Remove a Broken Exhaust Manifold Bolt - EASY in 15 Minutes! No Disassembly!
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- Опубліковано 10 жов 2024
- This is a tutorial on how to remove a broken off exhaust bolt in a cylinder head without taking it off the engine! You do need to take the exhaust manifold off though. The video applies to any engine regardless of cylinder count.
If you have a car question ask it completely free at www.2carpros.c...
*Disclaimer: Please use all safety precautions
Mate, using the torx was the best advice that worked a treat when my easy outs failed.....thanks mate you're a legend
This worked for me on a rear manifold, up in a tight spot. This goes in the top 10 most awesome tricks I've learned for sure.
NICE! Thanks for watching Andrew!
in a perfect world maybe
Some time you have a lot of rust and a few inches of room to do it
@@kevinagnew6878dead mass less then half a inch of room to to get to the second bolt shii built so retarted
@@kevinagnew6878exactly my situation SMH
Legit just got a bolt out with his method😆🫡
Size 2.5 hardened steel drill bit and T20 Torx bit. The punch is a narrow center punch. Use oil to dissipate the heat on the cutting edge of the drill bit. The right angle drill is 3/8”.
lol i gotta face the same task now!!
This is what I was looking for. I wasn’t ready for it but it’s what needs to be done
i do the exact same, it has worked literally everything
This trick just saved my customer thousands of dollars. It was almost to easy. Thank you.
Great to hear! Thanks for watching!
One thing you need to watch for on the easy outs is that because of the way the spiral flutes draw the tool into the hole you can actually end up expanding the stud and jamming it even tighter. Been there, broke the easy out, got the t shirt
Oof that's rough bud. Thanks for watching!
Here because I just did this.
Same bro... i just welded a fcking stud onto it hahah
Absolutely I never use easy outs they are hard as glass even good ones and break off then your screwed! Been there done that
When it happens, get out your Dremel and a cheap diamond grinding bit. I don’t use the easy out any more for this.
Dude I watched this video and thought it was dumb but HOLY SHIT ITS SO EASY seriously your the real MVP this was the best trick ever
Thanks of watching! One of the things I picked up working these years. It is really handy to know.
Thank you so much!!! This saved my butt on a 5.7 Hemi. Even with a special tool, couldn't get the right angle to drill clean. This worked perfectly, thanks!
Nice work! Thanks for watching!
Hey I gotta change my exhaust bolts on a hemi too does the video include all the info or is there anything you would suggest
@@Sidluvher It just depends how badly the stud is broken. If it's broken inside the head, this video was perfect. If it's sticking out, just get a set of vice grips on it and back it out. It was intimidating at first, but i've done a few sets now for friends etc. and it's easy.
Just broke 7 drill bits on the broken bolt in my head for my intake manifold bolt. Luckily I got it, but now I have a broken exhaust bolt that I need to remove. Fun.
Tried the EZ out and I could feel something was going to give, took it out and hammered the torx bit in there, had to put some pressure on it but nothing broke and the bolt came out. Even if you f-up a torx bit it is well worth it, replace it for $3, will save ez-outs for screws. Thanks for vid.
Agreed! Thanks for watching Robert!
I broke my bit inside of the stud when removing any one know a good drill bit to drill threw a torqes bit lol
Thank-You for this video! My old 1998 ek hatch stripped the bolt on the exhaust manifold earlier on a snow storm.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much!!!! This one trick worked when everything else I tried failed (multiple times).
Glad it helped!
Wow lmao this is amazing. Your manifold videos are the best! I've been watching a few and you are straight to the point with GREAT tips! Thank you!
just did it myself today and it worked beautifully!!
Nice work! Thanks for watching!
OMG, no way... You used to do PC tech unboxings with your friend right? there's no way!
Best tip yet worked like a charm on the first try thank you
Thank you! It just worked for me, to remove a broken stud on a 2012 GMC Terrain!
Super video, got an old 44 year old motorcycle to restore...came with one manifold exhaust collar bolt snapped off 1/2 into manifold. Considering options. I was thinking about drilling out an 8mm bolt so it can go in remaining threads, and pr0vide guide for 1/8th inch bit, then use that hole with extractor, or the torque socket you suggest. It is very easy for a drill to drift when drilling out center of a snapped bolt for reasons you cover. Thanks for this advice.
Please drill slowly, with oil, and apply a lot of pressure. That keeps the bit cool and sharp. Then no special bits are needed.
Jamie A cheap bit will work like that? WD work for oil?
@@leadweightguy6134 This was taught to me by a 60 yr old finish carpenter and I found it very successful. WD-40 should work as both a lubricant and a conductor of heat, but it might evaporate under the high heat of a drill More easily than 3-in-1 oil or even drops of whatever motor oil you have. They drill bit that's rotating quickly on metal will get very hot and heat destroys anything. If a brand new, or very sharp drill bit is actually cutting the metal, and it's turning slowly and there is any kind of oil present, then the oil will conduct the heat and the high pressure and sharp edge of the drill bit will cut into the metal instead of spinning on top of it and getting super hot. So yes a sharp and cheap drill bit with whatever oil you have turning slowly should work but I am not deeply experienced on the topic.
Thanks very much! God bless you, and Jesus loves You!
Thank you for watching!
Did you get your bolts out?
Broken bolts which are heavily corroded in the thread, are in most cases very difficult to loosen. In these cases the hole must be drilled as large as possible so that the left-hand extractor does not break off so easily. To obtain a centric hole, I use an appropriately drilled screw for center punching and for centric guidance during drilling. When drilling hardened steel, the drill must be made of solid carbide. If the bolt is broken off right at the flange and the centering screw cannot be used, freehand punching / drilling is the only option in most cases.
Hoping I can squeeze up in there and do this on my F-250's 5.4 and just replace the stud without taking the rest of the manifold off. I reallllly don't want to take that whole thing apart!
Good luck! Thanks for watching!
Awesome tip, I’ll try on my dang 6.2 Cadillac. It’s leaking from one side due to broken stud
You got this! Thanks for watching!
How did it workout? I have the exact same problem with my Cadillac and it looks too deep to weld.
@@cameronbraun6265 I think he paid a specialist because his internet was cut off due to the cost of that bolt to said specialist.
Guys working on a catalytic converter is much cheaper than changing out your Cadillac.
Wow awesome tip huge thanks man! Only had 1 break on me luckily installing headers on my 2013 Charger RT going to try this tomorrow.
Excellent! Thank you. My wife says “this guy seems nice”
Thanks for watching!
Thank you I was getting so pissed at that i tried everything to get them out they finally came out
Nice! Thanks for watching!
Wish you could get mine out😞
Looks like I have to go buy me a right angle drill , I have 4 dang studs broke off on my 5.4 triton, thanks man !!
This just saved my life , thank you very much !!!! I was panicking for a quick second haha
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Stay tuned for are next video, how to use a diamond bit grinder to remove your broken “easy out” or “torx bit”. 😂 Great video none the less!
Great video man worked like a charm!
Great to hear!
I've got a Hemi with a broken stud but the access is absolute hell. I need to wait a little bit and purchase myself a 90° angle drill.
Helpful tool! Thanks for watching!
Tyvm for this video. I snapped a stud on one of my exhaust flanges that was on the passenger side catalytic converter while preparing to install a new Y-pipe.
Omg, your the guy from LavcoPriceTech! What happened to the channel?!
So glad this helped you!
That's not a channel I have thought about in years. Price and I agreed that it was best if we moved on. Thanks for watching!
im glad i got the $400 set of snap on torx bits. toughest ones out there and it dont matter if you screw up the bit. lifetime warranty. the square tip eazy outs are the best they dont expand the bolt and break like the spiral style
Darn right! Thanks for watching!
Would be great to see an example with more rust. That looked pretty easy and the bolt was practically mint.
This is absolute badass man I have to try this on my Honda rebel 250 nice video
Thanks for watching!
It would be nice if I had enough room to do this on my E250 van with the 4.6 modular V8.
Damn you made that look easy
Years of practice. Thanks for watching!
That's an AWESOME IDEA thank you bro for sharing you knowledge
No problem 👍
Thanks just got my deep broken bolt extracted
its amazing what some people call hard work haha... Try roofing in July in Phoenix AZ
That sounds hot. Thanks for watching!
Thnx a lot! this method is a lifesaver! works like a charm
Very cool! Thanks for watching!
Great stuff man, legend for that
Great tip thank you for that information I’m sure it’s going to help a lot of us out there
I hope so! Thanks for watching!
What size torque bit did you use and what size drill bit did you use?
Nice and straight to the point. 3 👍 up
Thanks for watching!
IF you happen to have a 90 angle drill andIF the bolt isn't the one in the back of a V8. And you should put a rag in the exhaust hole so you don't get chips in the cylinder.
Great video guy you save my day
Glad to hear it!
I want to see this done with a cast steel head and a hardened steel bolt that’s been in the head since it was built in 1970. And add in a nice coating of rust.
Soon as a get a car from the 70s with that problem it will be on the channel. Thanks for watching!
Same here. Plus decades of road salt.
I watched my friend remove mine with a engraver. It was really cool
That's pretty cool! Thanks for watching Tom!
Great video and good advice on the torx bit.
Thanks 👍
Thank you this will help me for my dirt bike
Happy to help!
Super helpful. Thanks
You're welcome!
i haven't even tried and I'm already thinking that all of them are going to break flush like this
There is an AWESOME product called Liquid Wrench which I wish I had heard of BEFORE I snapped off my manifold bolts. Spray it on the night before, leave it overnight and then in the morning the rusty bolts will come right out, no troubles.
That wasnt a regular Torx socket. It was threaded!
@@mrmagneto554 thanks man i will give it a shot
@@mrmagneto554 I'll take a look thanks I've only managed to.get 2 out fully I now have 3 snapped 3 to go its a headache
My mechanic just found 2 broken exhaust manifold bolts in my 2003 GMC Yukon Denali. He said he didn't do those. That I'd most likely need to find some exhaust shop to do it. Called Mechanic B. He couldn't tell me on the phone if he could do it or not. I'll be swinging by on Monday to see what he says. What's the price difference between this job and disassembly?
Did you figure out the cost or did you do it yourself? I just ran into the same problem. Got all the bolts free till I noticed one missing and looked with a flash light and it’s broken inside my heads
Not trying to be a "killjoy" here and I sure this fella is very good at what he does. I just want to shout out a very BIG WARNING. I would not use a torque tip bit at all. I use them all the time and they work great for what they were designed to do. However, even in the proper application, they are strong but very brittle. Trying to remove a frozen rusted bolt out of a head you run a very high risk of breaking the torque tip in the broken bolt, then you lost your only chance of getting that bolt out. The broken torque tip is going to be impossible to drill and almost impossible to remove after it has been forced fitted in with a hammer. If you do not have an easy-out get one. I promise you if you break that torque tip in that broken bolt you are going to be crying as now you have to remove the head and take it to the head shop and pray they can get it out which is 50/50.
Ya but both tools are made of the same metal so if you break either you are in trouble, I found the torx bit "grabs" the broken stud better than an easy out.
I mean either way you are in trouble. This trick has gotten me out of countless jams. Thanks for watching!
If anyone doesn’t know yet, leave yourself a solid 2-4 hours after running the engine for the exhaust to cool off. You’ll burn yourself bad just touching neighboring components.
So what happens when the ez out snaps inside of the bolt?
bust out the welder
Your bout screwed unless by a miracle you can remove it
Cry...wipe eyes. Trade vehicle in on a new one. Cry some more.
DREMEL with carbide/diamond grinder
Wouldn't mind replacing torques bits lol. Broke a stud on a water pump. This tip may be useful in a day.
Snap-On replaces mine for free. Anything to get a stud out honestly. Thanks for watching!
You have to take the exhaust manifold off and get a drill press....start by drilling with a small drill bit first.....ok....and go a little bigger at a time....to get the stud out and use a easy out....if needed.....
I'm having trouble drilling into my broken exhaust bolt. I started with a 1/8 inch bit and I used cutting oil but it isn't going in very well. Could recommend a drill be that would definitely cut into that more easily?????
The only reason this method makes me nervous is because if the bolt extractor breaks now you have a real problem as they are often hardened and cannot be drilled. I would definitely use the largest extractor that would work.
This usually works for me. If this failed you’d have to go to melting it out.
Thanks for watching!
I love how hes so calm taking a snapped bolt out id be shitting my self.. Like oh fu**....
Haha thank you, I try to be level headed. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros Anytime. Had to remove a bolt like your vid today it was a son of a B!
Great Content!
Thankyou!!!!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!
Beautiful thank you !
Thanks for watching!
Is there anyway you can tell me exactly what drill bit you used? I’ve bought and tried and melted and bought and broken and tried so many different ones! That bolt is hard!
Thank you thank you very much
You are very welcome!
Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Any idea what drill bits or what size? I should buy to drill out rusted/broken 2002 Honda Civic exhaust manifold bolts? Just wanna make sure I get the right kit or use the right size
I'm confused about the drill bit. I thought Cobalt drill bits were used for drilling into stainless steel and I thought these bolts were usually made of stainless steel. Can you link to an exact set of drill bits that would be suitable for this job in your opinion?
Just make sure it is a quality hardened steel bit than it sharp. I used cobalt because that is what I had brand new. Thanks for watching!
I caught that immediately too. Cobalt bits are superior in every way to HSS bits. They start off as HSS, then 5-8% cobalt is added, improving nearly all characteristics. Used correctly, they will last much much longer. Get TiCN coated Cobalt and they will last nearly forever, if you don't break it.
Graet tip!
Thanks for watching!
Good job, but I cant believe you didnt block up the exhaust ports first! Not good practise to have swarf going in there mate
That was my first thought. Don’t even know how I came upon this video. Evidently I’m bored at 2am.
you made it easy, but in real life, it can't e that simple. 9 out of 10, you will break the torque bit and you're screwed.
Thats cool thank you
Thanks for watching Arianna!
Good
Looks like about a 5 yr old vehicle; can you show that on a 1972 farm truck?
what kind of drill bits would you use on the rear manifold bolts?
i just keep snapping everything and nothing is even putting a scratch i to it so I am not sure what to do
What you gonna do if you broke your torq socket inside??? I have this situation, I spent a lot of time, and without any success. Any advice would be appreciated..
Since it is an aluminum head, I'd wield a nut on and use a wrench to back it out. Works every time there is dissimilar metals. On an iron head you run the risk of welding to the head though. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros I tried, no success.
Hey Guy, Did I miss the part about the size of the torx head, and also the drill?
I think it was a T20 Torx but the drill I just eye balled as smaller. Thanks for watching!
got to do that with bike ehhaust it sticks outside bought quarter going weld nut although figuring does the heat seize them in possible or reaction yet to try great
Reading this comment made me feel like I was having a stroke.
Can't wait to try this trick on my audi 5 cylinder, just broke 3 exhaust studs off in the head and the engine is at a downward slant:(
Ouch... Well taking the head off might be in your future. Thanks for watching!
Your comment about Cobalt drill bits is kind of confusing. Unless you mean Kobalt the brand. Cobalt is generally considered harder i.e. stronger than Titanium...
I had Cobalt Kobalt drill bits and they were terrible. I just like my titanium ones. Thanks for watching!
Exhaust manifold BOLT is on the flange, exhaust manifold STUD is on the head. HUGE difference
The head of the BOLT was busted off. So there was just a STUD in the head.
I’ve same issue but with side cover bolt on Honda accord 2012 the broken bolt located beside the VVT solenoid 😢
It’s difficult place and I don’t want to take the engine out to remove the broken bolt
I wish I lived nearby so you could fix my car!
Well it was a good idea until it wasn’t my torx but broke and I don’t know what to use to drill through it.
cool save..
Thanks for watching!
Ram 5.7 Hemi engines...constantly exhaust manifold bolts break
Which gen? My buddy has one and we were just talking about this. Thanks for watching!
Dodge v8 exhaust studs are prone to snapping. Lotsa videos on them, but this is by far the easiest I've seen one come out, tho this is on a Ford block. One trick I've learned in my many years, to AVOID SNAPPING BOLTS IN THE 1ST PLACE, is to gently tighten the old bolt before trying to loosen it. This very often "cracks it forward" by just the tiniest fraction and often it unbinds the threads perfectly. Guess it's the surface rust of the bolt head, washers, etc. stuck against the block. Works about 80% of the time. Also, a little Master Blaster with a few taps of metal on metal and some patience works wonders, too. Let it work its way down the threads, maybe 15 minutes or so. Then crack it forward a little...success! I'd avoid air and power tools on broken studs, except when drilling, cuz I trust the "feel" when wrenching out wrecked threads, etc. but to each his own. Good luck.
Also, put your own wheels and tires on, without an air wrench set at 200 lbs, like a lot of Walmarts and tire centers do. They crank the studs down and stretch the threads so if you DO have a flat, you'll snap one or two off on the side of the road. No fun. Use your own torque wrench for the last few threads and avoid snapped wheel studs. And never use thread lock on these wheel bolts. Gummy mess.
@@doclockwood8841 who puts thread lock on wheel studs? I agree with not using it or Walmart to touch your vehicle for anything but If you have a gummy mess from using thread locker as in Loc-Tite then you are using it for the first time and using entirely too much in the first place of the stuff.
@@zash008 I agree about Threadlock. A buddy helped change two of my tires out of my sight and thought he was doing me a favor by using Threadlock. Gummy mess. Got it all off, tho...back to clean threads.
Clearly not a very old bolt. Only reason you got it out that easy
11 Year old cop car with 175k miles. Decently old. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros Try a 20+ year old jeep and get back to me.
@@neillameier8644 oh piss off
@@Jake-im2lv Want a tissue?
I just extracted a snapped manifold stud out of a 35 year old Celica with a drill and torx bit, so sod your 20+ year old Jeep and your gatekeeping attitude
How do I find a replacement bolt for the header if I can't find it online due to being an old model? Hardware store?
Could I use a soldering iron to heat up the stud or would that not be hot enough. The material I'm extracting seems reasonably soft
I'm not sure that would transfer enough heat. Thanks for watching!
You could but don’t heat the bolt. That only expands the bolt. You need to heat the female portion.
Why not just use a magnetic to pick up the metal pieces around your engine
What drill did you use?
seems logical one might not want to apply Loctite with the replacement bolts due to the possibly of making bolts difficult to remove next time?
What exact brand of drill bit is best please
how do you hammer in such tight space ?
what was the torque socket?
Shouldn't you have covered the exhaust port on the head to avoid metal debris from entering the engine?
It would be tough to get metal all the way up there due to where the stud is. But yes that is a very good idea for the top studs. Thanks for watching!
How do I remove the flex pipe screwthat breaks that coming down from the manifold
Is it normal for coolant to escape from the bolt hole after drilling?
Lol damn dude. You went to deep. Rip man. Need a new heaf
Wow. Do you live on my street?
Sadly I only live on the interwebs. Thanks for watching!