Living in a northern state (Wisconsin). I crank my vehicle over and warm it up for a few minutes only if I have to remove a copious amount of ice or snow from my windows and have no other option than to do so before traveling for safety reasons. On a regular day I start my vehicle and wait for the tachometer to drop a bit (usually 30 seconds to a minute) throw it in gear and drive slowly until it reaches a better operating temperature. Some solid tips from this video in my humble opinion!
@@ethannguyen9363 Agreed. Wisconsin has very cold winters with lots of snow and ice, so combine the times of snow and ice removal with a 1-2 minute idle time looks good to me... but not longer than that. If more time than that is needed, remove half of the ice and snow, start the engine, then do the other half.
The thing is not, that nobody listens - the thing is, those people who hav3 no knowledge about such things are not gonna watch such videos in the first place. When you don't know important things, you don't know that you should know. I still remember fondly, how it hurt by remote, when walking the streets in cold winter, somebody jumping into his old car and immediately speeding off with ice cold engine, reving it hard.
I was an engine mechanic in a large dealership back when you could rebuild and repair practically the entire car. The veteran engine mechanic who had been there since 1950 said to me before he retired " the little old lady's car who only drove to church is the car you dont want to buy. For all of the reasons you stated in this video. Along with the proper recomnended viscosity also use quality name brand lubricants and if you live in the northern tier of the 48 states change your oil at half the recommended mileage. I have maintained my and my families vehicles for decades. Engine work is one thing we never had to do other than proper maintenace.
wonder how many motors are ruined these days with bad electric cooling fans and relays/sensors....the ultimate in planned obsolescence...don't get me started on interference motors!!!!!
I would also add that oil temp is prob more important than coolant temp. Oil temp takes long to get to operating temperature than coolant temp does. In other words just because your coolant temp is at operating temperature doesn't mean that you oil temp is too. Unfortunately for most modern vehicles, the car doesn't let you see your oil temp. Just another way modern cars don't last long and are engineered to get you into another new car sooner. Money money money, the only thing that matters to some.
If there is no oil temperature sensore there is anyway oil pressure sensor (displayed on the dashboard), wait until pressure reaches working range because it is correlated with the temperature ( higher oil pressure on low oil temperature, lower oil pressure on high oil temperature ).
I had heard the opposite about idling car engines at cold start. The premise being what you mentioned about expansion rates of dissimilar metals and materials recommending it. Also the auto start feature on new cars is for that purpose. Especially in the winter months a car is usually started and allowed to warm up to circulate cold oil and clear windows using the climate controls. About the oil, I agree with temperature and viscosity being factors for oil grades, but another major factor is maintaining fuel efficiency which is why oil viscosity numbers and ISO grades have been reduced over the years.
The ideal way to cold start your cars is using an engine pre-heater, of course. But not everybody has an outlet, even if you do have an outlet at home, where do you plug in at work, etc.?
Sorry for my bad english, im German. I try to explain it another Way. Its all about cooling. You know why a Nascar is able to drive 4 Hours Flat out at 8000rpm, and a F1 Car cant do this? Because of cooling. The cooling System of a Nascar is build this Large that it can handle 4 Hours 8000rpm. The cooling System in your Street Car is build to normal Driving in Traffic. If you start your Engine and let it run in Idle it never get Temperature. Maybe in the Summer it will get Temperature, but in the Winter? Forget it. You can run your Engine for 2h in Idle and it never get warm. All you do is putting exreme wear and stress on your Engine, while lettig it run for 10minutes while it is cold. Like in the Video sayed, try to get the Engine warm as fast as possible. To minimize Engine wear.
Yes my LS1 Camaro has piston slap almost all the ls engines do the 4.8 to 5.3 the 5.7 you just have to not floor it when cold wait a few minutes unfortunate for me of not waiting enough but still don't have any serious problems
Always wait for it to subside and go away before putting any load on the engine. To reduce weight, they no longer use deep skirt pistons, which is why they slap. Of course, that the pistons are now made of aluminum, which shrinks and expands far more than iron, is but another reason why they slap (more of a rocking than slapping). They need to heat up to expand to the point where they stop rocking. The problem is that the “piston slap” was designed into the engine so that shallower, lighter pistons could be used to reduce the reciprocating mass. Good for racing, but I wonder about the wisdom for an engine designated for trucks.
I told my wife that we need to park our cars in our garage. Even unheated, the garage temperature is 49-53 when outside is 30-35. And our cars don’t have cloudy light covers even after 15 years. Some of my neighbors, for a variety of reasons like their cars are leased, park outside. In the winter, it’s like refrigerating the cars which is 37 for my frig.
Well, you're right about the garage! And not only that, you can splice in an engine block pre-heater to one or both the cars, since you have somewhere to plug them into.
Depends on what you call a "short trip". Ignoring the exhaust system and considering the engine alone, as long as the engine goes through at least 1 coolant cycle, meaning the thermostat has opened and closed and the engine gets into its normal closed-loop thermal control range, then all the metals have settled into their design tolerances, everything is nice and wet, including the seals. Repeatedly shutting your engine off before this thermal equilibrium is reached will age the engine for sure. It's also good to run it long enough to cook off any moisture inside. This was especially true for engines of the past. Modern engines are obviously a little more tolerant.
Yeah I sort of felt that. When I go on errands I go to the furthest place first and finish my last errand closest to home. I also don't rev up my engine after I start it. First of all it is on fast idle when it is cold. All I have to do is let the clutch out and it goes fast enough to back out of the driveway.
If you have a display with instant fuel use display. Start the car, wait idle until liters/km shows near your average value when car is fully warmed up AND when your rpm goes down to your average fully warmed up range. Example for a 1.6 turn 2019 c180 coupe would be less than 1l/km and rpm between 700-650rpm. Idle times are usually longer in winter if you cold start with ac or heater immedietly on (which is never recommended)
If you have a turbocharged engine it's also a good idea to let your engine ldle for a minute before shutting it off. The turbocharger is extremely hot and needs time to cool down.
This should only be relevant, when you pushed your engine hard before. If you drove through town in a relaxed way before, idling shouldn't be crucial. But also it's not a bad idea to just generally do it. I let my car idle for a minute before shutting off.
Most of this doesn't apply to hybrids since at the beginning when you turn the car ON the engines doesn't even start because the vehicle is running mainly on the car's hybrid battery
I disagree with the idling. I have let my engines in my Fords sometimes idle for 30 minutes before I jump in and leave. I get 300,000 miles plus out of my engines been doing this for almost 40 years. Of course I am absolutely fanatical about maintenance. Either way idling is never hurt my engines.
After ordering a 23 maverick 2 years ago I got it September of last year, 2023 :) I sometimes jump in and go but don't speed off fast due to me having to leave the neighborhood. So it really works out and other times I'll idle as suggested. I've always done my best when it came to that advice. And especially since it's still new to me I really have to be careful with this mav. I'm an hour north of Philly so not nearly as cold as Colorado I'd imagine.
I live in Wisconsin. It can get -30 below zero or colder. Windows are frozen solid. We have no choice but to let it idle until you can see out your windows.
Sounds like most people commenting may live in southern California or Florida. I grew up in Northern Minnesota. 30-50 below 0 is not unheard of, and I've experienced 85 below 0 wind-chill...117 degrees below freezing. You could literally drive for 30 minutes and it would still be -20 to -50 inside your car, if you followed the idle for 30 seconds and go routine. Who wants to dress for an Antarctic expedition for their daily commute? A little off topic, but I currently live in Colorado and studded tires are legal here. Seems like they should be legal in every snowbelt state. I grew up in Duluth, Minnesota, picture a miniature San Francisco. Most of the city is built on a very steep hillside. People claim cars running studded tires cause alot of road damage. Semis cause 100,000 times the damages as a car with studded tires. A 40,000 - 80,000 pound truck literally crushes the road. Where do you think the grooves in highways come from?
I don’t agree with your 1 min warm up before driving. I was told 4-5 min warm up is better especially in cold weather so your Oil Temp also approaches operating temperature. I agree with the rest.
"Youbwere told"? Who told you? This guy here is an engine mechanic, so he certainly knows the matter. The guy whol told you, is he more knowledgable by evidence? Because the things said are simply true. When you let it idle at cold temps, the engine tolerances are suboptimal and the oil is thick. And especially for Diesel engines, idling for a couple minutes does nothing, very little heat is generated. You can disagree with opinions, but you can't disagree with physics. The things said here are not opinions, they are physical facts.
Oh also, he didn't talk about a 1 minute warm up period. It's not about warming up, it's about giving the oil a bit of time to flow everywhere. The best warm up is to drive gentmy.
Yeah your right. But if you have to do small trips you can make sure you give it a good run for 20- 40 or more minutes at least once or twice a week to burn off the carbon build up 👍.
I am a retiree drives my 2009 Ford Taurus ( since 2020 ) for short local trips to nearby supermarket library senior center within 2-4 miles radius. So, you recommend I drive it once or twice week out of town ?
@@stephanielau1705Yes, your engine oil takes at least 15 minutes to warm up properly (longer when it’s cold). Plus you will prolong your exhausts’ lifespan because you removed all of the moist from it during your (longer) drive. 👍🏻
If it's had new oxygen sensors, catalytic converter. Egr valve. Than you might be ok. But if them things come up as warning lights on dash then it might help to give it a good run now and then. I'm only speaking from experience. I'm not a mechanic.@@stephanielau1705
If it's had new oxygen sensors, catalytic converter, egr valve it might be ok. But if they come up as warning lights then it might be a good idea to give it a good run now and then. I'm only speaking from experience I'm not a mechanic.👍.
I usually wait till my RPM needle drops to 1,000rpm so it's not revving high and making a loud noise on a cold start. When it's warmer outside, I start up my car and leave after 30 seconds. This is the reason why I rarely ever have to do repairs on my cars.
That’s exactly how I do it. On a cold start, the engine in our CX-5 is around 1500 rpm. As soon as it drops to 1000rpm, I put it in gear and drive away.
My freind John who rebuilds his 2 cars and a positrack truck every few years, and he told me that almost all engine wear happens at startup because there is no oil in the top of the engine. He agrees with you; let it idle for a minute or 2, and start driving gently until the engine is fully warmed up.
I do pretty much all of this on my cls550 a twin turbo v8 with 158k miles on her now no major issues and recently did a bore scope inspection and he said it’s better than most engines he’s seen with the miles if you care about your car follow all these steps!!
One of the things I did when I rebuilt my Tundra 4.7 to 5.0 engine was to use teflon skirt of Pistons. And I also added a pre-oiler that I took out of my old H 1 Hummer. When I start my truck up, the first position is accessory. It turns the pre-oiler for 30 seconds and then I start the engine up. I’ve also got this set up on my auto start. Basically I’ve programmed the auto start through a script file to turn on the pre-oiler for 30 seconds and then start the engine up
Some new cars have an electric oil pump. These do the same thing in that they can spool up in advance of starts and throttle movement. So instead of responding to rpm it can push oil based on throttle position.
Agree with everything said but let's face with new vehicles today something else will go wrong with it way before it gets anywhere near a rebuild"probably electrical" a sensor will go wrong and unless you can DIY you'll be going backwards and forwards to the garage to sort it costing you a fortune! I'm all for keeping older cars because you can fix them but steer well clear of newer stuff, all depending where you live but here across the pond the powers that be are trying their hardest to get us off the road, so just keep driving while you can. If it ain't broke don't fix it! Happy new🎉😊
Hard to disagree with these tips. As a biker it droves me nuts when fellow bikers leave their engines idling for 15 minutes "to warm up"usually with a loud exhaust pipe too!
I would argue, that these tips absolutely count for cars, but a lot less for bikes. Because bike engines are smaller than car engines and they are all gas, bike engine do heat up very fast when idling. I had a liter bike a while ago, and this thing showed full coolant temp after 2 minutes of idling. And riding a bike gently to heat up is a lot trickier than cars. My bike was brand new and I was supposed to keep the engine under 4,000rpm in the first 500 miles and under 6,000rpm in the second 500 miles. And the engines of sporty bikes run a lot smoother the higher the rpm. Riding at max 4,000 was tricky, and no joy. But other than bikes simply heating up better and quicker than cars, the physical basics are also true.
i bought a ford mondeo new back in 2008. it now has over 230k miles on it. No issues at all. Engine is fine, Turbocharger is fine. And how do i drive? Exactly like in the video. Engine startup, no revs. After 30 seconds i start the driving. No full throttle until it has reached operating temp + 5 mins for the warm oil to reach the turbocharger. I never drive short trips with this car, every startup leads to a longer drive. After longer highway trips i let the car cool down in idle for 30 seconds. The Engine never needed a repair. it works like on day 1. Send this video to all of your family members. Everyone should drive like this.
I have been told, that although engines are designed to drive cold (within reason) , the power steering pump can't take it. Considering this pump is attached to the outside of the engine , it should take a few minutes to warm up so to not to cause damage.
I own a fishing cottage in Flin Flon Manitoba 515 miles NW of Winnipeg , I spend some winters there and it can drop to -40 below at any given moment , I have to change the motor oil to 0-10 weight plus utilize a block heater and a coolant circulator and battery blanket as well just so it might start , Even running a heat houser on the front grill the engine wont get above cold at all and idling does very little !
The point about fuel dilution is very true. On cold startup, at idle, the engine will run rich the entire time. A larger percentage of fuel will make its way to the oil, which is not good.
I had a coworker that I carpooled with and one thing he always did was start his car cold and immediately into gear. Cringed every time he did that! I always give it a minute to circulate before driving off.
Same thing. This goes for all engines. The Cummins is really reliable, however that air heater in the intake manifold will eventually break off and that screw will go into the piston and destroy the engine. I’d suggest you replace that with the gale banks monster ram. Good upgrade for more airflow, but also stops that screw from destroying your engine.
From what I’ve learned from this video, you could probably get away with idling for 5 minutes and for short trips might be able to get away with that again doing the light load in order to avoid damage.
Something typically missed about warm-ups is that you need to warm up the automatic transmission fluid that circulates through the transmission radiator/heat exchanger up front. On Subarus that's what the blue thermometer light is about. When it goes off it is okay to use the transmission.
I do everything you said! I always warm my 2005 Mitsubishi Colt Plus Ralliart - with the 4G15T engine - after start for 45 secs. Which I time on the stopwatch on my phone. Then I drive slowly away not going above 2000rpm until the temp gauge gets into mid range. Luckily I live atop a hill so I can part coast down. The only thing I've been bad for that you pointed out is driving the 75 seconds to the supermarket down the road, shutting down then shopping. Then starting again and coming home. I need to stop doing that! Must plan stops at the supermarket when the car is warm say on the way home from being out. If I've been away and been pushing my car I will let it idle down for 60 seconds to let turbo oil cool. I don't push it hard enoug to warrant getting a turbo-timer. She's a torquey thing my 4G15T. The Turbo starta sucking & blowing at 2600rpm. I can easily stay below that around town and easily keep up with traffic. Another fab watch sir. Happy New Year from Australia East Islands! Grayson
In actually, the correct warm up should be to start your engine for 1 to 2 minutes and then driving easy for about 5 to 6 miles to completely warm up the whole vehicle. Which includes the engine, transmission, differential and all other bearings (wheel, drive shaft and more).
I start my car the nite before , I want to drive and sit in it in my garage to make sure everything is OK, but I don’t seem to feel very well these days- must be getting older!
getting older yes.... i can relate.... but sitting in a garage with the engine running...... all i can think about is carbon monoxide poisoning. please be careful.
After watching this, I'm definitely gonna warm up my Nissan Leaf 🍀 in future, hopefully engine last longer, I've always just pressed start & away but that must wear, like, loads of the engine, right? 😮
In ND in winter it can get -20. Sorry not leaving after 30 seconds. I auto start the full 15 minutes. BUT: I change the oil right away in March after auto start season. It may only get 1500 miles from Nov thru March. Then I drop the oil.
Either way, if i start my car at 20 degrees it still has to run in order to warm up so what's the difference if I start to drive 25 mph in lew of just sitting still?
I definitely do that first thing I do is turn the engine on in my Mercedes and let it warm up for a bit then I muck around with getting comfortable and getting everything together I need like music etc then I move off gently never stressing the engine in the first 5-10 mins
My VW Citi Golf still has a manuel choke…in the car booklet it suggest pulling out the choke and drive stright away.I must say we don’t have very cold winters in Johannesburg South Africa.🇿🇦
I always thought a multi grade oil is thinner when it's cold, the ideal being, oil needs to be thin at start up so it flows faster to all the components. I can understand a mono grade oil being thicker but not a mult grade.
I live in Phoenix , Az . Most of the year my engine hasn't even cooled down much after working all day or even in the morning . I just wore my jacket the first time this winter on 12-28-24 . The heat is excessive in the summer , but I hate the cold even more . Cold weather and ice is for polar bears ! 😅
When the temp is in the teens and my truck has sat for a couple days I'll "Clear Flood Mode" for a few seconds to get oil up into the lifters, valves and cylinders.
Drives me crazy witnessing neighbours putting it into gear before the initial RPMs have dropped,ICE- cold!You wake-up,jump out of bed and start running,before even cleaning the sleep from your eyes.😎👍✌🇨🇦
It's simple as far as I'm concerned. Get in. Start the vehicle. Let the revs come down a bit. Then drive. I said drive! Not take to your neighborhood streets like an asshole.😮
The first one is especially cringe worthy. I live in Colorado. On more than one occasion on a 30-40 below 0 night, I've seen people jump in their car and hold the throttle to the floor for 10 straight minutes. Literally bouncing off the rev limiter, for at least 5-10 minutes straight. I always warm my car up, at least until it comes off of fast idle. Have you ever driven a car for an hour when every surface in the car is 30-40 below 0 ?
@HonestMechanicChannel, your correct to let it idle 30-60s first and on all your other points ! You as well as other U-tubers on this subject, never CONSIDER/mention THE 2 step engine preset FAST IDLE!! [fastest then a kickdown to FAST (then normal)]!! I normally wait for the 2nd kick-down before I take off; which by the way is your 30-60s (?maybe longer if 'really' cold?). I take it easy then [ keep between 2-3,000 or so (4k)rpm], till OIL temp. needle begins to move off peg. I THINK FROM NOW ON you incorporate /mention fast idle into your future comments on cold starting. {a GOOD question TO CONSIDER would be is driving off with idle on its fast idle cycle a good idea / i.e. hurt the engine???;;; also ,would most cars' fast idle cycle disengage and go to normal idle speed earlier than normal? / is this ok? !
All those facts here are true. In 2023 I bought a used car with a quarter million kilometers on the clock, all engine parts original (2L Diesel 4 cylinder). The owner knew how to handle cars, always warming up gently, letting cool down after pushing the engine, doing proper maintenance. Engine runs perfect and I handle it the same, it can still have a long life. And what do I do for avoiding short trips? Going close places by bicycle. Barely any errands in the range of 10 miles actually need a car. Society has just agreed on being lazy.
Video: After 30-60 sec, GENTLY drive your car. ME: Live 1 min from freeway, GENTLY driving onto the merge ramp and holding up traffic on because this video says soo. 💀
I put a hot water bottle under my engine at night and sing it lullaby's, in the morning goes a hot cup of coffee into the fuel tank and a piece of toast under the air filter.
I wait for the RPM drop by the engine controls before selecting a gear. This reduces the shock on the transmission and driveline. Otherwise I have long used the technique you outlined. The short distance drive is sometimes unavoidable.
Something you can do to get that 30 to 60 seconds you need to warm up your engine is to start the car and then put on your seatbelt check the mirrors etc. It gets you those critical seconds but not wasting them.
when the engine is cold it will probably run rich because the O2 sensors aren’t ready so 60s idle is enough to warm then up at idle cars run at optimum air fuel ratio, however, long idle times can cool down the o2 sensors and then they may start to run richer. if they have heated sensors this should not happen
If this is true, please explain to me how I got my 2003 acura mdx 3.5l from 25k miles to 398k miles not doing anything on this clip. My car has the original engine and transmission. I warm up my car 20 minutes every morning before I drive 40min one way off to work. I used Walmart tech brand full synthetic oil since 30k miles up to 398k miles. I'm not even talking about brand name oil like castrol or mobile 1.
Hello. I have a 2016 bmw 218i active tourer with a 1.5 turbo 3 cylinder and a automatic transmission. When the engine is cold ( mostly in fall and winter time). And the engine is rev above 1000 RPM it’s not able to drive away. The car will simply not accelerate and go in second gear. I have to wait about. 40’seconds and than the meter is below 1000 RPM and than i can drive away without issues. Is this normal?
During cold start the engine R P M is running higher wait a little bit to drop & then go but don't force the engine let the car go until reached operational temperature & cold oil lubricated all parts !
I've long wondered why ICE cars don't have a small oil reservoir after the filter and an electric motor to circulate that oil BEFORE starting the engine. Seems like a no-brainer with the minimal cost being recovered in MUCH longer engine life.
What about some of the LS engines? They have a considerable period of piston slap until it warms up. As an OLD man, I will continue my OLD habit. With automatic chokes and/or enrichers, just warm up the engine until the idle speed drops to the low idle. The computer will know when the engine is ready to begin bearing any loads. If you have an automatic transmission, it also fully circulates the transmission fluid so that all of the transmission systems are fully lubricated. In In the old days with a manual choke, you just let the choke in to test if the engine will continue to run. When it does, you are ready to roll. On some older automatic chokes, just gently kick the accelerator to see if it will drop to low idle. If it does, you are ready to roll. Those older systems relied on the temperature of the engine/carburetor to reach its designed operating temperature to function normally. It was a general skill to understand your vehicle’s engine and carburetor. Nowadays, the vehicle’s computer system measures and adjusts your air and fuel flow, and your engine and intake temperature several hundred times per minute. Unless there’s something drastically wrong with your engine management system, it will essentially tell you when it is safe to begin driving. These computerized engine management systems began back in the mid 1970s, and became pretty standardized by the mid 1990s. And, with modern engines, the oil galleries and passages are getting smaller, while increasing the oil flow rates, requiring thinner oils. Because today’s OEM oils are so thin, it becomes very important to keep to the OEM oil viscosity ratings. Otherwise, the oil will be too thick to make it through some of the smaller oil passages. Also, always use the heavy use oil change schedule, AND always change your oil filter when you change your oil. Why the heavy use schedule? If you read the types of driving on that schedule, you will find that it describes the driving of more than 90% of drivers. Also, if you have one of those very modern direct injection engines, keep an eye on the intake system AND your Positive Crankcase Ventilation System. If it’s not operating correctly, you will be sucking oil into your intake system, causing considerable carbon buildup on your intake valves. Anyway. This Old Man recommends that you wait until your idle speed drops, instead of just waiting 30 seconds. Your car’s computer system will let you know when it is safe to drive.
you dont gotta be THAT gentle when its cold, just give it like 15 seconds runtime (idling or driving) and you should be fine to go to mid revs and wide open throttle. if your car has piston oil jets you can redline by the time you get to half warm coolant. the best way to keep your car on the road for as many miles as possible is maintenance all around, not just the engine.
Sir everything you said makes sense especially if you're driving American cars. But I drive Toyotas and had several of them over the years the mileage has been 168,000 too 417,000 with the oldest being a 1996 Camry. And every single one of them ran until I got rid of it. Just routine maintenance driving over 100 plus miles a day with cold starting and all the other stupid stuff you do behind the wheel. "JUST Saying" Toyota 👁️
Living in a northern state (Wisconsin). I crank my vehicle over and warm it up for a few minutes only if I have to remove a copious amount of ice or snow from my windows and have no other option than to do so before traveling for safety reasons. On a regular day I start my vehicle and wait for the tachometer to drop a bit (usually 30 seconds to a minute) throw it in gear and drive slowly until it reaches a better operating temperature. Some solid tips from this video in my humble opinion!
Why not scrape off the ice and snow before starting it?
@@joby602 prob to let the engine warm up while scraping the ice off
@@ethannguyen9363 Agreed. Wisconsin has very cold winters with lots of snow and ice, so combine the
times of snow and ice removal with a 1-2 minute idle time looks good to me... but not longer than that. If
more time than that is needed, remove half of the ice and snow, start the engine, then do the other half.
@@ethannguyen9363 And breathing fumes in the process.
The advice is priceless - thank you!
The worst thing is... almost no-one will listen to it...
Then they will pay the price when their engine dies prematurely.
Education can be expensive but ignorance is MUCH more costly.
The thing is not, that nobody listens - the thing is, those people who hav3 no knowledge about such things are not gonna watch such videos in the first place. When you don't know important things, you don't know that you should know.
I still remember fondly, how it hurt by remote, when walking the streets in cold winter, somebody jumping into his old car and immediately speeding off with ice cold engine, reving it hard.
I was an engine mechanic in a large dealership back when you could rebuild and repair practically the entire car.
The veteran engine mechanic who had been there since 1950 said to me before he retired " the little old lady's car who only drove to church is the car you dont want to buy.
For all of the reasons you stated in this video.
Along with the proper recomnended viscosity also use quality name brand lubricants and if you live in the northern tier of the 48 states change your oil at half the recommended mileage.
I have maintained my and my families vehicles for decades.
Engine work is one thing we never had to do other than proper maintenace.
Any oil brands recommendations for a 2014 suzuki scross petrol?
wonder how many motors are ruined these days with bad electric cooling fans and relays/sensors....the ultimate in planned obsolescence...don't get me started on interference motors!!!!!
@@matthewtarka2804
I hear you.
Especially interference engines with belt driven cams.
Makes absolutely no sense.
I would also add that oil temp is prob more important than coolant temp. Oil temp takes long to get to operating temperature than coolant temp does. In other words just because your coolant temp is at operating temperature doesn't mean that you oil temp is too. Unfortunately for most modern vehicles, the car doesn't let you see your oil temp. Just another way modern cars don't last long and are engineered to get you into another new car sooner. Money money money, the only thing that matters to some.
That’s the great thing about my 2014 x5, it has an oil temp gage… I don’t hit the freeway until the temp needle starts moving.
Very well spotted.
Many cars with digital dashboards provide this.
What u talkin bout, most old cars dont show oil temp.... the newer ones do
If there is no oil temperature sensore there is anyway oil pressure sensor (displayed on the dashboard), wait until pressure reaches working range because it is correlated with the temperature ( higher oil pressure on low oil temperature, lower oil pressure on high oil temperature ).
I had heard the opposite about idling car engines at cold start. The premise being what you mentioned about expansion rates of dissimilar metals and materials recommending it. Also the auto start feature on new cars is for that purpose. Especially in the winter months a car is usually started and allowed to warm up to circulate cold oil and clear windows using the climate controls.
About the oil, I agree with temperature and viscosity being factors for oil grades, but another major factor is maintaining fuel efficiency which is why oil viscosity numbers and ISO grades have been reduced over the years.
The ideal way to cold start your cars is using an engine pre-heater, of course. But not everybody has an outlet, even if you do have an outlet at home, where do you plug in at work, etc.?
Sorry for my bad english, im German. I try to explain it another Way.
Its all about cooling. You know why a Nascar is able to drive 4 Hours Flat out at 8000rpm, and a F1 Car cant do this?
Because of cooling. The cooling System of a Nascar is build this Large that it can handle 4 Hours 8000rpm.
The cooling System in your Street Car is build to normal Driving in Traffic.
If you start your Engine and let it run in Idle it never get Temperature. Maybe in the Summer it will get Temperature, but in the Winter? Forget it. You can run your Engine for 2h in Idle and it never get warm.
All you do is putting exreme wear and stress on your Engine, while lettig it run for 10minutes while it is cold.
Like in the Video sayed, try to get the Engine warm as fast as possible. To minimize Engine wear.
Very helpful and very much common sense but nice to hear from a pro!!!
Have had piston slap in my 5.3 LS engine for 150,000 miles, still running 😊
Yes my LS1 Camaro has piston slap almost all the ls engines do the 4.8 to 5.3 the 5.7 you just have to not floor it when cold wait a few minutes unfortunate for me of not waiting enough but still don't have any serious problems
Always wait for it to subside and go away before putting any load on the engine. To reduce weight, they no longer use deep skirt pistons, which is why they slap. Of course, that the pistons are now made of aluminum, which shrinks and expands far more than iron, is but another reason why they slap (more of a rocking than slapping). They need to heat up to expand to the point where they stop rocking. The problem is that the “piston slap” was designed into the engine so that shallower, lighter pistons could be used to reduce the reciprocating mass. Good for racing, but I wonder about the wisdom for an engine designated for trucks.
I told my wife that we need to park our cars in our garage. Even unheated, the garage temperature is 49-53 when outside is 30-35. And our cars don’t have cloudy light covers even after 15 years. Some of my neighbors, for a variety of reasons like their cars are leased, park outside. In the winter, it’s like refrigerating the cars which is 37 for my frig.
Well, you're right about the garage! And not only that, you can splice in an engine block pre-heater to one or both the cars, since you have somewhere to plug them into.
Short trips are fine if you clean up your engine and exhaust system once a week with a longer drive (20+ km)
Depends on what you call a "short trip". Ignoring the exhaust system and considering the engine alone, as long as the engine goes through at least 1 coolant cycle, meaning the thermostat has opened and closed and the engine gets into its normal closed-loop thermal control range, then all the metals have settled into their design tolerances, everything is nice and wet, including the seals. Repeatedly shutting your engine off before this thermal equilibrium is reached will age the engine for sure. It's also good to run it long enough to cook off any moisture inside. This was especially true for engines of the past. Modern engines are obviously a little more tolerant.
Yeah I sort of felt that. When I go on errands I go to the furthest place first and finish my last errand closest to home. I also don't rev up my engine after I start it. First of all it is on fast idle when it is cold. All I have to do is let the clutch out and it goes fast enough to back out of the driveway.
If you have a display with instant fuel use display. Start the car, wait idle until liters/km shows near your average value when car is fully warmed up AND when your rpm goes down to your average fully warmed up range. Example for a 1.6 turn 2019 c180 coupe would be less than 1l/km and rpm between 700-650rpm. Idle times are usually longer in winter if you cold start with ac or heater immedietly on (which is never recommended)
If you have a turbocharged engine it's also a good idea to let your engine ldle for a minute before shutting it off. The turbocharger is extremely hot and needs time to cool down.
This should only be relevant, when you pushed your engine hard before. If you drove through town in a relaxed way before, idling shouldn't be crucial.
But also it's not a bad idea to just generally do it. I let my car idle for a minute before shutting off.
Most of this doesn't apply to hybrids since at the beginning when you turn the car ON the engines doesn't even start because the vehicle is running mainly on the car's hybrid battery
I disagree with the idling. I have let my engines in my Fords sometimes idle for 30 minutes before I jump in and leave.
I get 300,000 miles plus out of my engines been doing this for almost 40 years.
Of course I am absolutely fanatical about maintenance. Either way idling is never hurt my engines.
And also wasted truckloads of fuel
I 100% agree with everything you have said. Finally, someone with common sense and mechanical sympathy
After ordering a 23 maverick 2 years ago I got it September of last year, 2023 :) I sometimes jump in and go but don't speed off fast due to me having to leave the neighborhood. So it really works out and other times I'll idle as suggested. I've always done my best when it came to that advice. And especially since it's still new to me I really have to be careful with this mav. I'm an hour north of Philly so not nearly as cold as Colorado I'd imagine.
Hi, as a trained auto tech, I total agree with all of these points!!!!!!! Good video.
I live in Wisconsin. It can get -30 below zero or colder. Windows are frozen solid. We have no choice but to let it idle until you can see out your windows.
no problem...get an e/v...by the time you can scrape of the ice to drive...you will need a charge...free day off...
Sounds like most people commenting may live in southern California or Florida.
I grew up in Northern Minnesota. 30-50 below 0 is not unheard of, and I've experienced 85 below 0 wind-chill...117 degrees below freezing.
You could literally drive for 30 minutes and it would still be -20 to -50 inside your car, if you followed the idle for 30 seconds and go routine.
Who wants to dress for an Antarctic expedition for their daily commute?
A little off topic, but I currently live in Colorado and studded tires are legal here. Seems like they should be legal in every snowbelt state. I grew up in Duluth, Minnesota, picture a miniature San Francisco. Most of the city is built on a very steep hillside.
People claim cars running studded tires cause alot of road damage. Semis cause 100,000 times the damages as a car with studded tires. A 40,000 - 80,000 pound truck literally crushes the road. Where do you think the grooves in highways come from?
I don’t agree with your 1 min warm up before driving. I was told 4-5 min warm up is better especially in cold weather so your Oil Temp also approaches operating temperature. I agree with the rest.
Agree
"Youbwere told"? Who told you? This guy here is an engine mechanic, so he certainly knows the matter. The guy whol told you, is he more knowledgable by evidence?
Because the things said are simply true. When you let it idle at cold temps, the engine tolerances are suboptimal and the oil is thick. And especially for Diesel engines, idling for a couple minutes does nothing, very little heat is generated.
You can disagree with opinions, but you can't disagree with physics. The things said here are not opinions, they are physical facts.
Oh also, he didn't talk about a 1 minute warm up period. It's not about warming up, it's about giving the oil a bit of time to flow everywhere. The best warm up is to drive gentmy.
Yeah your right. But if you have to do small trips you can make sure you give it a good run for 20- 40 or more minutes at least once or twice a week to burn off the carbon build up 👍.
Thanks, Exactly! A good long drive helps burn off moisture and carbon buildup, keeping your engine in good condition. Great tip! Thank you 👍"
I am a retiree drives my 2009 Ford Taurus ( since 2020 ) for short local trips to nearby supermarket library senior center within 2-4 miles radius. So, you recommend I drive it once or twice week out of town ?
@@stephanielau1705Yes, your engine oil takes at least 15 minutes to warm up properly (longer when it’s cold). Plus you will prolong your exhausts’ lifespan because you removed all of the moist from it during your (longer) drive. 👍🏻
If it's had new oxygen sensors, catalytic converter. Egr valve. Than you might be ok. But if them things come up as warning lights on dash then it might help to give it a good run now and then. I'm only speaking from experience. I'm not a mechanic.@@stephanielau1705
If it's had new oxygen sensors, catalytic converter, egr valve it might be ok. But if they come up as warning lights then it might be a good idea to give it a good run now and then. I'm only speaking from experience I'm not a mechanic.👍.
I usually wait till my RPM needle drops to 1,000rpm so it's not revving high and making a loud noise on a cold start. When it's warmer outside, I start up my car and leave after 30 seconds. This is the reason why I rarely ever have to do repairs on my cars.
That’s exactly how I do it. On a cold start, the engine in our CX-5 is around 1500 rpm. As soon as it drops to 1000rpm, I put it in gear and drive away.
My freind John who rebuilds his 2 cars and a positrack truck every few years, and he told me that almost all engine wear happens at startup because there is no oil in the top of the engine. He agrees with you; let it idle for a minute or 2, and start driving gently until the engine is fully warmed up.
I do pretty much all of this on my cls550 a twin turbo v8 with 158k miles on her now no major issues and recently did a bore scope inspection and he said it’s better than most engines he’s seen with the miles if you care about your car follow all these steps!!
One of the things I did when I rebuilt my Tundra 4.7 to 5.0 engine was to use teflon skirt of Pistons. And I also added a pre-oiler that I took out of my old H 1 Hummer. When I start my truck up, the first position is accessory. It turns the pre-oiler for 30 seconds and then I start the engine up. I’ve also got this set up on my auto start. Basically I’ve programmed the auto start through a script file to turn on the pre-oiler for 30 seconds and then start the engine up
Some new cars have an electric oil pump. These do the same thing in that they can spool up in advance of starts and throttle movement. So instead of responding to rpm it can push oil based on throttle position.
Thank you for your solid advice.
Agree with everything said but let's face with new vehicles today something else will go wrong with it way before it gets anywhere near a rebuild"probably electrical" a sensor will go wrong and unless you can DIY you'll be going backwards and forwards to the garage to sort it costing you a fortune!
I'm all for keeping older cars because you can fix them but steer well clear of newer stuff, all depending where you live but here across the pond the powers that be are trying their hardest to get us off the road, so just keep driving while you can.
If it ain't broke don't fix it!
Happy new🎉😊
Hard to disagree with these tips. As a biker it droves me nuts when fellow bikers leave their engines idling for 15 minutes "to warm up"usually with a loud exhaust pipe too!
I would argue, that these tips absolutely count for cars, but a lot less for bikes. Because bike engines are smaller than car engines and they are all gas, bike engine do heat up very fast when idling. I had a liter bike a while ago, and this thing showed full coolant temp after 2 minutes of idling. And riding a bike gently to heat up is a lot trickier than cars. My bike was brand new and I was supposed to keep the engine under 4,000rpm in the first 500 miles and under 6,000rpm in the second 500 miles. And the engines of sporty bikes run a lot smoother the higher the rpm. Riding at max 4,000 was tricky, and no joy.
But other than bikes simply heating up better and quicker than cars, the physical basics are also true.
Very valuable information, yes you are a honest mechanic
i bought a ford mondeo new back in 2008. it now has over 230k miles on it. No issues at all. Engine is fine, Turbocharger is fine. And how do i drive? Exactly like in the video. Engine startup, no revs. After 30 seconds i start the driving. No full throttle until it has reached operating temp + 5 mins for the warm oil to reach the turbocharger. I never drive short trips with this car, every startup leads to a longer drive. After longer highway trips i let the car cool down in idle for 30 seconds. The Engine never needed a repair. it works like on day 1.
Send this video to all of your family members. Everyone should drive like this.
I have been told, that although engines are designed to drive cold (within reason) , the power steering pump can't take it. Considering this pump is attached to the outside of the engine , it should take a few minutes to warm up so to not to cause damage.
A little warm up needs to be done not to temp but til temperature gauge comes up a little
Great info. Thanks.
I own a fishing cottage in Flin Flon Manitoba 515 miles NW of Winnipeg , I spend some winters there and it can drop to -40 below at any given moment , I have to change the motor oil to 0-10 weight plus utilize a block heater and a coolant circulator and battery blanket as well just so it might start , Even running a heat houser on the front grill the engine wont get above cold at all and idling does very little !
Great advice that everyone should heed.
The point about fuel dilution is very true. On cold startup, at idle, the engine will run rich the entire time. A larger percentage of fuel will make its way to the oil, which is not good.
I had a coworker that I carpooled with and one thing he always did was start his car cold and immediately into gear. Cringed every time he did that! I always give it a minute to circulate before driving off.
Thanks for the information. What about for diesel engine for example 6.7 cummins? On ram 3500 chassis cab. 2017.😊😊
Same thing. This goes for all engines. The Cummins is really reliable, however that air heater in the intake manifold will eventually break off and that screw will go into the piston and destroy the engine. I’d suggest you replace that with the gale banks monster ram. Good upgrade for more airflow, but also stops that screw from destroying your engine.
@@2seep thank you!!!😊😊😊🙋♂️🙋♂️
You have 100% right. Thx for great content.
This also applies for a rebuilt 84 302?
From what I’ve learned from this video, you could probably get away with idling for 5 minutes and for short trips might be able to get away with that again doing the light load in order to avoid damage.
Something typically missed about warm-ups is that you need to warm up the automatic transmission fluid that circulates through the transmission radiator/heat exchanger up front. On Subarus that's what the blue thermometer light is about. When it goes off it is okay to use the transmission.
The end of my driveway is at the top of the hill. Can’t drive gently! 😂
Even before looking at this video I’ve done correctly four out of the five. The only thing is short trips every so often.
I do everything you said!
I always warm my 2005 Mitsubishi Colt Plus Ralliart - with the 4G15T engine - after start for 45 secs.
Which I time on the stopwatch on my phone.
Then I drive slowly away not going above 2000rpm until the temp gauge gets into mid range.
Luckily I live atop a hill so I can part coast down.
The only thing I've been bad for that you pointed out is driving the 75 seconds to the supermarket down the road, shutting down then shopping.
Then starting again and coming home.
I need to stop doing that!
Must plan stops at the supermarket when the car is warm say on the way home from being out.
If I've been away and been pushing my car I will let it idle down for 60 seconds to let turbo oil cool.
I don't push it hard enoug to warrant getting a turbo-timer.
She's a torquey thing my 4G15T.
The Turbo starta sucking & blowing at 2600rpm.
I can easily stay below that around town and easily keep up with traffic.
Another fab watch sir.
Happy New Year from Australia East Islands!
Grayson
How do you warm up a cold engine for oil change?
Cruise around at least 20 minutes. I tried a driveway warm up, but the oil was s-l-o-w draining.
I am gonna go out on a limb and say you start the vehicle and let it run for a few min🙄. Although it is not needed anyways.
This is why I go with older Lexus/Toyota😉
In actually, the correct warm up should be to start your engine for 1 to 2 minutes and then driving easy for about 5 to 6 miles to completely warm up the whole vehicle. Which includes the engine, transmission, differential and all other bearings (wheel, drive shaft and more).
Your engine needs 1-2min to start?!
Lol
I start my car the nite before , I want to drive and sit in it in my garage to make sure everything is OK, but I don’t seem to feel very well these days- must be getting older!
getting older yes.... i can relate.... but sitting in a garage with the engine running...... all i can think about is carbon monoxide poisoning. please be careful.
After watching this, I'm definitely gonna warm up my Nissan Leaf 🍀 in future, hopefully engine last longer, I've always just pressed start & away but that must wear, like, loads of the engine, right? 😮
I just love you videos!
Great videos man!
Hey Petarprotic thanks for watching and your kind words! Really appreciate the support!
It’s the automatic transmission that needs to warm up more than engine temperature
I been using oil pan heater magnets for years!! Get yourself one !
In ND in winter it can get -20. Sorry not leaving after 30 seconds. I auto start the full 15 minutes. BUT: I change the oil right away in March after auto start season. It may only get 1500 miles from Nov thru March. Then I drop the oil.
Either way, if i start my car at 20 degrees it still has to run in order to warm up so what's the difference if I start to drive 25 mph in lew of just sitting still?
Can you call my granddaughter? 😂😂😂 Been telling her these things for awhile...Good stuff, I'll forward your video. God bless.
I definitely do that first thing I do is turn the engine on in my Mercedes and let it warm up for a bit then I muck around with getting comfortable and getting everything together I need like music etc then I move off gently never stressing the engine in the first 5-10 mins
Let an engine to idle to warm up when near 0c is a good idea not a bad one
My VW Citi Golf still has a manuel choke…in the car booklet it suggest pulling out the choke and drive stright away.I must say we don’t have very cold winters in Johannesburg South Africa.🇿🇦
I always thought a multi grade oil is thinner when it's cold, the ideal being, oil needs to be thin at start up so it flows faster to all the components. I can understand a mono grade oil being thicker but not a mult grade.
Thanks for sharing
I live in Phoenix , Az . Most of the year my engine hasn't even cooled down much after working all day or even in the morning . I just wore my jacket the first time this winter on 12-28-24 . The heat is excessive in the summer , but I hate the cold even more . Cold weather and ice is for polar bears ! 😅
In a Electric car you can dtive avay directly
When the temp is in the teens and my truck has sat for a couple days I'll "Clear Flood Mode" for a few seconds to get oil up into the lifters, valves and cylinders.
Drives me crazy witnessing neighbours putting it into gear before the initial RPMs have dropped,ICE- cold!You wake-up,jump out of bed and start running,before even cleaning the sleep from your eyes.😎👍✌🇨🇦
It's simple as far as I'm concerned. Get in. Start the vehicle. Let the revs come down a bit. Then drive. I said drive! Not take to your neighborhood streets like an asshole.😮
The first one is especially cringe worthy. I live in Colorado. On more than one occasion on a 30-40 below 0 night, I've seen people jump in their car and hold the throttle to the floor for 10 straight minutes. Literally bouncing off the rev limiter, for at least 5-10 minutes straight.
I always warm my car up, at least until it comes off of fast idle.
Have you ever driven a car for an hour when every surface in the car is 30-40 below 0 ?
@HonestMechanicChannel, your correct to let it idle 30-60s first and on all your other points ! You as well as other U-tubers on this subject, never CONSIDER/mention THE 2 step engine preset FAST IDLE!! [fastest then a kickdown to FAST (then normal)]!! I normally wait for the 2nd kick-down before I take off; which by the way is your 30-60s (?maybe longer if 'really' cold?). I take it easy then [ keep between 2-3,000 or so (4k)rpm], till OIL temp. needle begins to move off peg. I THINK FROM NOW ON you incorporate /mention fast idle into your future comments on cold starting. {a GOOD question TO CONSIDER would be is driving off with idle on its fast idle cycle a good idea / i.e. hurt the engine???;;; also ,would most cars' fast idle cycle disengage and go to normal idle speed earlier than normal? / is this ok? !
Thanks.
best rule, is to allow a 3-5-minute warmup time. it gives all the fluids a chance to circulate, and warmup. it also allow the idle speed to stabilize.
Depends highly on the temperature. Cold is not an absolute thing. I dont let my car run for minutes as long its only 0°C. Maybe when its -20°
All those facts here are true. In 2023 I bought a used car with a quarter million kilometers on the clock, all engine parts original (2L Diesel 4 cylinder). The owner knew how to handle cars, always warming up gently, letting cool down after pushing the engine, doing proper maintenance. Engine runs perfect and I handle it the same, it can still have a long life.
And what do I do for avoiding short trips? Going close places by bicycle. Barely any errands in the range of 10 miles actually need a car. Society has just agreed on being lazy.
Waiting for idle down is sufficient
Correct - that is literally the car telling you its got this figured out - and it's different for each car...
@@chuntzinger677 see my comments.
Video: After 30-60 sec, GENTLY drive your car.
ME: Live 1 min from freeway, GENTLY driving onto the merge ramp and holding up traffic on because this video says soo. 💀
Good tips, unfortunately falling on deaf ears. The clowns that trash their vehicles don’t watch this type of video.
I put a hot water bottle under my engine at night and sing it lullaby's, in the morning goes a hot cup of coffee into the fuel tank and a piece of toast under the air filter.
Just don't start it ,no Wear 😂just kidding good stuff . Thank you
I wait for the RPM drop by the engine controls before selecting a gear. This reduces the shock on the transmission and driveline.
Otherwise I have long used the technique you outlined. The short distance drive is sometimes unavoidable.
Something you can do to get that 30 to 60 seconds you need to warm up your engine is to start the car and then put on your seatbelt check the mirrors etc. It gets you those critical seconds but not wasting them.
An accurate video
when the engine is cold it will probably run rich because the O2 sensors aren’t ready so 60s idle is enough to warm then up
at idle cars run at optimum air fuel ratio, however, long idle times can cool down the o2 sensors and then they may start to run richer. if they have heated sensors this should not happen
If this is true, please explain to me how I got my 2003 acura mdx 3.5l from 25k miles to 398k miles not doing anything on this clip. My car has the original engine and transmission.
I warm up my car 20 minutes every morning before I drive 40min one way off to work.
I used Walmart tech brand full synthetic oil since 30k miles up to 398k miles.
I'm not even talking about brand name oil like castrol or mobile 1.
How about on your way back? How long do you warm it up?
Hello. I have a 2016 bmw 218i active tourer with a 1.5 turbo 3 cylinder and a automatic transmission. When the engine is cold ( mostly in fall and winter time). And the engine is rev above 1000 RPM it’s not able to drive away. The car will simply not accelerate and go in second gear. I have to wait about. 40’seconds and than the meter is below 1000 RPM and than i can drive away without issues. Is this normal?
yep, safety feature
During cold start the engine R P M is running higher wait a little bit to drop & then go but don't force the engine let the car go until reached operational temperature & cold oil lubricated all parts !
I've long wondered why ICE cars don't have a small oil reservoir after the filter and an electric motor to circulate that oil
BEFORE starting the engine. Seems like a no-brainer with the minimal cost being recovered in MUCH longer engine life.
Your wrong warm up the engine with long idle then take off slow. Bad advice
yeah u rite
What about some of the LS engines? They have a considerable period of piston slap until it warms up. As an OLD man, I will continue my OLD habit. With automatic chokes and/or enrichers, just warm up the engine until the idle speed drops to the low idle. The computer will know when the engine is ready to begin bearing any loads. If you have an automatic transmission, it also fully circulates the transmission fluid so that all of the transmission systems are fully lubricated. In
In the old days with a manual choke, you just let the choke in to test if the engine will continue to run. When it does, you are ready to roll. On some older automatic chokes, just gently kick the accelerator to see if it will drop to low idle. If it does, you are ready to roll. Those older systems relied on the temperature of the engine/carburetor to reach its designed operating temperature to function normally. It was a general skill to understand your vehicle’s engine and carburetor. Nowadays, the vehicle’s computer system measures and adjusts your air and fuel flow, and your engine and intake temperature several hundred times per minute.
Unless there’s something drastically wrong with your engine management system, it will essentially tell you when it is safe to begin driving. These computerized engine management systems began back in the mid 1970s, and became pretty standardized by the mid 1990s. And, with modern engines, the oil galleries and passages are getting smaller, while increasing the oil flow rates, requiring thinner oils. Because today’s OEM oils are so thin, it becomes very important to keep to the OEM oil viscosity ratings. Otherwise, the oil will be too thick to make it through some of the smaller oil passages. Also, always use the heavy use oil change schedule, AND always change your oil filter when you change your oil. Why the heavy use schedule? If you read the types of driving on that schedule, you will find that it describes the driving of more than 90% of drivers.
Also, if you have one of those very modern direct injection engines, keep an eye on the intake system AND your Positive Crankcase Ventilation System. If it’s not operating correctly, you will be sucking oil into your intake system, causing considerable carbon buildup on your intake valves.
Anyway. This Old Man recommends that you wait until your idle speed drops, instead of just waiting 30 seconds. Your car’s computer system will let you know when it is safe to drive.
you dont gotta be THAT gentle when its cold, just give it like 15 seconds runtime (idling or driving) and you should be fine to go to mid revs and wide open throttle. if your car has piston oil jets you can redline by the time you get to half warm coolant. the best way to keep your car on the road for as many miles as possible is maintenance all around, not just the engine.
Gone in 60 seconds 😎
Wrong. No such thing as excessive idling. Do not drive till engine heats up.
I usually wait until the RPM needle drops to 700 RPM
It usually takes takes 4 to 5 minute
With new diesels, leaving them idol to warm up causes your dpf to load up.
Modern cars last WAYlonger than they used to. What are you talking about?
Back in the olden days we were lucky to get 50k miles out of a car!
You can crack an engine by running cold. iy is called thermal cracking.
Sir everything you said makes sense especially if you're driving American cars. But I drive Toyotas and had several of them over the years the mileage has been 168,000 too 417,000 with the oldest being a 1996 Camry. And every single one of them ran until I got rid of it. Just routine maintenance driving over 100 plus miles a day with cold starting and all the other stupid stuff you do behind the wheel. "JUST Saying" Toyota 👁️
1:08 2:35
A lot of vehicles I've started have revved up fast after starting I'll have to check my rpms when i start it 😮
The biggest way to ruin your car is take it to the workshop.
I know, I've lost count how many I've sent to a better place.
Your piston reaches operating temperature in about 8 seconds, the engine block takes about 20 minutes...
my cars have always run better in the winter.
I will negociate 0-8 or 0-16 oils anytime. Even 0-20.