5 Minute Simple Bike Gear Tune-Up | Indexing, Cable Tension & Limit Screws
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- Опубліковано 18 жов 2024
- Got 5 minutes? Why not get your road bike's gears working perfectly! Jon has a few tips to tune up your front and rear derailleurs and get them working like new in just 5 minutes!
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Begin with your chain in the outer chainring, and shift until you’re in your hardest gear. Now, using a phillips head screwdriver set your outer or H-limit screw. The best way to do this is looking from the back of the bike, turn the limit screw until the jockey wheels sit just outboard of the smallest cog. This will help the derailleur shift easily into your hardest gear.
Shift the chain to the second smallest cog at the rear and the big ring up front. Without turning the pedals, shift up into the smallest cog. This will give you a bit of cable slack. Holding the derailleur, undo the bolt holding the cable in place, and pull through until the cable is tight, but don’t yank on it as hard as you can. Now turn the pedals to allow the chain to shift into your smallest cog. This should leave your chain shifting perfectly.
For the front derailleur you are likely to have an inline barrel adjuster to fine tune your indexing, when you move the shift lever. You want the cable to be nice and snug in the cable clamp with a good tension and then slowly turn the barrel of the adjuster to help with that finishing touch to make sure the derailleur responds to the movement of the lever.
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What part of your bike can we fix in 5 minutes? Let us know and we'll cover it if we can.
GCN Tech headset adjustment please 😉
Wheels
Hi Jon Great video (as always). Would love to see more videos about Hydro Disc Brakes and Electronic Gearing (Shimano for me). Thank you (I know there videos about this but would love to see some more whenever you can). Thank you
When checking the rear derailleur L stop, I push the mechanism by hand to make sure it doesn't go past the largest sprocket. This eliminates any cable issues which may mask a wrongly adjusted L screw.
Hamstrings please!
This guy was a swift addition to the GCN team, what a great lad he’s turning out to be.. keep it up!
@@angusowens1189😅😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😅
Yep, all nice and simple in theory. Took my front derailleur off once - took me six hours to get it working smoothly again
Same here, but I ended up in the local bike shop with a list of excuses 🤣
One mistake Jon: When you demonstrated how to adjust the front derailleur "H" screw, you forgot to shift to the small cassette cog at the rear derailleur. All you did was shift the front derailleur to the big chainring and, since your rear derailleur was still on the big cog, you were cross-chained when you adjusted the "H" screw. The thing that viewers need to understand is: Always shift the chain all the way to the inside (big cassette cog, small chainring) when adjusting the "L" screw and always shift the chain all the way to the outside (small cassette cog, big chainring) when adjusting the "H" screw. This is true whether you're adjusting the front derailleur or the rear derailleur. Do not adjust anything in a 2x or 3x drivetrain when you're cross-chained. Cheers.
Inherited a bike with shimano 105 but there is no limit screws on the front derailleur and the chain is rubbing on the lowest gear. How can I fix this?
@@rabg4774 adjust the b screw
@@tonymcnally9355 Turns out there was limit screws they were just filled with dirt so I missed them. I have tried adjusting them but seem to have only made the shifting worse but I will keep trying, cheers.
@@rabg4774 nah mate the limit screws adjust how far in and out to each side the derailleur can go. There is another screw separate called the b tension screw that determines how far up and down the derailleur can stretch
Thank you D. Eldon! I kind of figured this when I was doing the adjustment, and your comment confirmed my (inexperienced) approach
Thanks, Jon. Was having problems with the chain jumping around in the lower gears. Followed the steps in this video and viola! it’s all fixed! You’re a good man, Charlie Brown!
My 105 rear-shifter handle was causing gear changing troubles (small to big cogs not jumping or jumping in 2's). Bike shop couldn't fix it but I did; pulled on the brakes and moved gear shifter across which visibly exposes some of the innards - then blasted the insides with WD40 until it worked correctly; squeezed a pile of grease in with my fingers and it's been as-new for months now (I ride about 200km/week).
I sure do miss Jon. I used to watch him all the time when it became Ollie I stopped watching it at all. Such good instruction clear and competent.
Awesome video! It seems like every bike video I was coming across was waaaay too long and complex, but this was simple and straightforward.
I'd love it if Jon had a bike shop near me. Definitely a safe pair of hands I'd trust with my gear, you can tell he really cares.
aww, thanks Michael.
I will return to this many times. It’s very clever instructions. Thanks 🙏🏼
I've just fixed my problems by following these guidelines. Thank you!
Built myself a new cyclocross bike at the weekend from a new frame, and a set of spare parts i had from an hybrid where i damaged the frame, plus a chainset from ebay. 2x8 speed. Struggled to get the gears to shift properly at all, and i remembered one of the older/longer versions of this video, silky smooth now. Old sora shifters, with a new claris front mech and a deore rear mech (older mtb mech). All works perfectly together with the bontrager 750's and some 35mm cross tyres :)
This video has really helped me fine tune my derailleurs. Easy to follow and understand. Thank you GCN Tech!
Hey Jon,
When my bikes need a quick tune up, I check my low limit by hand before adjusting the Low limit screw. I always assume the limits screws are still set properly and if the chain isn't climbing to the lowest gear it's due to cable stretch. Whilst pedaling the crank, I try pushing mech towards the big cog by hand. If it goes to my easy gear, the limit screw is good. Then I skip to indexing.
This can make things either more or less than 5 minutes at the user's first go at it. Once they have this trick, it would be under a minute to tune/index gears if the H/L is confirmed to still be good.
Still, awesome walk through. Check your limits. Index gears. Go ride. Easy, peasy.
*Also, nice new 105 R7000 front mech. Not fair.
I think you might have done this before, but showing how to replace internally routed cables would be great.
They did that already too
2 years late, however this has never failed me: 1) pull out the shifting cable
2) put a spare wire througt which is plenty lon, if it is more than twice what the outer will be, even better.
3) pull out the housing. The spare wire shall be kept inside.
4) thread a new cable outer on the long line, if it's long enough put a stop on the end.
5)Then simply use the inner wire to pull the outer through the frame. Put the inner wire aside and install the new shift cable. Profit
Probably just a rear derailer adjustment needed but the bike pedals on my 10 speed bianchi start peddling by themselves so I have to take my foot off the pedals and apply hand brakes to avoid crashing. It doesn't seem to change gears but the chain looks very loose.
My back cassette gear was skipping your advice fixed it thanks a lot
Thanks for this helpful video. I need to adjust the gear shifting on my wife's bike and this will make it easier to do right. One request: show us what you're talking about when you mention a a part. E.g. derailleur hanger at 4:52... I see where you pointed but I wouldn't be able to identify the d.h. on a bike. Also cable stops at 0:17.
Man...this helped me out. I do this so infrequently that I by the time I need an adjustment I forgot the drill.
My Sora 3500 front shifter has a trim function and Shimano recommends setting it with chain on big in the front and big in the back with the chain just touching the inside of the front mech’s left plate.
Lovely video. Concise and to the point. Favourited.
My bug bear lies with limit screws and their soft threads. I don't even apply much pressure and they're ruined after 10 minutes of tinkering. Ridiculous!
I read that the shifter cable out of the rear derailleur should come out in a straight line before curving upward, as a curve straight out of the rear derailleur can cause shifting problems. It looks like on this bike, this cable is too short, as it immediately curves upward from the rear derailleur, and it should be longer so that straight line of cable (before curving upward) is there.
This guy looks like a bike version of Tony Hawk. And this information may be helpful for me in the near future.
Hi. This video is obviously aimed at those who already have a fairly advanced understanding of gears / bike maintenance etc and so was wondering if you could recommend a far more basic video i.e. one that can explain exactly what you need to do to make sure the gear cable is running smoothly / clear of grease gunk etc. In addition, seems like most of your videos are aimed at fairly high end road bikes. Can you recommend any that would be more suitable for a bog standard hybrid? Thanks
I love this new channel! Great stuff guys
wow I didn't knew there was a new channel :)
I assumed it was the normal GCN channel, and it was in my feeds...
Cheers Dominick! Plenty more to come.
Thanks! Basic but super helpful for us non mechanically-inclined riders :)
Could you do a vid on changing gear cables
Brilliantly explained.
Only minor gripe, on Indexing didn't explain which chain ring he was using for rear derail, looked like largest one, I think !
Still Gr8 Vid. 5***** in 5 mins :)
GCN Kings😀😀😀😀😀😀
Jon, a great how-to video. Keep them coming.
Plenty more on there way!
Wheel truing!
All good info, but mine doesn't go far enough up to the lowest cog even with adj screw all the way out. I have to loosen the cable, adjust, and retighten. Wish I could find a video that shows how to do a complete RD calibration.
Just what I needed for a reminder before my room de today. Perfect timing.
Hi John, thanks for this had the indexing fixed in those 5 minutes. Cheers, Paul.
Coming from a mtb perspective where 1x is common, a slightly different order than shown in the video is what i'd recommend:
If you have a front derailleur, start with that one, put the rear on the biggest cog, adjust lower limit like in the video. Put chain on biggest cog in the back, shift up, adjust upper limit as shown.
Then fine tune position of high gear on front derailleur as shown in Video.
Now to adjust the back:
First, check that the derailleur hanger isn't bent, can't adjust that, needs replacing/straightening, different topic.
If hanger is steraigt, continue with
Biggest chainring on front, shift to highest gear in back. Adjust lower limit so that it just stops trying to shift to the 2nd highest and is silent. (as in the video)
Then, adjust the indexing with barrel adjuster/whatever means to ensure proper shifting up and down the cassette, go to second lowest gear.
Push derailleur to the low limit and make sure it's too tight for now, to avoid chain dropping behind cassette and into spokes. Too tight means, won't properly shift to first gear. Gradually release until shift occurs smoothly, if 2 settings seem equally good take the tighter one.
That should be all. In everyday riding, the limit screws barely ever need changing once adjusted properly, even including cassette swaps. The shift cable might elongate slightly over time and the barrel adjusting might need to be updated once in a blue moon. If it's not noisy and shifts quickly, it's fine.
Congrats, by following this you have now achieved +1 to repair skills, +5 to ride quality and +1 to really hard earned cold beverage of your choice. Enjoy that one!
Great video thanks. Useful for my old bike. Di2 on the new one though..... It just works!
Which way to turn the barrel adjuster? Turn the top of the adjuster in the direction you want to move the chain. Simples!
But is it the same for the front in-line barrel adjuster?
At the front: I guess and look if the distance increased btween derailleur and chain (after pressing the shifter again). At the back I of course only do it when it wont shift upwards smoothly...so I turn the adjuster until it shifts...and when it doesn't im turning in the wrong direction :)
I don’t have the luxury of a front inline adjuster so I imagine I’d just have to do it by ear and guesswork.
Something else though, if I ever move the cable clamp, I’d always screw in the barrel adjuster and back it off about a turn. Cables don’t usually shrink! Of course Di2 solves all this, but brings its own issues to the work stand!
Excellent content! Every day I look forward to you pr videos on this channel and GCN.
Thanks J Dex for your support!
Thank you for the excellent video. Very informative, helpful and easy to follow. Stay well.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the support.
You guys should do a video on IS vs Post Mount vs Flat Mount for disc brakes!
On the rear derailleur; what is the 3rd adjustment screw called and when do you move it?
When I’ve adjusted mine it adjusts the jockey wheels higher/lower.
If on each front chainring is to be used only a part (~a half) of rear cogs, why You're indexing all of the rear cogs for (any)one front chainring? Should I asume that changing of all of the rear cogs will work perfectly on both front chainrings?
Hi GCN Tech and thanks for your precious videos. I have a question, I have a two years old Ultegra 6800, with internal routing in my handlebar... how can I fix the problem that my front derailleur doesn't "trim" ? Or big or small chainring no "trim" in the middle to adjust the smooth of the chain on transmission... what can I do? Thanks to everyone.
Just adjusted my front mech today, I've got it running great but to do so the barrel adjuster on the cable is wound all the way in. If I wind it out it the front mech rubs on chain. I've tried different things to try get it so the barrel adjuster has adjustment either way but just ends up at the end of adjustment
Thank you very much! Excellent video, very clear, already subscribed!!!!!
At the beginning of the video 2nd tip. 0.32 - 0.44, at this stage what number of gear should be showing on gear shifter? Please.
Jon is that the new 105 front mech? It looks different to the 105 5800 on my cross bike and I'm pretty sure I haven't seen that cable tension adjustment screw before...
Good video! Easy to understand and very practical. Thanks
I followed all the instructions but now when I'm on the large chain ring and larder rear cog I get chain rub on the FD inner front and the h screw is at it's limit
My biggest tip is to take out a small loan and get Di2! On a serious note, I can't add anything, this video was very helpful!
Thanks Casey - glad you found it informative
Thank you so much, you are lifesaver!🙌🏾
Quick question John - when adjusting the H limit for the FD, are you in the biggest or smallest cog on the rear?
When turning barrel derailleur how do you know which way to turn?? Neither feels like it's stretching the cable more...
Super guidance Jonny Tech, great service.
👌
What's the best way to ensure your derailer hanger is straight if you don't have one of those fancy tools?
Hello. good tutorial but I have a different problem that nobody wants to explain how to fix it. My rear derailleur is scratching gears with the chain. Looks like it almost squishing the chain between the casette gears and the derailleur gear. So i need to know, how to move the derailleur up and down, not left and right. And changing length of the chain didn't help. And I don't have any screw to move with it and fix it. Any help?
Quick Question: I have a 6 speed, which cog in the back matches the first gear for indexing? It's the smallest cog, right?
At 0:38 : How is this black plasic ferrule called , partly encapsulating the shifting cable between the cable tension screw and the cable "fixing" screw at the end?
It is not the normal Shimano Road bike ferrule, that is in the typical Shimano maintenance sets.
Can´t seem to find it or its name.
excellent explanation how to adjust it all, thanks!
I was hoping to get some insight on the B tension adjustment...
5 seconds in and i alread Liked it - thank you for not subjecting us to a big bullshit intro!
This was so helpful my chain was coming off the back when I shifted to the largest clog on the rear, took me more than 5 minutes but it's fixed now! Thanks
Thank you for this. Sub earned!
💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼 amazing video for new riders
Great short and helpful videos
One question - do you have one that shows and explains how to reduce the shifter movement - there are inline cable adjusters- looking for advice.
Wow superb
I have to do this almost weekly now commuting to work. 😩
Nice wheels (DT swiss Dicut) that look way more expensive than the bike (ally endurace?)
I thought the same.
Super useful vid! Thank you!
Thanks 👍 this is the way to do it .j but what about spacer after your caset wen your changing world.pat from Belgium 🚲👊
3 years later... and I got a question @GCNTech: Shouldn't the H limit on the front mech be adjusted in the hardest gear?
Yes!
Great video
Thank you
What is an ok alternative to Shimano parts, that are reliable, but affordable?
Thanks! Took me a little more than 5 minutes tho! 😂
Hi, my chain keep on falling off the rear derailleur lower pulley, it gets jammed in there. The deraileur is only a year old, with brand new chain.
Is it an issue if my front derailleur L screw is most of the way out and my H screw is most of the way in to prevent rubbing on either side?
Helped me a lot ! Thanks !
check the b screw also
Got another problem with my gears. There is no problem going from a smaller sprocket, to a bigger one. Problem comes when I won't to go back down again. It won't shift unless I tap twice on the level. Any help?
Hi John, Great videoclip on adjustment. Looking to turn my Boardman hybrid MX Comp into a sort of gravel bike for a bit of bike packing. Would like to change flat bars to drops etc. Any chance you can run some projects that cove start to finish things like this at all?
I Miss Jon
Wouldn't you do the rear derailleur limit screws before installing the cable?
My cannondale is having a tough time going from the small sprocket to the big one and won’t shift sometimes bike brand new I’ve had it about a month it’s got shimano 105 group do you think it could be need to tighten the cable?
It's much easier to set the RD limit screws with the chain off and the cable disconnected. You can eye it much easier without the chain and shift using your hand.
thx you were very helpful
Why do I have two barrel adjusters on my bike for the rear derailleur? One on the derailleur itself and another on the frame.
Fix something in 5 minutes? Sacrilege!
Open a beer, contemplate the beauty of your bike... Forget what you were supposed to do, then do something else :)
Take the time and enjoy the silence.
😂🍻
Great!
Is it common to have to reindex switching from an 11s hub with spacer/10s cassette to a regular 10s hub with 10s cassette?
Yeah I'm gutting a 105. Semi compact. Thats me fkd on the hills
Just going to restrain myself from doing this. Last time I tried it cost me my front derailleur
Great vid jon. Clear and informative. Cheers.
👍
My bike won't stay in the highest gear. The H screw is out as far as it will go and I've tried adjusting the cable. Anybody know what's wrong?
Is this the new 105 front derailleur? I notice that my 105 front doesn't have some of the screws that yours does.
Why has the mid range bike from the comparison videos yesterday have a set of DT swiss wheels that cost significantly more than the bike? Clue to a future episode?
They have heaps of spare wheels at their disposal? (beats riding shallow rimmed low spec wheels when you can ride nice ones!)
I have a Simano 105 groupset on my road bike. I've had my front deraillure set correctly at my local bike shop. Once setup the shifting is perfect with no chain rub.
The roads that I ride on are quite bad and full of pot holes and rough surfaces. Despite being as careful as I can with the bike after a few days riding the chain starts to rub again on the deraillure cage.
Is it normal to keep adjusting the front deraillure to avoid chain rub?
I've tried trimming the gears to move the cage a tiny bit but this never seems to make any difference.
I nearly always check the tension of my gearing cables before starting, especially at the front I often have to turn the barrel adjuster at the front 2 times so my front derailleur isn't touching the chain), so I'm not annoyed when started, together with the brakes position (it's not uncommon I had my wheels out for cleaning, put them back in and didn't check if there are nicely centered).
Hi Jon
Indexing my gears thanks to your vid, but I have an issue when pedaling backwards, particularly in the smallest cog - the chain seems to be stretched or not falling onto the teeth properly.. New (200km) kmc chain on a 6000 rear derailleur, 11-30 Ultegra cassette, dura ace 52-36 front.. Any ideas?
I have a turbo trainer (that I've not been using enough) with the same casette bought at the same time. Similar wear. I bought a new chain to swap every few hundred kms to keep the wear similar.. Time for a change? #askgcntech #thanksalotjoncannings #askgcn
How to true a wheel please
Tip for people in UK don't go to halfords show them your bike and they sell you a shimano chain when you have a SRAM crank and gears
If only it was that simple. Last time I attempted trying this the gears ended up being all over the place and a trip to the bike shop was needed. Was without a bike for over a week! Just one job I can't get my hear around
Steve Norris just in that exact same process myself just now. I like to think I can fix almost anything but bike gears frustrate the life out of me and I can never get them just right. So it's in the LBS and my male pride diminished