Online Japanese Carpentry Course through Real Construction⇒www.kickstarter.com/projects/1911438091/online-japanese-carpentry-course-through-real-construction We are building a Japanese carpentry school in France. We will document this entire process with drawings, photos and videos, and make it an online course so that everyone can learn about Japanese carpentry in English through this real construction project. We will use traditional Japanese techniques and construction methods, and use local materials such as wood, stone, and soil to build the most sustainable buildings possible. We hope you enjoy our carpentry learning materials. Let’s enjoy woodworking together!
Someone asked about the angles and wood: They range from 40-60 degrees. ( I made one that was fine at 35 degrees) I have a list somewhere. However, most planes are at 40 degrees, which is ideal for softwoods, but works well with any wood that does not tear out. Also the length of most blades will have the blade at the right fit, in a standard dai, cut to that angle. Of course you can vary the size of dai, but it would require one be able to find that wood, if one was using the authentic materials. Japanese white oak is the best wood I have found. Japanese red oak is also good, and while prettier, it is a little less optimal, more prone to chipping. Of American woods I have used, white oak is good. I have used beech, and it is fine, but too light. I found maple also works but is very hard and stiff, and lighter, none of which has the right feel. On can use red oak but it doesn't take fine detail. You can basically use anything you have, and if you might need to add something here or there it to make it work. I hear that maybe Burr Oak is better than NA white. Planes are easy to make. The first one I made with a blade that cost 13.50 is still my favourite plane. I have had to resole it twice, because it was made of western oak, but it has been around for over 40 years. The second one I made took shavings of .0004", just like the better planes one can buy. At the time one had to know how to sharpen, and how to to tune the plane, even if one bought a commercial plane. In Japan the dai maker will fit your blade. So there wasn't a huge advantage to buying a completed plane, as they were basically a kit that you have to do the most difficult work on anyway. Around 2000 I went to a Japanese plane seminar, and I learned some tricks. The expert makes 12 planes a day in Japan, so he works quickly, and he can handle any of hundreds of different styles, while in NA, we use only a few styles. However, the basic planes I made that weekend won the planing contest, along with another person. It is just basic woodworking.
this was so helpful on my kanna quest. also, thank you so much for the translator as auto-translate takes some mind-bending tricks to understand meaning.
It is actually very simple woodworking. It was an early project I did 45 years ago. You need a basic layout. You can copy pictures. Set the bedding angle by drawing the blade angle (say 40 degrees on the side of the block) Then scribe the back on the block draw these lines around the block. The cutting edge is narrower than the width of the blade, so you want to start opening up the mortise to the width of the cutting edge, so you have material to lock in the blade. Often the cutting edge is a little wider than you will use, and it needs to be ground down so that the blade can access the side mortises, while allowing a shaving to come through. You chop the bedding angle by coming from both top and bottom. You meet up slightly high of the line, and pare it down to the line. When you lay out the lines, it should look as though you can only get the blade 2/3rds of the way in, that way you have lots of space to fit the blade. It is possible to skip all the mortising and saw the plane out. You saw the block up by ripping the cheeks off then cutting the ramps and mouth, and then you glue the plane back together You still have to cut the mortises by hand, but at least your starting point has most of the wood removed.
They range from 35-50 degrees. I have a list somewhere. However, most planes are at 40 degrees, which is ideal for softwoods, but works well with any wood that does not tear out. Also the length of most blades will have the blade at the right fit, in a standard dai, cut to that angle. Of course you can vary the size of dai, but it would require one be able to find that wood, if one was using the authentic materials. Japanese white oak is the best wood I have found. Japanese red oak is also good, and while prettier, it is a little less optimal, more prone to chipping. Of American woods I have used, white oak is good. I have used beech, and it is fine, but too light. I found maple also works but is very hard and stiff, and lighter, none of which has the right feel. On can use red oak but it doesn't take fine detail. You can basically use anything you have, and if you might need to add something here or there it to make it work. I hear that maybe Burr Oak is better than NA white. Planes are easy to make. The first one I made with a blade that cost 13.50 is still my favourite plane. I have had to resole it twice, because it was made of western oak, but it has been around for over 40 years. The second one I made took shavings of .0004", just like the better planes one can buy. At the time one had to know how to sharpen, and how to to tune the plane, even if one bought a commercial plane. In Japan the dai maker will fit your blade. So there wasn't a huge advantage to buying a completed plane, as they were basically a kit that you have to do the most difficult work on anyway. Around 2000 I went to a Japanese plane seminar, and I learned some tricks. The expert makes 12 planes a day in Japan, so he works quickly, and he can handle any of hundreds of different styles, while in NA, we use only a few styles. However, the basic planes I made that weekend won the planing contest, along with another person. It is just basic woodworking.
White oak works fine, if you can get the Japanese oak it is better. I have built in several other materials, but the oaks seem better. I would like to try either English, or burr, both of which are more compact. I made my first plane 45 years ago, and I still use it. It is a simple project, all the hard parts are basically just the maintenance one does if one is handed a functioning plane. mouth is at a 4 from the back 5 from the front ratio. Depends on the length of your dai, which you can find in catalogs. Angle is 40-43 degrees depending on wood. I have seen them 35-60, but for a start... You can see some other instructions I put in the thread. If you look at the blade in plan view, you will notice the edge is narrower than than the stock above it, and the top of the blade is wider still. This has to do with chip clearance and retention around the mortise. You will also notice that on some planes the angle at the mouth depends on weather a sub blade is used, or not. I prefer planes where the sub blade is not used, so long as the wood is clean. And I think it makes it easier for a first timed builder.
Online Japanese Carpentry Course through Real Construction⇒www.kickstarter.com/projects/1911438091/online-japanese-carpentry-course-through-real-construction
We are building a Japanese carpentry school in France.
We will document this entire process with drawings, photos and videos, and make it an online course so that everyone can learn about Japanese carpentry in English through this real construction project.
We will use traditional Japanese techniques and construction methods, and use local materials such as wood, stone, and soil to build the most sustainable buildings possible. We hope you enjoy our carpentry learning materials.
Let’s enjoy woodworking together!
Someone asked about the angles and wood:
They range from 40-60 degrees. ( I made one that was fine at 35 degrees) I have a list somewhere. However, most planes are at 40 degrees, which is ideal for softwoods, but works well with any wood that does not tear out. Also the length of most blades will have the blade at the right fit, in a standard dai, cut to that angle. Of course you can vary the size of dai, but it would require one be able to find that wood, if one was using the authentic materials.
Japanese white oak is the best wood I have found. Japanese red oak is also good, and while prettier, it is a little less optimal, more prone to chipping.
Of American woods I have used, white oak is good. I have used beech, and it is fine, but too light. I found maple also works but is very hard and stiff, and lighter, none of which has the right feel. On can use red oak but it doesn't take fine detail. You can basically use anything you have, and if you might need to add something here or there it to make it work. I hear that maybe Burr Oak is better than NA white.
Planes are easy to make. The first one I made with a blade that cost 13.50 is still my favourite plane. I have had to resole it twice, because it was made of western oak, but it has been around for over 40 years. The second one I made took shavings of .0004", just like the better planes one can buy. At the time one had to know how to sharpen, and how to to tune the plane, even if one bought a commercial plane. In Japan the dai maker will fit your blade. So there wasn't a huge advantage to buying a completed plane, as they were basically a kit that you have to do the most difficult work on anyway.
Around 2000 I went to a Japanese plane seminar, and I learned some tricks. The expert makes 12 planes a day in Japan, so he works quickly, and he can handle any of hundreds of different styles, while in NA, we use only a few styles. However, the basic planes I made that weekend won the planing contest, along with another person. It is just basic woodworking.
昔の大工さんは鉋台まで自作するとは聞いた事がありますが、それを現実に動画で見られるとは。。。。すばらしいです。
this was so helpful on my kanna quest. also, thank you so much for the translator as auto-translate takes some mind-bending tricks to understand meaning.
This is the best how to make a plane that I have watched. Thank you
As ever, superb craftsmanship and excellent explanations showing the logic and process!!
Qué placer estar disfrutando de estas clases maestras desde el otro lado del mundo. Saludos desde Argentina!
I learned a lot. Amazing
とても上手
ノミと、かんな。大工さんに、派材で使わせてもらった。つかかって、出来なかった。(当たり前‼)派こぼれ起こす。🍀🍀🍀🍀凄い業。🍀🍀🍀🍀
道具は、何時もピカピカです。
Какой угол наклона ножа?благодарю.
This is what im waiting for, an english translation of how to make a dai.
It is actually very simple woodworking. It was an early project I did 45 years ago. You need a basic layout. You can copy pictures. Set the bedding angle by drawing the blade angle (say 40 degrees on the side of the block) Then scribe the back on the block draw these lines around the block. The cutting edge is narrower than the width of the blade, so you want to start opening up the mortise to the width of the cutting edge, so you have material to lock in the blade. Often the cutting edge is a little wider than you will use, and it needs to be ground down so that the blade can access the side mortises, while allowing a shaving to come through.
You chop the bedding angle by coming from both top and bottom. You meet up slightly high of the line, and pare it down to the line. When you lay out the lines, it should look as though you can only get the blade 2/3rds of the way in, that way you have lots of space to fit the blade.
It is possible to skip all the mortising and saw the plane out. You saw the block up by ripping the cheeks off then cutting the ramps and mouth, and then you glue the plane back together You still have to cut the mortises by hand, but at least your starting point has most of the wood removed.
HI Suikoushya , what are the corect angels for Kanna? Is oak would be good wood for this tool
They range from 35-50 degrees. I have a list somewhere. However, most planes are at 40 degrees, which is ideal for softwoods, but works well with any wood that does not tear out. Also the length of most blades will have the blade at the right fit, in a standard dai, cut to that angle. Of course you can vary the size of dai, but it would require one be able to find that wood, if one was using the authentic materials.
Japanese white oak is the best wood I have found. Japanese red oak is also good, and while prettier, it is a little less optimal, more prone to chipping.
Of American woods I have used, white oak is good. I have used beech, and it is fine, but too light. I found maple also works but is very hard and stiff, and lighter, none of which has the right feel. On can use red oak but it doesn't take fine detail. You can basically use anything you have, and if you might need to add something here or there it to make it work. I hear that maybe Burr Oak is better than NA white.
Planes are easy to make. The first one I made with a blade that cost 13.50 is still my favourite plane. I have had to resole it twice, because it was made of western oak, but it has been around for over 40 years. The second one I made took shavings of .0004", just like the better planes one can buy. At the time one had to know how to sharpen, and how to to tune the plane, even if one bought a commercial plane. In Japan the dai maker will fit your blade. So there wasn't a huge advantage to buying a completed plane, as they were basically a kit that you have to do the most difficult work on anyway.
Around 2000 I went to a Japanese plane seminar, and I learned some tricks. The expert makes 12 planes a day in Japan, so he works quickly, and he can handle any of hundreds of different styles, while in NA, we use only a few styles. However, the basic planes I made that weekend won the planing contest, along with another person. It is just basic woodworking.
Is it Dylan translating?
hi do you have plans available, got my hands on a 70mm kanna blade + chipbreaker but i dont have any body to put it in
you can find plans in Dale Brotherton's book. Odate's is good too, but less complete. Kurashige sells daï for 70mm blades
White oak works fine, if you can get the Japanese oak it is better. I have built in several other materials, but the oaks seem better. I would like to try either English, or burr, both of which are more compact.
I made my first plane 45 years ago, and I still use it. It is a simple project, all the hard parts are basically just the maintenance one does if one is handed a functioning plane. mouth is at a 4 from the back 5 from the front ratio. Depends on the length of your dai, which you can find in catalogs. Angle is 40-43 degrees depending on wood. I have seen them 35-60, but for a start...
You can see some other instructions I put in the thread.
If you look at the blade in plan view, you will notice the edge is narrower than than the stock above it, and the top of the blade is wider still. This has to do with chip clearance and retention around the mortise. You will also notice that on some planes the angle at the mouth depends on weather a sub blade is used, or not. I prefer planes where the sub blade is not used, so long as the wood is clean. And I think it makes it easier for a first timed builder.
Verygood .in Japan there is no kind of plane only one
Not sure what that means, there are many different plane types, they all adhere to the basic style.
@@HondoTrailside OK
how l do make around groove plane?
@@HondoTrailside OK. how l do around groove plane?
刃の仕込み角度は45度ですか？
A cuntos grados es la inclinación ?
What kind of wood is used for the Kanna Dai?
I use a Japanese oak for the dai.
@@suikoushya Thank you! Would any kind of wood work, or should it be a hard wood?
Hard and flexible wood.
現時香港木工師父都唔用鉋,曰本木工做出鉋係最好,中國人將日本刨子抄到天價,唔識曆史千年都係做出嚟用人手做.
鐫の幅はどの様に選択しているのでしょうか？
すいません。
「鐫」とはどういう意味ですか？
この字を初めて知りました。
もしかして鎬のことかな？
"のみ"の横幅です
幅が狭いと少しの力で削れますが沢山回数を重ねる必要があります。幅が広いと力が必要ですが一度に沢山の作業ができます。もちろん穴より小さな幅である必要があります。
@@suikoushya いつもご返事有難とう御座いますしかも丁寧なご返信とても感謝致します
とても参考に成りました誠に有難とう御座います