I made a full route with this style. I found you can avoid the back end of the rock blowing out by estimating where the drill bit will exit, and drilling from that side also. It's hard to line them up, but when it does, it's really good.
It's hit and miss if they detonate when you drill them 😂 but they make awesome holds, just find them with a flat side so they sit flush to the wall. SDS drill is key too, normal hammer drills will burn bits and take forever to drill!!!
@@ChrisHaileyTrainHardDiveEasy diamond bit and drill imside water (tupperware or whatever full of water, submerge the rock while drilling). Made it so only ablut 1 in 8 holds broke on me, instead of 1 in 3.
I was using a pot of water until I upped the drill size to the SDS which would chew through in seconds and didnt make a difference. the lesser hammer drill took about 10-15 mins of drilling per hole but water did make it better. ill try with the SDS and see what happens on the next lot :-)
this is cool! Reccomendation, tho it obviously isn't an issue in this video - run water over the rock while drilling. should help with chipping adn breaking of the rock.
@@ChrisHaileyTrainHardDiveEasy nice, I'm not even using my rotary hammer either, just carbide tipped masonry bits and my old cordless hammer drill. Seems to be doing great
Falling fragments when the hold breaks. Being the downside. Commercial hold manufacturers try build non-fragmenting specimens to avoid head injuries of belayers and other climbers when holds break in public gyms where usually no helmets are worn. For an operator of a public gym an important aspect, liability and such. Less of an issue/consideration if you take this rock/DIY approach in private environments.
Hammer drills and diamond bits arent exactly cheap. Cheaper than holds sure, but youre also adding 15X the weight to your wall. Idk, i tried this, it works but i am really not sure its worth the and effort. I did it while unemployed, so i had all the time in the world. Working again, id rather buy holds at this point, if im wandering around lookijg for rocks, id rsther be wandering around looking for routes.
Hammer drill I already had from bolting routes, drill bits... same... Also most people know someone with an SDS drill if they are climbers so they could borrow one, if they had to buy a drill a few drill bits $15-30 which is far cheaper that $15-30 a hold. on the weight Issues thats on point I wouldn't put more than 30-40 of these on my wall and like to keep most of them fist sized or smaller to keep the weight down. Good points but my point still stands... They are the cheapest holds on my wall :-)
Next time pick up a countersink bit for your drill so you can set those screws in flush. Good idea man looks good!
bro thats far too fancy!!! counter sinking and what not 😂 I did countersink the bolts though 🤫 don't tell anyone 😂
I made a full route with this style. I found you can avoid the back end of the rock blowing out by estimating where the drill bit will exit, and drilling from that side also. It's hard to line them up, but when it does, it's really good.
This is amazing, along with home made wooden holds this is the best idea ive ever seen praise 👏
Thanks bro, they are working great in my circuits!!!! 💯 recommend for home walls 🤙
I like the ones with the deeper cut allowing the bolt head to sit in it, so its smoother.
I think for the first round I had run out of bolts so used the 14g screws, I could probably inset them too to make them a bit less janky 😂
How did I never have this Idea!? Its actually Kind of genuis!😂🔥
It's hit and miss if they detonate when you drill them 😂 but they make awesome holds, just find them with a flat side so they sit flush to the wall. SDS drill is key too, normal hammer drills will burn bits and take forever to drill!!!
@@ChrisHaileyTrainHardDiveEasy diamond bit and drill imside water (tupperware or whatever full of water, submerge the rock while drilling). Made it so only ablut 1 in 8 holds broke on me, instead of 1 in 3.
I was using a pot of water until I upped the drill size to the SDS which would chew through in seconds and didnt make a difference. the lesser hammer drill took about 10-15 mins of drilling per hole but water did make it better. ill try with the SDS and see what happens on the next lot :-)
this is cool! Reccomendation, tho it obviously isn't an issue in this video - run water over the rock while drilling. should help with chipping adn breaking of the rock.
Honestly i have no fucking idea why this never crossed my mind it just makes sense
Just make sure your wall has a good weight rating 😂
Next time try to drill it in a bucket with water and at low speed it will make a way better hole! Nice idea!
yep yep, I did do some with the bucket of water which didn't make a difference, low speed I didn't try though 🤔
Dope
I've popped a few of these on my sons wall.
it was too easy it seemed, and makes me wonder what the downside might be.
Noice, I havn't had any issues with these bad boys so far, maybe the weight could be an issue with too many but overall im stoked with them 🤙
@@ChrisHaileyTrainHardDiveEasy nice, I'm not even using my rotary hammer either, just carbide tipped masonry bits and my old cordless hammer drill. Seems to be doing great
They will snap at some point because you place them differently in new routes but they can last a while. But they are free 😁
Falling fragments when the hold breaks. Being the downside. Commercial hold manufacturers try build non-fragmenting specimens to avoid head injuries of belayers and other climbers when holds break in public gyms where usually no helmets are worn. For an operator of a public gym an important aspect, liability and such. Less of an issue/consideration if you take this rock/DIY approach in private environments.
Is it rock solid?
Solid as a rock!!!
Hammer drills and diamond bits arent exactly cheap. Cheaper than holds sure, but youre also adding 15X the weight to your wall. Idk, i tried this, it works but i am really not sure its worth the and effort. I did it while unemployed, so i had all the time in the world. Working again, id rather buy holds at this point, if im wandering around lookijg for rocks, id rsther be wandering around looking for routes.
Hammer drill I already had from bolting routes, drill bits... same... Also most people know someone with an SDS drill if they are climbers so they could borrow one, if they had to buy a drill a few drill bits $15-30 which is far cheaper that $15-30 a hold. on the weight Issues thats on point I wouldn't put more than 30-40 of these on my wall and like to keep most of them fist sized or smaller to keep the weight down. Good points but my point still stands... They are the cheapest holds on my wall :-)