A sharp tool is a safe tool. I usually set aside 1 day a month for sharpening all my cutting tools, both leather and woodworking, that I'm comfortable tackling. Sharper tool means less force and less force means less chance of losing control due to excess pressure which could lead to a nice little reminder as to why we keep sharp tools, lol.
I was visiting a tandy leather store and during the course of conversation a topic came up about sharpening a swivel knife. The store manager suggested a green polishing compound which would sharpening easier. Wow! i was amazed at the way this compound worked. It only took a little bit of compound to sharpen.the swivel knife. I highly recommend the green polishing compound to anyone sharpening tools even beginners.I use green polish compound for all my sharpening.
Chuck this was a very informative Element. You covered all the bases. I made a stropping board for my edgers before I realized that Weaver sold one that covered all the sizes needed to sharpen all the sizes of edgers.
Chuck, I’m glad you made a video on sharpening. If you don’t have sharp tools, you’re not going anywhere in crafts! I come from a background of wood working where every tool in my shop must be sharp. The same goes for just about every craft out there. Yes a sharp blade is very dangerous but a dull blade is as dangerous or more dangerous! In my wood work shop, I don’t allow anyone in there while I’m working. NO DISTRACTIONS! Means you walk out with all your fingers and hands where they are supposed to be! The same goes for all crafts where sharp edge tools are used. I noticed that you frequently have your cats visiting you in your shop. Not a good idea when working with sharp tools! Best regards, Richard
Thanks for all the information on re-sharpening and polishing edges of tools. A great addition to the video would be to add a before and after cut for each tool to show how much sharper it has become.
For the inside of the half round glue some leather to a dowel and make a round strop. A leather lace can be tied between two points and used on the inside edge of the English point. Sometimes even without compound it is enough to get the burs off and make cutting better.
Really great information here! Never thought of the thread! One idea for a video, finishing raw chrome tan edges, or a veg body with a chrome gusset. Always been an irritation/ issue of mine
I had that exact same problem using a cheap edger. I've not long got into leather craft so I bought cheap to see how I got on, have started investing in professional range tools now. Your videos are now my " go to " source of leatherwork education.
After stroping it is essentially important to clean the black off the knife on the flesh ( clean side) of the strope. Just a few similar passes to knock the dust off and have it clean of the rubbing compounds.
Thanks for this link, Chuck! It was most helpful. I likely need to upgrade a few of my tools, but I'll strop them a bit and see if I can't get more life from them (at least while I'm learning)
Polishing and sharpening is a complex field with lots of knowledge. In the USA Brownells sell a variety of polishing wheels, compounds and I think ribber bobbins with various grades of grot incorporated into the rubber for use on a Dremel type tool. Also one can buy needle files of small size with diamond grit surfaces which are hard enough to cut back any surface to shape. Jewellers French polish is normally a very fine grade of grit in a waxy matrix. It us normally reddy brown and I have also thought that it is red rust particles dropped out of a chemical mix. India stones are also used by wood turners fir all the sorts of curved chisels and gouges and can be bought similar to a pencil size of tapered to a point for sharpening curves. Another trick alluded to above us to use emery paper either flat or stuck on a piece of shaped wood. Spray mount for photographs can be used as the paper can be replaced when worn. If the wood is round and small it could be put in the chuck of a drill. Laying a piece of 600 emery on a flat surface such as a marble floor tile gives and excellent abrasive surface. Papers if even finer grits can be purchased way down to jewellers rouge approx. 3000 grit which will give a mirror like surface. This is what I would used to finsih a 14 inch blade. Initially I would run along it with a diamond diafold type sharpener in 400 and 600 grit, then 1000 grit paper and then 3000 jewellers rouge paper. These fine papers are used on car body painting and will be in a good shop selling car stuff. Another interesting tool is a ‘tack remover’ , very cheap and very similar to an edger, just needs a bit of round diamond file
A good routine of stropping and maintaining your cutting edges on a regular basis will prevent premature wear on your tool's . You won't be buying new or constantly sending them to be sharpened . Don't wait till their dull .
one thing to note for people, and i am sure its already been commented on(though i did not see it) is that white compound is meant for precious metals like gold silver platinum. Those are all soft metals. The white compound is not made for steel or metal, and does really nothing at all to harder metals. dont waste your time with the white compound, just use green for everyday useage and if you need a bit more, then use the red. but NEVER white. you will just be sitting there for 3 times longer, and not even making a difference to the tool.
@@maddawgnoll the others he sharpened have a "flat cutting edge". the french edgers have a "flat cutting edge". a "cutting edge" is by definition, flat.
@@maddawgnoll i don't understand what " i really really really wished you would have sharpened the cheap craftool edger that everyone has?"" is difficult for you.
I wish he would have shown a dull tool then sharpened it. Btw the Al Stohlman book How to use and sharpen Leathercraft tools is worth having in the shop.
You can watch 10 dif YT vids of how to sharpen tools and get 10 dif (and often conflicting) ways to get a good edge. (Same with reading comments!) Some of the things shown in this vid I’ve seen other tutorials frown upon. I guess if you feel like your tools are working well for you, you’re doing right, if not, try some things til you feel comfortable, your products look good, and you are safe.
Thanks for tackling this really hard topic. Trying to sharpen oblong and round punches is the only part of leather working that i truly dislike! So thanks for the tips
I would like to see how you would do a handgun caddy or soft case with a zipper and hand sew it. I dont know if you have done one or not I have not seen it yet but I have missed a few of your videos. Thank you
Hey, I love your videos, so my idea for a Leather Element is this; can you line leather in a fabric or use fabric as a decorative element on the outside? And if yes, how why when etc... ? Thanks for making them!
has anyone considered mounting a leather disk in a drill for edge-on stropping? Place it between a pair of wooden diskd that are slightly smaller for the exposed edge without having the disk fold over in use.
Thank you so much. I am new at leather crafting. I need to sharpen my curved edge cutter (largest size half circle) because I found out too late I used it wrong! After I kept trying to use it to make an easy key ring, the leather would not cut clear through. So I kept hitting it harder with a regular metal hammer. It was THEN that I read to never use a metal hammer because it will dull the beveled edge. I had no idea what to do. My set was brand new and I couldn't just buy new ones. So I need to get a strop? And that will basically work on sharpening most cutting tools? Like I said, I'm a beginner and rely completely on tutorials. ANY advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you again for sharing this information!
No worries over being a beginner! That can be the most fun and please feel free to ask anything! On this one I’m a little confused. Are you talking about a Round End Punch (rounds the end of a strap), a bevel (rounds the edges) or a Round Knife (half moon shaped cutting knife)? Let me know and I’ll see if I can help!
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Oh! Thank you so much! I didn't know if you replied to such beginners! Thank you again, I guess I did not use the correct names of the tools. I'd LOVE to some day to get that large half circle round knife to make swirls and flowers and leaves, etc... That will be at a later time. But it's on my list wish!!!! A round end punch for a strap is what I ruined.😥. I got a set of 8 sizes . This was the largest one. I think (I do not have them with me right now) it was maybe the size of a 2" half circle? Does that sound right? I was wanting to also use it to try to cut the end for a wide wrist cuff. I hope that explains it better?
I am most happy to reply to beginners! I hope you have a great time with it! On the End Punch, you can sharpen that with a small “Rat Tail” file on the inside and a strop on the outside. Also, if it’s too rough to sharpen with the file/strop I would say find a metal shop (they’re everywhere, always friendly and will grind it out for you cheaply) or a friend with a bench grinder to smooth it out then jump over to the strop. If you use a good poly cutting board under it you’ll really notice a difference in the ease with which it punches and the edge will stay sharp. Use the cutting board for cutting and punching all of your “drive” tools (Round End, English Point, Oblong, Round hole, Chisels…). And yes, use a Poly or Rawhide mallet and you’ll have no issues with your tools wearing. See if this helps?
Chuck, would you have any ideas on how to strop a large blade? I have a 14” blade on my splitter I need to strop. It’s getting a little dull. Have a nice weekend. Andrew
Hi Andrew, If it just needs polished, we have a customer who uses a green rouge and a small polishing wheel once a month on his splitter blade and has never had to sharpen it so you could try that. If it's dull enough that it needs to be sharpened, my only advice on this one is to have it professionally sharpened. That sounds like a major deal but it really isn’t. There are all kinds of companies, like printers, that use industrial blades. It’s not terribly expensive and you’ll be amazed at the edge they can put on your blade….I certainly was!
If you keep your tools stropped it will be rarely you will have to sharpen them , an as you saw it only takes a couple minutes to strop your tools , sometimes I strop 1 or twice if it is a big project
I've seen some video clips where they say you should dampen leather before using an edge beveller or skiving tool, however they say you should not do than and rather use very dry leather when using a stitching grooving tool. Your opinion on this will be highly appreciated, to wet or not to wet and when is it best or not good at all?
Hi Victor, I always do my edge beveling and my stitch grooving with dry leather. Sometimes if the leather is damp or wet it can kind of stretch around the blade of the edger or the groover and you get a ratty looking line. Hope that helps.
Hello Mr Kevin sir, i am in England and so it is hard due to import taxes for me to buy your products whithout incurring extra charges. However please could you give me a little advice, Would you say i am better off buying the hollow ground edgers rather than the flat type edgers regardless of which brand i buy. Thank you for all your great videos, i find them very useful and great fun to watch. Peace.
Is it possible to rougue up a wooden dowel to get inside the punches, like a rat tail file? At least for the English points that looks like it would work.
There’s a number of ways to go depending on how much you want to raise it, but, the best is a veg-tan. It comes in multiple weights so you can raise to your liking, it glues well, has excellent strength (little if any stretching so if the exterior wants to stretch the veg will hold it) and is very durable. I would bevel the edges, front side only, so the exterior leather won’t have a hard corner which would take heavy wear. A less expensive route, is our Saddle Seating. Durable and ¼” thick. Also, suede makes a good filler. Also less expensive, glues well, durable. See if any of these are a good solution?
I have a question. As being a total noob to leather crafting, with the edger's I hear, size 2 bevel, a number 4 and so one. I don't see any numbers on these edger's. Am I missing something?
Very useful, thanks so much May I ask you to tell me again ,the exact and complete name of white / green matter? You said rouge?! And where can I buy it ??
Hi Nahid, It's usually called a rouge cake or honing compound. We'll link our sharpening page so you can see all the different types available: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/cp_/shop-now/hand-tools/knives-scissors/sharpening
Hi there, here is a good video on sharpening an oblong punch: ua-cam.com/video/MEJLkr42cwI/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared If you don't feel comfortable doing this, you can also get them professionally sharpened!
I've just begun to craft leather and I want to make some nice cigar holders for my groomsmen. What kind of leather should I use, a pre stamped thinner leather or a stiffer veggie tan ?
Hi Larry, One side of the strop is to apply the buffing compound and the other side is for the aluminum oxide, so the plastic divider is just there to help keep the two separated.
Anyone got some ideas on how to get white rouge to soften a liiiil bit? ordered from two places and both are hard enough that I'll burn a hole through my leather before I get any meaningfull amount to rub off...
Hi Randall, We would recommend the thread with rouge applied to is for the bissonette edger. Run the thread through the hole and run the blade one way and then the other.
Mr dorsec i hope you get this its been bugging me for a while. I made my dad a wallet all brown except a "B " i left natural. I used super sheen over the whole wallet including the B and after a week or two it looked like the brown dye ran into the natural leaving brown blotches at first now the whole B is almost completely brown i made a belt and the same thing accured if possible please make a video on wat could be the cause of this thx in advance sincerely your viewer Justen Hearn
Hi Justen, I fear the Super Sheen is the issue. I have never had good luck with it and I can’t imagine the dye is wicking under the B long after it dries, so, the Sheen has to be the problem. I can only suggest using something like the Leather Balm or the Saddle-Lac (my two favorites and I use almost nothing else).
Thank you for getting back with me ill try something else as you suggested and ill let you know how it turns out again great vids just watching them ive learned alot in my craft.
Thanks for the great information I have always struggled sharpening my tools. I have a small mobile leather shop and just started a youtube channel ( Eisingerleatherworks ) I hope with this info I will have better luck sharpening
I think it would have been more insightful if you used the tool that was dull on the leather, sharpened it, and then showed us the difference. When you picked up the cheap nasty swivel knife, I thought "oh awesome, we are going to see this dull cheap knife sharp and useful", but then after the demo you put it down and picked up your own brand... which was likely already sharp. Thanks for the sharpening tips though.
dude, did you even watch the video??! i am assuming that you did not watch the video, because if you had, you would have seen him show us a super dull edger and how it looks to try and use it on leather. exactly what you were asking for in your comment......
Why show the bissonette if you weren't going to sharpen it? Why did you show the dull cheap edger and then switch to a better one and talk about how improved it was? It wasn't improved, it was a different edger.
I thought this would be a technique video. Maybe show a heavily used tool that has gotten dull cutting a piece, resharpened, then cutting again. There were a few nuggets in here, but the whole video felt like panning for gold. While I understand you have a business, this video, labeled as an instruction video, felt like a nine minute advertisement.
@@jyjess1997 im no expert and do not own one but from what I gather a Bisonette cuts in both directions, sharpen one side cut and scrape off compound while dulling in one stroke with the other. You are not going to be able to sharpen it like the average edger, it would have to be sharpened with lateral rotation rather horizontally pull and push strokes. Unless they are off set enough to sharpen like a regular edger I will have to investigate further.....
Somebody surely led some video producers down the path of confusion, in the obvious overdoing of the unnatural jerking all over of their hands, as if the viewers don't understand a word of the English language and so need American Sign Language.
The knife sharpener arrived quickly and in good condition ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ I was happy to see that that packaging was easy to open. I did not need a chain saw to get into the package.The sharpener was smaller than I expected but that might turn out to be and advantage because it will be much easier to store than my old sharpener. The instructions on the package were simple and concise; perfectly adequate for this product. I liked that the two slots were labeled with "Course" and "Fine" on both sides of the sharpener. Now, how does it work? It's fantastic. A few swipes of the knife through the two slots and the knife was sharper than when it was new. The rubber surface on the bottom held it in place while sharpening. I thought the small size might be a problem but it was not a problem at all. In fact, I prefer it to the larger sharpeners I have used in the past. On top of that, the small size makes it very easy to store.I love it and highly recommend it.
A sharp tool is a safe tool. I usually set aside 1 day a month for sharpening all my cutting tools, both leather and woodworking, that I'm comfortable tackling. Sharper tool means less force and less force means less chance of losing control due to excess pressure which could lead to a nice little reminder as to why we keep sharp tools, lol.
Great tip! Thank you for your comment.
I was visiting a tandy leather store and during the course of conversation a topic came up about sharpening a swivel knife. The store manager suggested a green polishing compound which would sharpening easier. Wow! i was amazed at the way this compound worked. It only took a little bit of compound to sharpen.the swivel knife. I highly recommend the green polishing compound to anyone sharpening tools even beginners.I use green polish compound for all my sharpening.
I keep a couple of dowels with different compounds on them to get the inside of my punches. Works well for really finishing an edge.
Every time I listen to Chuck, I can't help but think he's channeling Billy Mays!🤣
quick and dirty, no nonsense, love it!
Chuck this was a very informative Element. You covered all the bases. I made a stropping board for my edgers before I realized that Weaver sold one that covered all the sizes needed to sharpen all the sizes of edgers.
Thank you! Just a beginner starting to gather a few tools to try my hand at leatherwork.
Chuck, I’m glad you made a video on sharpening. If you don’t have sharp tools, you’re not going anywhere in crafts! I come from a background of wood working where every tool in my shop must be sharp. The same goes for just about every craft out there. Yes a sharp blade is very dangerous but a dull blade is as dangerous or more dangerous! In my wood work shop, I don’t allow anyone in there while I’m working. NO DISTRACTIONS! Means you walk out with all your fingers and hands where they are supposed to be! The same goes for all crafts where sharp edge tools are used. I noticed that you frequently have your cats visiting you in your shop. Not a good idea when working with sharp tools! Best regards, Richard
Stropping the beveller on thread?? Mind= blown. Thank you!
Thanks for all the information on re-sharpening and polishing edges of tools. A great addition to the video would be to add a before and after cut for each tool to show how much sharper it has become.
I love this teacher new lesseon again..
Thanks for the video. Better to take care of our tools than replace them prematurely. Thanks, Chuck.
For the inside of the half round glue some leather to a dowel and make a round strop. A leather lace can be tied between two points and used on the inside edge of the English point. Sometimes even without compound it is enough to get the burs off and make cutting better.
Good info, thank you for sharing!
Thanks Chuck. Great pointers.
Really great information here! Never thought of the thread! One idea for a video, finishing raw chrome tan edges, or a veg body with a chrome gusset. Always been an irritation/ issue of mine
I had that exact same problem using a cheap edger. I've not long got into leather craft so I bought cheap to see how I got on, have started investing in professional range tools now. Your videos are now my " go to " source of leatherwork education.
Incredible tool and set up. Nothing like trying to edge a piece of 8-10 oz English Bridle with a dull tool!
After stroping it is essentially important to clean the black off the knife on the flesh ( clean side) of the strope. Just a few similar passes to knock the dust off and have it clean of the rubbing compounds.
Thanks for this link, Chuck! It was most helpful. I likely need to upgrade a few of my tools, but I'll strop them a bit and see if I can't get more life from them (at least while I'm learning)
Like the thread trick, will use that on some wood carving chisels, as well. Thanks
Thanks, Chuck. I have been wondering about a quick and easy way to sharpen my tools, especially my punches. Great instruction video as usual.
Thanks for covering the topic, great video!
Thank you, Rick!
Polishing and sharpening is a complex field with lots of knowledge. In the USA Brownells sell a variety of polishing wheels, compounds and I think ribber bobbins with various grades of grot incorporated into the rubber for use on a Dremel type tool. Also one can buy needle files of small size with diamond grit surfaces which are hard enough to cut back any surface to shape. Jewellers French polish is normally a very fine grade of grit in a waxy matrix. It us normally reddy brown and I have also thought that it is red rust particles dropped out of a chemical mix. India stones are also used by wood turners fir all the sorts of curved chisels and gouges and can be bought similar to a pencil size of tapered to a point for sharpening curves. Another trick alluded to above us to use emery paper either flat or stuck on a piece of shaped wood. Spray mount for photographs can be used as the paper can be replaced when worn. If the wood is round and small it could be put in the chuck of a drill. Laying a piece of 600 emery on a flat surface such as a marble floor tile gives and excellent abrasive surface. Papers if even finer grits can be purchased way down to jewellers rouge approx. 3000 grit which will give a mirror like surface. This is what I would used to finsih a 14 inch blade. Initially I would run along it with a diamond diafold type sharpener in 400 and 600 grit, then 1000 grit paper and then 3000 jewellers rouge paper. These fine papers are used on car body painting and will be in a good shop selling car stuff. Another interesting tool is a ‘tack remover’ , very cheap and very similar to an edger, just needs a bit of round diamond file
Thank you for this film👍👍👍
Awesome instructions, as usual! Thank you.
A good routine of stropping and maintaining your cutting edges on a regular basis will prevent premature wear on your tool's . You won't be buying new or constantly sending them to be sharpened . Don't wait till their dull .
one thing to note for people, and i am sure its already been commented on(though i did not see it) is that white compound is meant for precious metals like gold silver platinum. Those are all soft metals. The white compound is not made for steel or metal, and does really nothing at all to harder metals. dont waste your time with the white compound, just use green for everyday useage and if you need a bit more, then use the red. but NEVER white. you will just be sitting there for 3 times longer, and not even making a difference to the tool.
For the half round punches, I have leather glued to different sized dowels and the. I can strop them much more easily!
i really really really wished you would have sharpened the cheap craftool edger that everyone has.
@@maddawgnoll the others he sharpened have a "flat cutting edge". the french edgers have a "flat cutting edge". a "cutting edge" is by definition, flat.
@@maddawgnoll i don't understand what " i really really really wished you would have sharpened the cheap craftool edger that everyone has?"" is difficult for you.
I wish he would have shown a dull tool then sharpened it. Btw the Al Stohlman book How to use and sharpen Leathercraft tools is worth having in the shop.
You can watch 10 dif YT vids of how to sharpen tools and get 10 dif (and often conflicting) ways to get a good edge. (Same with reading comments!) Some of the things shown in this vid I’ve seen other tutorials frown upon. I guess if you feel like your tools are working well for you, you’re doing right, if not, try some things til you feel comfortable, your products look good, and you are safe.
Yeah this one
Absolutely fantastic.
Thank you for sharing.
Thanks guys. Missed you chuck.
Thanks for tackling this really hard topic. Trying to sharpen oblong and round punches is the only part of leather working that i truly dislike! So thanks for the tips
Thank you for watching!
Perfect,thank you.
thank you. this was helpful.
Thank you, so glad to hear that!
Sharp is clean. Clean is sharp.
2:55
So glad that it wasn't just me.. and so sad that I didn't watch this video before shopping for my starting kit💦
Wonderful leather element as always! Really wonderful information.
Thank you!
I´m using an MDF board together with an electric motor with green past on. easy to maintain the angle on the tools.
the cheap edger would cut just as well as the other ones if you had put a good edge on it
But would not sell weaver product 😂
The difference is higher quality should need sharpening less often
I actually bought one of those cheap edgers from Tandy the no.2 and i find myself using that more than my fancy ones
Thank you so much
I would like to see how you would do a handgun caddy or soft case with a zipper and hand sew it. I dont know if you have done one or not I have not seen it yet but I have missed a few of your videos. Thank you
We have a clutch video coming out next week that has a zipper sewn in. It's certainly not a gun caddy but you could probably use the same concept.
Hi, I love your videos. Could you teach us how to make a camera strap for big DSLRs. Thanks a lot.
ممتاز جدا جدا بتقدري سلمت يداكم
Thank you for the video there were some great tips in sharpening i haven't thought of.
Thank you for watching!
thank you for providing this!
Thankyou very much sir
also great to sharpen linoleum knives
Hey, I love your videos, so my idea for a Leather Element is this; can you line leather in a fabric or use fabric as a decorative element on the outside? And if yes, how why when etc... ? Thanks for making them!
Thank you for the suggestion!
Thank you for replying
has anyone considered mounting a leather disk in a drill for edge-on stropping? Place it between a pair of wooden diskd that are slightly smaller for the exposed edge without having the disk fold over in use.
Great!! Thank you so much..
👍 thank
You absolutely can sharpen/strop the Craftool edger most everyone has.
Thank you so much.
I am new at leather crafting.
I need to sharpen my curved edge cutter (largest size half circle) because I found out too late I used it wrong! After I kept trying to use it to make an easy key ring, the leather would not cut clear through. So I kept hitting it harder with a regular metal hammer. It was THEN that I read to never use a metal hammer because it will dull the beveled edge. I had no idea what to do. My set was brand new and I couldn't just buy new ones.
So I need to get a strop?
And that will basically work on sharpening most cutting tools?
Like I said, I'm a beginner and rely completely on tutorials. ANY advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you again for sharing this information!
No worries over being a beginner! That can be the most fun and please feel free to ask anything! On this one I’m a little confused. Are you talking about a Round End Punch (rounds the end of a strap), a bevel (rounds the edges) or a Round Knife (half moon shaped cutting knife)? Let me know and I’ll see if I can help!
@@WeaverLeatherSupply
Oh! Thank you so much! I didn't know if you replied to such beginners! Thank you again, I guess I did not use the correct names of the tools.
I'd LOVE to some day to get that large half circle round knife to make swirls and flowers and leaves, etc...
That will be at a later time. But it's on my list wish!!!!
A round end punch for a strap is what I ruined.😥. I got a set of 8 sizes . This was the largest one. I think (I do not have them with me right now) it was maybe the size of a 2" half circle? Does that sound right? I was wanting to also use it to try to cut the end for a wide wrist cuff. I hope that explains it better?
I am most happy to reply to beginners! I hope you have a great time with it! On the End Punch, you can sharpen that with a small “Rat Tail” file on the inside and a strop on the outside. Also, if it’s too rough to sharpen with the file/strop I would say find a metal shop (they’re everywhere, always friendly and will grind it out for you cheaply) or a friend with a bench grinder to smooth it out then jump over to the strop. If you use a good poly cutting board under it you’ll really notice a difference in the ease with which it punches and the edge will stay sharp. Use the cutting board for cutting and punching all of your “drive” tools (Round End, English Point, Oblong, Round hole, Chisels…). And yes, use a Poly or Rawhide mallet and you’ll have no issues with your tools wearing. See if this helps?
I cheat , and add a tad bit of diamond paste , speeds up the process some !
Chuck, would you have any ideas on how to strop a large blade? I have a 14” blade on my splitter I need to strop. It’s getting a little dull.
Have a nice weekend.
Andrew
Hi Andrew,
If it just needs polished, we have a customer who uses a green rouge and a small polishing wheel once a month on his splitter blade and has never had to sharpen it so you could try that. If it's dull enough that it needs to be sharpened, my only advice on this one is to have it professionally sharpened. That sounds like a major deal but it really isn’t. There are all kinds of companies, like printers, that use industrial blades. It’s not terribly expensive and you’ll be amazed at the edge they can put on your blade….I certainly was!
If you keep your tools stropped it will be rarely you will have to sharpen them , an as you saw it only takes a couple minutes to strop your tools , sometimes I strop 1 or twice if it is a big project
I've seen some video clips where they say you should dampen leather before using an edge beveller or skiving tool, however they say you should not do than and rather use very dry leather when using a stitching grooving tool. Your opinion on this will be highly appreciated, to wet or not to wet and when is it best or not good at all?
Hi Victor,
I always do my edge beveling and my stitch grooving with dry leather. Sometimes if the leather is damp or wet it can kind of stretch around the blade of the edger or the groover and you get a ratty looking line. Hope that helps.
Hello Mr Kevin sir, i am in England and so it is hard due to import taxes for me to buy your products whithout incurring extra charges. However please could you give me a little advice, Would you say i am better off buying the hollow ground edgers rather than the flat type edgers regardless of which brand i buy. Thank you for all your great videos, i find them very useful and great fun to watch. Peace.
Is it possible to rougue up a wooden dowel to get inside the punches, like a rat tail file? At least for the English points that looks like it would work.
Hi Charles,
That should work, I haven't tried it myself but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Thanks!
That was good
I love this. I wish it was easy to buy these in the UK without being hammered by tax and customs 😥
what are the dimensions of the board with the leather strips glued in and what size leather and how many ounces. TIA.
What is a good thing to use for the padding when making a raised leather belt.
There’s a number of ways to go depending on how much you want to raise it, but, the best is a veg-tan. It comes in multiple weights so you can raise to your liking, it glues well, has excellent strength (little if any stretching so if the exterior wants to stretch the veg will hold it) and is very durable. I would bevel the edges, front side only, so the exterior leather won’t have a hard corner which would take heavy wear. A less expensive route, is our Saddle Seating. Durable and ¼” thick. Also, suede makes a good filler. Also less expensive, glues well, durable. See if any of these are a good solution?
@@WeaverLeatherSupply I would love to see a video demo on this subject!
@@shirleymalar2773 video is up of.him.doing belts
I have a question. As being a total noob to leather crafting, with the edger's I hear, size 2 bevel, a number 4 and so one. I don't see any numbers on these edger's. Am I missing something?
Unfair trail on the cheap tool
With the stich line 4mm mean. Is it how far apart the tines are.
Yes, that would be the measurement from tine to tine. Some are measured differently where the 4 mm would be the space between the tines.
Very useful, thanks so much
May I ask you to tell me again ,the exact and complete name of white / green matter? You said rouge?! And where can I buy it ??
Hi Nahid,
It's usually called a rouge cake or honing compound. We'll link our sharpening page so you can see all the different types available: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/cp_/shop-now/hand-tools/knives-scissors/sharpening
@@WeaverLeatherSupply thanks so much 🙏🌹🌹
I have an oblong punch that is really dull, what is the best way to sharpen it?
Hi there, here is a good video on sharpening an oblong punch: ua-cam.com/video/MEJLkr42cwI/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
If you don't feel comfortable doing this, you can also get them professionally sharpened!
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Thank you very much, that's exactly what I was looking for
You need to oil your leather before you add the compound. It makes it more supple and the compound adheres easier.
Oil with what?
I've just begun to craft leather and I want to make some nice cigar holders for my groomsmen. What kind of leather should I use, a pre stamped thinner leather or a stiffer veggie tan ?
Hi there,
We would recommend Veg tan for something like this, it will hold it's shape better. Hope that helps!
what is the plastic piece in the middle of the sharpener with the leather strips on either side. why is it there?
Hi Larry,
One side of the strop is to apply the buffing compound and the other side is for the aluminum oxide, so the plastic divider is just there to help keep the two separated.
Where do I get the white compound block
Hi Jose,
We'll link it here for you: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/65-2732/white-rouge-cake/pr_8664
Have you got a website to buy your tools ?
Hi Carolyn,
Yes, you can visit www.weaverleathersupply.com
😉👍
Anyone got some ideas on how to get white rouge to soften a liiiil bit? ordered from two places and both are hard enough that I'll burn a hole through my leather before I get any meaningfull amount to rub off...
Try using a heat gun or a hair dryer on high heat. Good luck!
How do you sharpen the Bissonette edger?
Hi Randall,
We would recommend the thread with rouge applied to is for the bissonette edger. Run the thread through the hole and run the blade one way and then the other.
Mr dorsec i hope you get this its been bugging me for a while. I made my dad a wallet all brown except a "B " i left natural. I used super sheen over the whole wallet including the B and after a week or two it looked like the brown dye ran into the natural leaving brown blotches at first now the whole B is almost completely brown i made a belt and the same thing accured if possible please make a video on wat could be the cause of this thx in advance sincerely your viewer Justen Hearn
Hi Justen,
I fear the Super Sheen is the issue. I have never had good luck with it and I can’t imagine the dye is wicking under the B long after it dries, so, the Sheen has to be the problem. I can only suggest using something like the Leather Balm or the Saddle-Lac (my two favorites and I use almost nothing else).
Thank you for getting back with me ill try something else as you suggested and ill let you know how it turns out again great vids just watching them ive learned alot in my craft.
Why didn’t you show how to sharpen the Bissonette edger? Disappointed
Where can I shop for Weaver leather products?
Hi Jason,
All of our products are available on our website: www.weaverleathersupply.com/
Thanks for the great information I have always struggled sharpening my tools. I have a small mobile leather shop and just started a youtube channel ( Eisingerleatherworks ) I hope with this info I will have better luck sharpening
i have a cheaper edger. probably the exact same one. and after a little tlc on diamond stones its night and day. stroping it never helped
Could of honed the inside edges of punches.
I think it would have been more insightful if you used the tool that was dull on the leather, sharpened it, and then showed us the difference. When you picked up the cheap nasty swivel knife, I thought "oh awesome, we are going to see this dull cheap knife sharp and useful", but then after the demo you put it down and picked up your own brand... which was likely already sharp.
Thanks for the sharpening tips though.
dude, did you even watch the video??! i am assuming that you did not watch the video, because if you had, you would have seen him show us a super dull edger and how it looks to try and use it on leather. exactly what you were asking for in your comment......
Super Video
Aber leider alles auf Englisch.....
Wäre super mit deutschem unterteilen
Trial oops
Why show the bissonette if you weren't going to sharpen it? Why did you show the dull cheap edger and then switch to a better one and talk about how improved it was? It wasn't improved, it was a different edger.
I thought this would be a technique video. Maybe show a heavily used tool that has gotten dull cutting a piece, resharpened, then cutting again. There were a few nuggets in here, but the whole video felt like panning for gold. While I understand you have a business, this video, labeled as an instruction video, felt like a nine minute advertisement.
This honing by stroping not really sharpening your tools
Chuck I love you, but tuck your mic in your shirt, or run it up your back and over your shoulder. LoL
He skipped some lines!! "Bisonette edger, Great tool, Prob one of the hardest to sharpen, so we are going to skip that one...moving on!!!!"
He said you use the same technique like the other edgers.
@@jyjess1997 im no expert and do not own one but from what I gather a Bisonette cuts in both directions, sharpen one side cut and scrape off compound while dulling in one stroke with the other. You are not going to be able to sharpen it like the average edger, it would have to be sharpened with lateral rotation rather horizontally pull and push strokes. Unless they are off set enough to sharpen like a regular edger I will have to investigate further.....
Somebody surely led some video producers down the path of confusion, in the obvious overdoing of the unnatural jerking all over of their hands, as if the viewers don't understand a word of the English language and so need American Sign Language.
hes a good clever guy ..but sounds to much like a salesman to me
Lol remember leather workers, you should never buy a strop
you talking about how it's easy to just make one yourself?
@@alexandersigworth9333 yea its a piece of leather, wood and compound. All things you prolly got
The knife sharpener arrived quickly and in good condition ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ I was happy to see that that packaging was easy to open. I did not need a chain saw to get into the package.The sharpener was smaller than I expected but that might turn out to be and advantage because it will be much easier to store than my old sharpener. The instructions on the package were simple and concise; perfectly adequate for this product. I liked that the two slots were labeled with "Course" and "Fine" on both sides of the sharpener. Now, how does it work? It's fantastic. A few swipes of the knife through the two slots and the knife was sharper than when it was new. The rubber surface on the bottom held it in place while sharpening. I thought the small size might be a problem but it was not a problem at all. In fact, I prefer it to the larger sharpeners I have used in the past. On top of that, the small size makes it very easy to store.I love it and highly recommend it.