A gd tip I found is to tighten up the cam caps that r under pressure from the cams compressing the buckets do this first on those lobes only the do the others equally and progressively
I'm definitely not a licensed mechanic but my background in engineering/physics would at least make me wonder/ask if that's an appropriate way to do the valve adjustment with the head off the engine. To me, it makes more sense to do it the way you did. Simply turn the cam lobes away from the shim and anywhere at that point in the phase of the camshaft would be good to measure clearances. So long as the caps were all torqued to spec, I think this is definitely a better method when doing top-end work on this type of engine. I'll be doing the same when I do my top end work on the FZR1000. I can't say I'm looking forward to the 20Valve head...
Hi Ken, Yes, since you have to mount and remove the camshafts a couple of times it saves some time. You don't have to worry about the camshaft chain and timing. Just one note. Be carefull when only turning one camshaft that you don't force it. There is a risk of valves of opposite sides (intake / exhaust) touching depending on the positions of the valves on the cam you don't turn. I hope I explained it well. I just did the clearances on the YZF 750 and waiting for some shims. Have fun with the 20 valves :)
I did the same with the head of a fzr 1000,on the table,torque the caps and measure...much more easy then on the engine...especially if you are waiting for parts from japan😅...you will have plenty of time to mount dismantle,order shims,reorder shims,lap some shims that are too big...but those must be marked so when you open the engine in the future you wont get confused when reading the numbers stamped on the shims....😂
I recommend putting a very small dab of assembly lube or grease on the keepers - it helps hold them in place a little better until you get the springs seated.
You are right. I did that in the past too. i don't know why this time not. Maybe I didn't wanted to mess with grease. But it could have helped, as you see I did struggle a bit with these keepers. Thanks for the comment and tip!
@@jh-tech5546 Great Video, did you make the attachment for vacuum to the intake? And how do you test the exhaust side? with a different attachment? Another trick I've learned for valve keepers is to place the keepers into the spring retainer and then put the retainer onto the spring, and as you compress the spring, the keepers fall into place. OH- one more question.. where did you buy your drill attachment?That is the best and most complete lapping I've seen.
@@jonburtness9313 Thanks for your comment. Yes, I did make two different attachements for intake and exhaust. The one that fits the exhaust port is round but too small for the intake ports. Even with the manifolds. Maybe I create some short video to demonstrate if I have some time the comming days. But it is made out of steel plate. The lapping tool is from BGS: EAN 4026947017389. And thanks for the tip about the keepers. Maybe I will try that next time.
What dimensions are the valve shims? I'm having a hard time finding the correct shims online, a lot of websites says "for FZ750" but they are different sizes across different shops. I'm a complete beginner at engine restoration, so your videos are super helpful - thanks in advance :)
Hi, I don't have any spare left so I cannot measure. I know they are not the standard 7.5 mm shims you find on later models Japanese bikes. The ones on the FZ 750 are smaller and are like a bucket. Check the pictures at cmsnl www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-fz750-1987-2mg-europe-272mg-300e1_model37402/padadjusting-165_1aa12168m0/ . If you just need smaller (thinner) ones you can look for a machine shop and have them ground down.
A gd tip I found is to tighten up the cam caps that r under pressure from the cams compressing the buckets do this first on those lobes only the do the others equally and progressively
That is a great tip. Thank you.
I'm definitely not a licensed mechanic but my background in engineering/physics would at least make me wonder/ask if that's an appropriate way to do the valve adjustment with the head off the engine. To me, it makes more sense to do it the way you did. Simply turn the cam lobes away from the shim and anywhere at that point in the phase of the camshaft would be good to measure clearances. So long as the caps were all torqued to spec, I think this is definitely a better method when doing top-end work on this type of engine. I'll be doing the same when I do my top end work on the FZR1000. I can't say I'm looking forward to the 20Valve head...
Hi Ken, Yes, since you have to mount and remove the camshafts a couple of times it saves some time. You don't have to worry about the camshaft chain and timing. Just one note. Be carefull when only turning one camshaft that you don't force it. There is a risk of valves of opposite sides (intake / exhaust) touching depending on the positions of the valves on the cam you don't turn. I hope I explained it well. I just did the clearances on the YZF 750 and waiting for some shims. Have fun with the 20 valves :)
I did the same with the head of a fzr 1000,on the table,torque the caps and measure...much more easy then on the engine...especially if you are waiting for parts from japan😅...you will have plenty of time to mount dismantle,order shims,reorder shims,lap some shims that are too big...but those must be marked so when you open the engine in the future you wont get confused when reading the numbers stamped on the shims....😂
I recommend putting a very small dab of assembly lube or grease on the keepers - it helps hold them in place a little better until you get the springs seated.
You are right. I did that in the past too. i don't know why this time not. Maybe I didn't wanted to mess with grease. But it could have helped, as you see I did struggle a bit with these keepers. Thanks for the comment and tip!
@@jh-tech5546 Great Video, did you make the attachment for vacuum to the intake? And how do you test the exhaust side? with a different attachment? Another trick I've learned for valve keepers is to place the keepers into the spring retainer and then put the retainer onto the spring, and as you compress the spring, the keepers fall into place. OH- one more question.. where did you buy your drill attachment?That is the best and most complete lapping I've seen.
@@jonburtness9313 Thanks for your comment. Yes, I did make two different attachements for intake and exhaust. The one that fits the exhaust port is round but too small for the intake ports. Even with the manifolds. Maybe I create some short video to demonstrate if I have some time the comming days. But it is made out of steel plate. The lapping tool is from BGS: EAN 4026947017389. And thanks for the tip about the keepers. Maybe I will try that next time.
What dimensions are the valve shims? I'm having a hard time finding the correct shims online, a lot of websites says "for FZ750" but they are different sizes across different shops. I'm a complete beginner at engine restoration, so your videos are super helpful - thanks in advance :)
Hi, I don't have any spare left so I cannot measure. I know they are not the standard 7.5 mm shims you find on later models Japanese bikes. The ones on the FZ 750 are smaller and are like a bucket. Check the pictures at cmsnl www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-fz750-1987-2mg-europe-272mg-300e1_model37402/padadjusting-165_1aa12168m0/ . If you just need smaller (thinner) ones you can look for a machine shop and have them ground down.
that's better than watching a porn film..😎
Thank for your comment. Glad you enjoyed it :)