To late now but in the future install the rubber boot on a diamond position instead of like you have it now so water want collect on top and will run off easy.
Best video I have seen so far on how to install on a metal roof, my wood stove is rated for 2500 square feet, my pipe run is 16' or so. I am using triple wall from the ceiling and through the roof to cap, single wall from the stove to the ceiling to capture more heat for the first 8'.
great video, I'm an installer and there was nothing you said or did that I would disagree with. it's rare to find such a great video that is actually done well and end up being code compliant. I'll be sharing with my DIY clients.
It came with the Selkirk Duravent rubber boot flashing kit. I just bought one. In the box is the rubber boot, a coil of sheet steel and the four strips with which you make that heat shield, the three little brackets that secure the assembly to the plywood, a coil of aluminum to make the cone-shaped counterflashing and a bag of roofing screws. The install is a bit of a pain and, in my opinion, more complicated than it needed to be. But the Code requires it.
Really nice job and good clear instructions. I’ve seen a lot of people go through metal roofs with all sorts of different methods but now that the rubber type material they have for the boot life is easier. Only thing I would have done different would install a stainless steel clamp over that boot.
Hello Paul and Emily, you guys have done wonderful, thanks for the explanation. To many QC and safety critics here. Never mind them . Good video. Stay safe and healthy. Thanks 😊
Wow this is so interesting to me! As I do this as a profession in New Zealand our rules and regulations are way different, 1. You can’t have a circular hole in the ceiling it has to be square to allow for breathing airflow, 2 the roof has to be back flashed ( a piece of metal that goes over the penetration ) and the aqua seal that goes around the chimney/liner on the outside of the roof MUST be put down diamond shape to allow water to run away not build up at the top, we also have a trip skin system you’ll have your outter liner inner baffle and inner flue, also inner flue MUST be sealed with fire cement to stop leaking carbon oxide.
You can’t beat all the rules and regulations and of course paying the relevant council fees here in New Zealand.. Marlborough District Council has a competition with the rest of the country about how many new fees that they can put on the homeowners, sometimes even requiring us to pay for what has or(probably not) occurred on the land, going back to 1920(is their latest con)
Stick another 36 inches of flue on top of that chimney to get the end of the pipe above the swirl and backdraft inducing zone caused by the tumbling of the air caused by wind hitting the ridgeline. Brace with 3x wire/metal band stays to counter high wind situations...
good job ,will be going at mine shortly 2 stoves, Always check for wiring,water pipes, camera cables etc before you drill and cut into a ceiling,roof, Denis, in ireland.
A lot of good detail given here. I have a high vaulted ceiling. I used single wall pipe up to the ceiling box. This gives me a lot of good heat from the chimney and is much cheaper than double and triple wall insulated pipe. I added a magnetically held shield behind the chimney on the first four feet, that keeps my wall behind the stove cool. A near by ceiling fan set to pull up, forces trapped heat from the ceiling. This makes a quite installation compared to most stove fans.
Love your show, many many great ideas. Suggestion: Wouldn't it have been better if you would have "diamond-ed" your rubber seal? (Point the corner of the rubber seal towards the top of the roof line). That way you would have less standing water on top of the seal, the diamond installation would allow a minimum of standing water. Just a thought. I saw Kyle do this this on R&R Buildings.
@@ketertrue No, these rubber seal kits are easy to install, correctly or not. They easily go up and over the ridges of the metal roofing. Setting up on a diamond pattern is the only accepted method around here; our inspectors will reject the method seen here. Otherwise, great video!
Very nice .I would like to know if the rubber holds up to any creosote that drips on to it . I have a chimney on a tin roof and the creosote dripping on the tin eats holes in it .
Great job, great video! Thanks for doing this. One question, do you have the two foot chimney clearance above your ridge line that I've seen recommended?
Hope you have ceiling fan and a good blower b/c if you're in an area where the temp drops below freezing, you're going to have a hard time heating that massive place.
Same question I have! I have been searching for the heatshield and have only found it in a kit that Selkirk sells called Selkirk 200275 Galvanized Steel Rubber Boot Chimney Flashing Kit. I have found it at a few retailers and eBay. There is also a Selkirk SuperPro All-Fuel Chimney Pipe Rafter Shield - but it doesn't look to have the stand-off pieces of the one Paul used. Good luck.
Make one. Any type of flat coil metal. Just put 3 screws and done 💁🏼 People make things much harder than they are.. common sense - don't need to 'buy' everything.
Excellent tutorial. Thanks for going into such detail. Tried to look up your website but it is down ? Same problem with the other links. Don't know if you are aware of this.
Thanks for letting me know. We changed our business name to MR Post Frame since I’m now building for other people. New site is mrpostframe.com Sorry for inconvenience, we’ll get those corrected.
Not sure if you have covered this topic and issue as of yet. Air recovery or make up air as I hear it called. With a wood stove, it needs air to combust obviously. In a new tight and air sealed house, are you installing an ERV or HRV into your HVAC? Same issue comes into play with your kitchen exhaust fan.
Your ceiling box should come with the trim piece. I bought everything from discountchimneysupply.com. If you call them and have your ceiling heights and information they will help you get all the necessary parts.
I have a question for you just curious why you didn’t use Single wall pipe from fireplace to the ceiling to radiate more heat in your house versus going with double wall pipe just wondering your thoughts on that thank you everything looks great God bless
Really helpful video, thanks! Where do you source the adjustable heat shield? I've got an odd size pipe (9 in), so an adjustable shield would be awesome.
why would you put double wall pipe directly from the stove? that should start at the ceiling so nothing catches fire past that. if you start it at the stove than you're just loosing that that extra heat.
Depending on how efficient the stove is at radiating the heat... and that standing column of exhaust air had better have some heat in it to "lift" it out of the chimney top to the outside.... because the backflow if it cools too much is going to settle back down into the firebox and back out into the house....
We are installing a wood stove chimney through our standing seam metal roof. Duravent does not seem to prescribe a silicone boot/jack for installations. I see that your silicon boot does not actually touch the double wall chimney pipe - it contacts the heat shield. So that leaves the two inch airspace between combustibles? And thank you for an informative video!
Where is it that a pole barn style roof meets building code for a home? Those trusses must be 4 or 6 feet apart. Can you even walk on that roof without denting it?
Get on the roof and brush out the pipe as per usual. You don't need to do that often if you burn the correct wood at the right moisture level and fire the stove at the right flame properties.......
This installation is backwards. You should install your ceiling box and double wall SS pipe during construction with an insulation shield. This all with an idea of where the stove will be located. Then, after everything else is done, you install your black pipe and stove. You do this because the chimney placement depends completely on the truss location, so that determines location. Also, silicone itself is more than enough to keep the storm collar in place, you don't need additional fasteners. In any case, you don't place the stove first and then work off that, the structure determines location.
What kit did you use through the roof? Curious to know why there isnt a drip stop or moisture barrier on roof metal? Does it not condensate in your attic? Great video!!
We don't have anything extreme as far as condensation goes. Attic is well insulated and air sealed, plastic on the ceiling, etc. We recommend at least drip stop but you don't have to have it.
You know, the greatest blessing a man or woman can have is being healthy to do things.
So true.
Best overview of woodstove Chimney installation by far. Comprehensive but also not filled with unnecessary fluff and off-topic chit chat. Thanks!
To late now but in the future install the rubber boot on a diamond position instead of like you have it now so water want collect on top and will run off easy.
2 hours ago, this comment would have been great. Lol
Too late now, but it's too late...
Now Thats a Teriffic Idear Cheers Ive got too do one soon
Yes sir GOSPEL
Best install I have seen. Been looking all over the internet, even manufacturer install videos for instruction. You nailed it. TY.
Best video I have seen so far on how to install on a metal roof, my wood stove is rated for 2500 square feet, my pipe run is 16' or so. I am using triple wall from the ceiling and through the roof to cap, single wall from the stove to the ceiling to capture more heat for the first 8'.
Only video out there that is properly done. great job.
Thank you!
Absolutely the most concise and fully thorough description on how to do this I should've come here first wow thank you so much
Great instructional video. But furthermore, you have given me the blueprint to my dream home of 25yrs. Heaven on earth. Thank you sir.
Thanks for watching!
I can feel the warmth of the fire already. Well done.
Thanks for watching!
Watched five other videos of the same thing. I have the most faith in yours. Good job.
Thanks!
If I needed some one too install a chimney I would pick you . You always go out of your way too do a perfect job !
Wow, thank you. Really appreciate that.
Never seen a better install ‼️‼️. Vinny 🇺🇸
Thanks for watching!
Your stove is huge and the wall with the pipe going up looks amazing. Well done it looks perfect
Thanks 👍
I appreciate that you take the time to explain the installation. Keep up the good work!
Thanks, will do!
great video, I'm an installer and there was nothing you said or did that I would disagree with. it's rare to find such a great video that is actually done well and end up being code compliant. I'll be sharing with my DIY clients.
Thank you! Appreciate the comment.
Well done buddy. Nice to see a pro in action and safety, being the first priority once again, well done😊
Nice work!!! This reassured my job was done correctly!
Thanks
Where did you get that heat shield that goes through the roof? The round metal one that is not DuraVent?
It came with the Selkirk Duravent rubber boot flashing kit. I just bought one. In the box is the rubber boot, a coil of sheet steel and the four strips with which you make that heat shield, the three little brackets that secure the assembly to the plywood, a coil of aluminum to make the cone-shaped counterflashing and a bag of roofing screws. The install is a bit of a pain and, in my opinion, more complicated than it needed to be. But the Code requires it.
Really nice job and good clear instructions. I’ve seen a lot of people go through metal roofs with all sorts of different methods but now that the rubber type material they have for the boot life is easier. Only thing I would have done different would install a stainless steel clamp over that boot.
Hello Paul and Emily, you guys have done wonderful, thanks for the explanation. To many QC and safety critics here. Never mind them . Good video. Stay safe and healthy. Thanks 😊
Thanks for watching!
Wow this is so interesting to me! As I do this as a profession in New Zealand our rules and regulations are way different, 1. You can’t have a circular hole in the ceiling it has to be square to allow for breathing airflow, 2 the roof has to be back flashed ( a piece of metal that goes over the penetration ) and the aqua seal that goes around the chimney/liner on the outside of the roof MUST be put down diamond shape to allow water to run away not build up at the top, we also have a trip skin system you’ll have your outter liner inner baffle and inner flue, also inner flue MUST be sealed with fire cement to stop leaking carbon oxide.
Thanks for sharing always interesting hearing how things are done differently
You can’t beat all the rules and regulations and of course paying the relevant council fees here in New Zealand..
Marlborough District Council has a competition with the rest of the country about how many new fees that they can put on the homeowners, sometimes even requiring us to pay for what has or(probably not) occurred on the land, going back to 1920(is their latest con)
Stick another 36 inches of flue on top of that chimney to get the end of the pipe above the swirl and backdraft inducing zone caused by the tumbling of the air caused by wind hitting the ridgeline.
Brace with 3x wire/metal band stays to counter high wind situations...
You had one shot to cut through that beautiful ceiling and the roof . and you did great.. :)
Thanks! Getting over the fact that there's a hole in my roof haha
The chimney looks awesome 👌 👏 😎 really kool ! 😊👍💕💕💕
Thanks so much 😊
Well Done ! I hope that mine turns out that well. Thank You for helping me not to mess mine up.
Good luck!
You make this look so easy... I hope my installation goes this well.
Thanks for watching!
Your attention to detail is amazing Paul, keep up the excellent work! Hope to see you guys next month at the covered bridges festival?
Thank you! We will be around!
Nice work Paul!
Thank you!
I’ve been watching this channel for a while. You are impressive. Nice job every time. Thanks for the great content.
Thank you very much!
Great job! Thanks for sharing your journey with us
Thanks for watching!
Best tutorial that I have seen. Good job, thanks.
good job ,will be going at mine shortly 2 stoves, Always check for wiring,water pipes, camera cables etc before you drill and cut into a ceiling,roof, Denis, in ireland.
Thanks for the comment! Good luck!
Excellent. Thanks for the demo.
Glad you liked it!
Thank you for sharing your expertise.
Appreciate you watching/commenting!
Nice video. Good advice to check the boot every year. I had turkey buzzards rip up my boot and caused a leak.
Great job. Thank you for taking the time to make the video and share your expertise. Beautiful home by the way...
Thanks for watching!
Excellent video. Thanks.
Thanks For Sharing a Great Job!
Had that exact stove at my cabin. Pretty amazing kit, done right it was a slow burner for hours and hours.
Awesome thanks for the personal vouch!
What stove is that?
A lot of good detail given here. I have a high vaulted ceiling. I used single wall pipe up to the ceiling box. This gives me a lot of good heat from the chimney and is much cheaper than double and triple wall insulated pipe. I added a magnetically held shield behind the chimney on the first four feet, that keeps my wall behind the stove cool. A near by ceiling fan set to pull up, forces trapped heat from the ceiling. This makes a quite installation compared to most stove fans.
thank you for your very detailed video!
Great job and explanation
Thank you!
Great walk through
Excellent instructional video. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the video!
THAT was an excellent video. EXCELLENT!
Thank you very much!
Excellent. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Love your show, many many great ideas.
Suggestion: Wouldn't it have been better if you would have "diamond-ed" your rubber seal? (Point the corner of the rubber seal towards the top of the roof line). That way you would have less standing water on top of the seal, the diamond installation would allow a minimum of standing water. Just a thought. I saw Kyle do this this on R&R
Buildings.
can be hard with corrugations and the gasket material behavior
@@ketertrue No, these rubber seal kits are easy to install, correctly or not. They easily go up and over the ridges of the metal roofing. Setting up on a diamond pattern is the only accepted method around here; our inspectors will reject the method seen here. Otherwise, great video!
So jealous, so little holes poked through your roof! My way smaller roof must have at least 10 pipes sticking out
Spent a lot of time figuring out how to minimize it!
Very nice .I would like to know if the rubber holds up to any creosote that drips on to it . I have a chimney on a tin roof and the creosote dripping on the tin eats holes in it .
Lookin good!
Thank you!
Wow, you always make it look easy. Cutting an upside down circle would suck
Thanks for watching!
I have plywood then purlins then metal on my roof. Is this the same process for install thru the roof? Thanks
Looks great. How or where could I source the heat shield?
Excellent work and info thank ya
Thanks for watching!
Well done, I just wish they would stamp a storm collar like they do for b-vent
Great job
Thanks!
Why are you using double wall in the heated space rather than single wall?
Great job, great video! Thanks for doing this. One question, do you have the two foot chimney clearance above your ridge line that I've seen recommended?
some Good advice There Thanks
Great detail! Very helpful info.
Thank you!
I don’t see any bath fan vents on your house. How did you vent your fans ? I was hoping your chimney video would demonstrate something similar .
Is the chimney pipe in the attic and out roof insulated pipe or just same from stove up all way
Great video. If you have a metal roof and a modern EPA reburn wood stove, then do you need a spark arrestor?
where did you get the heat shield that went over the doube wall pipe in between wood
I installed a 2nd rubber boot with a clamp, over that metal rain shield, as a secondary form of protection.
Hope you have ceiling fan and a good blower b/c if you're in an area where the temp drops below freezing, you're going to have a hard time heating that massive place.
Yes, there will be a ceiling fan and we have a blower. We also have a furnace for each floor of the house and radiant heat in the main floor concrete.
Please, where did u get the heat shield from???
Same question I have! I have been searching for the heatshield and have only found it in a kit that Selkirk sells called Selkirk 200275 Galvanized Steel Rubber Boot Chimney Flashing Kit. I have found it at a few retailers and eBay. There is also a Selkirk SuperPro All-Fuel Chimney Pipe Rafter Shield - but it doesn't look to have the stand-off pieces of the one Paul used. Good luck.
Best on UA-cam, I have a question the sleeve and spacer at the roof line where to purchase?
Very good video
Thanks
good stuff
Thanks for watching!
Is it installed by the code ? It looks like the chimney is shorter than 2 feet above the ridge
Could you Please send the Part # of your ceiling support box. I cannot find one online. The one I ordered will not connect to the Class A attic pipe.
Why not single wall so it gives off more heat in that big room?
Smokin!!!
Haha
Where did you get the heat shield, I can’t find it any where, what is the part name/number
Wondering what brand the heatsheild is that goes through the roof? Having a tough time finding one for mine
Make one. Any type of flat coil metal.
Just put 3 screws and done 💁🏼
People make things much harder than they are.. common sense - don't need to 'buy' everything.
Excellent tutorial. Thanks for going into such detail. Tried to look up your website but it is down ? Same problem with the other links. Don't know if you are aware of this.
Thanks for letting me know. We changed our business name to MR Post Frame since I’m now building for other people.
New site is mrpostframe.com
Sorry for inconvenience, we’ll get those corrected.
Not sure if you have covered this topic and issue as of yet. Air recovery or make up air as I hear it called. With a wood stove, it needs air to combust obviously. In a new tight and air sealed house, are you installing an ERV or HRV into your HVAC? Same issue comes into play with your kitchen exhaust fan.
Could you tell us what you would do had the hole in the ceiling hit a roof joist? Move it over, bend it, how do you handle that situation?
Did your ceiling box support come with the trim collar or did you have to buy that separate?
Your ceiling box should come with the trim piece. I bought everything from discountchimneysupply.com. If you call them and have your ceiling heights and information they will help you get all the necessary parts.
Do you recall the part number on that heat shield?
Where did you get a rubber boot that size?
Thank you
interesting! Is that a special spray foam?
I have a question for you just curious why you didn’t use Single wall pipe from fireplace to the ceiling to radiate more heat in your house versus going with double wall pipe just wondering your thoughts on that thank you everything looks great God bless
The new epa stove are so efficient but they like a really good draw. Double wall excels at that.
The stove pipe is where you get the majority of the heat. Single wall inside. Double wall through the wall or eoof and outside.
Had to go with double wall because of the height of inside ceiling. I still get a ton of heat out of it. Works great.
How are bugs kept out of the 1 inch air gap piece? Cant they just get straight into the attic space without a mesh?
@applepom321 good luck getting under a line of butyl tape, silicone, and 100 screws holing that boot down....lol
I noticed that you dont have a vapor barrier under your steel roof, I would be worried about condensation dripping on your insulation constantly
I was thinking the same thing. My back porch is exposed R panel and drips like crazy at the dew point - south Texas.
Really helpful video, thanks! Where do you source the adjustable heat shield? I've got an odd size pipe (9 in), so an adjustable shield would be awesome.
why would you put double wall pipe directly from the stove? that should start at the ceiling so nothing catches fire past that. if you start it at the stove than you're just loosing that that extra heat.
Depending on how efficient the stove is at radiating the heat...
and that standing column of exhaust air had better have some heat in it to "lift" it out of the chimney top to the outside....
because the backflow if it cools too much is going to settle back down into the firebox and back out into the house....
What brand is that Class A chimney pipe?
Duravent here’s the website we ordered from www.discountchimneysupply.com/chimney_pipe.html
The concern is not the ice tearing boots, it's the pipe getting sheared off or bent over, which I've seen
We are installing a wood stove chimney through our standing seam metal roof. Duravent does not seem to prescribe a silicone boot/jack for installations. I see that your silicon boot does not actually touch the double wall chimney pipe - it contacts the heat shield. So that leaves the two inch airspace between combustibles? And thank you for an informative video!
There is a high temp silicone boot for chimney installs
is that an Oatley silicone flashing?
Where is it that a pole barn style roof meets building code for a home? Those trusses must be 4 or 6 feet apart. Can you even walk on that roof without denting it?
These types of homes are built all over the nation with trusses that are 8’ oc. The metal is strong and will not dent when walking on it.
How are the owners supposed to clean the chimney? you didnt leave any revision openings?
Get on the roof and brush out the pipe as per usual.
You don't need to do that often if you burn the correct wood at the right moisture level
and fire the stove at the right flame properties.......
This installation is backwards. You should install your ceiling box and double wall SS pipe during construction with an insulation shield. This all with an idea of where the stove will be located. Then, after everything else is done, you install your black pipe and stove. You do this because the chimney placement depends completely on the truss location, so that determines location. Also, silicone itself is more than enough to keep the storm collar in place, you don't need additional fasteners. In any case, you don't place the stove first and then work off that, the structure determines location.
How well does that small stove heat all that high ceiling and Sq. Footage?
It’s done great. Basically heats the entire house.
What kit did you use through the roof?
Curious to know why there isnt a drip stop or moisture barrier on roof metal? Does it not condensate in your attic? Great video!!
We don't have anything extreme as far as condensation goes. Attic is well insulated and air sealed, plastic on the ceiling, etc. We recommend at least drip stop but you don't have to have it.
@@MrPostFrame what chimey kit through the roof did you use? Thank you!