Thank you for sharing such a well documented and extremely well executed restoration. The Kennedy Hexacut model 60 has definitely been restored to a high standard. Full credit to you. I do, however, see that the oil damper mechanism is missing the washer and spring beneath the damper ring (with its holes). The effect of the washer is adjusted by another rod which screws into one of those round holes, tapped 1/4 x 20 BSF. Unfortunately my own Hexacut is missing that same washer. Thank you for sharing. 👏👏👍😀
@@UniqueRestorations Further information found online: The dashpot piston should have a thin spring steel washer fitted on its lower side and held in place by a large headed screw screwed into the opposite side of the thread for the central rod. This screw is adjusted to allow the flow of oil into the holes in the piston and the opposing rod is tightened down against it to hold the screw in place. The 'L' shaped off-centre rod bears down on the washer and is used to adjust the flow of oil. I have made myself the missing l shaped rod from a piece of 1/4” rod, tapped 1/4” x 20 BSW (3/4 inch thread) at one end. What I’m trying to find out is the dimensions of the missing washer and retaining bolt.
@@UniqueRestorations Do you have an email address you are willing to share? I have found some photos online which might help you with the missing parts?
A beautiful cosmetic restoration, even down to nickel plating the motor case bolts. Well done Brian. If you don't mind me saying; the technical restoration needs a bit more attention though, unless intended for display purposes only; At 12.12; The motor rear bearing should only be a push fit. The clue is in the two little retention clamp plates, along with the spring washer on the front bearing pushing the shaft rearwards. You shouldn't be hitting the motor shaft as a drift to 'seat' the outer race via shock load through the race grooves & balls or you could end up with a notchy or reduced life bearing. At 21.30; The saw guide hex slide needs those bogus springs removed. The allen cap bolt heads should be seated in their counterbores, with thread tails protruding below the sawframe, and locknuts fitted. The slide should be adjusted & tightly locked to be a close sliding fit over its full range of travel, just like lathe slide gib adjustment. There's nothing stopping those sprung bolts working loose in this very high movement area, (unless you put very strong loctite on them off camera). The very thing you don't want on that hex slide is the ability to rock causing digging in on the ends of the top block & saw frame, generating high load points , excess friction, and uneven wear. At 18.52 when you said you'll leave the nuts loose for now, I was really hoping you'd be showing belt alignment & tensioning. I had to make nutplates to free up one hand to just tighten from the boltheads so the other hand could be used to pull on a piece of bar in the vice to get enough tension for a non slipping belt. Otherwise it's a two person job.
I have had one of these for years -- it is a great piece of kit. I've never restored it as it works fine covered in muck -- I just lubricate it when necessary. Mine has its original cover over the belt drive. It works best and with less binding if it cuts on the pull stroke rather than the push stroke. The lifting handle sticks out to the side of the frame next to where you put Rudolph's nose (there is a threaded hole there). The sump under the plunger should have some thin engine oil in it to cushion the frame as it drops (a bit like a car shock absorber). I also have the original operating instructions as well as a leaflet showing the accessories.
What a useful tool tho it takes up space I’d prefer it to a chop box! PS to keep your unsealed bearings quieter and last longer you should pack them vs greasing the top. To pack a bearing put on a glove take a glob of grease and your bearing and just really work and pack it in there.
Hi Pickle Tree Woodcraft, it is a great tool and a valuable asset to my workshop, with reference to the bearing it's difficult to see everything on camera but I had pushed grease into the spaces before refitting. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Ps I like your channel name. Regards Brian
You cheated, you didn't put the shim washer that controls the feed in the damper 🙂. Very interesting video though, I'll swap you for my Kennedy if you fancy doing another one :-)
@@UniqueRestorations shouldn't it cut just as well on a push as it should on a pull if reversed, sorry I'm ignorant, just curious about the technicality.
Hi Ashe, If you face the teeth forwards the force of the motor makes the teeth dig into metal and it locks up, where as on the reverse stroke its pulled with slightly less force and glides better. Hope that makes sense. Cheers
@@UniqueRestorations Thanks for the elucidation. However, it doesn't make sense if it's a back and forth, that if you reverse it, it no longer functions.
Hi Ashe, if you look at the yellow rotating part it pushes downwards on the forward stroke forcing the teeth into the metal which locks it up. I can only tell you how it works and what it does when you reverse the blade. Most mechanical hacksaw work this way. Regards Brian
Hi Glenn, When assembling it I wanted the Kennedy logo to face front for aesthetics but you will see when its cutting the blade has changed. It cuts on the pull. Regards Brian
![Power Hacksaw [Restoration]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/v7429aWOTF8/mqdefault.jpg)
You don't know how much joy it gives me to see a UK plug and socket it a resto vid!!
Hi Loxxxton Poxxxton I know what you mean, there is a lack of UK interest in this niche. Hopefully it will change in time. Regards Brian
Nice restoration friend, seem's to work well have a nice day !!!.👍👍👍
Excellent restoration... I love the way it came out.
Very well done. Looks as good as new if not better.
That is awesome how you restored that motorized hacksaw. It looks much better and it works like a charm too. Great work.
Cheers George, Regards Brian
I really enjoyed this restoration. That's a very nice little saw, I've never seen one like it. You did a great restoration on it.
That came out awesome!! Totally something to keep around the shop to use.
Hi Patrick, I'm really happy how it turned out and yes it will be a great tool for the shop. Regards Brian
excellent restoration of a complicated machine 👏👏👏👏👏
Thanks Navigator of none, it was the most complicated restoration I've done. Regards Brian
@@UniqueRestorations 👍👍👍
Awesome restoration on a very unique tool!
Thanks Lee glad you liked it. Regards Brian
@@UniqueRestorations I'd love to have one of these small saws in my shop!
Thank you for sharing such a well documented and extremely well executed restoration. The Kennedy Hexacut model 60 has definitely been restored to a high standard. Full credit to you.
I do, however, see that the oil damper mechanism is missing the washer and spring beneath the damper ring (with its holes). The effect of the washer is adjusted by another rod which screws into one of those round holes, tapped 1/4 x 20 BSF. Unfortunately my own Hexacut is missing that same washer.
Thank you for sharing.
👏👏👍😀
Thanks Andrew, really appreciate the feedback. I'll do a bit of research to look for this part, I would like it to be complete. Thanks for the info.
@@UniqueRestorations Further information found online:
The dashpot piston should have a thin spring steel washer fitted on its lower side and held in place by a large headed screw screwed into the opposite side of the thread for the central rod. This screw is adjusted to allow the flow of oil into the holes in the piston and the opposing rod is tightened down against it to hold the screw in place. The 'L' shaped off-centre rod bears down on the washer and is used to adjust the flow of oil.
I have made myself the missing l shaped rod from a piece of 1/4” rod, tapped 1/4” x 20 BSW (3/4 inch thread) at one end.
What I’m trying to find out is the dimensions of the missing washer and retaining bolt.
@@UniqueRestorations Do you have an email address you are willing to share? I have found some photos online which might help you with the missing parts?
Very nice refurbishing. I don't see anything I would have done differently. And there was no part over looked either. Perfect! Thumbs Up!
Thanks Gary really appreciate that. Regards Brian
très belle restoration,sa mérite beaucoup plus de 17000 Vues 🙂👍
Thanks Henri
Your videos are great as is your subject material. I really appreciate that you have a write up on the piece too!
Thanks GT Racer347 I think when you spend so much time on a project it needs a good description to go with it. Regards Brian
Excellent restoration very beautiful
Great restoration on a cool tool.
Thanks Larry regards Brian
Great work very rrc which is a great compliment 👍
very amazing and very awesome...... nice restoration.....
Thanks Robin
Excellent restoration, subscribed.
Cheers Robett, Glad you liked it. Regards Brian
Nice job, thanks for sharing!
Thanks Lori, regards Brian
An excellent restoration! What a unique find. Great job 👏
Thanks Sarah glad you liked it regards Brian
I hope your channel grows. I enjoyed this. 👍🏻 New subscriber
REALLY GOOD RESTORATION !!! Really use full machine !!!!!
Thanks Carl. It was a great project to work on. Regards Brian
Спасибо большое мастеру за отличную работу. Благодарен за труд. Удачи на канале. 🛠️📹👍🔥
Wonderful and work and neat
Thanks Tom. Regards Brian
A beautiful cosmetic restoration, even down to nickel plating the motor case bolts. Well done Brian. If you don't mind me saying; the technical restoration needs a bit more attention though, unless intended for display purposes only; At 12.12; The motor rear bearing should only be a push fit. The clue is in the two little retention clamp plates, along with the spring washer on the front bearing pushing the shaft rearwards. You shouldn't be hitting the motor shaft as a drift to 'seat' the outer race via shock load through the race grooves & balls or you could end up with a notchy or reduced life bearing. At 21.30; The saw guide hex slide needs those bogus springs removed. The allen cap bolt heads should be seated in their counterbores, with thread tails protruding below the sawframe, and locknuts fitted. The slide should be adjusted & tightly locked to be a close sliding fit over its full range of travel, just like lathe slide gib adjustment. There's nothing stopping those sprung bolts working loose in this very high movement area, (unless you put very strong loctite on them off camera). The very thing you don't want on that hex slide is the ability to rock causing digging in on the ends of the top block & saw frame, generating high load points , excess friction, and uneven wear.
At 18.52 when you said you'll leave the nuts loose for now, I was really hoping you'd be showing belt alignment & tensioning. I had to make nutplates to free up one hand to just tighten from the boltheads so the other hand could be used to pull on a piece of bar in the vice to get enough tension for a non slipping belt. Otherwise it's a two person job.
Parabéns pelo seu talentoso trabalho
I have had one of these for years -- it is a great piece of kit. I've never restored it as it works fine covered in muck -- I just lubricate it when necessary. Mine has its original cover over the belt drive. It works best and with less binding if it cuts on the pull stroke rather than the push stroke. The lifting handle sticks out to the side of the frame next to where you put Rudolph's nose (there is a threaded hole there). The sump under the plunger should have some thin engine oil in it to cushion the frame as it drops (a bit like a car shock absorber). I also have the original operating instructions as well as a leaflet showing the accessories.
Good job!
Thanks Coolerss, glad you enjoyed it regards Brian
Beautiful job👌👌👌
Thanks Restore and Restoration. Regards Brian
@@UniqueRestorations 🤔🤔🤔
Came out great 😁👍 good job 😊
Thanks JB Prospector, regards Brian
Awesome job
Thanks Khalid Regards Brian
Super kleine Maschine 👍
Thanks @mrsunelectronics544
I'm a new subscriber. I'm at the bottom working my way up.
niced restoration
Thanks Car Restore. Regards Brian
What a useful tool tho it takes up space I’d prefer it to a chop box! PS to keep your unsealed bearings quieter and last longer you should pack them vs greasing the top. To pack a bearing put on a glove take a glob of grease and your bearing and just really work and pack it in there.
Hi Pickle Tree Woodcraft, it is a great tool and a valuable asset to my workshop, with reference to the bearing it's difficult to see everything on camera but I had pushed grease into the spaces before refitting. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Ps I like your channel name. Regards Brian
Five stars works
Thanks Dmitriy I think it turned out well. Regards Brian
When I saw the thumbnail I though it was a Gundam channel that I am subscribe to.🤣
Hi Luis, I just checked out Gundam and I can see what you mean ha. Regards Brian
Great job. What is the component with the rubber boot?
Thanks Stanley, I forgot to add text for that part, I put oil inside that well and it acts as a damper when cutting. Regards Brian
The bearing is rough cause it’s from Scotland, everything is rough in Scotland especially the wummin lol 😂
20:00 пыльник надо надеть до конца и затянуть хомутом. И желательно смазки ещё туда, под пыльник.
Lastima no use todo el largo de la hoja
You cheated, you didn't put the shim washer that controls the feed in the damper 🙂. Very interesting video though, I'll swap you for my Kennedy if you fancy doing another one :-)
22:50 а где кожух защитный? Порвётся ремень случайно и нанесёт травму.
The jubilee clips are missing on the bellows (top and bottom). As it is, the bellows has no purpose.
Can you reverse the blade in the holder in order to use both halves of the blade?
Hi Ashe, The blade can only be used if it cuts on the pull so no the blade cannot be switched around. Regards Brian
@@UniqueRestorations shouldn't it cut just as well on a push as it should on a pull if reversed, sorry I'm ignorant, just curious about the technicality.
Hi Ashe, If you face the teeth forwards the force of the motor makes the teeth dig into metal and it locks up, where as on the reverse stroke its pulled with slightly less force and glides better. Hope that makes sense. Cheers
@@UniqueRestorations Thanks for the elucidation. However, it doesn't make sense if it's a back and forth, that if you reverse it, it no longer functions.
Hi Ashe, if you look at the yellow rotating part it pushes downwards on the forward stroke forcing the teeth into the metal which locks it up. I can only tell you how it works and what it does when you reverse the blade. Most mechanical hacksaw work this way. Regards Brian
Hacksaw blade is the wrong way round......mechanical hacksaws cut on the PULL stroke...
Apart from that.....good
🇬🇧☹️
Hi Glenn, When assembling it I wanted the Kennedy logo to face front for aesthetics but you will see when its cutting the blade has changed. It cuts on the pull. Regards Brian
23:11 за это дизлайк, в каждом просмотренном видео поставлю, если увижу.