Seig SC3 Mini Lathe Review
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
- This video is a review of the Seig SC3 mini lathe, including: Chuck runout test, dial increment accuracy, tail stock concentricity test and usability.
I also machine a blanking plug for an XS650 tachometer port.
Thanks for the review Brodie your making the decision easier to buy one of these mini lathes.
I was always curious about the accuracy and it should also be more than accurate for what I build as well.
so thanks again and keep up the great content.
Thanks mate. I'm pretty happy with my decision. It opens up a world of possibilities and if I find i need something bigger later on, it will have been a good training tool.
Yeah and now that you have the mini lathe you can wait untill the perfect machine comes up in your price range instead of buying the first thing that is "close enough"
Over 1k subs!! Congrats brother! well done! Video quality is still top notch! Cant wait for whats to come in the future!
Thanks man. It's making me between $1.80-$2.00 per day. So it is paying for the kids pocket money. Hopefully I can get it to the point where it starts paying for itself.
@@2wheelworkshop thats the dream! its been a fantastic journey to follow!
I've been thinking about getting exactly this pack from Ausee for a while but it's hard to tell how good they are when they're mixed up with all the other eBay clones (I think they're all made from the same blueprints, but to very different qualities and with different electronics). This video has really reassured me that this will probably do everything I'm after. Thanks for putting this together!
If you haven't seen Blondihacks' lathe skills series and her two "absolute beginners" videos, I really recommend them. I think it's somewhere in there I learned what I suspect is the answer to your bad finish problem on that tube. There's many different types of steels, much more to it than just "brass, aluminium, steel", and very subtly different material can give a really different machining experience. Scrap material of unknown origin can sometimes just be awful to cut with a lathe tool, no matter what you do about it. It's a topic worth reading up on. Look up, for example, exactly what makes "free machining steel" the way it is.
Oh, and I've seen a few guides out there to making a guard to keep chips out of the carriage gears. There's loads of mod ideas out there for these things.
I'm glad my video made your decision a bit easier. I will check out the blondihacks videos you mentioned and I am already planning a few mods that I have seen on UA-cam.
@@2wheelworkshop When it comes to learning videos I try to watch all of them,, that's how I got here !!!
My go to people so far are Blondihacks, This Old Tony, mrpete222, Abom79, and Frank Hoose. There are many others and I learn something new all the time with them
Good luck and enjoy !!
Also thinking of getting one..are they any good
It does everything I need it to. There are better lathes out there but you will pay a lot more for them. I am pretty happy with it.
@@2wheelworkshop thats good to hear ..thats about the money id like to spend will be handy for small jobs for sure..thanks..great review too
Thanks for the video,,, I bought one just about like yours and I've had to do a lot of mods,, and yep they geared section needs covered , I made a plastic cover that worked,,,, My next project is to build a carriage lock,, There are many mods that will improve the machine.
I'm thinking the carriage lock will probably be the first mod I do. I would be interested to hear which mods you have done and what you would recommend.
@@2wheelworkshop Hello again,,,, where did I start,,
#1 A quick change tool post and a mod to the tool post,,,,, the lever that has a cam on the QCT is aluminum and it gave out to soon so I made one out of steel, No problems now.
#2 I made a block so I could remove the compound slide when not in use, makes it very rigid.
#3 I made a hand crank for the lead screw on the right end so I could move the lead screw very slow if needed.
#4 Make a carriage stop , that helps you from running into the chuck with the tools.
#5 I made a tool holder that holds my Dial Indicator, that's nice to have.
#6 I had my wife pick up a dish drainer from the dollar store and I custom fit it to the bottom of the lathe to catch all the shavings ,,,, makes it easy to clean.
For mods that I will be doing are :
#1 changing the motor out with a treadmill motor and controller
#2 buy all metal gears,, the plastic is starting to show a lot cracks.
#3 Add an LED light to see the work better,,, I'm 69 and I need all the help I can get.
I've never owned a lathe before so this is all new to me and was something I wanted to learn.
Thanks again
Ron
Thanks Ron. I am definitely getting a QCT and I really like the idea for the hand crank on the lead screw.
About the runout, put the indicator on and then tighten all 3 chuck nuts accordingly to the runout. With this method you can get down to 0.01mm runout. Because the 3 jaw doesnt tighten perfectly on the jaws. And if you turn a part and then have to flip it, I start with getting it to 0.05mm runout with a small hammer and then adjust the chuck screws to 0.01mm runout.
I'll give that a go next time. Thanks mate.
Thanks for the review. You just said "doggie"... funny! Too bad living in the US Minnesota, I have to convert every dimension you say into Imperial. Otherwise, great review!
Thanks mate
very good review from USA!
Thanks mate. I really appreciate the feedback.
2:11 I am wondering if the cable reel is causing you any overheating issues if you are running your lathe for longer periods of time?
It was a temporary solution. It is plugged directly into an outlet now
Just got a 7/14vevor lathe for $525. Shipped has its typical problems but. For $500 it gets the job done..... Also came with set of brazed carbide tooling and set of metal gears and other misc goodys
Even if it only lasts a few years at $500 you can't complain.
@@2wheelworkshop ya but thiers really nothing to go bad except speed control
Why don't you use a micrometer to measure your diameters ? The microcaliper is not so easy to use and is really only for approximation. Also, I think you should do several measurements and look at the average, because your measurements may have variation due to your measuring technique. And on use of the caliper ... I recommend you take a reading while you are on the piece rather than taking it off the piece to read the scale. Ditto micrometer. It is amazing how much you can divert the caliper from the actual reading just by removing it from the work piece. Just my one Bob's worth. All the best from an Ozzie living in Japan ! Bob.
Hi Bob. The only micrometer that I have is too small and in imperial (I use it for measuring projectile diameter) I will collect more tools as I go. Thanks for the advice on measuring technique.
Hi! With the Sieg C3 what would the rpms be with aluminium and brass? Is there some sort of chart i can download? Best regards from Denmark.
I honestly don't feel that I am experienced enough to give any advice on this. I did a lot of google research and found the setting that got me the best results with the tooling I have but I don't have an rpm readout on my machine. Try Blondihacks youtube channel.
The youtube algorithm has sent me your way. I'm in Oz too and I've got a lathe on the way that's due to arrive mid November ( A TU-2004). I did look at the the seig and also the vevor but decided to spend the extra because the optimum lathes appeared to be more robust and I want to be doing a lot of threading so it made sense.
I've heard that those brazed carbide tools can sometimes require a bit of touch up work to get them nice and sharp before using which may be the issue you're getting with surface finish. I'm expecting to run into the same issue with the insert tooling I have. As i understand it, it comes down to how much grunt the lathe has as to how well they work.
Have you found a good source in Oz for steel and other metals for turning? That's probably my next challenge :-(
I think it had a bit to do with the work peice, as the finish is better on everything else that i have done. It could still be better though so I will have a go at re-grinding the tooling and see if it helps.
I have been getting my aluminium bar stock from ebay and the steel from my local steel supplier.
If you have a taper when cutting straight on your piece, that means your base is twisted. Look up “how to level a metal lathe”
The angle you've got the tool set, is not helping with the finish.
It should be more or less at 90 degrees to the workpiece, so the tool tapers away from the cutting point, by only that same few degrees.
Awesome. Thanks for the tip
Gidday Mate
as you Get more experienced You should be able to free hand that Taper on the End Of that plug by using the carrage and the cross slide togeather Takes a bit of practice but it comes easy after a few Goes saves Buggerising around changing the compound angle esp as its a bitch to get at the Locking bolts
And if the Taper is only for asthetics it dosent have to be that accurate then finish with a file
Anyway Great vid just about to order one myself
Thanks mate. I'll give it a try
I got one from EBay , honestly it’s junk ,80% made up of plastic , I ended up buying a Vevor 7 x 14 much better quality and a higher price .