Some things I would add to the list are not buying shoes after your climbing session. I bought a pair of shoes after my session, but my feet were slightly swollen and more sensitive, so I bought shoes that were too big. Another thing to check is the size of the heel. Make sure that there isn't too much space around the heel otherwise it is difficult to place precise heels. When buying shoes, make sure to strand up in them. They may feel fine when sitting down, but when you put some pressure on it they may be too painful, so make sure to walk around for a couple of minutes and try to put pressure on the toes and try smearing if you can as well to feel what they are like. Finally, for sizing, I found that rockrun has a great sizing guide (not including a link, but you should be able to find it with a search) for lots of shoes and how much they suggest you downsize depending on your climbing style and level. Following that, I was able to pick out my best shoe so far! I spent too much money buying shoes that didn't fit me well, so I hope these additional tips also help others
You were so accurate about getting the shoe size too small because of how the internet keep praising "Smaller Shoe = Better", "It should have no wrinkles even if you bend your toe" But by the end of the day if it hurts when climbing it will discourage you to climb, it's just not right.
"But by the end of the day if it hurts when climbing it will discourage you to climb" That does not seem right as a common place for most boulderers. Not by a long shot.
@@HighGravityDay i think I could have communicated this thought better. My phantoms that I UBER downsized made my feet sore throughout the break-in process and after. The soreness made me climb less because I was HURTING haha.
Enjoyed climbing more and progressed further in my oversized laceups than with 3 other slightly smaller shoes. Getting a new pair of laceups soon. More time getting them on but comfortable for the whole session. 1 thing to note is that leather will break in and change over time, the synthetic materials break in less but are more forgiving. Another thing to note is that there are some places that resole climbing shoes. If you have a good pair that fits well, resole as soon as even the tiniest hope appears
Definitely agree about the downsizing at the start. Grabbing used shoes at an rei or gym is a great option for a first pair. Was fun getting a chance to climb at Rendezvous earlier this week!
My first pair were from Decathlon and i recommend them - they are like rentals, with hard rubber and after a year they have no holes on the toe, i like them bc they are comfy and i dont need agressive shoes on most of the routes. My second pair are solutions and to get them cheap i get to the nearest climbing shop, tried a lot for brands and sizes, then found online used for a few climbing session, second-hand pair. I love them and if u dont have a lot of money thats a good way to get good shoes
I'm a fairly novice climber and I've purchased two pairs of climbing shoes. The first pair was too small, and I couldn't climb more than a short session without being in misery. That was to the extent of losing the toenails on my big toe on both feet. So, I bought another larger pair - half a size below my normal size. They felt ok in the store, but after two climbs at Owens River Gorge, again, my feet hurt too bad to climb. Uncomfortable doesn't come close. I do have wide feet, but I'm going to buy another pair that's larger yet. It may be that I'll be sacrificing some control, but at least I'll be able to climb. I'm still missing toenails! I'd rather be able to climb at all and not be miserable vs. worrying about whether my shoes enable me to be as good as possible. If it were a matter of "these shoes or stop climbing," I'll choose not climbing.
Downsizing really depends on too many things(your feet, the brand, the model, the materials, how much you climb, what kind of bouldering you do most, ..) to make generalised statements about it. I mean, some days I can't wear my tight shoes just because of how hormonal differences change my feet. That's why I have two pairs of Solution in two different sizes and one is brand new and half an EU-size smaller and while they can hurt while standing on the ground, they don't hurt on the wall and I love how they perform on certain kinds of climbs. And I know that will change over the next 4 months of having them. Honestly, the biggest mistake IMO is not knowing what shoe you like and/or not having at least two pairs of a shoe you like in different stages of wear. And that was my biggest mistake: Having to break in a pair of brand new shoes while not having a backup-pair. Guess it's important to remember the end of the lifespan of a pair of shoes is so dramatically different to the beginning, especially in shoes that can change a lot over time(heck, even with the weather) like the ones made from leather. That's also why trying them on in the store is mostly pointless imo. If you want to find a pair that is perfect for you, there is no better way than to actually get a lot of different shoes and break them in and test them, which you just can't do in the store.
@@HighGravityDay YES! Thank you for this comment:) Another factor is my hydration... if my feet are swollen, it can be a worse experience in shoes that normally fit.
My street shoes size is US8/EU41, and during two years of climbing my climbing shoes size starting from 9.5 (at very beginning, I feel wearing 9.5 is "normal" as my street shoes), down to 8.5, then 7.5, and finally 6.5. Now I feel US6.5/EU39 is the most suitable size for me.
Something that wasn't mentioned, is that some shoes come in a low volume (LV) or high volume (HV), as well. So, if you have wide feet you would want to look for the HV versions. This way you don't necessarily have to go to another brand or model of shoes when you find something that has the features you like.
My biggest mistake was downsizing too much. I heard that climbing shoes should be uncomfortable, but i failed to realize that discomfort means i will not want to climb. Better to be too big than to not climb at all.
Yep agree on not to downsize as a beginner, made that mistake as well. I’ve a pairs of ocuns now and they fit very well (slightly discomfort) but I’m able te wear them the entire climbing session (so not have to take them off while belaying or so) I can only recommend this to all lets say beginner climbers like me 😊 you can in some occasions also resole your shoe (saves up some money) and you have “new” shoes that are already settled to your feet
That's a pretty nice video and a important one too ❤ I have just order my new pair The La Sportiva Solution Comp, I ordered them in 42 (street 44) My Tarantula widened quite a bit and were size 43 Looking forward to testing them and feeling the difference 💪🏻
Climbing shoes are one of those things that you absolutely shouldn't buy online. All manufacturers size differently. I have a pair of La Sportiva and another pair of Evolv, both are exactly the same length despite being two numerical sizes apart, because La Sportiva uses regular sizing and Evolv have the downsizing "built in" (ie if you get your street shoe size, they will already be very snug). You just have to give them a try.
It depends really, if the online store has a refund policy, and lets you buy them, try them (without use on the wall, but on foot) and then refund them, I think it's worth it, because I can't get every brand where I live, so I had to order some unparallel shoes ljke this.
@yahoo642 I guess it depends on availability where you live, but I'd much rather just go to a store that carries all the brands I'm considering so I can try on a whole bunch and do a comparison there and then. I'm more than happy to make the hour and a half drive it takes for me to do that.
I mean I used rentals for too long but after that I feel like I've done well when it comes to choosing shoes. My first pair were Mad Rock Weavers, after that after that I got La Sportiva Kubo's and now I'm rocking both a pair of La Sportiva Solution and Scarpa Drago LV. But the good thing was I was able to test all of them on the wall before I had to purchase them. So that would also be the main advice if possible test them on the wall. Obviously it depends on where you live but even stores like Bever (a large chain of stores that focus on nearly all outdoor activities in the Netherlands) have a small wall you can try them on. Also when it comes to rentals I've had 3 very different experiences. Loafers in my main gym, medium aggressive shoes in another gym nearby (more aggressive than a Kubo but less aggressive than solutions or drago LVs). And when I went to ireland i forgot my shoes and got something only describable as hard plastic somewhat shaped like a climbing shoe. It had no edges which would be fine if it was softer but you could probably kick rocks in those and still be fine. So a rounded toe and hard as **** plastic made standing on anything small just out of the question.
I started climbing about 6 months ago, but my first non-rental shoes are some LaSportiva Solutions I picked up for $40. (The original version) When I first bought them I felt like a bit of a clown, because I'm a v5 climber with more aggressive shoes than several of the v10+ guys I know, but I honestly love them. They do give me toe knuckle calluses, but they are soooo much better than rentals.
I bought a new pair yesterday and was so hard to settle on which size to choose. I decided to get the smallest size while still not being painful. I hope they dont stretch out too much and be too big.
Not completely sold on the concept of the beginner shoe. Yes they are cheaper and more comfortable, but they are not that much cheaper, nor are they that much more comfortable. You'll also take a pretty considerable hit to performance by wearing them, meaning that the beginner struggles will be that much harder. You will blow through the easy grades in a couple of months, and then you are suddenly needing a performance shoe. Within 6-12 months you will have bought your first pair of the good shoes, and in the end you will have spent (at least) 1.5x the amount of money you would have spent had you got the good shoes to begin with.
if those are evolv phantoms I'd be curious what the pain profile was pre-stretch. Just bought a couple pairs to test sizing and even going a half size up from my street shoe is both difficult to get onto my foot (each foot takes a bit over a minute or more to get my heel in) and standing is pretty unpleasant though my feet feel like talons (in a good way) while wearing them (and not putting significant pressure on them). Unfortunately I don't have a store nearby that carries phantoms (or really many evolvs at all).
Hey I don’t know if you know but evolv’s sizes are different to European shoe manufacturers where they recommended size for a performance fit is a half size up They generally recommend a full size or even a size and a half for a more comfortable fit
Yeah, those shoes are pretty tight! It takes a few climbing sessions to get used to them! The phantoms are pretty stiff, so the breakin process is long.
now here's the dilemma with downsizing and what not. I've gone through 4 pairs of shoes now? In all of em, well except the first cuz they were beginner evolve shoes, my heel never felt snug. The dilemma is having HV forefoot and LV Heel. I managed to fit in LV Skwamas and Theory's but even then, the Heel was not snug, there was still a pocket of air. I can still heel hook, but I know for sure if the rubber was constantly folding on itself or my skin was rubbing and slipping in the shoe I could heel hook harder. DOES ANYONE KNOW A SHOE THAT HIS TIGHT HEEL FOR FLAT FEET WITH REGULAR TO HIGH VOLUME (HV) TOE BOX/FOREFOOT?
My advice to complete beginners would be, just buy the cheapest shoe without downsizing. You'll destroy that cheap shoe because your footwork will not be good. You'll know when to buy a better shoe in time. Dont rush. You definitely do not need a good shoe as a beginner. It would be a total waste and also painful.
My first pair were from Decathlon and i recommend them - they are like rentals, with hard rubber and after a year they have no holes on the toe, i like them bc they are comfy and i dont need agressive shoes on most of the routes. My second pair are solutions and to get them cheap i get to the nearest climbing shop, tried a lot for brands and sizes, then found online used for a few climbing session, second-hand pair. I love them and if u dont have a lot of money thats a good way to get good shoes
Absolutely agree with not downsizing crazily. Finding the shoes that suits your foot size is wayyyyyy more important than just downsizing
Some things I would add to the list are not buying shoes after your climbing session. I bought a pair of shoes after my session, but my feet were slightly swollen and more sensitive, so I bought shoes that were too big. Another thing to check is the size of the heel. Make sure that there isn't too much space around the heel otherwise it is difficult to place precise heels.
When buying shoes, make sure to strand up in them. They may feel fine when sitting down, but when you put some pressure on it they may be too painful, so make sure to walk around for a couple of minutes and try to put pressure on the toes and try smearing if you can as well to feel what they are like.
Finally, for sizing, I found that rockrun has a great sizing guide (not including a link, but you should be able to find it with a search) for lots of shoes and how much they suggest you downsize depending on your climbing style and level. Following that, I was able to pick out my best shoe so far!
I spent too much money buying shoes that didn't fit me well, so I hope these additional tips also help others
@@adamb788 thank you for the comment! These tips are what I wish I had a few years back. Peace!
You were so accurate about getting the shoe size too small because of how the internet keep praising "Smaller Shoe = Better", "It should have no wrinkles even if you bend your toe"
But by the end of the day if it hurts when climbing it will discourage you to climb, it's just not right.
"But by the end of the day if it hurts when climbing it will discourage you to climb"
That does not seem right as a common place for most boulderers. Not by a long shot.
@@HighGravityDay i think I could have communicated this thought better. My phantoms that I UBER downsized made my feet sore throughout the break-in process and after. The soreness made me climb less because I was HURTING haha.
@@suckatslab Haha don't worry, I was just riffin on our community since most of us seem to enjoy at least some level of pain :'D
@@HighGravityDay we are all masochist lol. I'm like a downsize 2 masochist... downsize 3 is beyond my craziness.
Enjoyed climbing more and progressed further in my oversized laceups than with 3 other slightly smaller shoes. Getting a new pair of laceups soon. More time getting them on but comfortable for the whole session. 1 thing to note is that leather will break in and change over time, the synthetic materials break in less but are more forgiving. Another thing to note is that there are some places that resole climbing shoes. If you have a good pair that fits well, resole as soon as even the tiniest hope appears
Great info and content!! Totally agree and like the angle mentions
Definitely agree about the downsizing at the start. Grabbing used shoes at an rei or gym is a great option for a first pair. Was fun getting a chance to climb at Rendezvous earlier this week!
@@lowaltitudefreesoloist it was awesome meeting you! Stay chalky, friend!
My first pair were from Decathlon and i recommend them - they are like rentals, with hard rubber and after a year they have no holes on the toe, i like them bc they are comfy and i dont need agressive shoes on most of the routes. My second pair are solutions and to get them cheap i get to the nearest climbing shop, tried a lot for brands and sizes, then found online used for a few climbing session, second-hand pair. I love them and if u dont have a lot of money thats a good way to get good shoes
I'm a fairly novice climber and I've purchased two pairs of climbing shoes. The first pair was too small, and I couldn't climb more than a short session without being in misery. That was to the extent of losing the toenails on my big toe on both feet. So, I bought another larger pair - half a size below my normal size. They felt ok in the store, but after two climbs at Owens River Gorge, again, my feet hurt too bad to climb. Uncomfortable doesn't come close. I do have wide feet, but I'm going to buy another pair that's larger yet. It may be that I'll be sacrificing some control, but at least I'll be able to climb. I'm still missing toenails! I'd rather be able to climb at all and not be miserable vs. worrying about whether my shoes enable me to be as good as possible. If it were a matter of "these shoes or stop climbing," I'll choose not climbing.
Downsizing really depends on too many things(your feet, the brand, the model, the materials, how much you climb, what kind of bouldering you do most, ..) to make generalised statements about it. I mean, some days I can't wear my tight shoes just because of how hormonal differences change my feet.
That's why I have two pairs of Solution in two different sizes and one is brand new and half an EU-size smaller and while they can hurt while standing on the ground, they don't hurt on the wall and I love how they perform on certain kinds of climbs. And I know that will change over the next 4 months of having them.
Honestly, the biggest mistake IMO is not knowing what shoe you like and/or not having at least two pairs of a shoe you like in different stages of wear. And that was my biggest mistake: Having to break in a pair of brand new shoes while not having a backup-pair.
Guess it's important to remember the end of the lifespan of a pair of shoes is so dramatically different to the beginning, especially in shoes that can change a lot over time(heck, even with the weather) like the ones made from leather. That's also why trying them on in the store is mostly pointless imo. If you want to find a pair that is perfect for you, there is no better way than to actually get a lot of different shoes and break them in and test them, which you just can't do in the store.
@@HighGravityDay YES! Thank you for this comment:)
Another factor is my hydration... if my feet are swollen, it can be a worse experience in shoes that normally fit.
My street shoes size is US8/EU41, and during two years of climbing my climbing shoes size starting from 9.5 (at very beginning, I feel wearing 9.5 is "normal" as my street shoes), down to 8.5, then 7.5, and finally 6.5. Now I feel US6.5/EU39 is the most suitable size for me.
Something that wasn't mentioned, is that some shoes come in a low volume (LV) or high volume (HV), as well. So, if you have wide feet you would want to look for the HV versions. This way you don't necessarily have to go to another brand or model of shoes when you find something that has the features you like.
My biggest mistake was downsizing too much. I heard that climbing shoes should be uncomfortable, but i failed to realize that discomfort means i will not want to climb. Better to be too big than to not climb at all.
Yep agree on not to downsize as a beginner, made that mistake as well. I’ve a pairs of ocuns now and they fit very well (slightly discomfort) but I’m able te wear them the entire climbing session (so not have to take them off while belaying or so) I can only recommend this to all lets say beginner climbers like me 😊 you can in some occasions also resole your shoe (saves up some money) and you have “new” shoes that are already settled to your feet
That's a pretty nice video and a important one too ❤
I have just order my new pair
The La Sportiva Solution Comp, I ordered them in 42 (street 44)
My Tarantula widened quite a bit and were size 43
Looking forward to testing them and feeling the difference 💪🏻
Climbing shoes are one of those things that you absolutely shouldn't buy online. All manufacturers size differently. I have a pair of La Sportiva and another pair of Evolv, both are exactly the same length despite being two numerical sizes apart, because La Sportiva uses regular sizing and Evolv have the downsizing "built in" (ie if you get your street shoe size, they will already be very snug). You just have to give them a try.
It depends really, if the online store has a refund policy, and lets you buy them, try them (without use on the wall, but on foot) and then refund them, I think it's worth it, because I can't get every brand where I live, so I had to order some unparallel shoes ljke this.
@yahoo642 I guess it depends on availability where you live, but I'd much rather just go to a store that carries all the brands I'm considering so I can try on a whole bunch and do a comparison there and then. I'm more than happy to make the hour and a half drive it takes for me to do that.
tenaya mastia for me! They are good for wider feet. Soft and aggressive. Good for indoor bouldering!
@@R0bDanger0us good to hear they work for wider feet!
I mean I used rentals for too long but after that I feel like I've done well when it comes to choosing shoes. My first pair were Mad Rock Weavers, after that after that I got La Sportiva Kubo's and now I'm rocking both a pair of La Sportiva Solution and Scarpa Drago LV. But the good thing was I was able to test all of them on the wall before I had to purchase them. So that would also be the main advice if possible test them on the wall. Obviously it depends on where you live but even stores like Bever (a large chain of stores that focus on nearly all outdoor activities in the Netherlands) have a small wall you can try them on.
Also when it comes to rentals I've had 3 very different experiences. Loafers in my main gym, medium aggressive shoes in another gym nearby (more aggressive than a Kubo but less aggressive than solutions or drago LVs). And when I went to ireland i forgot my shoes and got something only describable as hard plastic somewhat shaped like a climbing shoe. It had no edges which would be fine if it was softer but you could probably kick rocks in those and still be fine. So a rounded toe and hard as **** plastic made standing on anything small just out of the question.
My shoes are too big which makes harder climbs quite difficult sometimes but I think it's taught me alot about technique and balance
I started with a Butora shoe on sale for $40. I’d advise beginners to be patient and look around for deals.
Deals are the best! I’ve gotten some great shoes on sale.
I started climbing about 6 months ago, but my first non-rental shoes are some LaSportiva Solutions I picked up for $40. (The original version)
When I first bought them I felt like a bit of a clown, because I'm a v5 climber with more aggressive shoes than several of the v10+ guys I know, but I honestly love them. They do give me toe knuckle calluses, but they are soooo much better than rentals.
I bought a new pair yesterday and was so hard to settle on which size to choose. I decided to get the smallest size while still not being painful. I hope they dont stretch out too much and be too big.
It's a tough call for sure!
Not completely sold on the concept of the beginner shoe.
Yes they are cheaper and more comfortable, but they are not that much cheaper, nor are they that much more comfortable. You'll also take a pretty considerable hit to performance by wearing them, meaning that the beginner struggles will be that much harder.
You will blow through the easy grades in a couple of months, and then you are suddenly needing a performance shoe. Within 6-12 months you will have bought your first pair of the good shoes, and in the end you will have spent (at least) 1.5x the amount of money you would have spent had you got the good shoes to begin with.
if those are evolv phantoms I'd be curious what the pain profile was pre-stretch. Just bought a couple pairs to test sizing and even going a half size up from my street shoe is both difficult to get onto my foot (each foot takes a bit over a minute or more to get my heel in) and standing is pretty unpleasant though my feet feel like talons (in a good way) while wearing them (and not putting significant pressure on them). Unfortunately I don't have a store nearby that carries phantoms (or really many evolvs at all).
Hey I don’t know if you know but evolv’s sizes are different to European shoe manufacturers where they recommended size for a performance fit is a half size up
They generally recommend a full size or even a size and a half for a more comfortable fit
Yeah, those shoes are pretty tight! It takes a few climbing sessions to get used to them! The phantoms are pretty stiff, so the breakin process is long.
now here's the dilemma with downsizing and what not. I've gone through 4 pairs of shoes now? In all of em, well except the first cuz they were beginner evolve shoes, my heel never felt snug. The dilemma is having HV forefoot and LV Heel. I managed to fit in LV Skwamas and Theory's but even then, the Heel was not snug, there was still a pocket of air. I can still heel hook, but I know for sure if the rubber was constantly folding on itself or my skin was rubbing and slipping in the shoe I could heel hook harder.
DOES ANYONE KNOW A SHOE THAT HIS TIGHT HEEL FOR FLAT FEET WITH REGULAR TO HIGH VOLUME (HV) TOE BOX/FOREFOOT?
My advice to complete beginners would be, just buy the cheapest shoe without downsizing. You'll destroy that cheap shoe because your footwork will not be good. You'll know when to buy a better shoe in time. Dont rush. You definitely do not need a good shoe as a beginner. It would be a total waste and also painful.
My first pair were from Decathlon and i recommend them - they are like rentals, with hard rubber and after a year they have no holes on the toe, i like them bc they are comfy and i dont need agressive shoes on most of the routes. My second pair are solutions and to get them cheap i get to the nearest climbing shop, tried a lot for brands and sizes, then found online used for a few climbing session, second-hand pair. I love them and if u dont have a lot of money thats a good way to get good shoes