Thanks for these interactive videos. They're fun and help me think through diagnostics. As a hobbyist, I don't get much volume of troublesome cars despite my best efforts.
i would also like to check the crank sensor because i have seen crank sensors affect how a cam sensor reads. sometimes the pcm needs to see good signals from both to properly time the enigne as wel as fire the coils.
In my opinion i would look for wire rubbing which could pull the signal down occasionally. Then check for sensor fastening. Then i would condemn the sensor. In any case i would check the timing for my satisfaction.
I would test power and ground while cranking and/or running. I'm also thinking if this could be a mechanical problem, but for now I'd stick with checking the connection and wiring integrity.
Next I would find the signal wire into the ECU and do a resistance and continuity test to see if there might be a problem in the wire without having to trace the entire wire through the engine harness. I would check the harmonic balancer because that knocking sound on some of the starter sequences sounded like a balancer knock. Still suspicious of a timing related event that might not be associated with the CMP and instead a CKP that is throwing off the CMP. I don't know of any issues mechanically that would throw off the CMP other than perhaps some faulty VVT but if VVT was pertinent to this issue I'm sure you would have included that in the beginning vehicle description. I do enjoy these interaction sessions so much. Thanks for doing these!
Dear sir it needs to check more power, ground and signal wires while cranking using scope. There could be a problem with the sensor plug setting on the sensors pins, needs further investigation and cleaning if required. It could be a bad sensor. Also it could be some mechanical looseness of sensor in its housing. It could be a loose target plate on came shaft giving target to the sensor.
I would check the crank sensor wave form. Also see if both sensors share a common reference or sensor ground. May have a shorted crank sensor causing that erractic cam sensor waveform.
I would re check power and ground moving the connector and the wires around a little bit with the engine cranking and then running. Based on the fact that when the engine is in open loop is running good maybe i would concentrate on the wires.
Very interesting problem. You say the problem occurs while wiggling the cam sensor, so clearly there is something amiss with the cam sensor. I might look up the resistance values for the sensor and ohm it out. It's possible there is something loose, corroded, or failed inside the sensor. I doubt a fix of the sensor is possible but it would help to narrow down the sensor as the specific troublemaker.
I would check he five volt positive regulator feed during cranking and look for a solid power feed during the erratic episode if good I would triple check the connector with tension tool, resistance test the connector before deciding, look for loose pins, moisture, insulating greases...silicone grease does not belong on low volt connections and repeat the failure again and replace both the pigtail connector and cmp sensor with a soldered connection then insulate it with rtv or spray
At this stage, I would unplug the sensor at that connector, clean the contacts and check that the wire is properly crimped (or soldered) to the pin. I would reassemble it and wiggle the connector and the sensor wire with the engine idling to see if I could disturb the signal to give me a better idea as to where a potential loose connection might be before replacing anything. I might even remove the hall-effect sensor completely, put it on the bench and test it out with a magnet and an oscilloscope. Car engines, I don't know much about but I'm no stranger to hall-effect sensors.
I would check the signal wire integrity, if its good. i will check the crank sensor too and the wiring. if its good I will replace the cam sensor first and i will tell the customer if that won't fixed we have to go deeper to check other inputs and the timing as well.
Hi love your show. Before you replace the cam sensor I would remove the sensor and to see if the reluctor on the cam sprocket is broken or damaged in anyway. You can do so my removing it and looking through the hole while someone is cranking or by remove the valve cover.
unplug sensor, inspect pins for looseness or contamination inside, probe signal wire and perform wiggle test on harness, if it remains steady remove and inspect sensor for damage
Spend a little more time inspecting those power and grounds with the probe. Unplug and check the pins. Remove the cam sensor and inspect it visually. Consider changes in clearance eg cam end float. Order new sensor.
This could possibly be the cam sensor, but it more probably could also be the wiring (yellow/blue) wire going to the sensor or a bad connection at the connector for this wire. If there is a break in insulation, for example, or the connection is not stable, the movement of the engine when cranking or revving the engine could cause that break/bad connection to affect the tach signal, I would check the wire and connection next.
wtbm123 Good one. Maybe it's connections are only good when it's cold...assuming we're talking internal to the sensor, that would assure the sensor is done and needs replacement.
Well by what you've shown the computer can't read the garbled data , and as a mechanic myself and hearing the tip from Mike Holmes would make me think to investigate a bit further in that the cam timing plate is loose and is out of sync, that is if it's a pressed fit gear and the cam will have to be replaced but, the weak link would also make me think to check the sheer pin on the cam drive or the crank drive , that is to say if its chain driven. Somewhere in the system the timing is way off and listening to the way it was starting of it farten and kicking up a storm up through the intake tells me its a bad timing issue.
check manual and confirm style of sensor/sender.Could be a poor connection on signal pin, take connector apart and check both sides, maybe jumper across to make confirmation of wether connector or sensor. Would be highly unlikely it's the sender side but..with that all out of the way, replace sensor.
Good signal! 12+ 12-! First √ sensor physical condition? Eg loose or loose pickup? If ok. We need to check the reluctor wheel? Is it spinning on the cam shaft? Thanks great test video
I know this videos pretty old but it's worth a shot. Have you ever had these motors bend a spark plug ground due to the cam sensor being faulty? I have the same motor thata exhibiting the same issues but it's also bending the #3 spark plug on 3 differnet motors. I will be checking the cam sensor as you showed in the video and see what I get. Just wanted to see if you've ever seen spark plugs bend from detonation caused by the cam sensor. Thanks!
Yes, it is rare and usually forgotten as a possibility. I actually believe that the plug-ground had gotten so hot that it became soft enough be be deformed by the compression. The reason that I believe that is because I saw no signs of impact with the valves.
MASTER the signal is weak, however the reference showed on the scanner shows a possible failure of feed to the computer or damaged computer ... or contamination of the signal ... nesecitamos see both signals CAM and CKP ... GREAT VIDEO AND RESPECT GREETINGS FROM MEXICO.
More test need to be done before replace the Cam sensor, the Crank sensor can be the problem when is hot, if the Crank sensor produce small signal the PCM will not se it. no RPM.. I will scope the Crank and Cam when engine is cold and when is hot..
I was watching MAF sensor gms/sec, they were reading too high. Such a small car does not idle at 6 g/s. 5 V reference voltage seems to be a problem. I will check computer ground now just confirm it. ECM gives the 5V power. that is where I am going.
Crank sensor replacement is what I would do because the symptoms pertain to that. If those didn't work I would replace the PCM because of the erratic readings.
I would change the cam sensor first then try it again with the anailzer, it least it might run better that way...could be crank sensor as well....exhaust isnt blocked is it?, i know that has nothing to do with the analisis...Fred in UK
This does not prove the sensor is bad. It could be a bad connection in the plug. Also metering the power and ground does not prove they are good. 1) Scoping the power and ground would prove that the power and ground are good. 2) Check the connector is not faulty or loose causing intermittent connection. 3) Make sure the sensor mounting is not loose. If it vibrates around the signal will be bad. 4) Make sure the part e.g. magnet is not loose or moving or the rotating part e.g end float.
David G A power probe will only show a static fault not a dynamic one as this could be. You need a time based probe e.g. scope for dynamic faults. Calm down? I don't get it?
Rhage73 Lets say the cable is chafed and only shorts out when the motor is hot an you have motor vibration present The reading would be fine on a DC meter but when scoped and running it would show the drop outs. This is the difference between a dynamic and static measurement.
if you were using alligator clips clipped onto a T pin wouldn't meter show the drop out? I use a DMM a lot. usually i will just watch the screen of the DMM and if the source V drops off u will see it, or i will put it on the continuity check and if ground falls out it will stop beeping. I only need a scope to see wave shapes mostly. If im watching injectors pulse or compairing crank sensor to injector firing in that case 2 channel scope. the dmm tells me everything else i need. again im just discussing it with you, im not trolling at all. i enjoy other peoples thoughts on their technique
even if the connector is bad, can the connecter be fixed on the cam sensor? I'd replace the cam sensor, then go ahead and start it. If it runs smooth, I'd be done with it. But if it hesitates, I'd go ahead and check the crank position sensor. Mine went bad in my jeep. Also, the whole system in my jeep is connected to other systems, including two oxygen sensors, one of which had a short that was found by accident. The wire wiggle test should be done for all the harness wires, always, it is a Jeep staple for us jeep owners. So, 1. fix any connection that is fixable, if not, change cam sensor. Start it, see if runs smoothly. 2. wiggle the harness wires to crank. Dirt and debris had covered a large short in my crank sensor wires. I fixed that one with my friends. 3. if all is good, what else can you do but check the computer readouts some more?
Well!you have good voltage and ground..and we all see the signal from scan data.but what if is the signal wire is bad some where...its time to bring pico scope at the connector of the cam sensor!.that we tell us ..
Yeah, at this point I'd replace it. It may be something else, but at that point it would be sufficient evidence for me to replace it. If somebody wanted to be extremely thorough you could bench test the cam sensor by pulling it off, hooking up power/ground, and probe the sensor manually.
I would do a bypass test and look at the rpm pid to see if I have good wiring back to the ECM If I did I would pull the sensor and check for damaged reluctor wheel and if that was ok I would change the sensor
but is that NO codes parked or moving, use the scan tool driving, and for sure try to get it to fail, if no P03xx codes. the its COP boots bad. the RPM runs off the CMP if the CMP dies, the spark ends. yours is Intermittent. seen 100s like this on the forum. the old engine G16 the ignitor is used for tachometer, but on the j20 engine there are 4 ignitor, one in each COP. so they used CMP for tach. (during the owner skipped tune up we put in new cop boots, with new spark plugs, this cures bad boots.
i would probably check where the cam sensor is reading, sometimes if it reads peaks and valleys there can be debris in the valley and cause bad ju ju. if the valley is O.K. and the peaks arn't damaged. I would do what a bunch of other folk have said while i was at it and make sure the sensor itself didnt have broken pins. now, some of the people said "the test doesn't mean the sensor is bad, it could have a broken electrical connection " my argument there is, if the pin on the sensor is broken, you have to replace it because its what? ya bad. maybe not electronically bad, but if you have a perfectly good fan and you cant plug it in because it has a broken plug, it don't move any air.
***** There are different setups, in some chain setups the chain tensioner will go bad really way before the chain itself gets old and will cause the chain to stretch and eventually to brake. One example is the fiat multijet engine, i know that for a fact as i've replaced chians on those here in Italy. By the way i don't really thinks engine timing is a problem here.
Andrea Gili ......exactly although I recently did a timing belt on a charger 3.5L ...the belt jumped about 7 teeth ....replaced belt and engine would run great cold and would die when warmed up ......it has bent valves ....go figure that one out
Ichabod Mudd believe the 12v is supply and the 5v is the control that sends signal to the computer. he probed the 12v and ground. the 5v is dropping out when it sends signal. thats how the computer knows how fast the cam is moving. "like i said I believe that to be the case" i could be wrong and if i am, i dont understand this nearly as well as i thought i did. =)
Remove and test the sensor. Problems with other parts of the circuit could cause the same symptoms. If it's a Hall effect sensor, it should be trivial to test.
i watched the video, now (one sensor is shorting the +5vdcref or ground outs. on this line; or the ECU 5vref is bad. or? The CMP needs clean 5v, as do all 5v sensors. so I had it correct (yesterday) CMP drop out. seen hundreds on the forum for this. 5v bounce: sure. (a bingo 1 failure) i'd see of 5vdc is good, with all sensors, removed (that use 5v) ! then if 5vdc is ok now, id put them back one by one until 5v fails (jumps) and the bingo 2 moment. (electronics tech, I am, retired) and seen far worst than this. (how about mid harness shorts, where no man can reach, ouch) btw nice video! As they all are.
Thanks for these interactive videos. They're fun and help me think through diagnostics. As a hobbyist, I don't get much volume of troublesome cars despite my best efforts.
I really love your video . Very impressive and informative . I have a 2003 suzuki vitara . And I love it . Keep up the great work . ....
i would also like to check the crank sensor because i have seen crank sensors affect how a cam sensor reads. sometimes the pcm needs to see good signals from both to properly time the enigne as wel as fire the coils.
In my opinion i would look for wire rubbing which could pull the signal down occasionally. Then check for sensor fastening. Then i would condemn the sensor. In any case i would check the timing for my satisfaction.
I would test power and ground while cranking and/or running. I'm also thinking if this could be a mechanical problem, but for now I'd stick with checking the connection and wiring integrity.
Disconnect the cam sensor and start the car. It may take a longer crank but when it fires up it should run as normal in default mode.
Test the signal wire by unplugging it and it should be a steady 5 volts or so,also wiggle it to look for dropouts.
Next I would find the signal wire into the ECU and do a resistance and continuity test to see if there might be a problem in the wire without having to trace the entire wire through the engine harness. I would check the harmonic balancer because that knocking sound on some of the starter sequences sounded like a balancer knock. Still suspicious of a timing related event that might not be associated with the CMP and instead a CKP that is throwing off the CMP. I don't know of any issues mechanically that would throw off the CMP other than perhaps some faulty VVT but if VVT was pertinent to this issue I'm sure you would have included that in the beginning vehicle description. I do enjoy these interaction sessions so much. Thanks for doing these!
Dear sir it needs to check more power, ground and signal wires while cranking using scope. There could be a problem with the sensor plug setting on the sensors pins, needs further investigation and cleaning if required. It could be a bad sensor. Also it could be some mechanical looseness of sensor in its housing. It could be a loose target plate on came shaft giving target to the sensor.
I would check the crank sensor wave form. Also see if both sensors share a common reference or sensor ground. May have a shorted crank sensor causing that erractic cam sensor waveform.
I would re check power and ground moving the connector and the wires around a little bit with the engine cranking and then running. Based on the fact that when the engine is in open loop is running good maybe i would concentrate on the wires.
Very interesting problem. You say the problem occurs while wiggling the cam sensor, so clearly there is something amiss with the cam sensor. I might look up the resistance values for the sensor and ohm it out. It's possible there is something loose, corroded, or failed inside the sensor. I doubt a fix of the sensor is possible but it would help to narrow down the sensor as the specific troublemaker.
I would check he five volt positive regulator feed during cranking and look for a solid power feed during the erratic episode if good I would triple check the connector with tension tool, resistance test the connector before deciding, look for loose pins, moisture, insulating greases...silicone grease does not belong on low volt connections and repeat the failure again and replace both the pigtail connector and cmp sensor with a soldered connection then insulate it with rtv or spray
You should always do a close visual inspection because, it very well could be what the sensor reads off of; or an intermittent connection.
At this stage, I would unplug the sensor at that connector, clean the contacts and check that the wire is properly crimped (or soldered) to the pin. I would reassemble it and wiggle the connector and the sensor wire with the engine idling to see if I could disturb the signal to give me a better idea as to where a potential loose connection might be before replacing anything.
I might even remove the hall-effect sensor completely, put it on the bench and test it out with a magnet and an oscilloscope.
Car engines, I don't know much about but I'm no stranger to hall-effect sensors.
I would check the signal wire integrity, if its good. i will check the crank sensor too and the wiring. if its good I will replace the cam sensor first and i will tell the customer if that won't fixed we have to go deeper to check other inputs and the timing as well.
Hi love your show. Before you replace the cam sensor I would remove the sensor and to see if the reluctor on the cam sprocket is broken or damaged in anyway. You can do so my removing it and looking through the hole while someone is cranking or by remove the valve cover.
+mike pro there's no reason to check for damage as there's consistent clean square waves.
unplug sensor, inspect pins for looseness or contamination inside, probe signal wire and perform wiggle test on harness, if it remains steady remove and inspect sensor for damage
Spend a little more time inspecting those power and grounds with the probe. Unplug and check the pins.
Remove the cam sensor and inspect it visually. Consider changes in clearance eg cam end float. Order new sensor.
This could possibly be the cam sensor, but it more probably could also be the wiring (yellow/blue) wire going to the sensor or a bad connection at the connector for this wire. If there is a break in insulation, for example, or the connection is not stable, the movement of the engine when cranking or revving the engine could cause that break/bad connection to affect the tach signal, I would check the wire and connection next.
CPS, would be my guess. It would explain a lot..
May try to heat and cool off the cam sensor to see if it changes readings.
wtbm123 Good one. Maybe it's connections are only good when it's cold...assuming we're talking internal to the sensor, that would assure the sensor is done and needs replacement.
That would narrow directly to the sensor, great tip
Could it be faulty alternator with shot diodes causing to much AC signal in the circuit causing the interference. Thanks for the videos
Well by what you've shown the computer can't read the garbled data , and as a mechanic myself and hearing the tip from Mike Holmes would make me think to investigate a bit further in that the cam timing plate is loose and is out of sync, that is if it's a pressed fit gear and the cam will have to be replaced but, the weak link would also make me think to check the sheer pin on the cam drive or the crank drive , that is to say if its chain driven. Somewhere in the system the timing is way off and listening to the way it was starting of it farten and kicking up a storm up through the intake tells me its a bad timing issue.
check manual and confirm style of sensor/sender.Could be a poor connection on signal pin, take connector apart and check both sides, maybe jumper across to make confirmation of wether connector or sensor. Would be highly unlikely it's the sender side but..with that all out of the way, replace sensor.
Good signal! 12+ 12-!
First √ sensor physical condition? Eg loose or loose pickup? If ok. We need to check the reluctor wheel? Is it spinning on the cam shaft? Thanks great test video
I know this videos pretty old but it's worth a shot. Have you ever had these motors bend a spark plug ground due to the cam sensor being faulty? I have the same motor thata exhibiting the same issues but it's also bending the #3 spark plug on 3 differnet motors. I will be checking the cam sensor as you showed in the video and see what I get. Just wanted to see if you've ever seen spark plugs bend from detonation caused by the cam sensor. Thanks!
Yes, it is rare and usually forgotten as a possibility. I actually believe that the plug-ground had gotten so hot that it became soft enough be be deformed by the compression. The reason that I believe that is because I saw no signs of impact with the valves.
I just traded my PP3 in for the PP4 .....highly recommended.....what am improvement !!
MASTER the signal is weak, however the reference showed on the scanner shows a possible failure of feed to the computer or damaged computer ... or contamination of the signal ... nesecitamos see both signals CAM and CKP ... GREAT VIDEO AND RESPECT GREETINGS FROM MEXICO.
More test need to be done before replace the Cam sensor, the Crank sensor can be the problem when is hot, if the Crank sensor produce small signal the PCM will not se it. no RPM.. I will scope the Crank and Cam when engine is cold and when is hot..
check the connector, since wiggling it has an effect you say.
I was watching MAF sensor gms/sec, they were reading too high. Such a small car does not idle at 6 g/s. 5 V reference voltage seems to be a problem. I will check computer ground now just confirm it. ECM gives the 5V power. that is where I am going.
Crank sensor replacement is what I would do because the symptoms pertain to that. If those didn't work I would replace the PCM because of the erratic readings.
I would change the cam sensor first then try it again with the anailzer, it least it might run better that way...could be crank sensor as well....exhaust isnt blocked is it?, i know that has nothing to do with the analisis...Fred in UK
This does not prove the sensor is bad. It could be a bad connection in the plug. Also metering the power and ground does not prove they are good.
1) Scoping the power and ground would prove that the power and ground are good.
2) Check the connector is not faulty or loose causing intermittent connection.
3) Make sure the sensor mounting is not loose. If it vibrates around the signal will be bad.
4) Make sure the part e.g. magnet is not loose or moving or the rotating part e.g end float.
Robonza If it was intermittent the power probe would show that, maybe he could've waited longer for the test, but calm down lol.
David G A power probe will only show a static fault not a dynamic one as this could be. You need a time based probe e.g. scope for dynamic faults. Calm down? I don't get it?
Robonza why scope it instead of meter it? its just DC. not trolling, just curious of your thought process.
Rhage73 Lets say the cable is chafed and only shorts out when the motor is hot an you have motor vibration present The reading would be fine on a DC meter but when scoped and running it would show the drop outs. This is the difference between a dynamic and static measurement.
if you were using alligator clips clipped onto a T pin wouldn't meter show the drop out? I use a DMM a lot. usually i will just watch the screen of the DMM and if the source V drops off u will see it, or i will put it on the continuity check and if ground falls out it will stop beeping. I only need a scope to see wave shapes mostly. If im watching injectors pulse or compairing crank sensor to injector firing in that case 2 channel scope. the dmm tells me everything else i need. again im just discussing it with you, im not trolling at all. i enjoy other peoples thoughts on their technique
even if the connector is bad, can the connecter be fixed on the cam sensor? I'd replace the cam sensor, then go ahead and start it. If it runs smooth, I'd be done with it. But if it hesitates, I'd go ahead and check the crank position sensor. Mine went bad in my jeep. Also, the whole system in my jeep is connected to other systems, including two oxygen sensors, one of which had a short that was found by accident. The wire wiggle test should be done for all the harness wires, always, it is a Jeep staple for us jeep owners. So, 1. fix any connection that is fixable, if not, change cam sensor. Start it, see if runs smoothly. 2. wiggle the harness wires to crank. Dirt and debris had covered a large short in my crank sensor wires. I fixed that one with my friends. 3. if all is good, what else can you do but check the computer readouts some more?
Well!you have good voltage and ground..and we all see the signal from scan data.but what if is the signal wire is bad some where...its time to bring pico scope at the connector of the cam sensor!.that we tell us ..
Yeah, at this point I'd replace it. It may be something else, but at that point it would be sufficient evidence for me to replace it.
If somebody wanted to be extremely thorough you could bench test the cam sensor by pulling it off, hooking up power/ground, and probe the sensor manually.
is that an autel scanner your reading the data from at the beginning of the video?
phil holbrook That was my guess too.
check sensor with multimeter if it's good condition then check the plug for short connection to figure out the cause for this trouble shooting
I would do a bypass test and look at the rpm pid to see if I have good wiring back to the ECM If I did I would pull the sensor and check for damaged reluctor wheel and if that was ok I would change the sensor
but is that NO codes parked or moving, use the scan tool driving, and for sure try to get it to fail, if no P03xx codes. the its COP boots bad.
the RPM runs off the CMP if the CMP dies, the spark ends. yours is Intermittent.
seen 100s like this on the forum.
the old engine G16 the ignitor is used for tachometer, but on the j20 engine there are 4 ignitor, one in each COP. so they used CMP for tach. (during the owner skipped tune up we put in new cop boots, with new spark plugs, this cures bad boots.
The way it sounded when you were cranking, sounds like a timing issue probably loose timing belt or chain.
more tracking on that issue because the crank sensor is not the final fault
I'm still suspicious of a mechanical cam timing issue such as a sticking VCT solenoid or a cam chain tensioner.
Next, I'd check the signal wire for a "break".
i would probably check where the cam sensor is reading, sometimes if it reads peaks and valleys there can be debris in the valley and cause bad ju ju. if the valley is O.K. and the peaks arn't damaged. I would do what a bunch of other folk have said while i was at it and make sure the sensor itself didnt have broken pins. now, some of the people said "the test doesn't mean the sensor is bad, it could have a broken electrical connection " my argument there is, if the pin on the sensor is broken, you have to replace it because its what? ya bad. maybe not electronically bad, but if you have a perfectly good fan and you cant plug it in because it has a broken plug, it don't move any air.
It’s crank shaft sensor
The cam signal could be correct and there is a problem with the timing belt.
John Lloyd I would have think about that if it wasn't running ok when cold.
the chain if loss will not cause the +5vdc to jump, the 5v is a supply voltage that is regulated fully.
***** There are different setups, in some chain setups the chain tensioner will go bad really way before the chain itself gets old and will cause the chain to stretch and eventually to brake. One example is the fiat multijet engine, i know that for a fact as i've replaced chians on those here in Italy. By the way i don't really thinks engine timing is a problem here.
Andrea Gili ......exactly although I recently did a timing belt on a charger 3.5L ...the belt jumped about 7 teeth ....replaced belt and engine would run great cold and would die when warmed up ......it has bent valves ....go figure that one out
Ichabod Mudd believe the 12v is supply and the 5v is the control that sends signal to the computer. he probed the 12v and ground. the 5v is dropping out when it sends signal. thats how the computer knows how fast the cam is moving. "like i said I believe that to be the case" i could be wrong and if i am, i dont understand this nearly as well as i thought i did. =)
Bring back working on the fiero!
I thought it was a 5 v reframe?
Remove and test the sensor. Problems with other parts of the circuit could cause the same symptoms. If it's a Hall effect sensor, it should be trivial to test.
i watched the video, now (one sensor is shorting the +5vdcref or ground outs. on this line;
or the ECU 5vref is bad. or? The CMP needs clean 5v, as do all 5v sensors.
so I had it correct (yesterday) CMP drop out. seen hundreds on the forum for this.
5v bounce: sure. (a bingo 1 failure)
i'd see of 5vdc is good, with all sensors, removed (that use 5v) !
then if 5vdc is ok now, id put them back one by one until 5v fails (jumps) and the bingo 2 moment. (electronics tech, I am, retired) and seen far worst than this. (how about mid harness shorts, where no man can reach, ouch) btw nice video! As they all are.
Chang cam sencer..check timing...
8169 rpm LOL! That'd be some starter!
Suzuki Crank sensors don't give fault codes...
Jan Visser The RPM drop is clue 1
Timing chain
I think it's the battery.
Sensor could be ok, bad gap, bad wiring, bad ecu or cam timing
Changes with heat so i would say the internals are going bad!
Id say coil break down when hot
Yeah I would just replace it now
Refrance
Cam censer foly