Enjoy watching your videos. You are accurate, you have a calm voice. Listening to you, I feel everything is possible. You make me feel that everything is possible.
Applying a drop of white sprit on the axle bearings will quickly desolve the hardened oil residues. Also apply oil on the axles of the small gears between the wheels. Great video. 🙂
This should be the standard for all newbies, who like me are hesitant to remove the cover😁 Excellent and informative, thank you for this valuable insight. Your channel is becoming the “Gold Standard” for Marklin😁
very nicely done looks very fiddly but was great to see you working on your engine have a good weekend enjoyed my visit to your channel all the best al 😊👏👏🙋♂️👍👍
Great ! Thank you so much. In other chanels, cleaning the motor is done with isopropanol. Done on earlier lok (in the 60s). May be the painting was different. Also to easy up blocked wheels, use liquid for oil smoke. What do you think of these ?
Hi there, Isopropyl alcohol (ipa) on metal gears is fine, on plastic gears not so much, it makes them crack over time. The Märklin service manual also discourages the use of ipa, so I follow their advice. The motor housings of the 60s where also mostly black, so it was difficult to distinguish between graphite residues and paint... As a rule, I try and use isopropanol as little as possible, only when I have no other choice. Smoke oil is "oil" (paraffin) :), SR24 for example, this also works very well to free things up, but requires additional lubrication afterwards. This is the reason why I mostly use ballistol for this type of things, saves me applying more fluids than is actually necessary. Thanks for your visit on the channel Stéphane. much appreciated.
My 3315 stays in it's box most of the time: For one reason or another, the running quality is poor, as it seems to have a power interruption issue. It doesn't completely stop of course but you can tell something is not right as there are very minor interruptions as it moves along here and there, sometimes over switches (M-track of course). On my small test layout I clean the rails very frequently and would rule that out. It was delivered to me resinified, (and from what I can tell was never run like all the locos from this auction lot items being manufactured in early 1990s), which I usually solve with LGB smoke and cleaning fluid, my go-to for loosening the old oils, general cleaning, and the like. Of course, you need lubrication after. But back to the 3315... Is there anything else I can do to try and improve the running? All my other locos (and they are all much much older) work far better. I have a 3316 literally from the same production month and it seems to be OK. Many thanks for the time you have invested in the channel, as a non-German speaker (it's on the to-do list..) the technical production, commentary, and analysis are top-notch and much appreciated. There really is no other channel like it (that I have seen) for the die-hard Marklin enthusiast and I look forward to every new installment (especially during the winter!)
Hi, Unless track was extremely dirty this can be ruled out. It sounds like some form of ground contact issue. I'd start by checking that none of the axles are sluggish, and that the driving wheels are clean. Then I'd check the leading wheels, as they often cease: they must be clean, so does their axle, as well as the leaf spring underneath the axle which doubles as a return for ground. This part of the chassis is often neglected but is critical for good ground contact on 33xx steam locos. Could be something else too, but this is where I would start. Thanks for the praises, glad you find the channel useful.
Thank you. Your video on the '3312 T5 running issues in forward' was good to review, my issue is not as severe, but like you, I found that it ran somewhat better in reverse... it also reminded me of something I did 10 years ago which was solder dedicated grounds to the copper pickups on a digital BR86, both front and rear, which improved running. I checked closely on the 3315 copper pickup and there is a spot where it sits on the bogie so I removed the bit of paint there. It also seems like there is too much paint in the way in terms of where the coupler mount mates with the chassis...However, after much tweaking, nothing has really changed. I may have to go and put in more grounding wires, but I'm 'out of steam' with this one for now.
Someone is watching the channel attentively :) Yes, it can get a bit draining sometimes. Best to step back and do nothing in such cases. Maybe you could post a quick video of the behaviour on your channel as unlisted and let me have a link via email. I could have another look and see if I can think of something else. You should not need additional grounding wires.
I recently came across some Marklin trains for the first time. I have gotten these old locomotives working and it has been a learning experience. I noticed right away that the units did not conform to the wheel spacing using an NMRA gauge. Is that normal for Marklin or were the units simply out of gauge? Secondly, does anyone have a link to the electrical set up in a Marklin power pack that allows the reversing unit to operate? I understand that a pulse of voltage above 20 v is generated. Is this an AC voltage or a DC voltage like in a capacitance discharge setup? Thanks.
Hi, Marklin wasn't built to NMRA standards, actually I doubt they even existed when the H0 norm was adopted by Märklin. The spacing of the wheels is set at the factory based on the H0 Marklin track system. This spacing is fixed and cannot be adjusted as the wheels in a wheelset are not isolated from each other. We don't need to worry about this type of things in a Märklin set-up. The "power pack" is a tranformer, it converts AC main voltage to to 2 different secondary AC voltages. The first one is variable between 4V and 16v AC, this is the circuit used by the throttle. The second voltage is 24V AC, which is applied to the track when the throttle is put to reverse. There is no capacitor at play. The marklin motors in older types of locomotives are universal motors, so they would word with DC.
@@The3rdRail Thanks for getting back to me. I had a suspicion that Marklin did not follow the NMRA wheetset gauge. I had been able to readjust the gauge and set the ends of the axle with cyanoacrylate. I originally tested and ran the locomotives off of a lionel ac transformer, but I was told by someone else that they would run off of DC which they did. I made a test track using HO flex and cemented a center rail in place. I was toying with the idea of making a loop of track with the outside rails powered and a catenary for the overhead pickup, just as an experiment. Since I did not have a Marklin transformer, I could get the reverse mechanism to operate by providing a higher AC voltage. Since the locomotives ran with DC and I am aware that a capacitance discharge system might operate the reversing solenoid without providing a continuous current and possibly burning out the solenoid, I may play with that also. The Marklin trains are an interesting piece of model train equiptment.
The old MArklin 6600 controller used a capacitor for the reverse pulse. The mechanical reversers should be able to handle something like a CDU as long as the current remains in the area of 1A, it is the locomotives equipped with decoders (especially the early types used by Märklin in the late 80s-early 90s) that will have problems with such a set-up. You are very brave with you gauge adjustments, I wouldn't go near that, because the glue losens over time and you end up having to constantly re adjust in my experience with broken models I tried to fix in the past. You are also substantially reducing (understatement...) the resale value of your models doing this, but that is your choice...
You also have a 2 rail option by the way, could save you the hassle of convertiing tracks and trying to make power supplies. Marklin produced 2 rail versions of its old models under the Hamo brand. They are easy to pick-up and usually cheaper than the equivalent Märklin model. They then acquired TRIX, and have been producing 2 rail versions of most of their models under this brand. In both cases the models are identical cosmetically.
Enjoy watching your videos. You are accurate, you have a calm voice. Listening to you, I feel everything is possible. You make me feel that everything is possible.
Wow, thank you! You are too kind, Sir!
Applying a drop of white sprit on the axle bearings will quickly desolve the hardened oil residues. Also apply oil on the axles of the small gears between the wheels. Great video. 🙂
I like the red paint on my chassis too much to use white spirit 😉 If you don't mind about this, sure that could work too... Thanks for the visit!
This should be the standard for all newbies, who like me are hesitant to remove the cover😁 Excellent and informative, thank you for this valuable insight. Your channel is becoming the “Gold Standard” for Marklin😁
You are too kind, Sir! Many thanks, glad this is of use to someone.
Very nice 3315👍 enjoyed watching your video
Thank you very much!
Super video again. Thumps up and keep it up.
Greetings Andre. 😃😃🙋♂️🙋♂️👍👍👍
Many thanks for the compliment, glad you enjoyed it. Take care
very nicely done looks very fiddly but was great to see you working on your engine have a good weekend enjoyed my visit to your channel all the best al 😊👏👏🙋♂️👍👍
Thanks a lot, have a good weekend!
a great video with nice explanations, well solved, greetings Kai
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for the compliment. Take care.
Hello ! Video good👍👍👍Thank. You.....🚂👮✋
Thanks very much!
Great ! Thank you so much. In other chanels, cleaning the motor is done with isopropanol. Done on earlier lok (in the 60s). May be the painting was different. Also to easy up blocked wheels, use liquid for oil smoke. What do you think of these ?
Hi there,
Isopropyl alcohol (ipa) on metal gears is fine, on plastic gears not so much, it makes them crack over time. The Märklin service manual also discourages the use of ipa, so I follow their advice. The motor housings of the 60s where also mostly black, so it was difficult to distinguish between graphite residues and paint... As a rule, I try and use isopropanol as little as possible, only when I have no other choice.
Smoke oil is "oil" (paraffin) :), SR24 for example, this also works very well to free things up, but requires additional lubrication afterwards. This is the reason why I mostly use ballistol for this type of things, saves me applying more fluids than is actually necessary.
Thanks for your visit on the channel Stéphane. much appreciated.
My 3315 stays in it's box most of the time: For one reason or another, the running quality is poor, as it seems to have a power interruption issue. It doesn't completely stop of course but you can tell something is not right as there are very minor interruptions as it moves along here and there, sometimes over switches (M-track of course). On my small test layout I clean the rails very frequently and would rule that out. It was delivered to me resinified, (and from what I can tell was never run like all the locos from this auction lot items being manufactured in early 1990s), which I usually solve with LGB smoke and cleaning fluid, my go-to for loosening the old oils, general cleaning, and the like. Of course, you need lubrication after. But back to the 3315... Is there anything else I can do to try and improve the running? All my other locos (and they are all much much older) work far better. I have a 3316 literally from the same production month and it seems to be OK. Many thanks for the time you have invested in the channel, as a non-German speaker (it's on the to-do list..) the technical production, commentary, and analysis are top-notch and much appreciated. There really is no other channel like it (that I have seen) for the die-hard Marklin enthusiast and I look forward to every new installment (especially during the winter!)
Hi,
Unless track was extremely dirty this can be ruled out. It sounds like some form of ground contact issue. I'd start by checking that none of the axles are sluggish, and that the driving wheels are clean. Then I'd check the leading wheels, as they often cease: they must be clean, so does their axle, as well as the leaf spring underneath the axle which doubles as a return for ground. This part of the chassis is often neglected but is critical for good ground contact on 33xx steam locos.
Could be something else too, but this is where I would start.
Thanks for the praises, glad you find the channel useful.
Thank you. Your video on the '3312 T5 running issues in forward' was good to review, my issue is not as severe, but like you, I found that it ran somewhat better in reverse... it also reminded me of something I did 10 years ago which was solder dedicated grounds to the copper pickups on a digital BR86, both front and rear, which improved running. I checked closely on the 3315 copper pickup and there is a spot where it sits on the bogie so I removed the bit of paint there. It also seems like there is too much paint in the way in terms of where the coupler mount mates with the chassis...However, after much tweaking, nothing has really changed. I may have to go and put in more grounding wires, but I'm 'out of steam' with this one for now.
Someone is watching the channel attentively :) Yes, it can get a bit draining sometimes. Best to step back and do nothing in such cases. Maybe you could post a quick video of the behaviour on your channel as unlisted and let me have a link via email. I could have another look and see if I can think of something else. You should not need additional grounding wires.
nice no smoke unit?
Thanks, smoke is not installed on this one but it is prepped for one.
I recently came across some Marklin trains for the first time. I have gotten these old locomotives working and it has been a learning experience. I noticed right away that the units did not conform to the wheel spacing using an NMRA gauge. Is that normal for Marklin or were the units simply out of gauge? Secondly, does anyone have a link to the electrical set up in a Marklin power pack that allows the reversing unit to operate? I understand that a pulse of voltage above 20 v is generated. Is this an AC voltage or a DC voltage like in a capacitance discharge setup? Thanks.
Hi, Marklin wasn't built to NMRA standards, actually I doubt they even existed when the H0 norm was adopted by Märklin. The spacing of the wheels is set at the factory based on the H0 Marklin track system. This spacing is fixed and cannot be adjusted as the wheels in a wheelset are not isolated from each other. We don't need to worry about this type of things in a Märklin set-up.
The "power pack" is a tranformer, it converts AC main voltage to to 2 different secondary AC voltages. The first one is variable between 4V and 16v AC, this is the circuit used by the throttle. The second voltage is 24V AC, which is applied to the track when the throttle is put to reverse. There is no capacitor at play. The marklin motors in older types of locomotives are universal motors, so they would word with DC.
@@The3rdRail Thanks for getting back to me. I had a suspicion that Marklin did not follow the NMRA wheetset gauge. I had been able to readjust the gauge and set the ends of the axle with cyanoacrylate. I originally tested and ran the locomotives off of a lionel ac transformer, but I was told by someone else that they would run off of DC which they did. I made a test track using HO flex and cemented a center rail in place. I was toying with the idea of making a loop of track with the outside rails powered and a catenary for the overhead pickup, just as an experiment. Since I did not have a Marklin transformer, I could get the reverse mechanism to operate by providing a higher AC voltage. Since the locomotives ran with DC and I am aware that a capacitance discharge system might operate the reversing solenoid without providing a continuous current and possibly burning out the solenoid, I may play with that also. The Marklin trains are an interesting piece of model train equiptment.
The old MArklin 6600 controller used a capacitor for the reverse pulse. The mechanical reversers should be able to handle something like a CDU as long as the current remains in the area of 1A, it is the locomotives equipped with decoders (especially the early types used by Märklin in the late 80s-early 90s) that will have problems with such a set-up. You are very brave with you gauge adjustments, I wouldn't go near that, because the glue losens over time and you end up having to constantly re adjust in my experience with broken models I tried to fix in the past. You are also substantially reducing (understatement...) the resale value of your models doing this, but that is your choice...
You also have a 2 rail option by the way, could save you the hassle of convertiing tracks and trying to make power supplies. Marklin produced 2 rail versions of its old models under the Hamo brand. They are easy to pick-up and usually cheaper than the equivalent Märklin model. They then acquired TRIX, and have been producing 2 rail versions of most of their models under this brand. In both cases the models are identical cosmetically.
@@The3rdRail Yes, I know about the 2 rail option. I just like to be creative at times.