Normally most channels in car audio are all about BASS. Al though I was a bass head in younger years I AWALYS wanted my stuff to full of bass but with a emphasis on SQ. I recently found your channel and love how talk about SQ often. I also love how you give price budgeting advice
I Agree with everything he said ^^^ I'm really liking your channel alot & subbed as well.Im building a SQL sounding system & constantly changing & rebuilding my systems speakers,every so often when I feel like tryin for alot better improvements soundwise.I'm now on my 2nd dsp rightnow got the helix.3s.I Can honestly say I truly think I will not be gettin rid of it anytime soon!! It's AWESOME DSP.Sounds Way way better than the JL audio twk 88 I had previously installed in my truck.😮
The Dayton 408 was my first DSP. Cheap, simple to learn and sounded good buuuut...the noise floor was horrible. Had a constant noise/hiss out of the box. Been running Helix for about three years now and will never go back. I've heard great things about AD. I mean really, it's just how much are you willing to spend and are you willing to put in the time and effort to learn how to properly tune or find someone that knows what they're doing to tune it for you. Just be careful with some of these car audio shops, some of them have no clue but will tell you they do to get your business. Ask for a demo in a car they have tuned, if they don't have one or give some excuse, walk out the door.
I saw from someone else that the hiss was present because of the control knob, once he unplugged the knob the noise went away. Not sure if you were experiencing the same thing ?
@@tallnrough68 This is true and was verified by multiple Dayton DSP-408 users. But I believe that Dayton finally made some revisions to the unit to fix this issue. Even so, the Dayton unit barely puts out 2v to the RCA preamp outputs, which is on the same level as just budget aftermarket head units. Anything with better SQ and internal components will put out At Least 4v from its RCA Outputs. The S/N Ratio on the Dayton is low as well, so you will inherently have a higher noise floor/more background hiss. You can't really complain given the cost of this unit, but between its shortcomings and the rudimentary software, I would advise to save a bit longer and buy something better. Second-hand/used JL Audio TwK88 DSPs or even some of the older HELIX units are very affordable on the second-hand market, and I would HIGHLY recommend EITHER of those based on their build quality, features/functionality, support, and especially the SOFTWARE! In addition, the miniDSP C-DSP 8x12 v2 is $500 Brand New, and you have the option to add DIRAC LIVE processing at any time. But it is an Excellent 8-In/12-Out DSP and comes with the OLED Remote, though without the DL option the software is fairly basic. But it gets the job done and has everything you need to produce a high quality SQ system. I use this miniDSP in one of my vehicles and am extremely happy with it. And I know several IASCA, MECA, EMMA, & MASQ SQ competitors that use it as well and have placed in the Top 3 winning spots, so there's that.
Another excellent "entry level" DSP that has an AUTO-TUNING system which INCLUDES the Measurement Microphone are the KICKER KEY200.4 and KEY500.1, and they also have built-in 4-channel & Mono Subwoofer AMPLIFIERS respectively as well. These are under $280 Each!
A few years back, my zapco dsp had taken a shit so, i needed a new.dsp and came across Audio Dynamics. I had gotten their 8 channel dsp with optical input and i found out very quick that it was not only identical to the dayton audio dsp but also had the exact same shitty floor noise. I am talking about a buzz that can be heard and wont go away no matter what you did... after a few months, i sold it and went with a Helix DSP.3 and never looked back... my next dsp i plan on getting soon is a goldhorn P5 DSP ULTRA ..it comes with 16 channels, 2 x ES9038Pro DAC, and has a built in DSD player ... a SQ dream machine
It goes seemingly unnoticed stateside, but I love my imported ESX d68sp. Next system I build will likely get a QL812SP because of how much I love the d68sp. I almost feel like the domestic gatekeeper of how great they are, but you asked to share... 😉
@@RAW_Reality The ESX QL810SP & QL812SP have just as good of specs as the Audiotec-Fischer HELIX Ultra S, but not quite the full feature set or functionality of the HELIX. But in regards to SQ alone, the top ESX models are way up there.
@@bbfoto7248 My thanks for looking up specs, as most people just claim a certain brand's "superiority" without even looking into it. But yes, here (where I am) the brand ESX isn't known to just about anyone, so (having done my research) I imported the 8ch for my present build and try to impress with it (because it's *not* a Helix). So I'm not in full need of every bell and whistle, just what'll make it sound good, and it does that great! (And with 30% less cost).
I've used the Dayton, a Hertz H8, and most recently, the JL TWK-88. I prefer the parametric capabilities vs fixed Q, multi-band equalizers. I don't see the value in having more than 10 bands of parametric per channel. If you need that, your system is fundamentally broken an should undergo revamp on the installation side. Every change in EQ results in phase shift which is a two-edged sword. I do like the all-pass option discussed as it can move some pesky standing wave issues and help resolve nulls/peaks in the listening area. These things have spoiled me rotten.
Yes, and those are all AWSOME DSPs. However, most folks that are interested in those guys, are making a LARGE investment in the hardware, and know EXACTLY what they want. also honestly I shop for features, not namebrands. shopping for namebrands is a trap that can cost you a lot and not net you good return on your investment.
@CarAudioEnthusiats You didn't mention one of the most important specifications and limitations of the Dayton DSP-408, and that is that it only Outputs a 2v preamp signal via its RCA outputs. In fact, it is more like just 1.83v before they begin to clip. This means the DSP-408 will have a higher background noise floor (hiss) and will not be as immune to inducted RFI & EMI noise (alternator whine, etc.) that is potentially picked up through the RCA Interconnect cables. It also doesn't perform its internal processing in Hi-Res, and is only "CD Quality". But this isn't really a big deal unless your music collection is mostly Hi-Res recordings (which IMPO are useless for a PLAYBACK system once the music has been properly mastered).
Same, but I started with the previous Sony Mobile ES CDX-C910 head unit + the XDP-210EQ. The C910 also had the Digital Output like the C90. But after just a few months I caught the SQ bug, and upgraded to the CDX-C90 + XDP-4000X DSP. I still had this setup installed in one of my "old school" systems until just recently. The 3-way front stage used Peerless XLS8 midbass, Diamond Audio Technologies (D.A.T.) 1st Gen HEX 5.25" midrange, and Hiquphon OW1 tweeters. Two Infinity BETA 15X subwoofers in 1.75cf sealed each. Powered by ARC Audio 4150cxlr & 2500cxl, and Xtant 301a amplifiers. The Sony CDX-C90 + XDP-4000X DSP still held their own against my much more modern HELIX DSP ULTRA, but the XDP-4000X was a PITA to tune via its old archaic software and DB9 Serial Port connection!
Was looking at that as well... awesome dsp. I'm torn cause the marts is in my budget but the auto tune on the ad stuff is so nice lol being broke is rough in the audio world
Hi friend! I hope you can give me your opinion. I was using an audison bitone.1 and then it went to valhalla. Now i need a new DSP. My options here are Helix mini dsp and alpine pxe-0850x for similar price. Any other option is way over my budget. I run a morel hybrid ovation 6 2way kit and a jl 10w6v2, so i dont really need more than 6 or maybe 8 channels. The car is a ford fusion with sync 3. Which one would you choose between the Alpine and Helix? Thanks man!!! Very nice channel!!!
adcaraudio.com/store/product/addsp68-at-auto-tune-dsp/ i cant speak on the alpine or helix, but i CAN speak on this one, ive been running the 6 channel version of this for 3 years
Do you think my system would benefit from a DSP? ALPINE CDE265BT HEAD UNIT WHICH has 9 band eq with time correction. 4 Polk mm265 door speakers, kicker cxa360.4 and kicker cxa400.1, 1 sundown e10 in t line box. The only thing I can think that the DSP would help is who knows if the settings painted on the amp is accurate
@c0uchsl0uch Just about ANY system will benefit from using a decent DSP. BUT ONLY IF it is PROPERLY set up and "Tuned" by a knowledgeable professional, or if it has a proven "Auto-Tune" function. Even these "Auto-Tune" units require you to set up the Crossovers PROPERLY, which extremely important. HOWEVER, your aftermarket car audio equipment MUST be PROPERLY installed. In addition, the use of high quality Sound Deadening/Sound Treatment products are Highly Recommended in order to Minimize any Vibrations, Buzzes, Rattles, and Resonances throughout the vehicle. WHY? Because when a Measurement Microphone is used to measure and "Tune" your system with the DSP, it will NOT be able to get ACCURATE measurements for your system IF it picks up Any Noises other than the actual music that your system is playing. IF you've spent at least $1000-$1500 for a decent aftermarket stereo system and it includes a DSP, there are several Professional Tuners who can Set Up & Tune your system REMOTELY for $400-$600. Trust me when I say this will completely TRANSFORM the performance of your system...at least if you have decent/capable gear and it is installed PROPERLY with good sound deadening. This might seem too Expensive, but it is well worth it!!! WHY??? Because you are completely WASTING ALL of the money you spent to have the DSP in your system unless it is PROPERLY Set Up & Tuned by someone who TRULY understands exactly what they are doing! What you get for your money: One of the gentlemen who offers this REMOTE TUNING SERVICE is Jeffrey Hald from MTI/Mobile Toys in College Station, TX. This is one of the Premier High End Car Audio shops in the entire U.S.A. Jeffrey is a multiple SQ Competition CHAMPION in IASCA, MECA, EMMA, & MASQ organizations. So he is a true PROFESSIONAL who knows exactly what he is doing and you will not be throwing your money into the wind. He uses the JL Audio MAX Tuning System to perform his measurements and apply all of the adjustments to the DSP. Jeffrey Hald's Remote Tuning Service is called, "TOTAL TUNING USA" and you can find him on Facebook, or just search Online for "Jeffrey Hald Total Tuning USA".
I’ve got a major issue. Trying to find a dsp that fits my 2019 Challenger GT. It comes with no amplifier . I was told to use Rockford Fosgate Dsr1. After installing, no sound. Any suggestions?
ive ran a good amount of ds18 gear, had a hooligan 15 and hooligan 3.5k on it, solid combo. also the ds18 SQ series of amps are solid. their lower end subs sound pretty good, but dont handle rated power.
I been thinking about getting a dsp but really don't know much about them. I only have a sub amp as of now but will be putting a 4 channel on my door speakers soon and was thinking of getting a dsp. I also don't Hava a after market radio jus a line out converter assuming I would come out of the loc and into the dsp then out the dsp to my sub amp and 4 channel mids/highs amp. I know my bass is gonna be over powering my door which is why I'm need to put a 4 channel on them and figured a nice dsp would really bring out my sytem so you think either of these you shown will be good for my system?
most DPSs have high level inputs, so you wouldnt need the LOC at all. Personally , im bias, Id use the AD64AT because i have been using one for about 4 years now. but they are out of production. this one can still be had, but youll need to get it soon adcaraudio.com/store/product/addsp46/
@@CarAudioEnthusiasts cool that I wouldn't need a loc cuse the loc I have now is jus for my subwoofers. I plan on getting a 4 channel amp for my door speakers and would need a wavetech link 6 if I added 4 channel along with my subs. But if I go ahead and get a dsp you saying I will not need the loc for my 4 channel and my sub amp? The shop near me sells AD products so they should have knowledge on there dsp products and how to install and set them up correctly cuse I have no clue how to get the high level inputs into the dsp or do I know how to set one of those things up with all the EQ settings and other features it has. I was looking at that ADDSP68 dsp that's $599 you think that is a well worth the money dsp to go with? I figured by going with a dsp it will make my sytem sound alot better and have highs and mids coming out of my door speakers and jus bass out my subs since I have a 2020 ram 1500 crew cab and installed jus 2 subs with a wavetechDQ 2 ch loc and seems I still have bass coming from my doors speakers and it jus doesn't sound like I'm use to since I always had a radio that had rca outputs on the back of the cd/radio Bluetooth player and had control with some eq settings on it. Gonna be upgrading my sub in the next few months and will have to add a 4 channel to my doors so might as well get a dsp to really bring out my system. The audio control 608 I heard was a good easy to navigate dsp as well.
Dumb question... the DSPs with a volume knob.. will my volume knob on my head unit still work or is that bypassed? Id prefer to use the one on the HU for total volume
@LMN22 There are no dumb questions, and yours is actually a very important one when it comes to choosing a good DSP! A good Remote "Volume Knob" for any decent DSP will provide at least 4 useful functions: 1. Master Volume Control 2. Subwoofer Level Control 3. Tuning Presets Selection 4. Source/Input Selection Number 1 is Important for Two Reasons. First, it allows you to set your OEM or Aftermarket Head Unit's Volume to it's Maxium Output/Volume Level BEFORE it begins to Clip (distortion). Setting your Source to it Maxium Output Level before it begins to Clip provides your system with the Best Signal-To-Noise Ratio, which minimizes Background Hiss & Noise through your speakers. You would then ONLY use the DSP's Knob as your Master Volume Control, because using it instead of the Head Unit's Volume Knob will ALWAYS keep the head unit's output signal (or any other analog output source) at its best S/N RATIO. The Second Reason is if you plan to use a Digital Source as your Input to the DSP. The majority of Digital Output Signals (either Toslink Optical or Coaxial via a single RCA cable) always play at their FULL OUTPUT or (-0dB). If you do not have a Remote Knob for your DSP, there is No Way to Control the Volume Level of a Digital Source. Number 2: This allows you to easily control the Subwoofer Level without having to install or run extra wires for a separate "Bass Knob" that usually comes with the Amplifier for the Subwoofer (or may be an optional purchase for the sub amp). Number 3: This Allows you to Program & Select Multiple Tuning "Presets", for instance if you have a Convertible vehicle you can program a "Top Down" & "Top Up" tune, as the settings will need to be drastically different. Or you might have a "Family Driving Tune" with less bass if you have infants or young children in the car, or a "Bump-in-da-Trunk" preset with extra bass output for when you are commuting or driving alone, and then a "Competition" preset for SQ or SPL competition. Number 4: You might want to use different Sources in your system. You might use the OEM Head Unit for general listening and for Hands-Free Bluetooth Calls. And you might also want to connect a portable DAP ("Digital Audio Player", i.e. a modern iPod) via its Digital Output to your DSP, or your Smartphone connected to a USB DAC/Bridge device such as the SMSL PO100 or Topping DS10, which then connects to your DSP via the Digital Inputs (or Analog if you choose). Usually the "Tuning Presets" in #3 above will also allow you to program which Source to use for that preset. So again, having a "Remote Knob" for your DSP can be both IMPORTANT and very USEFUL. Many of the newer Remote Knobs for DSP have built-in LED lights that allow you to program the Color they display when you have chosen specific Presets or Sources...Helix "Conductor", Gladen/Mosconi "Gladiator", and Audison Forza "DRC-AC" remote knobs. HTH!
@@LMN22 TBH, when you use a DSP unit in that upper class or tier level, the SQ you achieve will have MORE to do with the Quality of the Speakers, Subwoofer, and How Well they are INSTALLED, including using high quality Sound Deadening products to minimize any Buzzes, Rattles, Vibrations, or Resonances in the cabin. Any noise that is produced within the cabin that is not from the actual sound of the speakers and subwoofer(s) themselves can seriously detract from the Imaging, Soundstage, and Dynamics performance of the system. I'm lucky enough to own and drive several different vehicles and I'm currently using a different DSP in each one, LOL (I like to test things for myself to see what I like best). ;) In my different vehicles I am currently using a miniDSP C-DSP 8x12 DL, an Audiotec-Fischer HELIX DSP Ultra, and a Gladen/Mosconi AERO 8|12 DSP. ALL of these systems sound Incredible WHEN they are PROPERLY Tuned. It's just the Features and Software that are a bit different between them, but they all "get the job done". The only significant differences between some of the DSPs is what FEATURES & FUNCTIONALITY they have in order to deal with OEM head units or amplifiers that cannot be replaced or where the owner wants to keep the OEM Head Unit. But otherwise, again, the QUALITY of the Speakers, Subwoofers, and how well they are INSTALLED will make a much larger difference than the DSP itself, and the same goes for the Quality of the TUNING! Top Notch TUNING using a basic DSP will blow away any "high end" DSP that is not PROPERLY Tuned. I can't stress this ENOUGH! If you spend $1500-$2000 or more on an aftermarket stereo system that includes a decent DSP, do yourself a favor and HIRE a true PROFESSIONAL to Set Up, perform Measurements, and Tune the DSP for your system! This will cost between $400-$600 but can be done REMOTELY by several professionals, and the Results will be NIGHT & DAY! Look up Jeffrey Hald from MTI/Mobile Toys Inc in College Station, TX. His Remote Tuning Service is called "TOTAL TUNING USA" and you can find him on Facebook or just Search Online. If I can't do the Tuning myself, I can count on just One Hand how many so-called "Tuners" I would trust to do it for me! Jeffrey Hald/Total Tuning USA and Nick Apicella of ResoNix Sound Solutions are 2 of the people I would actually trust and pay to do a Remote Tune on any of my systems. This is speaking from many years and lots of direct experience with DSPs and high end car audio systems dating back to the 1990's.
Looks like my previous comment was deleted. 🤷♂ $800 is approaching HELIX DSP money, which I would choose over almost ANY other DSP. You can find the HELIX units in excellent used condition for even less from people who upgrade to the latest/highest model. For a Universal Measurement microphone that includes both a standard On-Axis and 90-degree Off-Axis Calibration file that we use for Measuring car audio systems and Tuning, pick up the miniDSP UMIK-1 or the newer UMIK-2 USB measurement microphone.
You often feel like you can’t ever get that perfect sound. I have a Lexus Es350 stock radio cannot be replaced My set up Radio-Audio Control LC7I-Alpine Amp (Infinity Mids and Highs) then the other split is to a Kicker Amp to three Infinity 1000s 10s sealed Been debating on DSP for recreating better sound
the ad68at would be great for you man adcaraudio.com/store/product/addsp68-at-auto-tune-dsp/ also grab this if you want a master volume and bass control at your fingertips adcaraudio.com/store/product/dsp-kc-stealth-mount-knob-controller-for-at-auto-tune-dsps/ this dsp can auto tune it self, and does a pretty good job! of course you can also do it manually. @@julesbruchez-theartofgrapp9646
Also should look into the d-10s or smsl po100 pro for streaming true hi-res audio from tidal on cellphone to d-10s back to your dsp is awesome and alot cheaper than buying a dap player like the fiio m11 or hiby R6!! For dsp but if you or someone is wanting the BEST dsp that I'm seeing at the SQ Competitions that all the pro's are using would be HELIX,Arc audio & Mosconi aerospace Dsp's...
I think if we are gonna spend $$$ big Money for hi-end stereo systems installations and equipment in our cars,Then we should do the research on how to stream HI-RES audio too!! Bc makes no since to have a hi-end system installed and then ride around only streaming shitty quality bluetooth/ carplay compressed music files!?? Like I was doing before I did my own research on what's needed to stream Hires music digitally with either toslink or coax,rca analog cables from dap or cell phone directly into the Dsp system.Listening to flac lossless or MQA music quality files from say tidal or quobuzz,amazon music,apple is night day difference man between it and say cd quality or bluetooth music.Trust me!
I am currently going through this dilemma about which DSP is right for my car . Because of my limited knowledge I bricked a DM 810 keep in mind it was an older model and now out of warranty before amp global. My technician is advising me to go helix, what is your viewpoint on that product
Can you explain how you have wired your DSP? You mentioned you have 6 channels out but i noticed you have a 3 way front stage and subs. Is your sub channel not running through your DSP?
Hello, I’m a new subscriber, old to car audio (which means I’m old as well). However, I noticed you skipped over the Audio Dynamics ADDSP68-AT which I purchased for my system but haven’t installed yet, I’m in the very beginnings of the construction. What do you think the pros and cons are for that model. I needed all 8 channels out because I’m building a 3 way with sub. Thoughts?
it is a great dsp! i skipped it because it has the same specs as the 4/6 just 2 more channels. my thoughts are get this adcaraudio.com/store/product/dsp-kc-stealth-mount-knob-controller-for-at-auto-tune-dsps/ lets you have a volume and bass knob up front!
Thanks for the reply,I asked because I have a install shop trying to sell me the Gzdsp pro over the Jl twk88 which I can get used for cheaper.Is the Gzdsp that much better to justify the higher price tag.Im new to the world of DSP 's any insight would be much appreciated.Thanks
I’m dumb. Since I have a THX-equipped Navigator, it’s been a nightmare properly tuning my truck. So where does the DSP go? Between my THX headunit and Audio Control LC7i? Or between LC7i and amps? Help. 😊
dsp goes between LC7i and ampilifers. but the dsp most often can replace the L:C7I (aka Loc ) completely. If the DSP has high level inputs, and signal summing, it can replace the LOC since its built in. However since you already have a LOC you can get about any dSP. Id recommend www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/digital-signal-processors/dm-810/ if you want to take the LOC out of the system, (cause the dm810 CAN do everything) or you can add the DM810 after the LC71. Good thing is That DSP can grow with you it's quite feature rich and can solve many issues.
Which one do you recommend for me I have a 24 Silverado with the factory head unit but I don't have the upgraded bose system find daily driving the truck but I wanted the sound the best it possibly can for what I have
There are a few variables, but a LOC or line output converter from your front speakers should give you a full signal, then any dsp would work, however the JL tweek would be able to work without an LOC, and handle signal summing. But the loc + less expensive dsp combo would be cheaper. Personally I'd still go JLTweek.
Normally most channels in car audio are all about BASS. Al though I was a bass head in younger years I AWALYS wanted my stuff to full of bass but with a emphasis on SQ. I recently found your channel and love how talk about SQ often.
I also love how you give price budgeting advice
thankyou!!
@@CarAudioEnthusiasts I also like how to your opinion feels real not bought.
I do my best to be honest with my reviews or opinions. Thankyou!
I Agree with everything he said ^^^ I'm really liking your channel alot & subbed as well.Im building a SQL sounding system & constantly changing & rebuilding my systems speakers,every so often when I feel like tryin for alot better improvements soundwise.I'm now on my 2nd dsp rightnow got the helix.3s.I Can honestly say I truly think I will not be gettin rid of it anytime soon!! It's AWESOME DSP.Sounds Way way better than the JL audio twk 88 I had previously installed in my truck.😮
The Dayton 408 was my first DSP. Cheap, simple to learn and sounded good buuuut...the noise floor was horrible. Had a constant noise/hiss out of the box. Been running Helix for about three years now and will never go back. I've heard great things about AD. I mean really, it's just how much are you willing to spend and are you willing to put in the time and effort to learn how to properly tune or find someone that knows what they're doing to tune it for you. Just be careful with some of these car audio shops, some of them have no clue but will tell you they do to get your business. Ask for a demo in a car they have tuned, if they don't have one or give some excuse, walk out the door.
Which helix dsp are you running.
I saw from someone else that the hiss was present because of the control knob, once he unplugged the knob the noise went away. Not sure if you were experiencing the same thing ?
@@tallnrough68
This is true and was verified by multiple Dayton DSP-408 users. But I believe that Dayton finally made some revisions to the unit to fix this issue.
Even so, the Dayton unit barely puts out 2v to the RCA preamp outputs, which is on the same level as just budget aftermarket head units. Anything with better SQ and internal components will put out At Least 4v from its RCA Outputs.
The S/N Ratio on the Dayton is low as well, so you will inherently have a higher noise floor/more background hiss.
You can't really complain given the cost of this unit, but between its shortcomings and the rudimentary software, I would advise to save a bit longer and buy something better.
Second-hand/used JL Audio TwK88 DSPs or even some of the older HELIX units are very affordable on the second-hand market, and I would HIGHLY recommend EITHER of those based on their build quality, features/functionality, support, and especially the SOFTWARE!
In addition, the miniDSP C-DSP 8x12 v2 is $500 Brand New, and you have the option to add DIRAC LIVE processing at any time. But it is an Excellent 8-In/12-Out DSP and comes with the OLED Remote, though without the DL option the software is fairly basic. But it gets the job done and has everything you need to produce a high quality SQ system.
I use this miniDSP in one of my vehicles and am extremely happy with it. And I know several IASCA, MECA, EMMA, & MASQ SQ competitors that use it as well and have placed in the Top 3 winning spots, so there's that.
Another excellent "entry level" DSP that has an AUTO-TUNING system which INCLUDES the Measurement Microphone are the KICKER KEY200.4 and KEY500.1, and they also have built-in 4-channel & Mono Subwoofer AMPLIFIERS respectively as well. These are under $280 Each!
A few years back, my zapco dsp had taken a shit so, i needed a new.dsp and came across Audio Dynamics. I had gotten their 8 channel dsp with optical input and i found out very quick that it was not only identical to the dayton audio dsp but also had the exact same shitty floor noise. I am talking about a buzz that can be heard and wont go away no matter what you did... after a few months, i sold it and went with a Helix DSP.3 and never looked back... my next dsp i plan on getting soon is a goldhorn P5 DSP ULTRA ..it comes with 16 channels, 2 x ES9038Pro DAC, and has a built in DSD player ... a SQ dream machine
I'm thinking of going with the Helix DSP.3S as well. Are you running yours active or with the passive crossovers?
I can see your whole house in your glasses!😂
It goes seemingly unnoticed stateside, but I love my imported ESX d68sp. Next system I build will likely get a QL812SP because of how much I love the d68sp. I almost feel like the domestic gatekeeper of how great they are, but you asked to share... 😉
Very cool!
@@CarAudioEnthusiasts
Keep the secret. 🫢😉😅😋
@@RAW_Reality
The ESX QL810SP & QL812SP have just as good of specs as the Audiotec-Fischer HELIX Ultra S, but not quite the full feature set or functionality of the HELIX. But in regards to SQ alone, the top ESX models are way up there.
@@bbfoto7248 My thanks for looking up specs, as most people just claim a certain brand's "superiority" without even looking into it. But yes, here (where I am) the brand ESX isn't known to just about anyone, so (having done my research) I imported the 8ch for my present build and try to impress with it (because it's *not* a Helix). So I'm not in full need of every bell and whistle, just what'll make it sound good, and it does that great! (And with 30% less cost).
I've used the Dayton, a Hertz H8, and most recently, the JL TWK-88. I prefer the parametric capabilities vs fixed Q, multi-band equalizers. I don't see the value in having more than 10 bands of parametric per channel. If you need that, your system is fundamentally broken an should undergo revamp on the installation side. Every change in EQ results in phase shift which is a two-edged sword. I do like the all-pass option discussed as it can move some pesky standing wave issues and help resolve nulls/peaks in the listening area. These things have spoiled me rotten.
Helix is what I roll with
Can never go wrong with Helix if you can afford it
@@LMN22 Yea, it was expensive..lol
@tycolemansr.6540 I bet lol it's on my wish list
First time watching this channel. Great content!
Ps. Just subscribe to the channel as well.
Welcome aboard!
It’s the one you can afford 👍
I missed Zapco, Helix, Brax and Audison on this list…
Yes, and those are all AWSOME DSPs. However, most folks that are interested in those guys, are making a LARGE investment in the hardware, and know EXACTLY what they want. also honestly I shop for features, not namebrands. shopping for namebrands is a trap that can cost you a lot and not net you good return on your investment.
I like my jl twk88. Easy to use
@CarAudioEnthusiats
You didn't mention one of the most important specifications and limitations of the Dayton DSP-408, and that is that it only Outputs a 2v preamp signal via its RCA outputs. In fact, it is more like just 1.83v before they begin to clip.
This means the DSP-408 will have a higher background noise floor (hiss) and will not be as immune to inducted RFI & EMI noise (alternator whine, etc.) that is potentially picked up through the RCA Interconnect cables.
It also doesn't perform its internal processing in Hi-Res, and is only "CD Quality". But this isn't really a big deal unless your music collection is mostly Hi-Res recordings (which IMPO are useless for a PLAYBACK system once the music has been properly mastered).
New DM-810 owner here.
Why did you go with the audiocontrol over others?
@@jonathansch444 I got a good deal on it from my friend
I have a expert px2r it's probably might not be too good but if it works it works I guess (commented before watching)
My first dsp was the Sony ES xdp210eq with the cdxc-90 20 bit burr brown cd player with a copper chassis. It was a very capable dsp back in the day!
Same, but I started with the previous Sony Mobile ES CDX-C910 head unit + the XDP-210EQ. The C910 also had the Digital Output like the C90.
But after just a few months I caught the SQ bug, and upgraded to the CDX-C90 + XDP-4000X DSP. I still had this setup installed in one of my "old school" systems until just recently.
The 3-way front stage used Peerless XLS8 midbass, Diamond Audio Technologies (D.A.T.) 1st Gen HEX 5.25" midrange, and Hiquphon OW1 tweeters. Two Infinity BETA 15X subwoofers in 1.75cf sealed each. Powered by ARC Audio 4150cxlr & 2500cxl, and Xtant 301a amplifiers.
The Sony CDX-C90 + XDP-4000X DSP still held their own against my much more modern HELIX DSP ULTRA, but the XDP-4000X was a PITA to tune via its old archaic software and DB9 Serial Port connection!
Helix
Marts digital 8 for $110.00 amazone...8 channel, bluetoth, etc.
Was looking at that as well... awesome dsp. I'm torn cause the marts is in my budget but the auto tune on the ad stuff is so nice lol being broke is rough in the audio world
Audio Control D6.1200 amp ..build in DSP ❤ it
thats a good one!
I run the dayton and im happy with it but i wanna get a 31 parametic band eq and somenof the more advanced features as well
in my amp 5.1k and dsp bitone says made in italy, ibougt them seweral years ago and brax and helix are german made
Any thoughts on the Musway D8.
Nice i have the audison bit nove dsp
AWESOME!
Hi friend! I hope you can give me your opinion. I was using an audison bitone.1 and then it went to valhalla. Now i need a new DSP. My options here are Helix mini dsp and alpine pxe-0850x for similar price. Any other option is way over my budget. I run a morel hybrid ovation 6 2way kit and a jl 10w6v2, so i dont really need more than 6 or maybe 8 channels. The car is a ford fusion with sync 3. Which one would you choose between the Alpine and Helix? Thanks man!!! Very nice channel!!!
adcaraudio.com/store/product/addsp68-at-auto-tune-dsp/
i cant speak on the alpine or helix, but i CAN speak on this one, ive been running the 6 channel version of this for 3 years
Do you think my system would benefit from a DSP?
ALPINE CDE265BT HEAD UNIT WHICH has 9 band eq with time correction.
4 Polk mm265 door speakers, kicker cxa360.4 and kicker cxa400.1,
1 sundown e10 in t line box.
The only thing I can think that the DSP would help is who knows if the settings painted on the amp is accurate
YES.
@c0uchsl0uch
Just about ANY system will benefit from using a decent DSP. BUT ONLY IF it is PROPERLY set up and "Tuned" by a knowledgeable professional, or if it has a proven "Auto-Tune" function. Even these "Auto-Tune" units require you to set up the Crossovers PROPERLY, which extremely important.
HOWEVER, your aftermarket car audio equipment MUST be PROPERLY installed. In addition, the use of high quality Sound Deadening/Sound Treatment products are Highly Recommended in order to Minimize any Vibrations, Buzzes, Rattles, and Resonances throughout the vehicle. WHY? Because when a Measurement Microphone is used to measure and "Tune" your system with the DSP, it will NOT be able to get ACCURATE measurements for your system IF it picks up Any Noises other than the actual music that your system is playing.
IF you've spent at least $1000-$1500 for a decent aftermarket stereo system and it includes a DSP, there are several Professional Tuners who can Set Up & Tune your system REMOTELY for $400-$600. Trust me when I say this will completely TRANSFORM the performance of your system...at least if you have decent/capable gear and it is installed PROPERLY with good sound deadening.
This might seem too Expensive, but it is well worth it!!! WHY??? Because you are completely WASTING ALL of the money you spent to have the DSP in your system unless it is PROPERLY Set Up & Tuned by someone who TRULY understands exactly what they are doing!
What you get for your money:
One of the gentlemen who offers this REMOTE TUNING SERVICE is Jeffrey Hald from MTI/Mobile Toys in College Station, TX. This is one of the Premier High End Car Audio shops in the entire U.S.A.
Jeffrey is a multiple SQ Competition CHAMPION in IASCA, MECA, EMMA, & MASQ organizations. So he is a true PROFESSIONAL who knows exactly what he is doing and you will not be throwing your money into the wind. He uses the JL Audio MAX Tuning System to perform his measurements and apply all of the adjustments to the DSP.
Jeffrey Hald's Remote Tuning Service is called, "TOTAL TUNING USA" and you can find him on Facebook, or just search Online for "Jeffrey Hald Total Tuning USA".
@@bbfoto7248 the car was wrecked, no more wheels ☹️
@@c0uchsl0uch
OH MAN, I'm sorry to hear that! :(
Hopefully you were able to save and keep all of the stereo gear from it for a future vehicle.
@@bbfoto7248 yes most of it, a few things were still within the return window, yes had the system completed literally hours before the wreck
Arc audio is a DSP with extreme amount of power
yup Ive heard them they are impresive
Audiocontrol d-4.800 for 200 off of Facebook market. Just got it my other on i got 5 months ago like new with box for 300
sweet deal!
You find another one of them deals please pass that along to me
The Audio Control DM-810 also has a PEQ EQ option
Factory radio via high level to Lc7 to dsp to amps..is that a good setup
Dd dsi3
I’ve got a major issue. Trying to find a dsp that fits my 2019 Challenger GT. It comes with no amplifier . I was told to use Rockford Fosgate Dsr1. After installing, no sound. Any suggestions?
Helix, Arc, Audison, Mosconi, Audiocontrol, JL, Sony and others all make amplifiers with varying degrees of DSP processing, Google is your friend.
Audson , helx, high end for sure 12ch
I feel like you left out a lot of stuff on the Dayton dsp... wired control knob that doubles as a bass knob for the sub channels, bt streaming, etc.
And it has variable slopes on the crossover up to 24db
Ds 18 dsp 8.8bt looks promising for the money but slot of people hate on the brand but havnt ran there higher end stuff like the hooligan ko amps?
ive ran a good amount of ds18 gear, had a hooligan 15 and hooligan 3.5k on it, solid combo. also the ds18 SQ series of amps are solid. their lower end subs sound pretty good, but dont handle rated power.
I been thinking about getting a dsp but really don't know much about them. I only have a sub amp as of now but will be putting a 4 channel on my door speakers soon and was thinking of getting a dsp. I also don't Hava a after market radio jus a line out converter assuming I would come out of the loc and into the dsp then out the dsp to my sub amp and 4 channel mids/highs amp. I know my bass is gonna be over powering my door which is why I'm need to put a 4 channel on them and figured a nice dsp would really bring out my sytem so you think either of these you shown will be good for my system?
most DPSs have high level inputs, so you wouldnt need the LOC at all. Personally , im bias, Id use the AD64AT because i have been using one for about 4 years now. but they are out of production. this one can still be had, but youll need to get it soon adcaraudio.com/store/product/addsp46/
@@CarAudioEnthusiasts cool that I wouldn't need a loc cuse the loc I have now is jus for my subwoofers. I plan on getting a 4 channel amp for my door speakers and would need a wavetech link 6 if I added 4 channel along with my subs. But if I go ahead and get a dsp you saying I will not need the loc for my 4 channel and my sub amp? The shop near me sells AD products so they should have knowledge on there dsp products and how to install and set them up correctly cuse I have no clue how to get the high level inputs into the dsp or do I know how to set one of those things up with all the EQ settings and other features it has. I was looking at that ADDSP68 dsp that's $599 you think that is a well worth the money dsp to go with? I figured by going with a dsp it will make my sytem sound alot better and have highs and mids coming out of my door speakers and jus bass out my subs since I have a 2020 ram 1500 crew cab and installed jus 2 subs with a wavetechDQ 2 ch loc and seems I still have bass coming from my doors speakers and it jus doesn't sound like I'm use to since I always had a radio that had rca outputs on the back of the cd/radio Bluetooth player and had control with some eq settings on it. Gonna be upgrading my sub in the next few months and will have to add a 4 channel to my doors so might as well get a dsp to really bring out my system. The audio control 608 I heard was a good easy to navigate dsp as well.
Mosconi, helix ? I'm looking at a Mosconi right now.
either one, both great dsps
Dumb question... the DSPs with a volume knob.. will my volume knob on my head unit still work or is that bypassed? Id prefer to use the one on the HU for total volume
yes you can treat one volume knob like a gain.
@LMN22
There are no dumb questions, and yours is actually a very important one when it comes to choosing a good DSP!
A good Remote "Volume Knob" for any decent DSP will provide at least 4 useful functions:
1. Master Volume Control
2. Subwoofer Level Control
3. Tuning Presets Selection
4. Source/Input Selection
Number 1 is Important for Two Reasons. First, it allows you to set your OEM or Aftermarket Head Unit's Volume to it's Maxium Output/Volume Level BEFORE it begins to Clip (distortion). Setting your Source to it Maxium Output Level before it begins to Clip provides your system with the Best Signal-To-Noise Ratio, which minimizes Background Hiss & Noise through your speakers. You would then ONLY use the DSP's Knob as your Master Volume Control, because using it instead of the Head Unit's Volume Knob will ALWAYS keep the head unit's output signal (or any other analog output source) at its best S/N RATIO.
The Second Reason is if you plan to use a Digital Source as your Input to the DSP. The majority of Digital Output Signals (either Toslink Optical or Coaxial via a single RCA cable) always play at their FULL OUTPUT or (-0dB). If you do not have a Remote Knob for your DSP, there is No Way to Control the Volume Level of a Digital Source.
Number 2: This allows you to easily control the Subwoofer Level without having to install or run extra wires for a separate "Bass Knob" that usually comes with the Amplifier for the Subwoofer (or may be an optional purchase for the sub amp).
Number 3: This Allows you to Program & Select Multiple Tuning "Presets", for instance if you have a Convertible vehicle you can program a "Top Down" & "Top Up" tune, as the settings will need to be drastically different. Or you might have a "Family Driving Tune" with less bass if you have infants or young children in the car, or a "Bump-in-da-Trunk" preset with extra bass output for when you are commuting or driving alone, and then a "Competition" preset for SQ or SPL competition.
Number 4: You might want to use different Sources in your system. You might use the OEM Head Unit for general listening and for Hands-Free Bluetooth Calls. And you might also want to connect a portable DAP ("Digital Audio Player", i.e. a modern iPod) via its Digital Output to your DSP, or your Smartphone connected to a USB DAC/Bridge device such as the SMSL PO100 or Topping DS10, which then connects to your DSP via the Digital Inputs (or Analog if you choose). Usually the "Tuning Presets" in #3 above will also allow you to program which Source to use for that preset.
So again, having a "Remote Knob" for your DSP can be both IMPORTANT and very USEFUL. Many of the newer Remote Knobs for DSP have built-in LED lights that allow you to program the Color they display when you have chosen specific Presets or Sources...Helix "Conductor", Gladen/Mosconi "Gladiator", and Audison Forza "DRC-AC" remote knobs.
HTH!
@bbfoto7248 very informative, thank you. Any preference between the ones you've mentioned at the end there?
@@LMN22
TBH, when you use a DSP unit in that upper class or tier level, the SQ you achieve will have MORE to do with the Quality of the Speakers, Subwoofer, and How Well they are INSTALLED, including using high quality Sound Deadening products to minimize any Buzzes, Rattles, Vibrations, or Resonances in the cabin.
Any noise that is produced within the cabin that is not from the actual sound of the speakers and subwoofer(s) themselves can seriously detract from the Imaging, Soundstage, and Dynamics performance of the system.
I'm lucky enough to own and drive several different vehicles and I'm currently using a different DSP in each one, LOL (I like to test things for myself to see what I like best). ;)
In my different vehicles I am currently using a miniDSP C-DSP 8x12 DL, an Audiotec-Fischer HELIX DSP Ultra, and a Gladen/Mosconi AERO 8|12 DSP.
ALL of these systems sound Incredible WHEN they are PROPERLY Tuned. It's just the Features and Software that are a bit different between them, but they all "get the job done".
The only significant differences between some of the DSPs is what FEATURES & FUNCTIONALITY they have in order to deal with OEM head units or amplifiers that cannot be replaced or where the owner wants to keep the OEM Head Unit.
But otherwise, again, the QUALITY of the Speakers, Subwoofers, and how well they are INSTALLED will make a much larger difference than the DSP itself, and the same goes for the Quality of the TUNING!
Top Notch TUNING using a basic DSP will blow away any "high end" DSP that is not PROPERLY Tuned. I can't stress this ENOUGH!
If you spend $1500-$2000 or more on an aftermarket stereo system that includes a decent DSP, do yourself a favor and HIRE a true PROFESSIONAL to Set Up, perform Measurements, and Tune the DSP for your system!
This will cost between $400-$600 but can be done REMOTELY by several professionals, and the Results will be NIGHT & DAY!
Look up Jeffrey Hald from MTI/Mobile Toys Inc in College Station, TX. His Remote Tuning Service is called "TOTAL TUNING USA" and you can find him on Facebook or just Search Online.
If I can't do the Tuning myself, I can count on just One Hand how many so-called "Tuners" I would trust to do it for me!
Jeffrey Hald/Total Tuning USA and Nick Apicella of ResoNix Sound Solutions are 2 of the people I would actually trust and pay to do a Remote Tune on any of my systems.
This is speaking from many years and lots of direct experience with DSPs and high end car audio systems dating back to the 1990's.
That 6 8 hifi is nice but dayum 800 is high not too mention you gotta buy the mic too.... but im gonna need one lol
its a really nice dsp
Looks like my previous comment was deleted. 🤷♂ $800 is approaching HELIX DSP money, which I would choose over almost ANY other DSP. You can find the HELIX units in excellent used condition for even less from people who upgrade to the latest/highest model.
For a Universal Measurement microphone that includes both a standard On-Axis and 90-degree Off-Axis Calibration file that we use for Measuring car audio systems and Tuning, pick up the miniDSP UMIK-1 or the newer UMIK-2 USB measurement microphone.
I Enjoy your videos, but what about the helix
Helix is magical, I just skipped the extreme stuff because people with Helix taste likely know more than me anyway! lol
Timpano dsp TPT-SP4BT
You often feel like you can’t ever get that perfect sound.
I have a Lexus Es350 stock radio cannot be replaced
My set up Radio-Audio Control LC7I-Alpine Amp (Infinity Mids and Highs) then the other split is to a Kicker Amp to three Infinity 1000s 10s sealed
Been debating on DSP for recreating better sound
The answer is YES
@@CarAudioEnthusiastsso should replace the AC LC7I with DSP but I need 6 input
the ad68at would be great for you man adcaraudio.com/store/product/addsp68-at-auto-tune-dsp/
also grab this if you want a master volume and bass control at your fingertips adcaraudio.com/store/product/dsp-kc-stealth-mount-knob-controller-for-at-auto-tune-dsps/ this dsp can auto tune it self, and does a pretty good job! of course you can also do it manually.
@@julesbruchez-theartofgrapp9646
Also should look into the d-10s or smsl po100 pro for streaming true hi-res audio from tidal on cellphone to d-10s back to your dsp is awesome and alot cheaper than buying a dap player like the fiio m11 or hiby R6!! For dsp but if you or someone is wanting the BEST dsp that I'm seeing at the SQ Competitions that all the pro's are using would be HELIX,Arc audio & Mosconi aerospace Dsp's...
I think if we are gonna spend $$$ big Money for hi-end stereo systems installations and equipment in our cars,Then we should do the research on how to stream HI-RES audio too!! Bc makes no since to have a hi-end system installed and then ride around only streaming shitty quality bluetooth/ carplay compressed music files!?? Like I was doing before I did my own research on what's needed to stream Hires music digitally with either toslink or coax,rca analog cables from dap or cell phone directly into the Dsp system.Listening to flac lossless or MQA music quality files from say tidal or quobuzz,amazon music,apple is night day difference man between it and say cd quality or bluetooth music.Trust me!
Arc Audio PS8-PRO DSP
solid dsp
I am currently going through this dilemma about which DSP is right for my car . Because of my limited knowledge I bricked a DM 810 keep in mind it was an older model and now out of warranty before amp global. My technician is advising me to go helix, what is your viewpoint on that product
Helix makes a great DSP, If cost isnt a real issue, I would use what ever your Tech is used to tuning.
Can you explain how you have wired your DSP? You mentioned you have 6 channels out but i noticed you have a 3 way front stage and subs. Is your sub channel not running through your DSP?
My a pillars the mid and tweet are on a passive crossover, I DSP them as a set
Makes sense. Thank you.
Best still Are Helix and audison also Brax rest Are cheap Chinese crap
ELETTROMEDIA who makes audison and hertz has several china build houses, sorry man China makes everything.
I believe the Audio Control DSP's are made in the USA.
Hello, I’m a new subscriber, old to car audio (which means I’m old as well). However, I noticed you skipped over the Audio Dynamics ADDSP68-AT which I purchased for my system but haven’t installed yet, I’m in the very beginnings of the construction. What do you think the pros and cons are for that model. I needed all 8 channels out because I’m building a 3 way with sub.
Thoughts?
it is a great dsp! i skipped it because it has the same specs as the 4/6 just 2 more channels. my thoughts are get this adcaraudio.com/store/product/dsp-kc-stealth-mount-knob-controller-for-at-auto-tune-dsps/ lets you have a volume and bass knob up front!
I bought my DSP volume control about a week ago. I can’t wait to install it. I also bought the HD Bluetooth dongle at the same time.
youll love them!
Anybody familiar with the Ground Zero gzdsp pro x6-8 Opinions debating buying,Thanks
My friend has installed them, i ask him how they are going, he said they do a great job, and he's had 0 issues with GZ DSP's
Thanks for the reply,I asked because I have a install shop trying to sell me the Gzdsp pro over the Jl twk88 which I can get used for cheaper.Is the Gzdsp that much better to justify the higher price tag.Im new to the world of DSP 's any insight would be much appreciated.Thanks
if the tweek is in good shape id run it, IMO its one of the best DSP's theyre great.@@paulio3
Thanks
Looks like you got cold.
Not really, just dealin with medical issues
@@CarAudioEnthusiasts hope u get well soon
well, that's complicated. but itll take a bit to find out.
I’m dumb. Since I have a THX-equipped Navigator, it’s been a nightmare properly tuning my truck. So where does the DSP go? Between my THX headunit and Audio Control LC7i? Or between LC7i and amps? Help. 😊
dsp goes between LC7i and ampilifers. but the dsp most often can replace the L:C7I (aka Loc ) completely. If the DSP has high level inputs, and signal summing, it can replace the LOC since its built in. However since you already have a LOC you can get about any dSP. Id recommend www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/digital-signal-processors/dm-810/ if you want to take the LOC out of the system, (cause the dm810 CAN do everything) or you can add the DM810 after the LC71. Good thing is That DSP can grow with you it's quite feature rich and can solve many issues.
@@CarAudioEnthusiasts thank you
Which one do you recommend for me I have a 24 Silverado with the factory head unit but I don't have the upgraded bose system find daily driving the truck but I wanted the sound the best it possibly can for what I have
There are a few variables, but a LOC or line output converter from your front speakers should give you a full signal, then any dsp would work, however the JL tweek would be able to work without an LOC, and handle signal summing. But the loc + less expensive dsp combo would be cheaper. Personally I'd still go JLTweek.
@CarAudioEnthusiasts Thanks alot I'll look into the jl