a similar unit from another OEM. I do plan on buying one of these Daytons as soon as the money hits my account. Unless they want to give me a demo?
How's the SQ
Just as good as my JL
Can barely hear you.
BOOORRRIINNGGG!!!!!!
Does the 31 band eq on the JL dsp makes it better than the Dayton dsp or its just the SQ of the JL is better??
The JL Twk has the same 10 band parametric EQ per a channel as the Dayton 408. They have the same tuning ability per channel with the JL having a little more finer adjustments. The JL has differential balanced inputs and a better more accurate interface with a slightly higher output voltage so it is slightly better in terms of SQ on paper. The quality of your amplifiers, installation, and RCS's cables will probably make more of a difference in SQ than the DSP between these to. The software for the JL is much better for a novice in my opinion so easier to learn.
so it goes head unit to dsp to amplifiers pre amp input?
Thank you so much for the reply.
I'm new to the world of dsp and having trouble in choosing between the dayton or the hertz h8?
What you suggest me to pick in terms of better SQ and customisation?
Yes, HU output to DSP input and from DSP output to amplifiers input. Running active with a 4-channel amplifier, one channel goes to left tweeter, one to the right tweeter, one to the left midwoofer, and one to the right mid woofer. The subwoofer, if you have one, gets its own channel and of course amplifier as well. Be careful not to accidentally run a full range signal to your tweeters or to use a high pass filter that is too low (lower than 2500) or you will blow the tweeters. adding a cap as I described in the video is a good way to protect that from happening.
I have no experience with the Hertz DSP. Since you are new to the world of DSP's and I have experience with the JL twk 88, I highly suggest you use the JL twk 88. It is designed and geared toward the novice like yourself but has all the capabilities of the best out there.
Why be mean to the cat what kind of person are you….
Poor CAT :0(
Cat is fine, gets taken care of very well by me. I play with it, rub its belly, and feed that cat every day. Its always following me around trying to climb up on me for more attention.
@@PaulPi3rce LOL I had a feeling just a cat lover myself !
You can't have a channel about audio and not know how to set levels for recording your own voice.
The noise you are getting is due to the fact you are using less than par RCA cables. One has to view any Coax cable to have the capability to reject noise in the form of radio waves which would help in your case. The Volume knob that came with it is pulling power through the telephone cord where the noise is coming from that your RCA cables are picking up typically. You have to have RCA cables that have LOW capacitance which is important for noise rejection. Lower that 50pf per foot is typically one needs to aim for. stating that it is a noisy system in your video does not depict that the next person will have this issue.
I would agree that not everyone will have noise but it is noted as an issue with my setup. The RCA cables I have are actually fully shielded high quality cables for the highs and midrange drivers where the noise came from. Please also note that when I swapped my JL Twk DSP back to back with Dayton DSP, using the same cables and the JL remote attached, that there was no noise at all from the JL DSP. The fact that there is power running through the Dayton remote (also the JL remote) and that it may be emitting some kind of EMF is not going to change the fact that its a $150 DSP and people who buy this DSP are not going to buy mega buck RCA cables. To conclude, I would say that its also a design issue on Dayton but that overall the Dayton DSP is an excellent budget DSP and I have achieved fantastic results with it. I will also note that when measuring for time alignment with this DSP that I get got millisecond results that were way off so I had to calculate and input the millisecond times directly into the DSP to get it right.
I have extremely good RCAs & I have the same issue... Even swapped out & tried several different pairs, different lengths, brands (I have about 20 different pairs of RCAs from basic cheap 1s to gold plated, shielded exspensive 1s)... Its something to do with the DSP remote knob, you unplug the knob and the noise disappears...
@@csmitchell1113 Can the DSP still work fine without the knob?