Steve, thanks for the video! I have yet to dive into nonferrous. i did an experiment with T6061 at my local makerspace. i have a full sized CNC that I am all but set up so Research and development is not far off. I typically do Polycarbonate. With the T6061 i found it gummy. And the cyanocrylate did not work - but the surface area was less than 16 square inches. I plan on doing brass as well. I use O flute (single flute) upcut bits. I have yet to dive into 3d stuff - so i do not know much about ballnose. The few small endmill bits (0.0625" / 1.5mm) i have tried snapped - im thinking heat. so, questions: #1 Speed and feed for the Ballnose on Brass? #2 Depth of cut/pass - do you stick with 10% of the bit diameter rule? #3 Step over - in wood its kinda large - 40% of diameter. What percent for the brass? #4 Lubricants - I didnt see any. I use compressed air at times for polycarbonate. Thoughts? Thanks, Clint
You want to turn a ball nose bit fairly quickly (16000-17000rpm), but you can feed it slightly slower than you would for wood projects. Since you'll probably do a roughing pass first to get within 1mm of the finished surface, the ballnose bit won't really need to work too hard so you can push it a bit. But yes, follow the rules. Taking longer is better than replacing a broken carbide bit. For stepover on the finishing pass you want to go less than 40% because you want the finish to be as free of tool marks as possible. If yo want to lubricate you can, but brass cuts fairly easily and if you go slow you can probably live without it. If you don't mind the bit splash oil everywhere then apply oil as you wish. I use my CNC for wood and metal and I would rather not have oil soaking into the wasteboards, so I tend not to lubricate.
You can rough out with a quarter inch end mill, then use an 1/8” ball nose end mill to the finishing. If you want extra fine detail you could do a third pass with a 1/16” ball nose end mill. I made these with a trim router in my Onefinity, and I have since upgrade to an 80mm spindle which is much more precise. I should retry this to see what improvements there are.
Hello my friend, I have a question: Can I make a currency mold out of stainless steel on a 50-watt fiber laser machine? To produce currency by pressure
I won't ask why you need this, so I can disavow all knowledge😀 In theory a 50-60W fiber laser can make the mold for a coin press, however, unless you are starting your own country I will point out the legality of doing this. The mold in coin presses are usually made from high-carbon steel so they are durable. Stainless steel is quite soft by comparison.
To create the toolpaths I usually use Vectric VCarve, however for these coins I used the toolpath creation in the commercial version of Fusion 360 (It's not in the free version). Unlike lasers and 3D printers, good free CNC software isn't really available, though most companies will have 30-day trials so you can choose the best one for you. If you are just getting started though you can try something like Easel but you will outgrow it pretty quickly. You can also look at LaserGRBL with Candle, which is free, but pretty limited.
I have a Onefinity Woodworker and love it. Since this video I have upgraded it to an 80mm liquid cooled spindle, which is by far the best upgrade you could possibly do.
Love the coin. Here in Kanata/Ottawa we used to have a company that made lasers for manufacturers to brand/label manufactured components. Did you work for them?
Hmm. This would depend very much on the complexity of the coin design, but figure 30-45 minutes per side minimum because there 2 or 3 tool changes as well. This in not for high volume work, but it's still faster than a fiber laser 😀
If you are planning to take the red pill, then I can do the Matrix😉. But if you are just sending a 3D design like an STL file, that's all that's required. Most CNC rendering apps (e.g. VCarve) can handling those files directly.
@@andersonvieirasouza1101 Ah so you are looking for something to create a 3D model of the actual coin first. That's much more challenging. There are tools that can do this, though I haven't used them because every 3D scanner I've seen doesn't really do a very good job.
The brass came from a local metal supply shop near me. In this case I started from 2" round stock but next time I will use 1/4" plate and cut the round out of that
Hello.tank you very much.nobel man please guide me.I want to make a gold coin weighing 2 grams and with a diameter of 16 mm, which has an edge around the coin. To make such a coin with precise details like a real coin, from zero to one hundred, what devices do I need? Please guide me and Can you give me the list of required devices? (I have only seen the steps of coin minting and coin molding and coin pressing machine in UA-cam videos)
Hi Fatemeh. While you could probably prototype your coin on a CNC, 16mm is pretty small to get the detail you'd probably want. If this is what you want to do you would be better to take this to a machine shop and get them to cut a die that they could use to press coins. There are also companies around that specialize in coin pressing. It would be far faster and cheaper in the long run, plus you wouldn't have to worry about sweeping up all the gold dust.😉 Unless you're willing to buy a 5 ton press, this is realistically not something you could do well in your own shop.
@@SteveMakesEverything With my bare hands and without phenolic resin, I made a sandpaper with which they sharpened carpentry tools! In my country, the government is the boss of thieves and I do not want to behead anyone or cheat on gold coin alloys. I just want to mint gold coins like the government. I do and put the profit of minting in my pocket and other misfortunes. Minting with a press is definitely better. Help me to make the round edge of the coin and say the names of the necessary devices. There were no traces of lines around the coin. Please help me. No one will be blamed for guiding, but the hungry will be torn apart by wolves.
@@SteveMakesEverything my name is amir.i come from Iran. Fatemeh is my wife. I recite poetry like Hafiz, and this poem, although it teaches fishing to future generations, does not satisfy the hungry now. I will continue to do so even if you do not guide me. Thank you, Your Excellency. Goodbye.
@@fatemehjalili9 You would certainly need a CNC machine, though you would probably need a higher end machine to get the precision. The typical cheap "3018" machine that you can buy from many Chinese companies probably won't be able to handle this
You you step rate do you mean step over? Plunge rate is how quickly the Z axis moves. Too high and you plow the bit into the material to the point where you risk either wreck the material or the bit. Step over is how quickly the bit will move in the x and y direction. Again, a value that is too high will result in chip out or broken bits
@@SteveMakesEverything sir step over if highly valued then tool will move x and y direction,but if we put value step over very low then tool will move x and y direction very slowly but i confused because feed rate do work same working, because if feed rate high value then tool will move x and y direction very fast,if low value feed rate then X and y direction tool will move low speed, so what difference in step over and feed rate please Clear my confusion
@@sonuverma2796 This is why I asked. Stepover in VCarve is a percentage of overlap and hence the final quality of the output. Step rate is the overall speed that the tool moves in the x and Y direction. Stepover is the amount of movement (as a percentage) and step rate is the speed of movement.
@@sonuverma2796 Sorry I accidentally removed your comment. Once again, stepover is the overlap on concentric passes of the toolpath and is measured as a percentage of overlap. The feed rate is the speed that the tool is moving along the path. Related to Feed rate is step rate, which is the lower level distance moved by each step of the motor. You wouldn't normally play with this value but it does play into your maximum feed rate.
I'm attempting to program my coin in fusion, but I'm getting a render that shows the material around the lettering not being fully cut. In general, how deep should the lettering be (currently, the depth of my letters from the top surface is 0.0125, and I'm not getting the resolution I need in CAM). Any advise? If you are willing to reply, let me know if my question was unclear or something. Thanks!
It’s far easier if your letters are raised rather than recessed. This is how coins are normally made anyway. Unless you have a spindle it’s also a bit challenging to get the precision you want since it requires a very solid platform and the ability to use bits down to 1/32”. Since I created this video I have upgraded my OneFinity CNC with an 80mm spindle and I was surprised how much better the accuracy and detail is.
Regarding your specific question about fusion it’s really hard to answer, though the actual cut could vary from the drawing due to tool selection. Try to cut it in MDF to see how it looks
@@SteveMakesEverything I see, and yea sorry, the letters are definitely raised on my design (I meant depth in relation to the raised letting from surface). I thought something sounded off in my original explanation lol. I'll definitely give it a shot on some MDF, thanks.
@@772CODEMASTER When you are prototyping, use the cheapest material you can find. Making wooden nickels is the best wat to start 😊 In answer to your question, it depends on the thickness of your coin but a good rule of thumb is that the total depth os each side is no deeper than 40% of the total coin thickness. You need to leave enough solid material in the middle of the coin to give it strength. Obviously if your letter is raised very high above the finished surface it becomes more difficult to get well defined detail.
I assume you are asking about bit replacement. When the bit or material or bit get overly hot or the cutting isn’t smooth then it’s probably time. I use carbide bits, which seem to laser a very long time - they are worth the extra money
@@SteveMakesEverything thanks yes was the tips, I am just getting in to the cnc stuff, I was asking because I am a jeweler and most of the time we do a gold and silver names for costumers, I have an idea on which tips I need but I am still learning Still don’t have the cnc for the job there’s a lot in the market still doing some research I watched you video and I was impress with the result s.
I marked the bottom of the coin and drew a center line on the coin holder to do the alignment. The makes sure that the front and back images are aligned rather tha having one rotated
It really just a case of using a small enough bit to give the detail you need. It would be tough if you want to machine something like a typical coin though because they are pressed rather than machined, allowing for very fine detail
@@SteveMakesEverything I want to make a gold coin weighing 2 grams and with a diameter of 16 mm, which has an edge around the coin. To make such a coin with precise details like a real coin, from zero to one hundred, what devices do I need? Please guide me and Can you give me the list of required devices? (I have only seen the steps of coin minting and coin molding and coin pressing machine in UA-cam videos)
Hi.tanx for your video.How are the grooves around the coin made?
If you asking about the beads around the edge they are just cut in with an 1/8” round nosed bit
That’s amazing I want to get one made for my channel that I can use to pour as my channel round
Great idea! Do you plan to use this as a mold and pour resin?
I would like one to be a coin then I can use it to make a sand mold then pour it out of silver or gold
Our ever one the size of a 1oz. Silver bar would make a nice one
I would like to make a bar with my channel logo
@@nickeldime3867 I'd be interested in seeing this.
Steve, thanks for the video!
I have yet to dive into nonferrous. i did an experiment with T6061 at my local makerspace. i have a full sized CNC that I am all but set up so Research and development is not far off.
I typically do Polycarbonate. With the T6061 i found it gummy. And the cyanocrylate did not work - but the surface area was less than 16 square inches.
I plan on doing brass as well.
I use O flute (single flute) upcut bits. I have yet to dive into 3d stuff - so i do not know much about ballnose.
The few small endmill bits (0.0625" / 1.5mm) i have tried snapped - im thinking heat. so, questions:
#1 Speed and feed for the Ballnose on Brass?
#2 Depth of cut/pass - do you stick with 10% of the bit diameter rule?
#3 Step over - in wood its kinda large - 40% of diameter. What percent for the brass?
#4 Lubricants - I didnt see any. I use compressed air at times for polycarbonate. Thoughts?
Thanks,
Clint
You want to turn a ball nose bit fairly quickly (16000-17000rpm), but you can feed it slightly slower than you would for wood projects. Since you'll probably do a roughing pass first to get within 1mm of the finished surface, the ballnose bit won't really need to work too hard so you can push it a bit. But yes, follow the rules. Taking longer is better than replacing a broken carbide bit.
For stepover on the finishing pass you want to go less than 40% because you want the finish to be as free of tool marks as possible.
If yo want to lubricate you can, but brass cuts fairly easily and if you go slow you can probably live without it. If you don't mind the bit splash oil everywhere then apply oil as you wish. I use my CNC for wood and metal and I would rather not have oil soaking into the wasteboards, so I tend not to lubricate.
Love your videos. Can you tell me what the bits you use.
Thank you
Chris.
You can rough out with a quarter inch end mill, then use an 1/8” ball nose end mill to the finishing. If you want extra fine detail you could do a third pass with a 1/16” ball nose end mill. I made these with a trim router in my Onefinity, and I have since upgrade to an 80mm spindle which is much more precise. I should retry this to see what improvements there are.
@@SteveMakesEverything Thank you so very much!!!
Nice!!! congrats!! Could you please share the final end mill part number? Thanks
It's really just a standard ball-nosed bit. you can get them here: www.cadencemfgdesign.com/shop
Hello my friend, I have a question: Can I make a currency mold out of stainless steel on a 50-watt fiber laser machine? To produce currency by pressure
I won't ask why you need this, so I can disavow all knowledge😀
In theory a 50-60W fiber laser can make the mold for a coin press, however, unless you are starting your own country I will point out the legality of doing this. The mold in coin presses are usually made from high-carbon steel so they are durable. Stainless steel is quite soft by comparison.
@@SteveMakesEverything In fact, I would like to make old souvenir coins and sell them as a keychain I thank you, brother, for answering me🌹🌹
@@qwertyuiopa6218 Sounds like a fun (and legal) project. 😀
One thing you could do with a stainless mold is to use it to cast pewter coins.
Put a Reeded edge on it with a lathe as well I would love to buy some
You don't need that lathe because you can buy coin blanks with the knurling already there - saves lots of time.
What kind of software are you use...im a beginner so im trying to learn
To create the toolpaths I usually use Vectric VCarve, however for these coins I used the toolpath creation in the commercial version of Fusion 360 (It's not in the free version). Unlike lasers and 3D printers, good free CNC software isn't really available, though most companies will have 30-day trials so you can choose the best one for you.
If you are just getting started though you can try something like Easel but you will outgrow it pretty quickly. You can also look at LaserGRBL with Candle, which is free, but pretty limited.
Amazing .Which cnc machine you are using please?
I have a Onefinity Woodworker and love it. Since this video I have upgraded it to an 80mm liquid cooled spindle, which is by far the best upgrade you could possibly do.
This is very cool. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! These are fun to make. People love them
@@SteveMakesEverything do you have an email I can reach you at? I would like to ask your recommendation on buying a machine.
@@tdacosta4882 Yes of course. Dig int the description of any video and you will find my email address for the channel
Love the coin. Here in Kanata/Ottawa we used to have a company that made lasers for manufacturers to brand/label manufactured components. Did you work for them?
If you are talking about Lumonics, I did indeed work for them for several years back in the 80’s.
How Long it's take to machine both side? Of coin
Hmm. This would depend very much on the complexity of the coin design, but figure 30-45 minutes per side minimum because there 2 or 3 tool changes as well.
This in not for high volume work, but it's still faster than a fiber laser 😀
Good evening, if I send you the coin model, do you make the matrix?
If you are planning to take the red pill, then I can do the Matrix😉. But if you are just sending a 3D design like an STL file, that's all that's required. Most CNC rendering apps (e.g. VCarve) can handling those files directly.
😅 I don't have the project, I have the model coin, you use cnc to replicate it, I think it's called matris here in my country.
this steel block where the image of the coin model design is located
@@andersonvieirasouza1101 Ah so you are looking for something to create a 3D model of the actual coin first. That's much more challenging. There are tools that can do this, though I haven't used them because every 3D scanner I've seen doesn't really do a very good job.
I onow you did this on your Onefinity machine, but have you revisited it with your Gematsu?
I haven’t, but if you have upgraded to a router then there would be practically not difference and you should be able to do these on a Genmitsu CNC
Love it. Where did you source the brass from. I want to make one now. 👍👍👍😊
The brass came from a local metal supply shop near me. In this case I started from 2" round stock but next time I will use 1/4" plate and cut the round out of that
@@SteveMakesEverything Thank you Steve!!!
nice thanks
This was a fun project and I've used this technique numerous times.
How long did this take?
Hmm I can’t remember exactly, but figure it’s going to take an hour or more
How much would you charge to make a coin?
Shoot me an email and we can discuss
Hello.tank you very much.nobel man please guide me.I want to make a gold coin weighing 2 grams and with a diameter of 16 mm, which has an edge around the coin. To make such a coin with precise details like a real coin, from zero to one hundred, what devices do I need? Please guide me and Can you give me the list of required devices? (I have only seen the steps of coin minting and coin molding and coin pressing machine in UA-cam videos)
Hi Fatemeh. While you could probably prototype your coin on a CNC, 16mm is pretty small to get the detail you'd probably want. If this is what you want to do you would be better to take this to a machine shop and get them to cut a die that they could use to press coins. There are also companies around that specialize in coin pressing. It would be far faster and cheaper in the long run, plus you wouldn't have to worry about sweeping up all the gold dust.😉
Unless you're willing to buy a 5 ton press, this is realistically not something you could do well in your own shop.
@@SteveMakesEverything With my bare hands and without phenolic resin, I made a sandpaper with which they sharpened carpentry tools! In my country, the government is the boss of thieves and I do not want to behead anyone or cheat on gold coin alloys. I just want to mint gold coins like the government. I do and put the profit of minting in my pocket and other misfortunes. Minting with a press is definitely better. Help me to make the round edge of the coin and say the names of the necessary devices. There were no traces of lines around the coin. Please help me. No one will be blamed for guiding, but the hungry will be torn apart by wolves.
@@SteveMakesEverything my name is amir.i come from Iran. Fatemeh is my wife. I recite poetry like Hafiz, and this poem, although it teaches fishing to future generations, does not satisfy the hungry now. I will continue to do so even if you do not guide me. Thank you, Your Excellency. Goodbye.
@@fatemehjalili9 You would certainly need a CNC machine, though you would probably need a higher end machine to get the precision. The typical cheap "3018" machine that you can buy from many Chinese companies probably won't be able to handle this
Sir what difference step down and plunge rate
You you step rate do you mean step over? Plunge rate is how quickly the Z axis moves. Too high and you plow the bit into the material to the point where you risk either wreck the material or the bit. Step over is how quickly the bit will move in the x and y direction. Again, a value that is too high will result in chip out or broken bits
@@SteveMakesEverything sir step over if highly valued then tool will move x and y direction,but if we put value step over very low then tool will move x and y direction very slowly but i confused because feed rate do work same working, because if feed rate high value then tool will move x and y direction very fast,if low value feed rate then X and y direction tool will move low speed, so what difference in step over and feed rate please Clear my confusion
@@sonuverma2796 This is why I asked. Stepover in VCarve is a percentage of overlap and hence the final quality of the output. Step rate is the overall speed that the tool moves in the x and Y direction. Stepover is the amount of movement (as a percentage) and step rate is the speed of movement.
@@sonuverma2796 Sorry I accidentally removed your comment.
Once again, stepover is the overlap on concentric passes of the toolpath and is measured as a percentage of overlap. The feed rate is the speed that the tool is moving along the path. Related to Feed rate is step rate, which is the lower level distance moved by each step of the motor. You wouldn't normally play with this value but it does play into your maximum feed rate.
I'm attempting to program my coin in fusion, but I'm getting a render that shows the material around the lettering not being fully cut. In general, how deep should the lettering be (currently, the depth of my letters from the top surface is 0.0125, and I'm not getting the resolution I need in CAM). Any advise?
If you are willing to reply, let me know if my question was unclear or something. Thanks!
It’s far easier if your letters are raised rather than recessed. This is how coins are normally made anyway. Unless you have a spindle it’s also a bit challenging to get the precision you want since it requires a very solid platform and the ability to use bits down to 1/32”. Since I created this video I have upgraded my OneFinity CNC with an 80mm spindle and I was surprised how much better the accuracy and detail is.
Regarding your specific question about fusion it’s really hard to answer, though the actual cut could vary from the drawing due to tool selection. Try to cut it in MDF to see how it looks
@@SteveMakesEverything I see, and yea sorry, the letters are definitely raised on my design (I meant depth in relation to the raised letting from surface). I thought something sounded off in my original explanation lol.
I'll definitely give it a shot on some MDF, thanks.
@@772CODEMASTER When you are prototyping, use the cheapest material you can find. Making wooden nickels is the best wat to start 😊
In answer to your question, it depends on the thickness of your coin but a good rule of thumb is that the total depth os each side is no deeper than 40% of the total coin thickness. You need to leave enough solid material in the middle of the coin to give it strength. Obviously if your letter is raised very high above the finished surface it becomes more difficult to get well defined detail.
@@SteveMakesEverything That makes sense, I'll try it out. I genuinely appreciate the advice.
Hay Steve where in Canada are you I am in New Brunswick
NS
Wate the neime of the cnc mechine
This machine in a Onefinity CNC. find them here www.onefinitycnc.com
when you know is time to change the small tip??
I assume you are asking about bit replacement. When the bit or material or bit get overly hot or the cutting isn’t smooth then it’s probably time. I use carbide bits, which seem to laser a very long time - they are worth the extra money
@@SteveMakesEverything thanks yes was the tips, I am just getting in to the cnc stuff, I was asking because I am a jeweler and most of the time we do a gold and silver names for costumers, I have an idea on which tips I need but I am still learning Still don’t have the cnc for the job there’s a lot in the market still doing some research I watched you video and I was impress with the result s.
Hi Steve, where are you located?
Nova Scotia Canada
Coin swap with other makers?
I marked the bottom of the coin and drew a center line on the coin holder to do the alignment. The makes sure that the front and back images are aligned rather tha having one rotated
Is there a CNC machine that can produce a real coin?
It really just a case of using a small enough bit to give the detail you need. It would be tough if you want to machine something like a typical coin though because they are pressed rather than machined, allowing for very fine detail
@@SteveMakesEverything I want to make a gold coin weighing 2 grams and with a diameter of 16 mm, which has an edge around the coin. To make such a coin with precise details like a real coin, from zero to one hundred, what devices do I need? Please guide me and Can you give me the list of required devices? (I have only seen the steps of coin minting and coin molding and coin pressing machine in UA-cam videos)
*Support your Heritage? Your a Canuck?*
Indeed I bow to the maple leaf 😁
@@SteveMakesEverything *I went to Grade School in Canada. My Wife is French Canadian.*