After 10 years of daily driving a 97 sto (its got a torsen now) this may be worth it just to avoid replacing a rear caliper every year for the next 10 years!
Does it makes sense for me to put the Little Big Brake Kit on my fronts and leave the rears as stock ? That way I keep the strong parking brake. ( I often park on steeper hills and worry about the shifter popping out of gear).
Slotted rotors don’t really help with cooling, so ducts will be a big step up there. Ducting will help any brake system deal with heat better, but it won’t give you more brake torque.
Perfect timing! I was just thinking about looking into brakes! 👍 I’ll be upgrading brakes on my ‘92 Miata black with oem BBS wheels curious what can fit
About every 6 months I check to see if what brakes set up I want is in stock. 2 years later no luck. Alllllways out. Need more red and more of the cheaper rear wilwood w the built in parking brakes also in read
Sorry you’re having trouble. The best way to find out when something is in stock is to sign up for notifications. The red rear Powerlites are a custom piece for FM, so they take longer to produce unfortunately.
Running a 2023 ND Club with stock brakes. Looking for the best set up for spirited and numerous downhill runs. I’m not a brake rider, but after a few 6-9 mile downhill runs, I’m starting to feel solid fade from the socal inland heat and general use. I just need something to give me a few more runs and less fade on then the stock set up.
If your fade is stinky pads that don't seem to stop the car properly, you need better pads. Those could be on the stock calipers, or you could use something like our Little Big Brake Kit to give you a firmer brake pedal and better heat management along with greater pad choice. If your fade is the pedal getting soft, you need to change your brake fluid.
I bought a wilwood proportioning valve. I installed it and i wasnt noticing a difference in braking. It actually locked up the fronts alot more then the rears. I bought it from supermiata
If installed correctly, it will decrease rear braking power. You need to have enough rear brake to lock the rears first with the valve wide open, then you can start adjusting with the valve. If you don't have enough rear brake, adding a valve will be of limited use.
I bought a full front and rear bbk for my street car for a steal. Issue is, the rear doesn't come with the hand brake option. Would I be ok without a handbrake on my street car? Or will I be ok to just put the fronts on and leave the rears OEM?
balance will be off slightly, unless you can put a more aggressive pad on the back. larger rotors mostly handle heat better and can take/manage harder, more frequent stops better than smaller ones (even using the same pad material)...sure there is a leverage advantage, but there is also a weight penalty.
Will the big brakes fit inside the factory 14" wheels using spacers? I like the look of them and would like to chrome a set for my car. Best Always, Chris Zinn
Our 10" brake kits should fit under stock wheels - you may need spacers if you have the stock 'Daisy' wheels. For all brake kit purchases, we highly recommend printing out the template provided in the product description to check fitment before you purchase.
The FM website shows that red is still available for the rear with parking brake. Can you provide the Wilwood part number for the front calipers (possibly 120-8729-RD )? thank you
I know this questions is going to sound dumb, but I have gotten different answers everytime I ask... am I supposed to use regular fuel on a completely stock 1999 NB? I don't have access to a owners manual to corroborate and facebook gc are not that helpful lmao. Thanks in advance!
After several New Hampshire winters the rear calipers on my '16 Sport rusted and started binding. I got the complete Little-Big kit, did the rears first. They are MUCH lighter than stock, wasn't too hard to install, even for an old man working in his driveway. Did the fronts a few months later, an easier job. The calipers have held up well to NH winters, I've hosed them down periodically. They don't produce a lot of dust, quite minimal. As mentioned the parking brake isn't all that powerful, not a big deal for me. No clearance issues with stock 16" wheels nor with the aftermarket wheels the snow tires are mounted on.
Thanks for reaching out! If the car is only occasioning driven, I've had some surface rust build up on my personal rotors but once I drive the car long enough, the pad sweep area is clear again. Fill free to reach out via email to add more details. Support@flyinmiata.com
@@FlyinMiataVideo It was the calipers that rusted and bound up, not the disks. I've got a Jaguar F-Type that is not driven in winter, to control rust on its rotors I position a box fan to blow across the car, it works. NH winters have lots of temperature changes along with humidity, things rust in my open garage. The Wilwood calipers have been great through the winters, I strongly recommend them.
@@FlyinMiataVideo They came with the car when I bought it so hard to compare against stock with my limited experience. I'll look into the options. Thanks!
I just put in the little big brake kit in my NB2 (no ABS, no sport brakes), great pedal feel! Few quick questions, I've already got your front brake cooling ducts piped into the front dust shields. I do a few time trial events and autocross in the car at high plains raceway / la junta / PMP here in CO. No issues at all braking at HPR, but I did notice the rears were getting quite a bit hotter that the fronts, enough that it caused the cheap plastic centers on my race wheels (running A7 slicks) to soften up enough to fall out; but only on the rears. I just picked up your brake portioning valve, and wanted to know: should I run biased more braking to the front of the car? Should I run some cooling ducts into the rear as well? both?
Glad to hear you're enjoying them! It's awfully difficult to duct to the rear brakes on normal cars. The front brakes always do more work - your brake proportioning should be set so the rears do as much work as they can, but not lock before the fronts. With A7s, you'll be running a lot of front brake because you'll get a lot of weight transfer due to your high traction levels. Plastic center caps are always at risk on track cars. It's possible the rears are not getting the same airflow on the face of the wheels. The rears also don't have as much heat capacity in the rotors.
I have the BBR package on my '20 club. When I bought the car I changed all fluids including flushing the brakes. Pads looked fine, so I left them alone, (I assume they're stock). The pedal feel even after the flush isn't what I'd like. They're not really soft or spongy, but they don't feel hard and sporty either; they feel like passenger car brakes that are geared towards regular traffic in the city rather than sports car brakes that are direct and firm. Will upgrading to steel brake lines help this? Is this typical for the brembos? The calipers are about the same size as your biggest wilwood brake kit, so I would assume they'd have markedly better stiffness and heat capacity than stock or the little big brake kit.
We're not sure if by "BBR" package you mean the stock front Brembo brakes, or something else. However, upgrading to steel brake lines can help improve brake pedal feel. Upgrading to a slightly more aggressive brake pad can also help, if the stainless lines aren't enough. The stock Brembos are probably similarly stiff compared to any of our Wilwood caliper upgrades, but our Wilwood upgrades do typically save weight compared to the stock Brembos. Heat capacity would likely be similiar.
Great Video! I have a 90' miata... so the smaller rotors on the car. Could I get the LBB kit for the fronts, and then keep the rear breaks stock? Or for the rears should I upgrade to 10-inch -1.8 rotors and then in turn upgrade to 1.8 calipers?
We'd generally match the rotor diameter on the NA/NB cars, for aesthetic and performance reasons. That said, you probably wouldn't notice much of a difference in most scenarios. If you want to get nerdy about this, feel free to shoot us an email at support@flyinmiata.com or give us a call at 970-464-5600.
Awesome video! I have always wondered which would the best brake kit for a Autox Boosted Nc. At the moment, I have ah nc club edition in stock form, but I’m planning to upgrade it! I know that you recommended it the first kit for autox but are those brake enough for a 300hpish car, 2400 pounds car in autox? The only thing that I don’t want is to put a brake kit that would under perform ( not stopping) or over-perform ( locking wheels)
Autocross doesn't put a sustained heat load into the brakes since the runs are so short and the speeds are relatively low (heat goes up with the square of speed). So you don't need a massive rotor or pad. In your case, our NC Little Big Brake Kit would work well. All brake systems should be capable of locking wheels, but a good pad choice will make it easy to control at the threshold.
Hi, you mention the famous daisy wheels on NA can't accommodate the Wilwood calipers. But would some spacers help for this purpose ? And if yes, what minimum size ?
Yes, spacers will likely help. The dimensions of the spacers will depend on just what Wilwood calipers you're talking about and the offset/diameter of the rotor. We suggest using the brake templates available on our site to confirm for the kit you're looking at.
That’s a factor in brake design and pad selection. The brake torque (amount of braking for a given amount of pedal force) usually goes up, but not dramatically. It’s all about the correct selection of piston sizes and pads that have good attack and release characteristics. So, no. The biggest difference in designing for non-ABS cars is that proportioning is even more important.
Do you know if there is a big difference of brake efficiency between 255mm and 270mm with little big break ? I have stock rotor 255 with RC6 and I didn't have any heat trouble.
The larger rotor will have more heat capacity and deliver more brake torque than the smaller one. If you're not having heat problems with the 255 now, it's unlikely you'll have problems if you add the Little Big Brake caliper.
I have a nd 1.5, I want a budget brake upgrade. Can I put 2.0 brakes on my 1.5 or do I need too change the master cylinder aswell, is all I need the calipers and carrier and rotors?
Unfortunately, we don't have any information on the ND 1.5, as it's not sold in North America. It's unlikely it would require a new master cylinder, but a Mazda dealer could check to see if the part numbers are the same.
You'll likely need a spacer - we strongly recommend using the templates we provide in each brake kit product description to check clearance before you buy.
Is there no way to run a stiffer caliper than stock on the rear of the NC, but with the stock rotor size? I ask because there is a two-piece rear rotor out there in the stock size, and I'm looking to maximize my weight drop and for the best pedal feel.
The piston sizes in the NA8 Little Big Brake front calipers are a close match to the stock NA8 calipers, so there's no need to change the rear calipers to the larger Sport ones unless you're looking for more rear bias. The amount of brake torque increase will depend in large part on the pad selection - since the hydraulic sizing is the same and the rotor diameter is unchanged, the only increase in brake torque will come from a slight improvement in efficiency due to the fixed caliper and whatever pad choice you make.
@@teoflores4088 If there's an ETA available, we'll post it to the site. You can also sign up to be notified when they restock by clicking the "Notify When Available" underneath the product description.
We also carry pad + line kits that use higher-quality components if you're on a budget. flyinmiata.com/products/pad-line-bleeder-hose-combo-for-nd-with-brembo-package
I did a brake delete awhile back never looked back
Brake delete! Are you Jesse from Fast and Furious?
looking forward is a good thing...in fact it's probably best....
Why stop there?
Also my first modification! Haven’t stopped since
@@manlyotool1165 once you start with a brake delete you will never stop.
After 10 years of daily driving a 97 sto (its got a torsen now) this may be worth it just to avoid replacing a rear caliper every year for the next 10 years!
Does it makes sense for me to put the Little Big Brake Kit on my fronts and leave the rears as stock ? That way I keep the strong parking brake. ( I often park on steeper hills and worry about the shifter popping out of gear).
Certainly! We find this combo to be great for street cars, as you'll have plenty of stopping power and a nice strong parking brake.
How comparable is additional brake cooling to an actual brake set up? An example being ducts compared to slotted rotors.
Slotted rotors don’t really help with cooling, so ducts will be a big step up there. Ducting will help any brake system deal with heat better, but it won’t give you more brake torque.
Perfect timing! I was just thinking about looking into brakes! 👍 I’ll be upgrading brakes on my ‘92 Miata black with oem BBS wheels curious what can fit
Very nice! Don't hesitate to contact us with any questions before you purchase. :)
love the content , you guys helped me with choices on parts for my build for a daily driver
Thanks for watching and glad we could help out.
About every 6 months I check to see if what brakes set up I want is in stock. 2 years later no luck. Alllllways out. Need more red and more of the cheaper rear wilwood w the built in parking brakes also in read
Sorry you’re having trouble. The best way to find out when something is in stock is to sign up for notifications.
The red rear Powerlites are a custom piece for FM, so they take longer to produce unfortunately.
Running a 2023 ND Club with stock brakes. Looking for the best set up for spirited and numerous downhill runs. I’m not a brake rider, but after a few 6-9 mile downhill runs, I’m starting to feel solid fade from the socal inland heat and general use. I just need something to give me a few more runs and less fade on then the stock set up.
If your fade is stinky pads that don't seem to stop the car properly, you need better pads. Those could be on the stock calipers, or you could use something like our Little Big Brake Kit to give you a firmer brake pedal and better heat management along with greater pad choice.
If your fade is the pedal getting soft, you need to change your brake fluid.
does the NA miata rear need only 1 dual with the spot caliper for the handbrake, & the other side a single caliper?
It is symmetrical.
I have a '21 club ND with the Brembo option. How does the Big Mamma Jamma Willwood kit compare? Is there a way to quantify differences on paper?
The BMJ has larger rotors, more heat capacity, more pad material and more pad compound options.
I need flyin' saucers w/anti-gravity binders, but large dinner plates and multi-pot calipers that fit under a 17" wheel will also work....
I bought a wilwood proportioning valve. I installed it and i wasnt noticing a difference in braking. It actually locked up the fronts alot more then the rears. I bought it from supermiata
If installed correctly, it will decrease rear braking power. You need to have enough rear brake to lock the rears first with the valve wide open, then you can start adjusting with the valve. If you don't have enough rear brake, adding a valve will be of limited use.
I bought a full front and rear bbk for my street car for a steal. Issue is, the rear doesn't come with the hand brake option. Would I be ok without a handbrake on my street car? Or will I be ok to just put the fronts on and leave the rears OEM?
balance will be off slightly, unless you can put a more aggressive pad on the back. larger rotors mostly handle heat better and can take/manage harder, more frequent stops better than smaller ones (even using the same pad material)...sure there is a leverage advantage, but there is also a weight penalty.
Will the big brakes fit inside the factory 14" wheels using spacers? I like the look of them and would like to chrome a set for my car. Best Always, Chris Zinn
Our 10" brake kits should fit under stock wheels - you may need spacers if you have the stock 'Daisy' wheels. For all brake kit purchases, we highly recommend printing out the template provided in the product description to check fitment before you purchase.
@@FlyinMiataVideo As long as you say they will fit within 14 inches, that sounds good. Thank You!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@@ChrisZinn-o6t You are welcome, but we ALWAYS recommend using our fitment templates before ordering, just in case!
Will the NA/NB Stage 2 LBB Kit be available red calipers again?
Unfortunately, we'll only be offering the Stage 2 kit in Grey for the for the foreseeable future - sorry!
The FM website shows that red is still available for the rear with parking brake. Can you provide the Wilwood part number for the front calipers (possibly 120-8729-RD )? thank you
I know this questions is going to sound dumb, but I have gotten different answers everytime I ask... am I supposed to use regular fuel on a completely stock 1999 NB? I don't have access to a owners manual to corroborate and facebook gc are not that helpful lmao. Thanks in advance!
If your 1999 Miata is not turbocharged, you can use any regular gasoline. 85, 87, 89, or 91 octane will all be fine in your Miata.
@@FlyinMiataVideo Thank you!!!! I just got my clutch kit from you guys, hopefully it all goes well
After several New Hampshire winters the rear calipers on my '16 Sport rusted and started binding. I got the complete Little-Big kit, did the rears first. They are MUCH lighter than stock, wasn't too hard to install, even for an old man working in his driveway. Did the fronts a few months later, an easier job. The calipers have held up well to NH winters, I've hosed them down periodically. They don't produce a lot of dust, quite minimal. As mentioned the parking brake isn't all that powerful, not a big deal for me. No clearance issues with stock 16" wheels nor with the aftermarket wheels the snow tires are mounted on.
Thanks for reaching out! If the car is only occasioning driven, I've had some surface rust build up on my personal rotors but once I drive the car long enough, the pad sweep area is clear again. Fill free to reach out via email to add more details. Support@flyinmiata.com
@@FlyinMiataVideo It was the calipers that rusted and bound up, not the disks. I've got a Jaguar F-Type that is not driven in winter, to control rust on its rotors I position a box fan to blow across the car, it works. NH winters have lots of temperature changes along with humidity, things rust in my open garage. The Wilwood calipers have been great through the winters, I strongly recommend them.
I got the big momma jamma I think is how you reffered to it. Would you suggest a rear caliper upgrade to address brake balance?
NC btw
It would probably be a good idea, that's a lot of front brake torque.
@@FlyinMiataVideo They came with the car when I bought it so hard to compare against stock with my limited experience. I'll look into the options. Thanks!
I just put in the little big brake kit in my NB2 (no ABS, no sport brakes), great pedal feel! Few quick questions, I've already got your front brake cooling ducts piped into the front dust shields. I do a few time trial events and autocross in the car at high plains raceway / la junta / PMP here in CO. No issues at all braking at HPR, but I did notice the rears were getting quite a bit hotter that the fronts, enough that it caused the cheap plastic centers on my race wheels (running A7 slicks) to soften up enough to fall out; but only on the rears. I just picked up your brake portioning valve, and wanted to know: should I run biased more braking to the front of the car? Should I run some cooling ducts into the rear as well? both?
Glad to hear you're enjoying them!
It's awfully difficult to duct to the rear brakes on normal cars. The front brakes always do more work - your brake proportioning should be set so the rears do as much work as they can, but not lock before the fronts. With A7s, you'll be running a lot of front brake because you'll get a lot of weight transfer due to your high traction levels.
Plastic center caps are always at risk on track cars. It's possible the rears are not getting the same airflow on the face of the wheels. The rears also don't have as much heat capacity in the rotors.
I have the BBR package on my '20 club. When I bought the car I changed all fluids including flushing the brakes. Pads looked fine, so I left them alone, (I assume they're stock). The pedal feel even after the flush isn't what I'd like. They're not really soft or spongy, but they don't feel hard and sporty either; they feel like passenger car brakes that are geared towards regular traffic in the city rather than sports car brakes that are direct and firm. Will upgrading to steel brake lines help this? Is this typical for the brembos? The calipers are about the same size as your biggest wilwood brake kit, so I would assume they'd have markedly better stiffness and heat capacity than stock or the little big brake kit.
We're not sure if by "BBR" package you mean the stock front Brembo brakes, or something else. However, upgrading to steel brake lines can help improve brake pedal feel. Upgrading to a slightly more aggressive brake pad can also help, if the stainless lines aren't enough. The stock Brembos are probably similarly stiff compared to any of our Wilwood caliper upgrades, but our Wilwood upgrades do typically save weight compared to the stock Brembos. Heat capacity would likely be similiar.
@@FlyinMiataVideo Oh, sorry. BBR refers to Brembo, BBS, Recaro; the optional package on NDs. Just used to abbreviating it this way in forums.
Great Video! I have a 90' miata... so the smaller rotors on the car. Could I get the LBB kit for the fronts, and then keep the rear breaks stock? Or for the rears should I upgrade to 10-inch -1.8 rotors and then in turn upgrade to 1.8 calipers?
We'd generally match the rotor diameter on the NA/NB cars, for aesthetic and performance reasons. That said, you probably wouldn't notice much of a difference in most scenarios.
If you want to get nerdy about this, feel free to shoot us an email at support@flyinmiata.com or give us a call at 970-464-5600.
@@FlyinMiataVideo Ok thanks!
Awesome video! I have always wondered which would the best brake kit for a Autox Boosted Nc.
At the moment, I have ah nc club edition in stock form, but I’m planning to upgrade it!
I know that you recommended it the first kit for autox but are those brake enough for a 300hpish car, 2400 pounds car in autox?
The only thing that I don’t want is to put a brake kit that would under perform ( not stopping) or over-perform ( locking wheels)
Autocross doesn't put a sustained heat load into the brakes since the runs are so short and the speeds are relatively low (heat goes up with the square of speed). So you don't need a massive rotor or pad. In your case, our NC Little Big Brake Kit would work well.
All brake systems should be capable of locking wheels, but a good pad choice will make it easy to control at the threshold.
Hi, you mention the famous daisy wheels on NA can't accommodate the Wilwood calipers. But would some spacers help for this purpose ? And if yes, what minimum size ?
Yes, spacers will likely help. The dimensions of the spacers will depend on just what Wilwood calipers you're talking about and the offset/diameter of the rotor. We suggest using the brake templates available on our site to confirm for the kit you're looking at.
Should there be any special consideration for cars without ABS? Would the big brake kit just lock up the wheels instantly for example
That’s a factor in brake design and pad selection. The brake torque (amount of braking for a given amount of pedal force) usually goes up, but not dramatically. It’s all about the correct selection of piston sizes and pads that have good attack and release characteristics.
So, no. The biggest difference in designing for non-ABS cars is that proportioning is even more important.
Do you know if there is a big difference of brake efficiency between 255mm and 270mm with little big break ? I have stock rotor 255 with RC6 and I didn't have any heat trouble.
The larger rotor will have more heat capacity and deliver more brake torque than the smaller one. If you're not having heat problems with the 255 now, it's unlikely you'll have problems if you add the Little Big Brake caliper.
I have a nd 1.5, I want a budget brake upgrade. Can I put 2.0 brakes on my 1.5 or do I need too change the master cylinder aswell, is all I need the calipers and carrier and rotors?
Unfortunately, we don't have any information on the ND 1.5, as it's not sold in North America. It's unlikely it would require a new master cylinder, but a Mazda dealer could check to see if the part numbers are the same.
I know you guys said these clear the 15 inch wheels for the NA/NB Kits, but do they clear the factory 15x6 wheels that came on the NBs?
You'll likely need a spacer - we strongly recommend using the templates we provide in each brake kit product description to check clearance before you buy.
@@FlyinMiataVideothanks for the help👍
Is there no way to run a stiffer caliper than stock on the rear of the NC, but with the stock rotor size? I ask because there is a two-piece rear rotor out there in the stock size, and I'm looking to maximize my weight drop and for the best pedal feel.
The larger rear Wilwood caliper needed to be spaced further away from the centerline to fit.
@@FlyinMiataVideo gotcha, is that referring to further towards the face of the wheel, or further from the axis of rotation?
@@jeremymote238 Further from the axis of rotation
Would it be preferable to pair little big brake fronts with mazda sport rears on a NA8 miata or are the factory rears ok?
Also, how much more breaking torque can you expect with that caliper?
The piston sizes in the NA8 Little Big Brake front calipers are a close match to the stock NA8 calipers, so there's no need to change the rear calipers to the larger Sport ones unless you're looking for more rear bias. The amount of brake torque increase will depend in large part on the pad selection - since the hydraulic sizing is the same and the rotor diameter is unchanged, the only increase in brake torque will come from a slight improvement in efficiency due to the fixed caliper and whatever pad choice you make.
What pads do you use for bbk on ND. Is it 7812 ?
Yes, the 4 piston Dynapro calipers we use for our ND big brake kit use the 7812 backing plate.
Are the braking kits lighter than stock?
Depends on which one you're talking about. We do have lighter than stock options.
@@FlyinMiataVideo for nb2 the next choice after stock discs. Sorry for my english🙂
Will the fit the 1990 1993 years
We do offer several brake options for 1990-93 Miatas. If you want specific recommendations for your use, please contact our customer service team.
@@FlyinMiataVideo it’s says on your website it’s sold out now so I guess ima have find a different route
@@teoflores4088 If there's an ETA available, we'll post it to the site. You can also sign up to be notified when they restock by clicking the "Notify When Available" underneath the product description.
Keith Tanner looks like Doomguy in the thumbnail
What lugs are on the rotors?
Flyin' Miata aluminum lug nuts, of course!
flyinmiata.com/products/fm-aluminum-lug-nuts
How many brake fluid is required to make a complete flush on an ND
2 bottles (1 bottle = 500ml) should do the trick! If you've never attempted something like this, 3 bottles is a safe bet.
Power stop kits are way better price and performance
We also carry pad + line kits that use higher-quality components if you're on a budget. flyinmiata.com/products/pad-line-bleeder-hose-combo-for-nd-with-brembo-package