▼EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR MORE RESOURCES RELATED TO THIS VIDEO▼ *Tools used in this video:* Harvey Bandsaw: www.harveywoodworking.com/collections/bandsaws Fence setup gauge: www.chipsfly.com/bandsaw-companion.html *Links related to this video:* -Video about band saw guides: ua-cam.com/video/3MPR2kcMhJU/v-deo.html -Video about band saw blade selection: ua-cam.com/video/z7n7Gg4QOkc/v-deo.html -Video about choosing a good bandsaw: ua-cam.com/video/sUsKYElDKl0/v-deo.html -More videos on our website: stumpynubs.com/ -Subscribe to our e-Magazine: stumpynubs.com/browse-and-subscribe/ -Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/ -Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/ ★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★ Harvey Woodworking Machinery: www.harveywoodworking.com/ *Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!* (If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission)
Quite informative and very usefully information to use on my saw this week. From a former michigander born and raised now transplanted to Arizona. Thank you!
Thank you! Im going to try this on my low-cost WEN this weekend. This bandsaw, by the way, comes with bearing blade guides as standard equipment. No high-cost option necessary.
Thank you! I'm going to try this on my low-cost WEN this weekend. By the way, that bandsaw comes with bearing blade guides as standard equipment. No high-cost option necessary.
Great video. I would just add one small step that has saved me a lot of fidgeting.... back off both the upper and lower guides before setting the tracking and the tension. Once that's where you want it, then set the bearings (or guide blocks) for the clearances you prefer. If you've ever tried to get the tracking right while a bearing is holding back the adjustment, you know why some folks get so frustrated.
If you take a black magic marker and draw lines around the edges of each of your wheel bearings you can easily see when your blade is spinning due to the friction of the blade! A lot easier on old eyes to see!
Of all the things I’ve tried on my saw, from expensive roller guides to a fancy fence, I’ve never beaten the blade drift. And here it was sitting front of me the whole time: rotate the table! How I managed to miss that in every other tips video I’ve watched is beyond me. Can’t wait to get down to the shop and sort it out! Thanks a million!
Nice to know I am not alone, just commented on the same thing. What a laugh after having to live with that for so long because I thought it was just a me thing.
Thank you, James. Can’t believe that the instructions on my bandsaw deals with the fence rather than the table to solve drift. One of the best bandsaw brands out there, and still… 🙄
I have not used my bandsaw for many years, because I could not solve this drifting issue. I have looked and looked online and found no solutions. I will be trying these adjustments this weekend. Thank you, Thank You, THANK YOU for this video!
I bought a Harvey bandsaw C14 when you last recommended it, love it. Now the “Black Friday sale” price is up by nearly $800. Crazy Increase in just 1 year
This is why I subscribed. I’ve been struggling all year with a new saw and multiple sets of blades, bearings, and belts. Straightforward and 100% effective.
First it was sharpening chisels and plane irons, now it is setting up my bandsaw. EVERY time I watch one of your videos my quality of work improves and my frustration goes down. Thank you so much!
Of all the tools in my shop the bandsaw is definitely the most difficult and tedious to get setup correctly. I have watched many different setup videos. Yours makes the most sense. I’m going to give it a try using your recommendations. Thank you sir!!
I don't have a bandsaw ... I don't even have a woodshop! Why did I watch this video all the way through? I guess it's just entertaining content on it's own. Keep up the great work.
This video changed the way my bandsaw performs! I was very discouraged not being able to correct the drift and then you came up with the solution to my problem as my blade was not centered on the wheel. It is now true and I am able to resaw with my bandsaw. Thank you very much!
Most can probably agree that a bandsaw is one of the last investments they make for a shop. Partially because of these fiddly issues you just smashed in a few short minutes! ...and probably because of that I ended up with a bandsaw from the alley. It wasn't working and the blade was off. I found that the cover for the blade was bent and the safety switch wouldn't engage!! It's just a green baby saw, but it works! I look forward to further adjustments and putting it to the test. ....thanks again!
It's getting a bit repetitions but... Again I say... Great video, packed with useful, pragmatic info. Took me watching many (not so great) videos to learn what James presents in 7 minutes. (wish I had seen this video a while back, would have saved me hours spent on the others). Also.. The only person I have ever seen that states that either of the 2 common ways of setting tracking will work (but not any 'in between' settings). Dead on! Thank you once again Mr Nubs!!
I have setup my saw in the same way as described in this video after watching a similar one by the guy from Carter Guides and my little benchtop 10", 1/2 horse Rikon cuts true and straight through 5" hardwood all day long, these tricks really, really do work for all saws. Thanks!
Thanks for the clip. I have a table top Ryobi band saw. It took me almost a year to figure out why it wasn't cutting straight. Now I got it. I wish I have watched this presentation much earlier, which would have saved me a lot of time and headache. Everything you said is correct.
i wished to thank you so much !!! I own a bench top band saw for small wood work in my shop since some years. I did in the past some various adjustments but never succeeded to have quasi no drift. Looking at YOUR video, i have understood why !!! I did again various adjustments, revised all settings, reworked the table holes and axis. Now : it's a dream, all work perfectly, quasi NO drift, 90 deg cuts are excellent. As a complement i use a home made micrometric and magnetic fence jig and get excellent results. ie resawing a piece of wood of 50 mm large down to 42 mm exactly at a glance, so easy now. A little hand plane work to adjust and all if fine in no time. So, again thank you, you made my day !!! Every time i will use my and saw, i will think about you ... PS: i did watch may other videos which were great and useful but yours opened my mind on my issue.
Hi James, Fantastic video. I have seen many videos on how to set up a bandsaw but this one is the simplest to follow. I have an old DeWalt 3501 and took my time to set it up properly. It has blocks and not bearings so it was great to see you cover this as many videos don't, they just explain bearings. I just wished you would have posted this video 4 years ago. LOL. I do as you suggested and check the set up periodically and always after tilting the table. I make a lot of segmented pens so an accurate set up is vital for me. Take care James and thanks again for this video. Cheers, Huw
I totally agree with all you have said. People who watch this video will be able to set up their machine properly and get excellent results. I have set up machines for people in the Woodturning Club and they are always amazed how good this tool can be. Thank you, Jack from the UK.
You did it again! My bandsaw has been cutting perfectly until two days ago. Last night I was going to search YT for a tuning video I'd seen a year ago, but at the top of my feed was this one. This has happened before, just as I set out to search, you have a new vid on the topic I need. After tweaking the blade on the top wheel and adjusting my rear guide bushing, I was cutting 1/16th inch strips again using my fence! Thx.
Hola! For someone like me that does not (yet) have a bandsaw, this video is still very helpful. It is very informative and educational. It also provides insight as to what lies ahead once this tool is in my shop, thanks for this video, take care and have a good one. Adios! 🖐
Thanks James. This is how I setup my 14” Delta, but FYI, Shopsmith bandsaws do not have crowned wheels and the blade is designed to run against “auto-tracking” bearings which position the blade to the back of the wheels. Also, due to the conical shape of the upper wheel and the way that the upper wheel is tensioned on a cantilevered arm, drift is common. I love the Shopsmith bandsaw but it is a different animal. Scott
Thank you! I have my grandpa's old Craftsman bandsaw that is in need of a tune up and this is perfect. I inherited several tools after he passed away and I'm slowly getting them cleaned, tuned, and finding the manuals for them.
James, this should be a must-see video for anyone that owns a bandsaw. So much of what you showed here I had to learn out of trial and error and with the help of old-salts' as yourself. One thing I'd like to see or explained is when the upper guide is raised or lowered, it might not track in perfect alignment with the blade. This can cause tracking and/or other issues as well. Some machines allow for adjusting the alignment, such as yours, I believe, but older styles don't, and might require re-adjusting the upper guides when moving the guides from an inch or two from the table to ten or twelve inches up.
Tool saver! This video got what I thought was a crappy tabletop band saw up and running! At least for 2 cuts before the drive belt disintegrated! Sigh! Guess I’ll get back to that project next week when the new one arrives. But honestly, this is fast becoming my go to channel good tool info!
finally a video on bandsaws that will work. when i trained i was taught these steps. one trick i discovered myself for the tension is to pluck it till it becomes a note. just like tuning a guitar for instance.
Nice video. Made me go check my big Laguna and I found it had drifted out of alignment. Even for us who've been in the crafts for decades benefit from reviewing this kind of information.
Your advice (and a new blade) allowed me to get my recently inherited Global Machinery Company 9 inch saw cutting straight. Before it cut at about a twenty degree angle. Definitely not a quality saw, but at least it cuts straight now.
I have adjusted my bandsaw before (Jet 18"), but after watching your video and I gave it another go and this time I was way more diligent especially with the lower guides, and now she is purring like a kitten and cutting straight and true. Thanks!!
Right then, thanks for that. The usual plain English. I'm going to the shed tomorrow for a showdown with the beast. I now I feel I have the wherewithal to make it do my bidding. Stewart, south west Australia.
From the witty title onwards, this is a great video that has to be the clearest and most concise tutorial on setting up bandsaws. Thank you so much James
Great video. Every bandsaw user should know these things. The best advice is to align the gusset squarely on the center of the upper wheel. The advice of the ancients was to overhang the teeth off the left side thus guaranteeing drift. Placement of the thrust bearing should leave enough, but no more, gap to prevent the teeth from touching the side guides.
This video is exactly what I needed at just the right time. I just bought a used Jet band saw that belonged to my friend's dad who passed away last month. I ordered a new blade for it, and it was just delivered yesterday. So this weekend's project will be installing the new blade and making all of these adjustments that were explained in this video. Thank again for another top notch video!
The reason the wheels are crowned is that the crown counter intuitively applies a force towards the center of the crown. The force has to do with the elasticity of the belt/band, and it is much more pronounced for rubber belts. If the saw is not centered on the crown, it should drift towards the center over time, but there are a lot of other factors that may come in to play.
This is exactly how I have always done it....except....I back off all four of the guide blocks/bearings plus the rear bearings. Now adjust the bottom left, than the bottom right. Now the top left and than the top right. finally adjust the rear bearings. Doing it this way eliminates (mostly) going bnack and forth with each conact point. I always finish by using a stone to round the rear edge of the blade so it won't scrape the kerf as it passes through.
I just got the new 16" South Bend bandsaw. I actually had to adjust the top bearing guide system to be parallel and square with the blade. It's something I had never heard of before and was interesting to fix.
Watched one of your other bandsaw set up videos the other day. I have an old Craftsman 12" bandsaw. Used the techniques you went over, and my saw works so much better now
lots of good stuff, thanks. I have an old Delta 14 and I'd like to give a shout -out to Cool Blocks. Won't damage blades like metal blocks and much much cheaper than bearings.
Nice job, Stump. You covered it. The only small point I can add is make sure you have a good quality blade. Some cheap blades can have inconsistently set teeth. It will be nearly impossible to get such a blade to cut straight. Same as what you said about dull or damaged blades.
Thanks for the tips! I have a Delta 14" with variable speed control and a metal cutting blade for aluminum. It works reasonably well but it drifts ever so little. Will attend to it.
James, thank you so much! I've been tinkering fruitlessly trying to improve my accuracy ever since I bought my first band saw. This has been an enlightenment! Thank you, thank you.
Thank you for your excellent tutorial for setting up a bandsaw. I have researched and experimented setting up my bandsaw for several years. The method you describe is exactly how I finally figured it out through trial and error. It works perfectly, and, your explanation is straight to the point, simple to understand and covers every detail. No other source, from magazines, videos or woodworking show demos comes close to your video. Excellent.
I have a new-ish Delta table top bandsaw and then a really old Craftsman, haven't used either. Tried to use the Delta but could NOT get the blade to stay on. I suspect the blade is toast, turns out it's an odd size that no one has in stock locally, so now I wait for a shipment to come in by mail. The Craftsman is I think a 14 inch but I have yet to even plug it in. Looks like an awesome tool.
I was following Alex Snodgrass’ procedure all this time. You setup procedure is more concise and complete, as Snodgrass doesn’t address drift correction.
I'd love to see a video on setting up cheap tools, like a Harbor Freight bandsaw, for us poors... How to make the best out of less than optimal tools. ^^
Thank you for this video! I’ve watched a couple of vids for calibration but nothing as nicely detailed as this one. You have the “analysis knack” for explaining cause and effect instead of just saying “do this.” Nicely done!!
I’ve always been put off by thoughts of big wheels, tires, tension, blade guides, tracking and drift. This video makes adjustment seem much more reasonable (and feasible, even though I realize it will probably take patience and several tries.). I particularly like your simple techniques for measuring tension and thrust bearing setup. There is, of course, still the dangerous step of removing the ties from a new blade. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for this tutorial. I make do with an 'el cheapo' bandsaw, but don't use it enough buying a higher end unit. With your instructions, I should be able to minimize an otherwise terrible amount of drift.
Thanks for another great video, James! Everybody and their brother, including some big names in woodworking, tells you to adjust the band saw fence to compensate for inevitable drift. A few tell you that drift is caused by worn or defective blades. Michael Fortune's video was the first I saw that points out that you can/should simply rotate the table so the slot(s) and fence are parallel to the blade. Duh! We expect to adjust a table saw table and fence parallel to the blade - why did so many of us not realize the same thing applies to our band saws? As you demonstrate, it works perfectly and it's easy enough, even on my 40-year-old Delta 14". Two other tips I can pass along for those with older, smaller band saws like mine: First, my 14" Delta was top heavy and annoyingly wobbly, especially on a mobile base. So, when I built a long table for my sliding crosscut miter saw a few years back, I made it the same height as my band saw table, and positioned the band saw at the end of the table. Then, I drilled a few holes in the frame and bolted my band saw to the fixed miter saw table. Now my band saw is rock solid and has 12 feet of outfeed support so I can easily rip long boards on the band saw. Second, Alex Snodgrass, in one of his band saw tune-up videos for Carter Products, suggests removing the table each time you change blades so it's easier to adjust those pesky hard-to-reach guides below the table. That turned out to be another "smack my forehead" moment for me. It turns out that removing and replacing the table makes it so much easier to adjust the lower guides that it's actually much faster than trying to do it with the table in place. As a result, I now change blades when necessary instead of forcing a cut with the wrong blade in the saw. Thanks also to the more powerful motor I picked up from Grizzly, my old Delta now performs like a much bigger saw. Of course, when I bought the ubiquitous Delta 14" band saw forty years ago, there weren't too many other options. So, I made these and other upgrades over the years trying to improve its performance. While I'm very pleased with it now, I'm sure that if I totaled it up, I spent as much as or more than I would today on a bigger, better saw like one of your Harveys. ;-) Thanks again, James, and be well!
You have become my favorite UA-cam woodworking channel due to your awesome and extensive tips! You have also convinced me to invest in a good bandsaw instead of replacing my defunct table saw. How is it in kicking up sawdust compared to a table saw? I noticed no dust in the video though I'm sure the amount it produces is basically the same. Is this the inherent nature of the tool or is it just due to your excellent dust collection system?
Lol I bought a 15 inch grizzly planer from a guy but, had no idea it was 220. Got a generator thogh so I can use it. Well if I can ever get it working properly. Must have jarred it around moving it.. almost 3 years ive owned it and haven't planed 1 board
Thank you James for the usual good work to put all together. Personally I have made exactly those procedures with my BS for some years but it was a headache and demanded several hours researching and arguing to get that "standard procedure". Your lesson can save lots of time for many people - as well save lots of frustration.
I have the same Harvey saw and I see you manually rotating the wheel @ the 2:57 mark. Just beware, I snapped my left index finger in half, breaking it in three places doing the same thing only slightly faster. My finger slipped ever so slightly and got caught between the wheel and the lower tensioning block. If I had caught it 1 inch higher, between the wheel and upper tension block mount, I'm afraid I would have lost the finger as there would have been no room for my finger to snap sideways and still clear the block. VERY DANGEROUS. This happened back in January and I just now got my fingernail back and starting to get feeling in the fingertip. Still love the saw :-)
▼EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR MORE RESOURCES RELATED TO THIS VIDEO▼
*Tools used in this video:*
Harvey Bandsaw: www.harveywoodworking.com/collections/bandsaws
Fence setup gauge: www.chipsfly.com/bandsaw-companion.html
*Links related to this video:*
-Video about band saw guides: ua-cam.com/video/3MPR2kcMhJU/v-deo.html
-Video about band saw blade selection: ua-cam.com/video/z7n7Gg4QOkc/v-deo.html
-Video about choosing a good bandsaw: ua-cam.com/video/sUsKYElDKl0/v-deo.html
-More videos on our website: stumpynubs.com/
-Subscribe to our e-Magazine: stumpynubs.com/browse-and-subscribe/
-Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/
-Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/
★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★
Harvey Woodworking Machinery: www.harveywoodworking.com/
*Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!*
(If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission)
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE CHEAP TOOLS★
-123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij
-Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK
-Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv
-Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9
-Irwin Drill Bit Gauge: amzn.to/2AwTkQg
-Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK
-Self-Centering Punch: amzn.to/2QvbcrC
-Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW
-Angle Cube: lddy.no/10nam
-Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7
-Utility knife: amzn.to/3nfhIiv
-Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak
-Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI
-Digital depth gauge: amzn.to/3mwRf2x
-Wood Glue: amzn.to/3mqek6M
-Spade Bits: amzn.to/3j8XPtD
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE HAND TOOLS★
-Digital Caliper: amzn.to/384H1Or
-Marking Gauge: lddy.no/10muz
-Marking knife: lddy.no/10mv0
-Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3
-Stanley Sweetheart Chisels: amzn.to/3y5HDOc
-Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6
-Gent Saw: lddy.no/ss2x
-Coping saw: amzn.to/2W7ZiUS
-Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE POWER TOOLS★
-Miter Saw: amzn.to/3gqIlQ8
-Jointer: amzn.to/3yc3gfZ
-Planer: amzn.to/3mn6BGF
-Router: amzn.to/3grD22S
-Sander: amzn.to/3DdvD0Y
-Cordless drill: amzn.to/3D9ZiIm
-Brad nailer: amzn.to/3gsRkjH
-Mini Compressor: amzn.to/3mvrmQr
-Bladerunner: amzn.to/2Wl0TtJ
-Jig Saw: amzn.to/3zetTBY
-Scroll Saw: amzn.to/3gq9qDc
-Multi-Tool: amzn.to/3muZuMi
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE OTHER TOOLS★
-Drill Bits: amzn.to/3B8Ckzh
-Forstner Bits: amzn.to/3kk3wEI
-Shop Vacuum: amzn.to/2Wkqnbl
-Machine Setup Blocks: amzn.to/3gq7kDh
-Counter-Sink Bit: amzn.to/37ZukUo
-Featherboard: amzn.to/3DeqHsq
-ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save $10): bit.ly/3BHYdH7
(If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)
Quite informative and very usefully information to use on my saw this week. From a former michigander born and raised now transplanted to Arizona. Thank you!
I’ve got an even better bandsaw tip, just don’t own one
Thank you! Im going to try this on my low-cost WEN this weekend. This bandsaw, by the way, comes with bearing blade guides as standard equipment. No high-cost option necessary.
Thank you! I'm going to try this on my low-cost WEN this weekend. By the way, that bandsaw comes with bearing blade guides as standard equipment. No high-cost option necessary.
Great video. I would just add one small step that has saved me a lot of fidgeting.... back off both the upper and lower guides before setting the tracking and the tension. Once that's where you want it, then set the bearings (or guide blocks) for the clearances you prefer. If you've ever tried to get the tracking right while a bearing is holding back the adjustment, you know why some folks get so frustrated.
Good point, I'll watch that.
Great tip thanks
Best, most straightforward instruction on truing a bandsaw I've seen. Can't wait to do this to my bandsaw!
If you take a black magic marker and draw lines around the edges of each of your wheel bearings you can easily see when your blade is spinning due to the friction of the blade! A lot easier on old eyes to see!
James I don't even own a band saw but I found this very informative
Of all the things I’ve tried on my saw, from expensive roller guides to a fancy fence, I’ve never beaten the blade drift. And here it was sitting front of me the whole time: rotate the table! How I managed to miss that in every other tips video I’ve watched is beyond me. Can’t wait to get down to the shop and sort it out! Thanks a million!
Nice to know I am not alone, just commented on the same thing. What a laugh after having to live with that for so long because I thought it was just a me thing.
Something I really like about your videos, when I click on the video I go directly to your content. Thank you for that.
Thank you, James. Can’t believe that the instructions on my bandsaw deals with the fence rather than the table to solve drift. One of the best bandsaw brands out there, and still… 🙄
I have not used my bandsaw for many years, because I could not solve this drifting issue. I have looked and looked online and found no solutions. I will be trying these adjustments this weekend.
Thank you, Thank You, THANK YOU for this video!
I bought a Harvey bandsaw C14 when you last recommended it, love it. Now the “Black Friday sale” price is up by nearly $800. Crazy Increase in just 1 year
Yeah, Harvey tools are are Made In China, so shipping is a bit of a PITA these days.
This is why I subscribed. I’ve been struggling all year with a new saw and multiple sets of blades, bearings, and belts. Straightforward and 100% effective.
First it was sharpening chisels and plane irons, now it is setting up my bandsaw. EVERY time I watch one of your videos my quality of work improves and my frustration goes down. Thank you so much!
Aah, adjust the table to the blade. Amazing how one never stops learning. Thank you for that snippet of info that is worth hours!!!!!!!
Still the best all-round woodworking channel to watch !! Thanks again !!
Of all the tools in my shop the bandsaw is definitely the most difficult and tedious to get setup correctly. I have watched many different setup videos. Yours makes the most sense. I’m going to give it a try using your recommendations. Thank you sir!!
My straight knife Jointer would like a word.
I don't have a bandsaw ... I don't even have a woodshop! Why did I watch this video all the way through? I guess it's just entertaining content on it's own. Keep up the great work.
Number one rule use a sharp blade ! If you have to force a cut the blade will wander no matter how you set up the saw ! Excellent video.
This video changed the way my bandsaw performs! I was very discouraged not being able to correct the drift and then you came up with the solution to my problem as my blade was not centered on the wheel. It is now true and I am able to resaw with my bandsaw. Thank you very much!
Thanks again for another clear, no nonsense video. You have a way of getting the point across without spending too much time on unnecessary material.
Most can probably agree that a bandsaw is one of the last investments they make for a shop. Partially because of these fiddly issues you just smashed in a few short minutes!
...and probably because of that I ended up with a bandsaw from the alley.
It wasn't working and the blade was off.
I found that the cover for the blade was bent and the safety switch wouldn't engage!!
It's just a green baby saw, but it works! I look forward to further adjustments and putting it to the test.
....thanks again!
It's getting a bit repetitions but... Again I say... Great video, packed with useful, pragmatic info. Took me watching many (not so great) videos to learn what James presents in 7 minutes. (wish I had seen this video a while back, would have saved me hours spent on the others). Also.. The only person I have ever seen that states that either of the 2 common ways of setting tracking will work (but not any 'in between' settings). Dead on! Thank you once again Mr Nubs!!
Thank you for this. I have a little band saw I bought at an estate sale and this will really help me get it running right.
I have setup my saw in the same way as described in this video after watching a similar one by the guy from Carter Guides and my little benchtop 10", 1/2 horse Rikon cuts true and straight through 5" hardwood all day long, these tricks really, really do work for all saws. Thanks!
I recently ordered a Harvey C14. I'm looking forward to applying these and other techniques. Thanks, James.
You clearly put a lot of care and effort into your videos, and they shine for it. Excellent work
Thanks for the clip. I have a table top Ryobi band saw. It took me almost a year to figure out why it wasn't cutting straight. Now I got it. I wish I have watched this presentation much earlier, which would have saved me a lot of time and headache. Everything you said is correct.
I don't have one, but I'm looking for a small one. And this is a great tip. Last time I worked with a bandsaw was 34 years ago. A lot has changed.
i wished to thank you so much !!! I own a bench top band saw for small wood work in my shop since some years. I did in the past some various adjustments but never succeeded to have quasi no drift. Looking at YOUR video, i have understood why !!! I did again various adjustments, revised all settings, reworked the table holes and axis. Now : it's a dream, all work perfectly, quasi NO drift, 90 deg cuts are excellent. As a complement i use a home made micrometric and magnetic fence jig and get excellent results. ie resawing a piece of wood of 50 mm large down to 42 mm exactly at a glance, so easy now. A little hand plane work to adjust and all if fine in no time. So, again thank you, you made my day !!! Every time i will use my and saw, i will think about you ... PS: i did watch may other videos which were great and useful but yours opened my mind on my issue.
Hi James, Fantastic video. I have seen many videos on how to set up a bandsaw but this one is the simplest to follow. I have an old DeWalt 3501 and took my time to set it up properly. It has blocks and not bearings so it was great to see you cover this as many videos don't, they just explain bearings.
I just wished you would have posted this video 4 years ago. LOL.
I do as you suggested and check the set up periodically and always after tilting the table.
I make a lot of segmented pens so an accurate set up is vital for me.
Take care James and thanks again for this video.
Cheers, Huw
I totally agree with all you have said. People who watch this video will be able to set up their machine properly and get excellent results. I have set up machines for people in the Woodturning Club and they are always amazed how good this tool can be. Thank you, Jack from the UK.
This was the best, most logical handsaw vid I've ever seen. Thanks.
You did it again! My bandsaw has been cutting perfectly until two days ago. Last night I was going to search YT for a tuning video I'd seen a year ago, but at the top of my feed was this one. This has happened before, just as I set out to search, you have a new vid on the topic I need. After tweaking the blade on the top wheel and adjusting my rear guide bushing, I was cutting 1/16th inch strips again using my fence! Thx.
Hola! For someone like me that does not (yet) have a bandsaw, this video is still very helpful. It is very informative and educational. It also provides insight as to what lies ahead once this tool is in my shop, thanks for this video, take care and have a good one. Adios! 🖐
Thank you James for yet another bucket full of Golden Nugget tips!
Thanks James. This is how I setup my 14” Delta, but FYI, Shopsmith bandsaws do not have crowned wheels and the blade is designed to run against “auto-tracking” bearings which position the blade to the back of the wheels. Also, due to the conical shape of the upper wheel and the way that the upper wheel is tensioned on a cantilevered arm, drift is common. I love the Shopsmith bandsaw but it is a different animal. Scott
Yes! That final tip about blade guard and guides cannot be said enough!
Because of you, and this channel, and your recommendations I now have my first real bandsaw I have the Harvey C14 and i love it.
Thank you! I have my grandpa's old Craftsman bandsaw that is in need of a tune up and this is perfect. I inherited several tools after he passed away and I'm slowly getting them cleaned, tuned, and finding the manuals for them.
James, this should be a must-see video for anyone that owns a bandsaw. So much of what you showed here I had to learn out of trial and error and with the help of old-salts' as yourself. One thing I'd like to see or explained is when the upper guide is raised or lowered, it might not track in perfect alignment with the blade. This can cause tracking and/or other issues as well. Some machines allow for adjusting the alignment, such as yours, I believe, but older styles don't, and might require re-adjusting the upper guides when moving the guides from an inch or two from the table to ten or twelve inches up.
If you can adjust the post's alignment to keep it consistent, I'd adjust the bearings each time you raise it high to resaw.
Tool saver! This video got what I thought was a crappy tabletop band saw up and running! At least for 2 cuts before the drive belt disintegrated! Sigh! Guess I’ll get back to that project next week when the new one arrives. But honestly, this is fast becoming my go to channel good tool info!
finally a video on bandsaws that will work. when i trained i was taught these steps. one trick i discovered myself for the tension is to pluck it till it becomes a note. just like tuning a guitar for instance.
I had tracking problems. The first thing I did was come to this video. Thanks for the instruction. I really do appreciate it!
Nice video. Made me go check my big Laguna and I found it had drifted out of alignment. Even for us who've been in the crafts for decades benefit from reviewing this kind of information.
Have a great Christmas and a happy 2022 all at Stumpy Nubs.
Peace, Love and Blessings on you, your families and friends.
Your advice (and a new blade) allowed me to get my recently inherited Global Machinery Company 9 inch saw cutting straight. Before it cut at about a twenty degree angle. Definitely not a quality saw, but at least it cuts straight now.
Thank you for this information. I've considered trashing my old saw, but tomorrow I will try to make these adjustments.
I did this to my old Craftsman band saw a little while ago, worth the time and it made it cut so much nicer.
Nice tutorial James. Very simple and concise for a novice like myself. Thanks.
I love the tip to test tautness - that I should check the blade opposite from the guides.
I have adjusted my bandsaw before (Jet 18"), but after watching your video and I gave it another go and this time I was way more diligent especially with the lower guides, and now she is purring like a kitten and cutting straight and true. Thanks!!
Right then, thanks for that. The usual plain English. I'm going to the shed tomorrow for a showdown with the beast. I now I feel I have the wherewithal to make it do my bidding. Stewart, south west Australia.
From the witty title onwards, this is a great video that has to be the clearest and most concise tutorial on setting up bandsaws. Thank you so much James
Finally someone has explained setup perfectly thank you stumpy great video
Great video. Every bandsaw user should know these things. The best advice is to align the gusset squarely on the center of the upper wheel. The advice of the ancients was to overhang the teeth off the left side thus guaranteeing drift. Placement of the thrust bearing should leave enough, but no more, gap to prevent the teeth from touching the side guides.
Absolute best demonstration of how to setup a bandsaw! And I am sold on getting my first Harvey Bandsaw, because of you, Stumpy!
This video is exactly what I needed at just the right time. I just bought a used Jet band saw that belonged to my friend's dad who passed away last month. I ordered a new blade for it, and it was just delivered yesterday. So this weekend's project will be installing the new blade and making all of these adjustments that were explained in this video. Thank again for another top notch video!
The reason the wheels are crowned is that the crown counter intuitively applies a force towards the center of the crown. The force has to do with the elasticity of the belt/band, and it is much more pronounced for rubber belts. If the saw is not centered on the crown, it should drift towards the center over time, but there are a lot of other factors that may come in to play.
Timely. I just bought a new- to- me Grizzly bandsaw yesterday.
I will be using alllll these tips to check my new mini benchtop band saw tomorrow!
Just received my Harvey Ambassador 14” band saw. Gonna use this tutorial to set it up right. Thank you very much
Cheers Jim, this video is going into my archive next to the Alex Snodgrass ones!
This video is was so informative I can imagine myself using this guide on my imaginary bandsaw when it starts to drift...
I have been fighting this for 10 years! Thank you.
Your wide ranging subject matter on the videos is great. It keeps me intrigued but never bored. Well done, Dr. Hamilton!
This is exactly how I have always done it....except....I back off all four of the guide blocks/bearings plus the rear bearings. Now adjust the bottom left, than the bottom right. Now the top left and than the top right. finally adjust the rear bearings. Doing it this way eliminates (mostly) going bnack and forth with each conact point. I always finish by using a stone to round the rear edge of the blade so it won't scrape the kerf as it passes through.
I just got the new 16" South Bend bandsaw. I actually had to adjust the top bearing guide system to be parallel and square with the blade. It's something I had never heard of before and was interesting to fix.
Beautiful video! Thank you so much for your dedication & careful descriptions. Just inherited grandpa's bandsaw and need to dial it in.
Thx for this video it reminded me all of the importance of the blade 👍🏼❤️ It would be nice to have a video about sharpening a bandsaw blade 👏👍🏼🇨🇦
Watched one of your other bandsaw set up videos the other day. I have an old Craftsman 12" bandsaw. Used the techniques you went over, and my saw works so much better now
lots of good stuff, thanks.
I have an old Delta 14 and I'd like to give a shout -out to Cool Blocks. Won't damage blades like metal blocks and much much cheaper than bearings.
Nice job, Stump. You covered it. The only small point I can add is make sure you have a good quality blade. Some cheap blades can have inconsistently set teeth. It will be nearly impossible to get such a blade to cut straight. Same as what you said about dull or damaged blades.
He’s way ahead of you. You might want to check out his last video where he recommends carbide-tipped bandsaw blades
Thanks for the tips! I have a Delta 14" with variable speed control and a metal cutting blade for aluminum. It works reasonably well but it drifts ever so little. Will attend to it.
It’s 10:30 at night, but because of this helpful video I’m heading to the shop to eliminate drift.
LOL.Thanks James.
Thank you your video was a great help my 1st job tomorrow
Regards
Steve UK London
Excellent information. I'm certainly going to use this information to tune my bandsaw.
Great info. Thanks. Sometimes the obvious solutions. Like adjusting the table, are the hardest to see.
Great video... nice work on the close ups ....... straight forward and concise.....😁😀😎
James, thank you so much! I've been tinkering fruitlessly trying to improve my accuracy ever since I bought my first band saw. This has been an enlightenment! Thank you, thank you.
Thanks for another great video. I’m heading to the shop now to adjust my bandsaw.
Thank you for your excellent tutorial for setting up a bandsaw. I have researched and experimented setting up my bandsaw for several years. The method you describe is exactly how I finally figured it out through trial and error. It works perfectly, and, your explanation is straight to the point, simple to understand and covers every detail. No other source, from magazines, videos or woodworking show demos comes close to your video. Excellent.
Very nice, concise explanation. Thanks Stumpy.
I have a new-ish Delta table top bandsaw and then a really old Craftsman, haven't used either. Tried to use the Delta but could NOT get the blade to stay on. I suspect the blade is toast, turns out it's an odd size that no one has in stock locally, so now I wait for a shipment to come in by mail. The Craftsman is I think a 14 inch but I have yet to even plug it in. Looks like an awesome tool.
Great explanation Stumpy!! This is my new go to reference for proper bandsaw setup.
I was following Alex Snodgrass’ procedure all this time. You setup procedure is more concise and complete, as Snodgrass doesn’t address drift correction.
I'd love to see a video on setting up cheap tools, like a Harbor Freight bandsaw, for us poors... How to make the best out of less than optimal tools. ^^
Thank you for this video! I’ve watched a couple of vids for calibration but nothing as nicely detailed as this one. You have the “analysis knack” for explaining cause and effect instead of just saying “do this.” Nicely done!!
Great video. I have used playing cards when adjusting my guide blocks
I’ve always been put off by thoughts of big wheels, tires, tension, blade guides, tracking and drift. This video makes adjustment seem much more reasonable (and feasible, even though I realize it will probably take patience and several tries.). I particularly like your simple techniques for measuring tension and thrust bearing setup. There is, of course, still the dangerous step of removing the ties from a new blade. Thanks for the video.
I saw a video (can't recall who made it) in which they simply dropped the blade on the floor, teeth uppermost, to uncoil it!
@@lafamillecarrington Stand back!
Thank you for this tutorial.
I make do with an 'el cheapo' bandsaw, but don't use it enough buying a higher end unit.
With your instructions, I should be able to minimize an otherwise terrible amount of drift.
Even a cheap saw can be made to perform better with a good tune-up :)
Thanks for another great video, James! Everybody and their brother, including some big names in woodworking, tells you to adjust the band saw fence to compensate for inevitable drift. A few tell you that drift is caused by worn or defective blades. Michael Fortune's video was the first I saw that points out that you can/should simply rotate the table so the slot(s) and fence are parallel to the blade. Duh! We expect to adjust a table saw table and fence parallel to the blade - why did so many of us not realize the same thing applies to our band saws? As you demonstrate, it works perfectly and it's easy enough, even on my 40-year-old Delta 14". Two other tips I can pass along for those with older, smaller band saws like mine: First, my 14" Delta was top heavy and annoyingly wobbly, especially on a mobile base. So, when I built a long table for my sliding crosscut miter saw a few years back, I made it the same height as my band saw table, and positioned the band saw at the end of the table. Then, I drilled a few holes in the frame and bolted my band saw to the fixed miter saw table. Now my band saw is rock solid and has 12 feet of outfeed support so I can easily rip long boards on the band saw. Second, Alex Snodgrass, in one of his band saw tune-up videos for Carter Products, suggests removing the table each time you change blades so it's easier to adjust those pesky hard-to-reach guides below the table. That turned out to be another "smack my forehead" moment for me. It turns out that removing and replacing the table makes it so much easier to adjust the lower guides that it's actually much faster than trying to do it with the table in place. As a result, I now change blades when necessary instead of forcing a cut with the wrong blade in the saw. Thanks also to the more powerful motor I picked up from Grizzly, my old Delta now performs like a much bigger saw. Of course, when I bought the ubiquitous Delta 14" band saw forty years ago, there weren't too many other options. So, I made these and other upgrades over the years trying to improve its performance. While I'm very pleased with it now, I'm sure that if I totaled it up, I spent as much as or more than I would today on a bigger, better saw like one of your Harveys. ;-) Thanks again, James, and be well!
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
You have become my favorite UA-cam woodworking channel due to your awesome and extensive tips!
You have also convinced me to invest in a good bandsaw instead of replacing my defunct table saw.
How is it in kicking up sawdust compared to a table saw? I noticed no dust in the video though I'm sure the amount it produces is basically the same.
Is this the inherent nature of the tool or is it just due to your excellent dust collection system?
A lot of very good info and having done this, my saw is now spot on. Thanks. Keep up the good videos, the info is alway appreciated. Cheers, Tom
Best video on this subject by far.
The table rotation is in my opinion the most important adjustment and should be done first.
You can't know if your table's alignment is affecting the cut until you eliminate the other factors covered by the previous steps.
Great tutorial. I'll get things all set up, then hopefully soon I can get the electrician in here to set up my 220 outlet (among other things).
Lol
I bought a 15 inch grizzly planer from a guy but, had no idea it was 220.
Got a generator thogh so I can use it. Well if I can ever get it working properly. Must have jarred it around moving it.. almost 3 years ive owned it and haven't planed 1 board
clean and understandable explanation. 10/10
Thank you James for the usual good work to put all together. Personally I have made exactly those procedures with my BS for some years but it was a headache and demanded several hours researching and arguing to get that "standard procedure". Your lesson can save lots of time for many people - as well save lots of frustration.
Good stuff James...I think that I'll start with a new blade and follow your tutorial and see if I can get this old Powermatic cutting accurately again
I have the same Harvey saw and I see you manually rotating the wheel @ the 2:57 mark. Just beware, I snapped my left index finger in half, breaking it in three places doing the same thing only slightly faster. My finger slipped ever so slightly and got caught between the wheel and the lower tensioning block. If I had caught it 1 inch higher, between the wheel and upper tension block mount, I'm afraid I would have lost the finger as there would have been no room for my finger to snap sideways and still clear the block. VERY DANGEROUS. This happened back in January and I just now got my fingernail back and starting to get feeling in the fingertip. Still love the saw :-)
That's interesting. I have never heard of such an injury. Thanks for the heads-up!