Toyota Sienna CV axle removal tips for frozen carrier bearing
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- Informational video to show the method I used to remove the passenger side CV axle on my 2006 Toyota Sienna. The carrier bearing was frozen in the bracket mounted to the engine block and required an alternative method in order to remove it. I used a Diablo Steel Demon carbide tipped sawzall blade to cut the axle into segments in order to remove the axle. This method was easy, cheap, and saved me a ton of time.
Just used your technique today. I've replaced CV axles in all my cars over the years but this passenger side setup on a 2005 Totota Sienna was just hell. After finally locating a special box end wrench (a used Snap On) I was able to loosen the third hidden bolt on the drive axle carrier mount. but as you said, the mounting pins for the mount made any lateral movement impossible. Besides, there was no wiggle anyway with the shaft in the transaxle. I rented the reciprocating saw (Makita) at home depot and bought the Diablo Steel Demon carbide tipped blade. Lying on my back, under the front of the minivan as it balanced on jackstands, while holding a moving saw blade over my head was sobering. But the blade made things go quickly. Once extracted, hammering (pounding)what was left of the driveshaf/bearing from the mount was strangely satisfing. When the bearing and shaft hit the ground after it exited the vice was a true personal victory after three days of frustration. Thanks again for the video!
Thanks for this video. It was a real life saver. It took me about 3-5 minutes for each cut through the axle using the blade you suggested and a Dewalt Sawzall (vs. your impressive 45 seconds). Once I had the carrier out and in a vise, it still took me about 15 massive whacks with a beefy hammer to get the remaining axle piece out, which is just nuts. I followed tips in the comments to sand out the rust and add some grease in the carrier before installing the new axle, but I still had a difficult time getting the new axle to seat all the way in to allow the clip to go back in properly. It took a lot of squeezing with pliers and a crowbar before I got it in (another hour of frustration).
Cutting through the axle with the car above you on jack stands is definitely not for the faint of heart.
THAT BLADE IS A BEAST!!! So much frustration! This video made my day. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! As soon as the video ended, I was in my (other) car driving to Home Depot. Took me about 10 to 15 minutes to make the first cut and less than 5 to make the second cut. It was very gratifying to put a socket on that miserable final mounting bolt. I had access to a 6 ton press, and it took every bit of those 6 tons to break that bearing lose from the mounting bracket housing. UNREAL. I spent a lot of time thoroughly cleaning the bearing housing, and was rewarded when the new shaft bearing installed smoothly, but it took me about an hour to get that spring ring back in the bearing housing groove (grrrrrr). The rest of the install was a breeze. Thanks again for posting this video! Great idea!!
Thanks - helpful video! Very helpful to understand your experience before tacking my own. I just changed the driver & passenger side CV axle on my 2012 Toyota Sienna. Only removed the lower control arm (2 nuts & 1 bolt) and was able to move the strut around to remove the axle. I really dreaded the upcoming fight with that carrier bearing rusted into the housing. Purchased special carbide cutting blades, hammer bits, pry bars, etc - only to decide to try soaking the bearing in Seafoam Extreme Marine overnight - and you won't believe it. Once I removed the clip and bolt, while pulling the lower control arm off, the shaft just slipped right out. I was blown away. The interior showed signs of rust and I definitely saw rust drain when I doused it in lube, but never thought it would literally dissolve it. The key was letting it soak overnight, just like Project Farm recommends.
Hope other experience same results.
Thanks again for taking the time to share your video.
I watched your video yesterday. Today I tackled my 2005 Sienna passenger side CV axle and tie rod boot. It kicked my butt, but your video helped immensely. You gave me the idea to cut the axle with my 4.5 inch grinder and then hammer it out with a 3lb sledge. I used half a can of PB blaster! The job is done and the vibration is gone.
Thanks for posting the video!
Thank you! Because of this video I just had a shop do it. Didn't want my van falling on top of me. I tried to be nice and soaked the bearing a week before in wd40. To no surprise the shop called to tell me they had a hard time getting it out and it would stay overnight. I warned them though and said they could cut it out! My van runs smooth now and I greatly appreciate the mechanic who worked on it!
Dude, I know this video is three years old, but you just saved my ass.
I have to do this on a 07 Scion TC. I live in the northeast and everything under this car nothing but rust.
I bought a new axle from Detroit Axle, and it came with a new carrier bearing.
But there was no way I was going to get the old one out, till I watched this video.
I will be cutting off those stupid pins to make re assembly easier.
Again, awesome video.
By the way, the axle with the carrier bearing was under $100 bucks and free shipping.
Great video, this is a really good tip. I was able to loosen the bearing carrier with a box end wrench and cheater bar, but there still wasn't enough clearance to slide the carrier over the alignment pins after the bolts were removed...so, I still had to cut mine out. A sawzaw and regular cheap fine tooth blade takes about 10 minutes (with frequent breaks) to get through the hollow part of the axle. If I had to go through the solid part, it would take about half an hour. Wish I would have found your video earlier.
I don't live in a rust belt state, but I still had to soak the bearing with PB blaster and beat it with a sledge afterwards.
Watched dozens of videos before finding this one. This is the only thing that worked. $15 for the blade and an hour to finish. Note. Cut the cv joint first. I cut my axle first and had to use vise grips to hold the axle so that I could finish the cv joint.
I was able to get it out a little differently I was able to get all three screws out of the bracket using an open end wrench and a 2nd wrench on the most difficult one. Then I used a slide hammer and puller and pulled the axle away from the transmission and then turned the bracket around and pulled the bracket out of the car with the old axle. Once I did this we did apply some heat using a small propane torch and were able to remove the axle from the bracket. What a pain. So it is possible to remove the bracket still attached to the axle. I am not sure that I would have been able to get it out other wise.
I can't even losses that hidden bolt tried ratcheting wrench got happy to get it on but it's stuck I torched it still didn't budge no leverage to break loose gonna get back to cutting idk I felt was down there cutting for 5 to 10 mins got nowhere same blade but a dewalt cordless saw zall I bought new bracket so might jist try and cut a slice in bracket and wedge open to remove bearing also gonna try and drill breaking out from that volt hole on bottom of bracket.... I'd try the longer bolt to Crack bearing but I don't have one plus don't know the threads om it to do so ima tale it woth me tomorrow amd try that route and get longer bolt idc if mess threads up I have a new bracket was tryna save but at this point idc how get it out just want it done Van's on jackstands outside 4 hrs of nothing even trying to cut didn't take no 45 seconds...
What a great idea. I had been fight for hours when I saw this. SAWZALL with carbide blade worked for me. Stuck stuck stuck. Bought the carbide blade and cut the axle about 3 inches from bearing on transaxle side. Pulled the axle out of trans. Hit the stub from the bearing 5 times with 2 pound hammer and out it came.
Thank you for the tips Joshua. Bought the Diablo Steel Demon carbide tipped blade at Home Depot and just got through the solid part of the axle with relative ease. Now I'm hoping to be able to get to all 3 bolts on the bearing carrier an get the rest out. Be careful to not have the blade too far up as to knick the bearing mount flange.
I beat on mine for 2 days and it would not budge. I finally cut a notch through the side of the bracket and split it with a chisel. This loosened the bearing enough I could slide it out. I replaced the bracket with a new one for about $73.
Genius
Thanks. Cutting the axel was a pain in my back. It took about 10 mins just for the cut by the bearing. The other was close to the same. It worked regardless. I put the bracket on the ground and beat the bearing out in 5 good wacks. Bolted it all back up in about 20 mins and I was back on the road. Not a bad job.
I tried the air hammer on the bearing shroud, heating, penetrating oil, banging nothing worked. Then tried your method, and bam done. I was surprised how quickly I could cut through the axle. I used 6" Milwaukee thick metal, carbide tiped blade, and WD40 for cooling (just in case). Thanks for the tip.
Thank You! I would not have been able to finish my avalon without this video! Even after cutting it out I still couldn't knock it out of the bracket on the bench vise. I ended up having to destroy the bearing to get the axel out (drilled then bashed the bearing apart). Then using the Sawzall to cut a notch out of the puter ring of the bearing (the part thats rusted to the bracket). I was then able to break it loose and knock it out.
Emory cloth is a good cheap option to clean up the inside of the bracket before trying to install the replacement.
Thanks for sharing your video. I may have to replace the entire drive shaft on our 2002 Sienna but don't know yet until I check the condition of the tripod bearing that right next to that carrier bearing. ..... For folks who may need to do this job, I don't think it's necessary to cut the axle right at the carrier bearing as shown in the video. Just remove the bands on the boot for the inner joint and pull the boot back. That should allow the outer drive shaft and tripod bearing to just slide out of the tripod bearing housing. .... Try this first and if I'm wrong, then cut the axle next to the bearing. .... Really appreciate your video since I was at a loss on how to remove the carrier bearing from the housing without a large press. Thanks bro!
Just fid this today, to check conditions of tri bearing you dont need to touch the carrier bearing at all, but to replace the whole axle you do
Thank you for the tip. Hate that they added that 3rd bolt and even 2 metal pins that hold it in place. I had tried all sorts of stuff including heating the bracket. maybe 5 minutes of cutting took care of it, and then I was able to press it out with a harbor freight press.
Wish I would have seen this video before I started replacing my axle, I was able to unbolt the bolt behind the axle, it took a lot of time and patience. But then they were two still pins holding the carrier in place. I was able to pull one out but I had to cut the other one with a hacksaw blade. I really think this would have saved me a lot of time. What a pain.
Same thing as a 2016 Rav 4, make sure to pick up at least three of these blades (they are $16 bucks each) and you will use at lease two of them. If I would have seen this video first I would have save myself a lot of hours of frustration! Thank you sir.
Dude, thanks for taking the time to share and upload the video. It saved me tons of frustration...keeping my 2005 Sienna going at 197,000 miles!!!
Mines at 297000
This man speaks the truth for a 2002 Toyota Camry. Cut the external shaft off. Remove the carrier bearing bracket bolts. Now struggle a couple of more hours removing the remaining shaft from the transmission. :-)
Usually HEAT will solve the problem but your solution is good as well. The saw blade will cost the same as torch fuel or even less, plus no open flame, and safer.Good job.
This video makes me happy! Time to show it to my mechanic who wants to change all the struts/shocks/and what not....
Dude, thanks. I have the same van, and it had identical symptoms. I knew from a different video that the bearing would be a problem, but thought "maybe mine will just pop right out"...nope. I then found your video, and went out and bought that blade. My wife asked "why do you have glitter all over your face?", because I was covered with bits of steel from the cut. I wish I had a corded sawsall, as I kept burning through batteries. But all in all it was done within the day, and I feel like you totally saved my bacon.
I spent all day trying to take out my passenger cv axle on my 1998 Lexus ES300, this video helps out a great deal!! I had to call out of work but I'm confident I can remove that last bolt you mentioned out the bracket, that is all that is left. Not to underestimate your mechanic skills, but I will use my short socket 14 mm and wiggle it downward when removing it. If that doesn't work, thank you for being practical and proving cutting it with a saw-saw can get it done.
There are people that do good and then there are saints, and u sir, are the latter!!!! Thank you for saving me $400 plus!!
Doing my passenger side CV axle on my 09 Sienna. Looks like I'll be buying a diablo blade tomorrow and try again. Great video!
Thank you Joshua. I am doing mine and it is being a pain. I really appreciate the video!
Yup.. had the same problem on 02 Toyota Avalon.. Wound up replacing the carrier.
Nissan's also have the same problem but you can easily disconnect the carrier for the engine block and pull the axle and carrier out as one piece. They do not have the mounting pins on the carrier bracket so it's easy to side the whole assembly out
Im glad i came across your video. I started to change the axle in a 04 lexus es. The carrier bracket is frozen to the bearing. After about 2 hrs of using a 4lb mini sledge and various punch tools, still no success. I just went to home depot and bought that blade. hopefully it will work..
Any luck I tried cutting was no 45 seconds more like 10 mins and maybe a quarter of the way through gave up tried beating on it some more what a pain in da arse still nothing cars sitting oitsode on jack stands fml gonna give it another go tomorrow I have a bracket if cant get it out just want it out already I'm 8 hrs in to the job propane torching beating and beating can I beat the bearing out? Like break it apart internally? I think ima try amd drill through that bolt hole and shatter bearing tomorrow see if that works 🤞
Thanks for this video. The cut through the CV joint side took about ten minutes, turning the axle four or five times. The cut on the transmission side took less than five minutes but of course it's halfway hollow, unlike the CV side which is solid steel. My guess is that if the van was up on a lift cutting time would be much less because 1) you could see what the saw blade was doing and 2) you could hold the saw at a the optimum angle.
Four or five hits with a 5lb sledge with the carrier bracket in a vice had the bearing out. Thanks again!
Before you cut. I have a 2011 Honda Ody with 275k miles. Same problem discussed in this video just a different car. In my case, the bolts that mount the carrier bearing bracket to the engine mounted bracket were nearly frozen in place to the point I thought I was going to snap them. I used my impact wrench (with a bunch of extensions) to tighten/loosen/tighten to break the corrosion. Then I found that the carrier bearing bracket was fused to the engine mounted bracket due to corrosion and miles. Since I could not even spin the carrier bearing bracket, it was not possible to back out the engine mount bracket bolts in order to remove the whole assembly. I ripped out the outer axle/hub which left the half shaft in place still connected to the transmission. Over 4 days I attacked this with heat, hammer&punch strikes, pry bars, come-along & a slide hammer (rented free upon return from Autozone where I bought the new axle). Here is the process that worked to finally separate the 2 brackets: started with 5 straight minutes of MAP/Oxygen heat from underneath (heat gun registered 450F, the bracket dissipates heat rapidly so it takes a while to get this up to temp), followed by the air hammer applied to the carrier bearing bracket for 2 minutes which caused the bracket to move ever so slightly which was my clue to move on to the slide hammer to finish the job to pull it out. I really thought I would have to cut it out (as in this video). Hopefully this helps some of you DIYers before resorting to cutting out your axle. Good luck to you.
thank you so much. i was able to cutoff both sides of the axle using non diablo blades. i only had some milwaukee metal blades on hand. It took a bit longer but i finally cut through with the sawzall!
Literally I’m in the same situation right now. I replaced the driver side with out any problems then attempted passenger side axle and had a huge issue. What I did was removed the 3 bolts holding the the bearing mount and took a hammer and punch the axle out with the bracket still attached. Then realizing I can’t hammer off the bracket and local shops are unwilling to press it out even offering decent money. I looked into getting a new mounting bracket. The bracket for me ranges from $84-$104. I have 2012 Toyota Camry se and the part number for this is PN#43457-0t010. Depending on how much you want to save press it out if possible if not calculate how much you paid for your axles along with the bearing mount and compare it to the cost of labor that goes along with a mechanic shop you are still saving a good amount. I was quoted $600 just for the passenger side “tire kingdom” and that’s not even from a dealer.
I do this jobs all the time and the best way for me (obviously) tap on the R/F cv axle lightly to vibrate the corroded section of the bearing-to-bracket (try not to tap too hard or you could damage the transaxle). Now that the shaking/loosening is done then use a medium size pry bar or ball joint remover tool between the bracket and inboard joint, pry while tapping the shaft section closest to the bracket. Pry harder than the tapping and also take care not to shift the vehicle. I have done about maybe 7 sienna that way. The first made the mistake of following this video. Thought it was great up until I didn't have electical source to power my grinder. Necessity is the mother of all inventions. It has worked for me thus far.
Idk man i did one today even got whole bearing housing red hot with oxy/acetlyne torch and nothing. Cutting it was the only way
You should post a video of your technique!
Can I beat the bearing enough so internal parts are completely broke and tore up and slide the axel out ? Then access bolt for bracket and get that off to finish up?
Just finished this job on our '05 using this tried and true method, talk about a pain in the *ding-ding*. If you're shade-treeing this with jack stands and lacking decent ground clearance I highly recommend the Makita JR3051T. It's a couple inches shorter than the other brands/models HD carries. Gives you enough maneuverability in tight spaces, plenty of 12 amp power and $100. Using two of the above mentioned Diablo blades, it takes a total of 5 mins to make three clean cuts, then you'll have 90% of the axle removed w/ clear access to the bearing carrier bolts. Clamp carrier in bench vise, soak bearing in PB Blaster for 20 mins then make love to it with a 4lb sledge. Couple dozen strokes will show it who's boss. Best of luck and be careful of the metal shavings.
45 seconds? I was there over 10 mins hardly made a dent what kind of recip saw are you using?
Thanks for the video. A regular blade works fine on the hollow part of the shaft. Then you can take everything out and whack it.
Thank you so much sr , I been struggling with my Toyota Avalon for a week now , I am gonna use that blade to cut it and get it out !!
@@karkule5919 yes I cut it , it was super hard to get it out ,I had to pound itt with a sledgehammer 7 times ,but finally I got it out
@@karkule5919 i think It depends ,my car was the first time I service the cv axles, but I wish you the best and hope you have no problem .
@@karkule5919 definitely you can do it your self , I did it myself , for me it was tbe hard way but If I could ,you can.
@@karkule5919 you're welcome sr.
Update,
Thanks I got my minivan fixed and back on the road.
Glad it was helpful.
Very helpful video!
I have not seen this information on any other UA-cam videos.
Thank you.
Thanks , I'm stuck on taking it off. I'm buying that blade today.
Links to blade plz
Thanks for the tips lol I was trying that today could not get it I was thinking about using a air hammer
Wow didn't realize what I had signed up for, thanks for the tip seems like the way to go. I live by the ocean so even though I haven't gotten mine apart just yet, I'd be surprised it this wasn't an issue.
I imagine yours will be seized just like the rest. Just make sure that you get the blade for high strength steel. Apparently there are two kinds of carbide tipped blades, and the one I used was for high strength steel. Some of the others in the comments below may have used the other kind of blade and it took significantly longer for them to cut through.- Good Luck!
what TPI are you guys using , obtaining good results?
Thanks. I’ll try your method coz I have the exact problem u describe with the carrier bearing.
yes yes yes well done man weld done !
couldent just put a c ring like everyone else i love toyota but this "carrier bracket pressed bearing" bullshit is so dumb
Thank you so much!!!
Are you sure it only took 45 seconds to cut? I was cutting for about 20 minutes today and only got about 10% through the solid steel next to the bearing.
Update: I got through it after about 40 minutes of cutting. I turned the other tire to rotate the axel so I could keep cutting around the edges, but it did finally come through. Definitely sore from holding the saw so long. Thanks for this tip! I tried to do this same job 3 years ago and couldn't get past this step.
Bummer that it took you longer. I dont know if the type of saw i used made a difference, but it really blew right though it with no problems. Glad to hear that it did finally work for you!
It took me 3-5 minutes through the thickest part of the shaft but you HAVE to use the diablo steel demon that states on the blade it is carbide designed for thick steel. It can be confusing because there are many blades that look similar.
@@randyowens3419 It also took me about 3 minutes with a Dewalt Sawzall and the $10 diable carbide tip steel demon blade from Home Depot.
Same I barely put a dent
My issue is the snap ring is stuck. Any ideas on removing it?
Twist it out got mine out that way but purchased one from toyota 1st was less than 10 bucks
After you cut the inboard shaft and removed the bearing race/mount. Was the remaining shaft easy to pull from the trans?
I work on cars and when I see toyotas passenger side axle, I try to stay away from them,I see top mechanics give up on them and give back the customer their car back,what I do is heat up the bearing and hammer the axle and sometime sell the bracket if it damage too or remove it with the axle, but thank to joshua I have a easier way to do it now, no problem just bring it
Thanks for the Info!! I tried every method for that wicked design to come loose and i thought thats it i dont know any further. Than I saw this video and went and bought a blade like this. It took me a bit longer than 45 seconds to go through but it worked! Thanks for all the help! Tomorrow I will take that motor mount bracket off and hopefully replace the rest of that shaft..
Good job!
I cut the axle as well and saved time no point trying to beat it
Thanks for the video. So you were able to get to third bolt after you cut it close to the bearing?
Cut a segment out of the axle and then you can knock the axle through with a hammer. This will give you access to the bolt.
Smart way to get to that bolt. Thank you sir.
Update, this technique works great, once the axle is out I had to beat the crap out of it with a sledge-it took about 7 serious blows to release it from the carrier.
Do people in the south have this problem with cars that have never seen snow or ice? About to do this on my ES330 which has the same design... car has been a Houston TX car its whole life so I'm hoping it won't be quite this bad...
I'm in South Florida and it took about 5 blows with a hammer and punch to get mine out. I felt lucky and I sure greased up the new bearing and carrier when I installed the new shaft
Oh, and the vibration on acceleration 40mph-70mph is now gone.
You can get that bolt out of the engine block you have to rotate the inner CV joint until you have the bolt in one of the three concave portions of the cv joint
Nope. Amigo toyota tech here. We cut them out, and replace the carrier bearing housing. 38 bucks. Works. Every. Time.
@@gerard4870 yeah try finding one for 38$ in an rx350. I did exactly as stated above and it worked fine. After cutting the intermediate shaft
@colchronic how got it out? A socket?
Thank you
How did you get the new one in? Does it just slide in the carrier bracket??
Yeah. I took time to use fine grit sandpaper and remove all corrosion inside the bracket. Then before I installed the new one I lubricated the surface with a high quality/high temp grease. This helped the new axle slide in but I hope it will also prevent corrosion.
I watched all the videos on this and this one makes the most sense, I'm buying the diablo and getting to it, why try to finesse it under the car?
Once removed add a little heat resistant grease and avoid it getting stuck in the future.
Yes, I did the same. Good extra tip
Thank you sir.
Oh I think in cutting to close to the housing for the axel bearing of the outter side of the axel ima try and cut closer to the bearing and bracket I have a replacement bracket so idc if cant get it out jist wanna get it off 4 hrs got no where from 25 mins maybe less felt like 45 mins of cutting g barely made a dent so beat it worh a hammer and propane still nothing now my car sitting in parking lot on jack stands fml glad it's Friday I have 2 days to get thos done
how did you pull the rod connected to transmission out? i don't see a place you can hammer it out. thx
Should just slide, after you do the 2 cuts take off the bearing housing, and slide remaining axle out of transmission. Theres nothing holding it in, just a splined shaft that shouldnt be rusted because its always in oil
Thank y
I tried this with the demon carbide thick metal blade and it didn't not want to cut. Idk if it was because I was using the cheap harbor freight sawzall
I used a dewalt and did both cuts in about 15 min total, minus the battery swap times. I used 3 batteries lol
@thechum9653 I went almost fully through a 8ah battery felt got nowhere I just wanna reach that bolt if I can and get that bolt out I'll cut the rest if I cant get bolt out I'm stuck there I hope it comes out I'm tossing that bracket off a bridge after I'm replacing it f that
I tried this with a crappy blade...didn't work. 😅 Spend the money on the real thing and get it done. I was working on a 2013 Altima and spent 3 days of hell trying to get it out. Even managed to get the bracket unbolted but an oil cooler or something prevented extraction...wound up cutting the top edge of the bracket off with a hax saw and bought a used one off eBay for $100 bucks...wish I would've found out about the better blade option. Tried the saws all with a crappy brand metal cutting blade and barely scored the axle.
TOYOTA OWNERS! Never Replace Your Leaky Axle -- this is the video.
This is too much work, and potentially dangerous if the blade slips and you end up puncturing the block. Toyota designed that bolt hole under the carrier bearing to be able to break the race, it serves no purpose other than that. The C Clip is what keeps the bearing from sliding out of the bracket. I'd just use an oversized bolt to break the bearing race and tap it out, plug that hole up with silicon to keep dirt from getting in there if you ruin the thread.
Ty finally someone who said how to use even though was mentioned in the video so how get longer bolt? I have to match bolt that came out of it to a new one I'm guessing I can get at home depot? Idc if destroy bracket already bought replacement ... plz any tips? My van up on jack stands after 8 hrs in 2 of beating and tryna cut... I cant put outter part back in somehow it doesn't fint now maybe heat shrunk it because now it don't slide back in plus I destroyed the bearing so I'm sure I won't be able to drive even if I could get that shaft back in
It’s literally the only way
These aren't that hard to get out. Go on the transmission side of the carrier bearing bracket and use an air chisel on the housing on the wheel side of the bracket to drive it out. Just keep going. If that's not enough a large crow bar on the housing of the axle and some strong hits from maul will drive it out. Just did mine yesterday. You will need to remove the shields on the bottom of the car. Don't understand all these cuts and strange approaches to a simple problem. The housing has flats to drive against with an air chisel or crow bar designed into them
I have removed many of these. Most can be tapped out, but occasionally you run into one seized due to rust or the outer aluminum plate of the bearing slightly wedging and preventing it from moving. Total lateral seizure.
Cutting is then the only way. A 5 foot bar smashed repeatedly by a 2 hander sledge hammer isn't enough in these cases and the shaft must be cut. Ask me how I know? 😅
@@adamndiascan I tottally destroy the bearing besting on it then slide it out to access bolt? What is I drill into the bearing from that bolt hole that bolt with rubber it on it hole I'm using jack stands and jack so not much leverage I was thinking of taking a punch trough that hole and hitting with hammer but no space to get a good wack
@@prtbone78 Just get a sawzall with a Diablo blade and cut the axle in half left of the bearing. Everything will then just slide out.
@adammrck-vikingguy7464 I have a cordless dewalt saw zall and a 9 inch diablo blade...im gonna go grab another probably a 6 inch though...I barely cut half way through the outer part of the cv my van is dead in the water I destroyed the bearing for some reason can't even get the outter cv back into the housing so I'm on jack stands until ...
@adammrck-vikingguy7464 also read ppl that cut that side 1st can't remove then have to hold the axel with vise grips to hold it from spinning while cutting other side I love in a community they don't allow working on vehicles so yet again have to wait til they leave if they didn't say anything I'm sure I'd of had more progress since waited all day yesterday til 7pm stopped at 11pm with little to no results .. they leave today earlier but it takes forever for my 8ah battery to charge I have a 8 and 4 and like 4 smaller ones but doubt the smaller ones will last more than 5 mins it's a brand new saw zall purposely for this job too
Why are people not just buying the new bearing bracket. Cheap enough at your local autopart store..
Still have to get it off the car thays what I'm doing but can't get this thing out doing cutting process stopped felt was getting nowhere especially with how steel flakes flying off while under there ima get back at it again I have 9 inch gonna grab me a 6 inch pause blade tomorrow incase I need it... my idea was to cut housing for bearings of outer part of the axel horizontal in 2 spots to make space to get bolt out but ima jist do it the way shown hope can get the bolt out though hoping an impact will get that sucker out I hested it up tried open end wrench to it but it didn't budge
NOT a "Carrier bearing", no no no. Carrier bearings are in a differential, and support the "Carrier, for the ring gear, side gears, and "Spider" gears. Carrier bearings are NOT a part of the CV axle, or any drive shaft setup.
Soon i will be dong my wife's pas side drive axle. I want my core charge if possible. Pretty sure once cut, that'll never happen.
A brand new Carquest axle is only a few dollars more than a rebuilt and no core required.
Design of this is absolute terrible, I spend 2 hours banging on it with everything. I had to cut it and then take it out then in a wise I heated it and beat it out.....clean it out good and put special lube for seasons metal. Good luck!
Uses flappy saw bit
2 hours later
“How to cut through steel”
Hell yeah