Johnathon, your video is just what I needed. I had ordered the Conch Shell pattern from Steve and have watched his one video a dozen times. He only covers random procedures and it was nice that even though fast, your video covered the entire process. I'm in the process of finishing Steve's new Vacuum wedge jig and still have some tweaking to do on it. Looks like a definite improvement over his old Corian one. This process must be flexible since I see you have deviated from Steve's procedures but still came up with great results. This alone is very encouraging since I've always realized there's always more than one way to achieve good results. I now feel more confident in tackling this project with the help of watching you. Thanks again.
thank you, that's a lovely message! its to reach people like yourself that I originally started making videos. I watched steves videos several times but didn't have access to the material he was using so I needed to get a little creative. I haven't experimented with the vaccum jig, sticking with the method I used in this video, not overly complicated and I get good results from it. the first shell takes a lot of time while you figure out little things you can do or steps you can skip to get a good result. My first shell took many hours, by the time I made my third it went considerable faster as my confidence grew. if you have any questions, or hit a roadblock, feel free to send me a message or email. have fun with this, they are extremely satisfying to carve!
Hi Johnathon, thanks for the note. I really thought today was going to be my day to finally start cutting some wedges and get going on this Conch shell. Took a turn for the worse in that I had to take some of the Vacuum Jig apart and do some adjustment tweaking. Seems like that's all I do is "tweaking". Also when I did finally cut a wedge I'm finding for some strange reason I'm off about .5 degrees on my angle and it sure makes a difference when you take 13 sample wedges to see if you get the 180 degrees. Finished my tweaks and readjusted the angle. Will try another sample cut and see if I fair better. I'm once again hoping that tomorrow will be the day when I can get some good accurate wedges cut and then start gluing on my patterns. If this vacuum sled doesn't work out after tomorrow I'm going to make one like you did. I bet yours is Rock Solid and after the final adjustments you made during construction you know it's never going to move. Peace of mind....ha Thanks for your kind offer of answering some questions. If things go like they've been, I know for sure I'll have some for you. Thanks and have a good day.
Hi again Johnathon..... Finished the Vacuum wedge jig this morning and my angle of 13.846 degrees is almost perfect(maybe .002 off) and after a test 1/2 circle of 13 wedges it's a perfect 180 degrees. Using some 2 x 4's planed and milled pine I've cut a couple wedges in preparation to see how the patterns fit. Using the Thickness gauge measurements provided by Steve, I made myself the gauge as called for to draw the reference line and have it match the pattern reference line. The question I have is, after putting the sharp edge into the gauge and marking both sides, the line I have is about 3/4" up from the sharp edge. The line on each of the patterns are up 1" from the bottom of the pattern and with my line being 3/4" up it leaves the bottom of the pattern off the bottom sharp edge roughly 1/4". Thus using the gauge on my wedges I can only get a line drawn up 3/4" from the bottom sharp edge. Any idea what could be causing this? I also put your video in slow motion so I could see clearly and I really don't see these pattern reference lines on the wood your cutting. They may be there, but just don't show in your video as your cutting on your scroll saw. Thanks.........
I had to go back through steves instructions to double check what you meant and the simple answer is; I didn't add the reference lines. I skipped the step with the gauge. basically, I cut out the wedges, cut out steves patterns and just lined up the sharp edge of the wedge with the pattern. I also didn't follow the patterns exactly. I allowed for the points on the conch to be a little longer so I could exaggerate them. this calls for slightly more detailing and sanding but does speed up the process a little bit. once your pieces make the 180 degree shape, you should be just fine cutting out the patterns and gluing them straight on
@@JohnathonWhittaker Yes, I wish Steve would revise his procedure manual for those of us that are just starting out attempting one of these shells. Every time I email Steve he tells me a statement in his manual no longer applies and he's made changes. Problem is that he is not telling anyone about these changes and I have to find them out the hard way. I slowed the speed down on your video and watched it again. I must say that I learn more from watching yours than Steve's procedure sheet. Another thing I noticed in your video is that you point the sharp edge towards the rear of the scroll saw when cutting. Steve insists that the sharper edge of the wedge must point towards you. I certainly hope he's correct in saying the scroll saw table must be tilted 12 degrees to the left. I emailed Steve last night about the sharp end of the wedge. Now he tells me that do not make it sharp as his directions state because he's noticing that it causes holes in the shell upon assembly. I'm cutting wedges this afternoon and will leave the sharp end about 3mm wide and not point sharp. Have you ever considered making a more lengthy video covering every step of the operation? I'll tell you this, many people would appreciate it. Have you checked out the Facebook page Steve created years ago? It's titled "Wooden Shells". Lots of good comments and tips from those who attempt these shells. Have a good day and stay safe...........
@@rroe5718 I think his first basic steps are more than enough to go by, you just need to "wing it" a bit. I don't think its really possible with basic woodworking tools to get that kind of precision so anything between 12.5 and 14 degrees is fine. I always cut them to a very sharp edge, easier to assemble and smooth on the inside, plus much easier to cut on the saw! also with the scroll saw positioning, as long as you cut each piece the same way you will be fine. yes tilt to the 12 degrees, that gives a nice chamfer on the wood and helps everything get a more realistic shape. as for the videos, its hard to add in all the steps and keep the videos to a reasonable time. I think Steve was an engineer and describes things in a way that makes sense to him. I like to explain a little more, cover the different steps that I either eliminate or had a bit of a tricky time figuring out. yes I am on steves page and actually sent him this video before I published it. didn't want to seem like I was trying to steal his thunder at all. I like his creations and find them very satisfying to carve, but yes the instructions were a bit vague. I will try and do another video on shell making, see if I can make some of the steps a bit more clear. you have a good day to !
Hi Jonathon,voted for you as header page for the FB Woodcrafts and Joinery page and now watched your video,fantastic work and will definitely be giving this stuff a try.Can I ask what blades you use in your scroll saw in the video please
Hello Johnathon, finishing up a Nautalis shell and would love to try your process of staining it. Love those vibrant colors. Could you please clarify the process of applying the stain and then sanding it off and then reapplying later. Must be a good reason for doing it that way and would love to know. Thanks
Thanks for that, i know it seems unusual to add colour and then sand it 80 percent off but i find its a great way to blend and merge the different wood stains. Its takes away any lines and helps the colours come together more naturally. These wood stains tend to react to each other unless thoroughly dry. Basically i add a colour, apply a contrasting colour next to it and then sand where they meet. I then add a third colour to the sanded area and it helps melt the colours together. I have a few other videos on my channel that hopefully show the technique a little better. Also a good airbrush certainly helps
@@JohnathonWhittaker Thanks for the reply on this one. It now comes together and makes sense on the sanding procedure. You definitely have this procedure down to a science.
Hey Johnathan, -22 degrees F here in balmy Southern MN. Watching your video. Like the jig for cutting angles. Can be adapted for other projects. Keep trying to move forward into the carving but..... my snow plow quit, my mitersaw power switch is broken, my Bosch 3.3 hp router has an internal motor problem, oh yeah one of my 24 volt Bosch drivers stopped. Hmmmm????? And I'm inching forward. Maybe spring?
Hi David, they are foam backing pads normally used in car polishing. I double them up and they are perfect for contour sanding and polishing. I will try and find a link for you
H8 Marla, I used Indian ink, absorbs nicely and leaves no residue. I have used it several times before and never noticed any decrease in the glue strength. I will check the brand name for you. But it.does give nice symmetrical black lines throughout the shell
Looks great! Thanks for showing so much of the process Johnathon. I've just started making the wedge jig. Looks like you made your jig lighter and omitted the Corian piece? Works fine with the changes? Thanks again.
I made the jig in a U shape, that way I could change the angle with an internal wedge if needed. Longer term solution will be to bolts so that I can adjust to either increase or decrease the angle as needed. I didn't have access to corian so used pine instead. Worked just fine for me
If I can't figure out an easy way to do recessed nuts in this solid one, I'll use your U shape next time so I can easily accommodate bolts and be able to make different angles too. Thanks for sharing!
@@greenhiker the recessed nuts should be pretty ease, use a spade bit to sink it in. steves method is good, I just didn't have that much ply lying around
Johnathon, your video is just what I needed. I had ordered the Conch Shell pattern from Steve and have watched his one video a dozen times. He only covers random procedures and it was nice that even though fast, your video covered the entire process. I'm in the process of finishing Steve's new Vacuum wedge jig and still have some tweaking to do on it. Looks like a definite improvement over his old Corian one. This process must be flexible since I see you have deviated from Steve's procedures but still came up with great results. This alone is very encouraging since I've always realized there's always more than one way to achieve good results. I now feel more confident in tackling this project with the help of watching you. Thanks again.
thank you, that's a lovely message! its to reach people like yourself that I originally started making videos. I watched steves videos several times but didn't have access to the material he was using so I needed to get a little creative. I haven't experimented with the vaccum jig, sticking with the method I used in this video, not overly complicated and I get good results from it. the first shell takes a lot of time while you figure out little things you can do or steps you can skip to get a good result. My first shell took many hours, by the time I made my third it went considerable faster as my confidence grew. if you have any questions, or hit a roadblock, feel free to send me a message or email. have fun with this, they are extremely satisfying to carve!
This shell shell you just finished is breathtakingly stunning.
Thank you!
Amazing. You must have unbelievable patience and concentration.
And stubbornness! 😁 Thanks for the great comment!
Hi Johnathon, thanks for the note. I really thought today was going to be my day to finally start cutting some wedges and get going on this Conch shell. Took a turn for the worse in that I had to take some of the Vacuum Jig apart and do some adjustment tweaking. Seems like that's all I do is "tweaking". Also when I did finally cut a wedge I'm finding for some strange reason I'm off about .5 degrees on my angle and it sure makes a difference when you take 13 sample wedges to see if you get the 180 degrees. Finished my tweaks and readjusted the angle. Will try another sample cut and see if I fair better. I'm once again hoping that tomorrow will be the day when I can get some good accurate wedges cut and then start gluing on my patterns. If this vacuum sled doesn't work out after tomorrow I'm going to make one like you did. I bet yours is Rock Solid and after the final adjustments you made during construction you know it's never going to move. Peace of mind....ha
Thanks for your kind offer of answering some questions. If things go like they've been, I know for sure I'll have some for you. Thanks and have a good day.
Hi again Johnathon.....
Finished the Vacuum wedge jig this morning and my angle of 13.846 degrees is almost perfect(maybe .002 off) and after a test 1/2 circle of 13 wedges it's a perfect 180 degrees. Using some 2 x 4's planed and milled pine I've cut a couple wedges in preparation to see how the patterns fit. Using the Thickness gauge measurements provided by Steve, I made myself the gauge as called for to draw the reference line and have it match the pattern reference line. The question I have is, after putting the sharp edge into the gauge and marking both sides, the line I have is about 3/4" up from the sharp edge. The line on each of the patterns are up 1" from the bottom of the pattern and with my line being 3/4" up it leaves the bottom of the pattern off the bottom sharp edge roughly 1/4".
Thus using the gauge on my wedges I can only get a line drawn up 3/4" from the bottom sharp edge. Any idea what could be causing this? I also put your video in slow motion so I could see clearly and I really don't see these pattern reference lines on the wood your cutting. They may be there, but just don't show in your video as your cutting on your scroll saw. Thanks.........
I had to go back through steves instructions to double check what you meant and the simple answer is; I didn't add the reference lines. I skipped the step with the gauge. basically, I cut out the wedges, cut out steves patterns and just lined up the sharp edge of the wedge with the pattern. I also didn't follow the patterns exactly. I allowed for the points on the conch to be a little longer so I could exaggerate them. this calls for slightly more detailing and sanding but does speed up the process a little bit. once your pieces make the 180 degree shape, you should be just fine cutting out the patterns and gluing them straight on
@@JohnathonWhittaker Yes, I wish Steve would revise his procedure manual for those of us that are just starting out attempting one of these shells. Every time I email Steve he tells me a statement in his manual no longer applies and he's made changes. Problem is that he is not telling anyone about these changes and I have to find them out the hard way. I slowed the speed down on your video and watched it again. I must say that I learn more from watching yours than Steve's procedure sheet. Another thing I noticed in your video is that you point the sharp edge towards the rear of the scroll saw when cutting. Steve insists that the sharper edge of the wedge must point towards you. I certainly hope he's correct in saying the scroll saw table must be tilted 12 degrees to the left. I emailed Steve last night about the sharp end of the wedge. Now he tells me that do not make it sharp as his directions state because he's noticing that it causes holes in the shell upon assembly. I'm cutting wedges this afternoon and will leave the sharp end about 3mm wide and not point sharp. Have you ever considered making a more lengthy video covering every step of the operation? I'll tell you this, many people would appreciate it. Have you checked out the Facebook page Steve created years ago? It's titled "Wooden Shells". Lots of good comments and tips from those who attempt these shells.
Have a good day and stay safe...........
@@rroe5718 I think his first basic steps are more than enough to go by, you just need to "wing it" a bit. I don't think its really possible with basic woodworking tools to get that kind of precision so anything between 12.5 and 14 degrees is fine. I always cut them to a very sharp edge, easier to assemble and smooth on the inside, plus much easier to cut on the saw! also with the scroll saw positioning, as long as you cut each piece the same way you will be fine. yes tilt to the 12 degrees, that gives a nice chamfer on the wood and helps everything get a more realistic shape. as for the videos, its hard to add in all the steps and keep the videos to a reasonable time. I think Steve was an engineer and describes things in a way that makes sense to him. I like to explain a little more, cover the different steps that I either eliminate or had a bit of a tricky time figuring out. yes I am on steves page and actually sent him this video before I published it. didn't want to seem like I was trying to steal his thunder at all. I like his creations and find them very satisfying to carve, but yes the instructions were a bit vague. I will try and do another video on shell making, see if I can make some of the steps a bit more clear. you have a good day to !
Great job! Just now seeing this, but I clicked the bell to get notifications right away next time. Cheers!
Cheers Steve! Glad you like it! Thanks.for making the pattern and showing us how.to make them
Johnathon, your video is just what I needed.Where to get a drawing
If you look up spiralsbysteve.com you can find this pattern and make more. Or Google Steve Garrison
Amazing work Johnathon!
thank you Andy!
Hi Jonathon,voted for you as header page for the FB Woodcrafts and Joinery page and now watched your video,fantastic work and will definitely be giving this stuff a try.Can I ask what blades you use in your scroll saw in the video please
Thank you and I generally use spiral blades, I find they give the cleanest cuts
Your work is an inspiration to me. Thank you so much!
thank you!
Apsolutely fantastic.jonathan..mezmerised ..
Absolutely amazing Johnathon. Definitely have to give this a go!!
these are so much fun to make and very satisfying to finish! definetly give it a try!
Hello Johnathon, finishing up a Nautalis shell and would love to try your process of staining it. Love those vibrant colors. Could you please clarify the process of applying the stain and then sanding it off and then reapplying later. Must be a good reason for doing it that way and would love to know. Thanks
Thanks for that, i know it seems unusual to add colour and then sand it 80 percent off but i find its a great way to blend and merge the different wood stains. Its takes away any lines and helps the colours come together more naturally. These wood stains tend to react to each other unless thoroughly dry. Basically i add a colour, apply a contrasting colour next to it and then sand where they meet. I then add a third colour to the sanded area and it helps melt the colours together. I have a few other videos on my channel that hopefully show the technique a little better. Also a good airbrush certainly helps
@@JohnathonWhittaker Thanks for the reply on this one. It now comes together and makes sense on the sanding procedure. You definitely have this procedure down to a science.
@@rroe5718 your welcome, mostly its just alot of experimenting!
Stunning mate 👍🏻
thank you Dave!
Hey Johnathan, -22 degrees F here in balmy Southern MN. Watching your video. Like the jig for cutting angles. Can be adapted for other projects. Keep trying to move forward into the carving but..... my snow plow quit, my mitersaw power switch is broken, my Bosch 3.3 hp router has an internal motor problem, oh yeah one of my 24 volt Bosch drivers stopped. Hmmmm????? And I'm inching forward. Maybe spring?
-22! Holy crap! At least the internet still works! Spring is coming!
LOL! Gonna be in 30s F Friday. Colder here than Antartica!
@@thomastieffenbacherdocsava1549 be safe and keep warm!
Just noticed new subscribers! Great!
Yes slowly building! I hope as my videos improve, That will increase. But whether I have thousands or just one, stilk going to keep making
love your work you make it look effortless quick question what is the make of soft sander that you used on your drill press?
Hi David, they are foam backing pads normally used in car polishing. I double them up and they are perfect for contour sanding and polishing. I will try and find a link for you
This is the type of thing. Called an interface pad for orbital Sanders www.amazon.co.uk/Interface-soft-Backing-Pad-125mm/dp/B00J36QUBU
looks great!!! hey it went so fast,but to me it looked like u stained the faces that u glue togather with? Wont that make a weak bond?
H8 Marla, I used Indian ink, absorbs nicely and leaves no residue. I have used it several times before and never noticed any decrease in the glue strength. I will check the brand name for you. But it.does give nice symmetrical black lines throughout the shell
H8 again Marla, the brand is speedball, super black Indian ink. Works great
Hi do you have any information on the jig. That you use.
Hi george, did you see steves video? I used the same concept, just made it from a solid block of wood rather than the material he did
Looks great! Thanks for showing so much of the process Johnathon.
I've just started making the wedge jig. Looks like you made your jig lighter and omitted the Corian piece? Works fine with the changes? Thanks again.
I made the jig in a U shape, that way I could change the angle with an internal wedge if needed. Longer term solution will be to bolts so that I can adjust to either increase or decrease the angle as needed. I didn't have access to corian so used pine instead. Worked just fine for me
If I can't figure out an easy way to do recessed nuts in this solid one, I'll use your U shape next time so I can easily accommodate bolts and be able to make different angles too. Thanks for sharing!
@@greenhiker the recessed nuts should be pretty ease, use a spade bit to sink it in. steves method is good, I just didn't have that much ply lying around