Applying an Antique Finish to Leather
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- Chuck Dorsett antiques his leather project with Fiebing’s Antique Finish (50-1930), available from Weaver Leathercraft.
Fiebing’s Antique Finish: www.weaverleat... - Навчання та стиль
"I'm going to put on some gloves, because I'm made of leather too and I will antique just as nicely as any veg tan strap"... I almost died laughing, funniest thing I've heard in a long while.
I love your channel, everything you could possibly need to learn is here, brilliant and thank you Chuck
Much easier than first thought. Thank's Chuck. And you are funny too...
This gentleman here loves what he does ! Thank y’all for sharing , I learned a lot from this !!!
Manny, glad to hear it! Thanks for the comment.
Easier than I thought... Thanks Chuck!
"I'm made out of leather too" made me laugh so hard. Thanks for all of your tutorials. I'm just starting out and you've been such a huge help. I don't even watch any how to videos if it's not you.
I love your work
Thanks Chuck! I was afraid that antiquing would leave my tan projects too dark; thanks for this demo!
I have found that it's pretty easy to remove too much antique if you use a rag. Some people suggest a ruler wrapped in your rag. I have personally found a foam knock down knife for drywall works fantastic for this.
Well that,s much easier than other ways I seen it done. No need for resist and other steps. Well done. Now I can open up my new jar of antique and try it w/o all the confusion.
You're awesome as usual... I just want to give my plain, flat, featureless bible leather to look antiqued -- I don't often tool it much (the bumpers are about it, usually), so I can't rely on "topography" like I could a tooled belt etc... I guess the best thing might be just to work with a couple of colors of brown oil dye and a couple diluted versions of each for 2 colors, 4 shades, and blot it on with a rolled up rag or something. I just don't see much on antiquing on plain, flat veg.
Hi Chuck. I did a test piece. Stamped dyed pro dye red, then neutral antique and black pro dye. Turned out beautiful. I decided to do another sample test (I love experimenting) and I used a bit less black pro dye, didn't turn out the same. I'm thinking maybe my stamping on the second test wasn't deep enough, maybe. I'm pretty sure..... Your videos are awesome! Happy New Year from Sydney Australia ❤️
Thank you so much, George! Happy New Year to you as well!
I'm thinking too, that maybe the second test wasn't stamped as deep, that affects how the antique finish lays on the project.
Chuck, your on top of your game as always. Wish you lived next door....ha Jack kevin
l antique using Kiwi Cream shine and nourish in a tube. Works well with the brown colors l use it for.
Before applying the Antique Finish, should some type of resist be used to avoid darkening the dyed piece too much?
Hello Tom. We recommend using Bee Natural Leathercare's RTC Sheridan Resist & Finish (www.weaverleathersupply.com/search/Search/50-1968). This should be applied carefully to avoid it sinking into the impressions should there be stamping, tooling or creases in the leather. Thank you for your question!
I was wondering what you do with your rags after each project? I know that to use a rag for this it shouldn't have any dyes in it, but it would be wonderful if there was some way to reuse or repurpose the rags.
Great video, if you've painted part of your project can u apply the antiquing and later dye still without discoloring your project?
Hello,
Great question!
Any time you add dye, antiquing or even topcoat to any project, the color is bound to change at least a little. The best process that we have found to keep this to a minimum is dye first, add a coat or two of a resist and then hit it with an antique finish. The resist will keep the color change to a minimum but still allow the antique to sink nicely into the impressions. Ideally the last step would be to paint with acrylic paints. For your case where part of the project is already painted, if you want to dye the rest of it you can; just do so carefully and don’t go over your painted part as this will distort the paint color.
Weaver Leathercraft thank you for ur quick response will do!
Can you refer me to the tutorial you mentioned on how to do the scale stamping, please?
ua-cam.com/video/6IZ3zrdoxOg/v-deo.html&lc=z12uyrsrjvqrudque22ywdlxznb3zzhjp04 Please follow the link above. Thank you!
Tom Anderson ua-cam.com/video/31CqelRgm7M/v-deo.html
Nice piece of work! May I know if I can do that with my craft japan gloss finish followed by fiebang's antique finish?
Fong Alan, thanks for asking! It shouldn’t be a problem, but I’m not familiar with the Japan Gloss. The Antique is a bit strong and may defeat a water based top coat, but other than that it should be fine with a good dry time on the gloss before adding the Antique. I hope this helps!
Hello Chuck! I love your videos, you do an excellent job explaining everything. Now, I have a question that I hope you can answer. If I use a water based dye on tooled leather, would antique still work well for that? Or should I look into getting pro dye for use with antique?
Hi CJ,
Yes, you can use antique finish with water based dye!
What happens when you leave these gel antiques, stains, dyes out in freezing temperatures? Do they really get ruined? Is there any way to save them?
I know which antique you used, but which leather and dye did you use to get that beautiful red ?
Hi there,
The leather is a natural veg tan and the dye is Fiebing's Pro Dye in Red! Hope that helps
Thank you 😊
I notice some people oil it before tan kote and antiquing
Is it possible to use antique finisher over an acrylic paint, or should you use an oil dye? Thank you in advance, love your videos!
Joanna, that's a great question. I have never tried an antique over an acrylic paint, but it should work - unless I’m missing some kind of a reaction between the two. Just make sure the paint has ample time to dry. In my opinion, oil dye is the best, but there are colors I just can’t reach. If you try it, please let us know how it goes. Thanks for the comment!
Antique over leather paint works pretty well--but it darkens the paint colour considerably. But it's a great way to bring the colour into the back ground and not pop so severely. I like the look.
QUESTION: I want to do a red leather cover for my father’s kindle. I am putting a Sheridan leaf design in two of the corners. I want to do an antique to finish around the edges so that it fades from a medium red in the center to a dark red around the edges, but I want the designs to stand out with the same tone as the center (or even lighter). Is there a video I can watch that would help me accomplish this or do you have any suggestions? I am new to leather crafting, but pick things up very quickly. Thank you for your help ❤️ I love watching your videos and they have hhelped me tremendously.
Thank you for your comment, we're so glad the videos have been helpful!
I want to make I'm reading your question correctly, you would want the tooled pattern to be a bright, lighter red versus the darker color an antique finish would normally make it?
Yes. I wasn’t sure if I was coming across correctly. That is exactly right but I want to work at the background to be dark along with the edges of the project. Should I use a resist on the raised part? Or can you suggest a different technique? If I do need to use a resist, is there one that you recommend? Thank you again :-)
Hi there,
Below is the answer I got from Chuck:
That sounds beautiful! I may suggest using our Neutral Antique with the Angelus acrylic paints. This will give you some serious control over the colors and it can be applied with a simple paint brush for a fade effect. Mix the paints in several shades of red and then add it to the neutral. If applied while wet then you can get it to fade from a lighter red to the darker and it will react just like the standard antiques. The neutral antique is pretty new to us and I haven’t tried this yet, so, a little experimenting may be in order (I can’t wait to try it since you mentioned it!). You could go with the Angelus alone, mix several shades from lighter to darker, but, I think the neutral may be the best route. It just seems like you would have more control and you would get the antique effect as opposed a solid color. Let me know if you experiment with it!
Thank you so much! I greatly appreciate your help. I will definitely try this technique several times before I apply it to my project. Thank you so much.
Thank you again! - Cassandra
Hey chuck? Not sure what that was. When I wrote to you...with that name before mine? Jack???.
did you put a top coat or a resist on the scale piece before you applied the fiebings antique gel?
Hi Leanne,
I did not apply a resist to this one, I wanted the antique to also darken the leather a bit so I applied the antique directly on top of the dye.
Hey Chuck! I've been having an issue after I apply the antiquing (and letting it dry well) with the antiquing color rubbing off when I apply the Leather Balm as a top coat. Is there something I'm doing wrong or is that just natural? Perhaps I should try to have it darker then I'd like before adding the leather Balm?
Thanks!!
Hi Heather,
Great question! It is normal for some of the antique finish to rub off when you are buffing the leather. If it's taking off too much color for your liking you may want to try a different top coat. We would suggest the Bee Natural Sheridan Resist and Finish as an option: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/50-1966/bee-natural-rtc/pr_27364/cp_/shop-now/leather-care/dyes-paints-finishes/top-coat
You can check out this video that shows Chuck applying the Leather Balm and you can see the color does change a little bit: ua-cam.com/video/31CqelRgm7M/v-deo.html
Hope this helps, let us know if you have additional questions!
@@WeaverLeatherSupply thanks! one other question on the leather balm....after I have applied it is there a recommended way to condition it as time goes on? I wonder if the waxy coating would prevent conditioners from getting to the leather and if they did, would the dye become wet/splotchy looking?
is it all from just cow leather
I have tried applying this antique to both natural veg leather and dyed veg leather; both I stamped with basket-weave. The antique on the natural looks great, but on the leather I have dyed, the antique in the impressions of my basket-weave has a dusty blue look. Do you have any idea why it does this?
I think it’s the dye and not the antique. The standard “Leather Dye” is bad about that. From what the folks at Fiebing’s tell me this is called “bronzing” and it’s the result of the actual color mix in the dye (some metallic content in the base). I have only had this happen with the basic “Leather Dye” and haven’t had the problem with the Pro Dye. Clean the area with some basic alcohol and that should remove the metallic/bluish tint. Let me know if this helps!
@@WeaverLeatherSupply unfortunately, the alcohol didn't work. Big bummer. I love the antiqued effect. I bought both the antique paste and pro dye from you all so I don't know why it won't work.😞
Did you put another coat of red dye on after the antiquing? Is that what is meant by a "top coat"?
Hi Harry,
I added a top coat using Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax. It adds a nice sheen to the top of the leather and keeps the dye from rubbing off. You can check out how I apply it in this video: ua-cam.com/video/_bIuO2Fqs7k/v-deo.html
Atom wax after the antique??
Hey Chuck, Just wondering if you dyed the leather first then did the stamping? I've noticed if I try to dye after adding my makers mark to a product, then the dye doesn't seem to penetrate into where the mark has gone? Seems to be because the leather is more compact there and thus doesn't accept the dye as well.
Hi Dale,
You have it exactly right. The leather is getting burnished and, like you said, the top grain is getting compacted so it’s resisting the dye. You can stamp after dying, but, wetting the leather is an issue if water is needed and I always fear the vertical edges, wall (not sure what to call that) of the stamp may push through the dye if it hasn’t wicked in well. If it’s not a really large makers stamp and it’s not an extremely deep impression then neither may be an issue. A little experimenting may be in order to see just what works best for your stamp. It’s not a great answer but I hope it does help.
Thanks so much Chuck!
You're welcome!
If I don't plan on dying the leather and its a veg tan color and I tooled a pattern on it, what do I put on before I put the antique finish on? What do I put on after the antique finish?
Hi Denise,
If you want the antique to just sink into the tooled areas and not color the rest of the leather you can put a coat of RTC on the leather before applying antique. It will color the leather a little bit but for the most part it will just sink into the tooled areas. After antique you'll want to put a top coat on the leather, any top coat of your choice will work, depending on if you want a shiny or matte finish.
What apply on padding dye or pigment
What bevel tool was used on the scales?
Hi there, it was a smooth bevel! We will link it here for you: www.weaverleathersupply.com/products/beveler-stamping-tool?variant=40943130607756
Why does my antique chip off after I put on the top coat?
Hi Mahonri,
I'm not sure what to tell you. I would say the Tan-Kote is what’s peeling and not the antique. I’ve never had an antique peel, but, top coats can be notorious for it if applied too heavy or multiple coats applied before the previous has had a chance to dry completely. Maybe try a different top coat or make sure your antique has had ample drying time before adding a thin layer of tan kote. Hope that helps
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Thank you for taking the time to answer my question. Yes, that helps. I'll try putting on two thin layers of Tan kote next time. If that doesn't work i'll try a different finish. Thanks again!
@@ghoststephens You're welcome! Hope that works for you!
Howdy partner
Can you do a vid with using a resist before using an antique
Thanks for the suggestion!