I had been very frustrated with this issue. I usually eat my lunch in the truck while listening to radio, a podcast, or chatting on the phone. The price of gas is too high to keep the engine running while I eat. I had spent a few hours reading chat rooms before finding this video. After watching, I walked out to the garage, unplugged it. Took less than 5 minutes. Flipped the key to accessory position and my error was gone. Then, I came in and read some of the recent comments about how leaving it unplugged might not be a good idea. So the next morning, I started my truck, ran it for 30 seconds and then shut it down and plugged the plug back in. So far, so good the error has not come back and I am very thankful for this post.
@@WrestlingErnestHemingway The error came back a few days later. That was disappointing. However, when the weather warmed up, it fixed itself. It's July now and has been working well for months. ?????
I unplugged this and it worked perfectly. After unplugging it, I started my 2014 F150 up and ran it for 30 seconds. Turned it off, plugged the cable in again, then restarted the engine. Turned the engine off again and the low battery signal didn’t come up again, and the cable was plugged in now. Fixed. Thanks.
I’m so excited to try this on my 2019 mustang. My dream car goes into power saver mode after only a few hours now. Dealerships keep telling me the battery is fully charged and I tell them of course it is, it was jumped. Duh. I miss the days when cars were just cars and not a computer.
Great video and straight to the point!! This worked on my 2013 Ford Taurus. Unhooked it, tested it and was fixed, then left unhooked overnight. Plugged it back in and still works! Thanks. I did air quotes when you said "diagnostic test" @ 1:39. Made me laugh. Thanks again!!
I did this fix for my 2013 Taurus SHO and it fixed the issue after it was unplugged, and it has remained working normally after plugging it back in. On my car model and year the censor is under the air intake hose below the battery's negative terminal along the cable...but too hard to get fingers on. The air intake hose removal is just loosening the 2 hose clamps (but not disconnecting them) and twisting them slightly clockwise to release them from a couple rubber stops. With that hose off it is just a 10 second disconnect as you described that worked great! Jake: Not sure how you connected this fix to the problem...I never would have. Thanks for sharing your straight forward video!!!
Glad it helped you get yours squared away. As far as how I connected the dots, well, I guess when I saw the message stating something about the battery that’s where I decided to start looking. Then I saw the sensor and hadn’t seen one before so I did a little research and decided to try taking it off. lol
I have a 2014 Edge and just encountered this problem after a battery change. Advanced Auto tested the new battery and it was good. The worker said it was the key fob, so I replaced the battery but as we all know here he was wrong, but a necessary diagnostic step. I did as suggested and reattached 30 minutes later and the problem seems to be resolved. TY for the video. YT mechanics have saved me $$$ This car has 165k on it and is in great condition and I’m determined to get 250k out of it.
Had installed a new battery and immediately started getting the message. I did as you said and it worked perfectly. Later I plugged the purple connector back in and haven't had anymore problems or getting the annoying message. Thanks muchly
Unplugged mine like you did and it worked. Then started it back up and ran the motor for five minutes, turned it off and plugged it back up and it had cleared the problem. 2011 ford f150 stx.
Just unplugging the cable did not work for me but I ran the engine for 5 minutes with it unplugged, turned the car off, plugged it back in and the light went away. Thanks John
I lived with the save battery from yr 2 owning my truck. And this fixed it. Ford told me it was something that was built into the software thanks for this.
Yeah.... Ford is full of $hit. I avoid Ford dealers like the plague. I have a whole rant video about why. It’s long and just me talking but if you want a first hand account of multiple Ford experiences up and down the east coast it lays it out. I love my truck but will I buy another Ford anytime soon? Nope. From my own trials I have determined that right now the best truck in the same class is the RAM 1500. Glad it helped you out!
I really appreciate this fix. My 2013 Ford F-150 has had this problem for months. I bought a new battery from Costco and this didn’t help. The dealership was no help either. It’s so nice being able to listen to my radio again with the ignition switch turned off now. Besides, I also carry with me a battery jump unit just 8n case.Thank you for posting this!
Yeah I have a 2013. If you ever run into any issues send me a message. I’ve diagnosed and solved my fair share of them. Thanks for watching and please subscribe. Thanks again!
Might want to leave it reconnected. I know it’s a different year and different model but they obviously have some serious issues with this technology. Here’s the latest. www.wkbn.com/news/national-world/recalls/ford-says-some-vehicles-can-catch-fire-with-engines-off/?.com&fbclid=IwAR2f5m5epvLoK3Ol6YAi-NKVrX_gDyDv5bhkDjyFOLsPCzihlw9nO1ck8Nw&mibextid=Zxz2cZ
@@JakeInGeorgia yeah I think I'll just skip considering buying me a 2017-2020 used Lincoln Continental & just take it off my "wish" consideration list. And that is a shame as it is a beautiful car.
Jake, just wanna say THANK YOU. You just saved me $500. I had this same error code on my 2012 Lincoln MKX. I followed your instructions and the code disappeared! Before i googled and found your video, my mechanic on the phone said diagnostic test will be $150, parts will be at least $150 and then labor $200. I guess he thought it will be easy to make quick cash off me since I am a female 😂
Also, how was that mechanic able to quote you on parts and labor prior to a diagnostic test being done? The point of the diagnostic test is to find the issue! If it were me, I’d call him up and ask him that question then tell him to get bent.
@@JakeInGeorgia I told the mechanic what the error message was. He said he had repaired vehicles with that issue before so he kinda knows what the 'problem ' was. But that he still needs to do the diagnostic test to know for sure. And if it is what he thinks it is, then the parts is $150, labor $200 and testing $150. It didn't sit right with me so I googled the error message and your video was one of many. Again, thanks alot!
After doing some research on this, leaving this disconnected is not a good idea. This is a part of the EBS, and this system actually works in conjunction with the electronic control module for the entire charging system. The EBS controls the amount of voltage that your alternator produces to keep your battery charged. It is actually a complex system that not only reads the voltage of your battery, but also the temperature of it as well. So using these sensors input, the control module increases or decreases the amount of voltage being sent to your battery while the vehicle is in use. This sensor is actually the battery voltage sensor. There are 2 to 3 of these sensors depending on which vehicle is owned. This BVS is actually a hall effects sensor, and runs between $10 and $20. PN is BT4Z14B357C (Negative side). There could possibly be a sensor on the positive side as well as a current/temperature sensor that is on the positive terminal. I would recommend just replacing this sensor vs. unplugging it and leaving it unplugged. UPDATE: My wife has a 2014 Fusion, and her car kept getting the same message. I replaced the Battery Voltage Sensor, and now the message no longer appears. Took me about 15 minutes to replace, very easy. Also, when I installed the new one, the factory install had the BVS installed over the plastic loom covering the negative battery cable. To ensure this sensor is getting an accurate reading from the battery voltage, I removed the plastic loom covering where this sensor sits. So I installed the new sensor right on the battery cable and taped it up nice and tight. I do not understand why Ford has made these vehicles so incredibly dependent on electronics, and it can be a pain to pinpoint the issue. And it is doubly bad when you actually take your vehicle to the Dealership for this issue, and they tell you there is nothing wrong with the vehicle. But, this fixed the message issue with my wife's Fusion. Hope this helps some of you and good luck.
That’s a current transformer that wrapped around the negative terminal and can measure current through the magnetic field strength running through the negative. In order to run power management systems you need both voltage and current measurements to calculate power for multiple devices. This disconnecting method may solve one problem but create many others that one may not discover right away.
I sprayed contact cleaner in mine and plugged it back in.. my car stalled after doing so, had check charging system message and system off to save battery still appearing. Still I need to replace this sensor all together.
Thanks! Youre my hero! This was an annoying feature that just randomly started happening. I just went and fiddled around with it without completely disconnecting it and everything is working again
O M G!!! I just g ot an older (2011) F150 and it was having this issue... apparently the battery monitoring system was pre-2011.. but I digress... you sir deserve a reward for this. I took my truck into the shop and they said it was an ignition switch issue, and said they fixed it... but they didn't. YOU DID!!!!! OMG TYTYTYTYTYTYTYTY!
Glad it helped! UA-cam is a wonderful tool. Watching UA-cam videos has taught me many things about this truck and it has allowed me to fix things that professional mechanics couldn’t figure out. Whenever something goes wrong, my first stop is UA-cam.
Never add grounds to the battery side of the BMS. Those are now circuits that draw on the charging system that the BMS cannot see. Looking at the battery ground cable, those grounds must be between the frame ground and the BMS, not between the battery negative terminal and the BMS. In other words, move them to the other end of the battery negative cable so the BMS can then see the draw from those grounds as it flows between the battery negative terminal and the frame ground point. The BMS can then give the proper signal to the charging system to compensate for those extra draws, if not, the battery will eventually be completely discharged.
The issue being described in this video is due to the Body Control Module (BCM) having incorrect data about the battery State Of Charge (SOC). The device around the negative cable is a Battery Management System (BMS) sensor, a basic hall effect sensor. It relays information about the battery to the BCM. In this case, this is the early gen 1 version of BMS, so it only relays info about the battery amperage. Leaving the BMS connector unplugged can cause your Check Engine light to illuminate. All you need to do is reset the BMS. To reset the BMS: Turn the truck on, but don't start the engine. Wait until the battery warning light illuminates on the dash. Flash the high beams 5 times, then press and release the brake pedal 3 times. After about 10 seconds, the battery warning light will flash 3 times to indicate the BMS has been reset. This tells the BCM to relearn the battery SOC from the BMS sensor. You should reset the BMS whenever you see the System Off To Save Battery warning, or when you replace your battery so the BCM knows to relearn the battery SOC. The latest generation of the Ford BMS is a rectangular black box connected between the negative battery terminal and the negative battery cable. It's the same concept, but the information is more complete to include battery SOC, temperature & State Of Health (SOH). Resetting the BMS sensor on the latest generation is exactly the same procedure as the older BMS and works on all Ford models.
@@da4944 TLDR. Never had a CEL come on and owned this truck for a decade. This sounds like some ford technician BS. If you want to flip this switch 4 times, flash your high beams 6 times, do the Hokey Pokey and turn yourself around in an effort to fix the issue be my guest. Or you can just unplug this thing and have zero issues.
My 2011 crew cab had the same annoying problem.I’ll go out now and try this fix, l plan on plugging it back in after a while as some comments have said this issue did not come back after doing so. Finally that piece around the negative cable measures the electricity flow in the cable by measuring the magnetic field that is created when current flows in a wire.
This worked on my 2011 F150, although it makes me uneasy to leave something disconnected since I figure it must have a purpose. So, I disconnected the plug, shot the insides with electronic cleaner, then let it dry a couple minutes before plugging it back in. Fixed. Thanks for the tip bud.
Whatever works! Glad you got it squared away. I’ve been unplugged for a couple years now with no adverse effects to report. If you don’t mind subscribing it would mean a lot!
lol I was gonna ask some things about the future to be a smartass... but that would inevitably become political and I can’t right now... fuck Joe Biden by the way. 😆
No need for that! Were you able to find and unplug the connector? Curious, if you don’t mind sharing, what year and type of Ford do you have? I’m trying to piece together when they started this jackassery and what vehicles it was included on lol.
@@JakeInGeorgia mine's a 2015 Ford Escape. Will try your method later today. Took to dealer and they said the battery was fine, and well just to live with it. lol
@@GraveyardThought I’m willing to bet this will fix your problem. Keep me updated! I’ve come to learn that Ford dealership techs are both dumb and lazy. You shouldn’t have to “live with it” when you’ve spent tens of thousands of dollars on buying a vehicle from them.
I tried this and it worked for me. I thought about a while and decided to replace the sensor. Is called a battery temperature sensor. I found it online for $15.00. It is working normal now. The part # is BT4Z 14B357 C.
I have a 2014 Ford fusion, and I’m having the same issue. I’ve replaced the alternator and the battery and it shut down on me while driving to the doctors office this morning and I literally just got everything fixed yesterday. So I tried this and I let it run for a minute and then it made this weird like clicking grinding sound and everything shut off again me and my fiancé are at a complete loss of what to do to fix this can anyone help! Please!
Thanks im in London UK and have had this problem loads of times thanks for the info i put new battery in a year and a half ago still did it but this will be getting the treatment tomorrow Cheers
Bad ass dude. Thanks. This management system sucks. Micromanagement. B.S. Couldn't even reset. Couldn't even play music on a brand new top of the line battery.
I have a 2013 Ford Fusion SE ( Made in Mexico for US market) I tried repeatedly to reset the BMS on my car using the high beam switch/ brake pedal/battery lamp method and it DID NOT WORK, perhaps if my instrument cluster had a Battery Warning Lamp to see flash the three times to indicate that method was successful, it may have worked. But, no battery lamp to see. Anyway, I disconnected the BMS sensor, which I had already replaced a few months ago, and so far I can listen to my radio with no problem, unlike before when this stupid system would shut the radio off after only two minutes. That was after driving ten miles at 60 MPH and the battery being charged at 14.96 volts. If I scanned the car, I may see a DTC for that sensor being disconnected, but the Check Engine Lamp is not coming on, so I am happy with this fix to a stupid problem. By the way, I never had this problem until I replaced my five year old, original battery.
I have tried every tried in the book to get the "system off to save battery " ever since I replaced my battery in my 2016 f150 xlt 5.0 litre. It starts ok but even after a highway drive when I shut off the vehicle the system shuts off immediately. Very annoying 😒. I've watched every UA-cam video on the subject and nothing works. My problem was finally fixed when my mechanic said that even though my battery was supposed to "fit" my truck when I bought it- it was a little small. My 2 year old battery was 9.5 inches long with 660 CCA and when he put one that was 11 inches long and has 700 CCA my issue was GONE! Now I can listen to the radio without starting the engine. 😀 also make sure that your mechanic puts a scanning tool on to tell the computer in your truck that a new battery is Installed. Very important. 😉
I had to do a search on here for that exact same issue for my 2019 Edge because my ford pass phone app would not let me do a remote start because of the battery saver message. I havent tried this yet but seems to be a very simple solution and I will be checking it out and seeing if it works on my model year!
Omg this is great! My Edge does this nonstop for years n it drives me insane n I’m afraid the battery is going to be dead everytime I go out to start it!
Have a 2012 Edge. That input was on the positive side for me, but still had the purple color inside when you disconnect it. Once i disconnected the battery saver message went away
What’s the issue with your sync? I have had issues with mine in the past and have found I was able to “fix” it via 2 methods. The first method I tried was removing and reinserting the mini fuse in the passenger side kick panel for sync. If that does not work, I have found that doing a factory reset of the system usually corrects any gremlins.
My explorer is doing this with the power saving thing and also my sync will randomly make my touch screen go all black and there will be a message saying performing scheduled system maintenance check or something like that. Not sure what's going on.
3:47 Have a 2013 F150, put a new battery in and it started. Moved the truck and it sat for about a month and would not start. Finally after turning the key about a dozen times in park and neutral it started. Moved it again and now it has power but no start, replaced the ignition switch and still no start, now it flashes battery low. Battery is only three months old at this point. I will charge the battery and disconnect this sensor and see if that is the problem.
AWESOM VIDEO SO HELPFUL thank you. You have me now possibly reconsidering maybe purchasing a Lincoln Continental. That's if The Continental has this same connection easy enough to pull off & disconnect. Nah, all newer Fords seem to have this stupid Battery Saver mode. And I did find out 100% that all the 2017-2020 Lincoln Continentals & MKZ come with this Battery Saver feature sadly. So I'll pass on the problems that comes with it. This Battery Saver feature is the dumbest thing Lincoln Ford could have ever put in their vehicles. Why, WHY would they do this? Older people (which the Continental they sell to mostly) do not drive their cars everyday. Sometimes they might only want to use their car 2-3 times a week. Or maybe even once a week even. This VERY STUPID "Battery Saver" features makes it so they have to drive their car DAILY or they will need a jump start to start their car. Cars have been around forever and no cars use to need or require this kind of pure $HIT feature. I can figure out my battery issues on my own I don't need the car or Ford telling me and automatically shutting off my vehicle forcing me to jump start it just because I didn't need to drive the damn car for 3 days. THIS FEATURE IS PLAIN STUPID and annoying. Why would I bother buying a Lincoln or Ford that has this feature function? Especially elderly people that don't drive their cars more than once a week. Anyways, great helpful video. I WAS going look into it if this will work on the Lincoln Continentals but I'll pass and just get me a newer Toyota Avalon instead. Ford just lost another possible customer because of this stupid "System Off To Save Battery" feature. You just gained a new sub.
Doing this is like putting a piece of tape over your check engine light. It doesn't make the problem go away, it just gets rid of the light. That feature was put there for a reason. It simply monitors the charge in the battery, and if a low power condition is detected, you get a warning along with a broken circuit so you don't have to get your car jump started. Maybe you left your headlights on. Or maybe your alternator has an internal fault causing the battery to drain. Why wouldn't you want to know this?
@@johnpetrucci2590 Lets try and think this one through, because its complicated. This feature is a warning system designed to alert you to a potential problem. He's telling you to not ignore a problem. He's also telling you to disable the feature that tells you there is a problem. My question to you is this. If we shouldn't ignore a problem, why would you disable the warning system? I know its a tough question, but sometimes in life we have to deal with the really hard stuff.
I have an 07 explorer i bought for my wife. She told me she saw the message. I verified and checked the battery physically after seeing the message for myself and it had indeed started to collect some corrosion. Something my 03 grand marquis doesn't do. Thanks Ford for the upgrade.
Hey man, that "round thing" you talked about on the negative battery cable is an induction ammeter. It tells the computer how much current is being used at idle, when the AC is turned on, they the engine is off idle and a whole host of other things. Plug it back in. There is a very simple procedure in your owners manual on how to re-set the Battery Maintenance System. I think you may have led some people astray. This ain't your grandpa's car.
Bit of advice when adding accessories to vehicles that *_have_* BMS DO NOT DIRECTLY CONNECT TO THE BATTERY TERMINAL! ( 2:15 ) Instead find a good point on the chassis/body for the grounding point. When you connect directly to the battery the BMS doesn't recognize the additional load so the computer starts flag the battery as weak/dead because the voltage on the battery is not reaching the expected value with the amount of recharge applied from the alternator. When you connect to the ground to chassis the BMS will take the accessory's power draw into account. + Also, when replacing or recharging the battery the BMS needs to be set into learn mode... you can do this with some of the ODB tools or you may be able to follow (worked for mine without the scan tool by following these instructions): ua-cam.com/video/BiBBDnTUcIY/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/I_KmO-KaR4A/v-deo.html
2014 F150, I get this message usually after a long distace drive on a hot day. Ford dealer replaced tha battery, but the message came back. I did nothing because on colder days it's not happening and the battery has more than12.5 volts, e.g.fully charged. But thanks for your video.
I got the same warning message today. Car wouldn’t turn on at the gas station. I had to get a jump. I’m going to try this on our 2018 Ford expedition max
I'll try this tomorrow. It just started happening. However it's been -25 and colder the last several days. Thought maybe it had something to do with it
It very well could be. To be safe, I would test the battery first. Either do it yourself or go to a local auto parts store and have them test it for free. Of the battery checks out then remove the wire and it should fix it!
Hey man, thanks a bunch!! got a 2012 platinum in June and i'm discovering a lot of "lil" issues with it and this is one of them or should i say was one of them. Thankx!
You’re welcome. Unfortunately you got one of the 2009-2014 years that has a lot of “little issues” and if you’re lucky will dodge some of the “big issues”. I’ve had them all. Including a cylinder head issue that shut the truck down for 3 months. Not fun. I have plenty of videos to help guide you. None on the cylinder head because all my energy went into fixing that rather than documenting it but I have good information if you ever need it. Hopefully not.
Hello, I’m having a similar issue. I see the location of the item with the purple inside but how do you remove it? You mentioned about a tab underneath, making sure so I don’t mess it up. Thank you
It’s just a little tab/clip. Push in on it and pull them apart. It’s the same style clip they use on almost all other electrical wires. If you find this helpful please subscribe. I’m one subscriber away from a custom URL! Thanks!
This is an old vid but that circle thing around the negative battery cable is the old style battery monitoring system which monitors the state of the battery. If the system detects a low battery state it starts to shut off features to save the battery and you get that message. When you either charge or replace the battery you have to reset the BMS because it does not recognize a new battery or a recharge from a charger.
I honestly am not sure of that however it should be easy to figure out. There is a strong possibility it will since Ford/Lincoln are one and the same these days. I would look at the negative side of your battery terminal and see if you can locate this same wire. If a wire is there, remove it. If it works, problem solved. If not, no harm no foul. Wont cost you anything but 5 minutes of your time!
I was having the same problem on a 2016 ford Ford Fusion SE. I was getting the System Off To Save Battery message. After trying many different things I tried this and all the others. Never thought to see if the battery was drained!!
@@tyranp9206 I'm sorry but I don't remember. I believe it was a dead battery. My purpose was doing breaks and to depress drivers rear caliper piston it had to be turned in and then the system had to be put in "emergency brake maintenance" mode which I found instructions for on YT. There is a device that goes around one of the battery cables the I believe is part of the anti-theft system. I saw a video that said to unplug it. I did but it did not help immediately because the battery ended up being drained. When I jumped it, it started. I reconnected the cable and there has been no issues since from what I have heard. All this I found on YT. Good luck.
Got my ranger back from the garage after a repair of some warning lights and this started coming up. Sometimes I just want to listen to music when the engines off. So annoying! Might give it a try on mine and see what happens
Had this warning on my 2019 Ford Fusion Hybrid. Called AAA and they tested the battery and the battery was low. I charged the battery for the prescribed time of 2 hours at 10 AMPs. Seems to work, no more message on the screen.
@jakeingeorgia - hello my 2016 Ford Fusion is doing the same thing with the battery saver message and then the electrical shuts down on the dash and the radio and then the car loses power and dies. Do you know what this could be?
If the entire car is losing power to the point it will not run I unfortunately do not have the solution to your problem. Have you tested the battery and/or alternator?
It's not the sensor it's a lack of driving or, drain the sensor is detecting, or mostly the fact that Ford had to put this stupid System Off To Save Battery feature in their autos because they probably didn't TRUST their own alternators to handle all the new added electronics. Dumbest feature Ford could have even put in their vehicles.
That was Fords quick fix for a problem they couldn't fix and made the system shut off rather than fix a trickle current that might have been killing batteries!
I have no idea what that is but “deep sleep mode” to me sounds like just another Ford technical problem caused by a company trying to reinvent the wheel. My advice to anyone buying a vehicle is this: buy the most basic model you possibly can. You don’t want factory technical stuff that’s cheap and cost a fortune. You can add in better quality electronics for a better price after the vehicle is yours if you wish to do so.
I was wondering what was going on with it just had my battery tested at Ford dealer when they did my oil change couple of weeks ago. But that fix my problem on my 15 Explorer. Thx
Here I thought the remote start was causing the issue had it in three times they said nothing was wrong with it just unplug that and it started right up with the remote
My battery light came to save battery, found my battery bad. Fixed problem, new battery. After running for awhile, battery saver light gone and radio playing with ignition off.👍
Sometimes those connectors can be tricky. Especially when the plastic gets worn by heat in the engine bay and debris. Be patient with it. Try loosening it up by spraying Fluid Film on it.
@@davekarr6887 anytime. I learned my lesson to be patient when I broke a tab off the plastic connector for the ignition coil. Nothing bad but still. A little patience goes a long way. You’ll get it!
No, you don’t know your battery is charged regardless how new it is. If you take successive short trips of 10 minutes or less, your truck will not have adequate time to charge the battery. This will drag your battery’s charge down to a level that will cause the battery preserve mode. A battery tester will show this.
I just went and unplugged mine. Gonna find out when i get to work if it works. I tried resetting BMS system but that didn't work. This is such an annoying problem. If this works, i will plug it back in like others have commented to see if it stays off. Thank you for this video.
Garage finally found my issue after eliminating battery, aftermarket add-ons, alternator, etc. It is the Front Control Interface Monitor. I've been told it's cost me around $1100, guessing most of that is labor. There were other things that were happening that now make sense due to this. I just blew them off as fluke incidents but obviously they were not.
Resolved! It was corroded buttons in the keypad for the keyless entry on driver's door causing the issue. It was drawing 2.5A on battery when truck turned off. When it sat for 2 days that drained the battery. It would "wake up" almost every 30 minutes by itself. They replaced buttons and no more draw.
The owner installed wiring shown at 2:11 may cause problems. 2013 MKX Owners Guide To ensure proper operation of the battery management system (BMS), any electrical devices that are added to the vehicle should not have their ground connection made directly at the negative battery post. A connection at the negative battery post can cause inaccurate measurements of the battery condition and potential incorrect system operation. This device is a magnetic based current sensor. Presumably used to detect excessive current draw during engine off. The "System Off To Save Battery" Message seems to imply that the system thinks that the battery is critically discharged.
Thanks very much for awesome fix! I have a 2013 F150 with the 8” My Ford Touch screen. Mine was shutting down while I was driving, and setting my heater to run full blast with no way to turn off! 😰😱 Unplugged the sensor per your instructions and all is working again!
@@ashleymiddleton147 unfortunately I have no idea what that could be. There’s many possibilities. Once the car is started, the battery would not be responsible for the car to die. This might seem like a silly question but does your car have the economy feature where it cuts off while stopped and then turns back on when you hit the gas? If so, maybe try putting it in sport mode to see if it continues to happen.
I had been very frustrated with this issue. I usually eat my lunch in the truck while listening to radio, a podcast, or chatting on the phone. The price of gas is too high to keep the engine running while I eat. I had spent a few hours reading chat rooms before finding this video. After watching, I walked out to the garage, unplugged it. Took less than 5 minutes. Flipped the key to accessory position and my error was gone. Then, I came in and read some of the recent comments about how leaving it unplugged might not be a good idea. So the next morning, I started my truck, ran it for 30 seconds and then shut it down and plugged the plug back in. So far, so good the error has not come back and I am very thankful for this post.
Glad it helped!
I did exactly the same thing, and it worked for me too.
Seeing you plugged it back in, did the error ever return?
@@WrestlingErnestHemingway The error came back a few days later. That was disappointing. However, when the weather warmed up, it fixed itself. It's July now and has been working well for months. ?????
Thanks. Worked for my 2011 Edge. Plug was on the positive cable.
I unplugged this and it worked perfectly. After unplugging it, I started my 2014 F150 up and ran it for 30 seconds. Turned it off, plugged the cable in again, then restarted the engine. Turned the engine off again and the low battery signal didn’t come up again, and the cable was plugged in now. Fixed. Thanks.
Glad it helped! If any of my videos have been useful I always appreciate new subscribers!
@@JakeInGeorgiayour video is very helpful though I bet Ford won’t appreciate me telling them what the problem is
@@jamesalan1476 they rarely do
I’m so excited to try this on my 2019 mustang. My dream car goes into power saver mode after only a few hours now. Dealerships keep telling me the battery is fully charged and I tell them of course it is, it was jumped. Duh. I miss the days when cars were just cars and not a computer.
Soooo many computers and modules anymore
Same problem with my 2018 mustang…. F*cking technology!
Great video and straight to the point!! This worked on my 2013 Ford Taurus. Unhooked it, tested it and was fixed, then left unhooked overnight. Plugged it back in and still works! Thanks.
I did air quotes when you said "diagnostic test" @ 1:39. Made me laugh.
Thanks again!!
I did this fix for my 2013 Taurus SHO and it fixed the issue after it was unplugged, and it has remained working normally after plugging it back in. On my car model and year the censor is under the air intake hose below the battery's negative terminal along the cable...but too hard to get fingers on. The air intake hose removal is just loosening the 2 hose clamps (but not disconnecting them) and twisting them slightly clockwise to release them from a couple rubber stops. With that hose off it is just a 10 second disconnect as you described that worked great!
Jake: Not sure how you connected this fix to the problem...I never would have. Thanks for sharing your straight forward video!!!
Glad it helped you get yours squared away. As far as how I connected the dots, well, I guess when I saw the message stating something about the battery that’s where I decided to start looking. Then I saw the sensor and hadn’t seen one before so I did a little research and decided to try taking it off. lol
I have a 2014 Edge and just encountered this problem after a battery change. Advanced Auto tested the new battery and it was good. The worker said it was the key fob, so I replaced the battery but as we all know here he was wrong, but a necessary diagnostic step. I did as suggested and reattached 30 minutes later and the problem seems to be resolved. TY for the video. YT mechanics have saved me $$$ This car has 165k on it and is in great condition and I’m determined to get 250k out of it.
Glad it helped!!! Subscribe for more tips 😁
Had installed a new battery and immediately started getting the message. I did as you said and it worked perfectly. Later I plugged the purple connector back in and haven't had anymore problems or getting the annoying message. Thanks muchly
Glad to hear it worked!
www.wkbn.com/news/national-world/recalls/ford-says-some-vehicles-can-catch-fire-with-engines-off/?.com&fbclid=IwAR2f5m5epvLoK3Ol6YAi-NKVrX_gDyDv5bhkDjyFOLsPCzihlw9nO1ck8Nw&mibextid=Zxz2cZ
After plugging in it back in did you ever get anymore problems of the annoying message anymore since then? If so how often? Thanks.
Unplugged mine like you did and it worked. Then started it back up and ran the motor for five minutes, turned it off and plugged it back up and it had cleared the problem. 2011 ford f150 stx.
Glad it worked out for you!
Just unplugging the cable did not work for me but I ran the engine for 5 minutes with it unplugged, turned the car off, plugged it back in and the light went away. Thanks John
I lived with the save battery from yr 2 owning my truck. And this fixed it. Ford told me it was something that was built into the software thanks for this.
Yeah.... Ford is full of $hit. I avoid Ford dealers like the plague. I have a whole rant video about why. It’s long and just me talking but if you want a first hand account of multiple Ford experiences up and down the east coast it lays it out. I love my truck but will I buy another Ford anytime soon? Nope. From my own trials I have determined that right now the best truck in the same class is the RAM 1500. Glad it helped you out!
Yep. Mine started doing it a couple of days ago. I've had the truck for a little over a year.
@@DEISEL65DAVE did this fix it for you?
I really appreciate this fix. My 2013 Ford F-150 has had this problem for months. I bought a new battery from Costco and this didn’t help. The dealership was no help either. It’s so nice being able to listen to my radio again with the ignition switch turned off now. Besides, I also carry with me a battery jump unit just 8n case.Thank you for posting this!
Yeah I have a 2013. If you ever run into any issues send me a message. I’ve diagnosed and solved my fair share of them. Thanks for watching and please subscribe. Thanks again!
www.wkbn.com/news/national-world/recalls/ford-says-some-vehicles-can-catch-fire-with-engines-off/?.com&fbclid=IwAR2f5m5epvLoK3Ol6YAi-NKVrX_gDyDv5bhkDjyFOLsPCzihlw9nO1ck8Nw&mibextid=Zxz2cZ
Starts with 2011's, thanks for the fix!
Anytime!
I tried it and it worked. At my wife's suggestion I later reconnected and it still works. A 2011 F150 Lariat. So far so good. Thanks!
Might want to leave it reconnected. I know it’s a different year and different model but they obviously have some serious issues with this technology. Here’s the latest.
www.wkbn.com/news/national-world/recalls/ford-says-some-vehicles-can-catch-fire-with-engines-off/?.com&fbclid=IwAR2f5m5epvLoK3Ol6YAi-NKVrX_gDyDv5bhkDjyFOLsPCzihlw9nO1ck8Nw&mibextid=Zxz2cZ
@@JakeInGeorgia yeah I think I'll just skip considering buying me a 2017-2020 used Lincoln Continental & just take it off my "wish" consideration list. And that is a shame as it is a beautiful car.
Jake, just wanna say THANK YOU. You just saved me $500. I had this same error code on my 2012 Lincoln MKX. I followed your instructions and the code disappeared! Before i googled and found your video, my mechanic on the phone said diagnostic test will be $150, parts will be at least $150 and then labor $200. I guess he thought it will be easy to make quick cash off me since I am a female 😂
I wouldn’t go back to that mechanic lol. Glad this helped!
Also, how was that mechanic able to quote you on parts and labor prior to a diagnostic test being done? The point of the diagnostic test is to find the issue! If it were me, I’d call him up and ask him that question then tell him to get bent.
@@JakeInGeorgia I told the mechanic what the error message was. He said he had repaired vehicles with that issue before so he kinda knows what the 'problem ' was. But that he still needs to do the diagnostic test to know for sure. And if it is what he thinks it is, then the parts is $150, labor $200 and testing $150. It didn't sit right with me so I googled the error message and your video was one of many. Again, thanks alot!
After doing some research on this, leaving this disconnected is not a good idea. This is a part of the EBS, and this system actually works in conjunction with the electronic control module for the entire charging system.
The EBS controls the amount of voltage that your alternator produces to keep your battery charged. It is actually a complex system that not only reads the voltage of your battery, but also the temperature of it as well. So using these sensors input, the control module increases or decreases the amount of voltage being sent to your battery while the vehicle is in use.
This sensor is actually the battery voltage sensor. There are 2 to 3 of these sensors depending on which vehicle is owned. This BVS is actually a hall effects sensor, and runs between $10 and $20. PN is BT4Z14B357C (Negative side). There could possibly be a sensor on the positive side as well as a current/temperature sensor that is on the positive terminal.
I would recommend just replacing this sensor vs. unplugging it and leaving it unplugged.
UPDATE: My wife has a 2014 Fusion, and her car kept getting the same message. I replaced the Battery Voltage Sensor, and now the message no longer appears. Took me about 15 minutes to replace, very easy. Also, when I installed the new one, the factory install had the BVS installed over the plastic loom covering the negative battery cable. To ensure this sensor is getting an accurate reading from the battery voltage, I removed the plastic loom covering where this sensor sits. So I installed the new sensor right on the battery cable and taped it up nice and tight.
I do not understand why Ford has made these vehicles so incredibly dependent on electronics, and it can be a pain to pinpoint the issue. And it is doubly bad when you actually take your vehicle to the Dealership for this issue, and they tell you there is nothing wrong with the vehicle.
But, this fixed the message issue with my wife's Fusion. Hope this helps some of you and good luck.
More like $30 to $50 plus shipping
Ty
Plz i have same car ford fusion same problem could u send any pic for that sensor
@@ibrahimshibli2332 Just do a google search for this sensor. It is on the negative battery cable very close to where the cable terminal is located.
www.wkbn.com/news/national-world/recalls/ford-says-some-vehicles-can-catch-fire-with-engines-off/?.com&fbclid=IwAR2f5m5epvLoK3Ol6YAi-NKVrX_gDyDv5bhkDjyFOLsPCzihlw9nO1ck8Nw&mibextid=Zxz2cZ
That’s a current transformer that wrapped around the negative terminal and can measure current through the magnetic field strength running through the negative. In order to run power management systems you need both voltage and current measurements to calculate power for multiple devices. This disconnecting method may solve one problem but create many others that one may not discover right away.
Great video 👍. I did this but I also sprayed CRC contact cleaner in the plug and hooked back up. Annoying message gone! Thanks for your video.
Anytime! Glad it worked for you. I’m always open to learning how to improve as well.
have you had any problems since?
www.wkbn.com/news/national-world/recalls/ford-says-some-vehicles-can-catch-fire-with-engines-off/?.com&fbclid=IwAR2f5m5epvLoK3Ol6YAi-NKVrX_gDyDv5bhkDjyFOLsPCzihlw9nO1ck8Nw&mibextid=Zxz2cZ
@@JakeInGeorgia I wonder if this includes their 2019 Lincoln Continental also?
I sprayed contact cleaner in mine and plugged it back in.. my car stalled after doing so, had check charging system message and system off to save battery still appearing. Still I need to replace this sensor all together.
Signed in just to say this worked for me true hero appreciate you
Anytime! Glad it helped!
Thanks! Youre my hero! This was an annoying feature that just randomly started happening. I just went and fiddled around with it without completely disconnecting it and everything is working again
Glad it helped!
O M G!!! I just g ot an older (2011) F150 and it was having this issue... apparently the battery monitoring system was pre-2011.. but I digress... you sir deserve a reward for this. I took my truck into the shop and they said it was an ignition switch issue, and said they fixed it... but they didn't. YOU DID!!!!! OMG TYTYTYTYTYTYTYTY!
Glad it helped! UA-cam is a wonderful tool. Watching UA-cam videos has taught me many things about this truck and it has allowed me to fix things that professional mechanics couldn’t figure out. Whenever something goes wrong, my first stop is UA-cam.
Never add grounds to the battery side of the BMS. Those are now circuits that draw on the charging system that the BMS cannot see. Looking at the battery ground cable, those grounds must be between the frame ground and the BMS, not between the battery negative terminal and the BMS. In other words, move them to the other end of the battery negative cable so the BMS can then see the draw from those grounds as it flows between the battery negative terminal and the frame ground point. The BMS can then give the proper signal to the charging system to compensate for those extra draws, if not, the battery will eventually be completely discharged.
Thanks for this tip. Plugged it out & put it back in & it started working again. No more messages. 👍
Glad it helped!!!!
www.wkbn.com/news/national-world/recalls/ford-says-some-vehicles-can-catch-fire-with-engines-off/?.com&fbclid=IwAR2f5m5epvLoK3Ol6YAi-NKVrX_gDyDv5bhkDjyFOLsPCzihlw9nO1ck8Nw&mibextid=Zxz2cZ
I did this on my 2013 f-150, but reconnected the plug after. Solved the issue 👍
The issue being described in this video is due to the Body Control Module (BCM) having incorrect data about the battery State Of Charge (SOC). The device around the negative cable is a Battery Management System (BMS) sensor, a basic hall effect sensor. It relays information about the battery to the BCM. In this case, this is the early gen 1 version of BMS, so it only relays info about the battery amperage. Leaving the BMS connector unplugged can cause your Check Engine light to illuminate. All you need to do is reset the BMS. To reset the BMS: Turn the truck on, but don't start the engine. Wait until the battery warning light illuminates on the dash. Flash the high beams 5 times, then press and release the brake pedal 3 times. After about 10 seconds, the battery warning light will flash 3 times to indicate the BMS has been reset. This tells the BCM to relearn the battery SOC from the BMS sensor. You should reset the BMS whenever you see the System Off To Save Battery warning, or when you replace your battery so the BCM knows to relearn the battery SOC. The latest generation of the Ford BMS is a rectangular black box connected between the negative battery terminal and the negative battery cable. It's the same concept, but the information is more complete to include battery SOC, temperature & State Of Health (SOH). Resetting the BMS sensor on the latest generation is exactly the same procedure as the older BMS and works on all Ford models.
@@da4944 TLDR. Never had a CEL come on and owned this truck for a decade. This sounds like some ford technician BS. If you want to flip this switch 4 times, flash your high beams 6 times, do the Hokey Pokey and turn yourself around in an effort to fix the issue be my guest. Or you can just unplug this thing and have zero issues.
@@JakeInGeorgia It's a simple computer reset command. Purposely leaving anything unplugged in a modern vehicle is a bad idea...but, you go girl.
You sir deserve the hero of the year award 🥇
I’ll settle for the Nobel Prize 🤣
Thanks for the info, very straight forward and to the point, LOVE IT 👍🏻
My 2011 crew cab had the same annoying problem.I’ll go out now and try this fix, l plan on plugging it back in after a while as some comments have said this issue did not come back after doing so. Finally that piece around the negative cable measures the electricity flow in the cable by measuring the magnetic field that is created when current flows in a wire.
This worked on my 2011 F150, although it makes me uneasy to leave something disconnected since I figure it must have a purpose. So, I disconnected the plug, shot the insides with electronic cleaner, then let it dry a couple minutes before plugging it back in. Fixed. Thanks for the tip bud.
Whatever works! Glad you got it squared away. I’ve been unplugged for a couple years now with no adverse effects to report. If you don’t mind subscribing it would mean a lot!
Thanks you for the research and post. Solution on my 2023 Ford Edge worked great!!! Another annoyance out of my life! LOL!
2023 vehicles are already being sold? Man, they keep releasing cars earlier and earlier.
@@JakeInGeorgia think maybe it was a typo for 2013 lol.
@@samanthafajita1561 gotta be lol
lol I was gonna ask some things about the future to be a smartass... but that would inevitably become political and I can’t right now... fuck Joe Biden by the way. 😆
@@Houseofarrows Good one, Bob! No, it’s “Let’s go Brandon” LOL! They think we are all deaf AND stupid
THANK-YOU THANK-YOU THANK-YOU. I couldn’t understand what was happening. I was going to dealership tomorrow!!!!
No need for that! Were you able to find and unplug the connector? Curious, if you don’t mind sharing, what year and type of Ford do you have? I’m trying to piece together when they started this jackassery and what vehicles it was included on lol.
@@JakeInGeorgia mine's a 2015 Ford Escape. Will try your method later today. Took to dealer and they said the battery was fine, and well just to live with it. lol
@@GraveyardThought I’m willing to bet this will fix your problem. Keep me updated! I’ve come to learn that Ford dealership techs are both dumb and lazy. You shouldn’t have to “live with it” when you’ve spent tens of thousands of dollars on buying a vehicle from them.
Mine did it on start up..2014 f150xlt did your remedy and it fixed it THANK YOU VERY MUCH
Glad it helped! Mines been going strong for years now
Thank you! Fixed the issue on my 2014 F150. Subscribed
Thanks alot for this info! Problem solved!
My 2013 f150 started giving me this message when i added a subwoofer and amplifier to it.
I tried this and it worked for me. I thought about a while and decided to replace the sensor. Is called a battery temperature sensor. I found it online for $15.00. It is working normal now. The part # is BT4Z 14B357 C.
Good to know!
Whats the one on the positive side called if you by chance know?
@@shawn6684 I believe it is also a battery temp sensor.
@@shawn6684 not sure. I haven’t come across that.
I have a 2014 Ford fusion, and I’m having the same issue. I’ve replaced the alternator and the battery and it shut down on me while driving to the doctors office this morning and I literally just got everything fixed yesterday. So I tried this and I let it run for a minute and then it made this weird like clicking grinding sound and everything shut off again me and my fiancé are at a complete loss of what to do to fix this can anyone help! Please!
Thanks im in London UK and have had this problem loads of times thanks for the info i put new battery in a year and a half ago still did it but this will be getting the treatment tomorrow Cheers
Glad it helps!!!
Thanks for helping me get rid of this headache.
Oh, it’s a modern Ford, you’ll have another headache in no time.
Thanks for the help! Do you think a tapped fuse I am using to power +12V to my backup camera might be the reason this is coming up?
I doubt it
Bad ass dude.
Thanks.
This management system sucks.
Micromanagement. B.S.
Couldn't even reset.
Couldn't even play music on a brand new top of the line battery.
Yeah I’m done with fords but plan on running this truck for a lonnngggg time. Glad it helped you.
Thank you so much my truck is 2023 and this is driving me nuts 😅
@@vincentpagan5070 ford still doing it 10 years later, huh? So glad I drive a RAM now.
Such a headache but it worked I just rehooked the line in and no problems
Glad it worked!
I have a 2013 Ford Fusion SE ( Made in Mexico for US market) I tried repeatedly to reset the BMS on my car using the high beam switch/ brake pedal/battery lamp method and it DID NOT WORK, perhaps if my instrument cluster had a Battery Warning Lamp to see flash the three times to indicate that method was successful, it may have worked. But, no battery lamp to see. Anyway, I disconnected the BMS sensor, which I had already replaced a few months ago, and so far I can listen to my radio with no problem, unlike before when this stupid system would shut the radio off after only two minutes. That was after driving ten miles at 60 MPH and the battery being charged at 14.96 volts. If I scanned the car, I may see a DTC for that sensor being disconnected, but the Check Engine Lamp is not coming on, so I am happy with this fix to a stupid problem. By the way, I never had this problem until I replaced my five year old, original battery.
same here, bought a new battery and this started, but only when its really cold. have to try this out to see if it is the fix.
My guess is that the BMS still thinks it's running on the old battery?
I have tried every tried in the book to get the "system off to save battery " ever since I replaced my battery in my 2016 f150 xlt 5.0 litre. It starts ok but even after a highway drive when I shut off the vehicle the system shuts off immediately. Very annoying 😒. I've watched every UA-cam video on the subject and nothing works.
My problem was finally fixed when my mechanic said that even though my battery was supposed to "fit" my truck when I bought it- it was a little small. My 2 year old battery was 9.5 inches long with 660 CCA and when he put one that was 11 inches long and has 700 CCA my issue was GONE! Now I can listen to the radio without starting the engine. 😀 also make sure that your mechanic puts a scanning tool on to tell the computer in your truck that a new battery is Installed. Very important. 😉
I had to do a search on here for that exact same issue for my 2019 Edge because my ford pass phone app would not let me do a remote start because of the battery saver message. I havent tried this yet but seems to be a very simple solution and I will be checking it out and seeing if it works on my model year!
Keep me posted! Thanks for watching.
Omg this is great! My Edge does this nonstop for years n it drives me insane n I’m afraid the battery is going to be dead everytime I go out to start it!
Have a 2012 Edge. That input was on the positive side for me, but still had the purple color inside when you disconnect it. Once i disconnected the battery saver message went away
So I have a Ford EcoSport 2020.... It has been sitting for about 3 months.... just started doing this...... So you think it may just be the battery???
worked on the 2011 F150 - actually reseated the plug, will spray with CRC later- Thank you
No problem! Glad it worked out.
Thanks for the info.
I was about to get a new battery.
Now, any ideas on how to fix the stupid SYNC.
What’s the issue with your sync? I have had issues with mine in the past and have found I was able to “fix” it via 2 methods. The first method I tried was removing and reinserting the mini fuse in the passenger side kick panel for sync. If that does not work, I have found that doing a factory reset of the system usually corrects any gremlins.
My explorer is doing this with the power saving thing and also my sync will randomly make my touch screen go all black and there will be a message saying performing scheduled system maintenance check or something like that. Not sure what's going on.
3:47 Have a 2013 F150, put a new battery in and it started. Moved the truck and it sat for about a month and would not start. Finally after turning the key about a dozen times in park and neutral it started. Moved it again and now it has power but no start, replaced the ignition switch and still no start, now it flashes battery low. Battery is only three months old at this point. I will charge the battery and disconnect this sensor and see if that is the problem.
AWESOM VIDEO SO HELPFUL thank you. You have me now possibly reconsidering maybe purchasing a Lincoln Continental. That's if The Continental has this same connection easy enough to pull off & disconnect. Nah, all newer Fords seem to have this stupid Battery Saver mode. And I did find out 100% that all the 2017-2020 Lincoln Continentals & MKZ come with this Battery Saver feature sadly. So I'll pass on the problems that comes with it.
This Battery Saver feature is the dumbest thing Lincoln Ford could have ever put in their vehicles. Why, WHY would they do this? Older people (which the Continental they sell to mostly) do not drive their cars everyday. Sometimes they might only want to use their car 2-3 times a week. Or maybe even once a week even. This VERY STUPID "Battery Saver" features makes it so they have to drive their car DAILY or they will need a jump start to start their car.
Cars have been around forever and no cars use to need or require this kind of pure $HIT feature. I can figure out my battery issues on my own I don't need the car or Ford telling me and automatically shutting off my vehicle forcing me to jump start it just because I didn't need to drive the damn car for 3 days. THIS FEATURE IS PLAIN STUPID and annoying. Why would I bother buying a Lincoln or Ford that has this feature function? Especially elderly people that don't drive their cars more than once a week.
Anyways, great helpful video. I WAS going look into it if this will work on the Lincoln Continentals but I'll pass and just get me a newer Toyota Avalon instead. Ford just lost another possible customer because of this stupid "System Off To Save Battery" feature.
You just gained a new sub.
It's a type of amperage draw sensor and I think its values are skewed so disconnecting should disable its function
2013 Ford Explorer. Didn’t work for me. Still get the saving battery message.
Doing this is like putting a piece of tape over your check engine light. It doesn't make the problem go away, it just gets rid of the light. That feature was put there for a reason. It simply monitors the charge in the battery, and if a low power condition is detected, you get a warning along with a broken circuit so you don't have to get your car jump started. Maybe you left your headlights on. Or maybe your alternator has an internal fault causing the battery to drain. Why wouldn't you want to know this?
After he just got done saying you shouldn’t ignore a problem 😂
@@johnpetrucci2590 Lets try and think this one through, because its complicated. This feature is a warning system designed to alert you to a potential problem. He's telling you to not ignore a problem. He's also telling you to disable the feature that tells you there is a problem.
My question to you is this. If we shouldn't ignore a problem, why would you disable the warning system? I know its a tough question, but sometimes in life we have to deal with the really hard stuff.
I have an 07 explorer i bought for my wife. She told me she saw the message. I verified and checked the battery physically after seeing the message for myself and it had indeed started to collect some corrosion. Something my 03 grand marquis doesn't do. Thanks Ford for the upgrade.
My 2012 explorer is doing this and it's also not wanting to start. I'm wondering if it could be the battery or alternator?
@@nicolesmith2143 i changed the battery and it stopped.
Hey man, that "round thing" you talked about on the negative battery cable is an induction ammeter. It tells the computer how much current is being used at idle, when the AC is turned on, they the engine is off idle and a whole host of other things. Plug it back in. There is a very simple procedure in your owners manual on how to re-set the Battery Maintenance System. I think you may have led some people astray. This ain't your grandpa's car.
My thoughts exactly
Thanks! I never liked just unplugging shit to fix it. Checking owners manual now 😁👍
I checked my owner's manual and I got nothing!
Owner's manual is basically useless anyways. Most buyers are not mechanics. FORD SUCKS!
Bit of advice when adding accessories to vehicles that *_have_* BMS
DO NOT DIRECTLY CONNECT TO THE BATTERY TERMINAL! ( 2:15 )
Instead find a good point on the chassis/body for the grounding point.
When you connect directly to the battery the BMS doesn't recognize the additional load so the computer starts flag the battery as weak/dead because the voltage on the battery is not reaching the expected value with the amount of recharge applied from the alternator. When you connect to the ground to chassis the BMS will take the accessory's power draw into account.
+ Also, when replacing or recharging the battery the BMS needs to be set into learn mode... you can do this with some of the ODB tools or you may be able to follow (worked for mine without the scan tool by following these instructions):
ua-cam.com/video/BiBBDnTUcIY/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/I_KmO-KaR4A/v-deo.html
Same battery, same alternator, same fix for 7 years running.
Exactly!
2014 F150, I get this message usually after a long distace drive on a hot day. Ford dealer replaced tha battery, but the message came back.
I did nothing because on colder days it's not happening and the battery has more than12.5 volts, e.g.fully charged.
But thanks for your video.
I got the same warning message today. Car wouldn’t turn on at the gas station. I had to get a jump. I’m going to try this on our 2018 Ford expedition max
I'll try this tomorrow. It just started happening. However it's been -25 and colder the last several days. Thought maybe it had something to do with it
It very well could be. To be safe, I would test the battery first. Either do it yourself or go to a local auto parts store and have them test it for free. Of the battery checks out then remove the wire and it should fix it!
My Echosport just started doing this. I also was wondering if the cold has anything to do with this.
That circle next to the battery that got unplugged looks like an amp clamp. Is it? Hard to say.
Not sure. I think whatever it is is supposed to measure current somehow. All I know for sure is it’s pointless lol.
Hey man, thanks a bunch!! got a 2012 platinum in June and i'm discovering a lot of "lil" issues with it and this is one of them or should i say was one of them. Thankx!
You’re welcome. Unfortunately you got one of the 2009-2014 years that has a lot of “little issues” and if you’re lucky will dodge some of the “big issues”. I’ve had them all. Including a cylinder head issue that shut the truck down for 3 months. Not fun. I have plenty of videos to help guide you. None on the cylinder head because all my energy went into fixing that rather than documenting it but I have good information if you ever need it. Hopefully not.
Hello, I’m having a similar issue. I see the location of the item with the purple inside but how do you remove it? You mentioned about a tab underneath, making sure so I don’t mess it up. Thank you
It’s just a little tab/clip. Push in on it and pull them apart. It’s the same style clip they use on almost all other electrical wires. If you find this helpful please subscribe. I’m one subscriber away from a custom URL! Thanks!
@@JakeInGeorgia thank you
That circle thing @2:20 does not exist in the Ford Everest Titanium 2016. How do I find the tab?
This is an old vid but that circle thing around the negative battery cable is the old style battery monitoring system which monitors the state of the battery. If the system detects a low battery state it starts to shut off features to save the battery and you get that message. When you either charge or replace the battery you have to reset the BMS because it does not recognize a new battery or a recharge from a charger.
Naturally mine doesn’t disconnect easily. Like everything else these days it’s difficult to get to. I’ve got a ‘16 Ford Explorer
Does this work on a Lincoln MKC Suv? I get the same message.
I honestly am not sure of that however it should be easy to figure out. There is a strong possibility it will since Ford/Lincoln are one and the same these days. I would look at the negative side of your battery terminal and see if you can locate this same wire. If a wire is there, remove it. If it works, problem solved. If not, no harm no foul. Wont cost you anything but 5 minutes of your time!
I was having the same problem on a 2016 ford Ford Fusion SE. I was getting the System Off To Save Battery message. After trying many different things I tried this and all the others. Never thought to see if the battery was drained!!
Were you able to fix it?
@@tyranp9206 I'm sorry but I don't remember. I believe it was a dead battery. My purpose was doing breaks and to depress drivers rear caliper piston it had to be turned in and then the system had to be put in "emergency brake maintenance" mode which I found instructions for on YT. There is a device that goes around one of the battery cables the I believe is part of the anti-theft system. I saw a video that said to unplug it. I did but it did not help immediately because the battery ended up being drained. When I jumped it, it started. I reconnected the cable and there has been no issues since from what I have heard. All this I found on YT. Good luck.
Thank You !! This has been so annoying.
You’re welcome!
That was fantastic, Great Job, Saving money. THANK YOU ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Got my ranger back from the garage after a repair of some warning lights and this started coming up. Sometimes I just want to listen to music when the engines off. So annoying!
Might give it a try on mine and see what happens
Let me know!
In my Ford edge 2014 doesn’t work… i do like video say but the problem still
Had this warning on my 2019 Ford Fusion Hybrid. Called AAA and they tested the battery and the battery was low. I charged the battery for the prescribed time of 2 hours at 10 AMPs. Seems to work, no more message on the screen.
@jakeingeorgia - hello my 2016 Ford Fusion is doing the same thing with the battery saver message and then the electrical shuts down on the dash and the radio and then the car loses power and dies. Do you know what this could be?
If the entire car is losing power to the point it will not run I unfortunately do not have the solution to your problem. Have you tested the battery and/or alternator?
In other words that sensor is not working properly and needs to be replace. Thank you for your video. My Ford is 2010 and I got that message
It's not the sensor it's a lack of driving or, drain the sensor is detecting, or mostly the fact that Ford had to put this stupid System Off To Save Battery feature in their autos because they probably didn't TRUST their own alternators to handle all the new added electronics. Dumbest feature Ford could have even put in their vehicles.
I wonder if this works on 2020 on ranger. It says same thing and it won’t remote start the truck my phone sometimes
That was Fords quick fix for a problem they couldn't fix and made the system shut off rather than fix a trickle current that might have been killing batteries!
I want to know if this is also applicable to Ford edge 2013?
Literally just bought a 2020 Ford Edge deep sleep mode 😩 what is that, wel I’m try what you said I’ll let you know if it helps me
I have no idea what that is but “deep sleep mode” to me sounds like just another Ford technical problem caused by a company trying to reinvent the wheel. My advice to anyone buying a vehicle is this: buy the most basic model you possibly can. You don’t want factory technical stuff that’s cheap and cost a fortune. You can add in better quality electronics for a better price after the vehicle is yours if you wish to do so.
My 2020 Ford ecosport went into deep sleep mode and I have no clue how to get it out nor does customer service. What worked for you?
@@GorgeousRenee i don’t know why it happened but I took it back to ford and they fixed it right away I didn’t even bother to ask what it was
@@jonathantamez2277 I’m headed to Ford now I’ll ask and I’ll update you
@@GorgeousRenee don't tell me, a year later since your convo here, and neither of you both bothered to ask. LOL
I was wondering what was going on with it just had my battery tested at Ford dealer when they did my oil change couple of weeks ago. But that fix my problem on my 15 Explorer. Thx
Glad it helped! If you don’t mind subscribing that would be awesome! Thanks!
@@JakeInGeorgia I just did
Any idea where I can find this in a Ford Fusion?
Can I do this with a 2014 ford fusion ?
Will this work on a ford escape 2014?
Not sure. It takes a mere couple seconds. You can always try and see.
Here I thought the remote start was causing the issue had it in three times they said nothing was wrong with it just unplug that and it started right up with the remote
Sorry sound decisions lol maybe it wasn't your fault
Glad you got this worked out! If you like tips like this one please subscribe! Thank you.
Have to try this having the same problem on my F-150 2015thank you!
You’re welcome!
Thank you I hope my16 Edge works the same way.
Did it work? I'm having the same problem with my edge. Replaced batter a few months ago
@@hrnovak4690 dealing with something like this on my 13. going to try it tonight!
My battery light came to save battery, found my battery bad. Fixed problem, new battery. After running for awhile, battery saver light gone and radio playing with ignition off.👍
I have a 2016 for flex, found the connector....can't seem to get it to release!
Sometimes those connectors can be tricky. Especially when the plastic gets worn by heat in the engine bay and debris. Be patient with it. Try loosening it up by spraying Fluid Film on it.
@@JakeInGeorgia will do, thanks
@@davekarr6887 anytime. I learned my lesson to be patient when I broke a tab off the plastic connector for the ignition coil. Nothing bad but still. A little patience goes a long way. You’ll get it!
Awesome thanks have been dealing with this for a few years and nobody knew how to solve it!! Thank you 😊
In my experience Ford dealerships never know how to fix anything but always seem to be able to make the problem worse
@@JakeInGeorgia I totally agree 👍🏻
I can't find that circle thing near the battery. My Ford model is Everest 2016.
God bless you 🎉🎉
Hope it helped! Thanks!
No, you don’t know your battery is charged regardless how new it is. If you take successive short trips of 10 minutes or less, your truck will not have adequate time to charge the battery. This will drag your battery’s charge down to a level that will cause the battery preserve mode. A battery tester will show this.
Unfortunately I have a 2016 Ford fusion and the way the batteries position is up under the dashboard so I can't reach that.
I just went and unplugged mine. Gonna find out when i get to work if it works. I tried resetting BMS system but that didn't work. This is such an annoying problem. If this works, i will plug it back in like others have commented to see if it stays off. Thank you for this video.
Still working on mine! Hope it helps.
Worked perfectly
Awesome!
There's a booming sound coming out of the compartment. Tried the high beam toggle technique, but my break pedal just went hard.
What? Lol
I'll have to try this with my 2013. Been having issues where it won't even start.
Garage finally found my issue after eliminating battery, aftermarket add-ons, alternator, etc. It is the Front Control Interface Monitor. I've been told it's cost me around $1100, guessing most of that is labor. There were other things that were happening that now make sense due to this. I just blew them off as fluke incidents but obviously they were not.
🤔 Update: Garage just called and said there is still an issue after installing new monitor. They need to keep it over the weekend.
Resolved! It was corroded buttons in the keypad for the keyless entry on driver's door causing the issue. It was drawing 2.5A on battery when truck turned off. When it sat for 2 days that drained the battery. It would "wake up" almost every 30 minutes by itself. They replaced buttons and no more draw.
The owner installed wiring shown at 2:11 may cause problems.
2013 MKX Owners Guide
To ensure proper operation of the battery management system (BMS),
any electrical devices that are added to the vehicle should not have their
ground connection made directly at the negative battery post. A connection
at the negative battery post can cause inaccurate measurements of the
battery condition and potential incorrect system operation.
This device is a magnetic based current sensor. Presumably used to detect excessive current draw during engine off.
The "System Off To Save Battery" Message seems to imply that the system thinks that the battery is critically discharged.
Does this work on a Ford Mustang with the same error message? The car won't even start with this message. The battery is just a year old!
Give it a shot and let me know!
Thanks very much for awesome fix! I have a 2013 F150 with the 8” My Ford Touch screen. Mine was shutting down while I was driving, and setting my heater to run full blast with no way to turn off! 😰😱
Unplugged the sensor per your instructions and all is working again!
Glad to hear it! Glad it helped!
Mines is shutting off as well, when driving
@@ashleymiddleton147 that’s a new one. I haven’t heard of this. Does the car shut down? If so, that’s something different from the battery.
@@JakeInGeorgia yes it makes a noise and within mins it cuts off, I leave it off a couple mins and it will start again
@@ashleymiddleton147 unfortunately I have no idea what that could be. There’s many possibilities. Once the car is started, the battery would not be responsible for the car to die. This might seem like a silly question but does your car have the economy feature where it cuts off while stopped and then turns back on when you hit the gas? If so, maybe try putting it in sport mode to see if it continues to happen.
Thank you sir 👍👍
Thanks for watching. If you don’t mind subscribing I will appreciate it!
Cool info 👍🏽
I believe my explorer seized and this message was displaying while the vehicle was coming to a halt
Our 2011 explorer has this issue and warning system
Thanks for letting me know