when i was a kid (12-16) i built a Model A and one of the Model A owners in the club would always say "you don't know shit" well one day I had enough and said "you can't screw anything up if you never do anything". this guy had just bought a finished Model A, but read every book there was to read as I built one from the ground up
my dad worked for a cobbler many years ago. The cobbler told him, "If you ever get to where you aren't making any mistakes at all, let me know and I will give you your final pay. You don't make any mistakes when you don't do the work, and I need someone willing to work and learn."
MUY buena calidad, el texto imagenes. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO Un manuel muy completo y trabajado. Resulta muy práctico. Para principiantes y profesionales. Lo recomiendo
I thought the big mistake was having a budget on your own house... I picked up a house 25 years ago that had good bones (really, not like the original house in this series!) but needed a lot of TLC. I had a lot of people ask me what my budget was for the work. I told them I had no budget. It will cost what it costs as I discover problems, change my mind, and as tastes change. Here I am 25 years in and I recently ripped out the half of the interior I hadn't ripped out previously to "fix" things that I thought could be better after living in it for 25 years. In the end I'll have completely gutted the house inside and out, replaced about 60 linear feet of exterior walls, and made some floor plan changes. I have no idea what I've spent... and don't really care! My house is one of my hobbies as well as a place to live and raise my family. My only goal is that it's "done" before I die so my sons aren't left having to finish it. ;~)
Nice "man up" job, admitting your mistakes. It would have been really easy to bury most of those mistakes and only the keenest of viewers would have noticed. I'm very impressed with the lengths you go to. You really want to teach others to make them better builders.
I've watched quite a few videos from Matt & other builders. And while I do find them knowledgeable, it juts hit me how many chemicals go into modern construction. Wether it be waterproofing, weather sealing etc. And it makes me wonder if there is a better way to build without so many chemicals. I mean I know some iccf claim to be eco due to the recycling of eps. Then on the other spectrum there's cob and stabilize earth etc. Makes me think carefully about what I want for my family in our home build.
I think keeping the 6'8" header is important because it aligns with the height of the other windows. If you raise it, the door will stick out and look like a mistake imho. I really appreciate your willingness to share these mistakes - that's where learning happens!
@@Davey768 too many mistakes means you're either inexperienced or the job is not a good fit. For example, I couldn't serve tables to save my life. I spent years trying, even my manager couldn't understand why I sucked so bad. I finally left the restaurant business, got a job turning wrenches and was one of the best, still made mistakes but within reason.
Love when you post videos of your mistakes. It's great to know that even a builder with your experience still has a mistake from time to time. That's part of building and remodeling...identifying mistakes early on and hashing out a plan to correct them. Builders have to be great problem-solvers above nearly anything else. We've all made our fair share of mistakes, but thank you for making videos of yours so that we can all learn from it and hopefully avoid similar issues on our jobs. Great job on your house so far! It's looking great and I've enjoyed following your video series as you build it and explain the build science behind your plans.
So, a question for your main level header heights: You raised the ceiling height to 9', and you said your header heights are 6'8"... but then you said you are insulating and raising the subfloor. Was this subfloor thickness accounted for in the original header placement? if not, they have to raise up anyways
That was the first question I had as soon as he introduced his mistake. Forget about whether 6'8" will look well with 9' ceiling, the real question is, since I'm raising the floor, when do the schedule the framer to raise the headers?
I think when he said "I changed them from 8' to 9' ceiling height..." he may have been saying it was a field adjustment during framing. There may not have been a lot of thought put into it aside from adjusting the stringers. THe insulated floor idea probably came about in the process, but again, wasn't thoroughly thought out. So the opening layouts likely didn't say AFF. I'm assuming that's why he's embarrassed because as a pro he knows not to proceed without doing the homework. Depending on the room layout, I'd make a step down (3' x Width) and use a flooring that helps it stand out. Maybe frame in a couple 2x6 knee walls on the ends to help with the occasional stumble. Put an oversized sill top on them for setting items when you need to free up your hands. Idk
re: Header Heights - No worries Matt. I would leave them as they are. The residences I design are typically 9’-0”, and often 10’-0”, at the 1st floor. So, it’s not too uncommon to have 18”+ of wall above headers (unless I’m spec’ing tall transoms). Here’s my suggestion... When you trim the interior, spec generously-sized flat trim boards, such as: 1x8 baseboard* 1x4 side casing 1x6 head casing 1x6/8 trim board at location of crown molding... to replace crown molding or use in conjunction with a crown (or cove) molding, which is then set against the face of trim board. - For ex, a cove molding scaled to 2/3 or 1/3 the height of trim board. * 1x8+ baseboards also allow for location of outlets within them... a clean look. These trim boards give purpose to the amount of wall space above headers. And, they add character. You can choose to keep things simple, for a more contemporary look. - For ex, I’ll spec a 1x8 baseboard, and only call for a chamfer along the top outside corner to mitigate dust collection. - I’ve even used a flat piece of trim in place of crown or cove molding... set at angle to the face of the 1x6/8 trim board. Just chamfer the lower inside corner to butt against the trim board, and then decide how you want the top of this trim piece to meet the ceiling. I’ve rambled too long. Apologies. If you’d like a few example sketches, send me an email: chadcooper3927@gmail.com I really enjoy your posts. They help me keep pace with new products... especially insulation, and applications.
Chad Cooper, I agree. Not worth it from my perspective. Trim choices can help it look better if it bothers you. This is perhaps a good time to get together (virtually) with your interior designer. They can possibly do walkthroughs with the different windows and different interior trim to help you with your decision.
If you are worried about a large expanse of space between the high ceiling and windows that could be taller but are not taller, do this: install a "plate rail" along the wall above the windows. Display decorative plates. It works. A more general comment: Many homes have "great rooms", that is, a family room with a 1.5 story cathedral ceiling. It's a great concept, but if you look at a number of homes with a critical eye, you will notice one thing: Life in the room __stops__ at a certain height. That is, furniture, bookcases, paintings are all only a maximum of six or seven feet tall, and then it's this big expanse of blank wall space between the ceiling and down where life starts. A good designer can work to reduce this. Three ideas: (1) a palladian window on an exterior wall with a peak, (2) continuing the brickwork up to the ceiling on an interior wall, (3) extra tall bookcases lining another wall. If you need a photo, ping me (I'm a homeowner, not a designer, so it will be amateur). Otherwise, thanks for sharing. I'm wincing along with you, but I'll never knock you. Cheers!
I have 9 foot ceilings and a 5 panel slider at 6'8. It actually looks perfectly balanced with the room. I wouldn't incur the cost or headache of changing it. Plus, you'll be the only one who will worry about it. Thanks for the great video.
Leave the 6'8" height. With your overhangs, the amount of addition light would not be worth the cost and delay to me. I would suggest looking at a thicker casing and/or crown to utilize the additional space. You are just losing a view of the soffit from inside the house. On the outside of the house, do a soldier course of brick or another detail. I would also be hesitant about causing building delays due to the Coronavirus. We do not know what the manufacturer, delivery, etc may experience in delays from day to day. It only takes one person to test positive before the plant gets shutdown for deep cleaning. And then you never know how many people would be able to go back to work. Additionally, you don't know when things will slow down further on the build site. It could be something as small as an inspector's family member to get a fever to throw a wrench in the plans and timeline. I would suggest getting dried in as quick as possible. The job can stop at anytime and we are getting into rainy season.
Hocus Pocus I agree with what your saying about a soldier course of brick. It’ll address the space and really add to the view of the elevations. I’ve designed many commercial buildings and a lot of custom homes. Soldier course and Hering bone patterns in the elevations, to fill a space and dressing up a chimney, are really eye catching and add a lot to the house.
I agree. The 9' ceilings I have seen had standard height doors. My current home has 10' ceilings downstairs with taller doors and transoms above the windows. The 2nd floor has 9' ceiling with standard doors and no transoms.
I have three "windows to nowhere" in my house. I also have a door to nowhere. Two of the windows are framed for a door that will be installed at a later date as I am building myself in stages. One window is completely buried in the wall and will be opened up this year and a stained glass window will go in, and lastly a door is framed in for a future addition. I'll be taking one of the widows out this spring and replacing it with a door to the flat roof over the addition I built last year. I am going to put a Bison Pedestal deck on top of that when time and money allow 😊
the Framer we used to use before he had a stroke once told me while I was on a jobsite he always puts his window headers as high as possible (basically directly under the top plate) then frames down to the window opening height, so should some one want to install taller windows/doors down the road there is no reframing required.
“Design is a process”. I’m an architect and my daughter always reminds me that I said that to her a long time ago on one of her house projects. It continues after you start on site. However the more you draw of the house in all sorts of cross sections furniture plans and details at the design stage the less these mistakes will happen. So pay your architecting a decent fee so that he can do that and make sure he does. And have what we call Play-Dough in your budget so that you can continue to make changes when you see the building on site. In the instance of your house Matt, the room on plan is obviously not going to fit a bed in the configurations it was if you don’t want the bed under the window. However from my experience in my house which I bought and didn’t design, in our bedroom we ended up with a bed head under a window and it’s fine with modern glass we don’t get a downdraught and actually we are thankful that we get ventilation very close to us in the hot parts of the summer and the stuffy the parts of the winter so you could actually have joined the three windows together as one and had it with the bed head underneath. Anyway I absolutely love your videos. We don’t do much site built timber framing in the UK, and all the techniques of waterproofing and the materials used are quite new to us. unfortunately we can’t get many of them here so we have to improvise with other things but a lot of the principles you describe are rock-solid.
New Header Heights: On our apartment builds 4 years ago we started placing the header right under the top plate with cripples to window height. This allows the option that you are confronted with today. We Moved to 9' walls 6 years ago for a huge improvement. Be Blessed.
Lol “It’s only a mistake if it’s catastrophic” -Elon Musk I remember always feeling like I wanted to quit on my way home after days when I made $3,000+ mistakes when I first began-I’m a framer myself, I’ve gotten over that but nevertheless they really do suck
@@steveatx8295 Typically 10% to 20%. We just finished remodeling our church educational building. The building had not been touched (except paint and carpet) in close to 50 years. Lots of unknowns and the things we did know weren't good. We had a 30% total contingency and spent every last bit. (I was not the contractor.) Several years ago I built a MIL/Guesthouse on the site of a home I built many years before. I knew the customer, the site and the plan well. I used a 7% contingency and we finished at around 5%. It really depends on the job, how complex, finish level, and confidence level.
It is cliche to say “it depends” but it’s so true. I can’t add 10-20% on a track home but on a custom home with a very high risk and degree of difficulty-atleast 10%, it’s necessary. Remodels are also a different ball game, there is always an unseen thing. Especially when dealing with structural tie-in and changes of the existing one. And in that case it’s not just carpentry errors but planning errors. I wouldn’t do a remodel with less than 15% and maybe as high as 40%. For example I’ve done jobs where we take out all the supporting walls of a building and replace / raise them. There are a lot of contingent factors there compared to say a simple load-bearing wall removal.
Really enjoyed this video. I hate how perfect other companies and UA-cam channels pretend their company to be so that they can look like the best. Real Honest video.
keep the 6'8" headers in the back. Once its finished, nobody will even notice. It'll be fine. It'll keep you humble. See it as your "Amish" mark. When the Amish make furniture, They do it so perfectlythat they turn it over and mar it with a hammer ...because ONLY God is perfect.
@@ebog4841 Thats what Ive been told. I may have Amish and Mennonites mixed up as paper burn said below. We have both here in Tennessee that make furniture. They do awesome work for sure.
Keep the 6’ 8” headers. Perhaps some indirect lighting strips above the windows, sending light upward and bouncing light off the ceiling will add some unique and pleasant lighting.
@@c.blakerockhart1128 That too. From a professional standpoint, Matt is the builder, she is the homeowner. This is the homeowner's call. The builder should not make this decision.
@@c.blakerockhart1128 actually just got married 5 months ago. Planning a full gut reno and addition. I'm a modernist / minimalist, she's into antiques . Wish us luck.
I'd leave the headers, but next time reverse the header with the jacks so that the header is tight to the top plates. That way its an "easy" fix to move them up or down without touching the header. I've changed way too many R.O.'s because of an architects "vision".
the funniest part of this video is when you had the audacity to say your three sons will be sharing a room, and when your daughter leaves you’ll take her room as an office. doesn’t matter how friendly you are with siblings, every now and then you want alone time.
Stick with 6'-8" you can do an architectural header to give the illusion of a taller window. I've got a production home with 10' ceilings and 6'-8" headers. It's okay.
This. Depends on kind of trim you plan to use but there are some nice craftsman style over door trim details you should consider. If you had 10 ft ceilings you can add a panel above the door that mimics the idea of a transom. (That wouldn’t work over your slider, but the craftsman treatment would)
@@PorterFuqua I don't agree with the 6'8 header on the slider door since people will be transitioning through it. And if you move that up, but don't move the others up then the top of the windows don't match with the top of the door, keeping that nice clean line. You could move the larger slider door one up and keep the others the same level if you're ok not having that clean line across the top. I bet the architect would def. want those to be the same line come across the house.
Sketch App I meant that a panel wouldn’t have a nice proportion if you made one to go over the whole width of a slider. I was talking about what to do to make 6’-8” appear taller with a 9’ ceiling. I think we are on the same page, don’t want to change the header around the room or elevation.
Aaron Dahl agreed. I have 10’ walls in my house to with 6’8 doors. It doesn’t bother me. My windows are 6’ tall to, so they extend well above the top of the doors with the header at 8’.
Matt your problem is not the fact mistakes were made the problem is that you don’t have controls in place to assure conformance within your build process. Your statement was the process of building a home is not relative to manufacturing a vehicle in a factory. But that is where, you’re mistaken. You are operating a manufacturing factory, it’s just located “on site” Using the title “Builder” and not the title “Manufacturer” is where you thinking caused failure in your process controls. Constructing a home is a “manufacturing” process. In the manufacturing quality world we refer to this as “Transformation” and “Product Realization” …. In the home manufacturing process, you have expert teams of skilled operators or workers, many times these are referred to as “Subs” So, you as the builder (Project Manager) need to be coordinating with your “Sub Team Leads” … this appears to be a weak spot in your process, how many times per week do you sit with your Sub team leads and review manufacturing planning for specific phases of the project? At this point you and your Sub team leads should be creating a check list to cover the completion of a Task, Phase, Sub Phase of the project. Further, when any one project phase or sub phase is complete, do you review the results with your Sub Team Leads to see if the requirements have been satisfactory completed? Are your Sub team Leads filling out a checklist to assure the prior agreed upon plans have been met? …. Do you have a “Sign Off” control, not only after work is done but before any work is done, so you know the Sub team leads are clear about the expectations? These are all simple process management tools, which allow the relative manufacturing processes to be “Controlled” so mistakes are eliminated before they occur. Your window marking activity is one type of control, however, it’s only successful IF the Sub lead understands your window identification process, he removes the tag after installation, and places it on a check sheet representing where his team installed the window, where you have placed a respective numerical identification, that matches the one found on the window. The control is that the sticky note ID matches the check sheet. I would suggest using tape to assure the sticky notes are not easily removed. A verbal verification of the window ID to the check sheet will also help the Subs not make mistakes, as will a window opening identification mark that matches the note. Example: (Mast 01A) is a master bedroom window opening that matches the sticky note you placed on the window which indicates (Mast 01A), it’s a confirmed match. You might also have notes on the check sheet indicating how you desire the window to be installed and sealed. Preparation and control, resolves non-conformance. Afterword, You and the Sub Lead review the results of the Master BR window install, if the job is satisfactory then that Sub moves on to the next task. You the note on your project that Master BR window install is complete (sub process of the overall manufacturing of the home) …. Your Sub team Leads should be doing the same with their people, so the expectation is very clear from the top to the bottom of the manufacturing operation. This is your job Matt as the top management of the manufacturing operation. You can’t assume your guys “Have this” you must continually verify, and document the results as meeting requirements.
Buy in. Getting the entire crew. every guy... even the guys with the broom, to really care, to be emotionally and intellectually involved and care about every detail- is the key. I have no idea how to accomplish it but in my opinion that would be the key!
dude as a guy who does mostly interior stuff , this is fascinating! The stuff you're doing is crazy and I love ya for it. No suggestions cause I have no clue about this stuff but keep it going. Shout outs from Houston!
Hmmm. "Been there, done that". As to the lower header height.... glass/light & view kinda trumps anything. I'd do the math on labor re-work and new units and ponder if you can tolerate the hit to order taller windows and the big slider. Maybe you can sell the un-installed units and capture a few bucks.
exactly why I took my plans and had the whole house panelized in a factory. The .house was like a gig saw puzzle and was in the hdry in 5 days...builder then screwed up the exterior details...so its a tough thing building a perfect house
It would be great to do some videos with the building inspector, seeing what they are looking for and verifying the work is done correctly and to code.
@@iwasabigdeel7895 perhaps in your city. I was a B.I. for 3.5 years and tried very hard to present a cheerful persona. Our approach: it doesn't matter who is right or who is wrong. What matters is the work is compliant with the code!
I'd leave the window and door headers at 6'8". I did the same thing on my house and it looks decent. Besides, raising the headers would increase the window sizes and give you more low insulation value glass surface.
Those windows - adopt a term used widely in the high tech & software world: "undocumented features"! :D IMHO there isn't really any reason to change the windows, the advantage of the high ceiling will still be there, and you may actually not want the top of the windows to be higher, if that side gets sunlight or glare. Also consider Christopher Alexander's observation that one of the reasons people tend to like living in "vernacular architecture" better than architectural designs is the added "coziness" - we like to feel protected and enclosed. The high ceilings won't change that but bigger windows might actually make the space less comfortable.
If you use Virtual reality technology, you can avoid any mistake in any shape or form. We create 3d model of the project then generate a Virtual reality model of the Building . You can use your cell phone with a cardboard google box to walk inside your digitally constructed building and pinpoint any mistake before lifting any finger.
Edge loss at the slab is significant. Why do you not run the exterior foam insulation down over the slab, to some minimum distance below grade? It is pretty easy to do a cladding change somewhere near grade, and use factory finish metal to cover the foam that covers the slab edge, down to below grade. We have done this for years, on full basements. Then you have the choice of using or not using the thermal mass of the slab for interior environmental control. Strikes me as odd to do the "Perfect Wall" at the wall/ roof interface, and completely stop the "Perfect Envelope" at the top of an above-grade slab. I would also be thinking along the lines of a sealant bead at the wood sill/ concrete interface, and then use a membrane material over the joint, to insure a permanent seal (better able to accommodate shrinkage/ movement in the different materials being joined).
As a long-time professional builder, Matt as a "client" may not be #1 on my list of client types to avoid, but he is certainly up there. Once the decision was made to scrap the "fixer-upper" scenario, then everything should have been stopped, and a complete and comprehensive program developed for going forward, then the plans drawn and detailed per that program. Backing into situations ALWAYS leaves one making compromises of aesthetics, quality, performance and durability that would not have to be made if one stepped back the full extent in one big step. Basically, once you have done something once, it is a dilemma as to whether to pay for it three times over, to do it the way it really should have been done, and short-term economics takes on far greater weight in the decision making process. Mea Culpa may sound attractive or elicit empathy, but it does not negate the fact that this project was not properly managed from the get-go. I do not see anything here that could not have been anticipated and dealt with well, in the planning stage. And this is from someone who always builds to standards as high, if not higher, than Matt does. In my milieu, the client's attorneys would figure out how to earn some substantial fees for a job proceeding as this one is (and actual blame is largely irrelevant here, I might add). Quality is remembered long after price is forgotten.
I would redo it Matt. Your a high end builder and this is your show case. If you your like me, every time you will be in that room you will have regrets.
Re: header/windows - I think leave the windows how they are with the 9’ header. I imagine changing it would not have much of an impact either visually, nor in terms of increased light. So it’s probably not worth the added cost. If you were to make a change, I think putting a 3rd window centered inbetween the other two windows would make more of an impact and probably cheaper. However, not knowing your kitchen layout, I assume that may not be an easy option either as it may affect cabinet or appliance layout.
My wife, the interior designer, said that if you want to utilize the widows you have, you could lower the existing windows, and add a narrower transom window above.
Dibs on extra windows. Box them up for me buddy. Or next time you're in Arizona, swing by and I'll show you my build. ....and where those windows are going.
I can't find if you have a video detailing your secondary window flange waterproofing. I see in this video at 6:55 you built the windows out for insulation but curious how you finish that window detail. Looks like a fun window install.
Matt, love your honesty & humility. Your willingness to help us all learn from your mistakes & insight is becoming a rare thing these days.. Thanks, ChrisB (Auckland, NZ)
The window there would have been more of an energy loser than the header in the wall :) People think windows have decent r-values but they kinda suck so balancing aesthetics and energy efficiency is a full time job :) So the california corner worshipers might not be happy :) but you actually saved energy by closing the window.
The 6'8 feels a bit cookie cutter for me, being a house you a builder live in I would 100% get it fixed if you can afford it and if it's what you want. If you weren't a builder I'd say keep it and save the money
Leave the window height as it is. By the way... your architect didn't have in mind the standard furniture of the rooms? That's not right! unless you were thinking of something quite unique and didn't tell him, or didn't check the furnished plans, at all.
"What happens when you build your own house is you keep making changes and the costs go up" - Paraphrased Matt Risinger quote. Leave the kitchen and family room windows alone. Go with the plan (another paraphrased Matt quote I think).
Can you put a small transom over the windows to match the height would add cost but might be an option. I would definitely go for the taller doors whenever possible. Did the architect make 3D model so you can see perspectives from the inside.
Make the windows and door larger. Order new windows and eat the cost. Otherwise, for the next decade you will walk around your home regretting being cheap. Install the windows and doors you ordered in the next house you do and give a discount.
You must have at least one window in each bedroom that complies with the Emergency and Escape and Rescue code per 2018 IRC Section 310.1 - Your architect should know this stuff. The required window must have a net clear opening height of 24" and a net clear opening width of 20" and also must not be less than 5.7 square feet except for grade-level windows which are only required to be a minimum of 5.0 Square Feet. From what I saw in the video it doesn't look like any of those window sizes will comply with this part of the code. Sorry if this seems trivial to anyone. I'm a city building inspector and this is something we watch for all the time. It's part of what we call fire, life, and safety compliance.
The only issue I see here is going to come from you because you know of the issue. Anyone else won’t notice the “problem”. So think about you sitting there years from now looking at the height and thinking to yourself “dang, I should’ve fixed this long ago”.
Glad to see professionals like you make mistakes too. Makes me not feel as bad with my silo house build. I literally came up with a better way to install my windows after I edited and published a video on it . You the man still when it comes to building technology 👍🏼.
Im curious as to why you chose to use a single layer of 2" rigid insulation on your exterior walls which leads to heat loss at every seam and railroad tracking on your siding material ,if you would have went with two layers of 1" thick rigid foam your 2nd layer could be staggered to cover all joints in the 1st layer ,im sure you know these issues so why the single layer of rigid exterior insulation vs 2 layers ?
Change the door heights. You'll soon forget the financial pain but long remember the mistake if you don't. Surprised JenWeld won't do you a solid and take 'em back - those have to be fairly common sizes. I wouldn't consider these big mistakes - you pivoted a massive amount from a small remodel to a new-build - issues bound to happen because you really needed months to get the details right that you didn't have. The sill-to-foundation detail was more a pita than a problem. A few man-hours and a few tubes of Contega isn't the end of the world - $500 perhaps? Fwiw, I'm not impressed with Contega HF - the stuff shrinks when cured (maybe 30-50%?) and loses quite a bit of it's tackiness. Surprisingly, Green Glue Compound (not Green Glue Sealant) really works well as an always-flexible acoustic sealant - I'd say it is the equivalent to Tremco's black death in long-term stickiness, but a much more eco-friendly material. And it's 1/3rd the price and a lot more readily available. All my interior air sealing will be with Green Glue Compound
I would raise your header and add a transom window to lengthen your current windows and make it look better once finished. If left at 6'8" I find when the space is finished the windows look odd and squat. Just food for thought. BTW..Love your channel! Cheers
Matt: At the beginning of this series, you mentioned you were going to do a ZIP 1.5 (instead of 2.0) with limited use of liquid flashing on the OSB. Why aren't you using ZIP System Liquid Flash for the OSB/foundation interface? Also, why are you using wood extensions around your windows instead of the ThermaBuck product? Thanks!
@@stewmeat9261 I'm sure its because Matt is sponsored by both companies. Fast Flash is way better stuff than the zip liquid flash, however, my rep has told me not to mix and match because Huber does not warranty the system that way. Fast Flash is probably a better install and will get him the same results the problem is for us normal builders you're out on the warranty.
If this is your own house, how do i get you to build my next house. Your attention to detail and eye for these mistakes makes me weary of supervising a build myself lol
You’re missing hundreds of thousands of subscribers that can’t relate. Do an actual middle-class remodel (or several) that people can follow. The perfectionist thing is fine if you have the money for it - most don’t.
I would spend the money and change them, hear me out: once you move in, every time you walk past those windows, you'll notice the mistake, and if you plan on living there for a while... Also, maybe you can buy the framers lunch to fix the opening for free!
Never hire amateurs, you are not a real tradesman, go to school, learn the basics, &get some common sense. Stop issuing these statements, as others think you are qualified.
This was one of my favorite parts of reviewing plans from our architects. I was a residential/light commercial carpenter for over ten years before getting my engineering degree and working as an estimator/ project planner. The prettiest plan is a fail if it cannot be build right. It is hard for non-conduction designers to think in three dimensions rather than plan view 2D.
I can see how this approach led that to end up happening. Keep in kind; it started as a remodel, and he does plan to stay there for quite some time. But I myself would look at anything like this as more of an investment to make sure I can get out of it at a gain - so I agree.
At 14:45 in the video you appear to have used about 8 full length LVL studs clustered together between the door and window. Why use 8 studs and not just one say 8x4 LVL vertically as the stud?
I would say leave the 6’-8” headers. But if you really want that extra glass and light, you could add 12” to 14” transoms to all windows and doors. Most window manufacturers will give you mull options for the specific wind climate.
The high ceiling/low window dilemma might be solved by displaying artwork and/or decorative pieces from the period when the home was originally built. In nice, decorative clusters, of course. Extra little bonus there: tschotschkes from the 70s & 80's are dirt cheap at thrift stores & yard sales. Take a handful of mismatched pieces & spray paint em all the same color. The shapes are enough of a late mid-mod hint to not leave them the original color. We're not talking about Grandma's Rookwood vase, here, so who cares if you prime & paint them.
Re: "room between window and roof"...you are lucky you don't get snow in Austin. Up here in Canada (depending on the region), you could easily get as much as 4 feet of snow build-up on roof when it's up against a wall. Those windows would be totally blocked by snow, and that, as you can appreciate, is not a good thing.
الحمدلله والشكر لله بفضل الله ودعواتكم أمي الان بصحه جيده ربي يحفظ ويوفق كل شخص شارك بالدعاء الي نزلته تحياتي الكم من القلب اللهم لا تشوفون مكروه بعزيز وخاصه الام 🙏
I've just started getting into architectural design, had some spare time so thought I'd dabble. I'm coming from the product design world....anyway, I'm noticing it get's very complicated, very quickly, I'm surprised there are not more issues when building residential homes.
Stick to the windows also keep in mind anything which is CUSTOM order cost a lot more. Look down the road 10 years you may want to replace them so stick with standard sizes. BUT do me a BIG favor. Put some Steel into your house don't trust the LVL. They are bad bad in design of wind load and water. Use a few square 1/4 4" square steel tubes and get them into the foundation drilled best on the inner wall's where you can I would say even 4 or so up to the roof rafters put in. It will stiffen your house and eliminate your Wood flexing. Trust me I building since 30 years with a German standard houses and the 2-3k you pay extra will make a major difference down the road because those 4" square tubes will not shrink or move like wood does so your 10year down the road possible glue separation on floors will not happening because it is kept at the same levels. Also I see your stair railing..... put some C channel into it to stiffen it... your 2 by will give to much and will give you trouble down the road too.
Matt, I had an 8ft double door that I reduced to 6'8" plus a transom. The original door was blasted by direct sunlight in a non-overhang area of the house on the back patio which saw a lot of traffic and wore out fast. With taller ceilings make sure that you can move taller/wider furniture, countertops and Christmas trees through them easily.
I am a retired builder, seen it all, remember this. It's not a mistake unless it can't be fixed. It's what I called a learning lesson. Just like all education you get in life, it isn't free and takes time. Also to heal your pain a little, remember that the only contractor that doesn't make a mistake is the one not employed to build! Enjoy your show!,,
Is there anytime where a builders ever get thing perfect I don’t think it’s possible because there always thing changing in the why thing can be done and people in general don’t like change and it take a long time for people to try thing
The guy that never made a mistake, never made anything
Measure twice, cut once... then realize you designed wrong and do it again, lol.
when i was a kid (12-16) i built a Model A and one of the Model A owners in the club would always say "you don't know shit" well one day I had enough and said "you can't screw anything up if you never do anything". this guy had just bought a finished Model A, but read every book there was to read as I built one from the ground up
dumb mistake #6 - thinking 3 growing boys are going to be able to all sleep in the same room without any issues
Hands have never had a callous, just a paper cut a couple times
my dad worked for a cobbler many years ago. The cobbler told him, "If you ever get to where you aren't making any mistakes at all, let me know and I will give you your final pay. You don't make any mistakes when you don't do the work, and I need someone willing to work and learn."
MUY buena calidad, el texto imagenes. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO Un manuel muy completo y trabajado. Resulta muy práctico. Para principiantes y profesionales. Lo recomiendo
Admitting your mistakes is one of the reasons why I respect and value your opinion.
To be a good teacher, you must teach how to learn. Admitting failure is the first step in true understanding
Absolutely
Same
I thought the big mistake was having a budget on your own house... I picked up a house 25 years ago that had good bones (really, not like the original house in this series!) but needed a lot of TLC. I had a lot of people ask me what my budget was for the work. I told them I had no budget. It will cost what it costs as I discover problems, change my mind, and as tastes change. Here I am 25 years in and I recently ripped out the half of the interior I hadn't ripped out previously to "fix" things that I thought could be better after living in it for 25 years. In the end I'll have completely gutted the house inside and out, replaced about 60 linear feet of exterior walls, and made some floor plan changes. I have no idea what I've spent... and don't really care! My house is one of my hobbies as well as a place to live and raise my family. My only goal is that it's "done" before I die so my sons aren't left having to finish it. ;~)
Nice "man up" job, admitting your mistakes. It would have been really easy to bury most of those mistakes and only the keenest of viewers would have noticed. I'm very impressed with the lengths you go to. You really want to teach others to make them better builders.
I've watched quite a few videos from Matt & other builders. And while I do find them knowledgeable, it juts hit me how many chemicals go into modern construction. Wether it be waterproofing, weather sealing etc. And it makes me wonder if there is a better way to build without so many chemicals. I mean I know some iccf claim to be eco due to the recycling of eps. Then on the other spectrum there's cob and stabilize earth etc. Makes me think carefully about what I want for my family in our home build.
I think keeping the 6'8" header is important because it aligns with the height of the other windows. If you raise it, the door will stick out and look like a mistake imho. I really appreciate your willingness to share these mistakes - that's where learning happens!
In my old job we had a saying "if you never make mistakes you're not working."
У нас говорят,что лучше учиться на чужих ошибках.
Guess that makes me a hard worker!
@@Davey768 too many mistakes means you're either inexperienced or the job is not a good fit.
For example, I couldn't serve tables to save my life. I spent years trying, even my manager couldn't understand why I sucked so bad. I finally left the restaurant business, got a job turning wrenches and was one of the best, still made mistakes but within reason.
That was our motto when we worked in Chernobyl at the nuclear reactor plant
Love when you post videos of your mistakes. It's great to know that even a builder with your experience still has a mistake from time to time. That's part of building and remodeling...identifying mistakes early on and hashing out a plan to correct them. Builders have to be great problem-solvers above nearly anything else. We've all made our fair share of mistakes, but thank you for making videos of yours so that we can all learn from it and hopefully avoid similar issues on our jobs.
Great job on your house so far! It's looking great and I've enjoyed following your video series as you build it and explain the build science behind your plans.
Very kind John thank you
The walls in my house are 10’. All doors and windows are at 6’8”. No problem in my mind.
So, a question for your main level header heights: You raised the ceiling height to 9', and you said your header heights are 6'8"... but then you said you are insulating and raising the subfloor. Was this subfloor thickness accounted for in the original header placement? if not, they have to raise up anyways
That was the first question I had as soon as he introduced his mistake. Forget about whether 6'8" will look well with 9' ceiling, the real question is, since I'm raising the floor, when do the schedule the framer to raise the headers?
I think when he said "I changed them from 8' to 9' ceiling height..." he may have been saying it was a field adjustment during framing. There may not have been a lot of thought put into it aside from adjusting the stringers. THe insulated floor idea probably came about in the process, but again, wasn't thoroughly thought out. So the opening layouts likely didn't say AFF. I'm assuming that's why he's embarrassed because as a pro he knows not to proceed without doing the homework.
Depending on the room layout, I'd make a step down (3' x Width) and use a flooring that helps it stand out. Maybe frame in a couple 2x6 knee walls on the ends to help with the occasional stumble. Put an oversized sill top on them for setting items when you need to free up your hands. Idk
re: Header Heights -
No worries Matt. I would leave them as they are.
The residences I design are typically 9’-0”, and often 10’-0”, at the 1st floor. So, it’s not too uncommon to have 18”+ of wall above headers (unless I’m spec’ing tall transoms).
Here’s my suggestion...
When you trim the interior, spec generously-sized flat trim boards, such as:
1x8 baseboard*
1x4 side casing
1x6 head casing
1x6/8 trim board at location of crown molding... to replace crown molding or use in conjunction with a crown (or cove) molding, which is then set against the face of trim board.
- For ex, a cove molding scaled to 2/3 or 1/3 the height of trim board.
* 1x8+ baseboards also allow for location of outlets within them... a clean look.
These trim boards give purpose to the amount of wall space above headers. And, they add character.
You can choose to keep things simple, for a more contemporary look.
- For ex, I’ll spec a 1x8 baseboard, and only call for a chamfer along the top outside corner to mitigate dust collection.
- I’ve even used a flat piece of trim in place of crown or cove molding... set at angle to the face of the 1x6/8 trim board. Just chamfer the lower inside corner to butt against the trim board, and then decide how you want the top of this trim piece to meet the ceiling.
I’ve rambled too long. Apologies. If you’d like a few example sketches, send me an email: chadcooper3927@gmail.com
I really enjoy your posts. They help me keep pace with new products... especially insulation, and applications.
Chad Cooper, I agree. Not worth it from my perspective. Trim choices can help it look better if it bothers you. This is perhaps a good time to get together (virtually) with your interior designer. They can possibly do walkthroughs with the different windows and different interior trim to help you with your decision.
Amen. A nice trim detail can really help out this situation.
Agreed. Keep it - should have been that way from the get go. As Joe and Insider say - Trim will be the key here.
If you are worried about a large expanse of space between the high ceiling and windows that could be taller but are not taller, do this: install a "plate rail" along the wall above the windows. Display decorative plates. It works.
A more general comment: Many homes have "great rooms", that is, a family room with a 1.5 story cathedral ceiling. It's a great concept, but if you look at a number of homes with a critical eye, you will notice one thing: Life in the room __stops__ at a certain height. That is, furniture, bookcases, paintings are all only a maximum of six or seven feet tall, and then it's this big expanse of blank wall space between the ceiling and down where life starts. A good designer can work to reduce this. Three ideas: (1) a palladian window on an exterior wall with a peak, (2) continuing the brickwork up to the ceiling on an interior wall, (3) extra tall bookcases lining another wall. If you need a photo, ping me (I'm a homeowner, not a designer, so it will be amateur).
Otherwise, thanks for sharing. I'm wincing along with you, but I'll never knock you. Cheers!
I do carpentry, hard to understand what you wrote, but I bet you're right ..? Lol
I have 9 foot ceilings and a 5 panel slider at 6'8. It actually looks perfectly balanced with the room. I wouldn't incur the cost or headache of changing it. Plus, you'll be the only one who will worry about it. Thanks for the great video.
Leave the 6'8" height. With your overhangs, the amount of addition light would not be worth the cost and delay to me. I would suggest looking at a thicker casing and/or crown to utilize the additional space. You are just losing a view of the soffit from inside the house. On the outside of the house, do a soldier course of brick or another detail.
I would also be hesitant about causing building delays due to the Coronavirus. We do not know what the manufacturer, delivery, etc may experience in delays from day to day. It only takes one person to test positive before the plant gets shutdown for deep cleaning. And then you never know how many people would be able to go back to work. Additionally, you don't know when things will slow down further on the build site. It could be something as small as an inspector's family member to get a fever to throw a wrench in the plans and timeline. I would suggest getting dried in as quick as possible. The job can stop at anytime and we are getting into rainy season.
Hocus Pocus I agree with what your saying about a soldier course of brick. It’ll address the space and really add to the view of the elevations. I’ve designed many commercial buildings and a lot of custom homes. Soldier course and Hering bone patterns in the elevations, to fill a space and dressing up a chimney, are really eye catching and add a lot to the house.
What is a soldier course of brick. I am not a construction worker, but am trying to learn about this stuff for future purposes.
Everyone makes mistakes but the master knows how to fix them.
The 6’8” height in a 9’ ceiling isn’t a big deal. If the ceilings were 10’ or higher I would change them.
I think the same. You'll appreciate the white space above, for sure.
Look into chunky trims for exterior. Interior, you can reframe to add functional transoms above the doors to aid in warm air return.
I agree. The 9' ceilings I have seen had standard height doors. My current home has 10' ceilings downstairs with taller doors and transoms above the windows. The 2nd floor has 9' ceiling with standard doors and no transoms.
@@rsr3959 ; That's the direction I'd take. Tie it in and make it look intentional.
Yep exactly. I would leave them. No big deal really.
I have three "windows to nowhere" in my house. I also have a door to nowhere. Two of the windows are framed for a door that will be installed at a later date as I am building myself in stages. One window is completely buried in the wall and will be opened up this year and a stained glass window will go in, and lastly a door is framed in for a future addition. I'll be taking one of the widows out this spring and replacing it with a door to the flat roof over the addition I built last year. I am going to put a Bison Pedestal deck on top of that when time and money allow 😊
the Framer we used to use before he had a stroke once told me while I was on a jobsite he always puts his window headers as high as possible (basically directly under the top plate) then frames down to the window opening height, so should some one want to install taller windows/doors down the road there is no reframing required.
Smart!
Per the newer code, a header at the very top is now the preferred way. The way in the video now has to be de-rated in strength.
I’ve saw this several times, but it’s not the norm.
Makes way better sense to do it that way.
@@christophergruenwald5054 This is our norm on our builds for the last 4 years. Works Fine.
Rectangle transom windows in the extra space above your already ordered windows. Will make it look rich and planned all at once. Good luck
"We don't have mistakes. We just have happy accidents."
-Bob Ross
Knew a Bob Ross, one eyed and his motto was close enough it never was
“Design is a process”. I’m an architect and my daughter always reminds me that I said that to her a long time ago on one of her house projects. It continues after you start on site. However the more you draw of the house in all sorts of cross sections furniture plans and details at the design stage the less these mistakes will happen. So pay your architecting a decent fee so that he can do that and make sure he does. And have what we call Play-Dough in your budget so that you can continue to make changes when you see the building on site. In the instance of your house Matt, the room on plan is obviously not going to fit a bed in the configurations it was if you don’t want the bed under the window. However from my experience in my house which I bought and didn’t design, in our bedroom we ended up with a bed head under a window and it’s fine with modern glass we don’t get a downdraught and actually we are thankful that we get ventilation very close to us in the hot parts of the summer and the stuffy the parts of the winter so you could actually have joined the three windows together as one and had it with the bed head underneath. Anyway I absolutely love your videos. We don’t do much site built timber framing in the UK, and all the techniques of waterproofing and the materials used are quite new to us. unfortunately we can’t get many of them here so we have to improvise with other things but a lot of the principles you describe are rock-solid.
yeah, but these cost money!!
My late friend Lonnie called it a "Professional oversight".
@Robert Slackware Oof
New Header Heights: On our apartment builds 4 years ago we started placing the header right under the top plate with cripples to window height. This allows the option that you are confronted with today. We Moved to 9' walls 6 years ago for a huge improvement. Be Blessed.
Lol “It’s only a mistake if it’s catastrophic” -Elon Musk
I remember always feeling like I wanted to quit on my way home after days when I made $3,000+ mistakes when I first began-I’m a framer myself, I’ve gotten over that but nevertheless they really do suck
how much do we budget for errors?
@@steveatx8295 Typically 10% to 20%. We just finished remodeling our church educational building. The building had not been touched (except paint and carpet) in close to 50 years. Lots of unknowns and the things we did know weren't good. We had a 30% total contingency and spent every last bit. (I was not the contractor.) Several years ago I built a MIL/Guesthouse on the site of a home I built many years before. I knew the customer, the site and the plan well. I used a 7% contingency and we finished at around 5%. It really depends on the job, how complex, finish level, and confidence level.
It is cliche to say “it depends” but it’s so true. I can’t add 10-20% on a track home but on a custom home with a very high risk and degree of difficulty-atleast 10%, it’s necessary.
Remodels are also a different ball game, there is always an unseen thing. Especially when dealing with structural tie-in and changes of the existing one. And in that case it’s not just carpentry errors but planning errors. I wouldn’t do a remodel with less than 15% and maybe as high as 40%.
For example I’ve done jobs where we take out all the supporting walls of a building and replace / raise them. There are a lot of contingent factors there compared to say a simple load-bearing wall removal.
Really enjoyed this video. I hate how perfect other companies and UA-cam channels pretend their company to be so that they can look like the best. Real
Honest video.
keep the 6'8" headers in the back. Once its finished, nobody will even notice. It'll be fine. It'll keep you humble. See it as your "Amish" mark. When the Amish make furniture, They do it so perfectlythat they turn it over and mar it with a hammer ...because ONLY God is perfect.
Agreed. It'll look fine and save a ton of money. Leave it be.
Can you add a transom window above?
do the Amish really do that?
@@ebog4841 yep mennonites do for sure
@@ebog4841 Thats what Ive been told. I may have Amish and Mennonites mixed up as paper burn said below. We have both here in Tennessee that make furniture. They do awesome work for sure.
As someone who has just started a MASSIVE home renovation project, I’m loving the channel!
Keep the 6’ 8” headers. Perhaps some indirect lighting strips above the windows, sending light upward and bouncing light off the ceiling will add some unique and pleasant lighting.
Matt: Dumb Mistakes I made
Meet Kevin: Yes you did
Easy, ask your wife. Do what she says
TA DA ! HAPPY WIFE HAPPY LIFE ! 👍😎
@@c.blakerockhart1128 That too. From a professional standpoint, Matt is the builder, she is the homeowner. This is the homeowner's call. The builder should not make this decision.
That's the cowards way out.
Do it like a man.
Delete the video & never bring it up.
@@darrelgustafson2507 let me guess, your no longer married huh?
@@c.blakerockhart1128 actually just got married 5 months ago.
Planning a full gut reno and addition. I'm a modernist / minimalist, she's into antiques .
Wish us luck.
So, the real mistake is ordering your windows too early?
I'd leave the headers, but next time reverse the header with the jacks so that the header is tight to the top plates. That way its an "easy" fix to move them up or down without touching the header. I've changed way too many R.O.'s because of an architects "vision".
I do the same. Not all builders do it, but for me it's easier to frame and obviously easier to adjust if necessary 👍🏻
That's brilliant! This is the first I've ever heard of reversing the header and cripples. Why aren't more builders doing this?!
@@reubenjensen2433 - I honestly don't know, I can't see the advantage to not and it takes the same amount of time/effort.
the funniest part of this video is when you had the audacity to say your three sons will be sharing a room, and when your daughter leaves you’ll take her room as an office. doesn’t matter how friendly you are with siblings, every now and then you want alone time.
@@wojtek-33 probably motivates them to move out faster
@@steven7650 LOL...good one👍☺ 🇨🇦
Stick with 6'-8" you can do an architectural header to give the illusion of a taller window. I've got a production home with 10' ceilings and 6'-8" headers. It's okay.
Aaron Dahl great idea
This. Depends on kind of trim you plan to use but there are some nice craftsman style over door trim details you should consider. If you had 10 ft ceilings you can add a panel above the door that mimics the idea of a transom. (That wouldn’t work over your slider, but the craftsman treatment would)
@@PorterFuqua I don't agree with the 6'8 header on the slider door since people will be transitioning through it. And if you move that up, but don't move the others up then the top of the windows don't match with the top of the door, keeping that nice clean line. You could move the larger slider door one up and keep the others the same level if you're ok not having that clean line across the top. I bet the architect would def. want those to be the same line come across the house.
Sketch App I meant that a panel wouldn’t have a nice proportion if you made one to go over the whole width of a slider. I was talking about what to do to make 6’-8” appear taller with a 9’ ceiling. I think we are on the same page, don’t want to change the header around the room or elevation.
Aaron Dahl agreed. I have 10’ walls in my house to with 6’8 doors. It doesn’t bother me. My windows are 6’ tall to, so they extend well above the top of the doors with the header at 8’.
Matt your problem is not the fact mistakes were made the problem is that you don’t have controls in place to assure conformance within your build process.
Your statement was the process of building a home is not relative to manufacturing a vehicle in a factory. But that is where, you’re mistaken. You are operating a manufacturing factory, it’s just located “on site”
Using the title “Builder” and not the title “Manufacturer” is where you thinking caused failure in your process controls. Constructing a home is a “manufacturing” process. In the manufacturing quality world we refer to this as “Transformation” and “Product Realization”
….
In the home manufacturing process, you have expert teams of skilled operators or workers, many times these are referred to as “Subs”
So, you as the builder (Project Manager) need to be coordinating with your “Sub Team Leads” … this appears to be a weak spot in your process, how many times per week do you sit with your Sub team leads and review manufacturing planning for specific phases of the project? At this point you and your Sub team leads should be creating a check list to cover the completion of a Task, Phase, Sub Phase of the project.
Further, when any one project phase or sub phase is complete, do you review the results with your Sub Team Leads to see if the requirements have been satisfactory completed?
Are your Sub team Leads filling out a checklist to assure the prior agreed upon plans have been met?
….
Do you have a “Sign Off” control, not only after work is done but before any work is done, so you know the Sub team leads are clear about the expectations?
These are all simple process management tools, which allow the relative manufacturing processes to be “Controlled” so mistakes are eliminated before they occur. Your window marking activity is one type of control, however, it’s only successful IF the Sub lead understands your window identification process, he removes the tag after installation, and places it on a check sheet representing where his team installed the window, where you have placed a respective numerical identification, that matches the one found on the window. The control is that the sticky note ID matches the check sheet. I would suggest using tape to assure the sticky notes are not easily removed. A verbal verification of the window ID to the check sheet will also help the Subs not make mistakes, as will a window opening identification mark that matches the note.
Example: (Mast 01A) is a master bedroom window opening that matches the sticky note you placed on the window which indicates (Mast 01A), it’s a confirmed match. You might also have notes on the check sheet indicating how you desire the window to be installed and sealed. Preparation and control, resolves non-conformance. Afterword, You and the Sub Lead review the results of the Master BR window install, if the job is satisfactory then that Sub moves on to the next task. You the note on your project that Master BR window install is complete (sub process of the overall manufacturing of the home)
….
Your Sub team Leads should be doing the same with their people, so the expectation is very clear from the top to the bottom of the manufacturing operation. This is your job Matt as the top management of the manufacturing operation. You can’t assume your guys “Have this” you must continually verify, and document the results as meeting requirements.
I would say leave the 6'8", but knowing you, you will tear the whole house down and start again. LOL
That's funny gave me a good laugh because it's true, I'm surprised the house is still standing after that mistake. LOL
Buy in. Getting the entire crew. every guy... even the guys with the broom, to really care, to be emotionally and intellectually involved and care about every detail- is the key.
I have no idea how to accomplish it but in my opinion that would be the key!
Matt, could you open up the window openings and add transom windows to the tops? Maybe the same over the large slider as well? 🤷♂️
EXCELLENT suggestion! Really good "outside the box" thinking!
I had the same thought.
I was just scrolling through looking for this suggestion, I think it's a great idea.
Just what I was thinking as well.
dude as a guy who does mostly interior stuff , this is fascinating! The stuff you're doing is crazy and I love ya for it. No suggestions cause I have no clue about this stuff but keep it going. Shout outs from Houston!
Hmmm. "Been there, done that". As to the lower header height.... glass/light & view kinda trumps anything. I'd do the math on labor re-work and new units and ponder if you can tolerate the hit to order taller windows and the big slider. Maybe you can sell the un-installed units and capture a few bucks.
exactly why I took my plans and had the whole house panelized in a factory. The .house was like a gig saw puzzle and was in the hdry in 5 days...builder then screwed up the exterior details...so its a tough thing building a perfect house
It would be great to do some videos with the building inspector, seeing what they are looking for and verifying the work is done correctly and to code.
@@iwasabigdeel7895 perhaps in your city. I was a B.I. for 3.5 years and tried very hard to present a cheerful persona. Our approach: it doesn't matter who is right or who is wrong. What matters is the work is compliant with the code!
@@iwasabigdeel7895 I would think that if anyone knows good inspectors, it's Matt.
I'd leave the window and door headers at 6'8". I did the same thing on my house and it looks decent. Besides, raising the headers would increase the window sizes and give you more low insulation value glass surface.
Those windows - adopt a term used widely in the high tech & software world: "undocumented features"! :D IMHO there isn't really any reason to change the windows, the advantage of the high ceiling will still be there, and you may actually not want the top of the windows to be higher, if that side gets sunlight or glare. Also consider Christopher Alexander's observation that one of the reasons people tend to like living in "vernacular architecture" better than architectural designs is the added "coziness" - we like to feel protected and enclosed. The high ceilings won't change that but bigger windows might actually make the space less comfortable.
Could just put transoms to accompany the extra space.
If you use Virtual reality technology, you can avoid any mistake in any shape or form. We create 3d model of the project then generate a Virtual reality model of the Building . You can use your cell phone with a cardboard google box to walk inside your digitally constructed building and pinpoint any mistake before lifting any finger.
great vid. change the height. you are already there, just do it. buy once, cry once. this is long term home, dont sell your self short. take care
that's what happens when your crew isn't familiar with english
Transom Windows above the headers. Easy fix, lets the light in that you want and opens the room "up" (vertically)
Edge loss at the slab is significant. Why do you not run the exterior foam insulation down over the slab, to some minimum distance below grade? It is pretty easy to do a cladding change somewhere near grade, and use factory finish metal to cover the foam that covers the slab edge, down to below grade. We have done this for years, on full basements. Then you have the choice of using or not using the thermal mass of the slab for interior environmental control. Strikes me as odd to do the "Perfect Wall" at the wall/ roof interface, and completely stop the "Perfect Envelope" at the top of an above-grade slab. I would also be thinking along the lines of a sealant bead at the wood sill/ concrete interface, and then use a membrane material over the joint, to insure a permanent seal (better able to accommodate shrinkage/ movement in the different materials being joined).
Keep them at 6'8"
You're in Texas. Think about radiant heat in Summer. Your insulation is better this way
at 02:00...That is some of the worst poured concrete foundation I have seen....
Reframe and reorder, you'll be looking at those windows and door for years and you'll never be happy
Tare of the zip and re sheath the remodel.
As a long-time professional builder, Matt as a "client" may not be #1 on my list of client types to avoid, but he is certainly up there. Once the decision was made to scrap the "fixer-upper" scenario, then everything should have been stopped, and a complete and comprehensive program developed for going forward, then the plans drawn and detailed per that program. Backing into situations ALWAYS leaves one making compromises of aesthetics, quality, performance and durability that would not have to be made if one stepped back the full extent in one big step. Basically, once you have done something once, it is a dilemma as to whether to pay for it three times over, to do it the way it really should have been done, and short-term economics takes on far greater weight in the decision making process. Mea Culpa may sound attractive or elicit empathy, but it does not negate the fact that this project was not properly managed from the get-go. I do not see anything here that could not have been anticipated and dealt with well, in the planning stage. And this is from someone who always builds to standards as high, if not higher, than Matt does. In my milieu, the client's attorneys would figure out how to earn some substantial fees for a job proceeding as this one is (and actual blame is largely irrelevant here, I might add).
Quality is remembered long after price is forgotten.
Also your house might become a showpiece to walk future clients through. I would make it right. Dont leave something you would feel embarrassed by.
Yep and this is his house, fix it now, pay the "I messed up" price and then avoid the mistake with a client in the future.
I would redo it Matt. Your a high end builder and this is your show case. If you your like me, every time you will be in that room you will have regrets.
Re: header/windows -
I think leave the windows how they are with the 9’ header. I imagine changing it would not have much of an impact either visually, nor in terms of increased light. So it’s probably not worth the added cost. If you were to make a change, I think putting a 3rd window centered inbetween the other two windows would make more of an impact and probably cheaper. However, not knowing your kitchen layout, I assume that may not be an easy option either as it may affect cabinet or appliance layout.
I think you should destroy this house build and start over... might as well! lol
My wife, the interior designer, said that if you want to utilize the widows you have, you could lower the existing windows, and add a narrower transom window above.
That's an excellent idea
Dibs on extra windows. Box them up for me buddy.
Or next time you're in Arizona, swing by and I'll show you my build.
....and where those windows are going.
I'd stick with the 6'8" on the dining room window to keep the top of your door aligned with the adjacent windows. Great video as always Matt!
I can't find if you have a video detailing your secondary window flange waterproofing. I see in this video at 6:55 you built the windows out for insulation but curious how you finish that window detail. Looks like a fun window install.
As an attic insulator with a UA-cam channel I value good insulation in a new home. I'm sure Matt would value a good attic insulation installation.
Matt, love your honesty & humility. Your willingness to help us all learn from your mistakes & insight is becoming a rare thing these days.. Thanks, ChrisB (Auckland, NZ)
The window there would have been more of an energy loser than the header in the wall :) People think windows have decent r-values but they kinda suck so balancing aesthetics and energy efficiency is a full time job :) So the california corner worshipers might not be happy :) but you actually saved energy by closing the window.
The 6'8 feels a bit cookie cutter for me, being a house you a builder live in I would 100% get it fixed if you can afford it and if it's what you want. If you weren't a builder I'd say keep it and save the money
Leave the window height as it is. By the way... your architect didn't have in mind the standard furniture of the rooms? That's not right! unless you were thinking of something quite unique and didn't tell him, or didn't check the furnished plans, at all.
"What happens when you build your own house is you keep making changes and the costs go up" - Paraphrased Matt Risinger quote.
Leave the kitchen and family room windows alone. Go with the plan (another paraphrased Matt quote I think).
Can you put a small transom over the windows to match the height would add cost but might be an option. I would definitely go for the taller doors whenever possible. Did the architect make 3D model so you can see perspectives from the inside.
Make the windows and door larger. Order new windows and eat the cost. Otherwise, for the next decade you will walk around your home regretting being cheap.
Install the windows and doors you ordered in the next house you do and give a discount.
Nothing on this house has been done cheaply, to include keeping the 6'8" height.
Exactly Eric, so why consider cheaping out now? Just spend the extra to fix it.
You must have at least one window in each bedroom that complies with the Emergency and Escape and Rescue code per 2018 IRC Section 310.1 - Your architect should know this stuff. The required window must have a net clear opening height of 24" and a net clear opening width of 20" and also must not be less than 5.7 square feet except for grade-level windows which are only required to be a minimum of 5.0 Square Feet. From what I saw in the video it doesn't look like any of those window sizes will comply with this part of the code. Sorry if this seems trivial to anyone. I'm a city building inspector and this is something we watch for all the time. It's part of what we call fire, life, and safety compliance.
As an attic insulator with a UA-cam channel I value good insulation in a new home. I'm sure Matt would value a good attic insulation installation.
My opinion: Don't raise window/door height. Opportunity for thick crown molding.
Matrim Cauthon Agreed agreed. Sounds like more of a financial mess than a solved design issue.
The only issue I see here is going to come from you because you know of the issue. Anyone else won’t notice the “problem”. So think about you sitting there years from now looking at the height and thinking to yourself “dang, I should’ve fixed this long ago”.
Glad to see professionals like you make mistakes too. Makes me not feel as bad with my silo house build. I literally came up with a better way to install my windows after I edited and published a video on it . You the man still when it comes to building technology 👍🏼.
Im curious as to why you chose to use a single layer of 2" rigid insulation on your exterior walls which leads to heat loss at every seam and railroad tracking on your siding material ,if you would have went with two layers of 1" thick rigid foam your 2nd layer could be staggered to cover all joints in the 1st layer ,im sure you know these issues so why the single layer of rigid exterior insulation vs 2 layers ?
As an attic insulator with a UA-cam channel I value good insulation in a new home. I'm sure Matt would value a good attic insulation installation.
Change the door heights. You'll soon forget the financial pain but long remember the mistake if you don't. Surprised JenWeld won't do you a solid and take 'em back - those have to be fairly common sizes.
I wouldn't consider these big mistakes - you pivoted a massive amount from a small remodel to a new-build - issues bound to happen because you really needed months to get the details right that you didn't have. The sill-to-foundation detail was more a pita than a problem. A few man-hours and a few tubes of Contega isn't the end of the world - $500 perhaps?
Fwiw, I'm not impressed with Contega HF - the stuff shrinks when cured (maybe 30-50%?) and loses quite a bit of it's tackiness. Surprisingly, Green Glue Compound (not Green Glue Sealant) really works well as an always-flexible acoustic sealant - I'd say it is the equivalent to Tremco's black death in long-term stickiness, but a much more eco-friendly material. And it's 1/3rd the price and a lot more readily available. All my interior air sealing will be with Green Glue Compound
I would raise your header and add a transom window to lengthen your current windows and make it look better once finished. If left at 6'8" I find when the space is finished the windows look odd and squat. Just food for thought.
BTW..Love your channel! Cheers
As an attic insulator with a UA-cam channel I value good insulation in a new home. I'm sure Matt would value a good attic insulation installation.
Matt: At the beginning of this series, you mentioned you were going to do a ZIP 1.5 (instead of 2.0) with limited use of liquid flashing on the OSB. Why aren't you using ZIP System Liquid Flash for the OSB/foundation interface? Also, why are you using wood extensions around your windows instead of the ThermaBuck product? Thanks!
Trusty Scout he's using a different product but with the same result.
@@stewmeat9261 I'm sure its because Matt is sponsored by both companies. Fast Flash is way better stuff than the zip liquid flash, however, my rep has told me not to mix and match because Huber does not warranty the system that way. Fast Flash is probably a better install and will get him the same results the problem is for us normal builders you're out on the warranty.
WillTam08 that warranty part is true but I'm sure they'll cover Matt. He sells a lot of product for them.
If this is your own house, how do i get you to build my next house. Your attention to detail and eye for these mistakes makes me weary of supervising a build myself lol
Give him a couple million
Cheaper to do it now. More expensive and work and more regret to do it later.
You’re missing hundreds of thousands of subscribers that can’t relate. Do an actual middle-class remodel (or several) that people can follow. The perfectionist thing is fine if you have the money for it - most don’t.
I really was thinking the same thing I think he is really intelligent but some of these videos are super over built
I have been building my house since 2005. The only mistake I made was useing my bar napkin blueprint to blow my nose!
best.
You’re first mistake was rebuilding that house exactly how it was originally built.
I would spend the money and change them, hear me out: once you move in, every time you walk past those windows, you'll notice the mistake, and if you plan on living there for a while... Also, maybe you can buy the framers lunch to fix the opening for free!
Never hire amateurs, you are not a real tradesman, go to school, learn the basics, &get some common sense. Stop issuing these statements, as others think you are qualified.
Build a indirect lighting cove, Like 8 -9" high, along the wall above the 6'8" headers to cut down the height a bit.
This was one of my favorite parts of reviewing plans from our architects. I was a residential/light commercial carpenter for over ten years before getting my engineering degree and working as an estimator/ project planner.
The prettiest plan is a fail if it cannot be build right. It is hard for non-conduction designers to think in three dimensions rather than plan view 2D.
You won't regret reworking for the 9' ceiling! Taller widows please :)
Bamboo countertops, huge pain in the butt. High maintenance.
First mistake: turning a house he bought at market value into a completely different house that's more expensive than the original.
I can see how this approach led that to end up happening. Keep in kind; it started as a remodel, and he does plan to stay there for quite some time.
But I myself would look at anything like this as more of an investment to make sure I can get out of it at a gain - so I agree.
At 14:45 in the video you appear to have used about 8 full length LVL studs clustered together between the door and window. Why use 8 studs and not just one say 8x4 LVL vertically as the stud?
mistake number 6 - turning many bedrooms into one so your 3 boys share a bedroom.. They will hate you forever :)
As an attic insulator with a UA-cam channel I value good insulation in a new home. I'm sure Matt would value a good attic insulation installation.
I would say leave the 6’-8” headers. But if you really want that extra glass and light, you could add 12” to 14” transoms to all windows and doors. Most window manufacturers will give you mull options for the specific wind climate.
The high ceiling/low window dilemma might be solved by displaying artwork and/or decorative pieces from the period when the home was originally built. In nice, decorative clusters, of course. Extra little bonus there: tschotschkes from the 70s & 80's are dirt cheap at thrift stores & yard sales. Take a handful of mismatched pieces & spray paint em all the same color. The shapes are enough of a late mid-mod hint to not leave them the original color. We're not talking about Grandma's Rookwood vase, here, so who cares if you prime & paint them.
Alway make the changes that are needed to make it the way you wanted it .. You have to live with it longer than it takes to make it right Vern Porter
As an attic insulator with a UA-cam channel I value good insulation in a new home. I'm sure Matt would value a good attic insulation installation.
Re: "room between window and roof"...you are lucky you don't get snow in Austin.
Up here in Canada (depending on the region), you could easily get as much as 4 feet of snow build-up on roof when it's up against a wall.
Those windows would be totally blocked by snow, and that, as you can appreciate, is not a good thing.
#1: buying this property.
End video
الحمدلله والشكر لله
بفضل الله ودعواتكم أمي الان بصحه جيده ربي يحفظ ويوفق كل شخص شارك بالدعاء الي نزلته تحياتي الكم من القلب
اللهم لا تشوفون مكروه بعزيز وخاصه الام 🙏
Mistake 2: I bet there weren´t Architectural plans made... that´s where you layout the furniture.
I've just started getting into architectural design, had some spare time so thought I'd dabble. I'm coming from the product design world....anyway, I'm noticing it get's very complicated, very quickly, I'm surprised there are not more issues when building residential homes.
Stick to the windows also keep in mind anything which is CUSTOM order cost a lot more. Look down the road 10 years you may want to replace them so stick with standard sizes. BUT do me a BIG favor. Put some Steel into your house don't trust the LVL. They are bad bad in design of wind load and water. Use a few square 1/4 4" square steel tubes and get them into the foundation drilled best on the inner wall's where you can I would say even 4 or so up to the roof rafters put in. It will stiffen your house and eliminate your Wood flexing. Trust me I building since 30 years with a German standard houses and the 2-3k you pay extra will make a major difference down the road because those 4" square tubes will not shrink or move like wood does so your 10year down the road possible glue separation on floors will not happening because it is kept at the same levels. Also I see your stair railing..... put some C channel into it to stiffen it... your 2 by will give to much and will give you trouble down the road too.
Matt,
I had an 8ft double door that I reduced to 6'8" plus a transom. The original door was blasted by direct sunlight in a non-overhang area of the house on the back patio which saw a lot of traffic and wore out fast.
With taller ceilings make sure that you can move taller/wider furniture, countertops and Christmas trees through them easily.
I am a retired builder, seen it all, remember this. It's not a mistake unless it can't be fixed. It's what I called a learning lesson. Just like all education you get in life, it isn't free and takes time. Also to heal your pain a little, remember that the only contractor that doesn't make a mistake is the one not employed to build! Enjoy your show!,,
Is there anytime where a builders ever get thing perfect I don’t think it’s possible because there always thing changing in the why thing can be done and people in general don’t like change and it take a long time for people to try thing