The flashing I like to use in cases like this is trim coil. Locally, I can find tim coil in the big box stores and the roof/ construction supply houses.
I had to custom order the metal for head wall flashing for my house. Nice thick metal. I put it in myself. And then when I next hired a reputable, higly recommended roofer they REMOVED this nice thick head wall flashing and ran off with it, and replaced it with a piece of very thin drip edge turned upside down!
So, there was a leak. But on the shingles, all the holes were caulked. You removed the shingles and observed that there was a joint gap and a hole and determined that the leak was through it. However, it was covered by shingles. How did the water get through the shingles??
In this case, we put a new piece of flat aluminum under all of the ripped and (holy) holey aluminum. We extended it out as far as the next shingle would be placed. Thereby correcting this issue.
@@highqualityhomemaintenance7565 thank you, the flashing on my house was beat up and had a leak, I replaced it yesterday and my fix seems to work(it rained all night and zero leaks). But before I started, I spent an hour or so looking for a video of a pro doing it but to my surprise there wasn't a single video on this topic( head wall flashing with siding on an existing shingle roof). Your video was the closest I could find, but unfortunately it doesn't show much in terms of how it was fixed.
Isn't it kind of dumb for a roofer to put the flashing UNDER the top row of shingles? (and then they NAIL the shingles into the flashing creating HOLES in the flashing for the rain water to get through). Shouldn't the Head wall Flashing (the more horizontal portion of the flashing) be laid on TOP of the top layer of shingles, and extend downward a ways? That way the water has no way to get under the shingles.
Its called the beauty row of shingles and if done properly won't leak. The flashing still extends on top of the shingles but you nail the beauty row on the flashing and ideally under the raised portion of an architectural shingle so no nails is exposed.
Gave you a thubs down. I rarely do that. All you did was rip off a shingle and tell us the flashing was bad. I am looking for a video that shows the ins and outs of replacing it. Does it need tar or an adhesive behind it? How do I get the roll of flashing to bend neatly?
Thicker flashing metal is difficult to find, in our disposable modern economy. THANKYOU----!
The flashing I like to use in cases like this is trim coil.
Locally, I can find tim coil in the big box stores and the roof/ construction supply houses.
I had to custom order the metal for head wall flashing for my house. Nice thick metal. I put it in myself. And then when I next hired a reputable, higly recommended roofer they REMOVED this nice thick head wall flashing and ran off with it, and replaced it with a piece of very thin drip edge turned upside down!
@eclipse-sh1qmZ3mOtcua . That really blows.
So, there was a leak. But on the shingles, all the holes were caulked. You removed the shingles and observed that there was a joint gap and a hole and determined that the leak was through it. However, it was covered by shingles. How did the water get through the shingles??
In this case, we put a new piece of flat aluminum under all of the ripped and (holy) holey aluminum. We extended it out as far as the next shingle would be placed. Thereby correcting this issue.
Here is a full tutorial video that I have.
ua-cam.com/video/cNCANyVPhsw/v-deo.htmlsi=7WPpzWvi_Wuaq3hw
Whats the point of showing the issue without showing how it was fixed ??
Do you have a problem with a roof leak that I can help you with?
@@highqualityhomemaintenance7565 thank you, the flashing on my house was beat up and had a leak, I replaced it yesterday and my fix seems to work(it rained all night and zero leaks). But before I started, I spent an hour or so looking for a video of a pro doing it but to my surprise there wasn't a single video on this topic( head wall flashing with siding on an existing shingle roof). Your video was the closest I could find, but unfortunately it doesn't show much in terms of how it was fixed.
@@3az3oz
Here's a similar flashing issue. ua-cam.com/video/KKpITPRqdQY/v-deo.html
Isn't it kind of dumb for a roofer to put the flashing UNDER the top row of shingles? (and then they NAIL the shingles into the flashing creating HOLES in the flashing for the rain water to get through).
Shouldn't the Head wall Flashing (the more horizontal portion of the flashing) be laid on TOP of the top layer of shingles, and extend downward a ways? That way the water has no way to get under the shingles.
ANd the Metal Flashing should be a THICK gauge of Metal so it doesn't tear so easily.
You are accurate on both points... but I see this all of the time.
Its called the beauty row of shingles and if done properly won't leak. The flashing still extends on top of the shingles but you nail the beauty row on the flashing and ideally under the raised portion of an architectural shingle so no nails is exposed.
Gave you a thubs down. I rarely do that. All you did was rip off a shingle and tell us the flashing was bad. I am looking for a video that shows the ins and outs of replacing it. Does it need tar or an adhesive behind it? How do I get the roll of flashing to bend neatly?
Look at this one. This is my full tutorial on the head flashing.
ua-cam.com/video/cNCANyVPhsw/v-deo.htmlsi=94b6FKmzWMPEVdi_
should've showed the fix.
Common Roof and Siding leaks fixed with proper flashing: ua-cam.com/play/PLb5icUwsa49RIN0i5cEOuP3XyVqLExJYV.html
Pretty sure you tore that flashing lol
Do you really think I tore that flashing?
You could've easily tore that flashing
Yes, that flashing is easily torn. I agree. That's why I love it, it generates phone calls. I 🫡