@@mysfiring That's what I was thinking! The precious plastics machines are still very much _industrial equipment_ , I think taking the _industrial_ part away should theoretically slash 90% of the costs 😃😃
Man I am so glad I discovered your channel and I wish you would enjoy this project as much as I enjoy it. It is not just another 3d printer build. It is freaking phenomenal and so different from anything else I came across. I juat love the chaalenge, solving approach, plan, philosophy and reasoning behind the build. Btw, those rollers - damn that impessed me.
I came to enjoy it more as time went on, now I'm really glad I didn't abandon it because people in the 3D printing community are so much nicer and constructive with feedback than the comments I had before 😅
Hi Ben! Great post! Precision is the master when you deal with CNCs. Those plastic rollers are as fabulous as the tool you used. I knew that you're going to post something, you stopped twitting...😜
One suggestion - maybe for the next project. You can use two bearings per each end, and have their axis at 90 degrees one from the other. This would avoid having to build the plastic sleeves. Now I know what you'll say, that's two bearings to do the job of one, but on the other hand, they won't wear out like plastic does.
Actually, that's exactly what my design for the laser cutter is! Or rather was, that is, until I reconsidered my life choices and decided that, having to mount 8 bearings perpendicular to each other with adjustable tension for each carriage assembly, is unreasonably complex to build without having a CNC already at my disposal to fabricate more repeatable accurate parts. So now I'm redesigning most of the gantry to run on regular W-style roller bearings that use 2 balls bearings each :'( Using the tiny 10mm bearings I had planned to use would've result in lots of microscopic parts that are very hard to make IRL - something easy to loose track of when working in CAD where I can just zoom in...
have you noticed the mini bearings?? as well as being inaccurate as I told you in the previous video, (the smaller they are the more inaccurate they are, or rather they are not suitable for this purpose)... they do not have a 90° angle (minute 4:26)... you have to use larger bearings large and more precise quids but with a double V. The double W ones have the external angles at 90°!!
I am not stupid. I have reasons for doing things the way I do them even if I don't mention it in the video. The goal of this project was not to copy an Ender 3, nor to build the best 3D printer in the world; but rather to build a reasonably large 3D printer on the extremely low budget of $50 using more accessible parts than anyone has before. If I wanted to repeat what everyone else has already done I would do so. But thanks for boosting engagement with all the comments.
Thanks! I do plan to make it print finishing touches for itself, like an air duct for the parts cooling fan and stuff. The only parts I'll really replace with 3D printed ones I think are the wooden pulleys driving the Z-axis, for everything else the accuracy I can achieve with wood is no worse than what could come off the machine...
Depending on the quality I think worse than what I'm going with... Especially bulky since there's the whole second half of the rail that would be attached to, and move with the X-carriage. Plus I don't have any laying around atm...
@@ChronicMechatronic you used the outside of the aluminum profile, as you noticed the bearing is not 90 degrees. in my cnc project i used the internal part of the profile, like this: , the carriages put pressure on the bearings, not the other way around. the OUTSIDE of the bearing W is 90°
@@wwdiablos Who cares if the 90° is on the inside or outside the bearings!? Using V-groove bearings on the outside of a 90° rail wasn't even my invention, if you can't give a technical explanation of why running W-bearings inside a groove rather than V-bearings on an edge would be advantageous, I don't care man. Your solution isn't the only possible way to build a CNC, so I make mine the way I want!
(FR) Salut Ben! Très intéressant et un peu frustrant parce que 15 minutes ça fait un peu court. Toujours ton rythme soutenu, captivant. Récupérer le moteur pour en faire une toure, est génial. Je suis pleinement d'accord avec toi: Imprimer 3D n'est pas toujours justifié, surtout parce que leur tenue mécanique (moins pleine que tes roulettes artisanales) n'est pas du tout adaptée à un usage répétitif. Tu as suggéré l'usage de pièces injectées qui seraient assurément une solution comparable en qualité à ton usinage. Mais encore faudrait-il que le nombre "industriel" puisse se justifier... Ton imprimante a vraiment quelque chose de beau. Encore une fois avec une rigueur et un attachement aux détails comme les... Japonais. J'ai quand même une suggestion pour avoir fait comme toi des pièces en bouchons plastiques recyclés (de bouteilles de 3l d'eau) avec le canon d'air chaud: Si tu mets une assiette en porcelaine sur un feu assez doux, la fusion se fait de deux côtés et plus rapidement. Voilà! J'ai hâte d'en voir la suite. Franchement instructif et captivant. Merci Ben.
Salut Philibert! Sorry the video ended up so short! I agree 15 minutes isn't much, but considering I'm always aiming for 10-12 minutes and they reliably end up between 15 and 20 minutes long we're still in luck! It's become a standing joke in my family, I always say I'll make the next video a short one and weeks later I'm like: "weeell now I'm at minute 14, guess it won't be short anymore now..." 😂 I'll try your suggestion for melting bottle caps when I make the rollers for the laser engraver, thanks!
Anyone want to see me build a plastic shredder and extrusion machine to turn plastic waste into 3D filament and other stuff?
Yes! A Chronic Mechatronic take on the (already fairly DIY, but unfortunately expensive) Precious Plastics suite of machines would be incredible!
@@mysfiring That's what I was thinking! The precious plastics machines are still very much _industrial equipment_ , I think taking the _industrial_ part away should theoretically slash 90% of the costs 😃😃
Yess brother
1st finish the printer
Yeah, dude! ~
and hope more open source and affordable than that from Action Box 🙏🏻
You are probably the most resourceful and productive person I've ever seen here.
You have clearly demonstrated, that given enough determination, time and resourcefulness, that 99% of whiny excuses are eliminated.
This. People usually just just don't want to put in the effort 👍
Whether my approach is reasonable is a different story though 😂
I am TOTALLY impressed with making the plastic rollers!! TOTALLY!
😅
Man I am so glad I discovered your channel and I wish you would enjoy this project as much as I enjoy it. It is not just another 3d printer build. It is freaking phenomenal and so different from anything else I came across. I juat love the chaalenge, solving approach, plan, philosophy and reasoning behind the build.
Btw, those rollers - damn that impessed me.
I came to enjoy it more as time went on, now I'm really glad I didn't abandon it because people in the 3D printing community are so much nicer and constructive with feedback than the comments I had before 😅
I love the idea of using recycled plastic bottle caps to make the v-groove sleeves!
Found your channel because I wanted to DIY soldering tips, I'm looking forward to the day your channel gets the growth spurt it deserves
Thanks!
cool idea with the heat-gun 😁👌🏻🏅
Hi Ben! Great post! Precision is the master when you deal with CNCs. Those plastic rollers are as fabulous as the tool you used. I knew that you're going to post something, you stopped twitting...😜
I leave you the tenth like, the passion and commitment you put into it is to be appreciated!
Thanks 😃
Easy, practical and good model. Thank you for the idea
WOW! this is genius! improvisation!
U are gonna be a real Ingenier...
One suggestion - maybe for the next project. You can use two bearings per each end, and have their axis at 90 degrees one from the other. This would avoid having to build the plastic sleeves. Now I know what you'll say, that's two bearings to do the job of one, but on the other hand, they won't wear out like plastic does.
Actually, that's exactly what my design for the laser cutter is! Or rather was, that is, until I reconsidered my life choices and decided that, having to mount 8 bearings perpendicular to each other with adjustable tension for each carriage assembly, is unreasonably complex to build without having a CNC already at my disposal to fabricate more repeatable accurate parts. So now I'm redesigning most of the gantry to run on regular W-style roller bearings that use 2 balls bearings each :'(
Using the tiny 10mm bearings I had planned to use would've result in lots of microscopic parts that are very hard to make IRL - something easy to loose track of when working in CAD where I can just zoom in...
Watch a few slingshot videos where they machine hdpe into slings. They make large blocks then press them with jacks to make uniform.
great job my brother I hope you doing this faster
As fast as I can, like I said there's a lot more work involved off camera than you ever see in the video. I'm just a guy in his workshop man...
@@ChronicMechatronic if you can film the smole thing you do and share it in story short that will be great
have you noticed the mini bearings?? as well as being inaccurate as I told you in the previous video, (the smaller they are the more inaccurate they are, or rather they are not suitable for this purpose)... they do not have a 90° angle (minute 4:26)... you have to use larger bearings large and more precise quids but with a double V. The double W ones have the external angles at 90°!!
I am not stupid. I have reasons for doing things the way I do them even if I don't mention it in the video. The goal of this project was not to copy an Ender 3, nor to build the best 3D printer in the world; but rather to build a reasonably large 3D printer on the extremely low budget of $50 using more accessible parts than anyone has before. If I wanted to repeat what everyone else has already done I would do so. But thanks for boosting engagement with all the comments.
Great work!
Thanks!
BTW there'll be a surprise in the next one! February 14th :)
Great job!
Do you plan to print better precise parts after the printer is done?
Thanks! I do plan to make it print finishing touches for itself, like an air duct for the parts cooling fan and stuff. The only parts I'll really replace with 3D printed ones I think are the wooden pulleys driving the Z-axis, for everything else the accuracy I can achieve with wood is no worse than what could come off the machine...
How would it be if you use drawer sliders for x axis?
Depending on the quality I think worse than what I'm going with... Especially bulky since there's the whole second half of the rail that would be attached to, and move with the X-carriage. Plus I don't have any laying around atm...
the outer part of the W-bearing must not go on the back of the profile but on the hollow part!!
Why?
@@ChronicMechatronic you used the outside of the aluminum profile, as you noticed the bearing is not 90 degrees. in my cnc project i used the internal part of the profile, like this:
, the carriages put pressure on the bearings, not the other way around. the OUTSIDE of the bearing W is 90°
@@wwdiablos Who cares if the 90° is on the inside or outside the bearings!? Using V-groove bearings on the outside of a 90° rail wasn't even my invention, if you can't give a technical explanation of why running W-bearings inside a groove rather than V-bearings on an edge would be advantageous, I don't care man. Your solution isn't the only possible way to build a CNC, so I make mine the way I want!
(FR) Salut Ben! Très intéressant et un peu frustrant parce que 15 minutes ça fait un peu court. Toujours ton rythme soutenu, captivant. Récupérer le moteur pour en faire une toure, est génial. Je suis pleinement d'accord avec toi: Imprimer 3D n'est pas toujours justifié, surtout parce que leur tenue mécanique (moins pleine que tes roulettes artisanales) n'est pas du tout adaptée à un usage répétitif. Tu as suggéré l'usage de pièces injectées qui seraient assurément une solution comparable en qualité à ton usinage. Mais encore faudrait-il que le nombre "industriel" puisse se justifier...
Ton imprimante a vraiment quelque chose de beau. Encore une fois avec une rigueur et un attachement aux détails comme les... Japonais.
J'ai quand même une suggestion pour avoir fait comme toi des pièces en bouchons plastiques recyclés (de bouteilles de 3l d'eau) avec le canon d'air chaud: Si tu mets une assiette en porcelaine sur un feu assez doux, la fusion se fait de deux côtés et plus rapidement. Voilà! J'ai hâte d'en voir la suite. Franchement instructif et captivant. Merci Ben.
Salut Philibert! Sorry the video ended up so short! I agree 15 minutes isn't much, but considering I'm always aiming for 10-12 minutes and they reliably end up between 15 and 20 minutes long we're still in luck! It's become a standing joke in my family, I always say I'll make the next video a short one and weeks later I'm like: "weeell now I'm at minute 14, guess it won't be short anymore now..." 😂
I'll try your suggestion for melting bottle caps when I make the rollers for the laser engraver, thanks!
👍👍👍
you are amazing🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆🌟🔥
Haha thanks!
Woah i thought they where bought offline
Nope :)
😁
Here a relatable boy