Five Easy Ways to Make EPIC Coins at Home!
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- Опубліковано 21 лис 2024
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Have you ever craved a currency of your own? Coins that can facilitate the RULING of an economy, the devastation of your enemies, the expansion of an EMPIRE.... You know, everyone's dream. Today we are going over FIVE easy ways to make coins at home. Now anyone can be the financial mogul they've always wanted to be...
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I'm a simple dragon. I see coins, I click.
Now you can add to your own HOARD
Same...
Does make me wonder if, since nations that rely of the ocean or river around them have used shells as currency, do water dragons hoard shells?!? Oh the head cannon.
@@Jaeler9 not Shiny from Moana playing in my head right now...
I could use a simple dragon friend
Hey, Cl3ver: Note about the laser substrate trick, it's to reduce refraction/reflection. When the laser fires into the substrate, a higher percentage of the energy is absorbed by the piece, and reduces how much laser light bends/bounces away, therefore reducing damage to the laser/laser housing/eyes.
Yeah, that made me twitchy.... and then again at 20 minutes he recommended walking away from the laser for 20 minutes. As a rule, shouldn't walk away from a laser while it is running.
@@GrimolfrBrytrok it's just like a candle, imho, in that it PROBABLY is fine to leave alone, but it also could start a fire, at some point, eventually
More important for silver as it is so reflective
@@jan_haraldit literally works by burning (or melting in some cases) through the material. You think that carbon build up on the edge of the cuts is what exactly? The only moderation of said fire is time and laser intensity neither of which are part of a feedback loop. It's your house, but its not an "eventually".
Jesus is the only way. We have all sinned and deserve Hell. Sins that may seem small in our eyes are big in God's and are worthy of Hell, such as lying lusting and stealing. But if we repent and trust only in Jesus, he is faithful and will save us from Hell and give us eternal life in Heaven. Trust in Jesus!
John 3:16
Romans 6:23😊❤😊❤
Hey Cl3ver, since you etched the bolt graphic out and tried it out on the clay, you just inadvertently made the makings of a mold then you can use to make your coins out of epoxy, add silver pigment to get the metal look, or maybe even gold and copper to have a variety of currency. Red for your "bounty/Debtor coin" . Just a suggestion
Epoxy or resin would be awesome for a cyberpunk larp!!!
I had thought about this too, but I want the clinky sound of metal coins haha
@@Rambler6235 I've used a laser cutter to make acrylic coins and then glued two pieces together with UV resin to make a chunky, nice to hold scifi-looking currency that can have etched textures and remains see-through.
Jesus is the only way. We have all sinned and deserve Hell. Sins that may seem small in our eyes are big in God's and are worthy of Hell, such as lying lusting and stealing. But if we repent and trust only in Jesus, he is faithful and will save us from Hell and give us eternal life in Heaven. Trust in Jesus!
John 3:16
Romans 6:23😊❤😊❤
I like that idea. 🤓 🪙
Just touching on that "washers in bulk" thing. Get a couple hundred, find a piece of all thread or a bolt that fits the inner hole, then bolt all of them together and grind flats on the edges. Its consistent and allows for indexing when you engrave or stamp them
This. This is GENIUS. WELL PLAYED
@@SkillTree ive always believed that if you want something done the most efficient aay, assign the laziest person to that task. Its me. Im the laziest person
Great idea!
Jesus is the only way. We have all sinned and deserve Hell. Sins that may seem small in our eyes are big in God's and are worthy of Hell, such as lying lusting and stealing. But if we repent and trust only in Jesus, he is faithful and will save us from Hell and give us eternal life in Heaven. Trust in Jesus!
John 3:16
Romans 6:23😊❤❤
I know this is an old comment, but can you explain it further? Is the idea to gather all the coins and set them up into a banana shape then grind edges onto that? Or is it to grind every coin?
I made use of thin leather. It's amazing how you can take a couple rounds of 1-3 oz. leather, stamp them, and then glue them back to back. Depending upon the glue used, its surprising how stiff these "coins" can get. After that, it was all down to some metallic acrylic paint, inking, dry-brushing and sealing.
I think leather tokens were used as currency between settlers and natives in America
Thanks for the hot tip! Painted leather coins, awesome!
I had a thought about glass coins at one point. Culturally you could say they are fragile and that makes people spend it more carefully, practically you could make it pretty easily by casting resin.
Omgoodness. This video came at THE PERFECT TIME. I am a theatre teacher and I have to create coins for our “Bizarre before the show “ the kids can’t take real money (apparently that’s an issue). So we were going to make coins. THaNK you and I’m Soo inspired now and confident that we can do it!!!!
how did the bazaar go?
Even though you see no difference in the crispness of the laser engraving, you may wanna blacken those reflective surfaces in order to avoid the laser to bounce off and actually hit and damage itself! 😅
One thing you might try for striking coins is the setup for struck coins at renfests. The strike base is centered under a weight that has a pulley system to lift it and a guide to keep it on track. Then there is a quick release from the pulley so the weight falls down directly onto the dies. The people at my local renfest use a 150 lbs weight dropped from 8ft.
i was going to make this exact comment
That's a lot of impact.
Exactly. The renfest I went to had a guy with interchangeable dies, making custom coins on what looked like a repurposed guillotine. Super cool and worked really fast.
also, you need a really substantial 'bolster' or base to hold the bottom die and help keep the energy going into the coin blank! A log round will help with that, then put your base die into the log end! (Its how we do it at demonstrations)
I've seen this thing in action, it's amazing! I even got a pendant that was made with one of those (no idea if I still have it anywhere, my room is a mess).
If you want to mint a large amount of coins, hammering is by far the fastest way to do it. Also, there are round blank sheets available for really cheap money, so you don’t have to shape every single one by hand. Copper or brass ones look really good.
Seeing how the US mint makes theirs, I think you would need a machine to punch out blanks, wash and heat them, then stamp them with a hydraulic press; seems doable if you have the money to assemble such a machine, at least for a small volume such as a few dozen to a hundred every hour or so.
This is so cool!
Something about physical coins is so much more immersive. Nothing like slapping 3 silver coins down on a table to make an offer, or maybe casually flipping one to someone as a bribe.
It's just so much cooler to do it practically!
My first LARP used zinc washers for coins, with the denomination stamped on the face. There even wound up being lore about why there were no 3, 7, or 8 coins. In practice it was because 3 and 8 could look the same in dim light, and 7 could look like 1, but the GMs had a whole in-game story about why the numbers never appeared on currency.
I don't think these values ever appeared on coins IRL too. They are just bulk and redundant.
@@voidseeker4394 Yeah, much more common just to see 1, 5, 10, quarter, half, and etc. The old English coin system ran off a base 360 value so iirc it used 6, 12, and so on instead of 5 & 10, but still used the whole, half, and quarter coins.
The thing we used to use as currency in our early day larping as young kids at home. Was the fossilized plant stem we got from the creek beds around our home. The interesting part is the fact that the rings on them was the factor that determined the value. It was fun creating the value system. We had a value for thickness thin was 1's then count the rings. The ones thar was bigger than those was 5's. Ones about as thick as our fingers was 10's.
Warning, if you use washers and are using lasers or torch heat on them, make sure they aren't galvanized!!! I really wouldn't want someone to end up getting Metal Fume Fever in the joy of coin minting...
Otherwise I love the bolt setup a lot! Honestly if you get some metal flashing, bend it so the bolts barely fit, and cut a slot in so your can slip a blank in. You could even strike the coin multiple times and get a deeper impression.
You could also use a similar set up, heat that blank super hot, and use a clamp to get crazy pressure on there instead of relying on impact.
Also some cheap plated washers imported from countries with lower safety standards have cadmium as well as zinc in the plating, and cadmium is definitely toxic, somewhere between lead and mercury for nasty.
A little tip. To get a nice antique look on your coins you could give them a quick bath in Tourmaline/Patination Fluid. It will instantly age metal. I love your videos btw. :)
This got me thinking of buying brass stamping blanks and using that instead of aluminum blanks. The brass stamping blanks are like the size of a nickel
Hey! About the wax seal stamp, you can totally make it yourself ! They are usually made out of brass, which can be etched with some ferric chloride. I made a few this way.
I spray painted it in black, used my laser engraver to remove what is going to be etched, then dipped it upside down in the acid for 1 or 2 hours. Worked very well :D
While you're playing with sculpey, you can also try metal clay! It can be fired with butane torches or a gas stovetop and you can get it for pretty cheap (especially copper)!
As someone that is building the resources to batch coins out [resin printer, 3-1 laser/cnc/printer, and wood metal workshop] I like this video most because it shows how much I overdo the simple.
As someone who has several of those wax seal stamps, I feel like I could combine a few of these methods to get my perfect coin!!! Thanks for the inspiration!!
I was thinking about 3D printing a mold, get ceramic clay, cook the coins, paint with conductive paint, electroplate with metal, then antique the metal with your favorite antiquing product.
Might want to make a half a dozen slightly different molds. The older techniques were not known for precision.
A friend made coins to use as site tokens for an SCA event. He used the striking method. I asked if he was going to buy copper at Home Depot but he said it would be cheaper to use pennies.
The washers is such a great way to do it, in part because there are cultures that had coins on a string so you can just *yoink!!!* and insert it into your world super easily!
We had one larp event that was originally using tokens for a currency, but this dude playing a goblin comes in and starts trying to attempt using potatoes as a currency. A lot of us shopkeeps went, sure, why not, it's funny, and it spiraled out of control wonderfully XD And that is how I adopted the goblins and that fine young gentleman become my Potat Son XD
The best kinds of memories come from the unpredictable and it is so much fun!
was that goblins name FSH? that sounds exactly like something my fellow goblin friend would do lol
@@kajitheninja Nah, his name is Sir Zike McNasty, The Wanker Banker XD XD XD Although I would probably be fast friends with FSH lmao
Soapstone is surprisingly easy to carve and use for making molds. I made pewter Badger paw tokens when I was in the SCA.
"Anything worth doing is worth over-doing" is a fantastic motto for life
On the hammer struck coin, you might get better results if you balance the amount of raised space on one side with the amount of recessed space on the other. There was a guy that made medallions at the ren faire. One thing I noticed was that some dies were raised while some were recessed. There’s only so much material to move around. Great video!
This advice is pure gold. Thank you.
You could even start designing in a paint program at low resolution and count up the pixels to be sure your designs are balanced.
You can use a small hydraulic press to push the die set rather than hammering it. You can crank through a lot of them without the wear and tear of the hammering
Excellent video!
Remember, Master of the Coin: "Don't gain the world and lose your soul; wisdom is better than silver and gold" (Bob Marley)
Think of a coin with an owl on one side and a big W on the other side ...
At the Colorado Renaissance Festival they have/had (last there pre-vid). They have a vendor that sells necklaces that you get to choose the designs that you want stamped in. Their set up was to have a place at the bottom of a tower for you to put your stamps in.
Then the tower had guides and a weight. With a crank pulley they would bring the weight up about four or five feet. Then they just had to pull the locking pin out and it would drop onto the stamps.
With the stamps being locked in place, with a little tab on one side to line everything up, they would hit it two or three times and it would make a clean coin every time.
If you were planning on making several coins this would be something to build.
As a plus you could possibly bring it to the event and make mementos for the people there.
Making your larp coins looked like a whole lot of fun. My next door neighbor went to the wasteland weekend in the desert in Cali before covid, and their form of currency was BOTTLE-CAPS!
So, the striking method is the most period actuate. In fact, coins are still struck in a press. I've done a lot of metal work and I think the reason your coin backs kept coming out poorly is that the surface is instantly being cooled when you drop in in the die and is cooler than the face side when you strike it. However, consider that real coins were always made out of soft metals, like copper, silver or gold which all take a strike impression pretty well.
When making things like this, remember that you loose details when you make the coins. so go a little bit deeper for the details to get them to appear how you want them.
As well, maybe try to get a bottle jack and build a pressing form for the coins if you plan on making a lot of them?
Yea I was thinking a cheap hydraulic press would suffice. Probably wouldn't need to heat the metal.
@@gemmarob26 I thought that an arbor press would've been ideal: a bottle jack/manual hydraulic press takes too long to pump into place, but one pull on an arbor press would do it.
I've a tiny board game that came in a mint tin, and the guy making it pressed the logo into each tin like this: ua-cam.com/video/1m4JPUwnOVY/v-deo.html
This isn't even an expensive piece of machinery, I believe 'Harbour Freight' in the US has then for under a hundred dollars.
@@edinburghtubes the immense pipe extention. I love it
@@edinburghtubes If you use the Harbor Freight press pull the arbor, take it to a machine shop and have them drill a hole in the center of the pressing pad, sized to take your die bolt, so it always comes down in the same place. Also put a registration mark (saw or file line) on the bolt so your image is right side up. (Says the guy who has put any number of letters wrong side up in leatherwork!)😮😮
@@jackiemowery5243Have pictures to demonstrate?
My spouse and I have been watching your videos while on our lunch breaks, usually on our TV with a box that does not allow us to login. I've started rewatching your videos while on my account and am enjoying them all over again as well as picking up some tips to things that I already knew. Continue the great work.
If that bismuth alloy your using is bendalloy (aka cerrobend, Lipowitz's alloy, or Wood's metal), you should use a clear coat to seal it. About a quarter of the alloy is lead, so covering it in some kind of paint is a necessary safety measure.
The lead is no big deal. Its the Cadmium that you have to worry about.
Seriously you are one of the few channels where I see a new video is posted and if I don’t watch it immediately I know I’ll watch it in a few days. You have added so many projects to my “to-do” list and your enthusiasm is so encouraging!
Tons of historic coins, especially from Asia, have holes in them. Most historic Chinese coins have a hole, for example. This makes it easy to tie them together. No more loose coins falling through the hole in your pocket. This is why coins with holes are superior.
For that last, cast coin, it is extremely satisfying to realize youve remade a toy from my childhood: a metal foundry. I wish i still had it, that was a cool toy :)
If you have a forge and don't want to deal with the exhaustion of banging the metal all day: the hammering dice also work pushing into small glass droplets. So just take coloured glass droplets (or a mix of clear and coloured glass rods twisted together for that swirly look) and instead of hammering, you press the dice together with the glass in the middle.
I normally hate that youtube recommends random videos but this was right down my alley. Great video! Definitely subscribing!
25 or so years ago my grandpa made a ton of wooden coins for all the grandkids by cutting a wooden dowl (don't know if that's the correct spelling) up and burning a quick easy design with a wax seal he heated up to basically brand onto the front face. I remember using them in our flea market/ shopping imaginings for years!
The holes actually perfect tbh. Makes it able to be tied together for clear and concise counting of coins. A single string could be equal to 100 bucks or something
I was just trying to figure out how to make some coins the other day with shit from around the house. I haven’t watched yet but hoping I can get some ideas I can put to use! Best channel ever :)
0:37 "anything worth doing is worth over doing, damnit"
A man after my own heart
Even though I don't really need to make coins for my campaign, I loved just watching this video. You have a great personality.
One thing I've seen used several times are plastic jewels, gems, or even fancy plastic stones. You can get a decent bag of them from a craft store for super cheap. And it always plays well to upturn a velvet pouch onto the table..
With the washer coin you could add a "gem stone" to the center for a more fantasy feel
If you do have a backyard foundry, try casting wax coins from the silicone mold so you can make a massive tree mold to cast a bunch of aluminum or even steel coins quickly and consistently.
Hey Cl3ver... the coin minters at my festival use like a 25 pound weight that they lift to about 10 feet, and it slams down on the material.
With the bolts and the aluminum, you did an incredible job for what you had.
Use what the US mint uses: EXPLOSIVES!
@@jackiemowery5243 Of course we're the ones using gunpowder...
If you have an SLA printer, and not a laser cutter, there are resins made for casting. You could 3d print the coin in one of those resins and then use the mold technique.
Had this on the watch later list a long time now. Not disappointed.
11:00 just get a vice to squeeze it all together. put a long pipe apart of handle that slides over the twisting handle so that way you can have athe pipe be like 9ft long giving you extra lenght torque something to help really crush it into submission, remember those coins in those machiens that make a new coin from old pennnies and quarters etc they use the presusre of the gears to squeeze em together
For the washer ones they would work great on a leather money string run through the middle.
A material to consider for stamping coins could be copper pipe caps. You can usually get the common 1/2 and 3/4 inch sizes for about $0.50-$0.75/ea. Being copper and therefore relatively soft, they'll take readily to stamping, and the lip of the cap can help index one face of the dies.
This was great dude! I loved the bolt smashing!! :D
a job worth doing is worth over doing damn it
that line made me sub instantly
this is my first time watching a video on this channel and I love it
There was a historic culture that used huge rock pillars as currency, even when one was lost at sea, it still held value as they would trade it as any other... really want to bring this idea to a larp and pay people with a sunken item :D
Wasn't it like huge rock coins? That basically weighted like several tons and just sat somewhere. And when you bought something the thing just sat in the same place, just with someone else owning it? :D
This is literally the best channel on youtube
For the clay method, you can also carve out the side of a potato for a stamp. For people extra hurt on cash. Actually did this as a kid for play money
Time to make inspiration tokens out of polymer clay and my wax seal stamps for my D&D players! I actually have everything I need for that project on hand, which is perfect :) polymer clay, wax seal stamps, and metallic paints!
I've been wanting to make the currency of the world I've been developing thanks for dropping this video it also helps me fuel my addiction of collecting fantasy stuff (Grimoires, Coins, and Potion Bottles)
if you are in California, he might be convinced to do a workshop for folks if there is interest, he lives up in the Mt. Shasta area I do believe. When I did it the cost of the materials was very reasonable, I ended up with a made by me custom die set, some hardened punches to be able to make more dies sets, the pertinent information (he does have a little booklet from the "Moneyers Guilde" you can send him a message and ask about it, in it he talks about using various metals like the solder. You can also buy coin blanks form him if needed! James is a great guy, and a mostly one man shop, so he can get a little behind in orders, but he is very good at letting you know if things will be delayed. ( I think his little booklet is a couple of bucks, just ask him!!) k
Also, I think James and his old partner were the first ones to do the "STRIKING" of coins and medallions at the ren-faires
For making the dye fron the bolt. You could probably get a crisper image with a deeper dye. Maybe try grinding down the Inset with a dremel
Clay is pretty cheap too, it's a little limiting depending on the design but fun. If you make wooden or clay stamps beforehand you can also just use that on clay or whatever material you're using.
I've been wanting to try making coins for a while, some great techniques in this video i want to try. Thanks kit 🤘
I did NOT expect the minting to work but I was very impressed with the results. That would definitely be my go to without access to a laser engraver.
My first thought for how I would approach this would be to print a positive using an SLA printer and then sand cast coins out of aluminum, brass, or copper. But your way is much more repeatable.
Can't wait to see you at ConQuest!
I'd advise against using the bismuth, given how hot it can get there in August, but it's never been 65°C, so I think you're safe.
Informative AND Humerous.
Good combination.
That second technique is really close to the historical "hand over fist" method. Basically they would hold the top stamp with the fist and hammer down with the hand.
I made a currancy for witch hunters in my game that was essentially a bone knife. It could only be used effectively on villinous magic users who were wanted by the law, as it nullified low level spells and status effect spells cast against the user. When one of my players asked " Who issues these types of blades?", I replied " The guild of pointed bones".
You could make a mold that allowed you to make multiple coins at once. If you were going to use the press method, find a friend with an hydraulic press and use bronze blanks.
The algorithm gods smiled on me today, and included this video on my feed. Make your own coins? Yes please. Very cool methods, and read through the comments and NO ONE wants to talk about the purple potion you casually poured out and drank to great effect? I must have! What is it, where do I give coins someone else made to acquire my own, or how can I make my own? These are the real questions right here!! (Oh and appreciated the actual content, had not considered using clay at all) New Subscriber added.
I really wanna start getting into coin making. The technique that's spoken to me the most is the casting technique.
I made custom ball markers for golf with the punch outs from electrical junction boxes. Quick sanding, then ball peen hammer finish then stamped with metal stamp kit. Finish with sharpie to color in the lettering.
The "smack it with a hammer" method is where the phrase "making money hand over fist" comes from.
You would wrap your fist around the stamp that is sittting on your coin blank, and then bring your other hand (holding a striking weight) hard down over the top of it.
Boom. Money.
As always, awesome video! I do leatherwork mainly but as you know any creative hobby needs other skills too.
About the washers:
I read _Five Kingdoms_ by Brandon Mull, and in that world, their currency were coins by the name of "ringers."
They were disks of copper, iron, silver, and gold that acted fairly simply. But what was interesting was how they would carry them. See, by the nature of their shape, it was common to string them up like beads on a cord, and tie them onto your legs and around your chest, to hide from thieves and whatnot.
Really cool.
Ummm, that is how Chinese coins worked for millenia from 350BCE - the name for the basic coins is 'cash' and they carried them in standard sized strings of 100 for larger transactions. They also invented paper money in the late 1200's.
When etching metal the walls of the pits get etched away too. That is the reason for the paint flaking off. You need to cover the walls with something. You do not need to paint them manually. When making printing clichees regularly the plate is picked from the etching, rinsed with water, dried and then some oily ink or anything that will work as an enamel is rolled onto the plate with a rubber roller. Some of the paint is pressed into the pits covering the walls but not the bottom. I seem to recall something about "burning in" the protective layer (I've never worked as a repro-worker). If you repeat that for every few minutes you get a stepped down wall on each pit.
12:31 Empress G&T Clever? Looks to be the right shade. A perfect arcane color-changing potion!
ok another thing to add is you can refine the metal die stamps with a Dremel tool or even punch/carve in the background void of the background with a chisel or nail. Heating the stamps will help soften the metal, and once done refining reheat the die then cool in oil to temper it. This will give a nice texture if you prefer that old style. Good vid.
Super AWESOME!!!❤ And how do the instructions change for the last demo when you're making molds for a pure gold or silver pour? What needs to be different in terms of the molding material itself? Or what materials to pour into, etc? Do you have to use sandcasting material instead? I SO want to know this!
Hahaha Excellent choice using Empress, try adding a splash of Creme de Violet, thats my fav way to have a G&T. I'm so happy you made this video!!! I've been wanting to figure out how to do this for so long!!!
You could also do an Acid Dip. Order the stamps you mentioned, use said stamps on the washers, and drop the washers into a mercuric acid and Hydrochloride mix, dip the stamped coins into the acid bath, and in a few minutes, pull them out. You could even pick up a plastic container that comes with a strainer insert at the 99 cent store. You could to a lot at a time. The only setback is properly disposing of the acid.
Cast tin (pewter) for a duller finish or Zamak (zinc alloy) for a bright finish.
I've wanted to do something like this for years. I really like the washers as the base to start from. I like coins with holes in the center.
Ok on the note of coin making. And die hitting for an indentation:
Anneal your metal.
I was a goldsmith up until few months ago so here s a few tip if anyone is interested.
Copper, and some types of brass will take a good impression. Iron too.
For iron just heat it up really hot and let it cool in the air and it will get softer. Steel too.
Copper has to be quenched in water while glowing hot but it softens nicely.
For those interested in bulk making of coins you can use brass, copper or in some cases steel or iron discs, and use acid etching.
Basically you can draw your design on a coin in permanent marker or spray it on with a stencil.
Make a solution of acid - usually you can get sulphuric acid really diluted and just leave them over few hours or overnight. Next say your design is etched in. Or vinegar acid. Most of these you can grab at a better household cleaning departments.
Result will be that the surface COVERED in the paint will be LEFT RAISED or POSITIVE in the etch.
I would go this route for bulk, speed and cost.
Tip for making your carbide tips last longer: optimal speed (usually stated on the tip or by the supplier) and use cutting oils or beeswax in a pinch. If you heat them during cutting they die quickly in some cases.
For sharper lines in your carbide cutter you can also use a nifty tool shape called reverse cone
==
Cl3ver, you could also use the lead weights used on car tires. Melt it down and pour it into the mold you made with the clay. To melt the lead you can use an old pot or pan, for the heating part you can use a small torch like the one you used to heat up the strip metal coin. On the plus side of this method you will end up having coins that will have a good weight to them, and they wont melt on your car dashboard. Keep leveling up those skills.
Not sure how much research went into making this plan, but that was amazing. Your dremel technique is similar to how I made my touch mark for things I have forged. And you’re not a sad little weak man… it takes years to be able to swing a hammer hard AND accurately.
you totally need an arbor press. Saves beating your table to death and your arm. An added plus, is you can do some really cool stuff with leather presses also.
So - another option is to 3d print a mold using heat-resistant resin and use that to cast in pewter/bismuth. Should get plenty of detail.
You can even manage a reusable mold with a little work, though it may not hold up long.
You can get pre made/shaped silver and copper planchet blanks. And it will take less force and make the image transfer better. Ive make some coins out of silver shot and blank copper rounds. Cool part the heat will tone it too.
So cool! reminds me of my college summer job in the '90s at the University of KY in the mechanical engineering department's rapid prototyping labs, mostly vacuum-casting plastic pieces w/silicone molds.
for the second one with the bolts and the hammer i am reminded of a certain vid a while back on the slingshot channel where he made a hammer guillotine. That seems like a perfect way to get solid and repeatable hits on the bolts. The Rubberaulic Press i think he called it.
Thanks for this. Most if not all of the other videos I've watched about mold making don't say what products to use to make them or when to buy the supplies. Dude, yer awesome.
What was the beverage of the week this week? Also you can use a camping stove to melt the metal you are using so you can do it outside if fumes are a concern. A inexpensive pot for a second hand store or charity shop works great if you are worried about your cookware.
just a note...be sure to do the laser engraving in a well-ventilated area or avoid the use of galvanized washers. Zinc fumes are toxic and extended exposure can give you all sorts of problems.
Oh man I went to check out that laser and I expected it to be like 3 grand…it’s on sale for about $800 now! Sweeeeeet! This may be my first piece of tech for this hobby
I LOVE COINS!! this video was perfect for my imaginative world im creating!!
Thats my first vid I've seen from you. And its awesome. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
So it's been 5 months since I commented last, and the candle soot thing inspired this little tidbit of lore.
The Black Toll is a technique used by True Shadows of Avalon to designate and positively identify key targets for assassination or spying without needing a briefing from The House of Shadows. It is primarily used to message other True Shadows in the field for assistance non-verbally. The system works via a blackened steel coin with red highlights. On one side is a mausoleum, and on the other is the crest of the Royal family. The agent plants the coin either on someone's person, or in a location of interest. The side of the coin that is more red indicates which operation should be carried out. The mausoleum means an assassination, and the crest means reconnaissance and spycraft. Once the Black Toll is payed and the job finished, the coin is re-blackened with candle soot until the next job.
I hope y'all enjoy it!
The nice thing about the lazer engraver is that you can duplicate the image so that you can engrave 50 or 100 at once. If you want to go the traditional coinsmithing route, you need to make an anvil with the image for one side of the coin and engrave the other side's image directly on the head of the hammer. The coinsmithing hammer acts as one of the two dyes needed. Another option that wasn't mentioned was to create a coin press. The bolt coin dyes would work fine for this. You would just need something that could apply enough force to cause the image to impression on the coin. BTW, soft metals work best for coin impressioning techniques. That's why most ancient coins are soft precious metals.
Another source of blanks is if you are or know an installation electrician (or two) to collect the plugs from panels and fuse boxes. Though I have to say, washers have an exploitable hole! Put them on a string. Take a spool of wire and weave them to make armor. Sew them down to armor. Sew them down to raise the price of a leather band....