Landi's presentation was very good. If you want to get more information on this type of advanced topic be sure to watch master beekeepers or professional beekeepers like herself. Stay away from the back yard beekeeper. Another great resource on this top is Michael Palmer and the sustainable apiary.
She says to get them ready for winter in August... But does this mean she no longer makes new colonies from that same date? Or does she & others say not to make new colonies,...from basically what point in the year?
I would add You Can Introduce a Queen Directly into a Hive if she is a LAYING Queen, or a Virgin.I wouldn't walk a Mated Queen that has been caged and has shrunk and NOT Laying for a couple days unless you want her Balled. Sometimes people are exactly right in what they are teaching,but assume Everyone knows EXACTLY what their talking about and fail to realize New Beekeepers can't decipher yet,so they take everything literally.. when they mean a specific way even if they mentioned it broadly .
I understood that newly hatched bees have not oriented to the donor hive, therefore why would they all go back to the hive of origin. Foraging bee are likely to return however. Nurse be also do not orient to the donor hive.
Knowing this, you could put the foragers to work if you need more pollen and/or syrup in the NUC. You could move the donor hive and put the NUC to the place where the donor hive used to sit and the foragers will bring pollen and syrup into the NUC. Make sure to move the donor hive away from it;s original location and put leaves and twiggs on the hive and around the entrance and this will make the donor hive bees to orient.
So she says you have to take the nuke you made to another apiary about 2 miles away.Question? How many of you have a second aviary? If you don.t then guess you are just out of luck? Truth is you don't have to do that.Set an empty box on top.Take a couple frame from the same hive as the nuke and shake some more bees into it.The older field bees,not all but most will fly back to the old box,You don't want them anyways.The young bees will stay .some can't even fly yet .If it bothers you then screen the entrance for a day or two,,,,OR go rent you some land and start another apiary 2 miles away.
I've had luck doing what your talking about. But I get a couple of branches that have thick foliage on them and block the hive. It works great if it's got outside.
Landi's presentation was very good. If you want to get more information on this type of advanced topic be sure to watch master beekeepers or professional beekeepers like herself. Stay away from the back yard beekeeper. Another great resource on this top is Michael Palmer and the sustainable apiary.
She says to get them ready for winter in August...
But does this mean she no longer makes new colonies from that same date? Or does she & others say not to make new colonies,...from basically what point in the year?
I would add You Can Introduce a Queen Directly into a Hive if she is a LAYING Queen, or a Virgin.I wouldn't walk a Mated Queen that has been caged and has shrunk and NOT Laying for a couple days unless you want her Balled. Sometimes people are exactly right in what they are teaching,but assume Everyone knows EXACTLY what their talking about and fail to realize New Beekeepers can't decipher yet,so they take everything literally.. when they mean a specific way even if they mentioned it broadly .
I understood that newly hatched bees have not oriented to the donor hive, therefore why would they all go back to the hive of origin. Foraging bee are likely to return however. Nurse be also do not orient to the donor hive.
They won't, they can't fly.
Knowing this, you could put the foragers to work if you need more pollen and/or syrup in the NUC.
You could move the donor hive and put the NUC to the place where the donor hive used to sit and the foragers will bring pollen and syrup into the NUC.
Make sure to move the donor hive away from it;s original location and put leaves and twiggs on the hive and around the entrance and this will make the donor hive bees to orient.
oh no.....audio is pretty bad....Always use a lapel wireless to you camera. Audio is 95% of videography. ---;)
So she says you have to take the nuke you made to another apiary about 2 miles away.Question? How many of you have a second aviary? If you don.t then guess you are just out of luck? Truth is you don't have to do that.Set an empty box on top.Take a couple frame from the same hive as the nuke and shake some more bees into it.The older field bees,not all but most will fly back to the old box,You don't want them anyways.The young bees will stay .some can't even fly yet .If it bothers you then screen the entrance for a day or two,,,,OR go rent you some land and start another apiary 2 miles away.
I've had luck doing what your talking about.
But I get a couple of branches that have thick foliage on them and block the hive.
It works great if it's got outside.
Or just lock the bees up for a few day.
@@FloryJohann perhaps, but if it's real hot, they will overheat.
They will need water.