I have been loading ammunition for nearly 40 years, I load a lot of , and many different cartridges. I can tell you that the gentlemen in this video absolutely know what they are talking about and they are absolutely correct in everything they’ve said. LISTEN TO THEM ! Especially the advice to wear safety glasses . During 40 years of reloading, I have had two primers go off in the press, and my glasses saved my eyes both times. Great video guys. You’re an asset to the firearms community !
You’re Welcome, Thanks for everything you do and the honest, factual ,concise videos you publish. I hope our younger less experienced folks out there will have the ears to hear and the eyes to see and understand the knowledge you give them. Keep your powder dry !
Reloading is about developing good & safe habits for each step. Check & double check each operation. If you think something is wrong, it is. Repair, reset & regroup. Accuracy is addicting & reloading is therapeutic & relaxing. You let every other thought or concern go & you laser focus on the task at hand. Reloading has brought me 32 years of joy & a great sense of accomplishment. I still get excited to come home after work & reload.
Before I started reloading I contacted Brownells techs for advice. Kasey replied with some great suggestions. I spent a bunch of money, Now I have enough ammo and supplies for years. Sometimes I wished I lived closer to Brownells, but an hour and ten minute drive ain't bad. What I've learned in 3,500 rounds. While a lot of powder manufacturers have an online site for load data, the manual contains chapters of other important information. Read them before you start, and then reread them after you have a handle on things. Get a primer pocket swager. There's a lot of crimped primer pocket brass out there. Trying to stuff a primer into crimped hole can detonate a primmer. If you are considering RELOADING to SAVE MONEY, know this, your first round may cost easily a thousand dollars for press, dies, scale, powder measure, book, caliper, trimmer, deburrer, reamer/swager, locking rings, cleaning equipment and materials, lighting, bench, powder, primers and bullets. And it can be very time consuming. With a single stage press I can make some nice cheap 9mm ammo at a rate of a hundred rounds in 1.5 hours with a material cost of under 20 cents a round. This time includes, time spent on set up, take down and clean up. It took me a few thousand rounds to pay off my equipment compared to buying ammo off the shelf. That's a lot of evenings sitting at the reloading bench. And if include the time scavenging brass, sorting brass and searching for in stock materials, add many more hours. For a while it was look online an hour a week for MONTHS at a time. Work in a comfortable well lit area; this minimizes the chance for mistakes. And a solid bench is good for consistency. There is a case length specification with minimum and maximum, a minimum cartridge length based on powder and bullet and a maximum cartridge length based on the caliber. Know them all, or at least have them written down. SAAMI website has great pdf’s for this info. Some reloading books do not contain the minimum case length. ALWAYS follow the instructions for die set up and the recipe for powder weight and overall length. Steel and aluminum cases are not reloadable, but can be recycled as metal. Brass and nickel plated brass is reloadable. There's a couple types of primers, Boxer and Berdan. Boxer primers have once center hole on the inside of the case. These can be reloaded. Berdan has two holes inside the case and cannot be reloaded. If you run them through a sizing or decapping die you can break the decapping pin. There are different sizes and powers of primers, small pistol, large pistol, small rifle, large rifle, and then there's match, magnum, and so on. Know what you need and buy that. Some sizing dies have carbide inserts, this allows you to not have to lube your case before sizing. If you do not have carbide inserts you should lube the cases because they may get stuck in the dies. After resizing a lubed case you need to either wipe or wash off the lube. If you wash then you have to re-dry. If you lube cases, some of that lube will cake up in the die eventually. Clean it out. Some ammo can be loaded with cast lead or plated or coated ammo. It is cheaper. But if you are using mixed manufacturer brass to load it your case length and therefore crimp may vary. This crimp variation can lead to the coating coming off and your barrel being leaded or exceptionally high pressure which can cause damage or injury. Therefore, some of us trim our cases to a uniform length before loading these bullets. A great source of information is The Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute (SAAMI) You can find detailed cartridge drawings including tolerances, storage recommendations, and other good info there. Check it out. There's also questions like can I use this die for that load? 380 cannot be reloaded with 9mm dies. While they look close except for the length, they taper differently. Don't bother trying. 38 special can be reloaded with some 357 magnum dies.
I believe one of the most effective safety devices is the loading tray where you can scan all the casings to ensure all are filled to the same level. This makes spotting a double charge very easy since they are stacked close together and are all on the same level
Case prep is time consuming and drawn out. I do my case prep ahead of time. Then those fully prepped cases are waiting for me the day I'm ready to load that caliber. I'm only thinking about seating the primer, getting my powder charge right and C.O.L. of the loaded round. That is enough things to keep straight for one loading session. I always enjoy your videos. Good information every time! Thanks.
My Grandad was really into reloading before he passed away. Been some years since, but I have some of his reloading equipment and want to get into it. Thanks for the video.
Germaxicus I have some nephews that won't take the time for me to show them reloading so when I am gone they will be in the same boat you are if they want to load but more than likely they will sell off my reloading gear. I have one nephew that has his own kit I bought for him as a gift many years ago and he knows how but if he still loads or not I don't know.
@@rbm6184 that's too bad your nephews aren't interested. I'm the only person I know reloading to be honest. I have setup now with my Grandad's old equipment (RCBS built like a tank!). I find the whole process of reloading to be quite relaxing. Plus everytime I sit down I'm reminded of my Grandad
@@germaxicus6670 I can recall back in the 80s when I was competition match shooting at a gun club and going through a lot of ammo so I started reloading. Small scale hand loading at first. Later a small prefab lawn mower shed with an electrical line running to it out in the backyard. I had a shop light, vibratory tumbler, fan to keep cool, and stereo music while I loaded on the loading bench. It was relaxing. Way out back I had a big garbage pit with a big sand berm I used to test hand loads into. A few of us from my job were in the club also and they reloaded also. Those were the days.
Wow that’s a shame that your grandkids wont be in to it. I can relate 100% to you, I grew up with my dad reloading black powder for competition matches. Helping him cast bullets and reload the whole round. I just got a single stage rock chucker rcbs to start my collection. I’m 23 right now so we will see where it goes
GOOD IDEAS!!!! When I Start A Reloading Session.I have already let My Wife know that I'm going to be reloading,She Knows I'm not to be disturbed,unless the House is on Fire or There's Some MAJOR DISASTER COMING OUR WAY!!!!! THE DOOR IS LOCKED,PHONES TURNED OFF AND UNPLUGGED IN MY RELOADING ROOM,NO TV OR RADIO!!!!! I ALWAYS DO THIS EVEN FOR LOADS THAT IV'E BEEN LOADING FOR YEARS!!!!! I TAKE MY RELOADING VERY SERIOUS.IV'E NEVER HAD A SERIOUS PROBLEM WITH MY RELOADS!!! I LEARNED HOW TO RELOAD FROM MY GRANDFATHER,BACK IN THE 60'S. Grandpa bought me my first 22 when I was 6 Years Old.
Jesus, it’s reloading, not building a nuclear core. Stay away from ignition and you’ll be fine. Unless you just want a break from the old lady so that’s what u tell her haha.
Just wanted to give you guys a shout out for being a great company. This has nothing to do with reloading but you guys always put out excellent videos, you have excellent customer service on the retail side of your company and you carry all the little spare parts that anyone would need for whatever firearm they have (especially Colt AR parts).out of the dozens of orders I have placed with you guys over the last two or three years, you guys have never failed me once. Thank you for staying true to your core values that you had when you started as a company way back when, that's a rarity these days
Especially if you’re new to reloading or It’s been awhile since you’ve reloaded ammo, make sure that you don’t just turn to the page with your caliber and start reloading. Read all of that “junk” in the beginning of the Manual.
Good formation. Knowledge is key to reloading. I always recommend that a new reloader go ahead and purchase a reloading book first, and start reading it. Thanks for the information fellas. Echo
Caleb takes so much flak! However, you rarely hear of a young buck named Caleb who lubes his hair. 🤓😜 I wouldn’t be surprised if The Beaver walked into the room.
Re-Using an empty powder container for a different powder is just asking for trouble considering the huge variations among different powders. I will not even reuse an empty powder container to store or combine the same kind/type powder because there can be tiny variations between different "Lots" of the same powder type; which is why manufactures will place the Powder Type, Production Date and Lot # on the container. If there is any kind of issue that pops up later on, the manufacturer can trace it back to the date of manufacture and/or lot # and issue a recall specific to that powder or lot # or even date of manufacture.
The container thing can be fatal. I always knew that rule, but years ago, I took a small amount of leftover shotgun powder (Nobel ??) and put it in a smaller container which had previously had Win 760 in it. Used a nuclear powdered marker pen to update the label. I left it at my parents place. 15 years later, I am revisiting the reloading at my parents and see the container. It did not have a mark on the label except Winchester 760. All of the various attempts I'd made to erase the 760 label and insert Nobel was gone. Obviously it wasn't a ball powder (Nobel is flaked) and I had remembered what I'd done 15 years before. I knew it was wrong when I did it, and I still did it. Putting that in a .22/250 would have been a fatal mistake.
Great video. I started a little over a year ago. Now I will be honest. I have been a mechanic and handyman for over 20 years. I studied hard. Everyone said start with a single stage. I bought a Dillon 550C progressive. Now over a year later I am glad I did. I would have out grew the single stage fast. I now reload. 9mm, 45acp, 10mm, 45-70, 223, 300 BLK, 308 Win,. 38 special. I am an exception to the rule though. I have years of mechanical knowledge and I was able to understand this very well fast. I am strict with all loads. If I can't find it in published literature or on the powder companies web site then I don't do it. All my loads get case gauged. Be safe and enjoy.
Something I also do to help me identify different loads of the same caliber is to color code the head of the case. Just use colored sharpie pens and the ammo box is marked with the same color code. I don't mix my brass that way and if a firearm is left loaded I'm able to identify them correctly.
From experience...don't open more than one container of powder at the time,, i acidently poured my leftover powder in the wrong jug,& i had to pour it all out,,..what a waste, but i could not risk using mixed powder...
I store my powder off the bench, so the jug on the bench is the powder that I’m using in my measure. If I get distracted by UPS at the door with my latest shipment from Brownells, then when I get back to the bench then I know by the jug on the bench what’s in the measure.
NEVER get distracted...!!! I once blew up a Llama .357M due to a distraction while loading. I now use 2 presses in addition to powder measure. The round never leaves my hand(s) from the time it's charged until it's a finished round...!!!
I have boards to hold 50 cases and run them through each step as a group. Any more and my attention starts to wonder. This lets me cull any cases that don't feel like all the others.
I use 2 reloading trays when processing the reloads. Each step moves the finished case from one tray to the other. Example: unformed case goes from first tray to resizing die to second tray. never mix the cases and you don't get lost. If I am not sure my podwer is right, dump and re-throw, always be safe.
Good quality new brass is worth the price when you add up all the varables it eliminates and time it saves. Range pick up brass may be free, but it will burn your free time to properly process it.
@@jtschwinghammer Sometimes you dont have much choice like when I started shooting .300 blackout, its getting much easier now to find new cases but when I got into it I had to make my own brass from 5.56 cases.
I've been a brass scrounger for 40 years or more. A good inspection can usually peg the bad or overused brass. Of course crimped primer pockets is always a giveaway for once fired brass. I clean and store quantities of brass but I have 9mm and 38sp brass that I got in the early 80s that is still holding up to multiple firings annually. I rarely load anything to near max loads either. With 5.56 brass the primer pockets wear out long before the rest of the case most of the time.
I buy the Lake City military brass in 5.56 and 7.62, once fired, by the pound. It makes reloading quite economical - even compared to steel cased Wolf and Tula. Plus, the powders I choose are clean burning and low fouling.
Remove the label on the powder containers before throwing the containers in the trash. People will go through your trash. Don’t use smokeless powder in black powder firearms. If you have to decap cases with live primers, throw the live primer in water before it/them in the trash.
Good information about getting started...but I’ll add another suggestion if you are interested in reloading in 2021...if you don’t already have the primers, powder or bullets for the calibers for which you plan to reload you might want to check on availability of the consumables (or for that matter presses, dies and even bullet molds for casting your own)...you will find they are almost impossible to purchase unless you are willing to pay what the obscene price gouging thieves on auction sites like Gun Broker are charging for reloading supplies 😡🤬😡🤬. I hate to say it but it’s going to be a long time for things to get back to normal (whatever that will be 😐)...it’s not the fault of Brownell’s and rest assured Brownell’s will always be my go to source for shooting related things 👍👍👍.
Make sure to use the exact primer used in the load data, or if a equivalent substitute brand of primer is used start low and work back up! Be very careful to use the correct primer when slow pistol powders such as H110 or Win 296 is used, as a standard primer used when a magnum primer is called for can and will cause a squib load, potentially lodging a bullet in the barrel,
Enjoy reloading now but recommend everyone start with an inexpensive single stage press. First got a Lee Progressive in the 90s but quickly got frustrated and got rid of it (save the dies, primers and powder). 10 Years later, my brother gave me a cheap $20 Lee All In 44 Mag Loader which I enjoyed. Quickly moved on to the Lee Hand Press, Single Stage Presses and a Hornady AP. Find that reloading saves me money but the ability to produce hard to come by calibers and precision rifle ammo are main advantages.
Amen to the single stage. I recommend the Lee Classic Cast and RCBS rockchucker to anyone starting out. Both will last a lifetime and can handle almost any cartridge.
In your store put together a comprehensive list of every component needed to get started per caliber. Include the manual and the gauges/scales needed to get it done correctly. From there a fella can add different dies, bullets, powders etc for other calibers.
Allowing myself to get distracted by my kid caused me to double-charge a .357 round, which then ended up in my wife's S&W Target Champion. Very luckily, all that happened was some very scared people at the range. Cost me $500 for a new cylinder and a large slice of pride and self-confidence.
I have a dozen manuals.. some are pretty old as I started in the early 70's and some of the manuals have loads that are at best? 'dangerous' Nowdays many of the powder or bullet companies have their manuals online for free. I actually will leave powder measures full.. but I put a sticker on em as soon as I fill em. the sticker says what is in em... if I have the slightest doubt I pour it out and destroy it. I have binders that have chrono data with bullets and powder used (I also cast and coat bullets) I also have accuracy data... (targets) My workbench is a mess but only one powder is on it at a time. I do the charge part a bit different.. I charge each case and seat and crimp that round. If I get distracted for some reason I set that loaded round aside for "last round of the day" LOL... I have not had em be squibs or double charges .. which.. double charge is highly unlikely the way I do it.. Also.. I have buckets of primed brass ready to load This means I can change bullet or powder or powder charge. I rarely load more than 150 rounds of one caliber/loading at a time... but load for a dozen calibers and as many bullet weights/styles/powders
Steve, Kaleb, Keith. Thanks. I'm new to reloading and find your insight and information . Great. Short and to the point. Ever thought of taking rookies such as myself in a video and taking them through the steps. Again, thanks and Happy New Year
I am a range safety officer at our local range. My experience with patrons and reloads makes me very nervous around them, several have just picked a load (and a hot one) to use.
John Leake Like gun owners, not all reloaders follow safety rules and they will pay for it sooner or later when the law of averages catch up to them. Or as some will say, nature will take its course when humanity happens.
Safety comes first with shooting and hand loading. Follow loading manual loads. Follow loading instructions from the manuals and manufacturers. Avoid distractions and keep your mind on each step. One loading step at a time. Wear proper PPE like glasses and gloves if necessary. Calibrate and zero scales and gear. Set dies to manufacturer settings. Check brass for cracks and splits and signs of fatigue and any case deformation. Check proper case trim length and COL. Check loading block cases by visually inspecting case powder charges for correct charges before bullet seating. Keep your own load data notebook for the best loads you have developed from the loading manual loads. Store powder and primers properly in sealed metal ammo cans just like ammo then its not affected as much by temperature and moisture.
Also I located the most valuable hostage in Israeli History just by asking God where she was. Then I notified the NSA and she was rescued three days later by a joint team. ❤
Definitely, I buy a new Hodgdon annual manual (magazine style). Great articles, info on powders, burn rates, new loads since last year and caution info. I also, keep all old manuals. The older ones are good if you had a load that worked well in the past, but data changes over time and some older manuals may not have all the info you need, such as, missing Cartridge overall length measurement may not be there, and powder and bullets get discontinued over time. In the end one manual is better than none.
I've only been called away from the press a few times but I have my routine. I put a card on the press of where I was at. Example, case in the press is powdered, next step, seat bullet.
My cautions are...1...don't try to "magnumize" a cartridge. If you need more power, go to a heaver cartridge. 2...don't guess. Get a good manual. No need to re-invent the wheel. They've done the testing with GOOD equipment. 3...work your load up from the reduced charge . 4....don't load when tired or distracted. At the end of the day we would rather go home smiling...not standing around the ER crying. This is my second post. Thats what happens when I find videos with good info from guys I find to be real gun guys.
Be sure what a correct powder charge looks like in the case and give every case a quick look before seating the bullet. Especially with stick rifle powders. Sever undercharge can be worse than a moderate overcharge.
As a beginning reloader the most confusing thing for me was looking at 2 or 3 different manuals and seeing they all have different load data for the same exact powder type and projectile for the same caliber cartridge. 🤔
Newer manuals have lighter loads generally due to lawyers making changes to author notes for safety. That said, newer manuals may be the better bet for starting out...
Clean your powder thrower before and after each use Recently setting up, noticed some rust on old Lyman powder thrower, disassembled/cleaned found a clump of powder hanging on the inside of throat just after the part that measures and rotates to drop into case. Held on by oil, grease, or maybe just that type of powder. Could’ve been a bad day.
Another great presentation gentlemen. I use a Dillon 450 (for years) and the powder measure is adequate. How frequently should I be sampling the powder charge weights for my 308 cartridges? I do it every 20 rounds but have been told that is unnecessary. Loading for hunting, not long range bench shooting.
You're doing fine. If you aren't already doing it, add a step of using a flashlight to eyeball each cartridge before seating the bullets. Unless you are reloading mixed brass, they should all look the same.
I never load max loads just for plinking, it's a waste of powder. Another nice thing about loading your own ammo is you can load down magnum loads for the kids to enjoy.
They were referring to "The Forums" - a bunch of anonomous dudes who can claim anything. Hodgdon (& some other reputable companies) just chose a different medium for their reloading guide, and they stand behind it.
@@siestatime4638 We know the forums are what are being referred to in the video but clarification needs to be made to the legitimate web load data from ammo manufacturers.
@@brownells Right. Guy in a forum asks what's a good load for .30-30? Response: "My grandpappy's sister's uncle's cousin, just used what he bought in a sack at a yard sale !"
Most bad things on shooting sites are problems with reloads, fast drawing, laying a cocked "empty" gun on the table. Ammo factories make thousands of consistantly perfect bullets every day...
They do, but then you go look for something you bought before that performed well, and they discontinued it, are sold out, or they decided they aren't going to sell it any more.
As a reloader I used to stick to data, but lately I have started to branch outside of data, data is a baseline to go off of and every gun and barrel will respond differently. Some you will encounter pressure signs below the max charge other times you won’t encounter it until past your max charge!
Keep the distractions to a minimum.. was doing a live video, chatting away and charging 6.5 creedmoor rounds.. went to the range the next day to find have off my loads didn't have primers.. was using IMR 4895. That's stick powder so none dumped out of the primer hole. If it was fine powder I would've caught the mistake at the bench with powder falling out. Yeah, don't get distracted.. Reload responsibly. 👊
I always put a sticky note on my powder measure with the name of the powder and the size of the charge it is dispensing and the load specs (C.O.L, crimp, primer, bullet etc.) I leave it on the powder measure even when it is empty so I can return to the cartridge I was loading last session. If I change the measure for a different powder or different cartridge I put the sticky note on the powder canister besides having it written down in the back of my manuals. Also, just in case something happens to me my family knows how to handle and store the powder and primers safely.
OH NO! You're supposed to say it is EASIER than it looks. Well, already saw the "is it economical" video, so probably staying with commercial ammo, and letting others reload my spent brass, for a minor payback. And thanks for the truth!
Why don’t you do a video about what happens when you reload a rifle round and tumbling media remains/lodged in the brass. How it effects pressure, accuracy, and how likely it is to blow up the gun. You make awesome videos and I'm most grateful for all the work you do.
safe loading hint ... using a single stage press ... do not charge a tray of cases ... keep your cases upside down in the tray. Charge 1 case at a time look in the case and then seat the bullet. Then repeat.
Brian Kerr Or just visually check your case powder charges on the loading block before you seat bullets that way you don't have to keep changing dies. Same thing but you are just wasting time changing dies back and forth. Go step by step. (case prep) - deprime/decap, resize, trim; (load) - prime, charge, seat, and crimp. Or as I like to do, case prep first and then load.
Looking to get in to reloading, both pistol (9, 40, and 10) and rifle (5.56, 270, various .30s, and 350) cases. For rifle, I am thinking of doing two press set-up assembly. First would be a single stage to decap, then tumble, then back to the single stage to neck size, following with a trimmer. Changing neck sizing dies to match caliber. Second press would be a progressive set up to prime, charge, seat bullet, and crimp neck. Changing the turret with dedicated dies mounted for each particular caliber. Buying a new caliber components and turret set up each year until I have what I need to load for the rifles I have. Would Lee's loadmaster progressive be acceptable for a budget minded, able to grow set-up?
You guys are awesome! But im pulling my hair though ,I have 7 different manuals all different powder charges on most my calibers.one such is 30-30 . I settled on 30gr of imr3031 under a 170gr Hornady Interlock
It isn't strictly necessary, but it does ensure that recoil won't set bullets back deeper into the case. This isn't usually a problem, but it is reasonably cheap insurance.
I've wanted to get started reloading for so long now.... I've got like 5 buckets of brass in 9mm and 5.56 and 1 bucket of 45acp but..... It's just so damn exspensive to get all the gear needed just to start AND THEN trying to find powder, bullets and primers.... Idk, I guess it's just a pipe dream for now.... The cheapest equipment I can find to even get to a starting point is like 600 bucks, and that's not including the material, that's just all the tools necessary.... Wish I had a close friend or family member that reloaded. 😥
Good advice on ALWAYS emptying the powder back into the container when you finish. I loaded up a bunch of "holiday loads" on my Dillon 550 for a family fun shoot at Ben Avery over the Christmas/New Year holiday. I get back home and went to set up again and start loading... was it 748??? Wait, was it H322? Awww crap - I had to give the lawn a half pound of tasty nitrogen-rich fertilizer instead of taking the chance. (y'can't fix stupid) 🙂 NOTEBOOK!! Important at the bench and at the range! (In my "you dumbass" voice to myself, "was it that 24.5gr load or 24.7 that grouped so good?")
I am researching if I want to begin reloading. The Summit and Hornady Lock n Load Iron press are the two finalist. Can you discuss how or if you like the auto primer as the Lock n Load and a hand primer? Thank you for the videos.
I have some very old .223 ammo, that was stored most of the time in an unheated or air conditioned garage. Should I just shoot it or pull the primers and bullets to save the bullets and brass for reloading? This ammo is form the 1980's.
Paul6774 I have shot old ammo that was just laying out in the open for years before and it shot just fine but it was in good condition and not corroded or anything. Some of the rounds were kind of underpressured I assumed from powder degradation over time. If rounds have been subjected to heat as in direct sunlight the pressure could go up in the case. Cold temps tend to lower pressure. Its the really drastic temperatures or drastic changes that does bad things to powder. Just room temperature or cool and warm temperatures probably won't cause a problem but super hot or freezing cold is a problem. The key word here is extreme temperatures. Since I live in FL we can get pretty hot temps and I don't have the luxury of storing my powder in temp controlled places so its in a storage unit. However the temperature and shelving inside the unit does not get hot to the point of killing the powder (it is ventilated) and the powder is further stored in sealed metal ammo cans. Even though the storage unit can get warm it still seems to keep just fine. I would know if it ever goes bad by smell and condition. www.rifleshootermag.com/editorial/how-to-determine-gunpowder-shelf-life/83922
These are some good tips. I have a Lee breech lock challenger kit that was given to me for Christmas... I want to start reloading .223 my question is can you use different dies rather than the Lee ones? I notice a shortage of Lee dies right now. Since I'm new I'm worried about buying the wrong one or the wrong size that will fit the single-stage press. If anyone knows a good place that has dies currently and not too expensive please let me know.
Getting load information off the internet is not a bad thing, unless you're too old to understand the internet. All the major gun powder producers have load data for a large array of calibers and bullet weights. Hodgdon's reloading data base is especially impressive. Literally the only thing I use my Speer reloading manual for is checking case dimensions.
What’s a safe load-in my gun may not be safe in your gun. I’ve seen that pop up several times. I’m running a Hot load in my Remington 700 then I bought a Winchester model 70 super grade. I was checking chamber lengths they were identical. They both shoot little tiny groups at exactly same velocity safe in both rifles. RARE!!! Then my buddy bought a 270 and he wanted to try my reloads. Here’s the problem he said the bolts hard to close. He knew it was a hot 🥵 load I knew it and we should hav3 stoped there. Boom. Blew primer clean out of case lucky no one got hurt! I knew those bullets where seated long only .030 off lands of my rifles then you get a shorter chamber and it gets real bad real fast.
I am confused as to what was said about compressed loads. I just loaded some 30-06 ammo that is a compressed load according to the recipe in the book. Are you saying that all compressed loads are dangerous?
I have a question about reloading data, I have 4 reloading manuals and for 9 mm for a specific bullet type and weight , there are 4 powder charges for the same powder. Do I choose the lowest to start with? Its kind of confusing when there is so much variation on powder weight. Thanks
I have been loading ammunition for nearly 40 years, I load a lot of , and many different cartridges.
I can tell you that the gentlemen in this video absolutely know what they are talking about and they are absolutely correct in everything they’ve said.
LISTEN TO THEM !
Especially the advice to wear safety glasses . During 40 years of reloading, I have had two primers go off in the press, and my glasses saved my eyes both times.
Great video guys. You’re an asset to the firearms community !
Thank you, old timer
You’re Welcome, Thanks for everything you do and the honest, factual ,concise videos you publish. I hope our younger less experienced folks out there will have the ears to hear and the eyes to see and understand the knowledge you give them.
Keep your powder dry !
I have found it very helpful to load a dummy round initially in order to seat the bullet at the correct depth and also the crimp.
Reloading is about developing good & safe habits for each step.
Check & double check each operation.
If you think something is wrong, it is. Repair, reset & regroup.
Accuracy is addicting & reloading is therapeutic & relaxing.
You let every other thought or concern go & you laser focus on the task at hand.
Reloading has brought me 32 years of joy & a great sense of accomplishment.
I still get excited to come home after work & reload.
Before I started reloading I contacted Brownells techs for advice. Kasey replied with some great suggestions. I spent a bunch of money, Now I have enough ammo and supplies for years. Sometimes I wished I lived closer to Brownells, but an hour and ten minute drive ain't bad.
What I've learned in 3,500 rounds.
While a lot of powder manufacturers have an online site for load data, the manual contains chapters of other important information. Read them before you start, and then reread them after you have a handle on things.
Get a primer pocket swager. There's a lot of crimped primer pocket brass out there. Trying to stuff a primer into crimped hole can detonate a primmer.
If you are considering RELOADING to SAVE MONEY, know this, your first round may cost easily a thousand dollars for press, dies, scale, powder measure, book, caliper, trimmer, deburrer, reamer/swager, locking rings, cleaning equipment and materials, lighting, bench, powder, primers and bullets. And it can be very time consuming. With a single stage press I can make some nice cheap 9mm ammo at a rate of a hundred rounds in 1.5 hours with a material cost of under 20 cents a round. This time includes, time spent on set up, take down and clean up. It took me a few thousand rounds to pay off my equipment compared to buying ammo off the shelf. That's a lot of evenings sitting at the reloading bench. And if include the time scavenging brass, sorting brass and searching for in stock materials, add many more hours. For a while it was look online an hour a week for MONTHS at a time.
Work in a comfortable well lit area; this minimizes the chance for mistakes. And a solid bench is good for consistency.
There is a case length specification with minimum and maximum, a minimum cartridge length based on powder and bullet and a maximum cartridge length based on the caliber. Know them all, or at least have them written down. SAAMI website has great pdf’s for this info. Some reloading books do not contain the minimum case length.
ALWAYS follow the instructions for die set up and the recipe for powder weight and overall length.
Steel and aluminum cases are not reloadable, but can be recycled as metal. Brass and nickel plated brass is reloadable.
There's a couple types of primers, Boxer and Berdan. Boxer primers have once center hole on the inside of the case. These can be reloaded. Berdan has two holes inside the case and cannot be reloaded. If you run them through a sizing or decapping die you can break the decapping pin.
There are different sizes and powers of primers, small pistol, large pistol, small rifle, large rifle, and then there's match, magnum, and so on. Know what you need and buy that.
Some sizing dies have carbide inserts, this allows you to not have to lube your case before sizing. If you do not have carbide inserts you should lube the cases because they may get stuck in the dies. After resizing a lubed case you need to either wipe or wash off the lube. If you wash then you have to re-dry. If you lube cases, some of that lube will cake up in the die eventually. Clean it out.
Some ammo can be loaded with cast lead or plated or coated ammo. It is cheaper. But if you are using mixed manufacturer brass to load it your case length and therefore crimp may vary. This crimp variation can lead to the coating coming off and your barrel being leaded or exceptionally high pressure which can cause damage or injury. Therefore, some of us trim our cases to a uniform length before loading these bullets.
A great source of information is The Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute (SAAMI) You can find detailed cartridge drawings including tolerances, storage recommendations, and other good info there. Check it out.
There's also questions like can I use this die for that load? 380 cannot be reloaded with 9mm dies. While they look close except for the length, they taper differently. Don't bother trying. 38 special can be reloaded with some 357 magnum dies.
Great Suggestions!
Don't Smoke or Play with Fire
I believe one of the most effective safety devices is the loading tray where you can scan all the casings to ensure all are filled to the same level. This makes spotting a double charge very easy since they are stacked close together and are all on the same level
Case prep is time consuming and drawn out. I do my case prep ahead of time. Then those fully prepped cases are waiting for me the day I'm ready to load that caliber. I'm only thinking about seating the primer, getting my powder charge right and C.O.L. of the loaded round. That is enough things to keep straight for one loading session. I always enjoy your videos. Good information every time! Thanks.
Mark Goostree Smart to separate your case prep from your loading. I tend to do it all at the same time but I am looking to change that.
My Grandad was really into reloading before he passed away. Been some years since, but I have some of his reloading equipment and want to get into it. Thanks for the video.
Germaxicus I have some nephews that won't take the time for me to show them reloading so when I am gone they will be in the same boat you are if they want to load but more than likely they will sell off my reloading gear. I have one nephew that has his own kit I bought for him as a gift many years ago and he knows how but if he still loads or not I don't know.
@@rbm6184 that's too bad your nephews aren't interested. I'm the only person I know reloading to be honest. I have setup now with my Grandad's old equipment (RCBS built like a tank!). I find the whole process of reloading to be quite relaxing. Plus everytime I sit down I'm reminded of my Grandad
@@germaxicus6670 I can recall back in the 80s when I was competition match shooting at a gun club and going through a lot of ammo so I started reloading. Small scale hand loading at first. Later a small prefab lawn mower shed with an electrical line running to it out in the backyard. I had a shop light, vibratory tumbler, fan to keep cool, and stereo music while I loaded on the loading bench. It was relaxing. Way out back I had a big garbage pit with a big sand berm I used to test hand loads into. A few of us from my job were in the club also and they reloaded also. Those were the days.
Wow that’s a shame that your grandkids wont be in to it. I can relate 100% to you, I grew up with my dad reloading black powder for competition matches. Helping him cast bullets and reload the whole round. I just got a single stage rock chucker rcbs to start my collection. I’m 23 right now so we will see where it goes
@@rbm6184 I’m about to start reloading in my shed
GOOD IDEAS!!!! When I Start A Reloading Session.I have already let My Wife know that I'm going to be reloading,She Knows I'm not to be disturbed,unless the House is on Fire or There's Some MAJOR DISASTER COMING OUR WAY!!!!! THE DOOR IS LOCKED,PHONES TURNED OFF AND UNPLUGGED IN MY RELOADING ROOM,NO TV OR RADIO!!!!! I ALWAYS DO THIS EVEN FOR LOADS THAT IV'E BEEN LOADING FOR YEARS!!!!! I TAKE MY RELOADING VERY SERIOUS.IV'E NEVER HAD A SERIOUS PROBLEM WITH MY RELOADS!!! I LEARNED HOW TO RELOAD FROM MY GRANDFATHER,BACK IN THE 60'S. Grandpa bought me my first 22 when I was 6 Years Old.
Is your keyboard sticky?
good to hear
Jesus, it’s reloading, not building a nuclear core. Stay away from ignition and you’ll be fine. Unless you just want a break from the old lady so that’s what u tell her haha.
Just wanted to give you guys a shout out for being a great company. This has nothing to do with reloading but you guys always put out excellent videos, you have excellent customer service on the retail side of your company and you carry all the little spare parts that anyone would need for whatever firearm they have (especially Colt AR parts).out of the dozens of orders I have placed with you guys over the last two or three years, you guys have never failed me once. Thank you for staying true to your core values that you had when you started as a company way back when, that's a rarity these days
Thank you so much for your patronage! We appreciate you tons! 😀
Especially if you’re new to reloading or It’s been awhile since you’ve reloaded ammo, make sure that you don’t just turn to the page with your caliber and start reloading. Read all of that “junk” in the beginning of the Manual.
Empty powder containers are for storing pick up brass at the range after the labels have been removed.
I store all kinds of stuff in those old powder cans, just not other powder. no powder should ever go into an empty powder can it didnt come from.
Awesome, just as I'm getting in to reloading and Brownells makes a video about reloading!
Its like we are in your miiiind* points to temple area repeatedly while staring awkwardly😂
Good formation. Knowledge is key to reloading. I always recommend that a new reloader go ahead and purchase a reloading book first, and start reading it. Thanks for the information fellas. Echo
Thanks Steve Keith n Caleb Great Suggestions and Tips I Really Appreciate These Videos 😀😊😎
Make sure you have plenty of mousse and a comb so you can be on point like Caleb
He's a time traveler from the 50s
"Andy Griffith" style
Caleb takes so much flak! However, you rarely hear of a young buck named Caleb who lubes his hair. 🤓😜
I wouldn’t be surprised if The Beaver walked into the room.
I’m pretty sure he uses Hornady One Shot for that level of shine.
The man is a legend!
Very wise information. Keep up the good work. 👍🏼
Step one: find primers.
Step two: send them to me.
I feel attacked :(
Re-Using an empty powder container for a different powder is just asking for trouble considering the huge variations among different powders. I will not even reuse an empty powder container to store or combine the same kind/type powder because there can be tiny variations between different "Lots" of the same powder type; which is why manufactures will place the Powder Type, Production Date and Lot # on the container. If there is any kind of issue that pops up later on, the manufacturer can trace it back to the date of manufacture and/or lot # and issue a recall specific to that powder or lot # or even date of manufacture.
The container thing can be fatal. I always knew that rule, but years ago, I took a small amount of leftover shotgun powder (Nobel ??) and put it in a smaller container which had previously had Win 760 in it. Used a nuclear powdered marker pen to update the label. I left it at my parents place. 15 years later, I am revisiting the reloading at my parents and see the container.
It did not have a mark on the label except Winchester 760. All of the various attempts I'd made to erase the 760 label and insert Nobel was gone.
Obviously it wasn't a ball powder (Nobel is flaked) and I had remembered what I'd done 15 years before. I knew it was wrong when I did it, and I still did it.
Putting that in a .22/250 would have been a fatal mistake.
Dennis H-CH All of our empty containers get crushed and thrown away as soon as they are empty.
Great video. I started a little over a year ago. Now I will be honest. I have been a mechanic and handyman for over 20 years. I studied hard. Everyone said start with a single stage. I bought a Dillon 550C progressive. Now over a year later I am glad I did. I would have out grew the single stage fast. I now reload. 9mm, 45acp, 10mm, 45-70, 223, 300 BLK, 308 Win,. 38 special. I am an exception to the rule though. I have years of mechanical knowledge and I was able to understand this very well fast. I am strict with all loads. If I can't find it in published literature or on the powder companies web site then I don't do it. All my loads get case gauged. Be safe and enjoy.
Something I also do to help me identify different loads of the same caliber is to color code the head of the case. Just use colored sharpie pens and the ammo box is marked with the same color code. I don't mix my brass that way and if a firearm is left loaded I'm able to identify them correctly.
From experience...don't open more than one container of powder at the time,, i acidently poured my leftover powder in the wrong jug,& i had to pour it all out,,..what a waste, but i could not risk using mixed powder...
I store my powder off the bench, so the jug on the bench is the powder that I’m using in my measure. If I get distracted by UPS at the door with my latest shipment from Brownells, then when I get back to the bench then I know by the jug on the bench what’s in the measure.
I heard about somebody accidentally loading .223 with a 9mm Parabellum load in addition to the regular .223 load. Recipe for disaster.
NEVER get distracted...!!! I once blew up a Llama .357M due to a distraction while loading. I now use 2 presses in addition to powder measure. The round never leaves my hand(s) from the time it's charged until it's a finished round...!!!
I have boards to hold 50 cases and run them through each step as a group. Any more and my attention starts to wonder. This lets me cull any cases that don't feel like all the others.
So glad I got this Video, once I seen Caleb - I remembered I’ve got to change the oil in my truck..... I’ll be back soon to watch rest of video.
LOL
I use 2 reloading trays when processing the reloads. Each step moves the finished case from one tray to the other. Example: unformed case goes from first tray to resizing die to second tray. never mix the cases and you don't get lost.
If I am not sure my podwer is right, dump and re-throw, always be safe.
I do the same
I am pretty new to reloading and do the same, it just seemed like a good way to avoid issues.
Very much the same for me and I'll recheck my scales several times while loading a batch.
Thanks guys I appreciate this video. I'll definitely start with a manual and go from there.
Good quality new brass is worth the price when you add up all the varables it eliminates and time it saves. Range pick up brass may be free, but it will burn your free time to properly process it.
On top what you said with the range pick up brass you can also never trust it 100% because he don't know how many times that's been fired.
@@jtschwinghammer Sometimes you dont have much choice like when I started shooting .300 blackout, its getting much easier now to find new cases but when I got into it I had to make my own brass from 5.56 cases.
I've been a brass scrounger for 40 years or more. A good inspection can usually peg the bad or overused brass. Of course crimped primer pockets is always a giveaway for once fired brass. I clean and store quantities of brass but I have 9mm and 38sp brass that I got in the early 80s that is still holding up to multiple firings annually. I rarely load anything to near max loads either. With 5.56 brass the primer pockets wear out long before the rest of the case most of the time.
I buy the Lake City military brass in 5.56 and 7.62, once fired, by the pound. It makes reloading quite economical - even compared to steel cased Wolf and Tula. Plus, the powders I choose are clean burning and low fouling.
I'm new and they mentioned things I never heard of or even thought of! Great Video!
Very informative, great for those interested in getting into reloading.
Remove the label on the powder containers before throwing the containers in the trash. People will go through your trash. Don’t use smokeless powder in black powder firearms. If you have to decap cases with live primers, throw the live primer in water before it/them in the trash.
You fellers are awesome. Thank you for all the great videos.
Good information about getting started...but I’ll add another suggestion if you are interested in reloading in 2021...if you don’t already have the primers, powder or bullets for the calibers for which you plan to reload you might want to check on availability of the consumables (or for that matter presses, dies and even bullet molds for casting your own)...you will find they are almost impossible to purchase unless you are willing to pay what the obscene price gouging thieves on auction sites like Gun Broker are charging for reloading supplies 😡🤬😡🤬. I hate to say it but it’s going to be a long time for things to get back to normal (whatever that will be 😐)...it’s not the fault of Brownell’s and rest assured Brownell’s will always be my go to source for shooting related things 👍👍👍.
Great vid for someone considering entering the world of reloading.
Make sure to use the exact primer used in the load data, or if a equivalent substitute brand of primer is used start low and work back up! Be very careful to use the correct primer when slow pistol powders such as H110 or Win 296 is used, as a standard primer used when a magnum primer is called for can and will cause a squib load, potentially lodging a bullet in the barrel,
Enjoy reloading now but recommend everyone start with an inexpensive single stage press. First got a Lee Progressive in the 90s but quickly got frustrated and got rid of it (save the dies, primers and powder). 10 Years later, my brother gave me a cheap $20 Lee All In 44 Mag Loader which I enjoyed. Quickly moved on to the Lee Hand Press, Single Stage Presses and a Hornady AP. Find that reloading saves me money but the ability to produce hard to come by calibers and precision rifle ammo are main advantages.
Amen to the single stage. I recommend the Lee Classic Cast and RCBS rockchucker to anyone starting out. Both will last a lifetime and can handle almost any cartridge.
Check every loaded round in a case guage.
Buy the book "the ABC's of reloading". Read it thoughorly. That way when you start, you will understand the terminology, and reason for each process.
Great advice!!!
In your store put together a comprehensive list of every component needed to get started per caliber. Include the manual and the gauges/scales needed to get it done correctly. From there a fella can add different dies, bullets, powders etc for other calibers.
Allowing myself to get distracted by my kid caused me to double-charge a .357 round, which then ended up in my wife's S&W Target Champion. Very luckily, all that happened was some very scared people at the range. Cost me $500 for a new cylinder and a large slice of pride and self-confidence.
I have a dozen manuals.. some are pretty old as I started in the early 70's and some of the manuals have loads that are at best? 'dangerous' Nowdays many of the powder or bullet companies have their manuals online for free. I actually will leave powder measures full.. but I put a sticker on em as soon as I fill em. the sticker says what is in em... if I have the slightest doubt I pour it out and destroy it. I have binders that have chrono data with bullets and powder used (I also cast and coat bullets) I also have accuracy data... (targets) My workbench is a mess but only one powder is on it at a time. I do the charge part a bit different.. I charge each case and seat and crimp that round. If I get distracted for some reason I set that loaded round aside for "last round of the day" LOL... I have not had em be squibs or double charges .. which.. double charge is highly unlikely the way I do it.. Also.. I have buckets of primed brass ready to load This means I can change bullet or powder or powder charge. I rarely load more than 150 rounds of one caliber/loading at a time... but load for a dozen calibers and as many bullet weights/styles/powders
Steve, Kaleb, Keith. Thanks. I'm new to reloading and find your insight and information . Great. Short and to the point. Ever thought of taking rookies such as myself in a video and taking them through the steps. Again, thanks and Happy New Year
Good lighting is a must
I am a range safety officer at our local range. My experience with patrons and reloads makes me very nervous around them, several have just picked a load (and a hot one) to use.
John Leake Like gun owners, not all reloaders follow safety rules and they will pay for it sooner or later when the law of averages catch up to them. Or as some will say, nature will take its course when humanity happens.
The max load folks make me cring too. I have been able to convert a few, especially after they go from pie plate groups to cutting holes.
Safety comes first with shooting and hand loading. Follow loading manual loads. Follow loading instructions from the manuals and manufacturers. Avoid distractions and keep your mind on each step. One loading step at a time. Wear proper PPE like glasses and gloves if necessary. Calibrate and zero scales and gear. Set dies to manufacturer settings. Check brass for cracks and splits and signs of fatigue and any case deformation. Check proper case trim length and COL. Check loading block cases by visually inspecting case powder charges for correct charges before bullet seating. Keep your own load data notebook for the best loads you have developed from the loading manual loads. Store powder and primers properly in sealed metal ammo cans just like ammo then its not affected as much by temperature and moisture.
Get into the habit of planning a convenient stop on projects that will take more than one session.
I'm just getting started in this adventure.
Caleb sitting in the middle looking like...”Do not ever do this.”
Also I located the most valuable hostage in Israeli History just by asking God where she was. Then I notified the NSA and she was rescued three days later by a joint team. ❤
You guys are great. Always good info and advise.
Shot Tula 223 steel cased at the CMP GSMM matches. Score was top 20%. Maybe reloading could push my score up ?
When in doubt, bring the manual out
Always!
Definitely, I buy a new Hodgdon annual manual (magazine style). Great articles, info on powders, burn rates, new loads since last year and caution info. I also, keep all old manuals. The older ones are good if you had a load that worked well in the past, but data changes over time and some older manuals may not have all the info you need, such as, missing Cartridge overall length measurement may not be there, and powder and bullets get discontinued over time. In the end one manual is better than none.
I've only been called away from the press a few times but I have my routine. I put a card on the press of where I was at. Example, case in the press is powdered, next step, seat bullet.
My cautions are...1...don't try to "magnumize" a cartridge. If you need more power, go to a heaver cartridge. 2...don't guess. Get a good manual. No need to re-invent the wheel. They've done the testing with GOOD equipment. 3...work your load up from the reduced charge . 4....don't load when tired or distracted. At the end of the day we would rather go home smiling...not standing around the ER crying. This is my second post. Thats what happens when I find videos with good info from guys I find to be real gun guys.
Be sure what a correct powder charge looks like in the case and give every case a quick look before seating the bullet. Especially with stick rifle powders. Sever undercharge can be worse than a moderate overcharge.
As a beginning reloader the most confusing thing for me was looking at 2 or 3 different manuals and seeing they all have different load data for the same exact powder type and projectile for the same caliber cartridge. 🤔
Newer manuals have lighter loads generally due to lawyers making changes to author notes for safety. That said, newer manuals may be the better bet for starting out...
Don’t have a beer or whiskey and start reloading!
Clean your powder thrower before and after each use
Recently setting up, noticed some rust on old Lyman powder thrower, disassembled/cleaned found a clump of powder hanging on the inside of throat just after the part that measures and rotates to drop into case.
Held on by oil, grease, or maybe just that type of powder. Could’ve been a bad day.
Another great presentation gentlemen. I use a Dillon 450 (for years) and the powder measure is adequate. How frequently should I be sampling the powder charge weights for my 308 cartridges? I do it every 20 rounds but have been told that is unnecessary. Loading for hunting, not long range bench shooting.
You're doing fine. If you aren't already doing it, add a step of using a flashlight to eyeball each cartridge before seating the bullets. Unless you are reloading mixed brass, they should all look the same.
Geez, I check every 5. Maybe I’m too paranoid about it getting off.
I never load max loads just for plinking, it's a waste of powder. Another nice thing about loading your own ammo is you can load down magnum loads for the kids to enjoy.
Whenever I see Caleb I always wait for a Jimmy Dean song...
You can get loads off the internet ... Hodgdon site for instance
Brian Kerr There is nothing wrong with getting proven load data directly from ammo manufacturers other than load manual book data.
They were referring to "The Forums" - a bunch of anonomous dudes who can claim anything. Hodgdon (& some other reputable companies) just chose a different medium for their reloading guide, and they stand behind it.
Correct! Siesta Time is on to something!
@@siestatime4638 We know the forums are what are being referred to in the video but clarification needs to be made to the legitimate web load data from ammo manufacturers.
@@brownells Right. Guy in a forum asks what's a good load for .30-30? Response: "My grandpappy's sister's uncle's cousin, just used what he bought in a sack at a yard sale !"
Most bad things on shooting sites are problems with reloads, fast drawing, laying a cocked "empty" gun on the table. Ammo factories make thousands of consistantly perfect bullets every day...
They do, but then you go look for something you bought before that performed well, and they discontinued it, are sold out, or they decided they aren't going to sell it any more.
As a reloader I used to stick to data, but lately I have started to branch outside of data, data is a baseline to go off of and every gun and barrel will respond differently. Some you will encounter pressure signs below the max charge other times you won’t encounter it until past your max charge!
Thanks for the advice.
writing things downs, simple but essential
Keep the distractions to a minimum.. was doing a live video, chatting away and charging 6.5 creedmoor rounds.. went to the range the next day to find have off my loads didn't have primers.. was using IMR 4895. That's stick powder so none dumped out of the primer hole. If it was fine powder I would've caught the mistake at the bench with powder falling out. Yeah, don't get distracted.. Reload responsibly. 👊
I always put a sticky note on my powder measure with the name of the powder and the size of the charge it is dispensing and the load specs (C.O.L, crimp, primer, bullet etc.) I leave it on the powder measure even when it is empty so I can return to the cartridge I was loading last session. If I change the measure for a different powder or different cartridge I put the sticky note on the powder canister besides having it written down in the back of my manuals.
Also, just in case something happens to me my family knows how to handle and store the powder and primers safely.
as usual guys great video again
OH NO! You're supposed to say it is EASIER than it looks. Well, already saw the "is it economical" video, so probably staying with commercial ammo, and letting others reload my spent brass, for a minor payback. And thanks for the truth!
All good points
Thanks for watching!
Why don’t you do a video about what happens when you reload a rifle round and tumbling media remains/lodged in the brass. How it effects pressure, accuracy, and how likely it is to blow up the gun. You make awesome videos and I'm most grateful for all the work you do.
safe loading hint ... using a single stage press ... do not charge a tray of cases ... keep your cases upside down in the tray. Charge 1 case at a time look in the case and then seat the bullet. Then repeat.
Brian Kerr Great tip,I will
do this from now on! Thanks!
@@dolphincliffs8864 your welcome, happy shooting
Brian Kerr Or just visually check your case powder charges on the loading block before you seat bullets that way you don't have to keep changing dies. Same thing but you are just wasting time changing dies back and forth. Go step by step. (case prep) - deprime/decap, resize, trim; (load) - prime, charge, seat, and crimp. Or as I like to do, case prep first and then load.
@@rbm6184 i'm not changing dies. all the cases are prepped, trimmed, primers in etc. ready to charge and seat.
@@briankerr4512 Ah. Okay. It sounded like you were changing dies back and forth.
Looking to get in to reloading, both pistol (9, 40, and 10) and rifle (5.56, 270, various .30s, and 350) cases. For rifle, I am thinking of doing two press set-up assembly. First would be a single stage to decap, then tumble, then back to the single stage to neck size, following with a trimmer. Changing neck sizing dies to match caliber.
Second press would be a progressive set up to prime, charge, seat bullet, and crimp neck. Changing the turret with dedicated dies mounted for each particular caliber. Buying a new caliber components and turret set up each year until I have what I need to load for the rifles I have.
Would Lee's loadmaster progressive be acceptable for a budget minded, able to grow set-up?
You guys are awesome! But im pulling my hair though ,I have 7 different manuals all different powder charges on most my calibers.one such is 30-30 . I settled on 30gr of imr3031 under a 170gr Hornady Interlock
Always prime separately on all military cases primers will go off period. Don't have powder and priming at same time.
I’ve got a lee loadmaster with the powder auto measure I have noticed a continual +- .4gr discrepancy is this common.
Caleb. Live long and prosper. : )
Is it necessary to use cannelured bullets in simiauto rifles and pistols?
It isn't strictly necessary, but it does ensure that recoil won't set bullets back deeper into the case. This isn't usually a problem, but it is reasonably cheap insurance.
I've wanted to get started reloading for so long now.... I've got like 5 buckets of brass in 9mm and 5.56 and 1 bucket of 45acp but..... It's just so damn exspensive to get all the gear needed just to start AND THEN trying to find powder, bullets and primers.... Idk, I guess it's just a pipe dream for now.... The cheapest equipment I can find to even get to a starting point is like 600 bucks, and that's not including the material, that's just all the tools necessary.... Wish I had a close friend or family member that reloaded. 😥
i use a electronic label maker to label my ammo boxes. It doesn't smear and they hold up.
They hold up best if you buy the versions that have laminated labels.
@@chemusvandergeek1209 Those are what I use :-)
Good stuff
Good advice on ALWAYS emptying the powder back into the container when you finish. I loaded up a bunch of "holiday loads" on my Dillon 550 for a family fun shoot at Ben Avery over the Christmas/New Year holiday. I get back home and went to set up again and start loading... was it 748??? Wait, was it H322? Awww crap - I had to give the lawn a half pound of tasty nitrogen-rich fertilizer instead of taking the chance. (y'can't fix stupid) 🙂
NOTEBOOK!! Important at the bench and at the range! (In my "you dumbass" voice to myself, "was it that 24.5gr load or 24.7 that grouped so good?")
Are there any reloading manuals for 500 S&W and 700gr bullets?
I reuse powder bottles all the time... For spent primers... Do not reuse powder bottles for powder
I am researching if I want to begin reloading. The Summit and Hornady Lock n Load Iron press are the two finalist. Can you discuss how or if you like the auto primer as the Lock n Load and a hand primer? Thank you for the videos.
Local auctions often have half full, half empty old powders for sale. No way.
Is the lee classic loader a good option for beginners.
I have some very old .223 ammo, that was stored most of the time in an unheated or air conditioned garage. Should I just shoot it or pull the primers and bullets to save the bullets and brass for reloading? This ammo is form the 1980's.
Paul6774 I have shot old ammo that was just laying out in the open for years before and it shot just fine but it was in good condition and not corroded or anything. Some of the rounds were kind of underpressured I assumed from powder degradation over time. If rounds have been subjected to heat as in direct sunlight the pressure could go up in the case. Cold temps tend to lower pressure. Its the really drastic temperatures or drastic changes that does bad things to powder. Just room temperature or cool and warm temperatures probably won't cause a problem but super hot or freezing cold is a problem. The key word here is extreme temperatures. Since I live in FL we can get pretty hot temps and I don't have the luxury of storing my powder in temp controlled places so its in a storage unit. However the temperature and shelving inside the unit does not get hot to the point of killing the powder (it is ventilated) and the powder is further stored in sealed metal ammo cans. Even though the storage unit can get warm it still seems to keep just fine. I would know if it ever goes bad by smell and condition.
www.rifleshootermag.com/editorial/how-to-determine-gunpowder-shelf-life/83922
These are some good tips. I have a Lee breech lock challenger kit that was given to me for Christmas... I want to start reloading .223 my question is can you use different dies rather than the Lee ones? I notice a shortage of Lee dies right now. Since I'm new I'm worried about buying the wrong one or the wrong size that will fit the single-stage press. If anyone knows a good place that has dies currently and not too expensive please let me know.
Getting load information off the internet is not a bad thing, unless you're too old to understand the internet. All the major gun powder producers have load data for a large array of calibers and bullet weights. Hodgdon's reloading data base is especially impressive. Literally the only thing I use my Speer reloading manual for is checking case dimensions.
Nobody wants to shoot in the stall next to the guy that reloads while watching Bay Watch reruns.
What’s a safe load-in my gun may not be safe in your gun. I’ve seen that pop up several times. I’m running a Hot load in my Remington 700 then I bought a Winchester model 70 super grade. I was checking chamber lengths they were identical. They both shoot little tiny groups at exactly same velocity safe in both rifles. RARE!!! Then my buddy bought a 270 and he wanted to try my reloads. Here’s the problem he said the bolts hard to close. He knew it was a hot 🥵 load I knew it and we should hav3 stoped there. Boom. Blew primer clean out of case lucky no one got hurt! I knew those bullets where seated long only .030 off lands of my rifles then you get a shorter chamber and it gets real bad real fast.
Can you reload steel cased ammo and is it safe
Hey Steve what’s that 45 auto load?
Wow Kaleb sounds very similar to J Burden 😚 who has an excellent channel by the way 👌🏻
On the Brownell's website. What do I search for to get hair like that? I need the exact comb, and palmade to get that hair.
Can you do a video on the Springfield Armory XDM elite line of guns like the XD-M 9 mm 45 mm 40 MM
I am confused as to what was said about compressed loads. I just loaded some 30-06 ammo that is a compressed load according to the recipe in the book. Are you saying that all compressed loads are dangerous?
I have a question about reloading data, I have 4 reloading manuals and for 9 mm for a specific bullet type and weight , there are 4 powder charges for the same powder. Do I choose the lowest to start with? Its kind of confusing when there is so much variation on powder weight. Thanks