I never thought I would grow up to become a hunter and a....crafter/sew-er/stitcher lol. Truth is, I almost enjoy the DIY more than the hunting. This is a fantastic demo though, I learned a lot.
After hearing about spices for a while I stumbled upon this video I love the way you take the time to explain it and it seems very easy if you pay attention thank you for your time and to hell with all the naysayers
"to hell with all the naysayers"...????????? He is not following the manufacturer's splice recommendations. The bury is designed to carry the entire load. He is using about half as much bury as he is supposed to. A short bury can reduce the breaking strength by over 50%. Here is a video testing a brummel with a short bury and a proper length bury. The short bury broke at 4700lbs. The proper length bury broke at 12,300lbs. Do the math on that. Plus he did not taper which also reduces the line strength up to 20%. It's a well made video, it's just full of very bad information that could get someone killed. Watch from 15 min to 19min. ua-cam.com/video/lhIPeJNWtxE/v-deo.html
Great vid. I'm wondering if there is any other type of rope I can use in replacement for the zing it. What was the diameter of the rope you used to the lock hitch? I only need very little for this and a spool is about 30 bucks.
To anyone attempting to make a DIY bridge.... Please follow the manufacturer's recommendations on splices. They will tell you how long the bury needs to be and show you how to taper. The buries in this video are WAY too short which means the brummel lock will be carrying more of the load (it's not intended to carry ANY of the load) instead of the bury carrying the full load. Also he did not taper the ends of the rope. This will reduce the breaking strength of the amsteel which has already been significantly reduced by the short buries. I'm not saying that this bridge will fail. There's likely enough safety factor that something else would fail first. But there's a very good chance this bridge will break at or below 50% of the breaking strength of the line. Why wouldn't you follow the manufacturer's recommendations, make it correctly, and enjoy a stronger finished product that breaks at over 90% of the MBS? A guy in a sailboat was killed because he used a brummel with a short bury and it broke below 50% line rating causing the boom to swing freely which hit and broke his neck. Do your homework, your life depends on it...
Your video makes it real easy. Maybe include the sizes of the DIY fids. I watched and went with purple, and it seems that there people one I got was too small.
You might want to check the bury for a locked brummel. The recommendations range from 47-60 times the line diameter. That would make the bury for a 1/4 Amsteel over 11 inches and for 7/64 a bit over five inches. Without a locked brummel, the bury should be 3.5 fids or about 72 times the diameter.
Yeah you're probably right. It's not going to fail the way I did it, but you won't get the full strength of the rope unless you follow the Amsteel guides.
@@G2Outdoors There's no probably about it. He IS right. Here is a video testing a brummel with a proper length bury and one with a short bury. The short bury broke at 4,700lbs. The proper length bury broke at 12,300lbs. The short bury weakened the line by 62%. Watch from 15min to 19 min. ua-cam.com/video/lhIPeJNWtxE/v-deo.html
G2 Outdoors well I think I may have found a down side to the amsteel...it seems I can’t use the prusik for the back band of the kestrel because the burry changes the diameter of the rope:/
@@DIYWhitetail Seems to me that the length of the bury is limited about to the length of the Fid. You might be able to get a bit more by sort of bunching up the rope a bit -- or you could bring the fid out and then carefully reinsert it at the same point after you had pulled the rope through to go further down the rope. That might get you the length you need?
Hey Greg, quick question, how much does Amsteel "slip" when wet? have rope mods on my climbing sticks, don't want them to give way if they get wet in the rain when I am trying to climb down what is your experience with this?
ANY reason to full bury the am steel on the bridge? Or am I being silly? Would the extra stiffness be an advantage for the bridge if done w a full bury?
Hey man. Thanks for your service. I’m new to saddle hunting. It’s HUGE now. So I’m starting with my own rig until I know I’m confident enough to buy the tethrd Mantis system (which looks awesome). My question is, how much line should I order? I know 49” Amsteel for bridge. What do you recommend for lineman’s and for tether? I don’t want to order more than I need. And can I use Ropeman1 ascended with Amsteel? Thanks man. Stay blessed.
You lose about 4' of rope to tie your loops and stopper knots in your climbing line for tethers and lineman belts. So if you want an 8' tether, but 12 foot of rope. If you want a 6' tether, buy 10' of rope. Hope that helps!
Do NOT ropeman Amsteel. I use Samson Predator for my tether with a Blake’s hitch, ropeman is good on it too. I get it at WesSpur, they sell it by the foot.
I can think of a couple reasons why it would be inconvenient but idk about safety. 1. It has no cover/sheath so it would stick to bark and bark will get all Tangled in it and wear it quickly. 2. You need a friction hitch or ropeman to adjust the length of a lineman belt pretty much constantly, can't do that with amsteel.
How much length of Amsteel do I need to start with in order to make a whoopie sling lineman’s belt that is 8 feet finished length when extended to its largest adjustment. I want my whoopie sling LB to be as long as my Tethrd LB.
Would 80 pound braided fishing line work as a lock stitch since it's not load bearing? Getting ready to splice my bridge and don't have 300#line or zingit.
With a locked brummel, you don't need a locking stitch. A locked brummel splice can be made with access to only one side, it just requires a different technique.
Order sailing needles off amazon for your lock splice. Also you need smaller fid's for the diameter of line your working with. And remember most splices decrease WLL (working load limit) by up to 30%. I haven't looked into this line before, but with double braided nylon its about that amount. Damn army guys trying to play Navy!! haahahahaha Let us show you how to properly splice a line hahaha
G2 Outdoors I will gladly help! I was actually looking for a splicing set and sailing needles a few weeks back to make chokers and prussic knots for climbers. Trying to use my skills to make a little extra money on the side hahaha. Smaller diameter rope is harder than the big stuff, but the big stuff needs power to sink the core into the cover.
so essentially you made a large whoopie sling for a linemans belt, my question is that the same method used for cranford ez rope steps??? does the rope get weaker as it gets longer, or could I replace the cranford rope with this type ?
09:51 The breaking strength is not 1800lbs for 7/64th. Average breaking strength is 1600lbs and minimum breaking strength (the only strength that matters) is 1400lbs according to Samson Rope (the manufacturer). Using a brummel lock can slightly reduce this a little, not tapering will definitely reduce this (up to 20%), using too short of a bury (like you did in this video) will reduce this significantly more (over 50%).... please follow the manufacturer's recommendations for making splices, people's lives are on the line.
I love the innovative spirit, but may I caution your application of Amsteel? It is a self-abrading fiber with poor flex fatigue, meaning that it can fail without warning. Bridges on certain tree climbing saddles used amsteel for a short time until they started failing. Please do more research on the product. An alternative is 3/8” Tenex. Still plenty strong, light, and easy to splice.
@Daryl " It is a self-abrading fiber with poor flex fatigue" It actually has good flex fatigue, it just doesn't retain strength with sharp bends. They can be visually examined quite easily. Fraying would be the indicator. Sailboats use them for anchor lines and mast support for years.
Would you prefer that over a continuous loop which looks a little easier but which would you say is better the loop would take more amsteel but it's not expensive .
The bury is what carries the entire load, not the brummel. The brummel just keeps everything in place when there is no tension on the line. A brummel with no bury would slip/break around 25% or less of the line breaking strength.
You really should think about revising this video or deleting it. A lot of folks are going to follow step by step and incorrectly fail to taper, which is one of the most critical steps to ensuring a bury keeps. The stitching effect is minimal by comparison.
I agree. There's no way I would post a "how-to" video on creating a life support device without referencing or following to a "T" the manufacturers guidelines on how to splice their products. No taper and the buries are nowhere near long enough. He should take it down and redo it...
@@seabass22 It's definitely NOT fine. It's less than 1/8" thick. They use 3/8" on winches which breaks at 17,600lbs. That dinky line has a minimum breaking strength of 1400lbs. The way he poorly constructed it (buries too short and no taper), will likely break around 60% of the MBS or 840lbs. So much for a 10:1 safety factor. The smallest amsteel blue I would use for a lineman's belt is 5/32". But it is still a poor choice for a lineman's belt in my opinion.
At 16:11,Just another variation, but this video shows you how to get that locked brummel without running the whole mainline thru, ua-cam.com/video/UpkqJ4GRfSg/v-deo.html
@J Corr Knot derate the line strength. A simple girth hitch can render a rope down to 45% of it's breaking limit. Splicing retains more and in some cases exceeds it.
@@wisenber nothing to do with that make, locked brummels reduce strength too. The reason you don't tie knots is because amsteel has very low friction, and just about any knot will just unravel itselfb
@@butwhowasmoto2739 The reason to choose splicing over knots is strength. A bowline reduces strength by 23-30 percent. A clove hitch or overhand is closer to 40 percent loss. Splicing is much less, and the appropriate number of fids is required for the splice to hold. A locked brommel loses only slightly more than a stitched lock as the stitch reduces strength as well. Amsteel can hold the right knot. It's just not a good choice for holding a prussic and such. The bury isn't cosmetic, it's a requirement. A properly buried locked brummel exceeds the line strength.
OH DUDE.. Props for having a go but have a look around, see anyone else doing this?!?.. nope!! .. Hmm wonder why??... If you don't know why, maybe you should go search before showing others how to do something potentially 'LIFE CHANGING' !! YES I SOUND LIKE A DICK.... Hopefully that's enough to stop someone getting hurt!!! Much love xx
@Dark "Props for having a go but have a look around, see anyone else doing this?!?.. nope!! " Actually you do. There just needs to be another line in the system with stretch for fall arrest. Otherwise, it'll break your back.
I never thought I would grow up to become a hunter and a....crafter/sew-er/stitcher lol. Truth is, I almost enjoy the DIY more than the hunting. This is a fantastic demo though, I learned a lot.
I am new to saddle hunting, and my saddle has an Amsteel bridge, built like your first example. It's fascinating to see how it's made!
After hearing about spices for a while I stumbled upon this video I love the way you take the time to explain it and it seems very easy if you pay attention thank you for your time and to hell with all the naysayers
"to hell with all the naysayers"...????????? He is not following the manufacturer's splice recommendations. The bury is designed to carry the entire load. He is using about half as much bury as he is supposed to. A short bury can reduce the breaking strength by over 50%. Here is a video testing a brummel with a short bury and a proper length bury. The short bury broke at 4700lbs. The proper length bury broke at 12,300lbs. Do the math on that. Plus he did not taper which also reduces the line strength up to 20%. It's a well made video, it's just full of very bad information that could get someone killed. Watch from 15 min to 19min. ua-cam.com/video/lhIPeJNWtxE/v-deo.html
Man I really appreciate this video this will be perfect for my sit drag with no climbing harness very nice
Be safe. the Sitdrag isn't meant for above ground use.
@@G2Outdoors yes for sure I hunted with it and harness last year. Killed a nice 8 out of it
Great video, Easy to follow...I am a new subscriber...
GREAT explanations!
Great video 😊
Boom. Just spliced my first brummel for my bridge.
You're the man!
Very nice 👍🏼. Great tutorial.
Nice demo man! Im glad you did it. I had no clue how to do this.
it's pretty easy, right?
Sure looks like it!
Very nicely done. Great tutorial.
Great vid. I'm wondering if there is any other type of rope I can use in replacement for the zing it. What was the diameter of the rope you used to the lock hitch? I only need very little for this and a spool is about 30 bucks.
Great video! Thanks for sharing
Great step by step. ThanksNate
Nice tutorial! You explain it very well.
Thanks!
To anyone attempting to make a DIY bridge.... Please follow the manufacturer's recommendations on splices. They will tell you how long the bury needs to be and show you how to taper. The buries in this video are WAY too short which means the brummel lock will be carrying more of the load (it's not intended to carry ANY of the load) instead of the bury carrying the full load. Also he did not taper the ends of the rope. This will reduce the breaking strength of the amsteel which has already been significantly reduced by the short buries. I'm not saying that this bridge will fail. There's likely enough safety factor that something else would fail first. But there's a very good chance this bridge will break at or below 50% of the breaking strength of the line. Why wouldn't you follow the manufacturer's recommendations, make it correctly, and enjoy a stronger finished product that breaks at over 90% of the MBS? A guy in a sailboat was killed because he used a brummel with a short bury and it broke below 50% line rating causing the boom to swing freely which hit and broke his neck. Do your homework, your life depends on it...
Your video makes it real easy. Maybe include the sizes of the DIY fids. I watched and went with purple, and it seems that there people one I got was too small.
Love this video
You might want to check the bury for a locked brummel. The recommendations range from 47-60 times the line diameter. That would make the bury for a 1/4 Amsteel over 11 inches and for 7/64 a bit over five inches. Without a locked brummel, the bury should be 3.5 fids or about 72 times the diameter.
Yeah you're probably right. It's not going to fail the way I did it, but you won't get the full strength of the rope unless you follow the Amsteel guides.
@@G2Outdoors There's no probably about it. He IS right. Here is a video testing a brummel with a proper length bury and one with a short bury. The short bury broke at 4,700lbs. The proper length bury broke at 12,300lbs. The short bury weakened the line by 62%. Watch from 15min to 19 min. ua-cam.com/video/lhIPeJNWtxE/v-deo.html
Just made my amazon order to do this!! I love the Kestrel but the bridge is so bulky!
Yeah I agree. I think amsteel is a better option.
G2 Outdoors well I think I may have found a down side to the amsteel...it seems I can’t use the prusik for the back band of the kestrel because the burry changes the diameter of the rope:/
Can I make the bury longer to make the rope diameter more symmetrical?
@@DIYWhitetail Seems to me that the length of the bury is limited about to the length of the Fid. You might be able to get a bit more by sort of bunching up the rope a bit -- or you could bring the fid out and then carefully reinsert it at the same point after you had pulled the rope through to go further down the rope. That might get you the length you need?
Hey Greg, quick question, how much does Amsteel "slip" when wet? have rope mods on my climbing sticks, don't want them to give way if they get wet in the rain when I am trying to climb down what is your experience with this?
**GriN**. MY answer is to rappel down and not worry about them! Hunt safely, my Friends!
Would making a spliced eye around existing saddle on both sides with free standing ends meeting in the middle and spliced in the middle be safe?
ANY reason to full bury the am steel on the bridge? Or am I being silly? Would the extra stiffness be an advantage for the bridge if done w a full bury?
Hey man. Thanks for your service. I’m new to saddle hunting. It’s HUGE now. So I’m starting with my own rig until I know I’m confident enough to buy the tethrd Mantis system (which looks awesome). My question is, how much line should I order? I know 49” Amsteel for bridge. What do you recommend for lineman’s and for tether? I don’t want to order more than I need. And can I use Ropeman1 ascended with Amsteel? Thanks man. Stay blessed.
No, cannot ropeman amsteel
You lose about 4' of rope to tie your loops and stopper knots in your climbing line for tethers and lineman belts. So if you want an 8' tether, but 12 foot of rope. If you want a 6' tether, buy 10' of rope. Hope that helps!
Do NOT ropeman Amsteel. I use Samson Predator for my tether with a Blake’s hitch, ropeman is good on it too. I get it at WesSpur, they sell it by the foot.
Hope my mantis is stitch right. Should be here day before Christmas with a predator platform. Thanks
Would the splice you use also work on polyrope accessorie cord
Would the Amstel make a good lineman’s belt and tree tether? Does grab the tee well enough?
I can think of a couple reasons why it would be inconvenient but idk about safety. 1. It has no cover/sheath so it would stick to bark and bark will get all Tangled in it and wear it quickly. 2. You need a friction hitch or ropeman to adjust the length of a lineman belt pretty much constantly, can't do that with amsteel.
What size FID did u use for the 1/4 AB
Do you think 7/64 amsteel would work good on wild edge steps by making a whoopie sling and a soft shackle to make lighter and less bulk
How much length of Amsteel do I need to start with in order to make a whoopie sling lineman’s belt that is 8 feet finished length when extended to its largest adjustment. I want my whoopie sling LB to be as long as my Tethrd LB.
What's the whoopie sling for? back support??
Do you just eyeball the spacing on your splice like whe you past the mainline through the tag end to make your loop how much space do you leave
I just kind of eyeball it.
What’s the starting length of the lineman’s ? I’m assuming around 8’
How hard would it be and what size amsteel rope would i use to make a Whoopie sling for my beast climbing sticks?TIA
It's easy, and I'd use 1/4"
If you are making a bridge for an existing saddle (24" bridge) how much amsteel do you need to start with since you cant do 2 locked brumels?
DIY Whitetail not much less. 24 for bridge + 16-18 for buries + 6 or 8 for loops. About 40"-48".
@DIY You can make two locked brummels. Premium Ropes 7.2.2 video shows how.
Would 80 pound braided fishing line work as a lock stitch since it's not load bearing? Getting ready to splice my bridge and don't have 300#line or zingit.
Yup. Should work just fine. I've actually used braided fishing line before. I think mine was 300lb test. But I'm sure 80 would work.
@@G2Outdoors I ordered some kite line. 300# 1.75mm I believe.
With a locked brummel, you don't need a locking stitch. A locked brummel splice can be made with access to only one side, it just requires a different technique.
wisenber can you link to a video showing how to do this?
Use the seat in the tree? Need to know?
Hey Greg, what size samson do you use for the stitching?
That was Samson Zing-it
@@G2Outdoors there are 2 sizes of zing it, 1.75mm and 2.2mm. Which size did you use? Thanks
Where did you get your splicing devices?
I made some, and I bought others on Amazon. Search "splicing fids" I may even have a link in the video description.
Order sailing needles off amazon for your lock splice. Also you need smaller fid's for the diameter of line your working with. And remember most splices decrease WLL (working load limit) by up to 30%. I haven't looked into this line before, but with double braided nylon its about that amount. Damn army guys trying to play Navy!! haahahahaha Let us show you how to properly splice a line hahaha
lolololol please show us grunts how it's done!!!!
G2 Outdoors I will gladly help! I was actually looking for a splicing set and sailing needles a few weeks back to make chokers and prussic knots for climbers. Trying to use my skills to make a little extra money on the side hahaha. Smaller diameter rope is harder than the big stuff, but the big stuff needs power to sink the core into the cover.
What size zing it are you using 1.7mm or 2.2mm?
I’m interested in knowing this also
so essentially you made a large whoopie sling for a linemans belt, my question is that the same method used for cranford ez rope steps??? does the rope get weaker as it gets longer, or could I replace the cranford rope with this type ?
Yes it is I own a set of Cranford it is the same.
09:51 The breaking strength is not 1800lbs for 7/64th. Average breaking strength is 1600lbs and minimum breaking strength (the only strength that matters) is 1400lbs according to Samson Rope (the manufacturer). Using a brummel lock can slightly reduce this a little, not tapering will definitely reduce this (up to 20%), using too short of a bury (like you did in this video) will reduce this significantly more (over 50%).... please follow the manufacturer's recommendations for making splices, people's lives are on the line.
I love the innovative spirit, but may I caution your application of Amsteel? It is a self-abrading fiber with poor flex fatigue, meaning that it can fail without warning. Bridges on certain tree climbing saddles used amsteel for a short time until they started failing. Please do more research on the product.
An alternative is 3/8” Tenex. Still plenty strong, light, and easy to splice.
@Daryl " It is a self-abrading fiber with poor flex fatigue"
It actually has good flex fatigue, it just doesn't retain strength with sharp bends. They can be visually examined quite easily. Fraying would be the indicator. Sailboats use them for anchor lines and mast support for years.
Would you prefer that over a continuous loop which looks a little easier but which would you say is better the loop would take more amsteel but it's not expensive .
What’s the purpose of the “bury” why not just cut the tag end off instead after you got it nice and tight?
Uhh, because it will just unravel the weave of the cord....
The bury is what carries the entire load, not the brummel. The brummel just keeps everything in place when there is no tension on the line. A brummel with no bury would slip/break around 25% or less of the line breaking strength.
For anyone watching now , you don't need all these fancy tools. A wire coat hanger does the same exact thing
Yeah, you can do it with a wire hanger. I've done it a bunch of times. The "fancy tools" make it a lot easier.
You really should think about revising this video or deleting it. A lot of folks are going to follow step by step and incorrectly fail to taper, which is one of the most critical steps to ensuring a bury keeps. The stitching effect is minimal by comparison.
I agree. There's no way I would post a "how-to" video on creating a life support device without referencing or following to a "T" the manufacturers guidelines on how to splice their products. No taper and the buries are nowhere near long enough. He should take it down and redo it...
Why would you need to "add" an Am-Steel to the bridge....I thought all Mantis' came with a Am-Steel bridge already? Confused!
Not the only saddle on the market.
"So this is the end of the (sigh) line"
You okay bro???
i would be afraid of using that thin amsteel as a linemans belt
greg brightman it’s used on winches. Pretty sure it’s fine. Stronger than steel winch cable.
@@seabass22 It's definitely NOT fine. It's less than 1/8" thick. They use 3/8" on winches which breaks at 17,600lbs. That dinky line has a minimum breaking strength of 1400lbs. The way he poorly constructed it (buries too short and no taper), will likely break around 60% of the MBS or 840lbs. So much for a 10:1 safety factor. The smallest amsteel blue I would use for a lineman's belt is 5/32". But it is still a poor choice for a lineman's belt in my opinion.
At 16:11,Just another variation, but this video shows you how to get that locked brummel without running the whole mainline thru, ua-cam.com/video/UpkqJ4GRfSg/v-deo.html
Maybe I didn't watch the video good enough.But why couldn't you use the first method on an existing saddle?
You can't do a locked brummel on both sides. It won't work.
Can you just knot the Amsteel instead of splicing it?
No. Amsteel doesn't hold knots well.
@J Corr Knot derate the line strength. A simple girth hitch can render a rope down to 45% of it's breaking limit. Splicing retains more and in some cases exceeds it.
@@wisenber nothing to do with that make, locked brummels reduce strength too.
The reason you don't tie knots is because amsteel has very low friction, and just about any knot will just unravel itselfb
@@butwhowasmoto2739 The reason to choose splicing over knots is strength.
A bowline reduces strength by 23-30 percent. A clove hitch or overhand is closer to 40 percent loss.
Splicing is much less, and the appropriate number of fids is required for the splice to hold. A locked brommel loses only slightly more than a stitched lock as the stitch reduces strength as well.
Amsteel can hold the right knot. It's just not a good choice for holding a prussic and such.
The bury isn't cosmetic, it's a requirement. A properly buried locked brummel exceeds the line strength.
I should have stayed in the boy scouts
Better yet...you have UA-cam! you can learn to splice in 15 minutes.
OH DUDE.. Props for having a go but have a look around, see anyone else doing this?!?.. nope!! .. Hmm wonder why??... If you don't know why, maybe you should go search before showing others how to do something potentially 'LIFE CHANGING' !!
YES I SOUND LIKE A DICK.... Hopefully that's enough to stop someone getting hurt!!!
Much love xx
@Dark "Props for having a go but have a look around, see anyone else doing this?!?.. nope!! "
Actually you do. There just needs to be another line in the system with stretch for fall arrest. Otherwise, it'll break your back.
The sound of your intro is very annoying.
Very interesting and an informative video. Could one burn the end of the Zingit to keep it from unravelling or is that necessary?
You could definitely do that. It wouldn't hurt.