Engine Removal of T1N Sprinter
Вставка
- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- This is an introduction video, not a complete How-To. Hopefully this will make the prospect of removing your engine less intimidating. It's all just nuts and bolts with a few wires and hoses to make it look scary. An engine hoist, also called cherry picker, can be bought locally for about $100 used. They don't roll in sand so I use a tractor.
Support from viewers like you through Patreon Membership makes these videos possible. If you enjoy and benefit from our videos please join today. Membership has benefits including early access to new videos, one on one assistance, and my pledge to help you save double the cost of membership. Choose your membership level here:
floridavanman....
Some of our favorite products can be found as Amazon Affiliate Links at:
floridavanman....
Florida Van Man Sticker: www.redbubble....
T1N Thing Sticker: www.redbubble....
Florida Van Man Classic Shirt: www.redbubble....
T1N Thing Shirt: www.redbubble....
Trusted Source for major Engine Parts: www.millionmil... - Авто та транспорт
You made that look alot easier than it probably is. Hoping to swap engines on mine at some point as the oil filler cap when unscrewed is forced off due to what I expect is a blown piston ring, also engine has done 250k miles now and has not been well maintained over the yrs.
Good quick & dirty video- these help, added to my "Sprinter" playlist for future reference, although I hope my 322,000 mile long/high T1N won't be needing this for a while.
Thank you for your videos Bill, your videos keep our vans rolling
Sweet Its Sprinter Porn... Gotta love a motor extraction. Makes me wanna go play in the driveway. My list grows if I dont.
Hmmmmm I pulled my OM612 out without removing the whole air handler case (only the removable cabin filter part) & with the whole engine intake intact. I did flip the boom over on the cherry picker so that the chain exits from the top, that allowed an extremely short interface from boom to engine. Came right out, new/used engine right back in, zero damage. Also split the engine/trans in situ, converter came out with the engine due to that incredibly tight alignment nub on the end. I dressed that down with emory cloth & anti-sieze for the next time (yeah right 😂). Converter bolts no fun tho, you better be good working by feel. IMO probably worst part of the whole job..
Wasn't the easiest motor swap I ever did but definitely not the hardest. If i can do it with the monster 612 intake & HVAC air box in place, anyone can do it!
Hi FVM,
I've been watching your videos for a while now. Great content! Just hit the notification bell. Video recommendations: Auxillary battery setups... my T1N seems to have an 'in-factory' set up available to add a second battery... not sure if I need an isolator switch with it or if I can just throw a second battery on the terminals and use it to jump start my main battery?
Also, you seem to know your way around this vehicle... how about a full walk through/diagram of what is happening under the hood in sequence from the turn of the key to flooring the gas pedal.
I have a video detailing my "air conditioning without solar" van battery setup. It has the factory option battery isolator and I've added a dash switch in the trigger wire so I can disable the automatic connecting when my house-battery is full.
I'll try to get more overview videos coming up.
I have a question about the clutch pedal. I disconnected the hydraulic line to the transmission. Now i can't get the clutch to disengage. Is there any easy way to bleed the system? Thanks for your support
I'm hoping someone can help with this. Sprinters in the states all have NAG1 auto transmission so I don't know anything about the clutch on manual shifters.
Getting ready to do this on a 2005 where injector 1 & 2 keep getting the black death, are there any gotchas to leaving the transmission in the van (can the triangles just be loosened and left in place with a support under the transmission in that case)? Or, is this really a pull the transmission and swap it out of the vehicle case?
If you don't have a lift, separating the transmission is just a bear in the van. Much easier to pull the pair together. But hold on... are you replacing the engine because the front two injectors keep leaking? We can definitely fix that in the van! Worst case scenario you'll need a seat cutter and experienced help. DO not try seat cutter unsupervised!!! Actually, that may be why the injectors are repeatedly leaking but we can still fix this. We can polish the injector seats and with a few more tips ensure the next set of seals lasts.
@@FloridaVanMan I'm a pretty experienced mechanic (on aircraft and gas engines, medium experience in diesels albeit older injection pump diesels). That isn't to say I'd try the seat cutter, just I know where my limitations are. I didn't replace the injectors in the van personally, it's on its fourth sprinter shop to fix this issue - the dealer that has it right now stripped the bottom centimeter of threads from the injector bolt (left in the hole) and wants close to $2k to fix the injector and the damage. So now I'm in the position of either just towing it home (they've had it three weeks and they're not communicating anything to me, just tallying the charges) and doing that work on my own, replacing the entire head, or replacing the entire engine. I've found some so called strong runners for ~$4k so the whole engine is appealing (I've engine swapped some older trucks, no experience with automatic transmissions), I'm not sure replacing the head would fix my issue either and I understand it's a risky operation. This came up because I'm having a lot of other codes too, high fuel rail pressure, low fuel rail pressure, bad MAF, EGR control circuit (EGR was frozen, was replaced within the last couple of months), and crankshaft position sensor. The codes seem like a wiring harness short somewhere but this is shy of the black plague.
I would bring it to you in a hot minute were it not for me being in central oregon. Unless you do travel work or have some mode of me getting it to you.
@@hoggmann7217 "We can fix this" means you do the fixin' while I sit here in Florida, on a couch giving instructions. Ha! Sorry I wasn't more transparent about that. Thread holes can be fixed better than new. I have a video on making a scrub tool that will polish those seats with patience and power tools. Another video details fixing the threaded holes with steel inserts. A few Saturdays and a few hundred bucks (at MOST) on a few tools can save you a few thousand dollars easily. Replacing the head isn't that risky and a little easier than replacing the engine. Your rail pressure codes can be tracked down to a fuel component. MAF and EGR can be tested at home, under the hood.
@@FloridaVanMan no worries. Dealership is saying they want to drill the hole larger and use a larger bolt (red flag to me). Is the insert a helicoil or something else? I'll take a look at doing this myself then, at the very least I still have the other two options for recourse. You've already saved me more than a few hundred bucks with these videos. The only part in the fuel circuit that hasn't been replaced is the fuel rail itself, which may need cleaning. When the EGR code surfaced I removed the EGR (it was seized and the "fan" bit was stuck open even after a lot of scrubbing and soaking). New EGR is functioning but I think there's a lot of soot that's accumulated either in the rail or going to the rail. The EGR and MAF are both new within a month which is why I'm suspecting a wiring gremlin. Okay, off to find your scrub tool. Again, much appreciated on all these videos and your replies!
@@hoggmann7217 Larger bolt is NOT a reasonable option. These are stretch-to-yield injector hold down bolt and there is no way a larger bolt will yield* the same. This video shows the larger insert. It is not a little hell-ish-coil or tiny-time-sert. This is the real deal and worth every penny of the price, $25 each. www.ebay.com/itm/153882618373?itmmeta=01HWXZ15PTSMWSC16GB3VTXX45&hash=item23d41e6a05:g:1j0AAOSwONVakgMB&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0KlISRfBMNTkvarYJZpJV1vav5O%2B7KEd5MNTS4BGdkV62i2hvu9qKxdv8XT%2FqaM0ECaRE56PIdpmFjEGv%2BZxH6KbYEBRvGFcwpWGMVwG20h1BY%2F3YY0asi1r4mwqSmmUqlI0eQCjlx8YWV6YsEYFNJCwZ0c%2FaTVUjXBrSKO2zy7JOpP1lRxRKrAENpLv0Nuo7zGmLhtVt7GJD9gsqLl93LEioZVF3Y5lWxDBAUsFkDf6GbPcrB5WfSCyuOvHEHkNvpX3iRGEqXABkHGXISPt2Fo%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8rbhL_nYw
Or the single insert kit with drill & tap, www.ebay.com/itm/184235847101?itmmeta=01HWXZ15PT42H8DSC13Q13NPRN&hash=item2ae54fedbd:g:ZI4AAOSwa2ZakgA6&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8JKElB6Ylqso0MeMarjY52dRBcTf6EGuzBLUuFIf9PFxnRZIRRwE%2FnjdQANEty8M6J6JKRJ6hLQ220N2NI8lN%2BbElBogyfID%2FOHtdhuL3p74mO7W0%2Fd7EPQ%2Bx7NbxtIxg%2B3pHqbJZfbzLbl2D6QwGOCT7ORBHDZdKacPGMhkicFeO5V84QR93vnYUlNHGK%2F7DpFxQ9k9H%2B5E6bDT60xPFa6ZV3ZQOaw37byIsrJ1%2FOsebfJCpVpYkaeeJpHATwARjEicmYfVKokGUp9tk1a%2BERp7nQKU92HQA20V38rZDFPTzzpVfmQoWn%2Bjt3Pr3NdfEg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMytuEv-dj
Do you know how much the engine and transmission weigh together?
The engine is just under 500 pounds with oil in it and the transmission must be about 125 pounds, so 700-750 total.
@@FloridaVanMan thanks.