Hi, I thought I’d mention that Walmart has rectangular Pyrex dish that has a plastic lid that is almost perfect for dip dyeing. The lid doesn’t seal well so it’s not all that good for storage if you have to move it but I just transfer my dyes back into my containers. I use Tostitos salsa jars for holding dyes so that if I buy a quart bottle of pro dye, I can dilute it with alcohol in the Tostitos jars and leave the dye in the bottle that is left alone. I have been using an idea from another leather guy in that I dye and then glue a piece of veg tan on the lid and I can see the natural result of the dye.
Just a thought..... How about putting an incontinence bed sheet on your table top. They are about 3 feet square, are waterproof (obviously....!), yet they have an absorbent top sheet that will soak up any spillage. I am a nurse by trade and one of these might just find its way into my stash......! Excellent tutorial again, many thanks.....!
I had a question about the order of processes. Dye first or punch holes first? Bevel first? Burnish first? You answered the question about punching holes with oil dye but what about dyes with other bases? Is there a good rule of thumb to follow? What are the effects of reversing the process order? Thank you for informative and entertaining videos. Weaver has become my primary source of supplies.
Hi Jim, If possible, punch the holes first and then dye, that way the dye hits those punched out holes too. For your second question: Bevel first and then burnish, that way your entire rounded edge has a nice smooth finish. Hope that helps - thanks so much for watching!
FYI, I have been experimenting with using the fiber reactive dyes from dharma trading company on veg tan leather and i can get a nearly full penetration on 8oz leather. Meaning the color changes on the inside the leather as well. Takes longer and you are tub dying it, but with that deep penetration you are basically guaranteed to not see raw leather color from scratches or shallow cuts.
HI greeting from Berlin Germany, first i wanna thank you for your videos..The Quality That you Have For Getting The Point Across Is SUPERB! Question: what do you suggest for sealing my leather work after dyeing it with oil dye ..for make it at list a little water proof. i tried Resoline but it washed away almost all my painted color parts. i use acryl paint like angelus.. Thank you so much in advance
Hello! Thank you for taking the time to watch one of our videos. We would recommend experimenting with our Snow Proof Water and Stain Protector (www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/8091/001/49). This is an aerosol which will eliminate having to buff the item and should help keep on the color. We would love to hear back about how this worked for you! Have a wonderful day!
Always enjoy your videos, Chuck. I was wondering if you have any ideas for fixing a streaky dye job. I started dyeing with a dauber on a project that was too big, and the streaks are noticeable. Can I just go back darker to even them out or will the streaks continue getting darker? I'm using Fiebing's Pro dye (Saddle Tan). I subsequently bought some 4 inch foam brushes to alleviate streaking. I just don't want to scrap this project and don't want to dye it black. Thanks!
Hey! Your videos are the most informative tutorials on the internet when it comes to leather dyeing! Question: what kind of leather are you using? I’m using veg-tanned tooling leather, and my pieces are getting WAY darker than yours (even when diluting dye:reducer 1:3) It’s also getting really stiff, even though I’m using pro dye. I’m making watch straps, so I’m trying to get a softer feeling final product. Do you have any thoughts on what I might be doing wrong?
Hello, Every tannery's recipe for veg tanned leather varies a little bit depending on the processes and type of vegetable agents they use to tan the leather. This will cause dye colors to come out a little bit differently on each type of leather. With Hermann Oak® or Weaver Select Tooling sides, which is what we use in most of the videos, the dye colors seem to be very true. So, using the dye reducer is a good idea to get the color that you desire, the problem with that, however, is that dye reducer is basically just alcohol and that added alcohol content is what is making the leather stiffer. I’d recommend giving the Weaver Select or Hermann Oak® tooling leather a try and see if that doesn’t make your colors more consistent. Hope this helps!
Hi Ekramy, Yes, dip dying with water based dyes should work as well since it will get you more even and consistent coverage compared to a sponge or dauber. One thing to remember is your dyed piece of leather's quality will only be as good as the quality of veg tanned leather you start with.
Idea for another video: Sooo... what if I was aiming at a project that needs a transition in color? So, the "consistency" of an oil dye is actually a bad thing for me - ie, even if I go over my project several times, the color will not darken for me. Is that when you would suggest the leather (pigment+alcohol) dye as opposed to the Pro (oil+alcohol) dye?
Hi there, You'll probably have to go with an airbrush for something like this. Start with a lighter color dye and then go darker as you make your transitions.
Hi there, You can but it’s not preferable and it will tend to increase some of the issues alcohol dye can have. Particularly rub-off, darkening, and stiffness. Hope this helps!
Chuck & Team, have you tried using bleach (chlorine) or baking soda to color your leathers? And besides the negatives of working with chemicals, could you perhaps speak to the costs of doing so?
Hello, Those are two options I haven’t thought about using! I may be a bit hesitant to introduce the two simply because there are so many options available in the way of dyes, antiques, paints, top coats…, but, that is a very interesting idea.
It's not my original idea, the credit goes to ua-cam.com/video/wA3ia34Hllk/v-deo.html (bleach) and ua-cam.com/video/rG3kaiAtHps/v-deo.html (baking soda). Both of which I'm more curious about than interested in testing. If true, it seems like each can yield time-controlled variations of brown shades. The biggest benefit could be affordability and availability. I'm not sure about the full extent of the negatives, since I've never tried it. Does it dry out the leather or damage its structural integrity? Does the reaction cause side effects when the leather encounters metal or other substances? Does it irritate the skin after the process is complete, or yield a foul/poisonous odor? I was hoping you might know, but I'll pocket it for a video I will probably never create myself.
Hi there, It's alcohol based but with an oil based dye stuff. Check out the video below where I explain this a bit more. Hope that clears it up for you! ua-cam.com/video/zokhe6oxhjc/v-deo.html
Thanks Chuck! I have a belt for my son. I have it all tooled, and holes punched. Is dip dye the way to go? I was thinking of using a drip tray for my deck flower boxes to dip. Thanks!
Hi Pamela, Normally we would say definitely dip-dye because it will give you the most even coverage but for a belt its best to not get dye on the back to reduce the risk of rub off. We would recommend using a dauber to put the dye on and then lightly go over the edges also. You can even use painters tape on the back of the belt if you feel its necessary. Finish with a top coat on the front and the edges to seal all the dye in. Hope that helps!
Thanks for the great video... can you give some tips to me about dyeing a large piece of leather. approx 2x3 ft. I just finished tanning my first piece of bark tan deer hide,... feels great, light brown, and i treated it with neatsfoot oil and some beeswax. The color of the leather is inconsistent tho, and I am hoping to dye the whole thing a nice chocolate brown.
Hi there~ I am looking to dye a 100% genuine lambs leather jacket from light pastel pink to a light brown and am wondering if you have any tips/videos on how to dye a larger item like a jacket. I am also in California where we cannot use oil based dyes. Can you recommend ALL of the products/tools that I will need to purchase as well? Thanks so much! Love your video.
Hi Nickole, Unfortunately, I don't have much experience with this and I definitely don't want to give you incorrect advice. As far as dye goes I would say the Fiebing's Low VOC or Fiebing's Leathercolors dye are going to be your best bet. I would definitely do some more research before attempting it. Sorry I don't have a better answer for you!
Hi Dean, Thanks for asking! In most of our project videos I dye and you can get a quick look at how to dye, but, between here and there try this. Use only the Fiebing’s Pro Dye and go one of two ways with it. Look for one of the videos for “dip dyeing” for larger projects but for smaller projects you can use a dauber. With these make a pass with the dauber and get as much coverage as possible in the first pass but without a big soaking (you’ll get the feel quickly). Go back over it with another coat or two immediately and then wipe the excess off with a cotton-ish rag. Dye the edges and back after the front but be careful not to let the front lay in a pool of dye when you turn it over (turn it over on an unused part of your paper). Let it dry for about 2 hours +/- and then add a top coat. This will really add some richness to the color and it will give a glossy (your call on how much gloss) finish that makes it look very finished and professional. I would start with the Leather Balm. You just use a dauber to put it on and buff it off and it’s beautiful. I hope this helps!
I want to achieve a red just like that sample you showed. That kinda dark red but still vibrant as can be. So would red pro dye and a topcoat achieve that or does it require dark red leather dye?
The red is just a Red Pro Dye with a Fiebing's Leather Balm top coat on natural leather. Every hide is a little bit different but as long as you have a quality natural veg tan then the dye should go on evenly and get good coverage.
Great tutorials! I am looking to dye handles of a basket that are already white leather. Will the light brown oil dye work on these if I pretreat the leather?
Hi Lauren, Thank you for watching! We would recommend using a deglazer first to remove any top coat and to make sure the dye can penetrate and then yes, the oil dye should work pretty well!
Hi guys, got one question; If I want to delute oil dye for less rich color should I do that with oil or alcohol? Also is Oil dye same as stain? Thanks. P.S. Love your channel, made me a better leatherworker. Thumbs up for great work!
Thank you for your comment. We are so glad we can help. Yes, you can dilute the Pro Dye with denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol (my preference) and both can be found at any pharmacy; however, it takes a good bit of the alcohol to start getting the dye to thin out. You can thin dye down to roughly a stain, but a stain is a bit different in make-up. Most folks go with a stain more for the available colors and it will allow the natural color of the leather, blemishes and range marks to show through. This gives each project or panel a completely unique look. Experiment a little with thinning and see if this gets the look you want.
Is the leather balm safe for painted leather? And once I apply the balm do I still need to also apply the acrylic sealer on the paint or will it be one and done?
Hi Stephen, This is an excellent question. The Leather Balm will be fine over paint as long as the paint has ample time to dry (maybe 24 hours +/-). In all honesty, I tend to use a spray-on (Saddle-Lac, but, there are 2 tricks to using it) when something is painted just so I don’t have to rub or buff, but, the dry time is critical. As a finish the Saddle-Lac will give the entire piece a consistent gloss, but, the Leather Balm may matte a little over the paint, so, an acrylic finish may be best over the paint and the Balm over everything. I haven’t tried this, so, I may suggest a test before going to the final piece.
I have a question, I made a small holster I cut and dyed and after I wet molded the holster for the gun, the saddle tan dye I used came out very blotchy. It looked great before the molding. I used Fieblings regular dye. Idk if that’s a common issue or maybe I did something wrong.
Question for anybody with experience: How do I prevent the dye from getting on the sides or flesh side of the leather? For instance, if I'm making a sheath and don't want the inside to be dyed. Or does it matter? Should I just dye the entire piece? All suggestions and comments welcome as I have zero experience.
James, plastic and glass are fine for storing dye. Waste is always an issue, but if you buy a small funnel (kitchen type) then pouring it back into the bottle is easy and mess free. I tend to store in the bottles just because the Tupperware lids aren’t as solid as I would like and the bottles are sturdy and the caps close tight. A paper towel (and some Deglazer if you wish) makes cleanup quick and easy for both glass and plastic. Thanks for watching and for the comment!
Is there a way to effectly dye one side of the leather one color and the other side another color without the dye bleeding through to the other side? I'd tried this a couple times, thinking I was lite on the dye use and it still bleed through
Hi Jason, I would recommend lining the piece. That way you can dye the two pieces their individual colors and then glue them together. Hope that helps!
Hello, If you’re using oil dye the only negative thing that will happen if you leave the leather in the dye longer is that it will soak in more dye thus using more than really needed and drying time will be much longer. If you are using an alcohol dye, the longer it’s in the dye the darker the leather will get and the more dye that gets soaked in the harder the leather will become then once dry. Hope this helps!
Do I need to put anything in my dye to prevent the purple from turning gold or bronze? I used Fiebings purple dye on two separate pieces and they both turned gold / bronze. The pieces had been washed thoroughly and I didn't use a lot but they still changed color.
Hi Lily. As I do for all my leather working, I would recommend using Fiebing's Professional Oil Dye. Since this dye has an oil based dye agent instead of powder, the color soaks into the leather and doesn’t leave a powder residue on the grain when dried. This is great because there is a lot less chance of color transfer.
Just a question because it seemed like with corters video that they dyed the leather and then used liquid mink oil and nothing else? Wouldn't that make the dye bleed or rub off? Or did they use a finish/sealer that I didn't notice?
Hi Michael, You would need to check with Corter Leather for sure on whether or not they added a top coat but we would recommend adding some sort of top coat because mink oil will not add any kind of sealant. Hope that helps!
Hi there, Yes, you can mix oil dyes for a custom color. Fiebing's does sell a dye reducer that works for oil dyes and regular leather dye, you can check it out here: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/50-2049/fiebings-leather-dye-reducer/pr_27341
Hi there, Deglazer will remove some of the dye but dye will penetrate the leather and unfortunately once it's dyed it's going to be that color. You can make it darker but you probably won't be able to go lighter. Hope that helps
When I dip dye my 8-9oz vegtan using pro dye the edges soak up more dye and are always darker resulting in a 1/4 inch dark border on my pieces. I have tried several different methods and nothing works. What am I doing wrong?
HI there! I'm sorry you're having trouble with this, I would try adding a very light coat of neatsfoot oil over the entire surface of the leather and let it sit for about 30 minutes before dyeing and see if that helps the dye soak in more evenly. I would start with a very light coat and experiment with that, you can always go heavier on the oil if the light coat doesn't seem to make a difference.
Hi Daniel, The dip dyeing method would work to dye the gloves, however going from brown to blue you may want to test a piece first because the blue may not cover up the brown and it could turn into a different shade than what you were going for. If you don't want to dye the inside of the gloves to prevent rub off I may suggest using a wool dauber to dye. Hope this helps!
Hello. We would advise to buff the back with a rag, add top coat or finish and recommend using an oil dye to eliminate the higher risk of bleeding out. These techniques should all help with bleeding! Thank you!
I am kinda confused. I love your channel , but you still talk about how bad alcohol dyes are and how great oil dyes are. But this is quote from Fiebing's Professional Dye product info" "An improved version of our traditional leather dye. Professional Oil Dye is also an ALCOHOL based dye created specifically for natural strap leather, vegetable tanned leather and bag & case leather. Excellent coverage and superior colorfastness." . So where is the major difference ?
Zdenek, while both dyes are alcohol carriers, the dye base of the Pro Dye is oil while the dye base of the traditional Leather Dye is powder. Let us know if you have any more questions.
hello weaver, i've tried deep dye in my strap, and atom wax coating, lookin great, however when i'm used the strap, colors stick in to my hand, whats wrong with my metode. thx for ure reply. regards.
Hi Nurron, One thing to try is, let your dye dry for 24 hours and then take a clean cloth and buff away any pigment that may be left on the surface of the leather. You can then apply your Leather Balm. We would also recommend using Fiebing's Pro Dye if you aren't already as it does not leave the powdery pigment behind once the dye has dried. Hope this helps!
@@Nurronshodiqin If the Leather Balm isn't working for you then yes, you could try a different kind of top coat like resolene or Bee Natural RTC. Check out the video below for a look at some different top coats: ua-cam.com/video/Ff-SVFhhJjc/v-deo.html
Hi Mackenzie, We would recommend either the Fiebing's Low VOC dye or the Fiebing's Leather Colors dye. www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/55886/001/123 www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/55892/001/123
So i used eco-flo oil dye on some 4oz oil tanned leather (cost me $50 for 10sq ft) 3 days ago and for whatever reason it keeps rubbing off on my hands and my clothes every time i handle it. the leather is good quality though, i've bent it as far as it goes in both directions with no cracks or wrinkles whatsoever after bending it so my question is: am i using a bad brand/dye? Or Is there something I'm missing or didn't do that will keep it from rubbing off on my hands? Will a top coat cure my problem? If so what would be your recommendation? It is a messenger bag/purse so it still needs to maintain some semblance of malleability. Its supposed to be for my girlfriend for valentines day but I can't in good conscience give it to her knowing its going to stain her clothes and anything else she owns that it touches.
Jeremy, I hate it that you’re having trouble with a gift with a due date. I think the dye is the problem. Water-based and alcohol dyes are both notorious for rub-off. A top coat will help and may take care of the problem. First off, I would clean the leather, front, sides and edges, as best I can. A rag with a small oil content (Neatsfoot is good) or just lightly moist with water works nicely to remove excess dye left on the surface. Coat this with a Leather Balm, or any finish that you like and again, front, sides and edges. This may take care of the rub-off so you can present her with it, but, I would clean (front, sides, back) several times over the next few days and add some Leather Balm again if need be. In the future I would suggest using a Pro Dye (the only dye I use) and a Leather Balm. The Pro Dye wicks in pretty deep and leaves almost nothing on the surface, and, the Leather Balm is a wax based top coat that will give you a low gloss finish and seals pretty nicely. I hope this helps in the short term and long term. Good luck!
@Matthew M You should buff the leather a lot especially if the dye is alcohol based. After the buffing got rid of all the excess pigment on the top and gave it a nice shine you can use a light oil to make the leather softer ( and darken it a bit). Then you have to seal it with some kind of wax of your choice to protect the color and avoid some minimal bleeding.
Thank so Much for your quick replay i will try ti find this item hier in Germany but maybe i want find it hier in Berlin do you Think i can use tan kote or super sheen if i can t find the aerosol or maybe sometging else? Thank you again for your super istructive videos ( :
You are welcome! A super sheen could possibly work. We would recommend experimenting on a small piece of leather before taking on en entire project. Another great option would be our Gard-More Water and Stain Repellent (www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/8314/001/49)
thank you again ,,i followed your suggestion and i just buy the snow proof from the US.. i get to wait longer for the product to rich me but at list i gonna have a good product soon. ( :
HI again,I just got from the US the snow proof that you suggested for sealing my leather paint work with Angelus acrylic paint., but what i forgot to ask you is: wen my paint job is ready i usually put some tan kote on it ..do you think can i first put the tan kote than Neatfoot oil and than the snow proof?...or shell I put first the neatfoot oil than the Tan kote and than the Snow Proof. i am just confuse about which product goes first.. and if i can put the snow proof on top the neatfoot oil and the tan kote. sorry for my poor English i hope i could explain my self.. Thank you in advance and for the tips you gave me earlier. ( :
Hello! The Tan Kote may prevent the Neatsfoot from absorbing completely and would be a bit concerned the oil may affect the paint. If we were experimenting, we would lay in a light coat of Neatsfoot first, add the Tan Kote next and, when completely dry, go to the Snow Paste. If possible we would recommend taking a piece of scrap and testing this with several combinations. When you have the chance to test combinations you always learn tricks outside of the project you're working on but also start to get some confidence, and practice, before you go to the actual project. Thank you for your question and good luck!
Hi Kimberly! Truth be told, I am not the best source for details on the airbrush. I’ve used it, but it’s not my primary source for dye and finish. It is the best for both and I will be up to speed soon, so, if you have a chance there are a number of top notch videos out there from folks who really know how to make the airbrush perform.
Hi Amy. Yes, you can use water-based dyes, but the results could be a streaky, inconsistent look. Oil dyes which will have a consistent color throughout. Thanks for watching!
I have had some success with dip dyeing with water based dyes, but like Chuck said very inconsistent however. It's either too dark, streaky, never used an oil dye just picked some up. To try on my armor. Water based dyes are I guess reacting with the sweat that I produce while fighting. ( It's allot) And it's turning it brownish, almost like an antique get the color I'm using is very ( green). Looks good in a medieval way lol. That's my experience with water based dyes hope it helps you.
Short, sweet, and to the point video. Very informative. Although I took a shot every time you said dye and I’m now I regret everything
This guy Chuck is a real good teacher.
Hi, I thought I’d mention that Walmart has rectangular Pyrex dish that has a plastic lid that is almost perfect for dip dyeing. The lid doesn’t seal well so it’s not all that good for storage if you have to move it but I just transfer my dyes back into my containers. I use Tostitos salsa jars for holding dyes so that if I buy a quart bottle of pro dye, I can dilute it with alcohol in the Tostitos jars and leave the dye in the bottle that is left alone. I have been using an idea from another leather guy in that I dye and then glue a piece of veg tan on the lid and I can see the natural result of the dye.
Just a thought.....
How about putting an incontinence bed sheet on your table top. They are about 3 feet square, are waterproof (obviously....!), yet they have an absorbent top sheet that will soak up any spillage. I am a nurse by trade and one of these might just find its way into my stash......!
Excellent tutorial again, many thanks.....!
Great idea!
Or even puppy pads...
"You can die in small areas" "now we are going to die" funny haha
I’ve purchased a cheap Teflon coated cookie sheet, bread pan, and 9x9 pan for dying. Super easy to clean. Tupper wear work good for storing used dyes.
Thanks for making these videos! I just made my first archery bracer with paint, dye and sealing. I love it. Keep up the fantastic work!
Thank you for your cheerful instruction, Cheers Mate!
Wow ! That's awesome you just made my work way easier. THANK YOU!
Again, just love watching all of your vids. Very informative, and your persona is Great !!
I had a question about the order of processes. Dye first or punch holes first? Bevel first? Burnish first? You answered the question about punching holes with oil dye but what about dyes with other bases? Is there a good rule of thumb to follow? What are the effects of reversing the process order?
Thank you for informative and entertaining videos. Weaver has become my primary source of supplies.
Hi Jim,
If possible, punch the holes first and then dye, that way the dye hits those punched out holes too.
For your second question: Bevel first and then burnish, that way your entire rounded edge has a nice smooth finish.
Hope that helps - thanks so much for watching!
FYI, I have been experimenting with using the fiber reactive dyes from dharma trading company on veg tan leather and i can get a nearly full penetration on 8oz leather. Meaning the color changes on the inside the leather as well. Takes longer and you are tub dying it, but with that deep penetration you are basically guaranteed to not see raw leather color from scratches or shallow cuts.
Quick update on the fiber reactive dyes. after drying the leather is stiff like bamboo. If you try to bend it, it will crack. Oiling it seems to help.
HI greeting from Berlin Germany, first i wanna thank you for your videos..The Quality That you Have For Getting The Point Across Is SUPERB!
Question: what do you suggest for sealing my leather work after dyeing it with oil dye ..for make it at list a little water proof.
i tried Resoline but it washed away almost all my painted color parts. i use acryl paint like angelus..
Thank you so much in advance
Hello! Thank you for taking the time to watch one of our videos. We would recommend experimenting with our Snow Proof Water and Stain Protector (www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/8091/001/49). This is an aerosol which will eliminate having to buff the item and should help keep on the color. We would love to hear back about how this worked for you! Have a wonderful day!
Always enjoy your videos, Chuck. I was wondering if you have any ideas for fixing a streaky dye job. I started dyeing with a dauber on a project that was too big, and the streaks are noticeable. Can I just go back darker to even them out or will the streaks continue getting darker? I'm using Fiebing's Pro dye (Saddle Tan). I subsequently bought some 4 inch foam brushes to alleviate streaking. I just don't want to scrap this project and don't want to dye it black. Thanks!
Great video on topic...
Hey! Your videos are the most informative tutorials on the internet when it comes to leather dyeing!
Question: what kind of leather are you using?
I’m using veg-tanned tooling leather, and my pieces are getting WAY darker than yours (even when diluting dye:reducer 1:3)
It’s also getting really stiff, even though I’m using pro dye. I’m making watch straps, so I’m trying to get a softer feeling final product.
Do you have any thoughts on what I might be doing wrong?
Hello,
Every tannery's recipe for veg tanned leather varies a little bit depending on the processes and type of vegetable agents they use to tan the leather. This will cause dye colors to come out a little bit differently on each type of leather. With Hermann Oak® or Weaver Select Tooling sides, which is what we use in most of the videos, the dye colors seem to be very true. So, using the dye reducer is a good idea to get the color that you desire, the problem with that, however, is that dye reducer is basically just alcohol and that added alcohol content is what is making the leather stiffer. I’d recommend giving the Weaver Select or Hermann Oak® tooling leather a try and see if that doesn’t make your colors more consistent.
Hope this helps!
Hi Weaver Leathercraft, first I have to thank you for all your valuable videos . Can I use this method with water based dye?
Hi Ekramy,
Yes, dip dying with water based dyes should work as well since it will get you more even and consistent coverage compared to a sponge or dauber. One thing to remember is your dyed piece of leather's quality will only be as good as the quality of veg tanned leather you start with.
Idea for another video: Sooo... what if I was aiming at a project that needs a transition in color? So, the "consistency" of an oil dye is actually a bad thing for me - ie, even if I go over my project several times, the color will not darken for me. Is that when you would suggest the leather (pigment+alcohol) dye as opposed to the Pro (oil+alcohol) dye?
Hi there,
You'll probably have to go with an airbrush for something like this. Start with a lighter color dye and then go darker as you make your transitions.
Can you "dip dye" leather with an alcohol based dye?
Hi there,
You can but it’s not preferable and it will tend to increase some of the issues alcohol dye can have. Particularly rub-off, darkening, and stiffness. Hope this helps!
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Thanks a million!
Chuck & Team, have you tried using bleach (chlorine) or baking soda to color your leathers? And besides the negatives of working with chemicals, could you perhaps speak to the costs of doing so?
Hello,
Those are two options I haven’t thought about using! I may be a bit hesitant to introduce the two simply because there are so many options available in the way of dyes, antiques, paints, top coats…, but, that is a very interesting idea.
It's not my original idea, the credit goes to ua-cam.com/video/wA3ia34Hllk/v-deo.html (bleach) and ua-cam.com/video/rG3kaiAtHps/v-deo.html (baking soda). Both of which I'm more curious about than interested in testing. If true, it seems like each can yield time-controlled variations of brown shades. The biggest benefit could be affordability and availability. I'm not sure about the full extent of the negatives, since I've never tried it. Does it dry out the leather or damage its structural integrity? Does the reaction cause side effects when the leather encounters metal or other substances? Does it irritate the skin after the process is complete, or yield a foul/poisonous odor? I was hoping you might know, but I'll pocket it for a video I will probably never create myself.
Dip dye is the only way to go
Is there ever a situation we’re you would burnish the edges after you dye so that you edges take in more dye?
Hey Chuck, You say the Fiebings Pro Dye is an oil dye but when you order ti the details say it is an alcohol based dye. I'm confused.
Hi there,
It's alcohol based but with an oil based dye stuff. Check out the video below where I explain this a bit more. Hope that clears it up for you!
ua-cam.com/video/zokhe6oxhjc/v-deo.html
Thanks Chuck! I have a belt for my son. I have it all tooled, and holes punched. Is dip dye the way to go? I was thinking of using a drip tray for my deck flower boxes to dip. Thanks!
Hi Pamela,
Normally we would say definitely dip-dye because it will give you the most even coverage but for a belt its best to not get dye on the back to reduce the risk of rub off. We would recommend using a dauber to put the dye on and then lightly go over the edges also. You can even use painters tape on the back of the belt if you feel its necessary. Finish with a top coat on the front and the edges to seal all the dye in. Hope that helps!
Thanks for the great video... can you give some tips to me about dyeing a large piece of leather. approx 2x3 ft. I just finished tanning my first piece of bark tan deer hide,... feels great, light brown, and i treated it with neatsfoot oil and some beeswax. The color of the leather is inconsistent tho, and I am hoping to dye the whole thing a nice chocolate brown.
Hi there~ I am looking to dye a 100% genuine lambs leather jacket from light pastel pink to a light brown and am wondering if you have any tips/videos on how to dye a larger item like a jacket. I am also in California where we cannot use oil based dyes. Can you recommend ALL of the products/tools that I will need to purchase as well? Thanks so much! Love your video.
Hi Nickole,
Unfortunately, I don't have much experience with this and I definitely don't want to give you incorrect advice. As far as dye goes I would say the Fiebing's Low VOC or Fiebing's Leathercolors dye are going to be your best bet. I would definitely do some more research before attempting it. Sorry I don't have a better answer for you!
I would like some info on how to dye with Fiebings leather dye, any help would be great 👍🏼, thank you in advance
Hi Dean,
Thanks for asking! In most of our project videos I dye and you can get a quick look at how to dye, but, between here and there try this. Use only the Fiebing’s Pro Dye and go one of two ways with it. Look for one of the videos for “dip dyeing” for larger projects but for smaller projects you can use a dauber. With these make a pass with the dauber and get as much coverage as possible in the first pass but without a big soaking (you’ll get the feel quickly). Go back over it with another coat or two immediately and then wipe the excess off with a cotton-ish rag. Dye the edges and back after the front but be careful not to let the front lay in a pool of dye when you turn it over (turn it over on an unused part of your paper). Let it dry for about 2 hours +/- and then add a top coat. This will really add some richness to the color and it will give a glossy (your call on how much gloss) finish that makes it look very finished and professional. I would start with the Leather Balm. You just use a dauber to put it on and buff it off and it’s beautiful. I hope this helps!
Thank you for the help and the videos chuck, they have helped me a lot 👍🏼👍🏼
I want to achieve a red just like that sample you showed. That kinda dark red but still vibrant as can be. So would red pro dye and a topcoat achieve that or does it require dark red leather dye?
The red is just a Red Pro Dye with a Fiebing's Leather Balm top coat on natural leather. Every hide is a little bit different but as long as you have a quality natural veg tan then the dye should go on evenly and get good coverage.
Will do
Great tutorials! I am looking to dye handles of a basket that are already white leather. Will the light brown oil dye work on these if I pretreat the leather?
Hi Lauren,
Thank you for watching! We would recommend using a deglazer first to remove any top coat and to make sure the dye can penetrate and then yes, the oil dye should work pretty well!
Hi guys, got one question; If I want to delute oil dye for less rich color should I do that with oil or alcohol? Also is Oil dye same as stain? Thanks. P.S. Love your channel, made me a better leatherworker. Thumbs up for great work!
Thank you for your comment. We are so glad we can help. Yes, you can dilute the Pro Dye with denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol (my preference) and both can be found at any pharmacy; however, it takes a good bit of the alcohol to start getting the dye to thin out. You can thin dye down to roughly a stain, but a stain is a bit different in make-up. Most folks go with a stain more for the available colors and it will allow the natural color of the leather, blemishes and range marks to show through. This gives each project or panel a completely unique look. Experiment a little with thinning and see if this gets the look you want.
I’m confused. Are you using the pro dye? Because on Tandy leather it’s says that it’s alcohol based not oil based. Am I missing something?
Is the leather balm safe for painted leather? And once I apply the balm do I still need to also apply the acrylic sealer on the paint or will it be one and done?
Hi Stephen,
This is an excellent question. The Leather Balm will be fine over paint as long as the paint has ample time to dry (maybe 24 hours +/-). In all honesty, I tend to use a spray-on (Saddle-Lac, but, there are 2 tricks to using it) when something is painted just so I don’t have to rub or buff, but, the dry time is critical. As a finish the Saddle-Lac will give the entire piece a consistent gloss, but, the Leather Balm may matte a little over the paint, so, an acrylic finish may be best over the paint and the Balm over everything. I haven’t tried this, so, I may suggest a test before going to the final piece.
Is there a way to even out the dye? I spilt it on my project and it’s horribly patchy!
How can i avoid dye stains on flesh side edges, while dyeing on Grain side of natural veg tanned? Any advice me please
Hola, podrías hacer un tutorial y compartir el patrón de una canana o cinturón de cazador?. Gracias
Hola, gracias por tu sugerencia. Agregaremos esto a nuestra lista de proyectos y veremos qué podemos hacer.
I have a question, I made a small holster I cut and dyed and after I wet molded the holster for the gun, the saddle tan dye I used came out very blotchy. It looked great before the molding. I used Fieblings regular dye. Idk if that’s a common issue or maybe I did something wrong.
Question for anybody with experience: How do I prevent the dye from getting on the sides or flesh side of the leather? For instance, if I'm making a sheath and don't want the inside to be dyed. Or does it matter? Should I just dye the entire piece? All suggestions and comments welcome as I have zero experience.
Do you just store the dye in the sealed tupperware container for later use or is there some other way to minimize waste?
James, plastic and glass are fine for storing dye. Waste is always an issue, but if you buy a small funnel (kitchen type) then pouring it back into the bottle is easy and mess free. I tend to store in the bottles just because the Tupperware lids aren’t as solid as I would like and the bottles are sturdy and the caps close tight. A paper towel (and some Deglazer if you wish) makes cleanup quick and easy for both glass and plastic. Thanks for watching and for the comment!
Chuck, in general, what are your thoughts on water based dyes?
Is there a way to effectly dye one side of the leather one color and the other side another color without the dye bleeding through to the other side? I'd tried this a couple times, thinking I was lite on the dye use and it still bleed through
Hi Jason,
I would recommend lining the piece. That way you can dye the two pieces their individual colors and then glue them together. Hope that helps!
What happens if you go too slow or leave it in the dye for a while when dip dying?
Hello,
If you’re using oil dye the only negative thing that will happen if you leave the leather in the dye longer is that it will soak in more dye thus using more than really needed and drying time will be much longer. If you are using an alcohol dye, the longer it’s in the dye the darker the leather will get and the more dye that gets soaked in the harder the leather will become then once dry. Hope this helps!
Do I need to put anything in my dye to prevent the purple from turning gold or bronze? I used Fiebings purple dye on two separate pieces and they both turned gold / bronze. The pieces had been washed thoroughly and I didn't use a lot but they still changed color.
Weaver leather craft,
What type of dye would you recommend for figure carving? Great videos!
Hi Lily. As I do for all my leather working, I would recommend using Fiebing's Professional Oil Dye. Since this dye has an oil based dye agent instead of powder, the color soaks into the leather and doesn’t leave a powder residue on the grain when dried. This is great because there is a lot less chance of color transfer.
Just a question because it seemed like with corters video that they dyed the leather and then used liquid mink oil and nothing else? Wouldn't that make the dye bleed or rub off? Or did they use a finish/sealer that I didn't notice?
Hi Michael,
You would need to check with Corter Leather for sure on whether or not they added a top coat but we would recommend adding some sort of top coat because mink oil will not add any kind of sealant. Hope that helps!
Man, this video was really depressing until I realized he meant "dye" not "die."
Why does a dumbass have the most upvotes here?
Im stuck in California, oil dye is outlawed, don't ask. Any suggestions for a replacement?
Hi Rick,
We would recommend the Fiebing's Low VOC dye. You can check it out here: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/55892/001/112
Weaver Leathercraft thanks! I’ll give it a try.
Can we mix oil dyes? And how can we dilute them to get more brightness?
About sealing: resolene quite strong in water resistance category.
Hi there,
Yes, you can mix oil dyes for a custom color. Fiebing's does sell a dye reducer that works for oil dyes and regular leather dye, you can check it out here: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/50-2049/fiebings-leather-dye-reducer/pr_27341
I used wrong color using fiebings pro vegetable dye . using hot water or nail polish can I remove the most of the die
Hi there,
Deglazer will remove some of the dye but dye will penetrate the leather and unfortunately once it's dyed it's going to be that color. You can make it darker but you probably won't be able to go lighter. Hope that helps
Thank you
When I dip dye my 8-9oz vegtan using pro dye the edges soak up more dye and are always darker resulting in a 1/4 inch dark border on my pieces. I have tried several different methods and nothing works. What am I doing wrong?
HI there! I'm sorry you're having trouble with this, I would try adding a very light coat of neatsfoot oil over the entire surface of the leather and let it sit for about 30 minutes before dyeing and see if that helps the dye soak in more evenly. I would start with a very light coat and experiment with that, you can always go heavier on the oil if the light coat doesn't seem to make a difference.
Pro dye is an alcohol based dye not oil
Correct, it is alcohol based but with oil-based dyestuff.
Would this work going from brown to blue on gloves?
Hi Daniel,
The dip dyeing method would work to dye the gloves, however going from brown to blue you may want to test a piece first because the blue may not cover up the brown and it could turn into a different shade than what you were going for. If you don't want to dye the inside of the gloves to prevent rub off I may suggest using a wool dauber to dye. Hope this helps!
Weaver Leathercraft thanks trying to do wolverine costume and is hard to find the gloves already blue
I almost Dip died once, had to fish a Gun out of a Sewage intake tank, I have no words to describe, except, it’s not near as fun as it sounds
will a dyed leather develop patina?
When you dip dye, how do you seal the flesh side of the leather so it doesn't bleed?
Hello. We would advise to buff the back with a rag, add top coat or finish and recommend using an oil dye to eliminate the higher risk of bleeding out. These techniques should all help with bleeding! Thank you!
Do you wet the leather before you dye it?
I do not wet the leather. If I wet mold a project I will let it dry completely before dyeing. Hope that helps!
I am kinda confused. I love your channel , but you still talk about how bad alcohol dyes are and how great oil dyes are. But this is quote from Fiebing's Professional Dye product info" "An improved version of our traditional leather dye. Professional Oil Dye is also an ALCOHOL based dye created specifically for natural strap leather, vegetable tanned leather and bag & case leather. Excellent coverage and superior colorfastness." . So where is the major difference ?
Zdenek, while both dyes are alcohol carriers, the dye base of the Pro Dye is oil while the dye base of the traditional Leather Dye is powder. Let us know if you have any more questions.
I don't wanna dye...
hello weaver, i've tried deep dye in my strap, and atom wax coating, lookin great, however when i'm used the strap, colors stick in to my hand, whats wrong with my metode. thx for ure reply. regards.
Hi Nurron,
One thing to try is, let your dye dry for 24 hours and then take a clean cloth and buff away any pigment that may be left on the surface of the leather. You can then apply your Leather Balm. We would also recommend using Fiebing's Pro Dye if you aren't already as it does not leave the powdery pigment behind once the dye has dried. Hope this helps!
@@WeaverLeatherSupply i was using fiebing pro, does it needs another final coat, such as resolene..
@@Nurronshodiqin If the Leather Balm isn't working for you then yes, you could try a different kind of top coat like resolene or Bee Natural RTC. Check out the video below for a look at some different top coats: ua-cam.com/video/Ff-SVFhhJjc/v-deo.html
But oil dye is illegal in ca what about water based dye
Hi Mackenzie,
We would recommend either the Fiebing's Low VOC dye or the Fiebing's Leather Colors dye.
www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/55886/001/123
www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/55892/001/123
The Fiebing's Leather Colors is water based and we have had good feedback on it.
So i used eco-flo oil dye on some 4oz oil tanned leather (cost me $50 for 10sq ft) 3 days ago and for whatever reason it keeps rubbing off on my hands and my clothes every time i handle it. the leather is good quality though, i've bent it as far as it goes in both directions with no cracks or wrinkles whatsoever after bending it so my question is: am i using a bad brand/dye? Or Is there something I'm missing or didn't do that will keep it from rubbing off on my hands? Will a top coat cure my problem? If so what would be your recommendation? It is a messenger bag/purse so it still needs to maintain some semblance of malleability. Its supposed to be for my girlfriend for valentines day but I can't in good conscience give it to her knowing its going to stain her clothes and anything else she owns that it touches.
Jeremy, I hate it that you’re having trouble with a gift with a due date. I think the dye is the problem. Water-based and alcohol dyes are both notorious for rub-off. A top coat will help and may take care of the problem. First off, I would clean the leather, front, sides and edges, as best I can. A rag with a small oil content (Neatsfoot is good) or just lightly moist with water works nicely to remove excess dye left on the surface. Coat this with a Leather Balm, or any finish that you like and again, front, sides and edges. This may take care of the rub-off so you can present her with it, but, I would clean (front, sides, back) several times over the next few days and add some Leather Balm again if need be. In the future I would suggest using a Pro Dye (the only dye I use) and a Leather Balm. The Pro Dye wicks in pretty deep and leaves almost nothing on the surface, and, the Leather Balm is a wax based top coat that will give you a low gloss finish and seals pretty nicely. I hope this helps in the short term and long term. Good luck!
@Matthew M You should buff the leather a lot especially if the dye is alcohol based. After the buffing got rid of all the excess pigment on the top and gave it a nice shine you can use a light oil to make the leather softer ( and darken it a bit). Then you have to seal it with some kind of wax of your choice to protect the color and avoid some minimal bleeding.
Thank so Much for your quick replay i will try ti find this item hier in Germany but maybe i want find it hier in Berlin do you Think i can use tan kote or super sheen if i can t find the aerosol or maybe sometging else?
Thank you again for your super istructive videos
( :
You are welcome! A super sheen could possibly work. We would recommend experimenting on a small piece of leather before taking on en entire project. Another great option would be our Gard-More Water and Stain Repellent (www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/8314/001/49)
thank you again ,,i followed your suggestion and i just buy the snow proof from the US..
i get to wait longer for the product to rich me but at list i gonna have a good product soon. ( :
Awesome! We hope this works for you! We would love hearing how your project turns out!
HI again,I just got from the US the snow proof that you suggested for sealing my leather paint work with Angelus acrylic paint., but what i forgot to ask you is: wen my paint job is ready i usually put some tan kote on it ..do you think can i first put the tan kote than Neatfoot oil and than the snow proof?...or shell I put first the neatfoot oil than the Tan kote and than the Snow Proof.
i am just confuse about which product goes first.. and if i can put the snow proof on top the neatfoot oil and the tan kote.
sorry for my poor English i hope i could explain my self..
Thank you in advance and for the tips you gave me earlier. ( :
Hello! The Tan Kote may prevent the Neatsfoot from absorbing completely and would be a bit concerned the oil may affect the paint. If we were experimenting, we would lay in a light coat of Neatsfoot first, add the Tan Kote next and, when completely dry, go to the Snow Paste. If
possible we would recommend taking a piece of scrap and testing this with
several combinations. When you have the chance to test combinations you
always learn tricks outside of the project you're working on but also start to
get some confidence, and practice, before you go to the actual project. Thank
you for your question and good luck!
How would you use an airbrush gun?
Hi Kimberly! Truth be told, I am not the best source for details on the airbrush. I’ve used it, but it’s not my primary source for dye and finish. It is the best for both and I will be up to speed soon, so, if you have a chance there are a number of top notch videos out there from folks who really know how to make the airbrush perform.
Can I dip dye using a waterbased dye?
Hi Amy. Yes, you can use water-based dyes, but the results could be a streaky, inconsistent look. Oil dyes which will have a consistent color throughout. Thanks for watching!
Weaver Leather Craft Supply thanks!
I have had some success with dip dyeing with water based dyes, but like Chuck said very inconsistent however. It's either too dark, streaky, never used an oil dye just picked some up. To try on my armor. Water based dyes are I guess reacting with the sweat that I produce while fighting. ( It's allot)
And it's turning it brownish, almost like an antique get the color I'm using is very ( green). Looks good in a medieval way lol. That's my experience with water based dyes hope it helps you.
Saludos👍👍👍
0:17 "I'm going to show you a way to die"
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