If you haven't watched the first video DIY SHOP VAC VACUUM TABLE FOR CNC OR WORKSTATION! BUILD FOR LESS THAN $25 IN ABOUT 1 HOUR! Here is the link: ua-cam.com/video/Bp91BRztqc0/v-deo.html I do include some hacks in the first video that are not shown in this one and explain in more detail components and assembly. Remember if you choose to build this vacuum table remember to press down on the board when first setting the vacuum. One of my viewers recommended the Fein vacuum for use in a vacuum table as it has a separate motor for cooling. I think it is worth checking out (I am not an affiliate nor am I being sponsored by Fein). If you were the viewer who suggested this thanks and please comment so I can give you credit for your awesome tip.
Thanks. Let me know how it works for you. I really don't have any issues with things slipping without it so I don't have a good reference point (other than testing with my hand pulling on board). Since you already have some drawer liner definitely give it a try. You might also try just scuffing the inner grid squares (with some diagonal lines) using a very course grit sandpaper. I think that would work as well.
There are several conversion techniques that could be used: 1) Change the job units to inch to eliminate the conversions. 2) Use the *i+ o*m= on each dimensions to do the conversions for you 3) select the vectors , pick scale with x/y linked then *i= or *m=
One of my viewers gave me a great tip (sadly, I somehow lost the name of whoever it was, so if it was you please feel free to comment/or contact me as I want to make sure you get the credit for your great input)! The viewer said the Fein vacuum uses two motors -- one for cooling and one for the suction. Using this particular vacuum would solve the potential overheating problem (and eliminate any reason to poke a hole in the side of your coupler to give some cooling airflow to your vacuum). Amazing tip. Double thumbs up to whoever messaged me!!! I think I may be adding something new to my Christmas wish list.
appreciate the video, but this did not create anywhere close to being enough hold down using a shop vac. I did follow instructions to a T. oh well, thanks though. The thin wood as you have shown works as long as it is 1 piece, but thicker wood or more than one piece (and the thicker wood's imperfection) apparently allows too much leakage. guess i will stick with the old fashion tape and superglue.
Your comment is very useful feedback. Thanks for sharing. For sure, the surface of the wood touching the vacuum table needs to be relatively flat (significant imperfections will definitely leak off vacuum). If you find your table is leaking vacuum when holding a board, I suggest you try covering up the hole in the pool noodle air port with some duct tape (while still monitoring your vacuum to make sure it doesn't overheat). Also make sure that you constructed your vac table out of melamine (regular particle board is too porous/not sealed--It won't work well)? What was your grid size/line spacing? Increasing the grid density has a huge impact on holding power Another thing you might try is pressing down firmly on all areas of the larger board when initially setting vacuum. You may find that the vacuum grabs the board if you do. I am also curious, did you find the board that was slipping horizontally or was it lifting up?
@@Simplifycnc sorry about getting back to you so late. Thanks for the reply. I am using a generic Hart 6 hp 8 gallon shop vac, seems like it "should" have enough guts to pull it off. Anyways, and I apologize if this reply goes long, but I noticed the workpiece held very good at the hole and the path up to the slotted 10x10, so (with some of the idea generated from watching your first video on this as well) I decided to make the 10x10 with 1/4" (I believe but I did make it exactly to spec as you instructed, and yes it is melamine) and then dril out the same hole you dimensioned but in center of that 10x10. As long as you can efficiently cover up all the slots that are not covered by the workpiece, it does hold the workpiece down quite well but not so much if you leave any slots open regardless where the workpiece is open. this got me thinking some more. what if I purchase 3 (or 4 or whatever you think you may need) rubber mats (each one bigger than 10 inches as I have exactly figure out yet how big but so as to cover the entire 10x10 & then some) and cut out say a 4x4 square in middle, then maybe second one a 5x5 slot, etc... so as to not only seal the vacuum to a confined space but user can custom size the vacuum according to the size of their work piece. Know what I mean? Also, what if I made the square blocks in the 10x10 bigger than the 1" you have dimensioned in your example so that their is less channels? I would think that would create more vacuum spread out and stronger throughout the 10x10 hopefully towards the outer edge. Anyways, I look to hear your thoughts.. Thanks again. When I do get around to further tinkering with my ideas and such, I will try and give an update.
@@bradleyschroeder1882 No problem. Thanks for replying. Is the thick board getting any pull down at all or is it completely loose? I may have a couple of possible solutions for you that will solve the problem. 1) If you are not as concerned about slight difference in board height you could put a 1/4 inch rubber tube in the outmost grid groove (and then press down your board firmly with vac turned on. It should compress enough to grab the board even if it is a little warped). You can also add a couple of dowels in your melamine on the far edges outside the grid area that you can but the board against so it can't slide (they don't have to be glued in but can just be slipped in loose fit into an appropiately sized whole drilled into the melamine and then removed when not in use since they only need side to side holding power). 2) Tomorrow I am releasing a new vacuum table vid that shows a painter's tape trick to increase hold down and minimize the chance of slipping side to side. You might give it a try with a thick board (maybe even using the painters tape along all four edges of the thick board (ideally after the vac is established) or if you are getting absolutely no vac pull down, you might be able to trick the vacuum into engaging by using the tape along the edges to induce the vacuum hold down by creating a psuedo-seal). I am not sure if that would end up being more work than its worth but since you already have the vac table maybe a possibility. You will understand the details after my video. It should be out early am tomorrow. If I can be of anymore help let me know.
As a side note, don't use blue painter's to seal off your main vacuum channel inlet -- its adhesive I found is not strong enough and will eventually fail breaking the vacuum. Use plexiglass with epoxy to cover sprinkler opening & channel (or at a bare minimum clear strapping tape) -- and do have a secondary clamp on board just in case of vacuum failure. Using blue painters tape around the edges of the board/overalaping the sides of the board I still like.
If you haven't watched the first video
DIY SHOP VAC VACUUM TABLE FOR CNC OR WORKSTATION! BUILD FOR LESS THAN $25 IN ABOUT 1 HOUR!
Here is the link:
ua-cam.com/video/Bp91BRztqc0/v-deo.html
I do include some hacks in the first video that are not shown in this one and explain in more detail components and assembly.
Remember if you choose to build this vacuum table remember to press down on the board when first setting the vacuum.
One of my viewers recommended the Fein vacuum for use in a vacuum table as it has a separate motor for cooling. I think it is worth checking out (I am not an affiliate nor am I being sponsored by Fein). If you were the viewer who suggested this thanks and please comment so I can give you credit for your awesome tip.
The drawer liner tip is awesome. I have some of it and can see it working well.
Thanks. Let me know how it works for you. I really don't have any issues with things slipping without it so I don't have a good reference point (other than testing with my hand pulling on board). Since you already have some drawer liner definitely give it a try. You might also try just scuffing the inner grid squares (with some diagonal lines) using a very course grit sandpaper. I think that would work as well.
There are several conversion techniques that could be used:
1) Change the job units to inch to eliminate the conversions.
2) Use the *i+ o*m= on each dimensions to do the conversions for you
3) select the vectors , pick scale with x/y linked then *i= or *m=
Good input. Thanks for posting this for everyone.
One of my viewers gave me a great tip (sadly, I somehow lost the name of whoever it was, so if it was you please feel free to comment/or contact me as I want to make sure you get the credit for your great input)! The viewer said the Fein vacuum uses two motors -- one for cooling and one for the suction. Using this particular vacuum would solve the potential overheating problem (and eliminate any reason to poke a hole in the side of your coupler to give some cooling airflow to your vacuum). Amazing tip. Double thumbs up to whoever messaged me!!! I think I may be adding something new to my Christmas wish list.
appreciate the video, but this did not create anywhere close to being enough hold down using a shop vac. I did follow instructions to a T. oh well, thanks though.
The thin wood as you have shown works as long as it is 1 piece, but thicker wood or more than one piece (and the thicker wood's imperfection) apparently allows too much leakage.
guess i will stick with the old fashion tape and superglue.
Your comment is very useful feedback. Thanks for sharing.
For sure, the surface of the wood touching the vacuum table needs to be relatively flat (significant imperfections will definitely leak off vacuum). If you find your table is leaking vacuum when holding a board, I suggest you try covering up the hole in the pool noodle air port with some duct tape (while still monitoring your vacuum to make sure it doesn't overheat). Also make sure that you constructed your vac table out of melamine (regular particle board is too porous/not sealed--It won't work well)? What was your grid size/line spacing? Increasing the grid density has a huge impact on holding power Another thing you might try is pressing down firmly on all areas of the larger board when initially setting vacuum. You may find that the vacuum grabs the board if you do.
I am also curious, did you find the board that was slipping horizontally or was it lifting up?
@@Simplifycnc sorry about getting back to you so late. Thanks for the reply.
I am using a generic Hart 6 hp 8 gallon shop vac, seems like it "should" have enough guts to pull it off.
Anyways, and I apologize if this reply goes long, but I noticed the workpiece held very good at the hole and the path up to the slotted 10x10, so (with some of the idea generated from watching your first video on this as well) I decided to make the 10x10 with 1/4" (I believe but I did make it exactly to spec as you instructed, and yes it is melamine) and then dril out the same hole you dimensioned but in center of that 10x10.
As long as you can efficiently cover up all the slots that are not covered by the workpiece, it does hold the workpiece down quite well but not so much if you leave any slots open regardless where the workpiece is open.
this got me thinking some more. what if I purchase 3 (or 4 or whatever you think you may need) rubber mats (each one bigger than 10 inches as I have exactly figure out yet how big but so as to cover the entire 10x10 & then some) and cut out say a 4x4 square in middle, then maybe second one a 5x5 slot, etc... so as to not only seal the vacuum to a confined space but user can custom size the vacuum according to the size of their work piece. Know what I mean?
Also, what if I made the square blocks in the 10x10 bigger than the 1" you have dimensioned in your example so that their is less channels? I would think that would create more vacuum spread out and stronger throughout the 10x10 hopefully towards the outer edge.
Anyways, I look to hear your thoughts.. Thanks again. When I do get around to further tinkering with my ideas and such, I will try and give an update.
@@bradleyschroeder1882 No problem. Thanks for replying. Is the thick board getting any pull down at all or is it completely loose? I may have a couple of possible solutions for you that will solve the problem. 1) If you are not as concerned about slight difference in board height you could put a 1/4 inch rubber tube in the outmost grid groove (and then press down your board firmly with vac turned on. It should compress enough to grab the board even if it is a little warped). You can also add a couple of dowels in your melamine on the far edges outside the grid area that you can but the board against so it can't slide (they don't have to be glued in but can just be slipped in loose fit into an appropiately sized whole drilled into the melamine and then removed when not in use since they only need side to side holding power).
2) Tomorrow I am releasing a new vacuum table vid that shows a painter's tape trick to increase hold down and minimize the chance of slipping side to side. You might give it a try with a thick board (maybe even using the painters tape along all four edges of the thick board (ideally after the vac is established) or if you are getting absolutely no vac pull down, you might be able to trick the vacuum into engaging by using the tape along the edges to induce the vacuum hold down by creating a psuedo-seal). I am not sure if that would end up being more work than its worth but since you already have the vac table maybe a possibility. You will understand the details after my video. It should be out early am tomorrow. If I can be of anymore help let me know.
As a side note, don't use blue painter's to seal off your main vacuum channel inlet -- its adhesive I found is not strong enough and will eventually fail breaking the vacuum. Use plexiglass with epoxy to cover sprinkler opening & channel (or at a bare minimum clear strapping tape) -- and do have a secondary clamp on board just in case of vacuum failure. Using blue painters tape around the edges of the board/overalaping the sides of the board I still like.