Thanks so much for these three videos. I am just started in hunting and having fun tinkering with this stuff. This tutorial is perfect and I think will make a great little fun project for my 10 year old and I when we aren't in the woods!
@@jerrygrose468 Will do. My rate limiting step right now is a sewing machine. I think my mother in law has one, but not sure if it can handle this type of material.
Very nice craftsmanship and design..Here in MIssissippi it’s warm most of the season, thinking of just going with the basic sling, but with loops and a belt,
Thanks for taking time for this tutorial video! I am going to make one for myself. I am a big boy and wondering about comfort 6’6” 280. I have a 42 inch waist. What size is your waist? Do you think it would be beneficial for me to use longer webbing to make panels?
I would suggest adding 4 inches to each panels webbing length. I'm 38/40 and 237. I actually believe the more padding you have, the more beneficial this saddle is.
Not difficult at all. You would need t watch the first video about how most of the sling style saddles have the 2 panels in series. You could run bothe sides of the 2" webbing through a 1" tubular webbing piece for a metal free bridge connection. That is basically a Latitude Method.
@@jerrygrose468 I see what you mean about running it through the 1in webbing. I'm definitely going to give it a shot. Was originally thinking I wanted it like the no metal latitude but didn't think I'd even need the mesh or cordura. I might reconsider that though.
2 reasons. I like the resistance that a webbing bridge provides, and I like a split bridge that I can open. Love a amsteel bridge as well and they certainly have their place! I have a couple of Phantom clones that I prefer amsteel on.
So, for a fat boy like me, I feel like I look less like a nylon stocking full of cheese curds with the mesh! I do notice a bit more comfort over my non-mesh Wraptor, but thats related to the mesh holding everything in. A saddle fit fella might not have the same result!
I run two sit drags together for the same concept. I have never seen that done before and I absolutely love it. No sewing at all. Just attach your bridge and your done. I'm using amsteel bridge. Most comfortable saddle I've ever used and most adjustable.
My waist is 38 in is that close to yours ? My webbing is coming in today, all camouflage ! 2 in and 1 in a woodland camo pattern , can’t wait to get it together, 1 in tubular olive green, couldn’t find that in camo...I have had a trophyline single panel with green mesh for twenty years gonna be nice to have a custom double panel sling .
Let us know how it turns out! I did one out of 1" tubular. It is out and about being wrecked by the fellas over at Saddlehunter.com. Mixed reviews. (saddlehunter.com/community/index.php?threads/the-girdle-revisited-agian-method-mods.27756/) For me, the 1" adds a bit of discomfort and doesnt provide the support of 2 inch.
@@jerrygrose468 thank you. I think I’ll go with the 8 in spacing of the connector straps, maybe even spread them a bit more with an additional connector in the center, and connect the leg straps to the D rings, hearing you say they were bothering you when you adjusted the slings, eberhart has his on the D rings..but that would put the leg straps out in the way when you open up the bridge, so better to keep them on the webbing in close?
Assuming your talking about where the bridge connects to the saddle, they are climb rated D-links. I put a web link in the description of video 1 of the video series
I wound up modifying the design so that there is a continuous web strap on each panel so that the two panels will adjust in relation to each other. With the two panels independent of each other they cannot adjust as you move one up or down for comfort.
Hey Nicholas. That's all covered in video series. Links to everything are in the description of video 1.#69 thread, size 18 needle and stich length is set at 2
Thanks so much for these three videos. I am just started in hunting and having fun tinkering with this stuff. This tutorial is perfect and I think will make a great little fun project for my 10 year old and I when we aren't in the woods!
Glad you enjoyed them! Please share some pics when you get it finished!
@@jerrygrose468 Will do. My rate limiting step right now is a sewing machine. I think my mother in law has one, but not sure if it can handle this type of material.
"I've already got a lot of padding" ha! Great videos! I'll be making my own. Keep up the good work!
Very nice craftsmanship and design..Here in MIssissippi it’s warm most of the season, thinking of just going with the basic sling, but with loops and a belt,
Nice job. I'm thinking of doing one of these next.
Thanks for taking time for this tutorial video! I am going to make one for myself.
I am a big boy and wondering about comfort 6’6” 280. I have a 42 inch waist. What size is your waist? Do you think it would be beneficial for me to use longer webbing to make panels?
I would suggest adding 4 inches to each panels webbing length. I'm 38/40 and 237. I actually believe the more padding you have, the more beneficial this saddle is.
Looks great. How much more difficult do you think it would be to make a completely metal free version?
Not difficult at all. You would need t watch the first video about how most of the sling style saddles have the 2 panels in series. You could run bothe sides of the 2" webbing through a 1" tubular webbing piece for a metal free bridge connection. That is basically a Latitude Method.
@@jerrygrose468 I see what you mean about running it through the 1in webbing. I'm definitely going to give it a shot. Was originally thinking I wanted it like the no metal latitude but didn't think I'd even need the mesh or cordura. I might reconsider that though.
It’s coming along nicely. I may have missed it, but why do you prefer a webbing bridge vs amsteel?
2 reasons. I like the resistance that a webbing bridge provides, and I like a split bridge that I can open. Love a amsteel bridge as well and they certainly have their place! I have a couple of Phantom clones that I prefer amsteel on.
And Thanks!
Also, do you notice a difference comfort wise with the added mesh?
So, for a fat boy like me, I feel like I look less like a nylon stocking full of cheese curds with the mesh! I do notice a bit more comfort over my non-mesh Wraptor, but thats related to the mesh holding everything in. A saddle fit fella might not have the same result!
I run two sit drags together for the same concept. I have never seen that done before and I absolutely love it. No sewing at all. Just attach your bridge and your done. I'm using amsteel bridge. Most comfortable saddle I've ever used and most adjustable.
Pretty much the same concept. Great idea!
Cool idea. Would love to see a video or pics.
@@ZombieOnaStick21 Theres a three part video series on everything you need and how t make it. Take a look!
@@jerrygrose468 On the 2 sit drags together?
@@ZombieOnaStick21 Not following your question
Awesome job, im Jealous and I want one
My waist is 38 in is that close to yours ? My webbing is coming in today, all camouflage ! 2 in and 1 in a woodland camo pattern , can’t wait to get it together, 1 in tubular olive green, couldn’t find that in camo...I have had a trophyline single panel with green mesh for twenty years gonna be nice to have a custom double panel sling .
Nice! Uep. The one in the video fits 36-44 pretty well.
jerry are you planning on putting loops for a line mans rope???
Not at all. The rings double as linemans loops if needed.
I’m going to attempt one all out of 1” tubular.
Let us know how it turns out! I did one out of 1" tubular. It is out and about being wrecked by the fellas over at Saddlehunter.com. Mixed reviews. (saddlehunter.com/community/index.php?threads/the-girdle-revisited-agian-method-mods.27756/) For me, the 1" adds a bit of discomfort and doesnt provide the support of 2 inch.
Question please-- you did use 1 in tubular webbing for the bridge?
That is correct sir.
@@jerrygrose468 thank you. I think I’ll go with the 8 in spacing of the connector straps, maybe even spread them a bit more with an additional connector in the center, and connect the leg straps to the D rings, hearing you say they were bothering you when you adjusted the slings, eberhart has his on the D rings..but that would put the leg straps out in the way when you open up the bridge, so better to keep them on the webbing in close?
thank you i'll try that
What kind of connector do you use for the bridgs?
Assuming your talking about where the bridge connects to the saddle, they are climb rated D-links. I put a web link in the description of video 1 of the video series
No the actual bridge itself. I saw it is an adjustable web bridge.
@@carlwydrzynski3578 ah...Austrialpine slider buckle in 1.25 inch. 18kn.
@@jerrygrose468 that was my question also, buckle for the adjustable bridge, I’ll try to find that, perhaps you could provide a link for it?
Price $$
I wound up modifying the design so that there is a continuous web strap on each panel so that the two panels will adjust in relation to each other. With the two panels independent of each other they cannot adjust as you move one up or down for comfort.
I also added thigh straps like climbing saddles have to keep the saddle top panel from riding up my back when rope climbing .
What size and brand is the thread you use? Also, what size/type of needle? Stitch spacing?
Hey Nicholas. That's all covered in video series. Links to everything are in the description of video 1.#69 thread, size 18 needle and stich length is set at 2
I've found, seatbelts from junk cars work very well. And their not expensive. Everyone knows where there is a junk car.
My only concern with seatbelts from junk cars is the degradation of the material over time and conditions.