THANK YOU! Just got my R6 Mii yesterday and been struggling to setup dual back button to something that made sense to me. Watched other videos and buttons still weren't what i wanted. But this is perfect. Subscribed!
I've had my R7 for 12 months and my R6 M2 for 6 months. This is by far the best video I have seen about back button focus. Think I'm all ready to head back to Kruger National park next month. Thank you......
Thank you so much! I really appreciate that. I also run a website www.PhotonphotographyNJ.com you might find helpful stuff on their and I have a Facebook group. Feel free to reach out to me anytime I’ll remember you and help anyway that I can. Thank you again for the super thanks I do really appreciate you and have a great day!
Thank you so much for producing this video. I've been struggling to get the focus modes dialed in since upgrading to the R6 MII from the R6 and this video was the best I've found that really explains it all. I'm dialed in now!
Hey man thank you so much I really appreciate that! I’m really happy you found it helpful. I also have my website www.photonphotographynj.com and the Facebook group you can join and you’re always welcome to reach out if you ever have anymore questions about the camera. Good luck and enjoy the R6 mark ii. Thanks again!
I'm not understanding why this is needed. The system already just detects what you have set it to detect, humans, animals, etc and it does it pretty much flawlessly, (at least 90 -95% of the time, in my (limited lol) experience). What does this do extra? For a family session, I just zoom in on the family member I want to "star" in that photo, and it finds the eye pretty much instantaneously. Is this for like if I were switching back and forth among family members, or what does this accomplish? Sorry if this is a dumb question (very likely that it is lol).
Hello... I have been using this setup for quite a number of months and it proves to be exceptional. The only thing which I do different is that to assign the eye AF to the AF-On button and the spot detection to the star button. I also assign the back focus button selector to register 'shooting function' which I set to whole area animal tracking, custom shutter speed and aperture, and auto ISO. Thanks for your great videos!
Hello! Very happy to hear you found the settings helpful and have tweaked them to fit your style better. Thank you for watching the channel I really appreciate it!
I'm anxious to give this a try. You have not steered me wrong yet my friend. In fact thanks to your 1st set up I've been getting some amazing wildlife photos. Looks like a great idea. Thanks for all you do. I will keep you posted
I do have a question… when you choose the back button in the customized button for AF-ON, what setting do you use in the detail info in the metering and AF Start when you setup? Could you please help?
This is amazing! But, maybe I missed something. The button to the right of *, when I hit that to lock it in, it’s not always in focus. Do I need to hit af-on first to get focus and then hit that button to lock the tracking in?
@@damolsch1 with back button you need to hold down the back button to maintain tracking. Make sure to be in servo focus as well for moving subjects. Let me know if this helps or if you need any further assistance. Thank you for watching the channel I appreciate it.
I have used bbf through af on but the other button to the right of the *, you showed in your demonstration that you can hit that button to turn on the whole area af and you can let go of the button and it would track. But it doesn’t bring the image into focus. I think I’m missing something. I love this new set up, but feel like I’m missing something. Before I would use af on and just turn on the whole area af but the af on would get me into focus.
I was frustrated on setting AF for marathon runner. I wanna focus on one runner, focus tracking the runner that go toward me and then switch to next runner. Also I wanna select certain runner from other runner in the same focus distance. Also keep the exposure lock during tracking. Any help is very appreciated. Thank you.
This is a great video, i have my r6m2 for a week and this vid just saved my life. I have only one question, do i have to take the picture maintaining either one of the buttons assigned pressed? I presume for a moving person or object i have to do this so that the camera will track the subject,this also applies for portraits?
yes you are understanding it correctly. You need to hold down either the AF-on or * button depending on what you want tracking or single point to maintain focus. Also applies for portraits yes. I'm glad you found the video helpful and thank you for watching I appreciate it!
@@PPNJ again, thank you! this is very well explained, this comes from a guy that for the past 15 years used only nikon cameras. I found this autofocus sistem better than nikon or sony in this price range!
This may be the simplest question ever but I am perplexed. I adjusted my settings exactly like you have done in the video. I also have a r6 mark ii. My display screen does not show the double white lined frame at 7:09 that’s around Nikki’s face. I have a large single lined blue box that seems to have a mind of its own if I hold the back button for too long.
There’s a setting in the menu that turns on right eye, left eye, auto. I bet that setting affects what you’re asking about. I’m going to work here shortly but when I get back I’ll do some investigating and report back to you asap and help get it sorted for you.
Yes you can press down on the joystick to recenter the focus point. I guess I customize a button for it because my older cameras didn’t have a joystick so this is what I did then and it’s just a habit at this point. The stick will still work as well though.
Hi at 7:00 minutes, you can see that box with the arrows flash over the face which allows you to toggle subjects... when I first set the camera up with your settings, it allowed me to use the joystick to toggle between subjects. I made changes, and now tried to use these settings again and I'm getting it flashing sporadically like the 7:00 marker. Do you have any thoughts?
I just came across your channel and I did subscribe. Great video BUT 1 THING NOBODY DOES is cater to newbies. I just bought my 1st camera other then a phone. The canon r6 mark ii and if you would have made 1 difference in this video it would have tought me so much easier... as your talking about pressing buttons to activate certain auto focus features I wish you were SHOWING ME WHAT BUTTON YOUR PRESSING because when your just saying.... mode select button does.... after button does.... now if I press.... it does.... yea I'm so new you lost me.. BUT AS I LEARN THIS NEW CAMERA I WILL VALUE THIS VIDEO ONE DAY..... ILL CONTINUE TO FOLLOW THANKS
Thanks for your great tutorial AF video Just need one thing regarding the AF how to stop eye tracking completely just as not excising in the camera ! Just to focus to the whole scene in the Foreground and background only ! Best wishes 🌸🙏🏼
Thanks for the update. This seems to really let you leverage more of the auto focus features. Now, I just need to update my muscle memory for these settings 😅
hi! thanks so much for the video. If I shoot primarily weddings and portraits and my main subjects are generally people, would it be better to just keep my subject detect on people instead of on none and having to make this selection while shooting?
So it’s really going to be preferential here but I would say none has advantages in the sense then your single point auto focus is true single point when you want it. If you have the subject set to people the single point will be overridden by the tracking but that can sometimes work well to. Either way you can switch the subject with just a press of the button so it’s easy to try both and see what works for you.
Great video! One thing you forgot to mention is how to do multi-subject tracking. I was taking pictures of my mom, with my dog right in front of her, using the RF 50mm 1.2 L lens, and the camera was only focusing on her (I now know that it was because I had subject detection on). BUT, how would I track to subjects at the same time, where one subject is slightly closer to the camera than the other? Please help!
Thank you glad you liked it! There is no way to focus on multiple subjects at the same time. It would be physically impossible for it to track and follow two moving subjects moving on different planes of field from the lens. Now that doesn't mean you can't get both subjects tack sharp you can, but you need to stop down your aperture (f/4 or 8 larger the number deeper the depth of field) to create a "deeper" depth of field to allow your sharp focus plane to become deeper allowing your lens to capture both subjects that are on different planes (different distances from the lens) I hope that makes sense and I am understanding your question correctly.
@@PPNJ yes that absolutely makes sense! I had to spell check above, because I meant to say my dog was “in front” of her. Thank you for that! Great video! I have liked and subscribed! 😁👍🏼
You mention saving this to a C mode, and also setting the main mode back to default. What is the best/easiest way to set, say, Fl or P mode back to factory default, without setting all all other modes back to default?
I could never get use to back button AF. It always caused trouble. At the 7dII and 5dIII I put AF-Stop to this button. I think the R6II object and eye tracking doesn't need a back button AF anymore. At the R6II my custom setting is RAW-Burst on this buttom.
Fair enough it’s jot for everyone. I really enjoy it and like that I can stop the focus and then redirect it again by letting off the buttons. I fully understand we all do this differently though and that’s okay too. Appreciate that you watched the video and added your thoughts here on the channel. Thank you 🙏 and look forward to hearing from you again!
I’m not 100% as I’ve never done it but I’m pretty sure you can and it’s fine to do so. The only draw back is you won’t have access to the highest burst rates. I think the nh batteries they come with supply higher voltage that allows for the higher burst rate. Again don’t quote me on this. lol. Sorry I don’t have more definitive answers for you.
@@PPNJ I see. The thing is I don’t remember if I used this battery in my Mark2 and it slept on me pretty bad. I had to turn off the switch and take the battery out, and again I can’t remember if it was the LP-E6N. Only reason Im thinking about this is because I noticed I always carry it with me along with all my LP-E6NH, and that battery belonged to my EOS R.
Yes it will track the eye if you have followed the settings and have eye detection set to “auto” it will detect when an eye is present and grab on. If no eye is detected then it will revert to just the subject itself. Hope that helps and thank you for watching the channel I appreciate it.
I have setup BBF as per your settings, however I do not have the option of AUTO in my subject selection. Do you know what determines why that is greyed out, ia there an overriding setting I cant locate? when setting this up I have a EF Macro 100 lens attached. Also after registering these settings to C1 does that mean BBF wont work on M only on C1? @@PPNJ
@@leannemcardle1330 okay so, the auto subject not be available I’m not sure why it’s greyed out on you. I would suggest resetting to default and start over setting this up. You must have done something in the settings that causes this but I’m not sure what. Once you get that settled and have BBF set up again you can save this to your C1 setting then reset back to default. This will keep this bbf on your c1 but make manual like default settings so you can switch back and forth very easily. Hope that helps and thank you for watching the channel and reaching out I really appreciate it.
Really what makes you say that. I use this setup for portrait work. Just switch the subject to people and it works well. What issues have you run into? Do you just not prefer back button and to use the front button for shutter control?
@@captureyourmoments3714 you mean like you want control over if you use electronic shutter or mechanical? I have a custom menus setup that helps you to switch through that easily.
No H+ is your fastest frame per second (or fastest burst rate) Raw burst mode is a feature that allows you use the pre capture feature built into these cameras. Raw burst mode will also force you to use electronic shutter mode.
Hello, I use auto iso when I’m capturing wildlife as well. Their shouldn’t be any reason this setup will turn off auto iso in any way. Let’s try a couple things and see if we can fix it. Now usually I start by having people completely reset their camera before walking through the custom button set up video. This way no other settings that may have been changed before hand will interfere with this setup. Also make sure your camera is running the latest firmware version to make sure any weird bugs canon has fixed is patched away with the latest firmware. Your issue reminds me of my original canon R6 that had an issue with turning auto iso on sometimes but canon eventually fixed that issue. Give these steps a try and get back to me we will get you sorted! Thank you and look forward to hearing back from you.
I think it would be helpful to remake this video in reverse order. To understand what you are trying to do, you need to specify the definition of your primary Use Cases. In other words, what are the kinds of subjects that you usually encounter and what which AF features do you need to tackle them? Once your viewers understand the problems you are trying to solve, then you can explain your strategy for re-assigning the buttons. Otherwise you are effectively presenting a cake recipe before telling your users what kind of cake you are trying to bake. Please note that I am not trying to criticise the result, which I have not tested, and that most of the other videos I have watched do the same thing. People with years of experience tell their audience how to re-program lots of buttons before explaining what they are trying to achieve. Moreover, to see if it works for a particular viewer, he/she will need to try out the set up for a week or so. Personally I don't like the requirement to use a separate button to focus before taking the picture, because I am likely to forget to push it, or to push the wrong back button. Thus, I have come up with my three primary use cases and have spent several days working out how to switch the camera as easily as possible into each mode. (I have found that the "Record/Recall" feature would be prefect for this if only it allowed multiple parameter sets). It seems to me that the latest digital cameras will do anything except fly, but given that the R6ii has an instruction manual of 1074 pages, a better way of reducing the plethora of options to a small specific set appropriate for a particular user is needed. For example, by replacing the C1-3 modes by three buttons.
FYI - On the R6mkII when changing the function of the AF-ON button if you press the info button at the bottom you will find another menu of functions you can link to the pressing of that button.
Just curious, but I notice you haven't used one-shot at all. For stationary subjects I've found servo mode can mess up the focusing, so I found it can be more accurate in these situations. Plus if the subject is in a busy area that subject tracking can't locate, one-shot spot is useful for acquiring the focus. Also, like another viewer who commented below, I also noticed you didn't mention the Detail Set within Metering and AF Start. This is really good at giving you more precise control, but I've only see one other youtuber mention it. It's like a hidden secret!
Yeah that’s how I always had mine set up and how I originally set up the R6 ii but after using it for a couple weeks I kept tweaking things and this is where I’ve landed and I’m really liking it better. I did post my original dual back button setup video though that sets up that more traditional customization with single point and eye tracking if you would rather have it that way. Thank you for watching the video I appreciate it. If you have any other questions don’t hesitate to ask.
Yes you can. I guess I just prefer to use the set button from habit of the days before I used cameras with joysticks. You definitely can do it with the center press on the joystick as well. Thank you for watching and appreciate hearing from you.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
THANK YOU! Just got my R6 Mii yesterday and been struggling to setup dual back button to something that made sense to me. Watched other videos and buttons still weren't what i wanted. But this is perfect. Subscribed!
You’re very welcome. I’m glad this helped you! Thanks for the support I really appreciate it.
I've had my R7 for 12 months and my R6 M2 for 6 months. This is by far the best video I have seen about back button focus. Think I'm all ready to head back to Kruger National park next month. Thank you......
You’re very welcome. Thank You for watching and commenting on here. I’m glad you found this helpful.
Thanks for the Transcript. Was able to take notes from that then rewatch the video.😊
Thanks tried it today and enjoyed having all the different AF options !
Many thanks for an *excellent* tutorial! Love that it had 2 parts to it: 1) settings and, 2) demo.
Thank you so much! I really appreciate that. I also run a website www.PhotonphotographyNJ.com you might find helpful stuff on their and I have a Facebook group. Feel free to reach out to me anytime I’ll remember you and help anyway that I can. Thank you again for the super thanks I do really appreciate you and have a great day!
Thank you so much for producing this video. I've been struggling to get the focus modes dialed in since upgrading to the R6 MII from the R6 and this video was the best I've found that really explains it all. I'm dialed in now!
Hey man thank you so much I really appreciate that! I’m really happy you found it helpful. I also have my website www.photonphotographynj.com and the Facebook group you can join and you’re always welcome to reach out if you ever have anymore questions about the camera. Good luck and enjoy the R6 mark ii. Thanks again!
I'm not understanding why this is needed. The system already just detects what you have set it to detect, humans, animals, etc and it does it pretty much flawlessly, (at least 90 -95% of the time, in my (limited lol) experience). What does this do extra? For a family session, I just zoom in on the family member I want to "star" in that photo, and it finds the eye pretty much instantaneously. Is this for like if I were switching back and forth among family members, or what does this accomplish? Sorry if this is a dumb question (very likely that it is lol).
Hello... I have been using this setup for quite a number of months and it proves to be exceptional. The only thing which I do different is that to assign the eye AF to the AF-On button and the spot detection to the star button. I also assign the back focus button selector to register 'shooting function' which I set to whole area animal tracking, custom shutter speed and aperture, and auto ISO.
Thanks for your great videos!
Hello! Very happy to hear you found the settings helpful and have tweaked them to fit your style better. Thank you for watching the channel I really appreciate it!
Thank you for your super nice AF set up suggestion🩷
You’re very welcome thank you for watching the channel!
I'm anxious to give this a try. You have not steered me wrong yet my friend. In fact thanks to your 1st set up I've been getting some amazing wildlife photos. Looks like a great idea. Thanks for all you do. I will keep you posted
Look forward to hearing from you!
I do have a question… when you choose the back button in the customized button for AF-ON, what setting do you use in the detail info in the metering and AF Start when you setup?
Could you please help?
This is amazing! But, maybe I missed something. The button to the right of *, when I hit that to lock it in, it’s not always in focus. Do I need to hit af-on first to get focus and then hit that button to lock the tracking in?
@@damolsch1 with back button you need to hold down the back button to maintain tracking. Make sure to be in servo focus as well for moving subjects. Let me know if this helps or if you need any further assistance. Thank you for watching the channel I appreciate it.
I have used bbf through af on but the other button to the right of the *, you showed in your demonstration that you can hit that button to turn on the whole area af and you can let go of the button and it would track. But it doesn’t bring the image into focus. I think I’m missing something. I love this new set up, but feel like I’m missing something. Before I would use af on and just turn on the whole area af but the af on would get me into focus.
This is very helpful. Thank you very much
You’re very welcome. Hope it helps you and good luck!
I was frustrated on setting AF for marathon runner.
I wanna focus on one runner, focus tracking the runner that go toward me and then switch to next runner. Also I wanna select certain runner from other runner in the same focus distance. Also keep the exposure lock during tracking.
Any help is very appreciated. Thank you.
This is a great video, i have my r6m2 for a week and this vid just saved my life. I have only one question, do i have to take the picture maintaining either one of the buttons assigned pressed? I presume for a moving person or object i have to do this so that the camera will track the subject,this also applies for portraits?
yes you are understanding it correctly. You need to hold down either the AF-on or * button depending on what you want tracking or single point to maintain focus. Also applies for portraits yes. I'm glad you found the video helpful and thank you for watching I appreciate it!
@@PPNJ again, thank you! this is very well explained, this comes from a guy that for the past 15 years used only nikon cameras. I found this autofocus sistem better than nikon or sony in this price range!
This may be the simplest question ever but I am perplexed. I adjusted my settings exactly like you have done in the video. I also have a r6 mark ii. My display screen does not show the double white lined frame at 7:09 that’s around Nikki’s face. I have a large single lined blue box that seems to have a mind of its own if I hold the back button for too long.
There’s a setting in the menu that turns on right eye, left eye, auto. I bet that setting affects what you’re asking about. I’m going to work here shortly but when I get back I’ll do some investigating and report back to you asap and help get it sorted for you.
Thanks for the help ! Your video was already so helpful
OK, we need the R5 II settings now. 🙃🙃🙃
I hear you. I wish I could get my hands on one.
Does the joystick have a press down button also? I’d have thought you’d use that to centre the focus point if it does
Yes you can press down on the joystick to recenter the focus point. I guess I customize a button for it because my older cameras didn’t have a joystick so this is what I did then and it’s just a habit at this point. The stick will still work as well though.
Super detailed! Appreciate this!
Glad it was helpful!
Hi at 7:00 minutes, you can see that box with the arrows flash over the face which allows you to toggle subjects... when I first set the camera up with your settings, it allowed me to use the joystick to toggle between subjects. I made changes, and now tried to use these settings again and I'm getting it flashing sporadically like the 7:00 marker. Do you have any thoughts?
Thanks. The demo was super useful.
You’re very welcome. Glad you found it helpful. Thank you for watching the channel I really appreciate it.
I just came across your channel and I did subscribe. Great video BUT 1 THING NOBODY DOES is cater to newbies. I just bought my 1st camera other then a phone. The canon r6 mark ii and if you would have made 1 difference in this video it would have tought me so much easier... as your talking about pressing buttons to activate certain auto focus features I wish you were SHOWING ME WHAT BUTTON YOUR PRESSING because when your just saying.... mode select button does.... after button does.... now if I press.... it does.... yea I'm so new you lost me.. BUT AS I LEARN THIS NEW CAMERA I WILL VALUE THIS VIDEO ONE DAY..... ILL CONTINUE TO FOLLOW THANKS
Thanks for your great tutorial AF video
Just need one thing regarding the AF
how to stop eye tracking completely just as not excising in the camera !
Just to focus to the whole scene in the
Foreground and background only !
Best wishes 🌸🙏🏼
Great video and some fantastic suggestions.
Thank you really appreciate that!
Thanks for the update. This seems to really let you leverage more of the auto focus features. Now, I just need to update my muscle memory for these settings 😅
hi! thanks so much for the video. If I shoot primarily weddings and portraits and my main subjects are generally people, would it be better to just keep my subject detect on people instead of on none and having to make this selection while shooting?
also, is there a reason you set the * to AF-on detected subject, rather than eye detection AF?
So it’s really going to be preferential here but I would say none has advantages in the sense then your single point auto focus is true single point when you want it. If you have the subject set to people the single point will be overridden by the tracking but that can sometimes work well to. Either way you can switch the subject with just a press of the button so it’s easy to try both and see what works for you.
This is a great system. Thanks for working this out.
Really happy to hear you find it helpful. Thank you for watching and commenting on here. I really appreciate it.
Great video! One thing you forgot to mention is how to do multi-subject tracking. I was taking pictures of my mom, with my dog right in front of her, using the RF 50mm 1.2 L lens, and the camera was only focusing on her (I now know that it was because I had subject detection on). BUT, how would I track to subjects at the same time, where one subject is slightly closer to the camera than the other?
Please help!
Thank you glad you liked it! There is no way to focus on multiple subjects at the same time. It would be physically impossible for it to track and follow two moving subjects moving on different planes of field from the lens. Now that doesn't mean you can't get both subjects tack sharp you can, but you need to stop down your aperture (f/4 or 8 larger the number deeper the depth of field) to create a "deeper" depth of field to allow your sharp focus plane to become deeper allowing your lens to capture both subjects that are on different planes (different distances from the lens) I hope that makes sense and I am understanding your question correctly.
@@PPNJ yes that absolutely makes sense! I had to spell check above, because I meant to say my dog was “in front” of her.
Thank you for that! Great video! I have liked and subscribed! 😁👍🏼
@@thewaxandgreaseremover6182 Thank you I really appreciate that! If you ever have any other questions don't hesitate to reach out!
You mention saving this to a C mode, and also setting the main mode back to default. What is the best/easiest way to set, say, Fl or P mode back to factory default, without setting all all other modes back to default?
I could never get use to back button AF. It always caused trouble. At the 7dII and 5dIII I put AF-Stop to this button. I think the R6II object and eye tracking doesn't need a back button AF anymore. At the R6II my custom setting is RAW-Burst on this buttom.
Fair enough it’s jot for everyone. I really enjoy it and like that I can stop the focus and then redirect it again by letting off the buttons. I fully understand we all do this differently though and that’s okay too. Appreciate that you watched the video and added your thoughts here on the channel. Thank you 🙏 and look forward to hearing from you again!
Any idea if you can use the LP-E6N battery in this camera? Or will it have issues?
I’m not 100% as I’ve never done it but I’m pretty sure you can and it’s fine to do so. The only draw back is you won’t have access to the highest burst rates. I think the nh batteries they come with supply higher voltage that allows for the higher burst rate. Again don’t quote me on this. lol. Sorry I don’t have more definitive answers for you.
@@PPNJ I see. The thing is I don’t remember if I used this battery in my Mark2 and it slept on me pretty bad. I had to turn off the switch and take the battery out, and again I can’t remember if it was the LP-E6N. Only reason Im thinking about this is because I noticed I always carry it with me along with all my LP-E6NH, and that battery belonged to my EOS R.
Hi. This may sound like a stupid question but when set to animal or people will these modes mean it will track the eye if it can?
Yes it will track the eye if you have followed the settings and have eye detection set to “auto” it will detect when an eye is present and grab on. If no eye is detected then it will revert to just the subject itself. Hope that helps and thank you for watching the channel I appreciate it.
I have setup BBF as per your settings, however I do not have the option of AUTO in my subject selection. Do you know what determines why that is greyed out, ia there an overriding setting I cant locate? when setting this up I have a EF Macro 100 lens attached. Also after registering these settings to C1 does that mean BBF wont work on M only on C1?
@@PPNJ
@@leannemcardle1330 okay so, the auto subject not be available I’m not sure why it’s greyed out on you. I would suggest resetting to default and start over setting this up. You must have done something in the settings that causes this but I’m not sure what. Once you get that settled and have BBF set up again you can save this to your C1 setting then reset back to default. This will keep this bbf on your c1 but make manual like default settings so you can switch back and forth very easily. Hope that helps and thank you for watching the channel and reaching out I really appreciate it.
How do you reset just manual mode settings back to default?
Good but it’s no good for wedding photography?
Really what makes you say that. I use this setup for portrait work. Just switch the subject to people and it works well. What issues have you run into? Do you just not prefer back button and to use the front button for shutter control?
I think I need shutter control
@@captureyourmoments3714 you mean like you want control over if you use electronic shutter or mechanical? I have a custom menus setup that helps you to switch through that easily.
@@captureyourmoments3714 How To Set Up Custom Menu's for the Canon R6 Mark ii
ua-cam.com/video/6IGBfY_xzKc/v-deo.html
Great thanks
Is Raw Burst Mode the same as having my camera on H+?
No H+ is your fastest frame per second (or fastest burst rate) Raw burst mode is a feature that allows you use the pre capture feature built into these cameras. Raw burst mode will also force you to use electronic shutter mode.
What do you mean when you say “tap”?
Thank you
You’re welcome and thank you for watching the channel I really appreciate it.
Hi Jesse, Noticed that when using these settings that sometimes my camera switches off of auto iso. What am I doing wrong?
Hello, I use auto iso when I’m capturing wildlife as well. Their shouldn’t be any reason this setup will turn off auto iso in any way. Let’s try a couple things and see if we can fix it. Now usually I start by having people completely reset their camera before walking through the custom button set up video. This way no other settings that may have been changed before hand will interfere with this setup. Also make sure your camera is running the latest firmware version to make sure any weird bugs canon has fixed is patched away with the latest firmware. Your issue reminds me of my original canon R6 that had an issue with turning auto iso on sometimes but canon eventually fixed that issue. Give these steps a try and get back to me we will get you sorted! Thank you and look forward to hearing back from you.
I think it would be helpful to remake this video in reverse order. To understand what you are trying to do, you need to specify the definition of your primary Use Cases. In other words, what are the kinds of subjects that you usually encounter and what which AF features do you need to tackle them? Once your viewers understand the problems you are trying to solve, then you can explain your strategy for re-assigning the buttons. Otherwise you are effectively presenting a cake recipe before telling your users what kind of cake you are trying to bake.
Please note that I am not trying to criticise the result, which I have not tested, and that most of the other videos I have watched do the same thing. People with years of experience tell their audience how to re-program lots of buttons before explaining what they are trying to achieve. Moreover, to see if it works for a particular viewer, he/she will need to try out the set up for a week or so.
Personally I don't like the requirement to use a separate button to focus before taking the picture, because I am likely to forget to push it, or to push the wrong back button. Thus, I have come up with my three primary use cases and have spent several days working out how to switch the camera as easily as possible into each mode. (I have found that the "Record/Recall" feature would be prefect for this if only it allowed multiple parameter sets).
It seems to me that the latest digital cameras will do anything except fly, but given that the R6ii has an instruction manual of 1074 pages, a better way of reducing the plethora of options to a small specific set appropriate for a particular user is needed. For example, by replacing the C1-3 modes by three buttons.
FYI - On the R6mkII when changing the function of the AF-ON button if you press the info button at the bottom you will find another menu of functions you can link to the pressing of that button.
Hi I only see autofocus option as MF not servo can you please help my cam mode is in manual
Just curious, but I notice you haven't used one-shot at all. For stationary subjects I've found servo mode can mess up the focusing, so I found it can be more accurate in these situations. Plus if the subject is in a busy area that subject tracking can't locate, one-shot spot is useful for acquiring the focus.
Also, like another viewer who commented below, I also noticed you didn't mention the Detail Set within Metering and AF Start. This is really good at giving you more precise control, but I've only see one other youtuber mention it. It's like a hidden secret!
Many wildlife photographers seem to have spot AF as main AF on the AF ON button and EYE AF on the ‘star’ button
What are your thoughts on that?
Yeah that’s how I always had mine set up and how I originally set up the R6 ii but after using it for a couple weeks I kept tweaking things and this is where I’ve landed and I’m really liking it better. I did post my original dual back button setup video though that sets up that more traditional customization with single point and eye tracking if you would rather have it that way. Thank you for watching the video I appreciate it. If you have any other questions don’t hesitate to ask.
How To Set Up Dual Back Button Auto Focus for the Canon EOS R6 Mark ii | Wildlife & Sports Setup
ua-cam.com/video/FQrKwSmqlc8/v-deo.html
Too confusing for me. Txs anyway.
It’s not for everyone I understand. Thank you for watching the channel and commenting I appreciate it.
Radhey Radhey
bro, there anyone tell u that u look like Andrew Tate ?
Lol you’re the second person on this channel to say that. I mentioned it to my girlfriend so she looked him up and she agrees! Haha.
Nope, you're using static objects to explain how to set up for a moving target
Oh my goodness. 🤣
Pressing the Joystick down sends the focus point to the center automatically.
Yes you can. I guess I just prefer to use the set button from habit of the days before I used cameras with joysticks. You definitely can do it with the center press on the joystick as well. Thank you for watching and appreciate hearing from you.
I was thinking the same. I guess it's just matter of preference.