3D Printed Vise Speed Handle
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- Опубліковано 3 чер 2024
- STL's and links: fpfdesigns.com/
Black PLA: amzn.to/3T9afnk
16mm Bearings: amzn.to/49PKTAF
Outro music is "Quantum" by "Vapora", used with explicit permission from the artist. • Quantum
Other music used is "The March of Anubis" by "Vapora", used with explicit permission from the artist. • The March of Anubis
New videos published every Friday, featuring a new 3D printed functional object, how I use it, and design considerations.
The design depicted in this video is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License or other non-commercial license.
pm728vt
precision matthews
milling machine
quick
functional
print
fpf
PLA
bearings
spin - Наука та технологія
In addition to the 14mm version featured in the video, I added versions for 3/4" and 12mm to the STL download for those interested.
My vise has a 3/4" square drive... I don't know if anyone else would have an interest, but perhaps you might consider adding a 3/4" square version to your collection... It would also be handy to have a couple of dimensioned drawings for the arm and the handle. Can your CAD tool easily spit out a simple dimensioned drawing?
-Thanks
Loved fire extinguisher right next to the A1😂
ya caught that did ya? :P
@@FunctionalPrintFridayA good reference about all the drama ahah
How's your power cable?
ua-cam.com/video/pxqmfNVC0Ks/v-deo.html I ROFL'ed
@@littlefrank90so far no issues and of all my machines I think the A1 does the best job with plain old PLA
Nice project and result. Another option is 'cheating', using a battery drill, with a suitable adapter)
Dont do that dear god don’t do that
When I first confronted this problem, I naturally gravitated to the simplest solution, which was to keep my M12 3/8 impact near the mill. What I soon discovered was that the lack of a clutch made it too easy to over-torque. So instead I used one of my M12 drivers with a clutch. It is non-impact and takes 1/4 inch bits. You can get a set of 1/4 inch to 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 socket drivers from HF pretty cheap and they are more than adequate for this low-torque application. This is Functional Print Friday and not Functional Solution Friday, so I get it, but an FPF for my solution would be to create a holster that lives on the mill for the driver to nestle in. Lots of engineering challenges in that.
This was my thought right away, except I gravitated to the M12 driver right away.
What this provided me was the idea of another application for my M12 driver!
Machining and functional 3D printing, what a great combination!!! Really enjoy your video’s.
thx!
Cool project! I am a machinist myself. We use electric drills to open and close our vises quickly!
I LOVE functional 3D-Printing! Most of the time my printer is solving problems for me :D
Very well done, I do like the design. Thank you for the video.
Just come across your channel and it's great! great way to show off how 3D printing can compliment traditional tools. Great video!
thx!
So cool seeing that handle take shape!
Thanks! I'm always a little worried throwing machining content in, but people seem to enjoy it.
simple and efficient. that's precisely the point of 3DP yes! I love it!
For years I used an aluminium lawn mower spark plug spanner they are 14umm, but for giggles I made one of these. I printed a thread for a 6mm cap head screw and printed a handle for the screw to go through and rotate around. Works great for the last 13 months.
Lots of interesting ideas and comments, thanks. You also made me think for simple speed I'll chuck up a socket in my rechargeable drill.
so satisfying to watch
thx!
Glad you included an STL for the handle... Great video.. I have a 3" Grizzly vice on my mill and it has a 12mm.. Printing Now..!!
the only this i would ad is a magnet to snap the hex in place but nice build and 3 bearing is a little over kill i think but good job i like to see usfull 3d print we need more exemple like that
First time UA-cam sent your videos to me. Excellent content and I love that your stls are free. Happy to throw a sub your way and hope it keeps growing.
thank you! and welcome to the channel
Love your channel! Functional, practical, well thought out projects. Great narration and videography.. You are pushing me to getting a 3D printer.. I already own metalworking machines.. :) How about considering a 3D, lathe compound handle drive using a cordless drill.
really nice work
thx
Neat solutions. I wonder if an e-clip might have been better than a circlip as the retainer as less likely to deform when fitting.
This is awesome. Definitely earned a subscription.
thx, and welcome
Thank you very much, I love it, great video, you are the best 👍
I'd probably use trilinear infill for this, because the forces are in-plane I mostly use gyroid for tpu parts.
Very nice. How about imbedding a neo magnet to hold it on the shaft?
Nice work. Nice tools as well. I've been looking at a PM lathe for a while now. Have yet to pull trigger. I DO have a mill though. It's very nice for a home gamer. Uh.. I was gonna say, I use a cordless drill and socket for this vise work. Anywho... great job. Subscribed.
loving the pm1440gt, but I also don't anything real heavy either
I want to machine aluminum handles to perfection like you now :p
My 4" vise is 12" handle. I made a tri-spoke speed handle, works great and will spin 4-5 turns free play
New subscriber. Happy I found your channel, fun & educational, plus I have similar equipment.
I printed one of these for myself. I needed to extend the bulge on the vice side as mine stuck out farther and I do not have a lathe to create a handle so I found one on Thingiverse and printed it, then pressed a 5mm threaded insert in and used a 30mm long 5mm screw to attach it. I had some bearings that just pressed in that had flanges on one side, so it only took 2, and I used a nylon locknut to hold the screw and bearings together without any pressure on the bearing plus a regular nut to lock the screw to the insert in the handle..
Nit picking but you may want to choose ironing on your top layer.
Also, no nurl on the handle? YOU SLACKER! :P
not to nitpick your nitpick but if he wants to nitpick too he might be better off to check extrusion stepping and then accuracy along his z axis before relying on the software to cover for mistakes. If you are already having your slicer use surface level smoothing (it's different than ironing and sometimes isn't enabled by default, you'll know if cura says something like "top layers: 0" for example) your top layers should be VERY smooth. Hypothetically if your printer is tuned correctly you will almost never need ironing, and ironing will actually in some cases cause worse surfaces if for example your z scaling is wrong and your print is too tall, it will leave an ugly trail in the surface, while if it was too short it wont "iron" at all and you're just wasting printer time.
The less software corrections and bandaid-type fixes the better, especially when you're talking opening in the comments like this where a passing viewer may not understand "why" a setting should be enabled. If someone only printed high-temp filaments and perhaps already had their bed a TINY bit too hot the ironing will cause a condition similar to elephant's foot, and then it's just going to send the user back to checking extrusion anyways, except this time they may not remember to check back and re-disable ironing.
I love a good nitpick
Hello there ! Great idea !
Instead of the snap ring you could open a hole in the rod and place a screw with a washer !
Thank you for the content and your time.
Really good use of 3d printing, in the future you may be you can make one that uses a cordless drill or a simple dc motor
Another great video, you have a great work shop, just for interest, a snap ring in the UK is called a circlip
Australia too
Always fun to hear what things are commonly called in other places. I've heard it called a circlip in the US as well, but we more commonly say snap-ring.
Well done!
thx!
Your videos are very inspirational. I also would like to try to make functional prints and have looked back through a lot of your videos and haven’t seen much discussion on the software side of the projects. I assume it’s fusion 360 that is being used to create all your designs. I have tried to dabble in it, but it’s overwhelming. Thanks for the inspiration.
If you move the handle so that it’s parallel with the screw, then slightly move it off-center you can move the jaw from one end to the other just as fast. Yes, I understand the benefit of a shorter handle but there’s alternatives and I’m surprised most people never figure this out.
but spinny handle fun. :)
Loving my A1. But I only use it now while I’m home. No signs of damage, but better safe than sorry I guess. I use a cordless drill with a socket on it. But will probably make a speed handle because it looks fun
Carriage bolt as a handle, with the square section inset into the body, then a shaped handle to fit over the carriage bolt, and lock nut on the end to hold it on. Lock washers are more rounded, and blend that into the handle shell. Makes the body stronger also as there is more meat than you have using the bearings, which are really overkill I think. Just a thought.
I really like the Fire exstinguiser😀Very funny😂😂Nice video!
very cool
Man, that looks good! Gotta make myself one of those now 😂. Ciao, Marco.
I like, but it could be done simpler and cheaper....You could make the same handle without the bearings and machined knob. You print the knob with a hole running through it that a 1/4-20 bolt fits loosely enough to turn freely. Then take a long 1/4-20 bolt cut away the threaded portion keeping enough length for it serve as an axle for the knob. The bolt goes through the knob and gets pressed into the crank arm. Making sure to leave the knob free to turn... The resulting part would then be all printed except the shortened bolt. So 3 parts, 2 of them printed, lathe work is optional and the total project cost should drop to around one dollar.....🤔Though it wouldn't have the really cool looking machined knob.
so cool
Wonder how much torque it can take for high pressure clamping
Nice video, a question how much interference usually you design to assemble the bearings at the PLA print?
I design them to both be the identical size or, at most .1mm difference. For smaller holes (under 4mm), I add .2ish, and you'll also need to adjust depending on how accurate your printer is, and how accurate your extrusion multiplier is tuned. All of these will impact ultimate bore size in the printed part.
First time watching this channel. What CAD software is he using
Love it 👍
thx
@@FunctionalPrintFridayThank you for "Functional Friday"
The backside of the bearing bore could benefit from a shoulder to retain bearings or a drop of loctite on outer races. I really like your content especially 3D printing tips. Can you recommend a good first timer 3D printer?
They're not going anywhere! "@Farmcraft 101"
yeh I'm sub'd on his channel. great stuff
The fire extinguisher made me laugh 😂😂😂
What 3d design software is that
Nice. Cap the 14mm side?
I think the easiest handle might have just been a piece of metal rod interference fit into the hole, you can slide your fingers around that just fine and makes the design simpler and cheaper
Cheap cordless drill with a 14mm socket on the end of it? :)
Nice little tool.
I would have printed solid or at least enforced solid adjacent to the 14mm hex although I have noted a weird interface where the infill doesn’t continue across the enforcer boundary, which is usually why I do 100%. I should test my parts to see what best but each part is different and usually small and if it was weak and broke you would just print another with more perimeters or beefier infill. Which would save masses of waste testing. I guess if you sold the parts it would be worthwhile to test the strength and time to produce.
The fusion/ investor FEA tools work but I don’t think they analysis porous material the assume solid homogeneous material.
It would be interesting to see an experiment of wall thickness and part infill vs wall thickness and solid vs infill type vs infill density, could be quite a bit of content in that.
However It is unlikely that you would be able to torque out the handle in one use but over time cracks may propagate and eventually cause failure.
2) Do you run Solid infill every 10 or so layer on prints like this to add strength? Ive done before a couple times and seems to help. Although it only puts in one level. You could do a height modifier to build more layers of solid infill.
Couldnt u get or make a matching one for a drill instead
I always use Gyroid myself, nice mention.
It's slow, and I feel like it's hard on the printer, but the parts are MUCH harder to break in the limited testing I've done. I think a couple different channels have done infill testing, and gyroid is always in the top 3.
Great design 👍😀
Witch CAD program are you using?
I'd like to know too
It's SketchUp Make 2017
I got tired of cranking the vices back and forth so i made a bit for a screwdriver. But these vices have the female end, so was an easy fix.
Yours have the male end, so bit trickier. But with 3D printing that could be a thing too i suppose :P
I think the only thing i would have changed is putting a set screw on the top of the handle by the hexgon and used a threaded insert to hold it onto the machine.
Is that a 3d printed jaw rest/shelf for your lathe? Cool
yeh, I made sleds for the chucks and a "utility tray"ua-cam.com/video/WUvg5a8PVEk/v-deo.htmlsi=A_zCSl-ErZxI0A-0
For the future... Only 2 bearings would be necessary along with a bearing spacer, to reduce cost and weight, between them... Also, I appreciate the use of the spring clip and was hoping that was your plan while you were working on the handle.
absolutely, but china bearings are sooo cheap and I had them on hand
So 14 mm socket and small ratchet wouldn’t work I have one in my shop and use a socket and ratchet
Why you can't buy it?
Cordless impact with socket?
Maybe just a cordless drill with torque adjustment and 14mm socket rather than the impact. I have one of those and a 3d printer but no lathe and metal stock.
The advantage to a speed-handle over a drill and socket is to be able to gently bring some tension to the vise jaws with one hand while you position or hold the parts with your other hand. With a drill, it's hard to find that butter zone where you just barely start to get some tension between the part and jaws during positioning. Even worse, if you want to loosen it a little to adjust position, then snug it up again, now you're switching direction with the drill, twice. Drill is good for production work where you're just banging the same part or blank into a fixture over and over again with no need for alignment, etc.
A drill?
What's wrong with a drill?
Many times you'll find those wrenches cut down.
You can increase your infill line width to 160-180% to gain more strength and save some time with gyroid. Nice video!
thx, I'll try that next time
My solution: adapted drill motor go BRRRRR.
I prefer the tactile feel of the screw to know if there's chips in there or other binding before damage gets done, but I know a lot of people go the drill route with success
Drill and 14mm?
The advantage to a speed-handle over a drill and socket is to be able to gently bring some tension to the vise jaws with one hand while you position or hold the parts with your other hand. With a drill, it's hard to find that butter zone where you just barely start to get some tension between the part and jaws during positioning. Even worse, if you want to loosen it a little to adjust position, then snug it up again, now you're switching direction with the drill, twice. Drill is good for production work where you're just banging the same part or blank into a fixture over and over again with no need for alignment, etc.
If your nozzle is grinding on your prints turn Z-Hop on.
How about designing a two to one gear into your handle? Just for fun!
I'd like to do this for the z-axis wheel on my lathe, to gear it down
You could always use a drill, socket, set torque bypass for even faster speeds and no need to design a handle 😎
The advantage to a speed-handle over a drill and socket is to be able to gently bring some tension to the vise jaws with one hand while you position or hold the parts with your other hand. With a drill, it's hard to find that butter zone where you just barely start to get some tension between the part and jaws during positioning. Even worse, if you want to loosen it a little to adjust position, then snug it up again, now you're switching direction with the drill, twice. Drill is good for production work where you're just banging the same part or blank into a fixture over and over again with no need for alignment, etc.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday I was just mainly speaking on the jaws being wide open how you demonstrated. In the shop, We usually have the jaws around 2” or less, occasionally 4”. The Kurt handle is not much of an issue for us but it does get in the way on the table vertical adjustment which we remove the handle. The speed handle is definitely a plus, nice build.
@@ProjectAnubisUSA understood, thx!
@@FunctionalPrintFriday Not only that, but a drill is bulky and almost as awkward as the original crank handle. A small handle that can stay on there is ideal, and you executed it well.
The button handle was at the highest point possible. You could just turn it down and it would work. Right?
it misses the spinning part if it's all the way down, but still hits the round part of the handle. small-mill problems :)
Battery drill and socket does the job best.
👍.
I'm not sure why you didn't just turn the diameter for the bearings first, then the OD and part it off. You don't need to complicate things with using a second operation with a collet. You can just turn the back of the part to clean up the parted off face by holding it in the same 3-jaw.
3-jaw seems to mark up aluminum too easy. collet chuck never leaves a mark
Nice solution but still slower than a drill with a socket.
That was my first thought. Why not use a 14mm socket with 3/8 connector and use a standard coupler for putting it into a cordless drill? I guess it would not be 3D printed 😂
@@ftrueck And that's it right there. He can't make a UA-cam video out of that.
Why’s the mill mounted to your car!
runs faster, duh. :P
The knob is missing a knurl, you'll have to pick up a knurling tool.
Why not just use two bearings, leaving a shoulder inside to space them. Also why not press the knob into the inner race as well?
Love the channel, enjoying all the videos you have made. Keepnup the good work.
I've got 3 different knurling tools that I acquired in various tool sales, and haven't used them yet. I need to just give it a go on some scrap stock and learn how to use them. Joe Pie has a great video on knurling that I should probably go re-watch. I am a beginner at best on the lathe, but really enjoying my time on it.
i think you're really underestimating the strength of 3D prints across the layer lines if you sincerely believe you'd only get a few uses out of the thing with a printed handle on it -- especially with a little bit of clever design. naturally, you wouldn't be cranking on this thing to fully tighten the vise anyway. the printed handle would have worked fine
yeh, but it would have ultimately broken, and I hate designing things that I know are "flawed" if I can avoid it .. at least for stuff I plan on keeping/using for a long time
Socket and electric still. Solved. But the handle is cool though.
This may be a dumb question but, you have a milling machine, why not just machine one out of aluminum that will last quite a bit longer? Shit, I'd even send you one of the small ones I made
Internal hex's are time consuming to mill, plus the setups for the all the nice curves on the outside. 3-d printing just crushes that part with ease. I enjoy mixing processes in projects like this when I can. Certainly a fair question though.
Yon know…. @8:26 when you used your pinky, you should have realized that if you had also placed a dimple/well in the handle FOR spinning it with a finger, the design could have supported use with the handle OR just by spinning it with your finger.
I would just used a drill with a socket that fit that vice
Heh... Deep well sockets, Makita drive, set clutch low...
Awesome video, I recreated your design in build123d (a new type of fully open source CodeCAD similar to OpenSCAD but with native fillets/chamfers) -- Here is the sourcecode:
from build123d import *
with BuildPart() as p:
with BuildSketch() as s:
Circle(25)
with Locations((75,0)):
Circle(15)
make_hull()
with Locations((75,0)):
Circle(16/2,mode=Mode.SUBTRACT)
extrude(amount=14)
with BuildSketch() as s:
Circle(20)
extrude(amount=20)
fillet(p.edges(Select.NEW),3)
with BuildSketch() as s:
RegularPolygon(14,6)
extrude(amount=20,mode=Mode.SUBTRACT)
edgs=p.edges(Select.LAST).group_by(Axis.Z)[-1]
chamfer(edgs,2)
that's awesome! I will have to check this out
What about a piece that connects to a low torque motor that is battery-powered?? Full send?? Lol
The advantage to a speed-handle over a drill and socket (or other motorized approach) is to be able to gently bring some tension to the vise jaws with one hand while you position or hold the parts with your other hand. With a drill, it's hard to find that butter zone where you just barely start to get some tension between the part and jaws during positioning. Even worse, if you want to loosen it a little to adjust position, then snug it up again, now you're switching direction with the drill, twice. Drill is good for production work where you're just banging the same part or blank into a fixture over and over again with no need for alignment, etc.
@FunctionalPrintFriday I understand why you wouldn't want to use a drill. I'm talking about a custom-made one-handed small tool. Basically, it's a socket with a motor attached within a custom body. You could control the speed with either a button or how hard you push. I wish you could see what's in my head because I think you'd appreciate/ enjoy it!
@@christophergrace1085 I think maybe I understand. Maybe with a directional switch where you push one way for in, one way for out, and it locks up so you can manually turn either way without power for fine adjustments?
@FunctionalPrintFriday That with what I was thinking. Have it in a housing that as you press in, it can speed up and slow down or stop as you let up. It actually just spent the last hour or so researching it to figure it out!! Lol. I'm thinking of some type of "T" shaped handle that would house all the electronic components, and maybe use of a hall effect sensor that can control the actual speed.... I wish my arm wasn't in a sling! I'd hop on my computer and draw it up in CAD.
Spending hours to save seconds.
Bro just use a impact 😂
Rather than adding the shoulder you could have just closed the hex hole
gold in the comments right here. thx. if I make another I'll do this. not sure why I was mentally stuck on keeping it pass-through.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday I usually print multiple “final” versions before I spot an obvious simplification 🤦♂️
Enjoying your channel!
Just get a drill and put on a hex socket
just get a hex socket on a cordless impact
The advantage to a speed-handle over a drill and socket is to be able to gently bring some tension to the vise jaws with one hand while you position or hold the parts with your other hand. With a drill, it's hard to find that butter zone where you just barely start to get some tension between the part and jaws during positioning. Even worse, if you want to loosen it a little to adjust position, then snug it up again, now you're switching direction with the drill, twice. Drill is good for production work where you're just banging the same part or blank into a fixture over and over again with no need for alignment, etc.
would be nice if it had more than one gear one could engage.@@FunctionalPrintFriday
... if your nozzle is hitting your print during print moves, there is something wrong with your printer. That has nothing to do with the type of infill you're using.
so you don’t want to use a battery drill with a socket OK good waste your time not mine.
The advantage to a speed-handle over a drill and socket is to be able to gently bring some tension to the vise jaws with one hand while you position or hold the parts with your other hand. With a drill, it's hard to find that butter zone where you just barely start to get some tension between the part and jaws during positioning. Even worse, if you want to loosen it a little to adjust position, then snug it up again, now you're switching direction with the drill, twice. Drill is good for production work where you're just banging the same part or blank into a fixture over and over again with no need for alignment, etc.
Stop wasting time, use a battery powered drilling machine. with a simple custom bit made for that..
Use a drill
I would have just put a socket on the end of a cordless drill
The advantage to a speed-handle over a drill and socket is to be able to gently bring some tension to the vise jaws with one hand while you position or hold the parts with your other hand. With a drill, it's hard to find that butter zone where you just barely start to get some tension between the part and jaws during positioning. Even worse, if you want to loosen it a little to adjust position, then snug it up again, now you're switching direction with the drill, twice. Drill is good for production work where you're just banging the same part or blank into a fixture over and over again with no need for alignment, etc.
If you make a heavy wheel you could spinn it to full open or closed in a second
I simply upgraded my cordless drill buy buying the newest model and dedicated the old drill for the mill. There, one less working on “tool upgrade projects” instead of using the tool for the projects I bought the tool for.
I bought a new drill for the mill......
Shoulda used this excuse to get an expensive one for drilling
The advantage to a speed-handle over a drill and socket is to be able to gently bring some tension to the vise jaws with one hand while you position or hold the parts with your other hand. With a drill, it's hard to find that butter zone where you just barely start to get some tension between the part and jaws during positioning. Even worse, if you want to loosen it a little to adjust position, then snug it up again, now you're switching direction with the drill, twice. Drill is good for production work where you're just banging the same part or blank into a fixture over and over again with no need for alignment, etc.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday Nobody says you want to tighten the work piece with a drill... If you ever had a work piece flying out of the vise at your face (I did, but I was smart enough to put up a full enclosure with an acrylic door before I let the CNC conversion go hog wild), you know that's not smart! The drill is only used to quickly move the jaw long distance. Then, you put in the regular manual handle for positioning & tightening. Moving the jaw by 6" with the Kurt factory handle is just a lot of silly work! In addition, I don't like the idea that my fingers are in the way holding the work piece when a vise is closing in on them for the kill! Moreover, if you put the vise side way, say, the handle to the right of the table.... most speed handle will hit the table, mine did.... aargh! Guess what "inspired" me to use a drill on the vise? My spanking new speed-handle hit the extension of the table I build to shield the Y-axis motor from my spanking new flood coolant system. *&&(@&#^& aaahhhh....