So I was thinking of buying a Ups system like anker or bluetti etc. According to spec I should be able to charge this bikes battery via that ups. I wanted to buy 400w of solar to charge that battery then making it off the grid. I won't be riding every day
I have enabled regen on my TC Max. I’ve also created my own data cable using cheap FTDI module. Regarding the regen, there are few important settings to keep in mind. And also two moments when the regen is triggered. The first moment is when you close the throttle, the bike will start charging. It is important to set the correct charging amps according to the batt cells specs. My stock setting was 80Amps which is about 2C, so I have decreased it to about 40Amps to make sure I don’t charge the battery with higher rate than 1C. Another important setting is to set the minimum revolutions at which the charging is going to be active when you close the throttle. This will affect your slow speed riding as you don’t have a clutch. If the regen gets activated at very low revolutions, you might loose balance. I found the sweet spot for me is minimum 300 revs. The second moment is when you actually press the brakes. The bike will start charging again. I hope this helps
Hi, thank you very much for the detailed info! I just ordered the cable because of it : ) I noticed there is a cruise control setting - have you tried playing with it? Also, how to find out battery C type for the standard SuperSoco battery? Thank you!
Love the video!! Really hope to see more of your content. I’m currently saving up to buy a TC max myself. This video helps a lot to gain faith in the brand super soco. Thanks!!
Great video. I use my TC MAX for fun, so only ride in good weather and have done over 1,700 trouble-free miles. I've found the original tyres fine so far. I look forward to your next instalment.
Thanks! They're great aren't they! I'll have a play with the regen next on the TC Max and upload the results. I'm thinking about putting it on the headlight switch. It's unused on my bike as the headlight is wired always on. I emailed super soco in china to ask why they didn't enable the regen. They said "for security when high speed". It's wired to the brake light switches as is but basic regen is unpredictable depending on speed. I think that's what they meant. Best to have a separate switch!
Very keen to find out more about the regen! I live in hilly Devon and whilst I coast down the hills they're so steep I often break down them, it would be amazing to be able to motor break down them after using XYZ power to get up them. Thanks again for the video. I'm only 500 miles in to mine, she replaced my Suzuki SV650 for a 4 mile round commute. I also charge at work so she's often left at 90% overnight then charged at work from about 85% back up to 100%. Thanks again for the videos. You were one of the people who definitely swayed me to go down the TC Max route. Honesty and information was key for me.
I'm working on it! There should hopefully be a programming cable available soon. I'll do a video on how to use it. You can add regen and also change the settings on the mode switch to limit power as well as top speed. Thanks for the compliment. Pleased to have helped!
@@thecapacitator8137 would the programming cable be for the stock motor controller? I've recently had the GPS module replaced (oddly the one that failed was super soco branded and the replacement was v Moto) via warranty as the app kept failing. So I'd be keen to keep the warranty going even if it's just for the parts. Thanks again and looking forward to it 😀
Yes it's for the standard controller. Might invalidate your warranty but I'm not sure how they'd know. I'm not planning on increasing power, just get the best range. Thanks for the info on your warranty claim. It's good to know they are honouring it.
@@thecapacitator8137 exactly the same as you, for me. I'd be keen to pop regen on and limit acceleration on level one and a maybe a tiny bit on 2. that's about it I think! I log my journeys home and often use the same battery % for the same 3 mile journey regardless if I'm on level 1, 2 or 3. I think this is because it's just a huge big hill all the way home. One of my favourite battery saving techniques is to tuck! It reminds me of my old 125cc days when I had to overtake. You feel the motor ease off as soon as you do even though you keep the same speed. Anyways, I waffling. Thanks again!
That's good you've been logging your battery use. You'll be able to report if the regen makes much difference. Maximum regen will be limited to 10a with the standard battery as the BMS will most likely disconnect if you try more. I'm not sure if reducing power on the mode switch will make a massive difference as you're probably modulating throttle anyway. It takes me back too! Haven't had as much fun on the road for years! I do the same on the short bit of main road on my regular run. Specially if it's windy.
Btw to enable regen you must switch the bike to 1 while going a speed over 40kph and pull the throttle down and then u will notice a recharging indicator on the speedometer
I have done around 4k km and it is great . I used it on heavy rain and it works fine. If you put some grease in the areas that you showed on your video then you will not have any problem with the corrosion. You can do it once every 6 months. Also you get the bike with different quality on tyres in each region and this is the reason that people change the tyres right away. Unfortunately i dont like the foot pads because they get loose and you need to keep a small allen to tight the bolts from time to time. The people that they got bad quality on tyres they have to check the air on weekly basis.
Thank you..I needed this right now, as I’m buying one tomorrow. I’m a bit concerned about the corrosion of the carbon steel frame but I’m hoping a bit of waxoyl & chip guard might prevent this, before it starts. I’m sooo looking forward to owning one of these..I can’t wait 😁🙏🏻
@@thecapacitator8137 - thanks for the reassuring words..I’d still be much happier if they’d made it from a high grade alloy or even galvanised it though..I’d have it galvanised, if I thought I could fully disassemble/reassemble one of these things..you made it look easy..do ya fancy doing it for me please..lol ?😂😂
Very interesting video. I have ridden mine for a bit more than 2000 km so far and the main complaints I have are the range (I could use an upgrade), the brakes that really don't brake as much in the rain and the rear shock that's way too weak (already tightened to the max) and causes my top case support to hit the number plate on bumps. Other than that the tires are kinda slippery in the rain, but I don't have much to compare them to. Also I had to do the rear wheel alignment/belt tension myself as the dealer had it completely messed up (twice. From the beginning and at the 2k maintenance) with a lot of belt grinding. I still have to investigate as I feel it's still making a bit more noise than it should. I would love to see if and how you might be able to enable regen braking!
Thanks for the info! My belt makes a fair bit of noise too. I wouldn't worry too much. It's only noticeable due to the rest of the bike being so quiet! Mine started making noise around 1000 miles. I think you'd find all tyres have poor grip in the wet. Specially in town where diesel get's spilled by trucks. Just be super cautious when the road's wet. Should have the programming cable tomorrow. I'll upload a video as soon as possible!
Great bike although I require at least 50miles at 50 mph which gives me 3 days to charge for the following week, if it was for me I would stove enamel the frame for a long term commute bike. Great video content, the best I’ve seen.
@@thecapacitator8137 what pops into my mind is an electric motor combined with a variatior belt drive to increase from 30 mph that seems to be the optimum speed for distance to 60 mph, you see once you get out of town everything slower than the national speed limit forces car drivers to want to overtake and that’s why I have not bought a commuter bike, every manufacturer seems to be trying to break the sound barrier instead of the safety barrier.
@@markellis3648 It does get a bit frustrating on fast roads. I stick to the back roads and town. I'm looking at gearing it down for acceleration and maybe more efficiency on the hills.
I’ve hit 10000 miles with original belt but got rid of alarm, side stand switch and speedo as they started failing in the wet and cold weather. I swapped original battery for long range like you have and decided to put aftermarket controller at the same time so I can have a little more customisation to my liking. I did swap out the tyres too and put some ebc brake pads in. It is a really fun bike to ride but I did have to align the motor with the rear pulley using spacers and some grinding so that the belt runs straight and stops rubbing. Most likely why I’ve got so many miles from original belt.
Hi, was hoping you'd drop in! Interesting you mention about motor alignment. The reason I dismantled my bike was due to it being written off. The motor was aligned perfectly on that bike. My new bike however requires the rear wheel to be adjusted to keep the belt on (that's what soco recommend). Only 3mm or so. Feels straight when riding. See how it goes in terms of wear. Did you get the original 5a charger? I've heard from a couple of people who had them break. Also wondering, do you park outdoors?
Oh what happened to the first bike that wrote it off? Doesn’t seem overly damaged in your video? My belt was quite visibly bowed and no amount of adjustment on the rear wheel would get rid of it. Made a terrible noise in the wet and cold too which disappeared once it was straight. I did have the 5a charger which used to get pretty hot but I swapped it out for an AliExpress adjustable charger which iv also set to 80v as I don’t usually need the battery at its full 100% 84v. My bike is permanently stored outside but under a lean-to to keep the rain off the switches and really the framework etc is looking pretty good considering I ride salt roads etc all year round.
Guy pulled out on me. There was minor frame damage so cat B. Disappointed I can't continue clocking up miles! My 5a gets hot too but also doesn't fully charge sometimes. Nice and quiet with no fan but heavy with the potting. It seems to be the transformers that get hot. It was you who recommended the Wate one to me. That still works! I just got a new 18a one from jhopass on aliexpress. It's fairly small and light for it's output. Need inspecting before use though. The pos output wire was touching the neg shunt which gets hot. It was already starting to melt through after one test charge! Good idea under charging. Your battery should last ages. Do you take it in with you at home? I prefer not to charge when it's too cold. You can get anode plating apparently. I prefer over 10C. Just been for a little ride and recorded my phone screen with the BMS app running. Bike pulls 6.5kw! That's more than I expected.
@@thecapacitator8137 ah yes my wate one is now my backup in case my higher powered one stops working for some reason. Oh 18a is nice, mine tops out at 13a but the battery should be able to take upto 50a but I’d probably not risk it that high. Interestingly my higher powered more expensive charger is actually quite a bit more efficient than the cheaper slower wate one. I charge off solar too so efficiency is something I can monitor fairly easily. Good call checking your charger before plugging it in!! I don’t charge below 1c at all but have recently been charging overnight with batt temps as low as 2c. Not ideal as you say but it’s just too convenient for me to just plug the bike in after work. 6.5kw is a good amount, the motor for sure can handle a lot more peak power if you ever wanted it. I fitted a temp sensor in my motor and it rarely gets 20c above outside air temp, and I’m running 9.5kw peak with roughly 2-2.5 continuous. No hills though.
@@lhk8558 I get about 10C rise in battery temp at 18a so have to keep an eye on that. I don't really want to push it any further. The charger is just about light enough to carry with me so I'm going to attempt some longer journeys with a public charge half way. Did you upgrade the flimsy wire between charge port and battery? I've been connecting direct to the battery with my 18a charger. Most battery datasheets say it's okay down to 0C. I think most of the damage is done at the top of the charge so it should be fine due to you under charging. I thought that too about the motor. But I prefer to have it set at a peak that it'll do continuously. I think the high voltage wiring and the battery connector are probably a weak link too. If I went higher power I'd prefer to upgrade them and probably build a battery with higher discharge rated cells in too. My most regular journey is over 40 miles. It makes more sense to have more power if your doing shorter journeys as it sounds like you do. Parts wont have time to get too hot. I'd love to have a go on yours with all that power! Which motor controller do you have? I quite like the look of the model above the standard one. Think it's called VEC500. Might be a bit big though.
Hey, thanks for the video ! I'd love to see the upgrades you've given your bike. I own a TC and am a bit sorry for not going for the TC Max as I feel it is slightly underpowered from time to time ... but I'm sure I can mod it to make it a bit more springy. I've only put 1600 Km on mine but the single battery that you get with the regular TC only leaves you with around 30 km, which isn't much. Altogether, thanks for the vid and great to see some other super socos around the internet !
The biggest mod is the battery. Mainly for extra range, not performance. Have a look at my other videos. Maybe you could upgrade to a TC Max rather than spend money on modding your TC? On the TC Max everything is running as close to maximum as I'm comfortable with. If you tune your bike too much it could become unreliable.
@@thecapacitator8137 Definitely I'd love to upgrade the battery and it would be the first "mod" i'd give it. Problem is we're looking at around 1500-2000 € (i guess about 1200-1700 quid) for a full capacity battery (60 Ah). As for reliability, if i ever fiddle with anything else, i wouldn't feel safe doing too big of a mod. I'm no specialist in bike structures. As for going for a tc max ... i'm considering it but i'd have to brake the piggy bank for that 😆
Really Great Video thank you. It is my first motorbike for 20+ years and is a great little commuter around Bristol. I have noticed the belt cutting into the inner fairing just before the motor so gonna either look at wheel alignment or get fowlers to have a look as it was fine before the Warped Brake disks were replaced under warranty! I have done 1300ish miles since November 2021 has one service. I just need to rebuild my garage to have some where i can take it apart and clean up all the rust! I would really to increase the range on it or i may have to go to a zero. I would really like to do the full solar panel charging setup so please share when you can.
Congratulations on your return to biking! Welcome back! That's unusual. Maybe they didn't align the wheel properly after fixing the brake? I'm working on a video about how to re-program the motor controller to add regenerative braking. May give you a couple more miles.
Great review! I had a standard TC about 3 years ago and was quite impressed with the build quality as well. I also built a DIY battery which was successful and a great project and learning curve! One question about the TC Max, how much does the top speed/power suffer when the battery is under say 50% and the voltage starts to reduce?
Outstanding video 👏. This is a very balanced review. Are there any eletrical issues that you've had to trouble shoot? How did you learn how to repair the bike yourself? I want to be as independent from the dealer as possible. Are parts hard to come by?
I've been working on bikes and electronics for years. There's not much difference between maintaining a petrol bike and an electric one. Electric ones are much easier. Parts seem to be readily available from either dealers or aliexpress. You won't need much though. Maybe a set of brake pads, a belt and pulleys set. But only after 15000 miles or so.
Like the TESLA logo on the tank! That'll cause confusion with the Motorheads! Great video and a nice bike. I would be tempted to import a bike from China via Ali Baba. Have you any experience of imports? Did you ever mange to enable regen braking?
I am a fan of analog instruments, it can be a long discussion which one is better. Analog are more appealing but to be honest it can be quicker and more accurate to read a number rather a needle and where exactly it's pointing. However it depends what we mean "looking", if by "looking" we mean looking straight at the speedometer then digital is faster and more accurate. But if we look on the road and with instant glimpse looking the speedometer at at angle then maybe the analog is better. That could be a subject of reasearch for safety. As I know a few things about electronics, the electronic components are way cheaper than intricate needle mechanisms. They do it for money... But then again, a lot of reviews praise the digital, TFTs etc...
Thanks for the review very helpful to know if it’ll be right for my 34 mile return commute. One question is the standard charger waterproof and useable with an out door 3pin plug?
No it's not waterproof and has a standard 3 pin mains plug. I bungee net mine under the seat when charging outdoors but it's never been rained on. The first shot in my most recent video shows how I set it up.
@The Capacitator I'm ok to charge at work but think I'll need to build a shelter and a housing for the charging brick at home as I don't fancy lifting the battery out each night. thanks for letting me know, very useful videos 👍
Hi! Where do you ordered the programming cable? If You could make a video about tuning the ECU That would be awesome. I have a Super Soco TC and the throttle response is a bit sharp at the lower end.
Hi mate, great video. Are you able to help me figure out how to disconnect the speaker? I have a 2022 tc max in Australia and the double tapping doesn’t work. I found the speaker and it looks like it’s part of the immobiliser itself, upon disconnecting the loom the bike doesn’t work. And I’m unable to find a wiring diagram to disconnect the speaker itself! Any help would be appreciated 😅
Hi, it's possible to prise the box open. I used a blade and very carefully worked all the way round the join. Once it's open you can disconnect the speaker. It may need a bit of glue or silicone to seal it back up afterwards.
Not very often. I ride on dirty back roads too. I covered the bottom of the frame with waxoil then sprayed it inside the bottom tubes. Seems to be keeping the rust away. I'll do it again at service time.
The alarm system in the bike can be changed for the one in the Super Soco scooters which have a less embarrassing sound. Go Green Motorcycles swapped mine out. The keyfob also changes to one you can remote start up the bike with. Although that fob has another issue where buttons can be pushed in while in pocket.
Any ideas on why the caliper may be stuck (like someone is holding the brake lever)? Mine got stuck after a period of sitting in the garage. The dashboard shows 98% error code when you push the throttle and I think that’s the battery error code. Battery still charging and holding charge normally though. Appreciate any info!
Error 98 is controller error possibly caused by the brake being seized. Take the brake caliper off and remove the pads. Take pictures as you go if your unfamiliar with brakes so you know how they go back together. Remove the brake pads and pump the pistons out a little with the brake lever. Don't go too far or they'll fall out and release all the fluid. Clean the pistons then push them all the way back in. Work them in and out a few times. Then reassemble. If one piston gets stuck and doesn't want to come out try holding the other piston with a piece of wood jammed in to stop it then pump the brake again. If it's the back brake there's only one piston so you won't have to worry about that.
I would just put some connectors on the end of the wires and plug the new indicator into them. If the wires are not long enough. Find them in the loom that exits the light, pull them out then extend them. Then feed them back through the light.
Hi, i know that the service center is worst and i hope to fix my tc but i got no info also lately my battery has a crack on the bottom plastic cap and i had seen some oil over there and I'm worried.
@thecapacitator8137 Thank you. As a new rider, I crashed just by breaking too hard with the front weel. Broke my arm, but I'm ok now. The bike is also ok, but I need to change the handlebar and will try by myself💪
@@jonnyraul3166 Sounds nasty, pleased you're recovering. The screws can be really tight so make sure the screwdriver you use is a good fit. If it doesn't budge drill the screw with a drill bit about the same size as the screw thread. Think it's 5mm. Then order some new screws.
@@thecapacitator8137 If you mean the indicator no longer working then I don't think it's fine haha, having a hell of a time trying to get warranty support on it.
@@thecapacitator8137 after watching your video again it gave me the confidence to go ahead and fix the broken cable myself. Two were badly frayed, one was completely snapped in half. Noticed one of the cable's pins at the bottom of the bike wasn't pushed into the plug socket properly either. Bike sorted now whoop whoop. I figure it's what the shop would have done anyway.
You need a programming cable. I'm working on a video on how to do it. Should have programming cables available to buy soon too. I was thinking of removing the speaker from the alarm box to disable the start up music. It's mounted under the battery box on the left side of the bike.
Hi my Friend Great Video as Always!!! I don't have Lights or Dash, do you think it's the 12V converter? Can you show that Part? Thanks Bruno, from Portugal.
Hi Bruno. Yes, it could be the DC-DC converter. It's mounted to the rear of the battery box. It's the second thing I unplug on the left side of the bike before removing the battery box.
The chinese vision is Different. Just like controller is not under the BATTERY. The Electric controller is in front of battery,THE FRONT FAIRING TRIM IS. After tomorrow I can take a video for you.😊
@@thecapacitator8137 you could. BUT the box is tightly sealed. Opening it is going to be difficult and can damage the electronics inside. My solution: stuffed some cotton through the plastic cuts for the speaker. It stoped the speaker from vibrating, thus, no sound! :D If for some reason I need to get the bike serviced, I'll just remove the cotton and it should work fine.
If anybody knows how to import one of these cheap to the US let me know. Unfortunately we are stuck with “onyx “ And other over priced hub drive e bike/ mopeds or super SoCo under powered step thru scooters!. I’m dying over here, please help lol
Been arguin g with the mrs over the bike having no ABS and me locking the wheels inthe wet and stacking it., so the faring being made of ABS technically makes her ... well not wrong, just not right.
After stacking it 2x in the mud and@@thecapacitator8137 wondering if i ought to put on different tyres (apparently recommended) - I wanted to see if the left footpeg was supposed to be bent in as some design, as it looked as if it had been cast that way - I picked it up like that and the guy said he had replaced a panel that was scratched. Battery cover takes a few pushes to click. The front wheel is ever so slightly misaligned, so I think this bike I have was dropped on the road a few times - the drift I get with the rear brake is from the misalignment, and steep road camber anyway, I think. At least it's not that heavy, but I don't like having to roll off into the muddy bank and look like an idiot! I'm a bit of a front wheel braker, so the misalignment is even worse for wet when trying to maintain control. Now I'm aware of all this, which I'm saying thanks for, cos of your video, I'm not gonna be tazzing it so fast around the lanes here, and keeping my pushbike for bad weather. I was a bit sad that you didn't like the bike, so much, but I'm up along the Welsh borders either doing 10 up or 35 down and round. A bit more rough-roading, but minimal traffic, thankfully. Your roads seem nice, but here - The bike does not have enough presence for safe A roads more than a town junction or two, I think - I'd cycle them np, but on an e-bike I get bulled no matter how loud I swear at them, every journey, without fail..! It's dangerous. I think we have them for different purposes, as its range (20% remaining) is a round trip to see the mrs, and also - at the age of 43 - I've never held a full license, so cars are the enemy afaik :P Thanks for your reply, mate! It's helped me decide a few things about which I was unsure. I'll keep the bike, but with less than 200 miles from me (coming up to 2k total since 2019), but I think changing the tyres, adding a shade/cover to the dash - and fixing the misaligned wheel , replace that peg and prob clevis assembly, can probably machine one... But yeah - I'm going to be much safer on this bike now. Idk why it has pillion pegs either ;¬) lol Have a good weekend :)
@@PeterAustin666 If the forks are twisted in the yoke slacken the clamps and twist it straight. Might be worth supporting the weight of the bike with a box or something. Or rock it on to the side stand a bit so minimal weight is on the forks. I wouldn't bother with new tyres. The standard ones are fine. No road tyre will grip well on mud.
@@thecapacitator8137 thanks for the tips! I've been looking for any marks to suggest someone has done it before - sometimes you can find the telltale lines of someone putting things back just not quite right. Pretty sure its from stacking the bike on its left, handlebars locked left, pushing them on way and the wheel direction the other - cos that's how it was feeling - it's not the road camber being so steep - it's definitely a few degrees skew. Can't complain about having to straighten the handlbars and deal with a bent footpeg, for 1500 quid off the list price tho.
Love it how the big up the E bike still range issues imagine if everyone used e bikes how would a government replace the lost revenue frompetrol. Oh i know lets increase the cost to charge a E bike. So please stop living in cuckoo land they are expensive milk floats.
I sell upgrades for soco bikes , controllers , batteries and motors for Ts , Tc and scooter models also racing brake system upgrades , suspension front and rear feel free to comment if interested , parts are directly sold from China
Programming cable for TC Max controller - titimus.co.uk/shop
I wanted to ask,do you think this could be run along aside a solar powerstation albeit a good one
@@kularm How do you mean?
So I was thinking of buying a Ups system like anker or bluetti etc. According to spec I should be able to charge this bikes battery via that ups. I wanted to buy 400w of solar to charge that battery then making it off the grid. I won't be riding every day
@@drflatpackcustomerservices153 Sounds good!
Great to see a review from an actual owner. Thanks for sharing.
I have enabled regen on my TC Max. I’ve also created my own data cable using cheap FTDI module.
Regarding the regen, there are few important settings to keep in mind. And also two moments when the regen is triggered.
The first moment is when you close the throttle, the bike will start charging. It is important to set the correct charging amps according to the batt cells specs. My stock setting was 80Amps which is about 2C, so I have decreased it to about 40Amps to make sure I don’t charge the battery with higher rate than 1C.
Another important setting is to set the minimum revolutions at which the charging is going to be active when you close the throttle. This will affect your slow speed riding as you don’t have a clutch. If the regen gets activated at very low revolutions, you might loose balance. I found the sweet spot for me is minimum 300 revs.
The second moment is when you actually press the brakes. The bike will start charging again.
I hope this helps
Hi, thank you very much for the detailed info! I just ordered the cable because of it : ) I noticed there is a cruise control setting - have you tried playing with it? Also, how to find out battery C type for the standard SuperSoco battery? Thank you!
"In depth" - you weren't lying!
Love the video!! Really hope to see more of your content. I’m currently saving up to buy a TC max myself. This video helps a lot to gain faith in the brand super soco. Thanks!!
Great video. I use my TC MAX for fun, so only ride in good weather and have done over 1,700 trouble-free miles. I've found the original tyres fine so far. I look forward to your next instalment.
Thanks! They're great aren't they! I'll have a play with the regen next on the TC Max and upload the results. I'm thinking about putting it on the headlight switch. It's unused on my bike as the headlight is wired always on. I emailed super soco in china to ask why they didn't enable the regen. They said "for security when high speed". It's wired to the brake light switches as is but basic regen is unpredictable depending on speed. I think that's what they meant. Best to have a separate switch!
Very keen to find out more about the regen! I live in hilly Devon and whilst I coast down the hills they're so steep I often break down them, it would be amazing to be able to motor break down them after using XYZ power to get up them. Thanks again for the video.
I'm only 500 miles in to mine, she replaced my Suzuki SV650 for a 4 mile round commute. I also charge at work so she's often left at 90% overnight then charged at work from about 85% back up to 100%.
Thanks again for the videos. You were one of the people who definitely swayed me to go down the TC Max route. Honesty and information was key for me.
I'm working on it! There should hopefully be a programming cable available soon. I'll do a video on how to use it. You can add regen and also change the settings on the mode switch to limit power as well as top speed.
Thanks for the compliment. Pleased to have helped!
@@thecapacitator8137 would the programming cable be for the stock motor controller? I've recently had the GPS module replaced (oddly the one that failed was super soco branded and the replacement was v Moto) via warranty as the app kept failing. So I'd be keen to keep the warranty going even if it's just for the parts.
Thanks again and looking forward to it 😀
Yes it's for the standard controller. Might invalidate your warranty but I'm not sure how they'd know. I'm not planning on increasing power, just get the best range.
Thanks for the info on your warranty claim. It's good to know they are honouring it.
@@thecapacitator8137 exactly the same as you, for me. I'd be keen to pop regen on and limit acceleration on level one and a maybe a tiny bit on 2. that's about it I think!
I log my journeys home and often use the same battery % for the same 3 mile journey regardless if I'm on level 1, 2 or 3. I think this is because it's just a huge big hill all the way home.
One of my favourite battery saving techniques is to tuck! It reminds me of my old 125cc days when I had to overtake. You feel the motor ease off as soon as you do even though you keep the same speed.
Anyways, I waffling. Thanks again!
That's good you've been logging your battery use. You'll be able to report if the regen makes much difference. Maximum regen will be limited to 10a with the standard battery as the BMS will most likely disconnect if you try more.
I'm not sure if reducing power on the mode switch will make a massive difference as you're probably modulating throttle anyway.
It takes me back too! Haven't had as much fun on the road for years! I do the same on the short bit of main road on my regular run. Specially if it's windy.
Tires are reliable but the grip is far behind Pirelli Angel city which is a pure glue.
Front mount 100/17 rear 130/17 works really fine
Nice - thanks - I am thinking that the tyres are def for nice roads only. Perhaps Mitas MC32 all-weathers.
Btw to enable regen you must switch the bike to 1 while going a speed over 40kph and pull the throttle down and then u will notice a recharging indicator on the speedometer
Without any modification?!
is this for real :)?
Hi, I have rebuilt quite a few supersocos, the motor they use is the same as the qs138 50H.
I have done around 4k km and it is great . I used it on heavy rain and it works fine. If you put some grease in the areas that you showed on your video then you will not have any problem with the corrosion. You can do it once every 6 months. Also you get the bike with different quality on tyres in each region and this is the reason that people change the tyres right away. Unfortunately i dont like the foot pads because they get loose and you need to keep a small allen to tight the bolts from time to time. The people that they got bad quality on tyres they have to check the air on weekly basis.
There is an Allen included with the bike, attached to the bottom of the seat. At least, it is included in my not-Max TC.
Thanks a bunch for the video. I will be buying one of those very soon.
Brilliant video sir
Thank you..I needed this right now, as I’m buying one tomorrow. I’m a bit concerned about the corrosion of the carbon steel frame but I’m hoping a bit of waxoyl & chip guard might prevent this, before it starts. I’m sooo looking forward to owning one of these..I can’t wait 😁🙏🏻
Congratulations! Yes, bit of treatment to the frame and it should be fine.
@@thecapacitator8137 - thanks for the reassuring words..I’d still be much happier if they’d made it from a high grade alloy or even galvanised it though..I’d have it galvanised, if I thought I could fully disassemble/reassemble one of these things..you made it look easy..do ya fancy doing it for me please..lol ?😂😂
Very interesting video. I have ridden mine for a bit more than 2000 km so far and the main complaints I have are the range (I could use an upgrade), the brakes that really don't brake as much in the rain and the rear shock that's way too weak (already tightened to the max) and causes my top case support to hit the number plate on bumps.
Other than that the tires are kinda slippery in the rain, but I don't have much to compare them to.
Also I had to do the rear wheel alignment/belt tension myself as the dealer had it completely messed up (twice. From the beginning and at the 2k maintenance) with a lot of belt grinding. I still have to investigate as I feel it's still making a bit more noise than it should.
I would love to see if and how you might be able to enable regen braking!
Thanks for the info! My belt makes a fair bit of noise too. I wouldn't worry too much. It's only noticeable due to the rest of the bike being so quiet! Mine started making noise around 1000 miles.
I think you'd find all tyres have poor grip in the wet. Specially in town where diesel get's spilled by trucks. Just be super cautious when the road's wet.
Should have the programming cable tomorrow. I'll upload a video as soon as possible!
Amazingly detailed video. Thank you
Great bike although I require at least 50miles at 50 mph which gives me 3 days to charge for the following week, if it was for me I would stove enamel the frame for a long term commute bike. Great video content, the best I’ve seen.
They keep talking about bringing out a faster, longer range bike but it hasn't happened yet.
@@thecapacitator8137 what pops into my mind is an electric motor combined with a variatior belt drive to increase from 30 mph that seems to be the optimum speed for distance to 60 mph, you see once you get out of town everything slower than the national speed limit forces car drivers to want to overtake and that’s why I have not bought a commuter bike, every manufacturer seems to be trying to break the sound barrier instead of the safety barrier.
@@markellis3648 It does get a bit frustrating on fast roads. I stick to the back roads and town. I'm looking at gearing it down for acceleration and maybe more efficiency on the hills.
I’ve hit 10000 miles with original belt but got rid of alarm, side stand switch and speedo as they started failing in the wet and cold weather. I swapped original battery for long range like you have and decided to put aftermarket controller at the same time so I can have a little more customisation to my liking. I did swap out the tyres too and put some ebc brake pads in. It is a really fun bike to ride but I did have to align the motor with the rear pulley using spacers and some grinding so that the belt runs straight and stops rubbing. Most likely why I’ve got so many miles from original belt.
Hi, was hoping you'd drop in! Interesting you mention about motor alignment. The reason I dismantled my bike was due to it being written off. The motor was aligned perfectly on that bike. My new bike however requires the rear wheel to be adjusted to keep the belt on (that's what soco recommend). Only 3mm or so. Feels straight when riding. See how it goes in terms of wear.
Did you get the original 5a charger? I've heard from a couple of people who had them break.
Also wondering, do you park outdoors?
Oh what happened to the first bike that wrote it off? Doesn’t seem overly damaged in your video?
My belt was quite visibly bowed and no amount of adjustment on the rear wheel would get rid of it. Made a terrible noise in the wet and cold too which disappeared once it was straight.
I did have the 5a charger which used to get pretty hot but I swapped it out for an AliExpress adjustable charger which iv also set to 80v as I don’t usually need the battery at its full 100% 84v. My bike is permanently stored outside but under a lean-to to keep the rain off the switches and really the framework etc is looking pretty good considering I ride salt roads etc all year round.
Guy pulled out on me. There was minor frame damage so cat B. Disappointed I can't continue clocking up miles!
My 5a gets hot too but also doesn't fully charge sometimes. Nice and quiet with no fan but heavy with the potting. It seems to be the transformers that get hot. It was you who recommended the Wate one to me. That still works!
I just got a new 18a one from jhopass on aliexpress. It's fairly small and light for it's output. Need inspecting before use though. The pos output wire was touching the neg shunt which gets hot. It was already starting to melt through after one test charge!
Good idea under charging. Your battery should last ages. Do you take it in with you at home? I prefer not to charge when it's too cold. You can get anode plating apparently. I prefer over 10C.
Just been for a little ride and recorded my phone screen with the BMS app running. Bike pulls 6.5kw! That's more than I expected.
@@thecapacitator8137 ah yes my wate one is now my backup in case my higher powered one stops working for some reason. Oh 18a is nice, mine tops out at 13a but the battery should be able to take upto 50a but I’d probably not risk it that high. Interestingly my higher powered more expensive charger is actually quite a bit more efficient than the cheaper slower wate one. I charge off solar too so efficiency is something I can monitor fairly easily.
Good call checking your charger before plugging it in!! I don’t charge below 1c at all but have recently been charging overnight with batt temps as low as 2c. Not ideal as you say but it’s just too convenient for me to just plug the bike in after work.
6.5kw is a good amount, the motor for sure can handle a lot more peak power if you ever wanted it. I fitted a temp sensor in my motor and it rarely gets 20c above outside air temp, and I’m running 9.5kw peak with roughly 2-2.5 continuous. No hills though.
@@lhk8558 I get about 10C rise in battery temp at 18a so have to keep an eye on that. I don't really want to push it any further. The charger is just about light enough to carry with me so I'm going to attempt some longer journeys with a public charge half way. Did you upgrade the flimsy wire between charge port and battery? I've been connecting direct to the battery with my 18a charger.
Most battery datasheets say it's okay down to 0C. I think most of the damage is done at the top of the charge so it should be fine due to you under charging.
I thought that too about the motor. But I prefer to have it set at a peak that it'll do continuously. I think the high voltage wiring and the battery connector are probably a weak link too. If I went higher power I'd prefer to upgrade them and probably build a battery with higher discharge rated cells in too. My most regular journey is over 40 miles. It makes more sense to have more power if your doing shorter journeys as it sounds like you do. Parts wont have time to get too hot. I'd love to have a go on yours with all that power! Which motor controller do you have? I quite like the look of the model above the standard one. Think it's called VEC500. Might be a bit big though.
Useful video! Have you tested the Supersoco CPX which has 2 battery?
I've ridden one once. Nice bike but not as fast as the TC Max.
Hey, thanks for the video ! I'd love to see the upgrades you've given your bike. I own a TC and am a bit sorry for not going for the TC Max as I feel it is slightly underpowered from time to time ... but I'm sure I can mod it to make it a bit more springy. I've only put 1600 Km on mine but the single battery that you get with the regular TC only leaves you with around 30 km, which isn't much.
Altogether, thanks for the vid and great to see some other super socos around the internet !
The biggest mod is the battery. Mainly for extra range, not performance. Have a look at my other videos.
Maybe you could upgrade to a TC Max rather than spend money on modding your TC? On the TC Max everything is running as close to maximum as I'm comfortable with. If you tune your bike too much it could become unreliable.
@@thecapacitator8137 Definitely I'd love to upgrade the battery and it would be the first "mod" i'd give it. Problem is we're looking at around 1500-2000 € (i guess about 1200-1700 quid) for a full capacity battery (60 Ah).
As for reliability, if i ever fiddle with anything else, i wouldn't feel safe doing too big of a mod. I'm no specialist in bike structures.
As for going for a tc max ... i'm considering it but i'd have to brake the piggy bank for that 😆
That's a lot of money for the battery. Could go a long way towards a TC Max if you want more power and range. You could always buy second hand.
Really Great Video thank you. It is my first motorbike for 20+ years and is a great little commuter around Bristol.
I have noticed the belt cutting into the inner fairing just before the motor so gonna either look at wheel alignment or get fowlers to have a look as it was fine before the Warped Brake disks were replaced under warranty!
I have done 1300ish miles since November 2021 has one service.
I just need to rebuild my garage to have some where i can take it apart and clean up all the rust!
I would really to increase the range on it or i may have to go to a zero.
I would really like to do the full solar panel charging setup so please share when you can.
Ignore last bit found your videos :-)
Congratulations on your return to biking! Welcome back!
That's unusual. Maybe they didn't align the wheel properly after fixing the brake?
I'm working on a video about how to re-program the motor controller to add regenerative braking. May give you a couple more miles.
Great review! I had a standard TC about 3 years ago and was quite impressed with the build quality as well. I also built a DIY battery which was successful and a great project and learning curve! One question about the TC Max, how much does the top speed/power suffer when the battery is under say 50% and the voltage starts to reduce?
I'm not sure exactly but it does slow it down a bit. Sorry I can't give accurate numbers.
great video, thank you
Outstanding video 👏. This is a very balanced review.
Are there any eletrical issues that you've had to trouble shoot? How did you learn how to repair the bike yourself? I want to be as independent from the dealer as possible. Are parts hard to come by?
I've been working on bikes and electronics for years. There's not much difference between maintaining a petrol bike and an electric one. Electric ones are much easier.
Parts seem to be readily available from either dealers or aliexpress. You won't need much though. Maybe a set of brake pads, a belt and pulleys set. But only after 15000 miles or so.
1:09 is that a Yamaha FS1 in the background?
(My first moped back in the day, i absolutely loved it)
No it's a Honda SS50E. I restored it a few years ago. Not as quick as the legendary FS1 but good on fuel though.
titimus.co.uk/honda-ss50
@@thecapacitator8137 i have mixed those two up so many times haha. Nice project though, great result! Thanks for the reply!
What a thorough and good review ! Well done
Like the TESLA logo on the tank! That'll cause confusion with the Motorheads! Great video and a nice bike. I would be tempted to import a bike from China via Ali Baba. Have you any experience of imports? Did you ever mange to enable regen braking?
Thanks! I've imported parts no problem but never a whole bike.
Got the regen working in the next video.
I am a fan of analog instruments, it can be a long discussion which one is better. Analog are more appealing but to be honest it can be quicker and more accurate to read a number rather a needle and where exactly it's pointing. However it depends what we mean "looking", if by "looking" we mean looking straight at the speedometer then digital is faster and more accurate. But if we look on the road and with instant glimpse looking the speedometer at at angle then maybe the analog is better.
That could be a subject of reasearch for safety. As I know a few things about electronics, the electronic components are way cheaper than intricate needle mechanisms. They do it for money... But then again, a lot of reviews praise the digital, TFTs etc...
One advantage of coded parts is to negate theft.
Thanks for the review very helpful to know if it’ll be right for my 34 mile return commute. One question is the standard charger waterproof and useable with an out door 3pin plug?
No it's not waterproof and has a standard 3 pin mains plug. I bungee net mine under the seat when charging outdoors but it's never been rained on. The first shot in my most recent video shows how I set it up.
@The Capacitator I'm ok to charge at work but think I'll need to build a shelter and a housing for the charging brick at home as I don't fancy lifting the battery out each night. thanks for letting me know, very useful videos 👍
Hi! Where do you ordered the programming cable? If You could make a video about tuning the ECU That would be awesome. I have a Super Soco TC and the throttle response is a bit sharp at the lower end.
Hi, should hopefully have a source for programming cables soon. I'm working on the video now!
Wow great video, just not sure why your range is so low on a dull charge, I get 50 miles on regular use everyday.
That's 100% - 20% discharge.
Hi mate, great video.
Are you able to help me figure out how to disconnect the speaker? I have a 2022 tc max in Australia and the double tapping doesn’t work.
I found the speaker and it looks like it’s part of the immobiliser itself, upon disconnecting the loom the bike doesn’t work. And I’m unable to find a wiring diagram to disconnect the speaker itself!
Any help would be appreciated 😅
Hi, it's possible to prise the box open. I used a blade and very carefully worked all the way round the join. Once it's open you can disconnect the speaker. It may need a bit of glue or silicone to seal it back up afterwards.
@@thecapacitator8137 perfect. Sorted now 🙏🏼
Can we replace the rear big sprocket with smaller one to increase top speed? Is there any other suitable parts for the replacement?
I don't think it would pull higher gearing. I'm more interested in the opposite, lower gearing. For faster acceleration and torque.
勉強になりましたありがとうございます👍️
how frequent you wash your tc max. im worried about the rust especially when riding around near beach areas.
Not very often. I ride on dirty back roads too. I covered the bottom of the frame with waxoil then sprayed it inside the bottom tubes. Seems to be keeping the rust away. I'll do it again at service time.
Could you please do a video on how to change the start up sound. Its emberassing hearing a windows start up sound in public😅
The alarm system in the bike can be changed for the one in the Super Soco scooters which have a less embarrassing sound. Go Green Motorcycles swapped mine out. The keyfob also changes to one you can remote start up the bike with. Although that fob has another issue where buttons can be pushed in while in pocket.
Any ideas on why the caliper may be stuck (like someone is holding the brake lever)? Mine got stuck after a period of sitting in the garage. The dashboard shows 98% error code when you push the throttle and I think that’s the battery error code. Battery still charging and holding charge normally though. Appreciate any info!
Error 98 is controller error possibly caused by the brake being seized. Take the brake caliper off and remove the pads. Take pictures as you go if your unfamiliar with brakes so you know how they go back together. Remove the brake pads and pump the pistons out a little with the brake lever. Don't go too far or they'll fall out and release all the fluid. Clean the pistons then push them all the way back in. Work them in and out a few times. Then reassemble.
If one piston gets stuck and doesn't want to come out try holding the other piston with a piece of wood jammed in to stop it then pump the brake again. If it's the back brake there's only one piston so you won't have to worry about that.
How is it in the rain?
I lost an indicator on the front.. I was wondering if you knew how to open the headlamp to replace it?
I would just put some connectors on the end of the wires and plug the new indicator into them. If the wires are not long enough. Find them in the loom that exits the light, pull them out then extend them. Then feed them back through the light.
How's the 50cc version?
Do you happen to know what the original rear mono shock size is?, I'm looking to upgrade mine but I can't find info on it.
Sorry, not sure on that one.
Tc max needs a bit more power. Riding behind a bus on a motorway increases top speed. On slower roads it is so much fun!
Hi, i know that the service center is worst and i hope to fix my tc but i got no info also lately my battery has a crack on the bottom plastic cap and i had seen some oil over there and I'm worried.
That's strange. There isn't any oil in the battery.
How did you remove the left handle? just by pulling it out? I'm asking cause I need to change the handlebar since mine had deformed after crashing
Sorry to hear that. Hope you're okay. I think the grip just pulls off and the switch gear has two screws.
@thecapacitator8137 Thank you. As a new rider, I crashed just by breaking too hard with the front weel. Broke my arm, but I'm ok now. The bike is also ok, but I need to change the handlebar and will try by myself💪
@@jonnyraul3166 Sounds nasty, pleased you're recovering.
The screws can be really tight so make sure the screwdriver you use is a good fit. If it doesn't budge drill the screw with a drill bit about the same size as the screw thread. Think it's 5mm. Then order some new screws.
Cheers I think mine was assembled wrong as the cable on the headstock has torn
That's quite common. Not just on Super Soco's. The sleeving get's brittle in the cold and as it ages. Keep an eye on the wires, should be fine.
@@thecapacitator8137 If you mean the indicator no longer working then I don't think it's fine haha, having a hell of a time trying to get warranty support on it.
Ah, sorry I thought you meant the outer sleeving. Yes sounds like they had the loom routed incorrectly. Keep at them, they should sort it out.
@@thecapacitator8137 after watching your video again it gave me the confidence to go ahead and fix the broken cable myself. Two were badly frayed, one was completely snapped in half. Noticed one of the cable's pins at the bottom of the bike wasn't pushed into the plug socket properly either. Bike sorted now whoop whoop. I figure it's what the shop would have done anyway.
Well done! That's great. Pleased the video was useful.
Hello, how do you enable the regenerative break? And disable the starting song?
You need a programming cable. I'm working on a video on how to do it. Should have programming cables available to buy soon too.
I was thinking of removing the speaker from the alarm box to disable the start up music. It's mounted under the battery box on the left side of the bike.
Hi my Friend Great Video as Always!!! I don't have Lights or Dash, do you think it's the 12V converter? Can you show that Part? Thanks Bruno, from Portugal.
Hi Bruno. Yes, it could be the DC-DC converter. It's mounted to the rear of the battery box. It's the second thing I unplug on the left side of the bike before removing the battery box.
Tive o mesmo problema, após lavar a moto (não sei se foi a causa ou pura coincidência).
@@hugomeia-onca8502 pois eu foi com chuva forte e tinha deixado a Bateria na moto... você é de onde?
@@BrunoRodrigues-oi9un Lisboa. Tive de mudar conversor, farol e alarme. Queimaram com a água.
O conversor queimou o que posteriormente levou a queimar farol e alarme.
Thanks
Thanks for vid very informative 😊
How can i share my tc max look with you. Wanna get your thoughts on it
I'm on twitter with the same name. Or make a video on here?
I have super soco tsx
Can I use this battery?
Because my battery is small and only 20mile
I think it's a different voltage
The motor is made by QS Motors
Yes QS 138 50H
Can you charge the motorcycle with the electric car charger?
If you mean a public one, yes. You need one of these...
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DnecufR
Is there an adapter for that outdoor charging? 0:16
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Ar97vx
25 mile range? Thats less than half of what the official super Soco site claims.. Im so confused - everyone say different numbers regarding the range.
That's riding pretty much flat out and leaving 20% charge.
Would a 72v 10a charger work?
Should do.
What’s the size of the rear shock?
Not sure, sorry.
Is the bike safe to ride in the rain?
Yeah, it's fine
@@thecapacitator8137 that's great I was worried it wasn't weatherproofed
The chinese vision is Different. Just like controller is not under the BATTERY. The Electric controller is in front of battery,THE FRONT FAIRING TRIM IS. After tomorrow I can take a video for you.😊
Thanks! I thought the TC had the controller there. Not the TC Max.
@@thecapacitator8137Nope in china or chinese vision that front fairing trim is all model Electric controller position .
@@EdsionTian Thanks, I didn't know that.
Sir, this way. ua-cam.com/video/ckds5OpTZ6o/v-deo.html
what cells are in the battery?
LG MJ1
@@thecapacitator8137
aren't they prismatic cells?
👍
How can I remove the power on sound?
You could disconnect the speaker in the alarm unit.
@@thecapacitator8137 you could. BUT the box is tightly sealed. Opening it is going to be difficult and can damage the electronics inside. My solution: stuffed some cotton through the plastic cuts for the speaker. It stoped the speaker from vibrating, thus, no sound! :D If for some reason I need to get the bike serviced, I'll just remove the cotton and it should work fine.
@@thecapacitator8137 - ua-cam.com/users/shortsvFtaZ9CqBBI
@@EdiMCharana Perfect 👍
Too bad I don’t have a place to park and charge it.
If anybody knows how to import one of these cheap to the US let me know. Unfortunately we are stuck with “onyx “ And other over priced hub drive e bike/ mopeds or super SoCo under powered step thru scooters!. I’m dying over here, please help lol
Have a look on Alibaba.
If you're anywhere near BC come to Vancouver, we've got a distributer in Burnaby.
Been arguin g with the mrs over the bike having no ABS and me locking the wheels inthe wet and stacking it., so the faring being made of ABS technically makes her ... well not wrong, just not right.
It's got linked brakes. Just use more rear in the wet. You should be fine.
After stacking it 2x in the mud and@@thecapacitator8137 wondering if i ought to put on different tyres (apparently recommended) - I wanted to see if the left footpeg was supposed to be bent in as some design, as it looked as if it had been cast that way - I picked it up like that and the guy said he had replaced a panel that was scratched. Battery cover takes a few pushes to click. The front wheel is ever so slightly misaligned, so I think this bike I have was dropped on the road a few times - the drift I get with the rear brake is from the misalignment, and steep road camber anyway, I think. At least it's not that heavy, but I don't like having to roll off into the muddy bank and look like an idiot! I'm a bit of a front wheel braker, so the misalignment is even worse for wet when trying to maintain control. Now I'm aware of all this, which I'm saying thanks for, cos of your video, I'm not gonna be tazzing it so fast around the lanes here, and keeping my pushbike for bad weather.
I was a bit sad that you didn't like the bike, so much, but I'm up along the Welsh borders either doing 10 up or 35 down and round. A bit more rough-roading, but minimal traffic, thankfully.
Your roads seem nice, but here - The bike does not have enough presence for safe A roads more than a town junction or two, I think - I'd cycle them np, but on an e-bike I get bulled no matter how loud I swear at them, every journey, without fail..! It's dangerous. I think we have them for different purposes, as its range (20% remaining) is a round trip to see the mrs, and also - at the age of 43 - I've never held a full license, so cars are the enemy afaik :P
Thanks for your reply, mate! It's helped me decide a few things about which I was unsure. I'll keep the bike, but with less than 200 miles from me (coming up to 2k total since 2019), but I think changing the tyres, adding a shade/cover to the dash - and fixing the misaligned wheel , replace that peg and prob clevis assembly, can probably machine one... But yeah - I'm going to be much safer on this bike now.
Idk why it has pillion pegs either ;¬) lol Have a good weekend :)
@@PeterAustin666 If the forks are twisted in the yoke slacken the clamps and twist it straight. Might be worth supporting the weight of the bike with a box or something. Or rock it on to the side stand a bit so minimal weight is on the forks.
I wouldn't bother with new tyres. The standard ones are fine. No road tyre will grip well on mud.
@@thecapacitator8137 thanks for the tips! I've been looking for any marks to suggest someone has done it before - sometimes you can find the telltale lines of someone putting things back just not quite right. Pretty sure its from stacking the bike on its left, handlebars locked left, pushing them on way and the wheel direction the other - cos that's how it was feeling - it's not the road camber being so steep - it's definitely a few degrees skew. Can't complain about having to straighten the handlbars and deal with a bent footpeg, for 1500 quid off the list price tho.
Nowhere near enough range for me, plus I like to repair my own bikes, think I’ll pass for now,
Love it how the big up the E bike still range issues imagine if everyone used e bikes how would a government replace the lost revenue frompetrol. Oh i know lets increase the cost to charge a E bike. So please stop living in cuckoo land they are expensive milk floats.
In this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes.
I sell upgrades for soco bikes , controllers , batteries and motors for Ts , Tc and scooter models also racing brake system upgrades , suspension front and rear feel free to comment if interested , parts are directly sold from China
wow×3000