A well presented guide. 👌 I particularly like your tips of just puncturing the sealing foil on the bottle of brake fluid in two places and also ‘retaining’ the bleed tube by feeding it through the brake disc or spokes. Keep up the good work.
Good stuff, Honda should simply link your channel under their maintenance and accessories tabs. Naturally after they get your permission and pay you. :)
8:54 I think you missed an important point here: if the diaphragm has been deformed/extended from brake-pads wearing out, it is important to reset the diaphragm to its original collapsed state. Also touching on why the diaphragm extends and how it relates to the level of braking-fluid in the reservoir and the state of brake-pads would be important.
Haha 😂 which time stamp do you mean? 9:45 is almost at the end. But you’re right, I try to keep my edits as short as possible.. my videos are already much longer than most other tutorials as I show every single bolt and but… I generally speed up the editing when I’m removing screws… in any I don’t remember struggling with any screws for this job.. it’s was pretty straight forward. Cheers mate! Ride safe
Two weeks ago I changed the front brake tube of my crf 300l to a "Stahlflex" tube (and got rid of the darned abs 🙂by just cutting in pieces the old tube) The way you fill a completely empty system is quite different. Maybe you want to make a video about that?
@@RoiaMoto on a new motorcycle not so much, but old one with rubber hoses, that have gone a bit soft over time, give indeed a weak feel at the lever. Changing mine to braided hoses made a huge difference
Link for the tool roll used in the video:
roiamoto.com/products/tool-roll
A well presented guide. 👌
I particularly like your tips of just puncturing the sealing foil on the bottle of brake fluid in two places and also ‘retaining’ the bleed tube by feeding it through the brake disc or spokes. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the supportive comment!
Good stuff, Honda should simply link your channel under their maintenance and accessories tabs. Naturally after they get your permission and pay you. :)
Haha I wish it was like that. Thanks as always, mate!
8:54 I think you missed an important point here: if the diaphragm has been deformed/extended from brake-pads wearing out, it is important to reset the diaphragm to its original collapsed state. Also touching on why the diaphragm extends and how it relates to the level of braking-fluid in the reservoir and the state of brake-pads would be important.
Your vids are such a help . Make it easy mate so I don't have to kick my bike .Ha ha.!
Hey Alex! As always thanks for the supportive comment!!
Love your videos. Thank you.
Glad you like them!
What about ABS version?
that is the ABS version
It is not ABS version. No sensor pilates on wheels oil pipes goes directly to wheels. Without ABS Cube.
@9:45 a lot more force is needed to undo that screw. Here is shown as "one I prepared earlier" 😉
Haha 😂 which time stamp do you mean? 9:45 is almost at the end.
But you’re right, I try to keep my edits as short as possible.. my videos are already much longer than most other tutorials as I show every single bolt and but… I generally speed up the editing when I’m removing screws… in any I don’t remember struggling with any screws for this job.. it’s was pretty straight forward.
Cheers mate! Ride safe
Is ABS version different?
in the video is the ABS version
@gnarlydog ok, thanks . I have the rally version with ABS on front. I wasn't sure if the non rally had ABS .
Two weeks ago I changed the front brake tube of my crf 300l to a "Stahlflex" tube (and got rid of the darned abs 🙂by just cutting in pieces the old tube) The way you fill a completely empty system is quite different. Maybe you want to make a video about that?
Do you feel a lot of difference now using braided lines without the ABS?
@@RoiaMoto on a new motorcycle not so much, but old one with rubber hoses, that have gone a bit soft over time, give indeed a weak feel at the lever. Changing mine to braided hoses made a huge difference