I am not about to start felling trees at my age (73), but have had a lot of trees cut around my property. Your videos have been super interesting and informative, and give me a sense of what the professionals have been doing. Great videos!!
A good technique when cutting a big tree with a small saw is when doing the back cut to start it on one side, then back the saw out and drag it to the other side. This maps the path and ensures both ends meet the hinge point on both sides.
Unless you cutting hardwood to sell..you run the risk of pulling heart or even barber chairing..easiest way is to bore the center of your notch and punch out both sides leaving a hinge on both sides get on both sides cut back to your hinge then start going around for your back cut.leave a trigger on the back to cut..not saying you were wrong but if you cutting for cash it worth a try
I stopped buying wedges when I learned to make them out of the notches I cut out of the tree. Never worried about damaging my wedges since, or forgetting them!
Nice work, your explanations are on the money. I have two interesting pines probably close to one hundred years old that I need to fell. Interesting part, both trees come out of the ground with about six foot circumference and split into a “Y”. These trees are about seventy feet tall. I have an idea on how to proceed but I would really appreciate speaking with you. Thanks
On bigger trees I do the horizontal face cut first, or there is a risk that the weight of the wedge will squeeze your bar. And a humbolt can help clear the wedge when they get super heavy. I hate both methods, because I find them harder that way, but worth it
Good video, some people think they can just fell a tree without experience. I’ve been felling for 30 yrs, it’s not one of the most dangerous jobs for nothing.
Another good tip fir (⬅️see what I did there) us newbs is to have some kids sidewalk chalk in yer toolbox. Helps to draw out your face cuts n such when you're not a master on the buzzsaw like this gentleman.
nice technique.. I use the yellow chain for mostly cross cuts.. For plunge cuts I would like to have the green chain mounted . yellow much more Aggressive . ⚡️
You can do it either way, whichever is comfortable. Some guys are set doing their gunning cut first like you said, and other guys can set direction and depth with their sloping cut just as well. I grew up doing sloping cut first and got good at matching with my flat cut 2nd.
I have 2 quick questions 1. How many inches above face cut should the bore cut be? 2. If you can fit your bar across the entire tree but it’s still >20 dbh would you still use the bore cut rather than a conventional facecut/ backcut combo? thank you
I’m a new ‘follower’ and totally hooked. If I might ask one request, could you possibly get your microphone just a little bit closer to your mouth, as a lot of wind-noise can cut over what you’re trying your best to explain. Keep up the great lessons!
I've got two huge alders on my property that the pros won't touch because they are leaning so much, closer to horizontal than vertical. I was told that alders don't live long and eventually they will die and fall over on their own.
Sure, why not!?! I've used my tractor, my truck or even my car with a hitch. I recommend a snatch block if needed to stay out of the way. Also, Learn how to tie some arborist knots or you will bind your rope permanently. Don't ask me how I know 😂
@@Top_Branch oh ok got ya ! Whats tye deal with cutting stumps down low , iv had to do that at a property and of course need to try and get as level as possible. Trees were everywhere. So bar gets beat up with dirt and chain gets dull. Is it just do what ya gotta do and sharpen the chain as much as needed ? Seems only option is to beat up the saw It’s bothers me lol
You have some great videos! I really enjoy them. You explain them well and do a good job. Keep up the good work! What saw are you running? I’m thinking about getting a bigger saw for when I encounter larger wood. I have an echo 355t and an echo 490 I use the most. Not sure what brand or size I want but I’d like to add another saw to my land clearing/excavation business. I do some ROW clearing and I’m about to buy a larger saw to handle the bigger stuff. Open to opinions. Thanks!
When a tree is located in a campground or even an old housesite, there is a xery good chance that someone might have driven a nail into the tree to hang a sign or a fence or some other item. The attached item may be long gone, but the nail that held it will still be in the tree. All sorts of metal may have been attached over the life of the tree. And the tree will have grown over it, creating a hazard for the saw and the sawyer.
Unless You have a long bar or expert mentor - teacher - supervisor on sight with You I would not attempt to fell a BIG tree by yourself......STEEL : I fell a LOT of 3 to 4 foot wide ABH ( at breast hight ) standing dead / beetle killed so called " snags" Fir and Pine in small farm / ranch properties and these 80 to 150 + year old trees if they are within visual sight of the home almost inevitably have 22 caliber bullets, nails, wire staples etc....in them. I tell my customer if I hit metal and dull my chain it will cost them $65 for a new chain for my typical 36" bar. ...... On the bigger trees I " skin " the bark off in left and right sides were the 2 face cuts will meet so I can see them better so when I'm sawing I can see a clean skinned tree without the big deep bark blocking my bar - sight ..... If you're not use to felling bigger trees you can scribe a line - cut as you walk around the tree making a nice horizontal line ringing the entire tree as a visual aid......Because I'm not logging for timber footage I don't use the Humboldt cut instead I use a farmers cut - just like the on the video only I cut the 1 cut in the horizontal plane , then do the angle cut 2nd ( both ways work fine ) I use the 1st horizontal cut as my sighting cut #1 because it's my very very precise aiming cut and I can use the horizontal aim line on the saws side plate aiming it like a rifle ( a bit more precise than using the top air box cover sight line ) .....I put the bar in and then walk away a few feet and just eye it to make sure my bar is horizontal and or in the same plane as the stem..... I sometimes walk back and adjust up or down my bar and start cutting again now perfectly horizontal......When I start my 3rd and final felling cut as soon as my bar in full sunk into the tree a palm - tap a wedge in it just enough so it will stay put I then cut farther into my felling cut and then use my axe to start tapping my wedge or wedge's farther into the curf - cut, then repeat, cut with the saw, then tapping the wedges in farther as some of these BIG beetle kill trees are like a standing drunk man you never know how stable they are or if they are going to sit back and relax on your saw bar and want to pinch your saw bar. It's not easy to fell BIG trees in a tight yard between a house, barn etc.... If You can feel some BIG trees out in the open where there's not stress to have to make a precisely aimed fall then , if not then do NOT attempt it as an amateur, go find a seasoned timber faller and pay him to put it on the ground for You. Remember, a BIG tree on the ground is a LOT bigger than You might think, the limbs alone can be 12 inches wide and 25 feet long, bucking the stem / log is NOT easy with a short bar , expect to be there a LONG time limbing and bucking it.....Just one 12 inch wide bucked round can weigh over 100 lbs and no one wants to try and split a huge heavy round of low quality soft wood lol 🥴.... A bucket loader tractor is a God send to move the big rounds....I hope this was helpful
I think the entire point of the face cut is to shift the center of gravity in that direction? Then the back cut is made by inching towards the hinge so that the tree essentially "detaches" from the stump?
The hinge ensures that the tree can only fall forward or backward, not sideways. The face cut makes it so some of the tree's weight is over a gap, so it tends to fall that way. In this case he also had a vehicle pulling the tree toward the face cut. Usually you should use wedges to push the tree in the right direction if it's not already leaning that way.
No dobře.tohle je pěkné. akorát já to dělám s poloviční lištou.nechapu proč Američani se chválí těmito věcmi.jedno školení na týden a tak dlouhou lištu nepotřebuješ. Promiň ale už se to konečně naučte.😢
I really like your videos brother, but you got to do something with the wind noise in the microphones and hear about half of what you’re saying because the wind noise
I have noticed that most of your back cuts are either even with the apex of your face cut or slightly below. What's the reason for that? Just about every training info I've seen says to make the back cut 1.5"-2" above the back of the face cut. I've also seen some guy trolling your videos about that lol I just wonder if there's a reason or is it non-intentional
Because he isn't as good as his ego . Lots of good comments, but that's a poor demo of cutting a big tree right. He needs to ease off with the constant filming everything and concentrate on doing his job
@@michaelnolan2206 Yeah, I liked some of his videos, but after watching several and seeing him ignore solid questions and good criticism, it became obvious that he has a stronger desire to become some internet influencer than to be a man of wisdom or integrity and he's going to cause many people to get hurt or killed with his idiocy. I unsubbed awhile ago
I wouldn't be relying on a rope and a machine solely. The driver might have a heart attack in the middle of the pull, the rope might snap or the head might snap out of the tree if it's dead. Always have reduncy when felling trees near structure. Wedge's are cheap insurance, tree jacks are great tools as well, 👍💪🪓🌲🇮🇪
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
How satisfying to watch it fall! Thanks for sharing.
I am not about to start felling trees at my age (73), but have had a lot of trees cut around my property. Your videos have been super interesting and informative, and give me a sense of what the professionals have been doing. Great videos!!
I appreciate how you stop and explain what you're doing at each step. Thank you, great video, I learned a lot.
Agreed.
A good technique when cutting a big tree with a small saw is when doing the back cut to start it on one side, then back the saw out and drag it to the other side. This maps the path and ensures both ends meet the hinge point on both sides.
Unless you cutting hardwood to sell..you run the risk of pulling heart or even barber chairing..easiest way is to bore the center of your notch and punch out both sides leaving a hinge on both sides get on both sides cut back to your hinge then start going around for your back cut.leave a trigger on the back to cut..not saying you were wrong but if you cutting for cash it worth a try
You do a great job teaching. Excellent video!
Thank you for your kind words and the support! We appreciate it 👍😊🪵🌳
Спасибо
"Here is another trick "foryou""
Thats a classic!
Thanks for all your tricks🙂
This was a really helpful video. You did a nice job of explaining what to do at every step. Thanks -
Incredibly helpful to this newbie, thank you
I have some huge pine trees that need to come down on my property. These videos are extremely helpful.
Thankyou I really appreciate all of your explanations on tree felling, its very helpful.
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
TQ very much, all your videos very helping me as beginner in cutting the trees. I'm from Malaysia.
😍😍👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I stopped buying wedges when I learned to make them out of the notches I cut out of the tree. Never worried about damaging my wedges since, or forgetting them!
Top bloke doing a great job 👏 👍 👌
I have a big ash that I have to fell and only got a 18” bar , this video has helped me greatly , thank you 👍
Nice job excellent tutorial !
Nice work, your explanations are on the money. I have two interesting pines probably close to one hundred years old that I need to fell. Interesting part, both trees come out of the ground with about six foot circumference and split into a “Y”. These trees are about seventy feet tall. I have an idea on how to proceed but I would really appreciate speaking with you. Thanks
On bigger trees I do the horizontal face cut first, or there is a risk that the weight of the wedge will squeeze your bar. And a humbolt can help clear the wedge when they get super heavy. I hate both methods, because I find them harder that way, but worth it
Thank you again!
All best from Poland, Europe! :)
Excellent video! I've got a large Ponderosa to bring down and will also use my skidsteer. Thanks for sharing!!
Good video, some people think they can just fell a tree without experience. I’ve been felling for 30 yrs, it’s not one of the most dangerous jobs for nothing.
Another good tip fir (⬅️see what I did there) us newbs is to have some kids sidewalk chalk in yer toolbox. Helps to draw out your face cuts n such when you're not a master on the buzzsaw like this gentleman.
Railroad chalk is like sidewalk chalk, but much more durable. I use it to mark my firewood lengths.
Excellent
Your skill level is outstanding
Gr8 info!!!
I really like this guy and obviously what he is doing works it’s just so different to the way we do things out west it hurts me to watch
Nice work.
nice technique.. I use the
yellow chain for mostly
cross cuts.. For plunge cuts
I would like to have the
green chain mounted . yellow
much more Aggressive . ⚡️
Good video
Great videos, some kind of wind screen on you microphone would help a lot - can’t hear parts.
Yeah that’s something that we recently fixed in our newer videos 👍🎤
Thanks man
I have a tree this size and I have the Stihl MS250 with an 18” bar
What saw were you using?
Chainsaw God!!
Why do you cut the angle cut first?
Would it not be best to cut the straight cut first enabling you to set direction and depth etc.
Just curious
You can do it either way, whichever is comfortable. Some guys are set doing their gunning cut first like you said, and other guys can set direction and depth with their sloping cut just as well. I grew up doing sloping cut first and got good at matching with my flat cut 2nd.
Good 👍🏻
What kind of saw are you using, it cuts like that tree is butter!
I have 2 quick questions
1. How many inches above face cut should the bore cut be?
2. If you can fit your bar across the entire tree but it’s still >20 dbh would you still use the bore cut rather than a conventional facecut/ backcut combo?
thank you
I’m a new ‘follower’ and totally hooked.
If I might ask one request, could you possibly get your microphone just a little bit closer to your mouth, as a lot of wind-noise can cut over what you’re trying your best to explain.
Keep up the great lessons!
I've got two huge alders on my property that the pros won't touch because they are leaning so much, closer to horizontal than vertical. I was told that alders don't live long and eventually they will die and fall over on their own.
When you cut your back strap - I couldn’t tell but you’re supposed to cut it below your back cut to prevent your saw from going with the tree correct?
It’s such a narrow piece of wood that the back strap wasn’t likely to grab the saw but you definitely can do that to help make sure it won’t 👍
Correct, leave a strap at the back then pull the saw out and have a look. If all is well trip that trigger from below, 👍💪🪓🌲🇮🇪
Kayu nya bagus banget tanpa paku, kalo di tempat kami motong pohon banyak paku nya di kayu
I think I'm in love
Idk why the algorithm recommended this to me, but thank you for the knowldege, Lumberjack Luigi
Lol that's funny
can a small tractor be used instead of a skid steer?
Sure, why not!?! I've used my tractor, my truck or even my car with a hitch. I recommend a snatch block if needed to stay out of the way. Also, Learn how to tie some arborist knots or you will bind your rope permanently. Don't ask me how I know 😂
I don't see any comments on how to prevent kick backs of the chainsaw. Can someone with experience talk about that safety issue?
Puttibg steel into the trees ? What do you mean
People put nails in trees to hold signs or the trees will grow around on barbed wire fences. Things like that.
@@Top_Branch oh ok got ya ! Whats tye deal with cutting stumps down low , iv had to do that at a property and of course need to try and get as level as possible. Trees were everywhere. So bar gets beat up with dirt and chain gets dull. Is it just do what ya gotta do and sharpen the chain as much as needed ? Seems only option is to beat up the saw It’s bothers me lol
You have some great videos! I really enjoy them. You explain them well and do a good job. Keep up the good work! What saw are you running? I’m thinking about getting a bigger saw for when I encounter larger wood. I have an echo 355t and an echo 490 I use the most. Not sure what brand or size I want but I’d like to add another saw to my land clearing/excavation business. I do some ROW clearing and I’m about to buy a larger saw to handle the bigger stuff. Open to opinions. Thanks!
"steel" in wood?
Yes such as nails, wire for fencing, screws to hang signs. Things like that.
How do I contact a sawyer school? I'm in south Carolina if you can help with info. Don Ellison, South Carolina. Like the videos Thanks
Второй пропил надо делать выше первого хотя бы на 5 см.
Why is there steel in the trees?
When a tree is located in a campground or even an old housesite, there is a xery good chance that someone might have driven a nail into the tree to hang a sign or a fence or some other item. The attached item may be long gone, but the nail that held it will still be in the tree. All sorts of metal may have been attached over the life of the tree. And the tree will have grown over it, creating a hazard for the saw and the sawyer.
Unless You have a long bar or expert mentor - teacher - supervisor on sight with You I would not attempt to fell a BIG tree by yourself......STEEL : I fell a LOT of 3 to 4 foot wide ABH ( at breast hight ) standing dead / beetle killed so called " snags" Fir and Pine in small farm / ranch properties and these 80 to 150 + year old trees if they are within visual sight of the home almost inevitably have 22 caliber bullets, nails, wire staples etc....in them.
I tell my customer if I hit metal and dull my chain it will cost them $65 for a new chain for my typical 36" bar. ......
On the bigger trees I " skin " the bark off in left and right sides were the 2 face cuts will meet so I can see them better so when I'm sawing I can see a clean skinned tree without the big deep bark blocking my bar - sight ..... If you're not use to felling bigger trees you can scribe a line - cut as you walk around the tree making a nice horizontal line ringing the entire tree as a visual aid......Because I'm not logging for timber footage I don't use the Humboldt cut instead I use a farmers cut - just like the on the video only I cut the 1 cut in the horizontal plane , then do the angle cut 2nd ( both ways work fine )
I use the 1st horizontal cut as my sighting cut #1 because it's my very very precise aiming cut and I can use the horizontal aim line on the saws side plate aiming it like a rifle ( a bit more precise than using the top air box cover sight line ) .....I put the bar in and then walk away a few feet and just eye it to make sure my bar is horizontal and or in the same plane as the stem.....
I sometimes walk back and adjust up or down my bar and start cutting again now perfectly horizontal......When I start my 3rd and final felling cut as soon as my bar in full sunk into the tree a palm - tap a wedge in it just enough so it will stay put
I then cut farther into my felling cut and then use my axe to start tapping my wedge or wedge's farther into the curf - cut, then repeat, cut with the saw, then tapping the wedges in farther as some of these BIG beetle kill trees are like a standing drunk man you never know how stable they are or if they are going to sit back and relax on your saw bar and want to pinch your saw bar.
It's not easy to fell BIG trees in a tight yard between a house, barn etc....
If You can feel some BIG trees out in the open where there's not stress to have to make a precisely aimed fall then , if not then do NOT attempt it as an amateur, go find a seasoned timber faller and pay him to put it on the ground for You.
Remember, a BIG tree on the ground is a LOT bigger than You might think, the limbs alone can be 12 inches wide and 25 feet long, bucking the stem / log is NOT easy with a short bar , expect to be there a LONG time limbing and bucking it.....Just one 12 inch wide bucked round can weigh over 100 lbs and no one wants to try and split a huge heavy round of low quality soft wood lol 🥴.... A bucket loader tractor is a God send to move the big rounds....I hope this was helpful
It was helpful, thanks. Have you thought about doing a video to share what you've learned?
@@ScottWConvid19 Thank You, hummmm the UA-cam world is full of expert tree guys, I don't know if there's room for one more ☺️
@@CatDaddySteve there's always room for anyone. You have insight others don't
I'm surprised the trees don't fall backwards more often due to the back cut being so large and shifting the centre of gravity ??
I think the entire point of the face cut is to shift the center of gravity in that direction? Then the back cut is made by inching towards the hinge so that the tree essentially "detaches" from the stump?
The hinge ensures that the tree can only fall forward or backward, not sideways. The face cut makes it so some of the tree's weight is over a gap, so it tends to fall that way. In this case he also had a vehicle pulling the tree toward the face cut. Usually you should use wedges to push the tree in the right direction if it's not already leaning that way.
No dobře.tohle je pěkné. akorát já to dělám s poloviční lištou.nechapu proč Američani se chválí těmito věcmi.jedno školení na týden a tak dlouhou lištu nepotřebuješ. Promiň ale už se to konečně naučte.😢
Why throw the saw down. Lol.
I mean it's only a 2000 dollar saw right!?! I laughed with my wife about it. She would cut my balls off if I did that to her cheap electric saw! 😂🤣😂
I really like your videos brother, but you got to do something with the wind noise in the microphones and hear about half of what you’re saying because the wind noise
Next time put a sponge on the mic.
I have noticed that most of your back cuts are either even with the apex of your face cut or slightly below. What's the reason for that?
Just about every training info I've seen says to make the back cut 1.5"-2" above the back of the face cut.
I've also seen some guy trolling your videos about that lol
I just wonder if there's a reason or is it non-intentional
The back cut should be one to two inches above the level of the gob, 👍💪🪓🌲🇮🇪
Because he isn't as good as his ego . Lots of good comments, but that's a poor demo of cutting a big tree right. He needs to ease off with the constant filming everything and concentrate on doing his job
@@michaelnolan2206 Yeah, I liked some of his videos, but after watching several and seeing him ignore solid questions and good criticism, it became obvious that he has a stronger desire to become some internet influencer than to be a man of wisdom or integrity and he's going to cause many people to get hurt or killed with his idiocy. I unsubbed awhile ago
You can hear the camera man breathing the whole video
Small tree
:-)
Why did you throw down the saw when you were finished. not taking care , or dont care about your saw
Don't worry about it, it's a free country.
Cameraman needs a medical check-up. Breathing like he's about to go.
is this a joke?
???
horrible audio
Are`nt you at risk of getting sued? if someone gets killed by following your instructions...food for thought...
"OKAY...WHO FORGOT THE WEDGES AND HAMMER! NAMES!!! 😁 🪓🪓🪓
All of us 😂
@@Top_Branch
Hmmmm....Ryan again? 😁 (👍)
I wouldn't be relying on a rope and a machine solely. The driver might have a heart attack in the middle of the pull, the rope might snap or the head might snap out of the tree if it's dead. Always have reduncy when felling trees near structure. Wedge's are cheap insurance, tree jacks are great tools as well, 👍💪🪓🌲🇮🇪