Hi glad you liked the vid….that tool is a home made job…its basically 5 sewing pins sticking out of a piece of wood dowel….the pins have a slightly rounded head so they work well for skin pores. super easy to make... hope that helps- cheers miles
Hi- we just made a wall of clay wall for it to lay on while it was laying down…If you have really detailed sculpting on the back…you can cast it upright. This head is pretty smooth at the back ad was going to be covered by hair so it was fine to lay down.
Yes sometimes the sculpture can get a bit squashed on the back of the head because of the weight of the sculpture but the clay does support the weight mostly - because the edge clay is water based and the sculpting clay is oil based they don’t mix so any water clay residue can be cleaned away with a bush and water- this is standard procedure - the clay is really sitting next to the sculpture rather than pressed hard into it - helps to if you use water clay that is a different colour to you sculpting clay
Hi Mate -glad you like the video…you can use any oil based material to sculpt with…I'm sculpting over a plaster positive head cast …which super sculpy would not stick to very well. I just use regular plasticine from a fiberglass supply with a coat of petroleum jelly over the plaster cast(this helps the plasticine to stick) . You can use any clay but oil based clays won't crack and dry out….Sculpy is great for smaller sculptures….but for heads like this you need a few kg of clay so plasticine is the cheapest option in know of. Hope this helps -M&J
Hi Chernobog-the plasticine was bought from a fibreglass supply house i don't know what they use it for (maybe mould walls), but its not a fancy name brand…its about $20 for a 4kg block if i remember. You can use any plasticine but there are some brands that smell really strong (from an art shop). The one we use as no smell at all which is good. cheers Miles.
Hi Mate In Australia we get it Soft Trans from Barnes products or Adelaide moulding and casting supplies.in the states you could try FX warehouse....they should have a similar translucent two part silicone.Remember regular tube silicone(used for windows) that you get from a hardware store, will stick to a plaster mould like glue.So make sure you get the 2-part stuff for the first layer...and do a small test on the mould first to make sure you don't need a mould release agent....hope this helps.
Yep the plasticine is delicate..thats why the first few layers of plaster are painted on gradually …as the layers of plaster build up they project the sculpture. You don't want to use any clay that sets because you will never get it out of the plaster mould…and clay that sets also shrinks usually, so it will crack if its over a plaster head underneath. Skin texture can be made using latex texture stamps that you make from orange peel or you can do what w e used and have a few pins sticking out of a block of wood. that you stipple over the sculpture. hope this helps
Hi Tony good point…Yeah ultracal is a great product… its extra strength is great especially for foam latex that has to be baked in an oven…for silicone that sets at room temp, i don't think it makes much difference especially for heads like this….here in Australia its about 3 times the price to so we only use it for prosthetics that need more accuracy…..But if you got it go for it. These casting plaster molds I'm making will still last forever, if you don't have to bake em.
hi leo you could but plaster cloth but it is expensive ....any kind of corse weave cloth that will absorb water will work fine for strengthening molds....however hessian or burlap is cheap and very tough. thats why we use it. hope this helps. check your local hardware, i think they use it for garden beds or something.
instead of vaseline you can also use wetclay water. And after the second cast some running water makes the dried wetclay layer running again and you don´t have the clean with any chemicals the vaseline out at all.
Hi - no need to vasiline as plastercine doesnt stick to plaster- you can just peal it out of mold after- best to do a test before making a mold of something important- yeah the walls are air drying water based clay- that is so it doesnt mix with the oil based clay that the head is sculpted in
The thicker the mix of plaster in the third layer? That´s the opposite way as i learned it from my theacher who practice this with plaster in the classic way. The ticker the plaster the les stronger was his go in words always
fx warehouse sell Platsil 10 ...i haven't used it, but i think i have seen other mask making tutorials that use it(its translucent and tint-able to)...do a search...yes you wont get any two part silicones from the hardware store.
Hi kelly - we have all been there unfortunately-as long as the mould worked - i would carefully chip out the polymer clay- then cast a flexible material in your new plaster mould- hope this helps
A very helpful video-thanks. Is air drying clay OK for the walls? I've sculpted with Monster Clay-would it help to use Vaseline or anything on the head before you paint the plaster on?
This is some amazin work. Mind answering these questions please? 1 did the clay you use to sculpt the face dry with air or did you bake it? And if it wasnt dry wasnt it hard trying to mould it when its still soft and the texture can get smooshed considering you used plasticine? 2 how can i make some human skin textures like does little holes you had?
duuuuude thank you so much for posting this!! this is the best tutorial on a silicone mask! all the other ones on youtube are bullshit, your awesome bro!
Hi I've followed your tutorial but instead of casting a human face I've made one out of polymer clay... I baked it because I thought it would come out easier... In hindsight I think i've done myself an injustice - the plaster on the back of the head has come off no problem, but the plaster on the front won't come off... I don't want to crack either part but I have no idea how I can fix this without having to start again.... I have a Uni deadline next Thursday and am running out of time.... :( Help please!
is the plasticine oil/wax based so you can easily use the clay tools on it? and does it air dry or will it stay "soft"? do you maybe have a link to a good plasticine?
Scary if that happens -Best to do a test before spending a heap of time - just so you know how it all works - did you use bandages in your plaster to reinforce it ?
I used plastalina for my first sculpt. When you build the clay wall do you experience any issues with your sculpted piece that you need to fix before you do the second half of the mold? I like to add a lot of detail and I figured the temporary attachment of clay as the blocks and the wall could lead to having to fix some spots if my sculpt is not hard.
Hey, love the video i tried to do this with my clay and had a bit of trouble with the plaster, i have the exact same type of plaster and was wondering what the ratio of plaster to water that you used at 3:24 was(the first set) brilliant mask loved the vid! I even have it on my ipad for inspiration when i sculpt! :))
I never bother to measure the ratio..but like "runny custard" is the consistency i go for….for the first few layers…you don't want the plaster to be to weak but you also don't want to loose any detail of your sculpture.
Yeah you would think so…. but it doesn't…it pops the bubbles that are caught between the sculpture and the plaster… you can even use a drinking straw to do this and just blow through it to pop the bubbles….. or you can just use an artist long bristled brush instead….experimenting with what you like is the best way to do it.
Hi everyone, was wondering if somebody can help us out. We have twice attempted to do this, using this video as our only guideline (It's the best one on UA-cam). The first time we realised we hadn't made the "Clay Voids" Big enough resulting in our whole cast sticking together, impossible to separate. Luckily we saved the head cast inside. The 2nd time, we got all the way to the final step, the head cast separated just fine but when we went to piece it back together for the Latex/Silcon to be poured inside, it just wouldn't align together and by some distance too. It's almost as if one piece had shrunk. The video looks so flawless and we just can't see where we went wrong. Its a shame because we spend a lot of time and effort in preparing the mould thats sculpted only to lose it each time. :(
Mould making can be very tricky. Maybe you could do a test on something smaller? So you can practice mould making on something that hasn't taken ages to sculpt up. That might be the best way to learn what works for you.
I don't think I've wasted so much time and money since I chased an old girlfriend. I used Ultracal 30 and Monster Clay. When it came to separating the two halves they didn't want to come off the clay, and the Ultracal cracked extensively even though I was trying to be careful. Perhaps Pam or Vaseline on the clay before plastering would have helped. I'll never know because I'm not going to try it again...
There is another product that works great instead of just using Plaster of Paris and it's stronger in the end if you want to reuse your mold. Ultra Cal 30 is Portland cement and plaster so it has a longer pot life so you can make a bigger batch and still get the same results as doing multiple layers. It take 30 mins to set up so with a runny batch you will get all your details then as the UC30 dries you can add burlap sooner and in les time then using plaster alone. It also will not shrink so there are no worries that all your hard work will be wasted in the end.. I'm looking for help with work I do and hoping to create a mask making club where we can all help each other learn and grow from others experience, so if your interested feel free to contact me.
This mask of silicone you can make to be carried like that we se like old man or black man or other mask old women when you dont recognize the persone underneath the mask real is she tahnk you
Thank you, this is the best video I've seen on making a separating wall for a two piece mold. Very detailed.
WOW THIS WAS THE BEST 2 PART MOULD TUTORIAL I HAVE EVER SEEN!!!! SO MUCH DETAIL ON HOW TO DO OT GOOD THANKS SO MUCH. MORE VIDEOS LIKE THIS !!!
Hi glad you liked the vid….that tool is a home made job…its basically 5 sewing pins sticking out of a piece of wood dowel….the pins have a slightly rounded head so they work well for skin pores. super easy to make... hope that helps- cheers miles
Hi- we just made a wall of clay wall for it to lay on while it was laying down…If you have really detailed sculpting on the back…you can cast it upright. This head is pretty smooth at the back ad was going to be covered by hair so it was fine to lay down.
Yes sometimes the sculpture can get a bit squashed on the back of the head because of the weight of the sculpture but the clay does support the weight mostly - because the edge clay is water based and the sculpting clay is oil based they don’t mix so any water clay residue can be cleaned away with a bush and water- this is standard procedure - the clay is really sitting next to the sculpture rather than pressed hard into it - helps to if you use water clay that is a different colour to you sculpting clay
Hi Mate -glad you like the video…you can use any oil based material to sculpt with…I'm sculpting over a plaster positive head cast …which super sculpy would not stick to very well. I just use regular plasticine from a fiberglass supply with a coat of petroleum jelly over the plaster cast(this helps the plasticine to stick) . You can use any clay but oil based clays won't crack and dry out….Sculpy is great for smaller sculptures….but for heads like this you need a few kg of clay so plasticine is the cheapest option in know of. Hope this helps -M&J
Hi Chernobog-the plasticine was bought from a fibreglass supply house i don't know what they use it for (maybe mould walls), but its not a fancy name brand…its about $20 for a 4kg block if i remember. You can use any plasticine but there are some brands that smell really strong (from an art shop). The one we use as no smell at all which is good. cheers Miles.
Very interesting to see the process that goes into making these masks. Thanks!
Hi Mate
In Australia we get it Soft Trans from Barnes products or Adelaide moulding and casting supplies.in the states you could try FX warehouse....they should have a similar translucent two part silicone.Remember regular tube silicone(used for windows) that you get from a hardware store, will stick to a plaster mould like glue.So make sure you get the 2-part stuff for the first layer...and do a small test on the mould first to make sure you don't need a mould release agent....hope this helps.
Yep the plasticine is delicate..thats why the first few layers of plaster are painted on gradually …as the layers of plaster build up they project the sculpture. You don't want to use any clay that sets because you will never get it out of the plaster mould…and clay that sets also shrinks usually, so it will crack if its over a plaster head underneath.
Skin texture can be made using latex texture stamps that you make from orange peel or you can do what w e used and have a few pins sticking out of a block of wood. that you stipple over the sculpture. hope this helps
Thank you very much for the fast response mate! How did u protect the back part of the clay sculpture when doing the front half of the plaster mold?
Amazing! Congratulations for your job!
Hi Tony good point…Yeah ultracal is a great product… its extra strength is great especially for foam latex that has to be baked in an oven…for silicone that sets at room temp, i don't think it makes much difference especially for heads like this….here in Australia its about 3 times the price to so we only use it for prosthetics that need more accuracy…..But if you got it go for it. These casting plaster molds I'm making will still last forever, if you don't have to bake em.
hi leo
you could but plaster cloth but it is expensive ....any kind of corse weave cloth that will absorb water will work fine for strengthening molds....however hessian or burlap is cheap and very tough. thats why we use it. hope this helps. check your local hardware, i think they use it for garden beds or something.
This is a great tutorial! Just what I have been looking for.
instead of vaseline you can also use wetclay water. And after the second cast some running water makes the dried wetclay layer running again and you don´t have the clean with any chemicals the vaseline out at all.
Wouldn't plaster cloth be the same as dipping burlap into plaster?
thanks mate.....you can use any kind of clay to sculpt the head..we use plasticine cause it doesn't dry out like other clays can. cheers miles
Hi - no need to vasiline as plastercine doesnt stick to plaster- you can just peal it out of mold after- best to do a test before making a mold of something important-
yeah the walls are air drying water based clay- that is so it doesnt mix with the oil based clay that the head is sculpted in
Thank you
Very Good tutorial!
Its called a mould strap- made for holding moulds together
Great I like it! Where is the party 2 of this video?
The thicker the mix of plaster in the third layer? That´s the opposite way as i learned it from my theacher who practice this with plaster in the classic way. The ticker the plaster the les stronger was his go in words always
fx warehouse sell Platsil 10 ...i haven't used it, but i think i have seen other mask making tutorials that use it(its translucent and tint-able to)...do a search...yes you wont get any two part silicones from the hardware store.
Hi kelly - we have all been there unfortunately-as long as the mould worked - i would carefully chip out the polymer clay- then cast a flexible material in your new plaster mould- hope this helps
The plaster is just crumbling as I try to chisel around the edges of the polymer clay... :(
The polymer clay has a wire frame inside
Other option is to chip off the plaster and try and salvage the polymer clay sculpture and resculpt the back of the head
A very helpful video-thanks. Is air drying clay OK for the walls? I've sculpted with Monster Clay-would it help to use Vaseline or anything on the head before you paint the plaster on?
This is some amazin work. Mind answering these questions please?
1 did the clay you use to sculpt the face dry with air or did you bake it? And if it wasnt dry wasnt it hard trying to mould it when its still soft and the texture can get smooshed considering you used plasticine?
2 how can i make some human skin textures like does little holes you had?
Very informative and interesting. Did you use any special type of plasticine for the first head?
awesome!
duuuuude thank you so much for posting this!! this is the best tutorial on a silicone mask! all the other ones on youtube are bullshit, your awesome bro!
Hi I've followed your tutorial but instead of casting a human face I've made one out of polymer clay... I baked it because I thought it would come out easier... In hindsight I think i've done myself an injustice - the plaster on the back of the head has come off no problem, but the plaster on the front won't come off... I don't want to crack either part but I have no idea how I can fix this without having to start again.... I have a Uni deadline next Thursday and am running out of time.... :( Help please!
Have you tried 3D Printing the sculpture? Or Just 3D Printing the mold?
is the plasticine oil/wax based so you can easily use the clay tools on it? and does it air dry or will it stay "soft"? do you maybe have a link to a good plasticine?
Hey Miles
I am thinking of making a silicone mask. Where can I buy silicone?
Thanks
FX Warehouse only has Liquid Latex and I don't know if hardware stores sell two part silicone.
Scary if that happens -Best to do a test before spending a heap of time - just so you know how it all works - did you use bandages in your plaster to reinforce it ?
I used plastalina for my first sculpt. When you build the clay wall do you experience any issues with your sculpted piece that you need to fix before you do the second half of the mold? I like to add a lot of detail and I figured the temporary attachment of clay as the blocks and the wall could lead to having to fix some spots if my sculpt is not hard.
I've always done clean up and repair to the second half of the mold. You'll always inevitably have some minor damage to the sculpt.
That is a belt or what is?
Hey, love the video i tried to do this with my clay and had a bit of trouble with the plaster, i have the exact same type of plaster and was wondering what the ratio of plaster to water that you used at 3:24 was(the first set) brilliant mask loved the vid! I even have it on my ipad for inspiration when i sculpt! :))
I never bother to measure the ratio..but like "runny custard" is the consistency i go for….for the first few layers…you don't want the plaster to be to weak but you also don't want to loose any detail of your sculpture.
okay thanks ill try it out
Hmm I would think that using the compressed air with the plaster would only create more airbubbles.
Yeah you would think so…. but it doesn't…it pops the bubbles that are caught between the sculpture and the plaster… you can even use a drinking straw to do this and just blow through it to pop the bubbles….. or you can just use an artist long bristled brush instead….experimenting with what you like is the best way to do it.
Hi everyone, was wondering if somebody can help us out. We have twice attempted to do this, using this video as our only guideline (It's the best one on UA-cam). The first time we realised we hadn't made the "Clay Voids" Big enough resulting in our whole cast sticking together, impossible to separate. Luckily we saved the head cast inside.
The 2nd time, we got all the way to the final step, the head cast separated just fine but when we went to piece it back together for the Latex/Silcon to be poured inside, it just wouldn't align together and by some distance too. It's almost as if one piece had shrunk.
The video looks so flawless and we just can't see where we went wrong. Its a shame because we spend a lot of time and effort in preparing the mould thats sculpted only to lose it each time. :(
Mould making can be very tricky. Maybe you could do a test on something smaller? So you can practice mould making on something that hasn't taken ages to sculpt up. That might be the best way to learn what works for you.
If you want some tips feel free to send me a message.
I don't think I've wasted so much time and money since I chased an old girlfriend. I used Ultracal 30 and Monster Clay. When it came to separating the two halves they didn't want to come off the clay, and the Ultracal cracked extensively even though I was trying to be careful. Perhaps Pam or Vaseline on the clay before plastering would have helped. I'll never know because I'm not going to try it again...
There is another product that works great instead of just using Plaster of Paris and it's stronger in the end if you want to reuse your mold. Ultra Cal 30 is Portland cement and plaster so it has a longer pot life so you can make a bigger batch and still get the same results as doing multiple layers. It take 30 mins to set up so with a runny batch you will get all your details then as the UC30 dries you can add burlap sooner and in les time then using plaster alone. It also will not shrink so there are no worries that all your hard work will be wasted in the end..
I'm looking for help with work I do and hoping to create a mask making club where we can all help each other learn and grow from others experience, so if your interested feel free to contact me.
Head looked a bit in the facial way to me as if from John Carpenters head of himself, especialy with that light grey hair.
None of this was 3d printed - would be good to have a machine that 3d printed silicone
the music has fart noises
Okay
This mask of silicone you can make to be carried like that we se like old man or black man or other mask old women when you dont recognize the persone underneath the mask real is she tahnk you
Has anyone deciphered this one yet?
La música de fondo tiene diarrea